1957: Melanesia Discoverer 12 Oct 2019

Day 1: Saturday 12 October
Madang, Papua New Guinea

Arriving in Madang from all around the world we checked into the Madang Resort, meeting up for a welcome dinner and overview of the next day, before travel weary expeditioners called it a night – eager to start our Melanesian adventure.

Day 2: Sunday 13 October
Madang north east coast Papua New Guinea

After breakfast in the Madang Resort, we were soon touring this tropical paradise known by the locals as 'Beautiful Madang', taking in the majestic Coastwatcher’s Kalibobo memorial, Machine Gun Beach, the Madang Museum and ending with a visit to the village of Bilbil where we were welcomed with a jubilant singsing, traditional pottery lessons and were skilled in the art of conch shell blowing by an 8-year-old boy from the village.

After settling into ship life this afternoon, we left Madang in light winds and calm seas bound for the mouth of the mighty Sepik River. The afternoon is given over to introductions to the Expedition Team and safety briefings to prepare us for our journey through Papua New Guinea and ending in the Solomon Islands. Our welcome dinner by chefs Juergen Gareiss and Bek Creighton served in the ‘Ice Culture’ restaurant set the scene for a delectable menu for the entire voyage.

Day 3: Monday 14 October
Kopar Village, Sepik River, Papua New Guinea

Terns dive-bomb at the mouth of the Sepik River like fighter pilots as our Zodiacs navigate, single file, through flotillas of vegetation moving on the swift current and out into the ocean on journeys to colonise new islands. We wake just before dawn to rain, 10 knot-winds and the Bismarck Sea gently rolling Spirit of Enderby on the first true day of our 'Melanesia Discoverer' expedition. An overcast induced darkness puts a short delay on the birder's departure before the rain eases and skies brighten. Small flocks of Collared and Torresian Imperial Pigeons, Orange-bellied and Orange-fronted Fruit Doves and Red-cheeked Parrots buzzed back and forth over the river. Several Blyth’s Hornbills lumbered slowly overhead and similarly Sulphur-crested Cockatoo’s noisily announced their presence. Along the waters edge Great and Little Egrets actively fished whilst a striking Pied Heron put on a great show slowly floating towards us on some water hyacinth. Whiskered Terns foraged for fish whilst above us a White-bellied Sea Eagle perched up, Brahminy Kites cruised the reeds and a Long-tailed Buzzard even gave some good views.

Not long after our remaining adventurers are in Zodiac's buzzing alongside the banks of one of the world's greatest river systems. At over 1,200km (700miles) in length, the Sepik is the longest river in Papua New Guinea, starting in the Victor Emmanuel ranges on the West Papuan border, it twist’s like a gigantic brown serpent moving east to the Bismarck Sea. Whistling Kites call from perches atop barren trees towering above the lush, tangled jungle flanking the river's edge as Sandpipers hop between the organic debris and Great Egrets, their elegant long necks stowed like dining trays for take-off, pass overhead. Gibson, our local guide, flashes a betel nut-stained smile as he climbs into the Zodiac and we enter one of the rivers many tributaries. The narrow passage is lined with spiky sago trees, the main plantation for nearby Kopar Village, and as we wind our way up the serpentine passage under a latticed cathedral of spiked green fronds he regales us with tales of the size the river's famed crocodiles can grow to. Sago, the staple diet of the Sepik people, is cultivated on a regular basis to obtain flour which is used to make pancakes and pudding served with steamed fish and greens. The fibre of the trunk is ponded and washed, with the starch being gathered once it settles in the bottom of a collection canoe.

At the village we're welcomed with elaborately costumed singsings and a traditional Dragon Dance set to the jingle of cowrie shell leg adornments and the rhythmic beat of kundu (hour glass wooden) drums and ancient songs. Shrouded by freshly cut aromatic plants, a brilliant red mask is held high by athletic legs and glides effortlessly around the dance arena. This was followed by a hilarious theatre performance which elicits screams of laughter from the local children, adults and expeditioners alike. As guests of the village we're invited to experience their traditional way of life including sago processing and crocodile hunting before exploring the unique, local crafts, carvings and bilums (string bags) as children splash about in small dugout canoes at the river's edge.

With full hearts we wave our goodbyes and head back to Spirit of Enderby where we notice plumes of smoke peeling off nearby volcano Kodova Island. It's an opportunity too good to pass up, so we put lunch on hold as Captain Max takes us for a closer look before setting sail for Manus Island. As we steam north, Dan and Tessa spot a juvenile Red-footed Booby cruising off the bow chasing flying fish taking to flight to escape the ship. Moments later a Tropical Orca (Killer Whale) is spotted crossing our path, cutting in close to check out the ship and a golden sun melting into the horizon puts on one last show before dinner.

This afternoon our inaugural presentation ‘Fishy Facts & ID’ by Courtney Rayes gives the inside word on what lies beneath. Recap this evening, and every night thereafter, highlighted the events of the day and gave an overview of what was to come.

Day 4: Tuesday 15 October
Manus Island, Derimbat Village, Papua New Guinea

This morning we boarded the Zodiacs to a full blown singsing as Derimbat Village's welcoming committee came out to greet Spirit of Enderby, anchored off Manus Island. The enthusiastic singing, dancing and drumming was all the more impressive as it was being performed on a moving banana boat. Located just 2-degrees south of the equator, the temperature was rapidly rising at 0645 as we skimmed over the glassy water in our fleet of Zodiacs following our escorts and enjoying the cool breeze on our faces.

Once ashore we were greeted by the village chief and island dignitaries before following flower-lined paths to the village centre/dance arena which had been spectacularly decorated with flowers and curtains of palm fronds for the occasion. The enthusiastic welcoming continued at a frenetic pace set by the island's drummers as parrots in the trees above joined the booming chorus and whoops ringing out through the jungle. Having thrown down the gauntlet, it was time for our expeditioners to reciprocate in a fast and furious dance off. Rising to the challenge we joined in the festivities, providing much entertainment as we attempted to mimic their elaborate and traditional dance moves – much to the delight of our hosts and visitors from neighbouring villages.

Our birders set out on foot to work their way up the nearby hills in search of some of the local and regional endemics the first of which, Manus Friarbird, proved to be very common. Manus Cuckooshrike soon followed as did Bismarck White-eye and Bismarck Black Myzomela, and Meek’s Pygmy Parrot. At least half a dozen Nicobar Pigeons were also found in the Rubber plantations.

After lunch back on board Spirit of Enderby we headed over to white sand-fringed Papinbutch Island for the first snorkel of the expedition where, below the surface, colourful fish darted in and out of the coral gardens. Birds and juvenile sea kraits kept those onshore entertained and an adult banded sea krait cruised around several snorkellers in the water. A myriad of sea cucumber and sea star species were spread across the reef and sand patches provided great arenas for numerous goby species. Whilst the snorkellers revelled in underwater delights a stroll around the island produced a surprising amount of wildlife including a nest of Coconut Lorikeets in a hollowed log on the ground, and many Black Myzomelas.

During the day dozens of butterflies were seen including the more common Crow Butterfly and vibrant Blue-triangle Butterfly. Large Orchard Swallowtails were seen briefly through village huts and bushes, their striking black and white wings catching everyone’s eye. The most exceptional sighting however, was of the Ulysseys Blue Butterfly. Its undersides are well-camouflaged, whiles its back displays metallic blue colors bordered with black and ending in little tails. Later on our Zodiac cruise we saw large webs spun by Golden Orb Weavers and many more Ulysseys Butterflies flying closely to the boats. It was here where we got a brief glance at the red and black colors of the female counterpart of the Orchard Swallowtail Butterfly.

Day 5: Wednesday 16 October
Mussau & Little Mussau Island, Papua New Guinea

“Welcome to paradise,” said marine specialist Courtney as the bow of our Zodiac nudged the pristine, white sand beach of Little Mussau Island.

With nodding palms lining the shore, ancient trees supporting numerous hammocks and branches reaching across the sea to provide shade in and out the glassy water, it was the perfect spot to enjoy chef Juergen and Bek's impressive beach buffet lunch.

The afternoon was spent snorkelling the expansive, colourful coral reef teeming with neon-lit fish and giant clams just metres from the beach. Massive corals were covered in Christmas tree worms and lively anthias were schooling above. Many of us spent the entire afternoon floating effortlessly across the surface admiring the vibrant reef. Other marine highlights of the day included turtles, stingrays and flying fish sightings during our Zodiac cruise throughout the tiny islets. Expeditioners also enjoyed rehydrating with fresh coconut juice sipped from the source while sitting in the shallows under the dappled light of the trees. Little Mussau, an idyllic little island with one small family and beautiful fringing reef. Giant clams were absolutely abundant on the reef in an array of colours and sizes.

Earlier in the day on larger sibiling Mussau Island we followed a dirt road through its regenerating forest to small waterfall and swimming hole. The cool water was instantly refreshing and a knotted rope hanging from a towering tree supporting several species fern, mosses and vines above the waterfall provided an adrenaline fix for some of the more adventurous expeditioners. Downstream, much entertainment was had watching a large bulldozer push a stalled truck free of the river.

For the birders it was a day for searching for endemic species. The habitat of Mussau has been heavily modified however we were still able to find a few good areas. The first block of forest produced the striking black and white Mussau Monarch, whilst a bolt of brown and rufous across the path was made by a Russet-tailed Thrush. A large monitor lizard clung to a tree trying to catch a few morning rays. Above us Yellow-bibbed Fruit Doves and Mackinlay’s Cuckoo-doves put on a good show. After searching in key areas for the Mussau Fantail we had drawn a blank so it was with great surprise what one appeared next to the track where it showed incredibly well. Unbelievably we then located a further pair just down the track. A Blue-faced Parrotfinch topped off the mornings excellent birding.

The trees were covered with many other epiphytes including the incredible variety of Ant Plants. First we encounter the Ant Fern (Lecanopterus sp.) growing eye-level along our walk. We tapped the roots of the fern and watching tiny red ants pop out to defend it. These ants live inside of the fern and provide the plant with protection and nutrients, while the plants give the ants a safe nesting spot. This same relationship was observed in the large bulbous Ant Plants (Myrmecodia spp.) which have galleries and domatia inside which are suited to their ant-friends.

Many other amazing arthropods were found today, including blue and red Millipedes. These many-legged creatures are harmless to humans with their only defense being a foul smelling liquid which they can emit if threatened. Millipedes like these are important nutrient recyclers and we were excited to see so many along our forest walk. Another blue worm-like creature crossed our path as well and resulted in many excited shouts. It was the caterpillar of a Silk Moth (Saturniidae). It’s blue and yellow body was adorned with long red spikes at the head and rear, warning any predators to not bother it. Finally, we also saw the largest spider of the trip so far, a Giant Golden Orb Weaver Spider (Nephila sp.). Its dazzling golden body made it all seem like it was made from blown glass and we enjoyed its clever crafty large web.

With the local school closed for the holidays and a new science lab funded by a logging company being built we Zodiac cruised the topaz waters watching the shadows of golf umbrella-sized rays gliding over the white sand and green sea turtles breaking the surface as they caught another breath and before sliding back beneath the water.

Back on board Spirit of Enderby with sun-pink faces we joined Dan in the lecture room for his presentation 'Pacific Discoverers' before pre-dinner drinks and a recap of another unforgettable day.

Later in the evening, the blue-white flashes of lightning would draw expeditioners to the bridge where Mother Nature was putting on a light show to rival the finest pyrotechnic displays.

Day 6: Thursday 17 October
Tabar Island, New Ireland, Papua New Guinea

For the birders a continental breakfast was becoming the default and at first light the Zodiacs headed in to the imposing coast of New Ireland for a full day of birding on the Lelet Plataue. The cool air was a welcome relief from the heat and humidity of the past few days, and grey skies kept bird activity especially following a short sharp tropical rain shower!

The birders worked their way up to nearly 1,000m elevation and into forest festooned by mosses, ferns and orchids. With nearly ten hours of birding they managed to wrack up an impressive haul of species which included the still undescribed Bismarck Flyrobin and the endemic White-naped Lory, whilst a number of other hard to see and range restricted species also put in an appearance including Bismarck Hanging Parrot, Pied Cuckoo-dove, Black Imperial Pigeon, White-necked Coucal and Long-tailed Myna whilst energetic flocks of Red-chinned and Red-flanked Lorikeets gorged themselves on flowers, Song Parrots announced their presence vociferously and Red Myzomelas buzzed from canopy to canopy. A myriad butterflies including giant Birdwings and Ulysses Butterflies floated along the road and through the trees. After ten hours birding the final flourish occurred as they waited for the Zodiac to come in, and with the ship in the background a pod of Indo-pacific Bottlenosed Dolphins surfaced with a turtle in front of them!

Following the birders departure, our Expedition Leader Judd announced we were in for a true expedition day as we piled in Zodiacs and skimmed over the water to explore New Ireland's Tabar and Tatau Islands.

It wasn't long before the buzz of our outboard motors attracted the attention of villagers who proceeded to wave us over from their beaches and small settlements scattered along Tabar Island. Ringed by coral reefs made landing difficult, but when two young boys paddled out in their dugout to meet us we found a safe passage through to a small beach at Tiripatz Village.

The first ship to ever visit their village, our hosts were just as excited to meet us as we them, as they showed us around their village and flourishing crops and gardens. With questions coming from both sides we learned about life on their island as we told them were we had travelled from to be there.

Metallic blue Blowflies could be found around their garden, alongside stunning Black and Orange Tiger Beetles, Brown Fritillary Butterflies, and Spider Wasps. The most stunning insect of this coastal village amongst the mangroves was the Owl-eyed Butterfly with its striking orange eyespots amongst black and white patches on its wings. Several were seen puddling and collecting nutrients from a felled palm tree, while others darted between huts near the water.

We then Zodiac cruised along the channel between Tabar and Tatau Islands where Red Stilt Mangroves sat above impressive coral walls in impossibly clear water.

The afternoon was spent snorkelling along a sheer coral wall that disappeared into a cobalt infinity as we entered the water straight off one Zodiac and slowly drifted to the next. Stony plate corals were sitting in tiers on the wall, soft coral fingers and folds protruded from every gap, and a school of surgeonfish and parrotfish were swiftly feeding along the crest. The colourful, diverse site was so captivating we had no option but to extend our time in the water and postpone our return to the ship.

This was followed by a special reading by Michael in the bar from James A Michener's Rascals in Paradise detailed Charles I of Nouvelle France's ill-fated to colonise an area of southern New Ireland we would soon be passing.

Day 7: Friday 18 October
Lambom Island, Southern New Ireland

Spirit of Enderby's bridge was the place to be this morning with a Beck's Petrel, Wedge-tailed Shearwaters, Noddies, Red-footed and Brown Boobies and a Leatherback Turtle all spotted before breakfast. A change in weather in the early hours had brought torrential rain, lightning, 15-knot south easterly winds and a 2-metre swell which was gently rolling the ship.

Things calmed as we pulled into the channel between Lambom and New Ireland Islands with the rain and lightning easing in time for half of our expeditioners to go snorkelling and the other half to go searching for the site of Charles I of Nouvelle France's failed attempt to establish a colony here as mentioned by Michael the previous evening. Both groups were successful with the snorkellers experiencing some of the best coral of the voyage so far with underwater highlights including a dugong, lionfish (two species), pipefish, colourful feather stars duster worms and five species of nudibranch displaying a variety of vibrant colours and textures among the aquatic wonderland. Our other group not only found the failed colony complete with bricks and millstone, they also saw a dugong while Jessa found several interesting insects including a peppermint stick insect.

This afternoon we were welcomed onto Lambom Island with the call of a conch shell and greeted by camouflaged warriors wielding spears and bow and arrows. Several singsings from the village children and elders and it was time to play games and explore the village. Expeditioners tried their hand at paddling dugout canoes while the children were given Zodiac rides.

During our insect expedition a large Orchard Swallowtail Butterfly was seen out foraging for nectar and even mistook one of us for a flower with the red raincoat resembling the local Hibiscus. A very special treat was found along the shore though, a Peppermint Stick Insect (Megacrania batesii). Specimens of this species from this area were only collected once based on the published literature, and that collection was done in 1956. Overtime, they’ve persisted and the locals ensured that they were everywhere with different types to be found at different elevations.

After the rain cleared, we all were treated to a village visit and singsing at Rarakai. After the welcome, many of us went for a wander and Jessa was soon shouting about a new exciting find. It was a young Leaf Insect hatchling (Phyllium sp.). Species of this genus are rarely found in the wild given their cryptic appearance where they strikingly resemble leaves. Soon after this find was an enormous new stick insect: the Thorny Devil (Eurycantha calcarata), locally called Cah. These large stick insects are covered with spines and spikes which they can use to defend themselves from predators and which males will use to fight off other males to access a female. They do not bite though. Instead they peacefully eat leaves and largely come out at night to do so. These three spectacular stick insects were amongst the top three favorite insects for our entomologist guide Jessa and she couldn’t stop smiling for the rest of the day.

Farewelled by a dugout canoe flotilla surrounding Spirit of Enderby, we headed out into open water where a spectacular rainbow/sunset awaited and a pod of Spinner Dolphins joined us to cruise the bow surge. Their excited clicks inviting others to join until there were around 3 groups and up to 60 dolphins escorting us to Rabaul.

Day 8: Saturday 19 October
Kokopo/Rabaul, New Britain, Papua New Guinea

A faint breeze and glassy water greeted us as Spirit of Enderby sailed into the dramatic flooded caldera of Rabaul harbour. Surrounded by the jagged peaks of six volcanoes, we jumped in the Zodiacs and headed to Kokopo.

In 1994 this was the site of an enormous volcanic eruption by Tavurvur and Vulcan Volcanoes that levelled most of the former capital of New Britain, Rabaul township, leaving in its wake tons of volcanic ash, which to this day is still being excavated. Although the thriving new settlement of Kokopo is supposed to replace Rabaul and provide a much safer locale for development on the Gazelle Peninsula, the pull of the old harbour remains strong, and rebuilding is sneaking back into the ruined town, once the jewel of the southwestern Pacific. Situated on New Britain Island, Rabaul was a thriving capital of German New Guinea in the late 1800s, then later placed under Australian control by a League of Nations mandate following WWI. After the Japanese invasion in WWII, the island became an important and impregnable base, laced with over 500kms of tunnels into the hills—a honeycomb of interconnecting passages and bunkers, at its height with over 100,000 Japanese troops and thousands of POWs. Allied bombing raids were incessant towards the end of the war, and the town was flattened, with over 40 ships sunk in the harbour.

Filling four mini vans and led by local guides we visited the rusting ruins inside the Japanese Barge Tunnels, the Rabaul Volcanic Observatory with its jaw-slackening views over the harbour and crater rim, the bunker/hideout of Pearl Harbour commander Yamamoto and neighbouring museum, and the site of the former Rabaul airport still covered in volcanic ash and rock following the 1994 eruptions of Tavurvur and Vulcan Volcanoes. We then went slightly off the itinerary to check out a sunken Japanese supply vessel repurposed as part of the wharf before joining the locals shopping at the bustling Kokopo markets.

Mosses, epiphytes, and shrubs grew alongside the tunnels and small butterflies (Graphium sp.) could be seen foraging around them. Spider Wasps circled the sandy areas, searching for places to dig new burrows, while a female Birdwing Butterfly (Ornithoptera primaus) darted overhead. One of the most difficult to spot insects, a thin Lichen Stick Insect was spotted outside one of the smaller tunnels amongst the ferns as well.

The afternoon was spent snorkelling and beachcombing at the Duke of York Islands at a new site suggested by the local dive shop. An abundance of sergeant fish were swarming the reef and greeted us on entering the water. Vibrant blue was definitely the dominant colour, with damsels and surgeons flitting around the coral heads. Meanwhile, in the shallows an extensive seagrass bed and coral bommies (large coral boulders) were enjoyed by others snorkeling straight off the beach. On shore, a variety of orange Huntsmen Spiders and their vibrant colours were admired. Other familiar insects made an appearance amongst the Pandanus which had been cut back a bit by locals to make a banana garden. Once again we saw the Black and Orange Tiger Beetle, a Lacewing, and an arboreal Hermit Crab.

Re-boarding Spirit of Enderby we enjoyed another sensational sunset against the sharp angles of the volcanic landscape.

This evening we celebrated Michael's 80th birthday with a tropical-themed cocktail party, followed by a special dinner and performance by on board operatic legend Maria who performed Maori lullaby Hine e Hine for the birthday boy. Before bed we put our clocks forward 1 hour as Nissan Island is in the Autonomous Region of Bouganville and they are on Solomon Island's time.

Day 9: Sunday 20 October
Nissan Island, Papua New Guinea

It looked like all of Nissan Island had turned out to meet us this morning as we Zodiac cruised over the impossibly blue water of the Buka Channel towards the smiling and waving villagers.

The festivities began with welcome singsings, fresh coconut juice and several dances including crowd favourite the 'wild chicken'. Having professional opera singer Maria on board enabled us to return the favour with a haunting rendition of Maori lullaby Hine e Hine, much to the delight of our hosts from all three of the island's Balil villages.

Soon we were accompanied by our local guides and wandered the village, some of the female expeditioners hand-in-hand with the young children, with our new friends to explore this part of the Autonomous State of Bougainville. Sharing stories about life on the island and its rich WWII history, many were also concerned about the rising ocean level, climate change and the land they had already lost to erosion.

Following the singsing the birders headed out to search the forest and village for their main target, Atoll Starling and it didn’t take long to find two obliging individuals. These starlings have beautiful honey-coloured eyes separating them from the similar Singing Starling. As well as the starling they also found Red-flanked Lorikeets, Beach and Melanesian Kingfishers and Island Imperial Pigeons. A Bismark Flying Fox also made a hasty retreat as they strolled along the track. Along the coast an Eastern Osprey cruised in search of a fishy meal.

Some expeditioners returned to the island in the afternoon looking for birds and enjoying cooking and basket weaving demonstrations, others stayed on board to watch Mr Pip in preparation for tomorrow's visit to Bougainville Island as the remainder headed out into the deep blue to snorkel another steep reef drop-off. The ocean was dead calm, aside from a gentle swell rolling in, and we slid off the Zodiacs to experience the spectacular reef. Diverse hard corals spread across the wall and colourful, energetic fish life danced above the corals. The amazing visibility allowed for a huge range of vision across the reef flats, along the wall, and out into the expansive blue. The overall reef outlook was so great and diverse it was difficult to focus on just individual species, leaving us with a great appreciation for a healthy reef.

A wander through the Pandanus forest was full of some interesting insects. Several Black Stink Bugs buzzed past us and were so large that at first we thought they were Carpenter Bees. Closer inspection showed their ‘true bug’ nature and more vibrantly colored nymphs were spotted as well. St. Andrew’s Cross spiders were spotted patiently waiting in their webs for some tasty visitors, while we searched through the plants for more elusive insects. Towards the end of our walk, we were greatly rewarded when Jessa spotted several individuals of a unique type of stick insect which feeds on epiphytes like Philodendron. These thin brown stick insects have slight horns on their heads and are likely to be undocumented from the island.

Several little Blue Lycaenid Butterflies darted through the local gardens where our new friends grew Bananas, Tapioca, and Sweet Potatoes. Along the forest paths were several skinks. We often heard them rustle in the trees above us and occasionally got a glimpse of them. Throughout the morning we spotted a large Black Glossy Skink, Yellow Lined Skinks, large Brown Skinks, and some small Tan Mottled Geckos.

While below the water's surface a diverse array of healthy stony corals, including some impressive plate variations, and schooling fish awaited exploration along the reef wall while out in the blue larger fish species patrolled.

Back on board it was time for a special presentation by photographer extraordinaire Ewen with some handy tips on how to capture the perfect shot before recap in the bar and another epic three-course dinner from Juergen and Bek.

Day 10: Monday 21 October
Bougainville Island, Papua New Guinea

The morning dawned heavy with humidity and expectation as Spirit of Enderby sat anchored off Bougainville Island. We are among the first visitors to return to the island and an early morning downpour has slightly delayed our departure. On shore the islanders are patiently awaiting the arrival of a fuel tanker to restart their generators having spent the last two nights without power, and next month they will vote in a referendum on whether their will become independent or continue as an Autonomous Region of Papua New Guinea.

Filling mini vans we are appreciative of the cooler climes as we make our way up to the mist covered mountains behind the township of Arawa, to the abandoned Panguna copper and gold mine. Both the land and its people are still scarred from the Bougainville crisis/civil war brought on by disputes over indigenous control of land and inequality of profit distribution from the mine established in 1963. Rivers still run either muddy or stained blue by the copper leaching from the site, while machinery, plant and worker accommodations have been destroyed, the metals sold for scrap or left to decay as the jungle silently reclaims the land.

We are surprised when our guides tell us that mining is still taking place, just on a much smaller scale, with landowners fashioning their own equipment upcycled from the remaining scrap. Reaching an elevation of 1,000 metres we are perched on the edge of the old mine site, at its peak the largest open cut copper mine in the world, the former mountain now a gaping cavity almost as deep as it once was high.

A wide variety of Dragonflies were spotted around the Panguna mine. The vegetation had began to take the area back over and the insects had swarmed in as well. First we noticed the numerous blooming Orchids amongst the grasses and hillsides. Some of the remaining buildings were covered with wasp nests, each with a dangling guardian above. Brilliant metallic blue Dragonflies were found delicately resting on blades of grass and stunning red Dragonflies were seen darting near the water to hunt for prey.

Some impressive Orange and White Butterflies were seen on the local blooming trees, which were a new species to our insect-guide, Jessa. Later on though, as we were visiting the school, we also saw some lovely Orchard Swallowtail Butterflies with striking black and white colors. Occasionally the Green Birdwing would make a flitting appearance before disappearing again in the bush with its large metallic green wings.

An apocalyptic landscape awaits at the former workers' apartments, the abandoned ghost town ruins now used as schools and housing for those displaced during the uprising, we visit the school and chat with the locals before leaving for Arawa market. The market's aisles hum with the chatter as hundreds of locals shopping under the thatched roof and stall owners lazily wave long sticks with plastic bags attached to the ends to keep the flies at bay.

Having enjoyed a successful morning, our birders spotted Yellow- and Grey-throated White-eyes, Midget Flowerpeckers and Red-capped Myzomelas buzzing around everywhere. In the sub canopy we managed to locate the endemic Bougainville Monarch, as well as Chestnut-bellied and Solomon’s Monarchs, Oriole Whistlers and Steel-blue Flycatchers. Solomon’s Cockatoo’s announced their presence noisily and a pair of Pied Goshawks did a brief display over the canopy. After some searching we eventually found several Bougainville Crows defending their territory from some cockatoos. One of the highlights of the slow walk downhill was watching the sublime Queen Victoria’s Birdwing butterflies with a male performing a beautiful aerial display to draw in the females.

Rejoining the group for lunch before we all visit a Catholic Missionary where we are welcomed by a new singsing experience complete with pan flutes, guitar and gentle drumming. The strong connection the people of Bougainville have with those living on the Solomon Islands is reflected in their music. Near the end of the welcome Carl is reminded on the importance of not standing under coconut trees as a large coconut fell just 3-metres from where he was standing.

The venue for this afternoon’s singsing also proved good for some casual birding. A walk around the grounds produced some excellent views of Cardinal Lory and Red-flanked Lorikeet as well as a surprise trio of Ultra-marine Kingfishers, Brown-winged Starlings and a Song Parrot. They also found Neon Cuckoo Bees feeding on some flowers. These bees parasitize other native solitary bees, but have a more peaceful adulthood. A black Tiger Beetle was seen trailing up a Coconut tree behind a Gecko, each hunting for some small insects to eat. At long last, the most exciting insect of the region was spotted though: The Bougainville Blue. This is a large Birdwing Butterfly (Ornithoptera urvillianeus) and the males have a rare metallic blue color. Males were first spotted darting into a shady patch of forest. Later a female was seen resting and soon a male appeared to ‘dance’ above her. The males of this species will hover and fly in circles above the female, dancing for her like a bird of paradise and hoping for a chance to mate. This was certainly one of the highlights of the trip as multiple males were seen flying and displaying. It was most certainly the perfect end to an extraordinary day.

Returning to the wharf Captain Max and Yuri are waiting in Zodiacs to ferry us back to the ship. We farewell our time in Papua New Guinea with a swim off the ship then set sail for Choiseul Island, in the Solomon Islands, after dinner.

Day 11: Tuesday 22 October
Sui River, Taro Town & Supizae Village Solomon Islands

Axe and spear wielding Supizae warriors came out to greet our Zodiacs as we approached Choiseul Island on our first expedition day in the Solomon Islands. The spirited mock attack took many of us by surprise – certainly Ewen who's camera was struck by a spear and Ewen who it looked like was going to be axed in the skull, but it wasn't long before the fearsome faces were replaced by wide smiles and we were invited ashore to experience a morning of Solomon Islands hospitality and culture.

Having spent the earlier part of the morning Zodiac cruising up the Sui River, we watched as the mangrove-lined banks of the salt water passage narrowed, making way for clear, fresh water and a rainforest of ginger, rosewood, palm and coconut trees. Leaves spiraled down from the canopy above as we made our way to an impressive waterfall.

The trees, aflutter with birds, kept our birders happy. Two nestling Willie Wagtails clung precipitously to their nest suspended over the river whilst a Beach Kingfisher bolted away noisily. A dinky, vibrant-blue Little Kingfisher was the next to put in an appearance lurking in the shadows of the mangrove leaves before melting away. Overhead Moustached Treeswifts cruised around whilst a stunning Claret-breasted Fruit-dove showed well as did Red-knobbed Imperial Pigeons. Brown-winged Starlings fed on a fruiting tree whilst Cardinal Lory’s and Solomon’s Cockatoo’s exploded vociferously from the canopy. Searching carefully revealed a pair of Ultramarine Kingfishers and later in the day a pair of Sacred Kingfishers in the village pushed up the day tally to five species of kingfisher. Expeditioners also spotted a monitor lizard. Alas there was no sign of the resident crocodile along the river.

Several different species of Ant Plants were seen growing on the trees, some up in the canopy and others near the water. Many were striking sizes and some birds were even seen checking out these large epiphytes. The Ant Plant does no harm to the tree it grows on and only uses it for a lift up to the sunlight and, in this case, away from the salty water. Ant colonies can establish inside these plants which have folding passageways inside. These plants can then gain nutrients and protection from the ants living inside, but today we saw some potentially being taken over by birds which were hunting for a nesting spot. Locals are also known to eat the plants by slicing them up and cooking them like a potato. Plant collectors prize different species of Ant Plants and many remain unknown to science as they occur in some of the most remote regions of the planet. We were very lucky to see numerous species with impressive representatives on this trip as they are very slow-growing and unique. Several Crow Butterflies darted past us on this cruise and were seen again later in the day.

Back on Choiseul Island the children stole the day as they reenacted traditional songs and dance, however it was the passionate performances of the adults which invoked a deluge. As expeditioners huddled under umbrellas and under the cover of the school, the show went on as rain flew from flailing limbs and was shaken from hair during the energetic, and often comical, routines.

The rain eased, as if on cue, as the performances came to an end and we enjoyed an authentic taste of village life with delicious baked sweet potato and fish along with fresh fruit and delicacies of ngali nut slice and cassava and coconut rolls offered.

After lunch expeditioners divided among the three afternoon activities; advanced ocean snorkelling off the Zodiacs, beachcombing/snorkelling and visiting Taro, the region's small provincial capital. The snorkelling site was full of many highlights including two species of cephalopods – bigfin reef squid and broadclub cuttlefish, and a hybrid anemonefish known as a white bonnet thanks to the white hat markings on its head. Fern soft corals were actively feeding with their daisy-like polyps creating a wonderful display and an abundance of feather star arms were outstretched in the current. Oddly shaped, trumpetfish and rabbitfish were the fish of the day and plenty of cleaning stations were observed across the reef. To top it all off, a few snorkelers caught a glimpse of a black tip reef shark disappearing into the blue rounding out an excellent first day in the Solomon’s.

Day 12: Wednesday 23 October
Kolombangara, Solomon Islands

The Solomon Islands delivered another day of expedition adventures as we spent the afternoon snorkelling the wreck of a US NAVY FAF Grumman Wildcat (carrier version) World War II plane off a private island in Kolombangara and hiked through conservation jungle in the morning.

Greeted by Tokuana Islands (technically two small islands connected by a golden stretch of sand) owner Lily Duri, fresh frangipanis were tucked behind our ears before warrior women gave chase to some of the expeditioners around the island. We then joined them in dance to a PVC pipe band and songs performed by a nearby village before exploring the shores and snorkelling in the abundant coral gardens off the beach. Several expeditioners also tried their hands at paddling a war canoe, with the female proving better adept than the men who all capsized.

Zodiacs shuttled expeditioners out to the wreck site where, 10-metres below the aquamarine surface, rested the intact, ghostly remains of the plane on the sandy sea floor. Thought to have ditched in 1942, Lily's father told her it had ran out of gas before crashing in their aquatic backyard, however there are other stories it may have been hit pursuing Japanese in the north, the cockpit now home to numerous fish species and the wings crusted in corals. Scroll and coralline algae, sponges and corals have colonized the wreck and a variety of fish could be seen cruising around the structure. Meanwhile, the reefs surrounding the tiny island provided great enjoyment for those snorkelling off the beach.

For the final time the birders lead the way departing the ship as the first light spread across the sky revealing the impressive peak of Kolombangara volcano shrouded in cloud. Hoping into the open-back trucks the birders headed up to Imbu Rano, a beautiful covered lookout with views out to the mountain across unbroken rainforest blanketing valleys and ridges. A Solomon’s Sea Eagle soared above the canopy and with a bit of coaxing a Crested Cuckoo-dove put on an aerial display for us. A pair of Blyth’s Hornbills bounced through the canopy and Buff-headed Coucals called distantly. The birders left the relaxing veranda for a slow stroll down the track where a small flock of Solomon’s White-eyes appeared quickly followed by what was to be the highlight here, a flowering tree attracting lots of parrots.

The multi-coloured Duchess Lorikeet with its red, yellow, green and black was the first to catch their eye, and a great species to see so well. A total of four of these stunners graced the tree but were frequently kept away by some bullying Cardinal Lory’s. The diminutive green Meek’s Lorikeets also faced the wrath of the Cardinal Lory’s whilst Song Parrots seemed a little more resistant to it! The final highlight was an immaculate White-capped Monarch singing away from the shadows. All in all a successful morning.

Non-birders found themselves sitting in the back of two 3 tonne trucks on wooden plank seating as we bounced our way 400-metres up Kolombangara Island to the Imbu Rano Lodge and Conservation Area. The rustic lodge/ranger accommodation, also used by visiting scientists from around the world, sits perched above the canopies of the lush rainforest offering a bird's eye view of the surrounding area and over to extinct volcano Kolomgangara - one of the highest points in the Solomon Islands archipelago.

Spanning some 20,000 hectares, the conservation estate takes up approximately 28% of the island, making it the largest conservation area in the Solomon Islands. Voyagers had the option of a shorter rainforest walk and a more steeper descent down to the Villa River where we were rewarded with a soak in the cooling water and some spectacular falls from Roger and Isaac.

These rainforests were also home to an amazing variety of insects. Crow Butterflies with unique silver bands were cheekily flying by us, teasing us by thinking they’ll land on our hands. Others displayed amongst ferns, flying in figure eights for a potential mate. The large Orchard Swallowtail Butterflies appeared too and a lime tree was full of their chrysalis, with new butterflies soon to emerge. The grasshoppers proved to be more vibrant than the butterflies here though and the Jamaica Grasshopper was spotted in several spots with his bright red, yellow and green body.

Many incredible insects were hiding as well. A giant rainforest mantis appeared and landed on a few people, harmlessly crawling about. Some Bark Mantids darted along tree trunks and over leaves in search of prey. Some sparkling Blue Weevils wove their ways between the orchids and an Orchid Caterpillar was munching away on the orchid leaves, looking like a dead leaf himself.

Returning to our landing site we found a makeshift market where the Western Province's famed master carvers, renowned for their intricate wood and stone pieces, were displaying their work. Created in Ringgi and Boba Villages, many of the carvings will decorate the homes of their proud new owners scattered around the globe.

Day 13: Thursday 24 October
Arnavan Islands, Solomon Islands

It takes just minutes for all 119 Hawksbill Turtle hatchlings to reach the ocean off the Arnavon Islands. Looking and moving like wind up toys, we watch in quiet awe as the tiny turtles instinctively make their way to the water in a flurry of flippers as Arnavon Community Marine Park project co-ordinator Henry Kaniki strums his trusty ukulele.

Their safe passage assisted by a specially-created channel in the sand created by the islands' rangers who have protected the eggs and young turtles up until this moment. Our presence this morning ensures none will be taken by birds before they reach the water – further increasing their chance of survival.

Knowing that only 1 in 1,000 of these critically endangered hatchlings will reach adulthood and return in 30 years to breed and lay their own eggs on the same stretch of beach emphasises the importance of the work being done by this community-led initiative. It is humbling to learn how our support, along with the surrounding villages, has secured safe nesting sites for the turtles.

Henry informs us that around 1,500 turtles nest on the Island each year, with 12 rangers assisting some 200,000 hatchlings to make it safely to the water. As the last of our turtles take their first dip in the ocean, we wish them well knowing they will need more than our good wishes.

The island and coast also proved productive for the birders. On the mud flats Terek Sandpiper, Mongolian, Greater Sand and Pacific Golden Plovers probed whilst Bar- and Black-tailed Godwits waded deeper into the water. A pair of Beach Thick-knees stood motionless in the shadows of some vegetation. A target here was Melanesian Megapode, a species that loves small, sandy islands. The first trawl of the island proved fruitless but just as the group started back a bird called from the bush. After some careful positioning the Megapode flew across in front of the group giving everyone brief views of this elusive species.

Following the unique opportunity of watching the hatchlings start their journey to the open ocean, we set off on the final leg of our own journey aboard Spirit of Enderby bound for Honiara. During the afternoon we enjoy Jessa's informative, pre-lunch presentation How to Survive in a Rainforest (for insects), final recap and slideshow, and sensational farewell dinner from Juergen and Bek.

Day 14: Friday 25 October
Honiara, Solomon Islands

Early morning, we anchor in the harbour off Honiara, on the northern coast of Guadalcanal, by the Mataniko River. Honiara was a military base during World War II and is the capital of the Solomon Islands. The Solomon Islands witnessed major naval battles in this region and some would say was the starting point of turning the tide on the Japanese invasion within the Pacific War. This morning we enjoy the opportunity of touring Honiara, visiting WWII historical sites, and sights inclusive of the markets and museum before returning downtown to ready ourselves for our onward travel plans, while lucky expeditioners doing back to back voyages returned to Spirit of Enderby for 'Secrets of Melanesia'.