1866: Galapagos of the Southern Ocean 22 Dec 2018

Day 1: Saturday 21st December
Invercargill

This evening we gathered at the Kelvin Hotel for our first meal together and to meet with our Expedition Leader Alex Fergus, Cruise Director Rachael Iveson-Brown and a few other members of the Heritage Expeditions office and expedition team. We were briefed on plans for the next day and the adventure we were about to set out on.

Day 2: Sunday 22nd December
Port of Bluff and the Foveaux Strait

The group are met from 08:45 this morning for baggage checks, they were loaded for transportation direct the ship this morning. At 09:00 we embarked a coach for the 1hr 15 minute journey to Curio Bay. En route to Curio Bay we passed through rural undulating countryside, the first cut of summer hay bales could be seen lined up neatly in fields. We passed whitebait fishing huts along the river, and paddocks filled with livestock.

Curio Bay was very picturesque; it was a clear blue sky day. At close by Porpoise Bay, those who made their way there first after disembarking the coach were lucky enough to view a small pod of Hector Dolphins swimming close to shore, Lucy, Elana and Benjamin took the opportunity to take a swim and the dolphins came in close, what a great start to the three True Young Explorers expedition adventures. The rest of us explored the Curio Scape interactive centre and headed to view the Petrified Forest or wander across the rocks filled with rock pools. After lunch we headed back to Invercargill, as we got closer in the distance we could see Stewart Island, there were few clouds on the horizon, it looked a great day to head out to sea.

At 15:00 we arrived at the Port of Bluff, after security checks we made our way through the port to pull up alongside the Spirit of Enderby, Professor Khromov. Alex Fergus and the expedition team were there to greet and welcome us onboard, it was time to find cabins and explore the ship before completing custom formalities on the bridge. At 16:00 the Spirit of Enderby departed the wharf, safely escorted by the pilot boat we headed out of the harbour.

After welcome briefings we completed a lifeboat drill, the lifeboats were cosy proving a quick way to get to know some of the fellow passengers onboard. A Zodiac briefing in the lecture theatre was held at 18:30 so we were prepared for our first Zodiac experience hopefully at The Snares tomorrow morning weather/sea conditions permitting.

Heading out of the Port of Bluff the weather is pleasant, the sun reflected off the water. Our pilot disembarks and as we leave the calm waters the port we enter the Foveaux Strait, the ship starts to rock gently as we head across the strait, and onward past the east coast of Stewart Island, the island is New Zealand’s third largest. We have time at leisure around the vessel until our pre-dinner drinks in the bar which is followed by a lovely first dinner at sea prepared by Damien and Bek at 19:30.

Most people opted for an early night. The ship is gently rolling as we drift off to sleep and start our journey into the Southern Ocean.

Day 3: Monday 23rd December
The Snares and At Sea

We arrive at The Snares at 04:30, dropping anchor. Lisle and Alex were awake long before most of us assessing conditions for a Zodiac cruise this morning, the seas were a bit choppy but they decided it was possible, and in the lee of the coastline conditions for the Zodiacs would be calmer. Those that woke early were able to see the early morning departures of the Sooty Shearwaters from their nests on The Snares.

After a 07:00 breakfast we all attended a briefing. We boarded Zodiacs at 08:15, for many this was their first time in a Zodiac and it was a chance to put into practice what was explained at the Zodiac briefing yesterday. The sea swell made boarding a little challenging for some but quickly each craft filled and the Zodiacs headed off from South Promontory, just north of Broughton Island and cruised along the east coast. As we approached the coastline the rock granite structures could be seen clearly and we were greeting with our first group of Snares Crested Penguins.

Salvins Albatross and Cape Petrels were in abundance around us and the next few hours were spent exploring the many coves, caves and bays of the eastern coast. Weaving in and out of the small outlets, past waving kelp as it moved with the tide, waves were crashing against rocks and New Zealand Fur Seals and New Zealand Sea Lion sat upon rocks watching our Zodiacs pass by.

Birdlife darted in and out the branches of the large tree daisy Olearia lyallii, and a few Buller’s Albatross glided overhead, it would not be long before the rocky granites and overhangs would be covered with these mollymawks. We continued to make our way along the coastline and as we rounded Station Point from Ho Ho Bay into flotillas of Snares Created Penguins we noticed the distinctive dorsal fins of Orca just offshore, for the next half hour we watched a pod of three Orca, their fins and water blows clearly visible.

The white flowers of Hebe Veronica elliptica were clearly visible as we cruised along the shore and Stilbocarpa robusta, a megaherb with rhubarb-like leaves was growing in the well bird-manured areas. Prickly shield ferns Polystichum vestitum, Blechnum durum and Asplenium obtusatum were plentiful filling gullies and under the canopy, Snares Crested Penguins appeared and disappeared as they negotiated their way through the ferns and megaherbs to or from the water’s edge. The penguins jumped in and out of the sea, standing in cluster groups watching us float by. Passing through deep wide caves and dipping into caverns and cornered wave-cut rock platforms our Zodiacs manoeuvred carefully for us all to take great photo opportunities.

We continued north to the legendary penguin slide, where a continual parade of Snares Crested Penguins traversed up and down a near vertical granite slope to the island's apex. We float at the bottom watching the penguins clamber up the rock face, or slip and slide down, diving at the last moment into the sea. Rafts of Snares Crested Penguins swam around the Zodiacs and others porpoised in and out of the water. Seals follow our Zodiacs, playing in the bubbles from the engines.

During our Zodiac cruise the endemic Snares Fernbird and black Snares Island Tomtits were briefly observed flitting around the treelines. Antipodean Albatross and Grey-headed Albatross flew overhead whilst lots of Fairy Prions and Diving Petrels could be seen on the granite rock structures, bobbing on the sea or diving for food. A Snares Island Snipe could also be heard calling from within the thick shore shrubs.

By 11:00 we are all back on board and the ships anchor was raised as we set a course south to the Auckland Islands, the rest of the day was spent at sea. This afternoon biosecurity checks took place, an important step for all to undertake before landing on any of the Subantarctic Islands.

With the ship swaying to and fro many retreated to their cabins early after dinner, there were a few seats spare in the dining room with some still finding their sea legs and choosing to not venture far from their berths. In the early hours the ship arrived into the calm waters of Port Ross.

Day 4: Tuesday 25th December
Enderby Island – CHRISTMAS DAY

The morning weather was overcast for Christmas Day but in the distance we could make out Sandy Bay. Breakfast was at 07:00 followed by a briefing on the day’s activities. At 08:15 we boarded Zodiacs with pack lunches and headed ashore. Landing on the south side of the beach, we made our way to the grass line above the beach, a lone sea lion greeted us unimpressed with our arrival, perhaps it was concerned we might be looking to share its Christmas feast. His watchful eye followed us as we made our way past with Sue our lecturer positioning herself at a safe distance between.

Gathering by the huts, we changed out of our gumboots ready for the day’s hiking, close by a Yellow-eyed Penguin was seen tucked under a bush. We split into two groups, the long and short walkers then set off, passing between the two streams which trickled out into the ocean as we made our way to the boardwalk. On this section of the beach Yellow-eyed Penguins leave the protected canopy of the island undergrowth where many have nests and make their way to and from the beach as they are heading out to fish or returning back to their nests later in the day. Both walking groups headed off across the boardwalk to the western cliffs, as we entered under a compact canopy of early red-flowering Rata coastal forest a Bellbird was sighted on a branch singing away. Following along the boardwalk the flora around us changed to lower tundra-like tops as we walked though shrublands of Dracophyllum, Ozothamnus and Weeping Mapou, the tussock Chionochloa antarctica and into meadows of megaherbs. There was plenty of Bulbinella rossii was visible, much had passed its best display this season, but some were still flowering bright yellow. There was good coastal herbs like Stilbocarpa polaris and the carrot relative Anisotome latifolia among the meadows, and plenty of Auckland Island Gentiana with their purple flowers. Sue’s botany eyes spotted sun orchids Thelymitra cyanea and the 2 headed orchid Waireia stenopetala low to the ground. Anaphalioides bellidioides (Everlasting daisy) a New Zealand native soft herbaceous densely mat-forming evergreen perennial was growing well in the moist soil.

We reached the end of the boardwalk at the northern cliffs, battling our way through strong gusts exceeding 50 knots to where we were able to observe Light-mantled Sooty Albatross, arguably the most beautiful of all the albatross. These were nesting on the cliff faces to the north of the island as also were many colonies of Auckland Island Shags. Along this ridge we walked past Plantago triantha dotted amongst the grass too. Afterwards the short walking group turned back along the boardwalk slowly making their way back to Sandy Bay. Albatross glided across the fields of megaherbs as we passed, the strong winds providing excellent flight opportunities as they dipped and glided.

The walkers who headed back to Sandy Bay early watched Hooker Sea Lions laying in their groups on the beach and New Zealand Sea Lion, there were many pups around. Beachmaster bulls gathered on the beach defending their harems from younger ambitious males. Sitting on the grassy embankment looking down over the beach, a small group of sea lions accompanied us scattered amongst the grass occasionally barking their presence to us and attempting to move closer. You certainly needed eyes in the back of your head; Stefan was engrossed in taking photos and did not notice the sea lion that crept up at speed behind him he was alerted to its presence by another expeditioner. The spectacle of sea lion battles, a pup being born kept us entertained for a long time as we sat and enjoyed our Christmas Day on Enderby Island.

The larger group headed off on a fantastic clockwise circumnavigation walk around the remainder of the island. Covering varied terrain of flat or gently rolling hills, pushing through a discrete tussock path against sheer cliffs and on into the Rata forest, this was a highlight and had a very different character to that of the open coastal regions. Hooker Sea Lion lay around in the tussocks and along sections of the coast. As we walked around the island we found Yellow-Eyed Penguins, Macquarie Island Cabbages, Banded Dotterels and Auckland Island Teal, and those at the front of the group were even treated to fleeting escapes of Auckland Island Snipe.

Auckland Island Pipit darted around not deterred by our presence, frequently perching on branches and in the grasses and meadows for photo opportunities. Both groups had good views of a local pair of New Zealand Falcon.

From 15:00 groups started to be shuttled back to the ship anchored in the calm bay, with the last group boarding around 5pm. Protected from the swells, the ship remained at anchor. The bar was busy pre dinner, and conversation was full of Christmas cheer, decorative lights hung across the bar, an assortment of festive hats, jewellery and clothing adorned some arriving for pre-dinner drinks, Roger’s penguin jumper made many laugh and we added some yellow to its eyes to celebrate the time spent with Yellow-eyed Penguins today, festive music quietly playing in the background.

A seven-course degustation for Christmas dinner was prepared by Damien and Bek, they had worked hard in the galley this afternoon bring together this lovely feast for us. There was plenty of conversation as the short and long groups shared their day’s experiences. Dessert included Christmas cake and pudding. Exhausted from a full day’s activities at Enderby Island many quickly collapsed into slumber this evening when their heads hit the pillows.

© A. Fergus
Day 5: Wednesday 26th December
Auckland Island, Hardwick - Enderby Settlement, Carnley Harbour

Early this morning the ship repositioned a short distance along the coast in preparation for this morning’s exploration of the Enderby Settlement at Hardwick. The Southern Rata could be seen in the distance along the coastline beginning to break crimson bud above the canopy.

All passengers attended a briefing at 07:00 and by 07:30 we were shuttling the short distance into Hardwick, also known as Enderby Settlement. The settlement grew out of blind optimism regarding the subantarctic region’s resource in whales and misleading reports about the suitability of these islands as a site for British colonisation. The first settlers arrived at Port Ross in December 1849, confident that the predictions by Charles Enderby of the English whaling firm Enderby & Son would offer great opportunities. The Enderby people were greeted by the Maori and Moriori settlers who had been occupying the Port Ross area already for seven years. When Charles Enderby arrived within weeks a small town stood at Erebus Cove in Port Ross where once there had been dense Rata forest. Accommodation including a small house for Enderby, cottages for families and barracks for single men, a store, workshop and chapel were built, it was envisioned it would grow into a prosperous settlement but the English were soon disheartened by the poor soils, unsettled climate and lack of whales. Unrest grew amongst the people as crops failed and lack of revenue was apparent. Finally in 1851 two special commissioners were dispatched to investigate the state of affairs at the settlement, and by August the next year despite protests from the Lieutenant-Governor the settlement was closed. The settlement had been one of the briefest colonial experiments in British history that lasted for two years and nine months.

Landing on a small rocky beach at Erebus Cove we made our way past two old buildings; a boatshed and the collapsed remains of a castaway depot, both built after the settlement was abandoned. In the Rata and Olearia lyallii forest behind the cove was evidence of house sites and pathways. It was a short walk to the cemetery established by the Enderby Settlement, the headstones were a poignant reminder of the difficulties experienced by settlers, and shipwrecked mariners who arrived a generation after the settlement had closed. Dotted within the small cemetery and around the board walk were gentians, and a small number of spider and 2 headed orchids were visible at ground level. A short walk under the Rata canopy occupied old road-way we arrived at the Victoria Tree, a carved inscription, now faint can still be seen at the base of this large old Rata tree which commemorates the visit in 1865 by an Australian government vessel, the Victoria, on a routine search for castaways.

As we assembled on the stony shore waiting for a Zodiac to shuttle us back to the ship for breakfast a single sea lion swam in the cove, watching our presence with interest it followed the Zodiacs and parked itself up on the rocks with a very watchful eye on those waiting to board the Zodiacs, it was particularly interested in Lisle but with his dominant solid stance Lisle was going nowhere! Finally the inquisitive marine mammal gave up the challenge, disappearing in the subantarctic cold water around the bay.

During breakfast the ship sailed down the coast to Carnley Harbour. Entering the harbour there were steep sheer cliffs facing us, this harbour is the remains of an ancient volcano. Overcast skies did not show the full grandeur of this beautiful remote harbour which is rich in history of shipwrecks; however from our cruise we could get a sense of its size. As we reached our furthest sailing point we turned and the misty clouds ahead gave way to rain as we sailed back out of the harbour and turned the ship and our attentions to the sea day ahead of us towards Macquarie Island.

Lisle and Dan were on the bridge joined by a small group of passengers keen to see and photograph birds that were passing by the ship during the morning and afternoon. Due to the sea swells it was difficult to view any cetaceans.

We joined Lisle in the lecture theatre for his ‘Introduction to Seabird Identification’ which covered off on a number of the species we had seen or were likely to see over the coming days. Mid-afternoon we also joined Dan for his ‘Introduction to Marine Mammals’, another informative lecture that would assist us ID some of the species we could see on this expedition.

The sea swell maintained good rhythm throughout the afternoon and long into the night as we sailed south through the Roaring Forties and Furious Fifties but that didn’t stop us celebrating three Boxing Day birthdays with a cake this evening at dinner and a fine rendition of Happy Birthday.

© A. Fergus
Day 6: Thursday 27th December
At Sea to Macquarie Island

The seas continued to rock the ship all day as we continued our passage south; in the library some passengers could be found downloading images and browsing through the library book collection. Many retreated to their cabins, catching up on sleep, reading or simply taking to their berths whilst the turbulent seas tossed us from side to side. Others were on the bridge with cameras and binoculars, the seas made it difficult to observe any marine life as wave after wave connected with the ships bow sending sprays of salty water across the forward deck. No lectures were held today due to the sea conditions but biosecurity checks took place at 3pm in the bar/library or lecture room.

Before dinner the bar opened, a small gathering of passengers lodging themselves into the comfy fixed seats around the bars edge. It wasn’t long before Rachael our Cruise Director could be heard announcing dinner, the chefs had worked against very difficult conditions today in the galley but once again produced a lovely evening dinner that despite the seas was well attended.

Day 7: Friday 28th December
Macquarie Island

When we woke up this morning we were positioned of Macquarie Island, a low fog encased much of the island. We started with an early breakfast, Alex had forewarned us that this would be a busy day; the forecast for the following day was questionable so we wanted to do as much today while weather conditions would allow.

Tasmanian Parks and Wildlife Service ranger Chris Howard was collected from Buckles Bay by Zodiac and soon joined us on board. It was an early start for Chris as Australian time difference meant he was 2 hours behind NZ time. Chris and Alex held a briefing in the lecture room explaining the day’s landings and providing some insight into life working on the island, its wildlife and fauna. Shortly afterwards we changed into our landing clothes and boarded Zodiacs. We landed stern-first at Buckles Bay between sets of big waves, scrambling onto the beach as fast as possible so the Zodiacs could get off before the next set arrived.

On shore Sue and Luke two others TASPAWS rangers waited for us and along with Chris guided us up to the viewing platform where we had great views of white-morph Southern Giant Petrels. Poa foliosa hid seals well with Pleurophyllum hookeri and Acacna minor dotted amongst the grassland as we made our way along the isthmus, past the Magnetic Exclusion Zone and onto the north coastal beach overlooking Cosray Rocks, the Gentoo Penguin colony was huddled together in groups along the beach or individuals stood dotted up along the grass area overlooking the beach, a few inquisitive ones headed our way to investigate their visitors. Down at the waterline Gentoos were fishing amongst the seaweed. The rain started to fall but this didn’t deter anyone from standing watching this spectacle, finally reluctant to leave we slowly made our way along the beach towards the Australian Antarctic Program Station. We were welcomed to their mess room with large smiles, we were all a little wet from rain shower but scones, jam and cream soon took over our thoughts, and a hot drink warmed us up. Some of us had our passports stamped, bought souvenirs or sent postcards from the Macquarie Island post office, which will apparently reach their recipients sometime in April. Afterwards we headed back along the gravel path passing scores of huge Elephant Seals slumbering amongst the tussocks; some were well hidden, whilst others sprawled out alongside the path – or across the path. A small number of King Penguins were standing in groups by the beach whilst others stood separately watching us watching them! We walked back along the Isthumus, stopping briefly at the digester, passing a rather large Elephant Seal positioned on the pathway who blocked our passage and had to be moved on quietly (and bravely) by Sue. We gathered on the beach waiting to head back to the ship for lunch, with rain still falling we boarded the Zodiacs on the beach and took the opportunity to cruise past a small Rockhopper colony near the base as we went back to the ship, Luke, Sue and Chris joined us too.

Over lunch the Spirit of Enderby repositioned to anchor off Sandy Bay, Royal Penguins could be seen swimming in the water porpoising around the vessel. As we set out for our afternoon ashore the sun came out, a great omen for our visit. The Zodiacs shuttled us 10 at a time, and as we got closer to shore many Royal Penguins could be seen on the rocks as we rounded into Sandy Bay. The beach and rocky headland was alive with wriggling elephant seal weaners, wrestling and barking sub-adults and groups of Southern Elephant Seals simply lying sardine-style on the beach, some looked like super-sized sardines! They raised their heads and snorted or had a bit of a joust, then they inevitably collapse back on top of each other, a friendly flipper over the rival. As we landed at Sandy Bay groups of Royal Penguins marched around or stood on the beach, many young could be seen moulting. Their rakish gold crests porpoised back and forth to and from the water all around us, higher up the hillside the smell of their colony could be experienced as we walked up to the observation platform, the sound of penguin vocalizations could be heard all around us, these calls apparently are individually identifiable, allowing mates to recognize each other and also their chick. The colony was alive with groups of creched chicks, adults marching to and fro to feed them, and desperate attempts to drive off marauding skuas.

King Penguins lined the beach as we pick our way pass and amongst them – none of them are at all bothered by these funny tall colourful penguins shuffling past them today with their cameras clicking away. Some approach to check the funny looking penguins out, others stand or lay obligingly for photos. The Kings dominate the beachline, at the far end there is a large colony of them clustered; we are not allowed amongst these – there is no elbow room for penguins, let alone humans!

What an extraordinary place and what a privilege to be here! The ship remained anchored off Sandy Bay overnight.

© L. Tough

Day 8: Saturday 29th December
Lusitania Bay cruise-by (south-east coast of Macquarie Island) and At Sea

Early this morning the ship cruised along to the southern end of Macquarie Island along past Lusitania Bay, the site of an estimated 500,000-pair strong King Penguin colony. Once the scene of mass slaughter penguins were thrown into giant pressure cookers (‘digesters’) and their fat rendered into barrels of oil. The digesters can now be seen rusting on the beach, surrounded entirely by breeding penguins. We were unable to land because winds were too strong but camera and binoculars were focused on the spectacle before us, small rafts of King Penguins could also be spotted dotted around the ship. The cloud cover obscured the higher levels across the island but slowly it lifted as the morning progressed. Before lunch we dropped the Rangers back to Buckles Bay, landing on the boulder beach by Zodiac between sets of large waves.

As lunch was underway Macquarie Island slowly disappeared into the distance as the ship turned north setting course for Campbell Island.

The afternoon sea pounded against the ships bow as the Furious Fifties did its best to challenge our hardworking chefs in the galley and expedition team around the vessel. Sue gave a lecture about The Snares later this afternoon. After dinner swells 8 to 10 metres rocked the vessel, most people were in their cabins and berths by then. The ship continued to cut through the Southern Ocean and sway late into the night, Captain Dimitry and his experienced officers are no strangers to these wild waters and negotiating a passage on the Spirit of Enderby,.

Day 9: Sunday 30th December
At Sea to Campbell Island

We continued our journey to Campbell Island; the sea was not letting up. Due to the conditions the lecture programme was postponed for the day and the bar/library was generally quiet. The Furious Fifties were giving us a good taste of the seas past explorers would have encountered on their journeys through these waters; we should remember that these ships would have been less comfortable than ours.

Biosecurity checks were completed late afternoon in the bar/library and lecture room. We had become well accustomed to moving around the ship in these turbulent seas as it swayed from side to side and the one hand for ship rule was not forgotten even if that meant two trips with larger gear loads to be checked.

Once again our chefs Damien and Bek produced a lovely dinner, we continued to be amazed at how they had managed to bring together the meal in turbulent seas, and how Olga and Yulia managed to deliver the plates safely to the tables as they balanced this way and that, it was a sight to watch.

Early to bed for many tonight but we knew that during the night we would enter the calmer waters of Perseverance Harbour and there would be respite from the relentless angry seas we were encountering on our passage from Macquarie Island.

© D. Brown
Day 10: Monday 31st December
Campbell Island - NEW YEARS EVE

We arrived in the early hours where the calm waters of Perseverance Harbour waited for us, after the last 36 hours it was welcomed by all.

At 08:30 we joined Alex in the lecture room for his presentation on Campbell Island, an introduction to the island’s history and biota, followed by a briefing describing our activities ashore at today. Campbell Island is New Zealand’s southernmost territory and lies 660 km south of Bluff, volcanic islands, there is much evidence of old peat erosion scars, volcanic rock and limestone formations from over the many million years. Half the group opted for the days walk to Northwest Bay and the others opted for a morning Zodiac cruise, followed by a walk up the boardwalk to the Col-Lyall Saddle.

After collecting packed lunches at 10:00 the Zodiacs transferred the Northwest Bay Walk passengers to the wharf at Beeman Base and Alex and Dr Steve set off for the days walk. Pushing through the tussocks, over ridges and around bays we were treated to the many landscapes of Campbell Island. The soft peat under foot cushioned by moss in places and surrounded by megaherbs and tussocks accompanied the journey as we climbed high to the field of megaherbs that appeared as the group moved across the top of the plateau and headed down into Northwest Bay. Among the tussocks Southern Royal Albatross sat, their feathers ruffled by the winds which are blowing across the undulated landscape. Winding our way down to Capstan Cove wading through thick peat and pushing through the scrub, we then wound our way back up the hillside to overlook Northwest Bay. Continuing around the side of Mt Dumas, the group stopped at the coastwatchers cave, then tracked down into Camp Cove to meet Dan with a Zodiac, with many smiling faces and a sense of achievement after this 10km walk the group made their way back to the ship at 7pm.

Launching the remainder of the Zodiacs the second group cruised the calm waters of the inner harbour, in Tucker Cove a pair of Antarctic Terns with two chicks sat upon a nest on a small rock at the water’s edge. A Campbell Island Teal could be seen on the shoreline eating carrion. Then we head further around the inlet past a couple of seals gliding through the rippled bay. We see the Sitka Spruce 'loneliest tree in the world' which was planted at Camp Cove in the early 1900s. There, an ambitious young sea lion bares its teeth, watching us disembark the Zodiacs it wasn’t long before it was heading in our direction at good speed, standing its ground testing our courage swiftly darting from one person to another making a number of attempts to move close to the passengers. Rachael stood firm guarding us from the inquisitive sea lion, a few of us wondered if she is feeling as brave on the inside as she looked on the outside, it was a very persistent sea lion! After viewing the tree we find our way through the grass and undergrowth back to the Zodiacs and continue our cruise. We passed Garden and Venus Cove on the way back to the ship where we could see endemic Campbell Island Shags at the shoreline. Returning to the ship to munch on our pack lunches as Alex had given the chefs a break from preparing a ship lunch today after the previous day’s mammoth efforts in the galley on the high seas.

At 2pm the Col-Lyall Saddle walkers were transferred back to the wharf, and guided by Rachael, Dan, Lisle and Sue the group passed by the unmanned and derelict buildings of the New Zealand met station, continuing on up through thick Dracophyllum and past large tussocks of Poa litorosa and Chionochloa antarctica. As we continued higher we were accompanied by numerous curious and Campbell Island Pipits. We moved out of the shrub zone and into the tussock zone where the spectacular megaherbs such as Pleurophyllum, Stilbocarpa and Anisotome were blooming, some Ross Lily Bulbinella rossii could still be seen in good flower, but many had just past their best. Ground orchids Aporostylis bifolia, Chiloglottis cornuta and Wairea stenopetala were spotted by our botanist Sue. As we rise into the tussocks numerous Southern Royal Albatross appear dotted on the hillside, we could appreciate their true size as we past quietly by, some were breeding very close to the boardwalk, as we climbed higher their stronghold breeding colony could be seen. The albatross sat amongst the tussock, patient and quiet. Almost everybody made it right to the end of the boardwalk at the western cliffs where the views out over Dent Island and the Southern Ocean were spectacular, clear blue skies and a strong wind allowed Southern Royal Albatross to swoop and glide around us, it was breath-taking. Ben, Hans and Sabrina saw a Snipe amongst the tussocks close to the Southern Royal Albatross colony. As the afternoon got later, we made our way slowly back to the landing site at Beeman Base for a waiting Zodiac and then back onto the ship. Michaela, Nicholas, Judy and Steve were fortunate to come across a Yellow-eyed Penguin on the boardwalk as they made their way back to wharf – they were in the right place at the right time.

Some hardy souls jumped off the gangway this evening into the cool Subantarctic waters of Perseverance Harbour for a quick dip. Then our day was rewarded by an excellent New Year’s Eve dinner. Afterwards most retreated to the bar, settling in for the New Year’s Eve celebrations waiting for 2019 to arrive. It was Jennifer’s birthday, as the cake arrived the bar burst into song to wish her Happy Birthday and shortly after that the countdown to New Year began. Glasses were filled to toast in the New Year, Auld Lang Syne was sung by some and glasses were raised to toast in the New Year.

A few took the opportunity afterwards to go outside whilst in the calm waters of Perseverance Harbour up onto the Monkeydeck to watch the New Year night sky, there was some discussion amongst those on deck as to if an aurora could be partially seen through the cloudy skies.

© L. Gwynn
Day 11: Tuesday 1st January
Campbell Island and At Sea to Bluff - NEW YEARS DAY

At 06:00 the Zodiacs departed with the Col-Lyall boardwalk walkers, this was the long walkers from yesterday who wanted to experience the magnificence of the albatross there that others had seen yesterday afternoon.

The morning outer harbour Zodiac cruise departed not long after, as the day began activity was already busy along the harbours southern water’s edge. Campbell Island Shags could be seen along the shoreline, Light-mantled Sooty Albatross on nests tucked into the undergrowth, one had a small chick. The sea lion tagging teams tent was seen in the tussocks, we quietly floated past in the early morning light. Mt Honey was partially cloud covered. A sea lion rookery was at the entrance to the harbour at Erebus Pt, we continued out of the harbour into choppier waters following the coastline where we found a small group of Eastern Rockhopper Penguins, we could see about 12 penguins, some were playing in a rock pool, whilst others were seen hopping across the rocks, once upon a time this colony would have been larger in size. Turning the Zodiacs back towards inner Perseverance Harbour we slowly made our way back into the calmer waters and along the northern coastline. There was a kelp forest along the shoreline but the water was very clear, large spider crabs could clearly be seen at the bottom and sea lions kept us company. Campbell and Southern Royal Albatross, Wilson’s Storm-Petrel and Cape Petrel were observed during the early morning cruise. As we returned to the ship the Col-Lyall walkers were seen in the distance crossing the ridge making their way back to ship too.

At 09:00 we raised the anchor and left Perseverance Harbour. We were preparing to push into northerly weather conditions as we made our way to Bluff. Breakfast was available in the dining rooms and as we rounded Erebus Pt at the harbour head the ship once again began its rhythmic rolling motion.

We sailed north following the coast line. Cossack Rock appeared within our sight and as we passed the rocky peninsula we are treated to the magnificent sight of Campbell Island Albatross and Grey-headed Albatross swooping and gliding around the ship, a raft of albatross ahead takes flight, an amazing sight as long wings lift from the seas surface. The albatross bank this way and that, closely passing the ship. We continue along the rugged coastline past North Cape and the ship heads north, next stop Bluff.

Throughout the day the ship sways back and forth, the now familiar roll of Spirit of Enderby. At 11:00 we join Roger in the lecture room where he shares the touching story of his search to photograph an Emperor Penguin. Later in the afternoon we join Lisle for a humorous insight into the life of a birder, the lecture was well attended many taking the opportunity to rest in the comfortable lecture room chairs, as we swayed from side to side the swells tried to lull us into a snooze, however Lisle kept our attention well and no one succumbed to the seas rhythm. Most of us left wondering if we were simply birdwatchers or might turn into twitchers, we had picked up some useful birding terms to start speaking like birders – thank you Lisle for the amusing journey into the life of a birder.

The bar was open for pre-dinner drinks, and dinner served at 19:30, some retired early to their cabins.

© A. Fergus
Day 12: Wednesday 2nd January
At Sea to Bluff

The ship continued to rock through the night. Breakfast was available from 08:30 this morning in the dining rooms, and at 10:30 we joined Dan in the lecture room for his presentation ‘Seventy degrees north to Seventy degrees South’. He takes us on a journey around the globe, elaborating on the many varied small ship expeditions which can be taken too many remote and beautiful places, capturing our imagination with amazing photos.

After lunch we finalised accounts with Rachael. At 15:00 Sue gave a lecture on her time at Raoul Island, providing insight into the Kermadec Islands which are the tiny emergent part of a chain of submarine volcanoes that define the Kermadec ridge. The subtropical, volcanic Kermadec Islands are the northernmost part of New Zealand and also visited by Heritage Expeditions on past voyages in this area.

At 17:00 we all gathered in the lecture room for a disembarkation briefing for Bluff from Alex, and the True Young Explorers scholarship recipients Ben and Elana briefly shared their thoughts from the voyage and what they would take away from the experience, and how they would continue to advocate for this region in the future. Lucy’s sea legs were better resting in her berth this afternoon. Finally recapping the highlights of the past two weeks the excellent photo slideshow prepared by Dan brought back many memories of our adventures on Galapagos of the Southern Ocean.

In the evening the bar was busy for one last time, as we all met to share stories of the trip and then off for our final dinner at 20:00. Damien and Bek provided a wonderful farewell meal and before everyone left the dining room the lights dimmed and a chorus of happy birthday was sung to Expedition Leader Alex who was presented with a delicious cake to celebrate his birthday on board today.

As the ship dropped anchor in the lee of Stewart Island shortly after dinner finished, many retreated to their cabins taking the opportunity to continue packing bags as the ship had stopped rolling before settling down for their last night’s sleep on board in calmer conditions.

Day 13: Wednesday 3rd January
Port of Bluff

At about 4am we could hear the anchor raise and the now familiar movement of the ship from side to side started again as Spirit of Enderby made her way across the Foveaux Strait to Bluff. Some woke early to watch us pick up the pilot at 05:30; the wind was strong as we sailed towards Port of Bluff. Day was just breaking, the sky a mixture of blue and overcast clouds as we docked at 06:00.

The ship was a buzz with activity early this morning as bags were prepared for disembarkation, custom formalities were completed and everyone gathered for the last breakfast feast. Outside the Port of Bluff had one final weather surprise for us with winds gusting across the wharf, we could have been at the northern cliffs on Enderby Island again if it was not for the very different surrounds. A rainbow shone bright in the distance across the harbours entrance.

As we disembarked fond farewells were shared between expedition staff and passengers before boarding the coach to Invercargill, many were returning to their homes but a small group were continuing their South Island adventures by extending the stay in Southland with a few days on Stewart Island, whilst a few others were also extending their time in New Zealand elsewhere.

Our sea legs would take a few days to adjust back to land legs fulltime after experiencing the sea swells we had encountered, we had been in ‘expedition mode’ from the off with an awareness of the weather elements and flexibility being at the for front of our trusty Expedition Leader Alex’s leadership as we explored each island.

Our photos and memories will now we shared with many. We remember our Zodiac cruise around The Snares with amazing sightings of the endemic Snares Crested Penguins. On Enderby Island at Sandy Bay the Hooker Sea Lions snoozed on the beach, whilst the Bull Sea Lions asserted their dominance, young pups gathered and new life was born. Yellow-eyed Penguin rushed back and forth to the beach, and stood in the grassy dunes watching our movements with the Spirit of Enderby back dropped behind them, and let us not forget the Rata forest canopy along the beautiful coastline. Macquarie’s birdlife was spectacular, and the magnificence of this island where penguins gather in immense colonies on the beaches, coastal terraces and slopes we will always remember. Then at Campbell Island there was our amusing encounter with the lone sea lion at Camp Cove, and the silence of the albatross colony gliding above us at Col-Lyall, while fields of megaherbs surrounded us on our walks. The sights, sounds, and smells of the Southern Ocean and the Subantarctic Islands are experienced by few, we are among the lucky ones, even the seas reminded us of the journeys old explorers would have encountered. Thank-you for sharing the journey and the places Heritage Expeditions visit year after year, watching those who experience it for the first time and to see it touch hearts the way it has ours for many years is special.