2066: Forgotten Islands of the South Pacific

Day 1: Wednesday 23 December, 2020
Bluff

The excitement of exploring south to the Forgotten Islands of New Zealand built as everyone arrived at Bluff. Alex, our Expedition Leader, introduced everyone to the ship, the tour programme and the guides and then it was time to explore our floating home for the next eight days with its 'port', 'starboard', 'stern' and 'bow' - the Spirit of Enderby.

Just after 1700, we cleared Bluff Harbour, the Pilot peeled away in his launch and we were off to The Snares. Heading south we received our compulsory safety briefing for the trip from Alex and learned to 'keep one hand for the ship' as we move about and how to board Zodiacs. Motoring down the protective eastern side of Stewart Island we were in somewhat calmer waters and the life boat drill and evacuation procedures went with few hitches. Alex also gave us an introduction to Snares Islands and our programme for the following day.

Lance and Isaac, our chefs, made a great start with excellent cuisine for our evening meal - a standard, I must add, maintained throughout the voyage.

Birdlife seen today included Cape Petrels, Sooty Shearwaters, Giant Petrel, Storm Petrel, Southern Royal Albatross and a Stewart Island Shag.

Stewart Island slipped away starboard astern, as the evening darkened and we headed to the open sea with a moderate sea running. Some people, maybe for the first time, became familiar with a rocking and pitching ship while attempting to sleep, a reality of expedition cruising.

Day 2: Thursday 24 December
Snares Islands/Tini Heke

We awoke to a grey morning and found ourselves on the more sheltered eastern coastline of North East Island in The Snares group. The air felt cooler and there was the occasional light shower. Zodiac cruising began at 0815 and we were introduced to the practice of hopping in the Zodiacs in a light swell that, while about a metre high, still required we follow instructions and accepted the 'sailor's grip' of the Russian crew.

As the Zodiacs closed with The Snares coastline we were in calmer waters and see Snares Crested Penguin, White-capped Albatross, Cape Petrel, Sooty Shearwater, Broad-billed Prion, Giant Petrel, a nesting Salvin's Albatross, Tomtits and Fernbirds, several New Zealand Fur Seals and Hooker's/New Zealand Sea Lions. At one place we motored through a chasm in the cliffs emerging to see a Salvin's Albatross nesting in the tussock on the edge of the tree daisy (Olearia) forest. There were White-capped Albatross here also. On our way back to the ship we observed many rafts of Cape Petrel and porpoising Snares Crested Penguins. A dying seal afloat at sea was attended by a watchful, waiting Giant Petrel.

By 1130 we were back on board Spirit of Enderby and departed for Campbell Island. Matt's presentation entitled An Introduction to Southern Seabirds, was a wonderfully graphic guide of just about every sea bird we were likely to see on our journey.

While travelling south to Campbell Island we experienced 'Quarantine' - the careful inspection of jackets, over trousers, gaiters, boots and hats along with any equipment such as packs, walking poles and camera bags to remove seeds, dirt and anything likely to contaminate Campbell Island. We were called level by level and completed this check before every island visited.

Alex then gathered us in the lecture room for an Introduction to Campbell Island and our plan for Christmas Day ashore and later, at 1700, Norm gave a talk European Discovery and the DNA of Flax found on the Subantarctic Islands, the flax having arrived with people.

The sea remained moderate to slightly rough with guests starting to become accustomed to the movement of our ship.

Day 3: Friday 25 December - Christmas Day!
Campbell Island/Motu Ihupuku

By morning we had progressed overnight to just north of Campbell Island where, being in a further south latitude, the sun rose about 0430 in a semi-clear sky with a moderate wind of about 15 knots. It is apparent we are nearing land with wheeling albatross, Cape Petrel and several other petrel riding the wind.

By mid-morning, the smudge of cloud on the horizon announced Campbell Island. During breakfast, another culinary masterpiece by Lance and Isaac, we passed by the thronging albatross colony at North Cape, Cossack Rock, off the entrance to North East Harbour and, by early afternoon, were anchored off the Beeman Cove weather station at the head of Perseverance Harbour.

In the lecture room, Alex provided us with a thorough overview of the human and natural history of this remote and rugged island with options of a tramp up Mt Honey (569m) or a less strenuous climb on the boardwalk to Col Lyall Saddle, both offering rewards of wildlife and the megaherbs synonymous with Campbell Island.

This was followed by Courtney's Splendid Seaweed (Khristmas Kelp) in the lecture room.

Mid-afternoon we Zodiac ashore to land at Garden Cove or the Beeman Base boat ramp for our respective journeys to Mt Honey or Col Lyall. In both places we were met by male Sea Lion challenges that needed a bit of nerve and strategy just to get passed and on our way - these fellows are HARD to ignore.

The Mt Honey ascenders arrived at the mountain's summit having tramped up the Garden Cove to the Filhol-Honey Saddle Track. The views of Perseverance, South East Harbour, Monument Harbour and all the high features of the island were stunning, made all the more enjoyable by the swooping and soaring Southern Royal Albatross.

The Col Lyall walkers were gifted awesome sights with the vast landscapes of Tucker and North East Valley punctuated by dark volcanic extrusions, random dots of colour from megaherbs and the grace of soaring albatrosses. Those who ventured to the western Col ridge (200m) took in the cliff-lined amphitheatre of North West Bay and the deep iron blue of the Southern Ocean. Along the way, several were fortunate to spot a Campbell Island Snipe and many saw the ubiquitous Pipit.

The weather for both parties remained unusually pleasant until late afternoon when the occasional cloud provided a sprinkle of icy rain, a rapid drop in temperature - reminders we're in the Subantarctic.

The bar opened for celebratory drinks before dinner in which Father Christmas distributed presents and Alex also happened to be on hand to give an informal briefing about tomorrow's programme.

As expected, Lance and Isaac prepared an incredible Christmas buffet served in the Ice Culture restaurant.

Day 4: Saturday 26 December - Boxing Day
Campbell Island/Motu Ihupuku

The long-walk option departed at 0630 after a continental breakfast at 0530.

The long tramp today to Northwest Bay lands at the Tucker Cove Cape Expedition Wharf. Tucker Cove being named after the Master of Erebus in James Clarke Ross' 1840 expedition.

Emerging onto the tussock-covered tops, the Northwest Bay intrepids were rewarded with a garden of purple-hued Pleurophyllum and Anisotome, and a myriad of bright yellow Bulbinella. Here and there were nesting and resting Southern Royal Albatross. Walking into a moderate gale, they reached the summit with awe-inspiring views of the sea and cliffs of Northwest Bay. Here was a vista of emerald sea, wheeling giant petrels, brown skua, dazzlingly-white Antarctic terns, towering white limestone cliffs, jagged sea stacks and rocky islets to complete the view.

A scramble down through head-high tussocks brought the group to Capstan Cove, a great spot for lunch. The tiny bay was already crowded with locals; seals, nervous Yellow-eyed Penguins and one or two particularly assertive Hooker's/New Zealand Sea Lions.

A visit to the Northwest Bay hut provided a fragment of human intrusion in an otherwise amazingly wild landscape before moving on through more 'draco' to break out into tussock again. This was followed by a steep climb along the surviving posts of the 1984 sheep-excluding fence line and under the dominating colossus of Menhir Rock. Again the Southern Royal Albatross provided a distraction as the party walked across the slopes and back to the saddle and the welcome sight of the Spirit of Enderby at anchor far below.

A small cave with an unexpected pair of easy chairs provided a rest stop before tackling more 'draco' to reach the shore at Camp Cove with its flax covered hut site, prominent basalt dyke, lonely spruce tree and, of course, welcoming sea lion or two.

Those not opting for the long walk did a Zodiac cruise of Perseverance Harbour and visited the Hooker's/New Zealand Sea Lion colony at Davis Point where harems of female seals were ferociously guarded by the dominant males. Next was the seal colony on Shoal Point where the new-born pups crèche near the water's edge. We then viewed the 1874 Venus Cove French Transit of Venus site and Norm gave us a quick interpretation of this place including the grave of Duris, one of the 1874 expeditioners, who lies buried on the point at the entrance to Camp Cove. Our next stop was Camp Cove where the 'Loneliest Tree in the World' grows, a Sitka Spruce, and the so-called 'Lady of the Heather Hut', now well and truly masked by rampant flax. A lone White-faced Heron is seen. Here the tide and male sea lions influence where we walk. From here we go to sites in Tucker Cove including the 1877 Bencleugh try-works site and the nearby cemetery where we stop for lunch.

By mid-afternoon all were back on board and we began our journey to Enderby Island in the Auckland Island Group. As we weighed anchor, the Sea Shop opened for souvenir purchases and this was followed by another biosecurity check of our walking gear and clothing. We then joined Alex in the Lecture Room for an introduction to the Auckland Islands and an overview of our activities on Enderby Island.

At 2030 in the lecture room, Norm gave us a light-hearted view of 'The Lady of the Heather' myth (and other ghosts).

Day 5: Sunday 27 December
Enderby Island, Auckland Island group/Maungahuka

At 0630 we arrived at Enderby Island and came to anchor close in to Sandy Bay.

Wake up call at 0715 to enjoy a buffet breakfast, collect our packed lunches and then Zodiac our way ashore to Sandy Bay to be landed on the sea shelf at the western end. There is to be a long walk of about 11-kilometres that circumnavigates the island anti-clockwise and a 2-kilometre return walk on the boardwalk that runs across the centre of the island.

Looking ashore we can see the rata forest. A few flowers gave us an indication of what will come later in summer, when the whole forest will be a blaze of red. The rata's ghostly white tree trunks on the edge of the forest, gave a vivid contrast to the dark green and red foliage.

Later, when we ventured into the rata forest, we entered a new world with the undergrowth of Dracophyllum and Stilbocarpa polaris and the gnarly rata branches extending out and up. Tui, bellbirds, tomtits and Red-crowned Parakeets were spotted here. One of us had his hat lifted off his head by a swooping New Zealand Falcon, no doubt protecting a nest.

One of the lasting impressions of the day for many was the tussock grassland with nesting albatross dotted throughout and the pools hidden by tussock that in turn hid the shy Enderby Island teal and their ducklings.

Both parties observed the bulbous seed heads of the Bulbinella. There was just enough of the yellow flower left for us to picture what the expanses would have been like just a week or so earlier. The first of the flowering Anisotome latifolia with its huge head of pompom cauliflower set many cameras clicking, orchids were spotted and we noted the gentians - cushions of white and purple.

The weather was calm and the sun shining - we were truly blessed.

Our treat at the end of the day was watching and listening to the Hooker's/New Zealand Sea Lions on Sandy Bay. We were here at the busiest time in the sea lions' social calendar. In another two weeks most of the grunting and shoving will be over. The males can relax a little then to recoup from their battles and triumphs as the females get on with the every-day business of rearing their pups while carrying the next lot. Yellow-eyed Penguins returning from the sea, waddled nervously but unmolested through the melee on the beach. Those of us who had chosen to remove our gumboots for the walk discover an extensive layer of Bidibidi from our socks, bootlaces, packs, trousers up to our jackets.
Courtney used her charms to entice the male sea lions away from those queuing for the Zodiacs, so we could safely return from Sandy Bay beach to our waiting ship and a welcome cuppa.

By 2000 the calm conditions were unchanged, so we made an evening landing at the 1849 to 1852 Enderby Settlement, the site of the ill-fated Hardwicke colony, to follow the old road to an area that was once dominated by the village's main quarters. On the way we saw remnant bricks of the 1874 Dr Monkton farm house.

Day 6: Monday 28 December
Auckland Islands/Maungahuka

There is a wakeup call at 0600 and we boarded the Zodiacs to cruise Musgrave Inlet where the expert bird watchers spot Gibson's Albatross as well as, of course, the ubiquitous Southern Royal and Light Mantled Sooty.

Back on board for breakfast we were rewarded with sunlit cloud tops over the mountains either side of the vessel as it slipped up Carnley Harbour.

At 1100, Courtney shared her very informative Marine Mammals Monday in the lecture room.

On deck we noticed the 'Spirit' had taken us to the upper reaches of Carnley Harbour. Anchoring in the calm of Tagua Bay we were soon heading ashore to land and walk up to the remains of the Coastwatcher's Station and lookout from a beach not far from the wreck of Grafton.

One of us spotted a White-headed Petrel.

Assembling on the beach, we had a welcoming chorus from the Bellbirds before scrambling up the slippery track shared with sea lions it seems. We followed one after the other to what remains of Camp Two. Climbing further gave us an extensive view over the harbour, which is huge. Just a little further, and tucked away, we reached the Lookout Hut. This has been rebuilt but still has some of the old timbers on which the Coastwatchers carved their names. Half a dozen of the original pin-ups have been re-glued on the back of the door, and playing cards, observer's notes, and a Morse key litter the bench top. An old fruit tin lay on the floor. Being part of a group there for just a few minutes was great, but there was that moment when the reality of the Coastwatcher hit home. They walked up this track to sit here alone for their four hour shift, recorded their watch and then made the solitary return journey.

Back on board we departed for Bluff at 2000. We were asked to secure all loose items in our cabins and the need for this became obvious at about 0600 when we travelled through some fairly large seas with a strong wind coming from the north.

Day 7: Tuesday 29 December
At sea

The vessel moved under us with a different rhythm possibly knowing we are going home.

At 1645 Matt gave his presentation on Landbirds and Life on Rakiura, from a Resident Birder, a topic he knows well.

Alex led the final briefing taking time to thank all who made this expedition the success that it was and great rounds of applause went out to the Captain and crew of Spirit of Enderby, the Heritage Expedition staff of expedition #2066 (Matt, Julia, Courtney, Nic, Dr Rob and Norm), and our intrepid leader Alex. Alex then introduced Courtney's film presentation that covered our expedition - a masterpiece we all agreed. Each expeditioner received a copy of the presentation.

We adjourned to the dining room to enjoy another fantastic culinary masterpiece by Lance and Isaac - our farewell dinner, the last. Tomorrow it will be a 0600 breakfast and then we must prepare to leave The Spirit of Enderby.

Day 8: Wednesday 30 December
Return to Bluff

After a calm night we arrived in the port of Bluff on schedule to meet the Pilot who brought us to shore. The last wake-up call from Nic invites us to breakfast and reminds passengers about baggage. A final group photograph is taken and farewells made.

The following is the goodbye message by Alex:

"Myself, my staff and our crew would like to take this opportunity to thank you for travelling with us on this expedition. We have thoroughly enjoyed having you on board. You are a diverse, intelligent and very cheerful collective of families, couples and individuals that have melded easily into a passionate expedition team. We sincerely hope you took a lot from our expedition. We have had an incredible week, mostly in sunshine, with passing mild breezes, on some of the most isolated and intriguing islands in the world.

For most of you this was your first experience of these places, plants and animals, the opportunity to share this with you reinvigorates our own passions, and reminds us of how lucky we are to work here. Thanks to you, we do know how lucky how we are. For those of you reconnecting with the islands for a second or third time, I am sure you are as delighted and interested as we are to witness the recovery and dynamism of these unique ecosystems.

I hope that we might be able to travel with you again sometime soon, but until then, we all wish you safe, exciting and motivating adventures ahead.

Alex Fergus and the Heritage Expeditions team."

#2066 Group Photo