2061: Unseen Fiordland and Stewart Island

Day 1: Tuesday 24th November
Invercargill, Port of Bluff

Invercargill greeted us with a blue-sky day as we meet for the first time at the Ascot Park Hotel. Heritage Expeditions Cruise Director Heidi Dohn, Lecturer Lindsay Wilson and Medical officer Bryan Macleod arrived at 1400 hours to do a medical check and organise our luggage for transportation. We followed, by bus, 20 minutes later to where the Spirit of Enderby was waiting for us at the port of Bluff.

After finding our cabins and exploring the ship we attended a bevy of briefings on ship safety and landing procedures.

Formalities over, most of us went up to the top deck to watch our departure from Bluff Harbour into a calm Foveaux Strait. A quick lifeboat drill mid strait and we were anchored of Ulva Island in Paterson Inlet where we had dinner and toasted the resurrection of expedition voyaging in New Zealand since the advent of COVID-19.

Jared and Ross from 1 NEWS joined us to record the occasion for the 6pm news later that week.

Day 2: Wednesday 25th November
Ulva and Stewart Islands

After a gloriously calm night at anchor we awake to clear day and an early breakfast before heading ashore to Ulva Island to be guided by no less than Ulva and her team around the joys of one of New Zealand's most spectacular predator-free islands.

After lunch Captain Aleks relocated Spirit of Enderby to Kaipipi Bay on the northern shores of Paterson Inlet for a walk back to quirky town centre Oban as our trusty expedition vessel was to anchor just off Oban. By 1830 hours the last of our walkers had torn themselves from the social hubbub of the South Seas Hotel, and were back aboard for another delicious dinner from chefs Linzy and Jane.

Day 3: Thursday 26 November
Port Adventure

During the early hours of the morning Captain Aleks relocated the ship to Port Adventure on the eastern coast of Stewart Island. By 0845 hours we were out for a Zodiac cruise of this beautiful piece of coastline. After a foray into a southern arm of the bay and some inspired engine repairs by Lindsay and Chris, we stopped on the beach to inspect Port Adventure Hunters Hut before heading up the spectacular Heron River. With the tide timed perfectly by our Expedition Leader Nathan Russ, we were able to get as far up the river as possible with the Zodiacs thanks to some manhauling and paddling by our drivers and crew.

By 1200 hours we had lifted anchor and cruised back around the northern end of Stewart Island via Foveaux Strait. By 1800 hours we were near Solander Island and Captain Aleks took the Spirit of Enderby in for a close pass on the north-east side for a good look at this rarely visited island.

Day 4: Friday 27 November
Doubtful Sound

After a boisterous night pitching into a sharp north-westerly, the morning saw us in the blessedly calm entrance to Thompson Sound. By 0900 we were Zodiac cruising the northern edge of the sound and managed to ride a rising tide up the spectacular Pandora River.

With rain, hail and sunshine all in quick succession, we were welcomed to the wonders of Fiordland. We continued on our expedition to Neck Cove where Lindsay lead a group on the long walk up to a nearby saddle, while Chris lead a group on a more relaxed walk into the lower flanks of the hill.

Back aboard we had another delicious lunch before relocating to Blanket Bay in Doubtful Sound. Lindsay and Bryan lead a group for a coastal walk along Secretary Island while the rest of us Zodiac cruised the southern shores of the island. While we were out chef Lindzy managed to secure us a feed of crayfish from fishermen at the 'Blanket Bay Hotel' which was enjoyed as our entrée at dinner.

By 2030 hours we up anchored and departed for the short sail to Dusky Sound.

Day 5: Saturday 28th November
Dusky Sound

During the night we entered Acheron Passage and by dawn we were anchored at Cascade Cove. After an early breakfast the first helicopter group were in place on the barge heli pad ready for their excursion over Cook Channel and landing on Mt Pender at 0730. From Mt Pender there were spectacular views of Dusky Sound and some of the 360 Islands it contains.

Chris and Lindsay lead the Zodiac cruise group on an exploration of Pickersgill Harbour and the historic Astronomers Point. With everyone back aboard ship by 0945 hours Captain Aleks relocated the ship up to an anchorage off Cooper Island where we explored Sportsman's Cove by Zodiac.

With inclement weather looming we up anchored and ran down Acheron Passage in the ship, turning around Entry Island while we watch the spectacular scenery through rainsqualls that sluiced down the fiord.

By late afternoon we were anchored in the protection of Duck Cove for a well-deserved sleep.

Day 6: Sunday 29th November
Dusky Sound

By 0630 hours we had relocated to the well-named Anchor Island. We rotated through groups walking ashore with Chris and Lindsay at Luncheon Cove and Zodiac cruising the nooks and crannies of the Many Islands group which provided us great opportunities to see the New Zealand Fur Seal close up.

While we enjoyed the last lunch of our expedition, Captain Aleks relocated Spirit of Enderby to an anchorage near Pigeon Island where we rotated in groups to go ashore to visit the remains of the home of pioneering conservationist Richard Henry.

With a grand farewell dinner from Linzy and Jane under our belts, we departed Dusky Sound at 2000 hours for our journey around the infamous Puysegur Point and into Foveaux Strait.

Day 7: Monday 30th November
Port of Bluff

After a calm night sail we arrived at the port of Bluff at 0730 hours. After breakfast we departed with a lifetime of memories, experiences and a long list of new friends.