2064: Galapagos of the Southern Ocean

Day 1: Friday 11th December
Invercargill

After checking in at Invercargill's Ascot Park Hotel, where we would spend the night, excited expeditioners from around the country met up for a welcome dinner where Aaron gave a brief introductory and welcoming speech outlaying the adventure ahead.

© C. Rayes

Day 2: Saturday 12th December
Catlins and Port of Bluff

On Saturday morning, while staff and crew prepared the Spirit of Enderby for departure, the passengers enjoyed a pre-voyage bus tour from Invercargill to the Catlins. Highlights included a visit to the new Curio Scape café where we enjoyed some southern hospitality and excellent coffee while viewing a presentation on Curio Bay's petrified forest. The forest dates back to the Jurassic period and during our trip we spotted leaf fossils on the beach. The forest walkway was a particular delight, during which some of us managed to slip past the blue rope, bringing us closer to the ocean than we would have liked! Our driver kept us well entertained with a great range of jokes and a Southlander's sense of humour, and he insisted on taking us on a detour to see Niagara Falls!

We arrived at Bluff at 1530 hours and boarded the Spirit of Enderby to find our gear loaded and stowed in our cabins. Our first on-board event was our lifeboat drill at 1600 - a sobering experience and fortunately one that we had no need to experience again on our trip.

At 1800 hours we departed Bluff harbour, with dramatic scenes of the harbour master's pilot vessel Takitimu II putting on a great show with impressive boat speed meeting equally impressive swells.

We rocked and rolled our way across Foveaux Strait and found sufficient shelter in the lee of Stewart Island to facilitate eating dinner without our plates sliding onto our laps. We then settled in for an engaging evening, with the Southern Ocean treating us to a brisk 50 knot 'breeze' and accompanying 5-metre swells. Sadly, the expression being 'rocked to sleep' turned out to be a bit of a misnomer.

Day 3: Sunday 13th December
The Snares

After a pitching night, only a few hardy souls found their sea legs in time to avail themselves of the delicious breakfast that Lance Canning and Isaac Nijenhuis conjured up despite the conditions. By 1000 hours almost everyone was up and enjoying the calmer waters near the Snares Islands where rafts of Snare's Cape petrels, porpoising Snare's Crested Penguins and an abundance of Sooty Shearwaters greeted our arrival.

Within an hour Zodiacs were deployed and we headed out for two hours of cruising the Olearia lyallii-clad coastline with its deep blue sea and abundance of birdlife and sea caves to explore. The Snares coastline was spectacular, with beautiful kelp-beds glistening brown, yellow and orange that rose, fell, and changed shape with each successive wave. In no time we spotted Snares Fernbirds, pipits, the beautiful pure black-feathered Snares Island Tomtits, New Zealand Fur Seals, Hooker's/New Zealand Sea Lions and some of the first Buller's Albatross returning to the island for summer.

An unforgettable thrill was a close-up view of the aptly named Penguin Slide. In an incredible spectacle, hundreds of Snares Crested Penguins use this natural geological feature to commute between their nests and the sea a couple of hundred metres down the steep slope, before returning after foraging. We could but marvel at the sight of penguins torpedoing out of the sea onto the slope on incoming waves, and diving, often less elegantly, into the surging waters when they departed.

We returned for a late lunch and then had some time to contemplate all that we had seen. After eating dinner in the shelter of North East Island, we departed for Enderby Island 146 nautical miles (270km) to the south. Many of us took the opportunity to spend the evening birdwatching from the bridge.

Day 4: Monday 14th December
Enderby Island, Auckland Islands

Enderby Island came in to view shortly after dawn, and we anchored in Port Ross a short distance from shore. Immediately after breakfast, we headed out on the Zodiacs for Sandy Bay where we made our first island landing. Many of us saw our first Auckland Island Teal in the kelp-lined rocky nook where we disembarked from the Zodiacs. Ahead of us stretched the sweep of Sandy Bay with its large population of Hooker's/New Zealand Sea Lions, Skuas, gulls and an occasional shy Yellow-eyed Penguin/Hoiho.

We were presented with two options for how to spend the day. Option 1 was to walk a long circuit, heading eastward along Sandy Bay towards Pebble Point, then north towards North East Cape, before turning west towards Derry Castle Reef, and eventually south along the board walk that crosses the middle of Enderby Island back to the Sandy Bay research hut where we had started and where we had left our Muck Boots and life jackets. Option 2 allowed for a more leisurely traverse along the board walk to the northern cliffs and back. Both provided rewards aplenty.

What a wonderful day ashore. Neither strong north-westerly winds nor sea lions with no concept of good manners or social distancing diminished the thrill of exploring this wonderful most-northern island in the Auckland Island chain. So much life, so much to take in, including Southern Royal Albatrosses, Auckland Island Shags, Subantarctic Snipe, Skuas, sealions, Hoiho, Flightless Teal, dotterels and Northern Giant Petrels. The vegetation was equally as impressive. We took time to enjoy being immersed within southern rata forest and marvelled at the magnificent displays of bright yellow Bulbinella rossii flowers and patches of abundant purple-coloured gentians.

Eventually we had to drag ourselves away, board one of the Zodiacs, and return to the Spirit of Enderby. After a delicious three-course dinner, the ship repositioned to a calmer anchorage that allowed us all to get a great night's sleep.

Day 5: Tuesday 15th December
Auckland Island

At 0830 we boarded the Zodiacs and were shuttled from our new anchorage in Port Ross to shore at Hardwicke at the northern end of Auckland Island. A settlement was established here in 1849 and abandoned in 1852. Nutrient-poor soils, harsh climate and high rainfall made it hard to grow crops, and thick scrub made mustering livestock difficult. Whaling was also unproductive. Sites of interest included the graveyard and the carved Victoria Tree. The Victoria Tree was carved in 1865 by sailors off the HMCS Victoria who were looking for castaways. At the time of carving, the tree grew in a clearing near the settlement, but the remains of the tree now sit surrounded by rata forest. Lecturer and historian Norman Judd told us much about the fascinating history of this place. We were also told about rata's 'shy canopy', with branches of individual trees occupying non-overlapping space with their neighbours. Several passengers had a keen eye for small plants and showed the rest of us a variety of beautiful orchids they found growing near the track.

We climbed aboard the Zodiacs to head back to the Spirit of Enderby for lunch, then cruised southwards along the eastern side of Auckland Island. We encountered very strong winds that raced down several of the inlets and harbours we passed, especially so at the entrance to Musgrave Harbour where the wind was gusting 70 knots (130km/h). Musgrave Harbour had been our intended destination, but because of the wind we continued south to the comparative shelter of Tagua Bay, Carnley Harbour.

We enjoyed three lectures that afternoon; one by Andy Given on Subantarctic seabirds, one by Courtney Rayes on seaweed varieties, and one by Katja Riedel on the Southern Ocean and how interactions between wind, sea, ice, and variations in salt concentrations interact to create ocean currents and weather patterns. During the evening debrief, we learnt about the differences between red and yellow crown parakeets, and Gael gave a short presentation on orchids.

Day 6: Wednesday 16th December
Carnley Harbour/Musgrave Inlet, Auckland Island

We awoke to sunny skies. What a sight! While we enjoyed breakfast, Captain Aleksandr Pruss repositioned the ship to the north arm of Carnley Harbour. At 0845 we headed to shore to see the remains of the wreck of the Grafton, entertained along the way by large groups of sealions that followed us and swam circuits around the Zodiacs.

The Grafton was a 56-ton schooner that sailed from Sydney in the 1860s and was wrecked on 3 January 1864 in the north arm of Carnley Harbour, stranding five sailors here. They built a hut, which they named 'Epigwaitt', and waited a year for a ship to come to their rescue, but none came. Together they built a forge and converted wreckage from the Grafton into a sailing dinghy. Three of the men then set off in an attempt to sail the 450 kilometres to Stewart Island. They succeeded, and then proceeded to raise funds for a rescue mission to pick up the two men left behind. The rescue was successful. Those remaining two men had survived for 18 months in total on this remote Subantarctic Island. What a remarkable achievement! All that remains of the Grafton today is a small section of the framing of the wooden hull that continues to be eroded by waves.

While here, we had the opportunity to see New Zealand's smallest fern Hymenophyllum minimum, as well as a few beautiful native orchards that were in flower.

We returned briefly to the Spirit of Enderby before heading out again at 1030 to cruise around predator-free Figure of Eight Island with its lush Dracophyllum and rata forest, and numerous Bellbirds, Tui and Hooker's/New Zealand Sea Lions. We then made a landing at Erlangen Clearing where we were able to find the stumps of rata trees cut by the crew of the German cargo ship Erlangen 81 years ago. We also found a rather beautiful (although dead) larval Squat Lobster. Before leaving this area, we explored a shallow inlet by Zodiac where a sea lion obligingly posed for us.

We returned to our trusty expedition vessel for lunch, then at 1300 hours we left Carnley Harbour heading north back up along the east coast of Auckland Island, with its impressive volcanic basalt landscape, to Musgrave Harbour. The previous-day's winds had calmed, and we were able to get ashore at the head of Musgrave Inlet and walk up through the Dracophyllum and southern rata forest to the beautiful and seldom-visited Lake Hinemoa with its stunning waterfall. Despite being well inland, a sea lion was waiting to greet us! Pretty purple and white Damnamenia creeping daisy flowers adorned the lake edge and among them we spotted tiny but numerous midges.

Back at the Zodiacs, we explored Musgrave's coastline searching for Rockhopper Penguins which we eventually found in large numbers. Many photos were taken, some of which captured the penguins mid-hop between rocks. We then crossed the inlet and were introduced to an amazing sea cave that opened into a stunning natural amphitheatre with soaring multi-coloured cliffs and crystal-clear water. Here Iain and Andrea (of Stuff fame) gathered drone footage of Kosta's Zodiac-driving prowess, along with exuberant expressions of joy and delight of those near-by and on board!

That night, we sailed 160 nautical miles (296km) south to Campbell Island.

Day 7: Thursday 17th December
Campbell Island

The Southern Ocean once again served up a night of sometimes not-so-gentle rocking, but by now we had grown accustomed to this and most of us slept well. After breakfast, Murray Potter gave a lecture on 'What Stresses a Penguin?' based on his Antarctic research looking at the responses of Adelie and Emperor penguins to both natural stressors (seasonal fasting while breeding and the impact of the huge iceberg B15) and interactions with humans.

By 1130 hours we had arrived at Campbell Island and were out-and-about on the Zodiacs. We started our adventure here with a Zodiac cruise around the cliffs near Bull Rock where thousands of Campbell, Grey-headed and Light-mantled Sooty Albatross and Cape Petrels breed and fill the skies, and Campbell Island Shags sit on their precariously positioned nests on what look like impossibly narrow lofty ledges.

It was then time to head back to Spirit of Enderby for lunch.

Early afternoon, our Expedition Leader Aaron Russ gave us a briefing about Campbell Island and its wildlife, then we set off for a walk up towards Six Foot Lake and Mt Honey. Some of our group ventured higher, tackling the windy conditions to see nesting Southern Royal Albatross. The going was challenging at times, with slippery peaty undulating topography, but we were rewarded with spectacular views from the ridgetop.

That night's dinner was a choice of duck, fish or risotto, all of which were delicious and beautifully presented as was every meal during this expedition. This is a good time to acknowledge again the talent and efforts of our two chefs, Lance and Isaac, who turned out beautifully prepared meals regardless of the state of the sea. True legends!

That night was spent anchored in the calm waters of Perseverance Harbour.

Day 8: Friday 18th December
Campbell Island

This morning we split into two groups. One group made an early start and headed off for an island traverse from Garden Cove to North West Bay, while the other group explored Perseverance Harbour by Zodiac and visited historic sites with Norm, whose knowledge of the history of Campbell and the Auckland Islands is second-to-none.

Group one was treated to spectacular views across the island and out to sea, expansive megaherb fields with flowering Anisotome latifolia and Bulbinella rossii, an Elephant Seal, nesting Southern Royal Albatross, and plenty of driving rain.

Group two also saw Elephant Seals plus several Campbell Island Teal and the 'world's loneliest tree', a Sitka spruce (Picea sitchensis) that was planted here in 1907 by Lord Ranfurly, the former Governor of New Zealand. After lunch aboard Spirit of Enderby, this second group returned to shore, landed next to the partially demolished old Meteorological Service wharf and followed the board walk up through increasingly heavy rain to Col Lyall where megaherbs abound and Southern Royal Albatross breed, but where, on this occasion, few ventured to expose their cameras to the low-level cloud and driving sheets of rain.

Additional species seen this day included sea lions, pipits, Red-billed and Kelp (Black-backed) Gulls, Redpolls, Antarctic Terns, Mallard Ducks, Northern Giant Petrels, Campbell Island Shags, Campbell Island Snipe and Antipodean, Southern Royal and Light-mantled Sooty Albatross.

Everyone returned safely to the ship in the afternoon with progressively rising winds reaching 95 knots at the anchorage! After dinner, we departed Campbell Island bound for the Antipodes 395 nautical miles (730km) to the northeast.

Day 9: Saturday 19th December
At Sea

We spent today at sea, which became increasingly calm and sea fog set in. We enjoyed a lecture by Norm on the history of farming on New Zealand's Subantarctic Islands and one by Courtney on marine reserves that highlighted just how little of New Zealand's mainland coastline is protected.

Day 10: Sunday 20th December
Antipodes Islands

We arrived at 0930 hours to the most extraordinary vista: mist-shrouded Antipodes Islands emerging from the sea fog like some mythical land conjured up by Weta Workshop. The geology and landforms are astonishing, with a coastline dominated by rocky reefs and towering columnar basalt cliffs with seams of red chert and yellow green Poa litorosa tussock clinging to slopes where it could. We were quickly aboard the Zodiacs and off for a 3-hour cruise around Ringdove Bay in the southeast corner of Antipodes Island. Along this spectacular coastline with its eroded basalt cliffs we spotted New Zealand Fur Seals, Subantarctic Fur Seals, Rockhopper Penguins, Erect-crested Penguins, Antipodes Parakeets, Reischek's Parakeets, Light-mantled Sooty and Antipodean Albatross, Antarctic Terns and Fairy Prions.

Back on the ship, and immediately before lunch, a group of the more adventurous individuals were inducted into the sought-after membership of the Antipodes Swim Club, with the Captain showing how it's done with an unhesitating dive from the top of the gangway into the chilly waters.

After lunch we relocated to Anchorage Bay, in the northeast of Antipodes Island, for a second Zodiac cruise of the coastline. Here, we found flotillas of Erect-crested Penguins and Northern Giant Petrels, and experienced fleeting flyovers by fast-moving prions. As the sea became progressively rougher, waves crashed onto rocks turning the water the most astonishing iridescent light blue which looked like it was illuminated from within.

We were back on board at 1700 hours and within half an hour had departed, bound for the Bounty Islands 116 nautical miles (215km) further to the north.

Day 11: Monday 21stDecember
Bounty Islands

Aaron had predicted the night before that we would arrive at the Bounty Islands around 0600 hours so many of us were up by 0530 in anticipation of our first glimpses of these remote rocky islands. We were not disappointed. WOW! Few of us had ever seen such a concentration of seabirds before. Thousands of Salvin's Albatross flew in the congested airspace above these small, craggy, rocky islands that are devoid of vegetation. Thousands of others had formed rafts on the comparatively calm ocean in preparation for foraging trips.

The sheer abundance of life on these small, extremely isolated, inhospitable islands was mind-blowing. An estimated 98.5% of the global population of Salvin's Albatrosses breed here, along with Fulmar Prions, gulls, Erect-crested and the occasional Rockhopper Penguin, Bounty Island Shags and New Zealand Fur Seals. The intermingling of these species in such large numbers created a chaotic but breath-taking scene.

We ate breakfast early and then spent three glorious hours moving slowly around the coastline in the Zodiacs, stopping frequently to watch and attempt to take in the abundance and exuberance of life at this absolute gem of a location. It was hard to know where to look or what to focus on, so much was happening simultaneously. Sometimes photos cannot capture the full experience, and this was such an occasion. Memories of these few hours at the Bounty Islands will stay with us forever.

At 1130 we headed back to the ship and started our 440-nautica- mile-long (820km) journey back to Bluff.

After lunch we were treated to an eagerly awaited lecture by Katja on the geology of the Subantarctic Islands and, later, to a presentation by our four True Young Explorers: Leon, Liam, Brooke and Phoebe.

Day 12, Tuesday 22ndDecember
At Sea

We spent all of this day at sea. Aaron gave us a wonderful lecture about the history of Heritage Expeditions, illustrated with both historic photos and more recent ones from voyages through the Pacific, Melanesia, and the Russian Far East.

Murray gave a lecture on the 'Biodiversity Crisis' which lead into a group discussion about what we, as individuals, can do to help address this most challenging of global problems.

We were also invited to see the workings of the engine room. What a hot and noisy place that was! The glass-fronted control room that overlooks the twin engines provided some respite from the noise and heat. We learnt that a minimum of two Russian crew members had been present here at all times during our journey keeping the engines humming.

That evening, Shirley and Aaron shouted us drinks in the bar and Lance and Isaac treated us to a special final evening dinner.

Day 13: Wednesday 23rd December
Port of Bluff

As dawn broke, we approached Bluff, ate an early breakfast and then disembarked at 0830 hours. A final group photo was taken on the wharf with the bow of the Spirit of Enderby as our backdrop. What a trip. What an experience.

The landscapes and biological diversity were truly amazing, but equally wonderful was the mix of people whose company we shared on this expedition. Thanks is due to Aaron, our Expedition Leader; to Shirley, our Cruise Director; to Captain Pruss and his Russian crew, both seen, like the multitalented Julia Mishina and the staff that served us in the dining rooms and cleaned our cabins, and those unseen, working steadfastly below deck to keep the ship running smoothly; to our two talented chefs Lance and Isaac; to our five engaging, knowledgeable and personable guides and lecturers Courtney, Norm, Andy, Katja and Murray; and to the most wonderful group of 50 passengers that any of us could have hoped to have spent two weeks with in the Southern Ocean. Not everyone made it through the trip unscathed, but whether it was sea sickness or misadventure, the amazingly talented Dr Eleanor Slater was there to tend to us and help us through. Thank you!

Everyone clicked and new and enduring friendships formed. The comradery that developed contributed enormously to the joy and fun we shared on this expedition.

It was truly special that we got to share this adventure with representatives of three generations of the Russ family. Aaron and Shirley's vast experience shone through. Their positivity and competence made the daunting and difficult seem surmountable and straightforward. Sarah and Aaron, what wonderful role models you are as parents. Francesca and Anneliese, your many surveys and that whoopee cushion kept us endlessly entertained. Thanks everyone for making this a truly wonderful and unforgettable experience.

#2064 Group Photo