1961: Birding Down Under 13 November 2019

Day 1: 13 November
Invercargill

An intrepid group of travellers gathered in Invercargill this afternoon at the Ascot Park Hotel, in anticipation of the adventures that lay ahead on the high seas. This evening we gathered for dinner and introductions to some of the expedition team and were given the first of many expedition briefings and an outline for the programme for tomorrow.

Day 2: 14 November
Departure from Bluff

The Heritage team greeted guests this afternoon on the first day of our voyage Birding Down Under with sunny skies. Guests made their way up and through the ship after boarding to pass customs, and then the team was introduced downstairs in the lecture room. We were all invited to unpack, but store items securely because we were looking forwards to a bumpy crossing to The Snares. A fabulous first dinner was served in the lee of Stewart Island before the ship headed south in the evening towards our first Subantarctic destination.

ENS - An excited group of birders and wildlife enthusiasts jumped on the bus and headed to Curio Bay. En route we recorded Paradise Shelduck, Australasian Magpie and Australasian Swamphen, Variable Oystercatcher and a lone Royal Spoonbill. While several people visited the interpretive centre at Curioscape others walked through the forested areas or over to Porpoise Bay to look for Dolphins. In the forest Tui, New Zealand Bellbird, New Zealand Fantail and several introduced species such as Blackbird, European Goldfinch and Dunnock were noted and at Porpoise Bay, six of the rare Hector’s Dolphin were seen playing in the surf. The best bird of the day was an unexpected New Zealand Falcon which flew past at lunchtime giving most of the group a reasonable flight view. From here we returned to our hotel in Invercargill picked up the final guests and then departed to board our ship Spirit of Enderby in Bluff Harbour.

While boarding the ship we saw several of the endemic Spotted Shag and a lone Foveaux Shag was roosting on the jetty opposite the boat… a nice find! Soon afterwards we set sail and we started our bird list in earnest with several species including White-chinned Petrel, Southern Royal and White-capped Albatross, Cape Petrels, Fairy Prions, Sooty Shearwaters following a fishing boat just off Stewart Island.

Day 3: 15 November
The Snares

We all awoke to the sound of Judd’s voice this morning at first light, though many of us hadn’t slept soundly the night before. It will take a few days to learn how to sleep at sea, and how to position yourself in bed so you don’t roll out at night. The wind was blowing fiercely, and though we tried to find some protection behind the island, a narrow passage was funneling wind into the bay and wind speeds of up to 50 kts were observed. Nevertheless, we set out to make a few passes along the islands with the ship amid the gale and rain and clouds to watch for endemic penguins and albatross that we saw amid the spume. After several passes, the ship set course south for Auckland Island and we enjoyed day of birdwatching from the ship and a series of lectures from the guides.

ENS - Arrival at The Snares and departure to Auckland Island. Unfortunately, the weather had changed with very strong gusts of wind cancelling out our plan of visiting North East Island by Zodiac. The next best thing we could do was to sail along the coastline as close as possible and it paid off with several small group of Snares Crested Penguins seen hunting in the sea. We were very pleased with seeing this endemic, also we had excellent looks at Buller’s and Salvin’s Albatross which breed here too.

From The Snares we motored to the Auckland Islands and arrival time was expected at midnight. En route we saw many pelagic species including really nice views of Northern Royal and Campbell Albatross and many great views of Mottled Petrel, several Broad-billed Prion and Black-bellied Storm-petrel. Later in the day we found a juvenile Light-mantled Sooty Albatross which was much appreciated.

Day 4: 16 November
Enderby Island, Auckland Islands

The ship had entered sheltered water last night around 10pm, so many of us woke up early but refreshed to a sunny day on Enderby Island. Pack lunches were grabbed on the way off the ship for a full day of exploring the island. Upon landing, we were greeted by a number of New Zealand Sea Lions, an endangered breed that weren’t so keen on having us walk through their beach territories. We passed unscathed and proceeded to split up into groups of bird watchers and long hikers. A small number of people went out for the long walk, keeping the ocean on the left, to walk roughly 10 km around Enderby, for a full day of wildlife and bushwhacking. The other groups got on well, spotting all the birds they came for and enjoying a nice relaxing, rare sunny day in the Subantarctics.

ENS - Today was a big day for birds with a visit to Enderby Islands in the north of the Auckland Islands. We divided into three groups, 2 short walking groups and one group circum-navigating the whole island. We had a glorious day despite having to run the gauntlet several times when avoiding being bitten by the many male New Zealand Fur Sea Lions fighting over their patch of beach. Sites visited included Sandy Bay and the boardwalk leading to the Northern Cliffs area. We enjoyed fabulous looks at our main targets including Subantarctic Snipe in the tussock grass, the flightless Auckland Island Teal, the endangered Yellow-eyed Penguin walking to and from the sea and close looks at New Zealand Falcon which dive-bombed us on several occasions (possibly telling us that it had chicks on a nest nearby). Other more numerous species included the Auckland Island subspecies of Tomtit, New Zealand Bellbird, Tui and Banded Plover. We also enjoyed great close looks at a few pairs of the beautiful Light-mantled Sooty Albatross and distant views of nesting Southern Royal Albatross. For those that did the long walk, they saw all the main targets as well as a small colony of Antarctic Terns.

Day 5: 17 November
Musgrave Inlet & Carnley Harbour, Auckland Islands

Another pre sun rise for all of us this morning as the ship dropped anchor in Musgrave Inlet. Out on deck we could hear the Rockhopper Penguins calling as we admired a spectacular sunrise behind large cumulous clouds on the horizon. We could even see some of the highest peaks on Auckland Island for a while. Our Zodiac cruise before breakfast took us past cliffs of columnar basalt that had eroded away at the base and formed a habitat for a colony of Rockhopper Penguins. We were able to get good views of them as we cruised along in calm waters as they came down for breakfast. Zipping across the bay to finish off the cruise we poked into several deep caves, probably formed by eroded lava tubes, one large cave, one medium cave with no roof and one small cave that was completely dark inside. As the rumbling of stomachs harmonized with the rumble of the engines, we bumped along back to the ship for breakfast. During breakfast we sailed south into Carnley Harbour, a bay containing loads of history, geologic wonders, and several species of albatross to name a few highlights. There were two options, a difficult bushwhack up to an albatross colony, or a Zodiac cruise to catch them from the sea, everyone seemed to have made the right choice as the dining room was pleasantly buzzing during our taco lunch. We set sail for Macquarie Island soon after and enjoyed a lecture and a little time to rest and digest pictures.

ENS - We had a tremendous day with Zodiac trips around the Musgrave Inlet first stopping to enjoy Eastern Rockhopper Penguins. Other good views were had of Auckland Island Shag and Auckland Island Teal. After lunch we headed to Carnley Harbour where some folks walked to the White-capped Albatross colony and others toured in Zodiacs around the edge of the headlands taking in the above albatross colony from below. In the afternoon we started our journey to Macquarie Island. Birds seen en route included hundreds of Antarctic Prions, Light-mantled, Southern Royal and Gibson’s Wandering Albatross and White-headed Petrel. In the evening we recorded three Grey-headed Albatross, the first for our trip. All in all, a great day.

Day 6: 18 November
At sea towards Macquarie Island

A day at sea towards Macquarie Island, or Macca as the local inhabitants call it. A chance to rest and spend time reflecting on the sights from before and look forward to a new and different southern island. There was a lecture on photography, highlighting some of the technical aspects of photography and then the artistic side with the aim of improving the photographs we all bring home and want to share with our families. The sea shop was opened for a spell, and hats and scarves and postcards and books were all on offer. In the afternoon a briefing and introduction to Macquarie Island gave us insight on what Mawson referred to as a jewel in the Southern Ocean and prepared us for our landings to come. We continued to roll on south, through the Southern Ocean towards our southernmost landings.

ENS - A travel day today from Auckland Island to Macquarie in Australian waters where we came across two groups of Sperm Whales offering brilliant looks. Seabirds today included Light-mantled, Southern Royal, Campbell, White-capped, Gibson’s Wandering and Grey-headed Albatross, Cape Petrel, Black-bellied Storm-petrel, Antarctic Prion and Northern Giant Petrels.

Day 7: 19 November
Macquarie Island

By the very early morning the ship had stopped rolling, or at least this author stopped sliding back and forth in his bed, and we knew we had reached the lee of Macca. The weather looked grim, with heavy rain falling sideways as we sailed north past one of three sites we can make excursions to, towards the Australian Antarctic Base at the north end of the island. Once we reached our anchorage though, the wind eased (slightly) and we were able to get off for a relatively smooth landing. We were led around by a team from the base that were happy to see anyone new for the first time since August, past Southern Elephant Seals sneezing, giant petrels wheeling, and a lone Chinstrap Penguin. Wildlife and people lived in close proximity, with Gentoo Penguins nesting next door to people and elephant seals littered between buildings. A gate kept animals out of the main station area where we were invited in for tea and delicious biscuits and cream. We took onboard a team of rangers after watching a weather balloon get launched and sailed south to Sandy Bay to attempt a landing at the wildlife-filled beach. On arrival, we found wonderful conditions, with sunshine at times, no surf breaking on the beach. All got off to wander amongst the nesting King Penguins and Royal Penguins and wove their way between elephant seal weaners. Many took the opportunity to spend the full four hours ashore and walked from the King Penguin colony all through the animals up the boardwalk, through the field of megaherbs to the royal colony up the valley, before coming back aboard for a late dinner and warming cup of tea.

ENS - A big day for all passengers with a visit to Macquarie Island. Approaching the beach on Zodiacs at Buckles Bay, we could already see several penguins in the grassy areas nearby. No sooner had we walked on shore and we were enjoying fabulous views of two Gentoo Penguins. Here we met several rangers at the ANARE Station. Further along the trail the ranger told us of a surprise visitor which came in the form of a vagrant Chinstrap Penguin, a bird that normally lives in Antarctica. A few hundred meters further along the trail we set eyes on the penguin standing on the beach… a great surprise and very welcome addition to our birding list. Many large elephant seals kept us entertained while they battled for supremacy and many large-eyed pups were photographed. After a warm cup of coffee with scones and jam, we walked further along the trail visiting a colony of breeding Gentoo Penguin and by now we had seen several of the endemic Macquarie Island Shags as well as several stunning white-morph Southern Giant and a few Northern Giant Petrels. Later in the afternoon we visited Sandy Bay to enjoy the hundreds of King Penguins at a breeding colony, many cute and fluffy brown chicks. Our last new bird of the day came in the form of the punky hairdo Royal Penguin, several hundred of which birds were seen at close range. To top it off a few hunting Orca were seen offshore. Other species recorded today included Light-mantled and Black-browed Albatross, Common Redpoll, Song Thrush, European Starling and the elegant Antarctic Terns. A happy group of wildlife enthusiasts returned to the ship for dinner and bed after this amazing action-packed day. Wow!

Day 8: 20 November
Macquarie Island

The day started early, as the forecast called for a degradation in weather conditions throughout the day. We had full Zodiacs setting off from the ship soon after 7 am, and we cruised along the shore of Lusitania Bay, site of a large King Penguin colony. Several thousand penguins called out as we came as close as permitted to shore and watched as hundreds of King Penguins commuted to and from the beach, and large elephant seals lolled in the waves amid fronds of algae. As predicted, the wind started to pick up and we ended the cruise in a dense sleet. We were back onboard, sailing towards the southern end of the island and the largest Royal Penguin colony when we spotted Orca again, and as we sailed back north in the lee of the island we enjoyed lunch while 65 knot gusts blew through the ship and cooled it down a few degrees. After lunch we left the protection of the island and set course for our next destination, Campbell Island, this time with the wind and sea at our back.

ENS - Another big day awaited us with a visit to Lusitania Bay. Here we saw thousands of King Penguins tightly packed on the beach and up the surrounding slopes. Several groups surrounded our Zodiacs or were seen torpedoing through the waters… a marvellous sight.

In the afternoon we set sail for Campbell Island first enjoying great looks at a group of hunting Orca steaming up ahead. The afternoon journey was enlivened by Snowy Wandering, Southern Royal and Grey-headed Albatross, several Soft-plumaged Petrels, Antarctic Prions, Southern Fulmar, Short-tailed Shearwater, South Polar and Long-tailed Skua and at least two Blue Petrels. Another awesome day!

Day 9: 21 November
At sea to Campbell Island

On our way away from Macquarie Island, our heads full of King Penguins, wind, and elephant seals, we sailed north east towards Campbell Island, New Zealand’s southernmost island. We had a solid program scheduled, with lectures on the origins of the weather we are experiencing and an introduction to Campbell Island. In the evening, we decided to do a bit of chumming, dumping a smelly mix overboard to attract seabirds. We fell asleep to a gentle rocking and a slight fishy odour.

ENS - A travel day at sea to Campbell Island. Birds today included Southern Royal and Gibson’s Wandering, Black-browed, Campbell, White-capped, Light-mantled Sooty and Grey-headed Albatross, Mottled, Soft-plumaged and White-headed Petrels, Antarctic Prion, the odd Fulmar Prion, Black-bellied and Grey-backed Storm-petrels and Arctic Tern. Late at night we reached Campbell Island.

Day 10: 22 November
Campbell Island

We pulled into Campbell Island during the night, and the rocking ship slowed to a stop inside Perseverance Harbour. An early breakfast was offered, and the long walkers got off first. They were off on a day long, 12 km walk out across the island to Northwest Bay. Meanwhile, the rest finished breakfast and got ready for a good long Zodiac cruise in among the inner harbours. Teal were seen, shags, and a sea lion eating a young fur seal was observed. While the long walkers were walking with their heads in the clouds, the rest of the ship went back for lunch and a warm cup of tea before going out to walk up the boardwalk in search of Campbell Island Snipe and nesting Royal Albatross. There was unusually a lot going on when we landed, with navy helicopters and personnel dropping off supplies. Fortunately the snipes weren’t scared off and everyone got a chance to see these rare endemic birds. The long walkers returned after battling through lots of bush, and several went up the boardwalk for a few more chances to see nesting albatross. By six thirty, everyone was back onboard and the bar was buzzing with energy with guests sharing their experiences for the day. Soon after dinner started we set sail for the north and as soon as we left the protection of the harbour we felt the rolling of the ship that wouldn’t abate until midday the next day.

ENS - We started our exploration of Campbell Island with a Zodiac tour around Perseverance Harbour. We first released a Common Diving Petrel that Niall had found in the Zodiac and we were very happy when it flew away strongly. Here we found the very rare and flightless Campbell Island Teal, recovering now due to the eradication of introduced predators. We also found small numbers of nesting Light-mantled Sooty Albatross and small groups of roosting Campbell Island Shags. A walk around the lower tussock grasslands failed to produce any snipe although we did have the afternoon to find this species. Mammals viewed this morning included New Zealand (Hooker’s) Sealion and a couple of New Zealand Fur Seals. After lunch we headed up the boardwalk to a higher elevation first walking through dense scrub where several New Zealand Pipits were seen. We scanned hard for snipe but only heard a few birds calling although they were well off the track. Higher up we came across our first nesting Southern Royal Albatross, a few birds nesting close to the boardwalk, a highlight for the entire group of this magnificent seabird at its breeding grounds. Shortly afterwards Judd located a Campbell Island Snipe near the track and on approaching a second bird was found. Fantastic views were had by everyone on multiple occasions as it weaved its way through the vegetation and paused several times in the open. We capped of the day with a fine Leopard Seal.

Day 11: 23 November
At sea to Antipodes Islands

On our way north again, we were rolling about with swell abeam, but by now most of us have our sea legs anyway. A full lecture program on today, starting with an introduction to the world of lichen, and followed by a comprehensive account of Leopard Seals. After yet another tasty lunch prepared by the chefs, the ship seemed to go to sleep for a short while, until the sea shop opened. The event everyone was waiting for though was an introduction and clarification of prion identification held by Erik, Doug, and Niall. The day was fine, sunny and warm and many enjoyed a relatively calm sea to get some fresh air out on deck.

ENS - Today we were at sea all day heading to the Antipodes Islands with small numbers of Antarctic and Fairy Prions constantly around the ship. Albatrosses kept us busy with Grey-headed, Salvin’s, Campbell Island and White-capped. Apart from a few Southern Royal Albatross we were delighted with an adult female Antipodean Wandering Albatross, our first for the trip. The odd Mottled and White-headed Petrels were noted through the day along with small numbers of White-chinned and many Cape Petrels. Later in the day we were surprised by two more Antipodean Wandering Albatross.

Day 12: 24 November
Antipodes Islands

Most were up early this morning on approach to the Antipodes, we pulled into the lee of the island as the sky got lighter and prions darted around the ship. The conditions looked blustery but manageable and we launched all the Zodiacs for a cruise along the sheltered western cliffs. Once we were all out, parakeets were spotted, and Zodiac drivers managed to point out the small green birds amongst indistinguishable boulders while keeping the boats steady in 35 kt gusts and lively sea conditions. We were then off to spot Erect-crested Penguins amid the boulders, and then turned a corner to find a sheltered cove where we could get good views of the penguins close to the Zodiacs. Fur seals were spotted frolicking in the waves and while everyone got a good soak, there were smiles all around as we turned back towards the ship for a warm coffee. During the sea time in the afternoon, we were entertained with lectures, and caught up on photo editing and sorting and sleeping.

ENS - Early this morning, despite the swell, we took the Zodiacs on a run along the Antipodes Islands. Unfortunately, the weather was not accommodating with rain, sleet and a gusty wind. We did however have a successful morning with excellent looks at Erect-crested Penguins our 6th penguin species for the tour! Although we struggled in the rain, we had fairly decent views from the Zodiacs of Antipodean and Reisheck’s Parakeets, perched and in flight. While watching the parakeets we could see several prions investigating their burrows around the cliffs. This points to the Fulmar Prion that lives in this area all year and is active near the nests during the day. Later back on the ship we enjoyed great views of 2-3 Antipodean Wandering Albatross here at their breeding grounds and another new bird was a Grey Petrel of which we had three sightings. Just about everybody caught up with Wilson’s Storm-petrel several birds of which were seen regularly near the vessel. Later we headed towards Bounty Island with a steady stream of Soft-plumaged, White-headed, Mottled and White-chinned Petrels, Black-bellied Storm-petrel, Gibson’s Wandering, Salvin’s and Black-browed Albatross.

Day 13: 25 November
Bounty Islands

The ship was swaying heavily this morning during breakfast, and it didn’t look good for the planned Zodiac cruise along and amid the Bounty Islands. Nevertheless, we came in to have a look. The conditions would have been frightful in the Zodiacs, so we cruised along the islands in a gale onboard the ship, while endemic albatross, shags, and penguins zoomed by the ship. The sheer amount of wildlife both on the islands and in the air around was overwhelming and a true highlight of the trip. In the afternoon a series of presentations were held for education, and then in the evening we did a bit of chumming to see what kind of birds would come in close. We got some great views of the birds coming in for pieces of fish heads thrown overboard as the sun set and we sailed on towards the Chatham Islands.

ENS - Early this morning we motored along the coast of the Bounty Islands. Due to high seas and strong winds we did not take Zodiacs out to get closer. As it was all the birds came out to greet us. It was a wonderful spectacle with thousands of Salvin’s Albatross, Erect-crested Penguins and Bounty Island Shags at their only nesting site. We also head several good views of Fulmar Prions here in good numbers. Small numbers of New Zealand Fur Seals were also noted. Later in the morning we chummed for seabirds just outside the reserve zone. Salvin’s Albatross were plentiful with small numbers of White-chinned and Cape Petrels.

The afternoon turned up a few new species for our list in the form of Grey-faced Petrels and White-faced Storm-petrels. On the mammal front we had Sperm Whales. There were also Mottled, White-headed and Soft-plumaged Petrels and Antipodean Wandering Albatross.

Day 14: 26 November
Pyramid Rock and Rangatira Island

Today was a planned sea day, but due to our fast progress north we were able to squeeze in a bit extra for the day. Breakfast was served at a respectable hour for the first time in several days, and soon after, Pyramid Rock loomed out of the water ahead of us across from off the larger Pitt Island. We made several passes around in calm conditions, so calm that many of the albatross were sitting on the water instead of flying, but nevertheless, we got great views of the only breeding site of the Chatham Albatross. After making a few spins around, we headed off to Rangatira Island for a Zodiac cruise and a chance to see several endemic Chatham species. We got out on the boats in beautiful weather and cruised along the shore over crystal clear blue water with fur seals all around. Afterwards, we set a course for Chatham Island and planned to spend several hours off the southern coast chumming looking for the Magenta Petrel. Back and forth we went, with many Royal Albatrosses following, and then near dusk, a single Magenta Petrel was spotted and could be seen for about a minute before disappearing at sea. This was fortunate, and a highlight for many, and no wonder, there are perhaps as few as 150-200 birds left in the world.

ENS - We approached the Chatham Islands early this morning with Pitt Island and Pyramid Rock seen on the horizon. Birds picked up here and we recorded White-faced Storm petrels, Gray-faced Petrels, Cook’s Petrel, Norther Royal Albatross (which breed here) and best of all our first Chatham Albatross! Getting closer to the steep-sided Pyramid Rock we could see hundreds of Chatham Albatross wheeling around the higher areas where nests could be seen. There were also large rafts on the water. This is the only place on the planet where this species breed! The biggest bird of the morning was a distant Magenta Petrel, unfortunately only seen by a handful of the group.

We also undertook a Zodiac cruise around South East Island in glorious sunshine. First stopping to look at close Chatham and Buller’s Albatross, the latter of the northern sub-species (sometimes split of as Pacific Albatross). Here we came across several Shore Plovers flying, calling and running around on the wave platforms. It was great to see this very rare bird with a world population of only 200 birds and the bulk staying here on these remote islands. We also saw Red-crowned Parakeets, Tui and the endemic Pitt Island Shag. A few Chatham Shags were also recorded later in the day. In the late afternoon we sailed to the south of the mainland Chatham, opposite the Tuku Reserve. Here we chummed from the back of the ship and quickly pulled in several Buller’s (Pacific) Albatross, Sooty Shearwaters, Cape Petrels and up to ten Northern Royal Albatross here at their breeding sites.

Day 15: 27 November
Chatham Island

There was a beautiful sunrise today over the town of Waitangi on Chatham Island as we woke early for a full day exploring the island. We arrived off the ship in windy conditions and were met by several buses that transported all of us to Tuku Reserve on the north east side of Chatham Island. It is a small piece of private land donated by farmers for conservation and makes up one of the few small patches of native forest vegetation on an island with a severely altered vegetation type. The native vegetation has helped species like the Chatham Island Pigeon make a strong comeback on the island and on arrival at the reserve; we observed one sitting in the tree above the bus. We took off on a few different walks through the reserve and enjoyed stretching our legs, before meeting back to catch rides back to town and spend a few hours there. Several kept company in the hotel and bar, and many walked down the beach to catch the Chatham Island Oystercatcher. The ship had repositioned due to strong winds, and we rode out at the end of the day by bus for a bumpy ride back to the ship.

ENS - Today we went ashore on the main Chatham Islands and landed at Waitangi. Here buses were waiting to collect us and take us to the private Tuku Reserve (Weka and Swamp Harrier were seen en route) where we were introduced to the owners Bruce and Liz Tanui. They gave us an insight into the reserve, the birds and conservation methods while Dave Boyle, the Magenta Petrel Conservation Manager gave us an introduction regarding the status and ongoing conservation methods to save this species.

A walk round the Tuku Reserve gave us excellent looks at the Chatham Warbler, pigeon, New Zealand Fantail, Tui and Red-crowned Parakeets and Weka. Afterwards we headed back to Waitangi to search for Chatham Oystercatcher. We were very pleased to find a pair only 2km up the beach and everyone enjoyed views of this endangered species.

Day 16: 28 November
Big and Little Mangere Islands

On a sunny day with a comfortably light breeze blowing, we set out for our last Zodiac cruise of the ship around two islands that are famous in the birding world, Big and Little Mangere. Our expectations for sighting the Black Robin for which the islands are known for where slim, but nevertheless we had an agenda to find a few of the last endemic birds for the trip. We set off first on a bumpy ride out to Rabbit Island and found ourselves a small number of the last endemic shags of the trip, then cruised across the strait to Big Mangere. There was some surf on the rocks, but the Zodiac drivers were able to come in close and put people in good positions to look under trees on the dark forest floor for the small black birds. Everyone’s eyes were glued to the shore, watching parakeets fly overhead, tomtits’ flit about, then over the radio a call came that a Zodiac had seen the robin! All five Zodiacs sped over to where it had been seen, but unfortunately the small bird had disappeared back into the forest and wasn’t to be seen again. Though not for lack of effort, the Zodiacs hung about in the area for over an hour waiting with cameras primed, but in the end, everyone took a beautiful cruise along the cliffs of the islands, enjoying sea stacks and caves and fields of flowers like the Chatham Island forget-me-nots.

It was an expedition we would not forget, and as we made one last check on that small bit of exposed forest floor for the Black Robin, we began thinking one last time about jumping off the Zodiac onto the gangway as we bounced around in the Southern Ocean.

ENS - This morning we headed to Little Mangere for a Zodiac cruise. It turned out to be a fantastic day with Forbe’s Parakeet seen on several occasions. The highlight of the morning was undoubted the finding of a Black Robin by one of the Zodiacs, a species seen by very few birders as no landing is permitted on the island! Other birds noted included Swamp Harrier, Tui, Tomtit, Chatham Warbler, Brown Skua and White-fronted Tern.

The afternoon was a seabird spectacle with a chumming session in deeper water. Birds attending the boat included several Northern Royal and a single Southern Royal Albatross, Chatham, Salvin’s and Buller’s Albatross, Grey-faced, White-chinned and Cape Petrels, White-faced and Grey-backed Storm-petrel.

Day 17: 29 November
At sea to Dunedin

It was a quiet day at sea today. As we sailed west, fog shrouded our ship and many birders had time off to rest tired eyes and legs after standing watching the whole trip. The ship was quiet as boots and life jackets were collected. There were several lectures about bird photography and Orca, and then as people awoke from their naps, stories and photos began to be swapped around the ship as people took time to mentally prepare themselves for going back to the ‘real’ world. Dinner was served as the ship sailed across smooth seas over an ocean over 2,000 metres deep.

ENS - Today we woke to a heavy sea mist and very few birds noted, we did however see Grey-faced and White-chinned Petrels, White-faced and Grey-backed Storm-petrels.

Day 18: 30 November
At sea to Dunedin

Our last day at sea. Disembarkation briefings were held, and accounts were settled while people continued to share stories and photos. The voyage slideshow was shown, and we were taken on a photographic journey back through the last three weeks. It was fun to be reminded of some of the many moments we shared together onboard, and how over just three weeks of relative isolation we all came to know each other and build relationships in this vast swath of the Southern Ocean we have all come to experience.

ENS - Another day at sea and scattered sightings throughout. Early sightings included Buller’s and Hutton’s Shearwaters, both new species for the trip. Other notable species included Antipodean, Gibson’s Wandering, White-capped and Salvin’s Albatross Mottled, White-chinned, Grey-faced and Cook’s Petrels.

Day 19: 1 December
Disembarkation in Dunedin

We awoke bright and early today with the ship moored alongside. No more sea legs were required, but sea legs had been acquired and there were a few wobbles as we stepped out onto the wharf. Everyone said their last goodbyes and took off back to their disparate parts of the world with minds full of memories and experiences. Safe travels, and we hope to see you again someday onboard with Heritage Expeditions.

ENS - An early arrival into Dunedin where a few of us out on the deck saw White-capped and Salvin’s Albatross, Hutton’s Shearwater, Cape Petrel and three Arctic Skua. Entering the harbor gave us wonderful views of the Northern Royal Albatross colony at Tairoa Headland as well as the Otago Shags nesting on the opposite slope. And so ended our epic journey with many wonderful experiences and memories to share.

Part one of every day has been written about general activities, and part two (ENS) is a short summary of the Erik and Niall Show focusing on the birding experience.