2045: In the Wake of Scott & Shackleton 8 January 2020

Day 1: Wednesday January 8th
Invercargill

We arrived in Invercargill, New Zealand’s southernmost city, from many points of the globe – China, Israel, Spain, Australia and more, as well as some locals. The restaurant was abuzz as we met new friends over dinner, all full of anticipation for our voyage south. We were introduced to some of the key expedition staff who were to make the adventure happen – Expedition Leader Samuel Blanc, Cruise Director Rachael Iveson-Brown, Medical Advisor Dr Rob Cornah and New Zealand Government representative Courtney Burn.

Day 2: Thursday January 9th
Curio Bay & Bluff
47o24.35’S, 167o37.08’E
(All positions are taken at midnight. References to miles are nautical miles, about 1.8km.)

Today was land-based, with a bus journey an hour or so east of the city to visit Curio Bay, at the edge of the famed Catlins district. We were accompanied by lecturer/guide Dan Brown. Curio Bay is known for its fossilised logs, believed to be 170 million years old, which lie on the beach. First stop for some was the new CurioScape interpretation centre. From there, there was a chance to wander along the beach, examining the impressive logs, as well as the ancient forest remnant at the end of the beach. Cute little New Zealand Fantails or piwakawaka and tuneful Tui were spotted. Others chose to wander on nearby Porpoise Bay. Despite the name, this beach is well known for its pod of the rare Hector’s dolphin. Today did not disappoint, with about five seen. The Hector’s dolphin and its close relation, the critically endangered Maui dolphin are the world’s smallest. Also seen were White- fronted Terns, Spotted Shags and oystercatchers.

After lunch at the nearby Niagara Falls café (the falls are only a couple of metres high and were clearly named by someone with a sense of humour), we returned to Invercargill and then carried on to the port town of Bluff, where we joined our home for the next month, the Akademik Shokalskiy.

The Akademik Shokalskiy was built in Finland as a research vessel, and was designed for use in Polar Regions. It is 72 metres long and takes 48 passengers. We were shown to the bridge where we went through customs formalities before finding our cabins. After a briefing, where we learned a lot about how the trip would be run and met all the expedition staff, we were able to go on deck to watch our departure from port. There were a couple of sightings of Little Penguins/korora as we left harbour. Our history lecturer/guide David pointed out the anchor chain sculpture and explained the Māori myth of the South Island/Te Wai Pounamu being a canoe/waka used to fish up the North Island/Te Ika a Maui and Stewart Island/Rakiura being the anchor stone. The blustery conditions meant that watching the pilot disembark was a spectacular show.

Drawing into the lee of Stewart Island/Rakiura, the seas were notably calmer – although by no means calm – so it was time for the important lifeboat drill. We came away hoping to never need to do this for real but satisfied that things were in place to keep us safe if the unimaginable happened.

Our chefs, Matt and Tom, provided us with an excellent dinner, and then most people had an early night. Those who hadn’t stayed overnight on a ship before were thinking about how one slept on a vessel that was constantly rolling and pitching, but most managed to do so successfully.

Day 3: Friday January 10th
The Snares/Tini Heke
50o13.05’S, 166o12.09’E

As we awoke, the ship was approaching The Snares/Tini Heke. This island group, first seen by Europeans in 1791, is free of introduced species, so, to almost remove the risk of incursions, landings are not permitted. We’re aware that Zodiac cruises at The Snares are weather dependent, so there was a mixture of surprise, delight and relief when we heard that conditions were much calmer close in than we had been experiencing, and that a cruise was on. Five Zodiacs were launched, and some of us had our first experience of getting from a ship that is moving one way onto an inflatable that is moving differently. This should get easier with practice.

Our first stop was under some cliffs, where a handful of Buller’s Albatrosses was nesting. We also saw the unfortunate sight of a group of giant petrels dismembering a penguin in the water. We eased the Zodiacs through a sea cave. On the other side, we encountered a gully that was full of the endemic Snares Crested Penguins. There were also sightings of the Snares Tomtit, and a few people saw the Snares Fernbird, thus ticking off the hat trick of birds endemic to The Snares. Around the corner, we realised that our penguin gully was only a small colony, compared to some of the other groups that we could now see. There are estimated to be 25-3000 birds living on these islands. Impressive as that number seems, the population of Sooty Shearwaters, also known as muttonbirds or titi, on the group is thought to be 5 million. We saw a few of those too. On the way back to the ship, we encountered rafts of penguins in the water.

After lunch aboard, we had a briefing about the Auckland Islands/Motu Maha and what we might get to see there in the next couple of days. We also had the important biosecurity briefing. The New Zealand Subantarctic Islands area are all protected as National Nature Reserves – in some respects, a higher level of protection than even a national park – so the rules we have to follow are important. Macquarie Island, which is Australian, also has strict requirements. As a result, the briefing was flowed by checks of everyone’s off-ship clothing and equipment.

Dinner featured our first birthday cake, for Steve. We were told to expect a rough night until about 2am, when we should enter the shelter of Port Ross.

Day 4: Saturday January 11th
Enderby Island & Hardwicke
50o32.52’S, 166o13.40’E

We awoke to a day of driving drizzle. We could see Enderby Island and some of the other nearby islands, and we could also see another ship, Le Lapérouse, anchor at Sandy Bay. When it headed south, Akademik Shokalskiy took over its anchorage. We completed the remaining biosecurity checks, and then Samuel briefed us on the plan to go ashore on Enderby Island. This remained subject to favourable conditions, and these were expected by late morning. However, that changed and David gave the first lecture, “A tale of two shipwrecks - Grafton & Invercauld”. Shortly after, the call came to prepare for a landing and we were shuttled on to Sandy Bay. The obvious first thing to see was the hordes of New Zealand Sea Lions, which were covering much of the sand as well as the occupying the grassy slope behind it. Our second group was held up at the huts while they waited for a pair of Yellow-eyed Penguins/hoiho to wander down to the sea. For much of the afternoon, we were free to wander at will in the environs of Sandy Bay. Some people visited the historic castaway depot, known as Stella hut (from the name of the ship whose crew established the depot). A gully at the eastern end of the beach was popular with hoiho watchers, while a few people ventured further east and were rewarded with seeing a pair of New Zealand Falcon/karearea, the bird on the $20 note. Spotting Auckland Island Teal was another highlight for some.

We returned to the ship around 4 p.m., the anchor was lifted and we sailed across Port Ross to Erebus Cove. There was just enough time to visit the site of the failed 19th century settlement of Hardwicke. The small graveyard, a poignant reminder of how tough life was in those days, was a popular destination. Other wandered along the old road to see the Victoria Tree, and old rata (now a large stump) with a message to castaways, carved by the crew of the ship Victoria, which was on a voyage to check for castaways.

When we made it back to the ship, it was just in time for dinner. Later, Samuel announced that we’d spend the night at anchor in Port Ross.

Day 5: Sunday January 12th
Carnley Harbour
50o57.35’S, 166o15.60’

We headed out of Port Ross, aiming for Musgrave Inlet and Carnley Harbour. It was very windy but, surprisingly, the seas weren’t that rough. Because of the wind, plans to travel up Musgrave Inlet and possibly a Zodiac cruise to a Rockhopper Penguin rookery and some sea caves were dropped. Despite that, a few people did see some Rockhoppers in the ocean. As we turned into Carnley Harbour, we faced a wall of rain. However, this soon passed over us and we were treated to spectacular views, particularly of pest-free Adams Island on our port side. A large raft of titi/Sooty Shearwaters dispersed as the ship approached. Gibson’s and Light-mantled Sooty Albatrosses put on aerial displays for us. We cruised into Tagua Bay, site of a World War II coastwatching station, and then into North Arm, where we tried to spot the Grafton wreck. Windspeeds of up to 50 m/s (about 100 knots) were noted, and so landings were not practical. The decision was made to sail back to open waters and then to spend much of the night drifting in the lee of Auckland Island/Maukahuka, allowing some particularly bad weather to pass before we headed to Macquarie Island.

Day 6 Monday January 13th
At sea to Macquarie Island
51o23.85’S, 165o6.90’E

Around 5 a.m. we set sail for Macquarie Island. Conditions were quite rough, with the ship rolling to 40o on occasions. Dan gave an informative lecture on seabird identification during the day, and then he, Agnes and Moshe ran a session in the bar to assist people who wanted to identify birds that they had photographed. Sea conditions continued unsettled throughout the day.

Day 7: Tuesday January 14th
At sea
53o56.85’S, 160o8.20’E

We had a full day at sea, with reasonable conditions, improving further as the day went on. Dan gave a very informative lecture on the tricks of expedition photography. This was followed by a film on the Australian National Antarctic Research Expedition (now the Australian Antarctic Division). In the afternoon, we had the opportunity to indulge in a little retail therapy at the first opening of the sea shop.

Day 8: Wednesday January 15th
Macquarie Island
54o34.05’S, 158o56.00’E

When breakfast was called, we found that we were at anchor at Buckles Bay, home to the Australian base on Macquarie Island (or Macca, as the residents call it). A Zodiac was dispatched to collect the rangers, and then we had a briefing as the Akademik Shokalskiy headed south for Sandy Bay. Landing conditions were excellent. For the majority who were first time visitors, the wildlife was an almost-overwhelming experience – one that will surely be an enduring memory. We immersed ourselves in a multi-sensory experience, with noise and smell as much part of it as the visual aspects. Royal and King Penguins and elephant seals were in abundance. Huge colonies of the two penguin species bookended our wandering, with the two species intermingling on the beach between. Most of seals lolled about indolently, but occasionally a couple would put on a show of testosterone-fuelled aggression towards each other. A bonus for some was the occasional glimpse of a King Penguin chick’s head appearing from the pouch above its parent’s feet. As always where penguins are in large numbers, there were plenty of optimistic Brown Skuas and giant petrels about too.

After a wonderful four hours ashore, we returned to the ship and ate lunch as we sailed back to Buckles Bay. Then it was time to visit the base. Our knowledgeable hosts shared information about the base’s history and its functions, and we indulged in the legendary Macca scones. Wildlife surrounds the base, which is situated on a narrow isthmus sat to the north of the island. As well as plenty more King Penguins and elephant seals, and the inevitable Brown Skuas and giant petrels, we saw our first Gentoo Penguins, Macquarie Island Shags and a NZ Subantarctic Fur Seal. On the way back to the ship, we took advantage of calm sea conditions to spend some time observing a colony of Rockhopper Penguins from the Zodiacs. Another fur seal was spotted, which may have been an Antarctic one.

After dinner in the bay, a couple of Orcas were spotted before the fog closed in. Later, as we sailed back to Sandy Bay, there were more Orca sightings.

Day 9: Thursday January 16th
Lusitania Bay, Macquarie Island
55o57.25’S, 160o33.10’E

A lucky few saw more Orcas from the bridge late in the evening. Thursday dawned murky and wet, and reports from Buckle Bay were that we’d had the best of the weather there. We made our way south to Lusitania Bay, the site of an enormous King Penguin rookery (estimated at about 400,000 birds). We spent the morning at anchor here. The rookery appeared and reappeared through the drizzle and fog, but the one constant was a parade of King Penguins (with the occasional Royal for variety) swimming around the ship. After lunch, the Zodiacs were launched and the brave or foolhardy (opinions varied as to which was the best adjective) set out to cruise past the bay. We were able to clearly see the huge digesters in the middle of the colony. Ironically, the King Penguins targeted here were poor producers of oil, with the Royal Penguins being far better. The vast number of penguins now surrounding the digesters is testament to man’s folly and nature’s resilience.

Upon our return to the ship, once we’d dried out we watched an excellent documentary on the project to eliminate rats, mice and rabbits from the island. While we watched, the ship got under way. Next stop, Antarctica!!

In the evening, a couple of whales were spotted passing right in front of the bow. The best guess, based on a fleeting glimpse is that these were one of the rare beaked whale species.

Day 10: Friday January 17th
At sea
58o38.85’S, 165o57.40’E

Sea and weather conditions were remarkably benign overnight, and they continued that way throughout the day. This has enabled us to make good progress southward. Unfortunately, a downside of the calm conditions is that we have seen very little seabird activity. And, as we’re passing through a relatively unproductive area of the ocean, the chances of cetacean sightings are low. None were seen all day.

On the other hand, when travelling conditions are calm and there’s not much to see outside, it’s a good opportunity to catch up on lectures. The expedition team presented a recap about Macquarie Island, and also noted that today was the anniversary of Scott’s party reaching the Pole in 1912.

Later, Moshe explained all about tectonic plate drift and the processes that underlie it. It was fascinating to realise that at the time that Scott was struggling to the Pole, plate tectonics was a new theory that was struggling to gain acceptance. Just before the bar opened, Agnes gave us a detailed and engaging rundown on all the penguin species and the key differences between them.

A few indicators of progress towards Antarctica occurred today. In the afternoon, cold weather jackets were distributed. Late in the evening, a small crowd gathered on the bridge to see what may well be our last sunset for some time (as we’re approaching the zone of the midnight sun). And at about 2 a.m. we crossed 60o South, which means that we are now in the area that is within the jurisdiction of the Antarctic Treaty. It’s also where the rules of the International Association of Antarctic Tourism Operators apply.

Day 11: Saturday January 18th
At sea
63o48.85’S, 170o26.80’E

Once again, we were blessed with fair seas and winds, so continued to make good progress in a south-easterly direction towards the ice edge north-east of Cape Adare. And, again, wildlife sightings have been limited, although there was a flurry of excitement when another beaked whale was seen briefly. A few people took advantage of the lovely conditions to do a spot of sunbathing on the foredeck.

A full program of lectures kept us busy. We started with Samuel giving us an introduction to the Ross Sea region, our playground for the next week or so. We came away with an understanding of where we might land, the relevance of those sites and how our itinerary might pan out. Samuel also introduced us to the International Association of Antarctic Tourism Operators (which Heritage Expeditions was a founding member of), and explained its work. Next up, David told us about the Norwegian explorer Roald Amundsen, leader of the first expedition to reach the South Pole. It was clear that preparation, planning and training over many years were critical factors in his success. After lunch, Agnes gave us a general overview of Antarctica – a big topic, but one that was well traversed in the time available.

Our final trip of the day to level 2 was to hear Samuel talk about ice charts and ice conditions. We now understand something of the annual patterns and trends, and can see why the ship is heading in the direction that it is, towards a gap in the ice that should be the key to entering the Ross Sea itself. We also came away with an appreciation of how landing sites can be regarded as open or closed and how that is constantly changing.

Useful websites for ice conditions include Polarview https://www.polarview.aq, NASA https://worldview.earthdata.nasa.gov and University of Bremen https://seaice.uni-bremen.de/sea-ice-concentration/

Day 12: Sunday January 19th
At sea
68o3.65’S, 174o3.60’E

We were awoken at 6 a.m. with the news that the first iceberg had been spotted at latitude 64o54.153’S, longitude 171o8.51’E. Not everyone leapt out of bed, but those who did were rewarded with the sight of a couple of icebergs, one a good-sized tabular berg with a couple of caves at the waterline. The winner of the iceberg competition was Peter Drury, who predicted that it would be seen at 6.22am.

Around the middle of the morning, Samuel called us from the bridge to say that we would soon be approaching another berg. Most passengers watched from the bridge as we cruised past it, with many also braving the biting wind, at least briefly, to get photographs. Later, in the afternoon, another one was seen appearing through the mist, about eight kilometres to starboard.

The rough conditions weren’t really conducive to enjoyable lectures, so the program was limited to a couple of episodes of Sir David Attenborough’s excellent documentary series Frozen Planet. Other than that, it was a fairly quiet day throughout the ship. Little was seen in the way of wildlife, although when the seas and wind settled a little later on, there were some good opportunities for photographing albatrosses.

Another important milestone was achieved at about 5 p.m. when we crossed the Antarctic Circle (66o33’S). Our latitude at that point was 172o33.841’E. The crossing of the Circle is a matter of some reverence for Polar travellers and is usually formally marked in some way. Given the conditions, it was decided to defer our celebration until a more comfortable time.

Late in the evening, observers on the bridge saw a white line on the horizon. Checking it out with binoculars revealed a large patch of pack ice. When the Greenstone TV crew turned on their big camera, which is mounted on the monkey deck, we could make out individual floes, and see the pack heaving in the swell.

Around 3 a.m. the ship slowed as it pushed its way through the first patch of pack ice. A few hardy souls responded to the graunching sound of steel on ice and popped up to the bridge to observe.

Day 13: Monday January 20th
Cape Adare
71o17.95’S, 170o10.60’E

The first thing many of us saw when looking out our portholes or windows in the morning was a sprinkling of ice chunks in the water. The next thing was that the sea was as calm as the proverbial millpond. It was soon clear that we were in for a magical day. Shortly after breakfast, we entered a band of pack ice, and most people were either in the bridge or on deck.

Although it was initially quite cold on deck, by mid-morning it had warmed up noticeably. The wildlife highlight of the morning was getting repeated sightings of Minke Whales at quite close range. However, photographing them proved to be a frustrating endeavour for many people. A Leopard Seal was seen lolling on a floe, and it seemed quite disinterested in our passing.

At 11 a.m., we were all called to assemble on the foredeck. It was time for the postponed ceremony to mark the crossing of the Antarctic Circle. Mugs of mulled wine were served. Then Dan read a short speech describing the honour of crossing the Circle by sea and the need for all who do to pledge to work to protect Antarctica, its wildlife and its history. We then all recited a pledge, after which we were all stamped with the Mark of the Penguin.

We moved out of the ice and into open sea for a while, then ran into another band of ice. This time, the wildlife highlight was Adelie Penguins passing by on ice floes. Many reacted to our presence by jumping into the water. More Minke Whales were seen from time to time, as well as several Crabeater Seals in ones or twos, resting on floes.

Back into open sea, we had a growing awareness of the Antarctic continent. Initially, just peaks were visible (at a distance of about 90 miles), then glaciers and details of the landscape. Next, we could see the full extent of the Cape Adare Peninsula, with our target – the precipitous cliffs of Cape Adare itself – at the northern end. But there were still things to see at sea, with a dozen or so whales passing just ahead of us. It’s possible that these were, again, a type of beaked whale. There was also a large array of tabular icebergs, with some most likely grounded in shallow waters.

Eventually, we rounded the low-lying plateau at the base of the cliffs and could see the extent of the Adelie Penguin colony. We could also see the huts erected in 1899 by Carstens Borchgrevink’s British Antarctic Expedition – the only place where the first buildings ever built on a continent are still standing. The remains of Scott’s Northern Party’s hut stands nearby.

After scoping out the sea and ice conditions, Samuel announced a landing at close to midnight. Although the number of penguins, particularly chicks, meant that we had to limit ourselves to the immediate area that we landed in (which also meant that we couldn’t visit the huts), the consensus was that it was a magical experience. Penguins constantly moved from land to water; there were chicks being fed; other penguins porpoised around the bay and dozens crammed onto ice floes. Being in the land of Midnight Sun, the sun didn’t set, but as it dipped near to the horizon we were treated to wonderful light. For some, just the experience of setting foot on Antarctica for the first time was a special moment.

Finally, we had to return to the Zodiacs and to the ship. Most people tried to cram in a few hours sleep before the next busy day, but some were on the bridge as the ship crunched its way through another band of ice.

Day 14: Tuesday January 21st
Possession Island
73o14.55’S, 172o11.6’0E

The breakfast tables were abuzz with talk of the wonderful (and long) day we’d had yesterday, and full of hope for more as we steamed south along the Adare Peninsula. The seas were dead calm and a vibrant blue colour, the skies clear and the views of the mountains and glaciers outstanding.

Our landing for today was Possession Island, the site of another Adelie Penguin colony. It’s a much smaller colony at Cape Adare, and the population density is much less, which meant we were able to move about a lot more. A constant conveyor belt of penguins was marching down the side of a small stream then waddling across the rocky beach before diving into the sea. The diving point proved to be a very popular spot for photographers. The Possession Islands were named by Captain James Clark Ross, Royal Navy, in commemoration of the planting of the British flag here on January 12, 1841. Possession Island is the northernmost and largest of the Possession Islands and just over 3.2 kilometres long. Some ice movement towards the ship signaled that it was time to get on the Zodiacs and return to the ship for lunch.

The afternoon was spent heading south towards Terra Nova Bay. It was an afternoon for relaxing, soaking up the views of the Transantarctic Mountains. Whale sightings, particularly Minkes, became almost routine. Later in the afternoon, an Emperor Penguin was spotted on an ice floe, and the ship was turned around so we could get a better look. Some people got a good view of it.

Day 15: Wednesday January 22nd
Terra Nova Bay
74o14.10’S, 164o12.70’E

Overnight, we had had to move further out to sea to go around some ice. Again, the seas were calm, and those who were familiar with the region were saying they couldn’t believe our run of good conditions.

As we had some distance to run before the next likely disembarkation options, at Terra Nova Bay, we started the day with a fascinating lecture by Samuel about a subject that he clearly has a great passion for – Sir James Clark Ross and his voyages. Later we had a recap about our landings at Cape Adare and the Possession Islands. It was emphasised just how rare it was to get conditions that enabled landings at both sites.

In the afternoon, Samuel briefed us about the intended landing at Inexpressible Island and David gave the historical context of the privations suffered there by Scott’s Northern Party. Then Dan gave an informative lecture on cetacean identification and what cetaceans we might see at different points in our journey.

When we arrived at Terra Nova Bay, we were again reminded that expedition cruising means seizing the moment and putting aside mundane matters like regular meal times. Conditions were favourable for a landing on Inexpressible Island so we went for it. The Zodiacs were able to butt up against an icy platform, allowing passengers to get ashore without getting in the water. From there, we walked across rocky terrain, past a few Adelie Penguins and Weddell Seals on the fast ice in the bay and up to the site of the Northern Party ice cave. Six men spent the winter of 1912 living in an ice cave and eating seal meat when the Terra Nova was unable to pick them up. From there, most people strolled up and over the summit of Harrowfield Hill. This was a special moment for some of the staff, as the hill was recently named after Dr David Harrowfield, who has been the history lecturer/guide on many Heritage Expeditions voyages. Both the views and the rock formations here were outstanding.

The last people were back on board shortly before 10 p.m., when it was time for a quick dinner before preparing for the next landing. This was at the unoccupied German Gondwana Station. Once again, we were able to disembark the Zodiacs straight onto dry land. This landing was an opportunity to wander at will and soak up the surrounding grandeur. The volcanic cone of Mt Melbourne dominated the view to the north, while those who walked up to the plateau overlooking the nearby Korean Base name were rewarded with stunning view across the surface of the Campbell Glacier. South Polar Skuas were the predominant wildlife, with some people getting a stern warning from the birds if they inadvertently approached a nest. A solitary Adelie Penguin looked lost as it wandered around in front of the base. The sun had dipped to its nadir, well above the horizon, and was beginning to ascend again as the last Zodiac headed back to Akademik Shokalskiy at around 3:30 a.m.

Day 16: Thursday January 23rd
Mario Zuchelli Station
75o14.05’S, 167o21.90’E

After the late night, most people appreciated having a sleep-in, with brunch scheduled for 11 a.m. The ship then moved a few kilometres south and anchored off the Italian base, Mario Zuchelli Station. There was much excitement amongst many of the female passengers (of all ages) about the prospect of visiting a place largely populated by Italian men. We landed on the wharf, using a ladder that had been specially made for our visit and that of the Spirit of Enderby earlier the same day. This was our third landing on the continent, a situation so rare on these trips that Samuel and Agnes, with years of expedition experience, were doing it for the first time.

We spent an enjoyable time ashore, with our hosts explaining the base’s history and its work. We were able to try the coffee that is often claimed to be the best on the continent, as well as buying souvenirs. While we were ashore, in a nice touch of reciprocation, a number of the base staff were hosted aboard the Akademik Shokalskiy.

Leaving Terra Nova Bay, we headed out past Cape Washington to go around a large area of ice at the south of the bay. After passing through a band of ice, we turned south, but returned to the ice for a while when Orcas were spotted.

Day 17: Friday January 24th
Cape Evans & Hut Point
77o47.55’S, 166o18.90’E

When breakfast was called, we were steaming towards Cape Bird at the northern tip of Ross Island, with Mt Erebus visible behind. David gave a lecture on The Southern Journeys of Scott and Shackleton, which concluded with a discussion on their legacies. Samuel briefed us on the intended landings at Cape Royds and Cape Evans.

As conditions at Cape Royds weren’t particularly favourable, we sailed on to Cape Evans and landed close to the hut. Many people found the visit to the hut, built by Scott’s Terra Nova expedition and later used by Shackleton’s Ross Sea Party, to be a profound event, as we soaked up the atmosphere of the lovingly-conserved building and artefacts. The moody lighting kept the photographers smiling and their shutters busy, and they also appreciated seeing Herbert Ponting’s darkroom and contemplating the conditions that he had to work in. The thought of around two dozen men living in such a small space was commented on by many, while the dead Emperor Penguin lying on the table next to Captain Scott’s bed was a source of fascination for some. Outside, some people relished the opportunity to roam freely beyond the vicinity of the hut, while others spent time observing Weddell Seals. The Ross Sea Party memorial cross on Windvane Hill was also a popular destination. We were ashore for about four hours, enabling an unhurried enjoyment of both the outstanding landscape and the sense of history.

Back on board, we received confirmation that we were able to use the icebreaker-cut channel leading to the American McMurdo Station later that night. We cruised the ice edge in glorious conditions, spotting plenty of Orcas on the prowl and taking in the grand vistas of the Transantarctic Mountains and its glaciers and of Ross Island. As we headed south down the channel, we passed the Spirit of Enderby heading north, with an exchange of ships’ horn blasts shattering the silence. We dropped anchor near Hut Point and landed the Zodiacs just in front of Captain Scott’s hut from the Discovery expedition. The location so close to the American and New Zealand bases and the lack of understanding in earlier decades of its historic importance means that this hut is not as rich in artefacts as the ones further north on Ross Island, and the fact that it wasn’t intended as accommodation means that it lacks the detail of daily domestic activities that the others have. But, despite that, it was a worthwhile visit, and those who had been there before were struck by the difference the conservation work by the New Zealand Antarctic Heritage Trust had achieved. Outside, once again, the option of just wandering around and absorbing our surroundings was enjoyed. Although we were unable to visit McMurdo Station, being able to observe it at close range was another highlight for some.

The last Zodiac arrived back at the ship after 3 a.m., but our wonderful day meant that most people were still buzzing with excitement.

Day 18: Saturday January 25th
Cape Royds & sea ice
77o27.65’S, 165o42.80’E

Even though we’d had a really late night, breakfast was at 8 a.m. and it was clear that our busy schedule was going ahead at full steam. The day started with a landing at Cape Royds. As Back Door Bay was choked with ice, the Zodiacs went ashore on Black Sand Beach, which meant a slightly longer walk with more climbing. Everyone accomplished the walk through the lunar-like landscape with apparent ease, and soon we were looking down over Shackleton's Nimrod expedition hut. This hut is much smaller than the one at Cape Evans, and many commented that it had a cosier and friendlier feel. It’s certainly lighter, which probably contributes to that feeling. It’s always interesting what small details interest people, and here many were taken by the large quantity of salt that was taken on the expedition, and by the tinned meals that probably wouldn’t appeal to modern expeditioners’ tastes. For the Shackleton fans in our number, visiting the hut will surely be a highlight of an expedition that has already been jam-packed with highlight moments (with more to come, no doubt).

Outside, the cloud had cleared from Mt Erebus and its plume of steam stood out clearly against the blue sky.

On return to the ship, the next announced activity was a nap. Many people took up the suggestion, although if it had been a landing there’s no doubt that it would have been greeted with the same enthusiasm. As people snoozed, we headed back to the ice edge. At 4 p.m. Samuel suggested that the bridge was the place to be, and so most people spent some time looking for Orcas, with frequent success. There was also an occasional Emperor Penguin on a floe to be seen, something that many people had been waiting for.

As we approached dinner time, we heard the now-familiar sound of the ship coming up against ice. We were told that we weren’t trying to pass through heavy ice, but rather we were parking. It wasn’t explained why. After dinner, we were told that dessert would be served on the ice, and that the Spirit of Enderby would join us. As we lined up to embark on the Zodiacs, we could see our sister ship also “parked”, about 300 metres away, with staff setting up for dessert. At that moment, an Emperor Penguin marched up to them, had a look at proceedings, then wandered off. A little later, as the groups from the two ships mingled and sipped bubbly, the penguin returned. It was completely unfazed by our presence, and seemed happy to pose for countless photos for the duration of our stay. Heritage Expeditions co-owner and Expedition Leader on Spirit of Enderby Nathan Russ gave a short speech highlighting both the uniqueness of this meeting of the two ships and the 200th anniversary of the probable first sighting of the Antarctic Continent by the Russian explorer Fabian Gottlieb von Bellingshausen. After dessert, we were thrilled to see a pair of Orcas appear just metres beyond the parked Zodiacs. The combination of spending time out on the ice, plus the penguin and the whales and the beautiful weather and views made for an evening that will be fondly remembered for many years to come. But eventually the expedition leaders saw that conditions were changing, and both ships horns sounded, signalling the need to return. Most of us walked back to the Akademik Shokalskiy, with a short Zodiac shuttle from near the bow to the gangway. A magical day had, sadly, drawn to a close.

Day 19: Sunday January 26th
Ross Ice Shelf & Franklin Island
76o09.55’S, 168o19.30’E

Overnight, we’d sailed around the northern side of Ross Island to the Ross Ice Shelf. While we could only see a small portion of its 800 kilometre ice cliffs, it was impossible not to be impressed with its grandeur. There was infinite variation in the patterns where the cliffs, up to 50 metres high, had fractured to form icebergs. While fog, at times, limited the view, it did add to the atmosphere of the place.

Then the call was made that there were Orcas on display. We were treated to an incredible sight of a large number of these magnificent cetaceans, which we observed for maybe a couple of hours. At times, it seemed some of them were within touching distance of the ship. There was a cold katabatic wind flowing off the ice shelf, with the wind chill estimated at minus 15 degrees, so it was a challenge to remain on deck to take photos. There seemed to be a constant flow of people leaving the bridge for another series of snaps before retreating inside to warm up.

Finally, it was time to turn the ship to the north. We put the Ross Island chapter of our voyage behind us and headed towards Franklin Island. It had been a satisfying couple of days here, with three hut landings, the ice landing and countless hours watching wildlife and absorbing the stunning beauty of the area. Many people took the opportunity to have a quiet afternoon, with sleep catch-ups a priority for many.

By dinner time, we’d arrived off Franklin Island, about 50 miles north of Ross Island. Conditions were good, so we took the opportunity to land at the Adelie Penguin colony. Several people commented that the less-crowded site made this the best of our Adelie colony visits, as it was easier to move freely amongst the birds. Although the repeated late night landings were playing havoc on our sleep patterns, most agreed that the advantage of more subtle light conditions for photography made that a small price to pay.

The last Zodiac returned to the ship at midnight, the anchor was raised and we set sail for the Terra Nova Bay area.

Day 20: Monday January 27th
At sea
71o53.85’S, 171o12.80’E

With a day largely at sea, we returned to the lecture theatre. The excellent documentary “Solid Water, Liquid Rock” described the geological processes around Mt Erebus. Later, David told us about the heroic deeds and tragic events of Shackleton’s Ross Sea Party.

After lunch, we skirted the edge of the ice, and were treated to a good look at groups of Crabeater Seals swimming together. Next, a large group of Minke Whales kept us entertained for quite a while. Eventually, we had to leave this all behind and move back to open water. The expedition team gave us a recap of our experiences on and around Ross Island.

While there was a plan to look at another midnight landing, this time at Foyn Island, the second largest of the Possession Islands, ice conditions meant that this wasn’t possible, so we slept on. This was the first time since Carnley Harbour, 15 days ago, that a proposed landing couldn’t eventuate. That’s a remarkable record, given the expected uncertainty that is part and parcel of expedition travel.

Day 21: Tuesday January 28th
Cape Adare
69o32.35’S, 170o44.20’E

Samuel woke us before breakfast to tell us that we were at Cape Adare and that it was simply too nice to be in bed and not on deck. The ship was pushing through ice, and the glaciers in Robertson Bay were on display. Unfortunately, ice on the beach meant that a landing wasn’t feasible. In any event, the penguin numbers were still too high for us to be able to reach the huts, which would have been the main reason for a second landing at the cape. So a decision was made to take advantage of the uncommon lack of ice in Robertson Bay and to cruise to its head. A Zodiac went ashore at Duke of York Island to scope a possible landing, but the decision was made not to go ahead.

Returning to Cape Adare, we heard the anchor going down, and then Samuel announced an “unusual landing” – not on land, but in the sea. Yes, it was time for the infamous Polar Plunge. Over 20 people braved not just the 0o water, but also a significant wind chill factor, a strong current, and a swell that made getting back onto the gangway a challenge. They were rewarded (or thawed) with a sauna.

Then it was time to sail north, perhaps leaving the Antarctic continent behind us.

Day 22: Wednesday January 29th
At sea
65o21.65’S, 170o59.80’E

The initial plan at this stage was to head towards the rarely-visited Balleny Islands, with the prospect of seeing some of the larger whales, particularly Blue and Humpback Whales, and even possibly landing on the islands. But in the morning, Samuel advised that an assessment of new ice charts and weather forecasts required a change of plans. The ice charts showed that it was unlikely that we’d be able to reach the islands, while the weather forecast was showing a large storm system that it would be prudent to avoid. This would necessitate being in the haven of Perseverance Harbour, Campbell Island/Motu Ihupuku by February 2nd. So the ship turned and we headed for Campbell Island/Motu Ihupuku.

A busy day was planned for us. It started with an interesting and informative lecture by Dan on bird physiology. Next up was Agnes, with a great lecture on icebergs. After lunch, the Sea Shop was open for the last chance to do some shopping. David then showed some videos of the New Zealand Antarctic Heritage Trust’s work restoring the historic huts on Ross Island. As well, he gave a lecture on Sir Edmund Hillary, the Commonwealth Transantarctic Expedition and the origin of Scott Base.

The videos were the perfect introduction for the day’s biggest event: an auction to support the New Zealand Antarctic Heritage Trust. Lots on offer included several prints of well-known photographs by Herbert Ponting from the Terra Nova expedition, a bottle of Shackleton whisky, and a copy of Jane Usher’s outstanding book on the huts, Still Life. Bidding for some items was particularly spirited, and the successful bidders will go home with mementos of the voyage that they can cherish. All up, we raised $1359.50 for the trust.

Day 23: Thursday January 30th
At sea
61o22.70’S, 168o11.40’E

With another full day at sea, it was another day where those not napping could take in lectures or films. Samuel’s lecture “Emperors and Men” reflected his passion for and long association with Emperor Penguins. We then saw a documentary about the French glaciologist Claude Lorius, one of the pioneers of our understanding of climate change. Lorius was one of the first to recognise that ice cores contained historic samples of the atmosphere that could be analysed to determine its composition over time. After lunch, the first episode of “The Last Place on Earth”, a dramatization of the race between Amundsen and Scott to be first to the South Pole, was screened. Later, Agnes followed up her iceberg presentation with another excellent one on sea ice.

Day 24: Friday January 31st
At sea
57o03.45’S, 169o44.30’E

With this being our third consecutive day at sea, and with fairly rough conditions, it seemed as if a sort of hibernation took place. The course we were taking sought to strike a balance between the need to make good progress towards Campbell Island/Motu Ihupuku and the comfort of all aboard. At meal times, the course was altered to give a more stable platform for an hour or so. The only activities were two more episodes of “The Last Place on Earth”. With our increasing knowledge of the subject matter, these spurred some interesting discussions afterwards.

The bar/library was a popular refuge, where an enormous jigsaw puzzle helped a few people while away some time, with others reading, sorting photos or just drinking tea. Others sought some quiet time in their bunks, reading, watching movies or just snoozing. This wasn’t enough for a couple of individuals, who apparently took to dancing on the monkey deck – no doubt an exhilarating experience in the conditions. At the end of the day, it was pleasing to see a full turnout for dinner.

Day 25: Saturday February 1st
At sea
52o35.30’S, 169o16.80’E

After a particularly rough night at sea, it was a weary looking bunch of travellers who greeted a new month. We had continued to make good progress towards Campbell Island, but still had to spend another full day at sea to get there. Inevitably, the day was going to be a repeat of the previous one. There were two more episodes of “The Last Place on Earth” to watch, and no lectures. The news that we’d arrive in Perseverance Harbour around midnight and therefore be able to spend much of the night at anchor in calm waters was greeted with much enthusiasm.

Day 26: Sunday February 2nd
Campbell Island
52o32.95’S, 169o09.70’E

It was a happy group who turned out for breakfast, refreshed after a good night’s sleep in a bunk that didn’t move, and excited about the prospect of getting out and about on Campbell Island/Motu Ihupuku. For some people, having Campbell Island/Motu Ihupuku on the itinerary was a factor in choosing this voyage. For anyone who’d visited previously, their enthusiasm for a return was palpable, and this enthusiasm was spreading to those who were first-time visitors.

We started the morning program with Samuel giving an introduction to Campbell Island/Motu Ihupuku, followed by a briefing on the proposed activities for the next couple of days. As the high winds were expected to abate somewhat in the afternoon, the plan was to remain aboard the Akademik Shokalskiy until after lunch. There were some administrative tasks to attend to which occupied the time, with the return of our polar jackets and a thorough biosecurity check of our equipment.

Unfortunately, the weather didn’t play to the rules, and so the afternoon’s off-ship activities were cancelled. Instead, Moshe gave us an enthusiastic presentation about megaherbs, the large flowering plants common on the subantarctic islands. During the lecture, the captain decided that the strong winds, which were causing the ship to drag anchor, meant that a return to open water outside Perseverance Harbour was the best option. Later, we watched videos on the Campbell Island rat eradication and the rediscovery and reintroduction of the flightless Campbell Island Teal to the island.

Day 27: Monday February 3rd
Campbell Island
52o29.45’S, 169o16.00’E

We were relieved to awake to very light winds, even if cloud was hanging around the tops of the hills. It was clear that we’d get off the ship and get to explore the island that we’d travelled so far to see.

There were two options for the day’s activities. One option was a full day’s walk from the old weather station at Beeman Cove, across the island to Northwest Bay, and returning to Camp Cove for a Zodiac pickup. The alternative was to do a Zodiac cruise around Perseverance Harbour, followed by a shorter walk up the boardwalk to Col Lyall Saddle. In the end, 16 people took the longer option and 27 took the shorter one, with the Greenstone film crew off doing their own thing on the Col Lyall Saddle track.

The long walk group was first away, under the guidance of Rachael and Rob. We were lucky with the weather, only encountering brief periods of cloud or rain. The descent to Northwest Bay was an entertaining experience for some, with much hilarity as we descended what was effectively a muddy tunnel beneath the vegetation. A Yellow-eyed Penguin/hoiho wandering past was a lunchtime treat at the bay. From there, we climbed steeply to the tops, where there was an abundance of albatrosses on nests, gamming or wheeling around above us. A few lucky individuals spotted a Campbell Island Snipe and chick scurry through the tussocks. Finally, we descended to our Zodiac rendezvous.

The Zodiac cruise got underway shortly after the long walk group left. Bird sightings along the shore included Campbell Island Shags, Campbell Island Tomtit, Antarctic Terns and, importantly, a couple of Campbell Island Teals, which stayed visible for enough time to sate the photographers’ interest. A weaner elephant seal wriggled its way into the water as we watched the teals. We stopped at Tucker Cove, where the old coal range from the farm homestead stands forlornly. As with the long walk group, a lucky few saw a Campbell Island Snipe with a chick, while the rest of us had to be content with observing the dozen or more New Zealand Sea Lions occupying a grassy terrace. Next stop was the world’s most isolated tree, the Sitka Spruce located in Camp Cove. This was also a good place to observe the regular rise and fall of the water level, as it caused a bore to race up the small stream that leads to the tree. We could also make use of this phenomenon to refloat the Zodiacs when it was time to return to the ship for lunch.

After lunch, we headed up the boardwalk to Col Lyall Saddle. Although there was a cold wind and the low cloud severely limited views, there were plenty of Southern Royal Albatrosses on display, as well as fields of megaherbs, notably Pleurophyllum speciosum and Anisotome latifolia. The patient and cold-tolerant were rewarded with plenty of gamming and aerial ballet from the albatrosses. A few keen veterans of the long walk took advantage of a late last Zodiac to make a dash up the lower reaches of the boardwalk.

Day 28: Tuesday February 4th
At sea
48o40.20’S, 168o46.60’E

We’d left Perseverance Harbour around midnight and started to make our way back towards mainland New Zealand. Sadly, the adventure was starting to draw towards a close. But there was a full program of on-ship activities to look forward to, as well as the ongoing efforts to spot interesting wildlife from the bridge – usually followed by a dash out into the weather for a photo. The day’s program started with the penultimate episode of “The Last Place on Earth”, and then Samuel told us all about the 15 months he spent as a biologist at Dumont d’Urville Station, including how a chance encounter with Spirit of Enderby led to his work in expedition cruising. In the afternoon, Dan gave a wide-ranging lecture on cetaceans, and this was followed by Courtney explaining fisheries management practices in New Zealand and the Ross Sea. Later, the Greenstone film guys acknowledged the co-operation they’d received from passengers, crew and staff with a round of drinks for all in the bar. We’re all looking forward to seeing their finished program.

Day 29: Wednesday February 5th
At anchor, Stewart Island
46o56.95’S, 168o13.20’E

We arrived back in the vicinity of mainland New Zealand with time to spare, so a quiet day was in order (for the passengers, at least – the staff still looked busy). The final episode of “The Last Place on Earth” was screened, with the dedicated group who’d lasted the distance enjoying a final debrief on it. Next up, Dan gave an enticing presentation on all the other places that Heritage Expeditions travels to. While that was happening, we heard the anchor go down. We were to remain here, off Stewart Island/Rakiura’s east coast until it was time for our early morning entry to the Port of Bluff. After his presentation, Dan showed a selection of photos taken by some of our fellow passengers. Plenty of shots had the ‘wow’ factor, while some had obviously been shown for their humour.

Late in the afternoon, we attended Samuel’s final recap of the voyage. Our three True Young Explorer scholarship winners each said a few words about their experiences, and then there was the premier screening of the official expedition video/slide show. We adjourned to the bar, where we were treated to some musical entertainment – some composed aboard the vessel – by Carol. Vivian, Rongrong, Xiaojuan and Jeff. Then Nixie and Aimee kept the laughs going with their awards ceremony. After that, it was time for our final dinner aboard – if possible, more sumptuous than those over the preceding month. Dinner concluded with a cheeseboard in the bar, which provided an ideal opportunity for reminiscence and a final catch up with our fellow voyagers.

Day 30: Thursday February 6th (Waitangi Day)
Port of Bluff
46o35’S 168o20'E

As we breakfasted, the ship tied up in the Port of Bluff. Our amazing voyage had reached an end. As we disembarked, we reflected on the experiences of the past month, shared with friends old and new. We knew that we’d gathered memories that would live on for ever, and that Antarctica and the Subantarctic Islands would always occupy a special place in each of our hearts.

Haere ra ora hāpai (Farewell, and travel safely).