1862: Galapagos of the Southern Ocean 29 Nov 2018

Day 1: Thursday 29th November
Arrival at Dunedin

“Good Morning Good People!” Judd Hill our Expedition Leader introduced himself in our Dunedin hotel lobby with a beaming smile, a twinkle in his eye and an ungovernable mop of corkscrewed hair. His cheerfulness and optimism remained a feature the trip. He, Rachael Iverson-Brown Heritage Cruise Director, and ship's Doctor Konrad Richter welcomed, briefed and prepared us for embarkation tomorrow morning.

Day 2: Friday 30th November
Port of Dunedin, At Sea

Heritage expedition guides Chris Todd and Norm Judd arrived at our hotel at 07:00, checked in our luggage and sent it ahead to our cabins. We followed by bus 20 minutes later to where the Spirit of Enderby (officially registered as the Professor Khromov) was waiting at the wharf, its deep blue hull and white superstructure crisp in the morning light. We climbed the gangway, were directed to our cabins and had a short time to explore the ship before clearing passport control, as Macquarie Island is an Australian territory.

After a cuppa we went straight into an emergency briefing about evacuation procedures; how to get off and on the inflatable Zodiacs used for outings, how to use the life-jackets, and the protocols for quarantine procedures and behaviour around wildlife before landing at any of the Subantarctic Islands. This was followed by a lifeboat drill, which involved clambering into the lifeboats, closing the hatch and starting the motor: Not an experience to repeat unless you really have to.

Formalities over, most of us went up to the top deck to watch our departure from Otago Harbour, seeing Pied and Variable Oystercatchers and at Tairoa Heads; Northern Royal Albatross and a colony of nesting shags, their pecking-distance nests creating a geometric pattern on the steep hillside. Once in the open sea Dan a British naturalist, gave a lecture on the identification of seabirds in the Southern Ocean, leaving the audience convinced that it was at best a challenging business!

An hour before dinner was ‘bar time’ and a chance to start getting to know our fellow passengers. Bar time was followed by dinner time, tonight a starter followed by a choice of delicious salmon or lamb-rack for mains from our excellent New Zealand chefs Lance and Damien.

The sun set over our bow as we passed Rakiura / Stewart Island to our west, a lingering sunset lighting the sky deep orange until after 10pm.

Day 3: Saturday 1st December
The Snares and at Sea

We awoke to wind from an unusual north-east quarter and an amazingly flat sea for this area.

Snares (Pintado) Petrel, flew around the ship or settled in feeding ‘rafts’ nearby. A few of the endemic Snares Crested Penguins swam out to us and porpoised or preened themselves. A few Sooty Shearwaters, which bred here in huge numbers, cruised around, rotating from side to side, their wing-tips almost scratching the waves. But by and large, there was not enough wind for seabirds to get the lift they rely on for energy-efficient flying.

While the ship drifted we launched the Zodiacs in the lee (southern end) of the main island half way between Broughton Island and Alert Stack. As we headed for the island we saw a series of rocky granite cliffs ringed by bull kelp (Durvilleae antarctica), it’s long, buoyant leathery blades streaming out over the surface. The clifftops were fringed by white-flowering hebe shrubs (Veronica elliptica), backed in turn by low-growing tree daisies (Olearia lyalii, and Pachystegia stewartiae).

After passing through surging swells in the channel between Broughton Island and North East Island, we rounded South Point and heading up the eastern side of the island. There we idled the Zodiacs in closer to the rock faces to watch a group of Snares Crested Penguins hopping and scrabbling up exposed rocky slopes to their nests in the forest above. Nesting Antarctic Terns chittered from the cliffs above us. We carried on past Mollymawk Bay to Ho Ho Bay, where Red-billed Gulls sat on ledges, with large Black-backed Kelp Gulls perching on the promontories. In the mouth of a sea-cave 2 jet black Snares Tomtits fluttered about picking invertebrates off the white, lichen-encrusted cliffs. We carried on and entered the relative shelter of Boat Harbour behind Station Point, where the Department of Conservation has a small field hut. This area was ‘penguin central’, with numerous penguin ‘rafts’ at sea pruning, porpoising to and from the shore, bickering amongst the kelp, hopping up into the forest or simply standing quietly on the rocks.

In a quiet cove 3 metres above the tide line we saw the rhubarb-like Azorella robusta in flower, our first ‘megaherb’. NZ fur seals resting on rock ledges whilst the more active Hookers Sea Lions played, fought, and leaped out of the water near the Zodiacs.

It was such an unusually calm day that we decided to circumnavigate the main island, an activity that rarely presents itself: Around every point were towering granite cliffs cracked into dramatic shapes; huge swells sloshed 10-15 metres up the cliffs before receding to leave big patches of churned, azure and white water; beautiful bull kelp danced and swirled into patterns with the swell, its robust holdfasts and rubbery stalks dividing into floating, copper-coloured strap-like blades several metres long.

After lunch we carried out our first quarantine checks, which involved inspecting all the gear we planned to take with us onto the islands, vacuuming it, cleaning it of any seeds or dirt and getting it checked off by a staff member. The object is to make sure that we bring nothing to the islands capable of either spreading or causing disease. It was surprising just how many exotic seeds came out of Velcro sleeve-adjustors and the webbing of backpacks.

In the afternoon Chris Todd gave a lecture about the New Zealand (or Hooker’s) Sea Lion, the world’s rarest and it’s conservation.

After dinner we had a ‘wildlife roundup’ in the bar; a summary of the birds and marine mammals we have come across in the course of the day.

Day 4: Sunday 2nd December
Enderby Island

The Spirit of Enderby dropped anchor in the calm waters of Port Ross (or Sarah’s Bosom as 19th century sailors referred to it), at 01:00, giving us with a calm tail end to our night’s sleep. Breakfast was served at 06:30, followed by a briefing about our landing. We picked up a packed lunch and by 08:30 we were in the Zodiacs heading to Sandy Bay beach at Enderby Island, our first landing! We landed in a tiny cove incised into the basalt inter-tidal shelf, from where we clambered over the nose of the Zodiac into ankle deep water amongst massive strands of leathery bull kelp. Twenty or thirty sea lions were scattered along the beach, contesting territory while they waited for the females to arrive. One or two growled and lunged at us as we crossed the beach, but without much conviction. Behind the western end of the beach lie 2 cabins, currently unoccupied, usually used for researching the New Zealand Sea Lion and Yellow-eyed Penguin, which have both declined dramatically in recent decades.

We divided ourselves into ‘longer’ and ‘shorter’ walkers; the latter crossed the island via the boardwalk and returned the same way to the beach before exploring the beach hinterland. The former crossed the island via the boardwalk then headed on a circuit around the eastern two thirds of the island. At the beginning of the boardwalk we entered a low forest of rata (Metrosideros umbellata) and turpentine scrub (Dracophyllum). As we climbed, the forest gave way to low shrubland, then tussock and herbfield as the island became more wind-exposed. The megaherbs were flowering prolifically: First the huge greeny-yellow spherical flower-heads of Macquarie Island Cabbage (Azorella polaris), then the bright yellow tubular flowers and strap-like leaves of Ross’s Lily (Bulbinella rossii), followed by the spectacular mauve globes of the Campbell Island Carrot (Anisotome latifolia). Auckland Island Dotterel (similar to their mainland counterparts but completely fearless) probed for grubs amongst the tough Astelia cushion plants and Auckland Island Pipits fed close by, oblivious to our presence. The distant white specks we could see on the hillsides were on closer inspection nesting Southern Royal Albatross. On the wild north-facing side of the island we looked out from the cliff tops to a foggy sea-scape, occasional Auckland Island Shags flying low over the water. The ‘circumnavigators’ headed east and soon entered aromatic fields of mauve and yellow megaherbs. We viewed a Light-mantled Sooty Albatross nest on the coastal cliffs, all subtle gradations of grey and brown, with a striking arc of white feathers just behind the eyes.

Steady rain set in with a gentle northerly wind. We passed Giant Petrels with chicks, giving them a wide birth to avoid disturbance. Red-crowned Parakeets fed on the ground amongst mauve and white Gentianella or perched on flowering Hebe bushes (Veronica lyalii). Black and white Auckland Island Tomtits flitted about, landing on sticks or megaherb flowers. A group of 5 Yellow-eyed Penguins ambled toward us along the cliff-tops.

We stopped for lunch at Derry Castle Reef, the site of a shipwreck in March 1887, from which only 8 of the 22 crew survived. A small bronze plaque marks the site. A testosterone-fuelled sea lion travelled about 200 metres across the reef and up the grassy bank to pay us a visit, occasionally lunging and bellowing at us before losing interest and ambling off to confront another sea lion. After lunch we climbed over a low spur and watched parakeets before dropping down to where a small creek entered the bouldery surf beach. Hardy Auckland Island Shags dived just beyond the surf-line. Snipe flew up in front of us several times in a flurry of wings before disappearing back into the tussocks. We weaved our way in and out of the sea lions to minimise confrontations, before climbing up one the coastal headlands though thick tussocks and low shrubs. Auckland Island Shags flew along the cliff-line, some carrying tufts of nest-building vegetation trailing from their bills, their crests and the bright magenta rings around their eyes very distinctive. We visited a small shag colony, the juveniles naively walking towards us and the adults ignoring us altogether, before dropping down to Eastern Bay, where there were sea lions, a young female elephant seal and a lone NZ Fur Seal yearling.

At the south-east corner of the island we entered the ‘enchanted’ rata forest: The juxtaposition of elements combined to create an almost dream-like scene: Gnarled and twisted rata trunks under a low, wind-sheared canopy; their bright crimson flowers in the canopy attracting Bellbird, Tui and bright green Red-crowned Parakeets. The forest floor was bright green moss interspersed with deep green rhubarb-like Azorella, smart black and white Tomtits flitting about amongst them.

We re-emerged on the coast and followed the rocky shoreline back to Sandy Bay, observing the Auckland Island Flightless Teal, pipits fossicking the tideline, shags nesting in the cliffs, giant petrels, and skua. After some heavy going through thick tussocks and shrubs, we were back at the eastern end of Sandy Bay, where we took a high detour to avoid the numerous Yellow-eyed Penguins. Back on the beach most of the large male sea lions were lying quietly, apparently exhausted by their constant battles. A group of 6 Yellow-eyed Penguins headed to the surf, looking warily in all directions before making a dash across the beach between sleeping sea lions and into the surf. On the way back to the ship we cruised along spectacular kelp-lined columnar basalt cliffs before returning for a very welcome dinner while the captain repositioned there ship.

For the shorter walkers we enjoyed an exceptionally productive few hours birding along the boardwalk, the northern cliffs and the grassland behind Sandy Bay. It was a great chance to find some of Enderby’s endemic and range-restricted species including the Auckland Island Tomtit, Auckland Island Banded Dotterel, Yellow-eyed Penguins, Auckland Island Teal, Auckland Island Snipe and most surprisingly of all a fine pair of New Zealand Falcons. The latter proved incredibly showy, clearly vigorously defending a territory, the larger female slightly paler and more heavily barred whilst the smaller male a darker and more streaked individual. The snipe proved amazingly obliging in the end with an adult furtively working its way through the grass tunnels and posing for all to see well. All in all it was a highly relaxing and amazingly successful few hours for the short walkers.

Immediately after dinner we hopped back into the Zodiacs to look for Rockhopper Penguins amongst the giant boulders lining the northern outer coast of Musgrave Inlet. We were in luck, although they were generally much easier to hear than see. We headed across to the southern side of the bay where we entered through an archway into an arena created by a collapsed cave, deeply serene, clear water overhung with huge stalagmites of moss-encrusted tree roots from the rata forest above. After exploring the still-intact cave next to it, we returned to the ship, where a cheese platter was served in the bar; a pleasant finale to a wonderful day.

© C. Todd
5: Monday 3rd December
(Main) Auckland Island

“Good Morning good people! If you want to see the heads as we enter Carnley Harbour, this would be a good time to get up.”

The headlands rose from sea-cliffs to steep, tussock-covered hills, their tops disappearing up into low cloud. Up ahead of the ship the hills were clearer, with the fog apparently confined to the outer coast. After breakfast we ferried by Zodiac to Tagua Bay, the site of a coastwatcher’s hut built to monitor ‘enemy’ shipping during WWII. We were greeted by the musical notes of Bellbird and Tui, and the huffing of a testosterone-charged sea lion. There were signs of pig-tracks and rooting all along the beach.

We climbed up through Rata (Metrosideros) and Dracophyllum forest. Some of the rata trees near the bottom looked truly ancient, their branches drooping right down to the ground before rising back up into the canopy. At the derelict coast-watchers’ accommodation hut, we took a break while Chris explained the history, natural history and biogeography of the site. The huts were occupied by young men during World War II, whose job was to keep a look-out for enemy shipping. In the event there was none, but some of the expedition members made the most of their time there to study the plants, animals and natural history of the island. A number went on to become prominent New Zealand scientists and naturalists, perhaps most notably Robert Falla. We carried on up to the actual lookout, well concealed behind trees but still commanding good views of the harbour. It had been well conserved by the NZ Department of Conservation.

Alongside the track we saw five different species of orchids flowering, with tiny sundews (Drosera) in flower amidst the cushion plants (Astelia) just above the tree line.

Due to feral cats and pigs, the diversity and number of birds in the forest is much reduced. The New Zealand government is currently studying the feasibility of eradication. We returned to the ship two hours later, Judd being given a spirited send-off by the resident sea lion.

After lunch we had over 70 knots of wind in Carnley Harbour, which ripped the surface of the sea into clouds of spray. Thousands of Sooty Shearwaters appeared out of nowhere and streamed past the ship, flying so smoothly and effortlessly through the gale that they seemed to be in slow motion.

We carried on towards the head of North Arm, but the gale-force wind and poor visibility prevented us from reaching the site where the crew of a German ship the Erlangen cut Rata trees at the outbreak of World War II to stoke her boilers so they could sail to neutral South America and evade capture.

In the late afternoon Kevin Hague, CEO of Forest and Bird, supported by Department of Conservation observer Chrissie, gave a lecture on New Zealand’s Island Predator Eradications, including the national goal to be predator-free by 2050.

© Heritage Expeditions
Day 6: Tuesday 4th December
At Sea

The day dawned significantly better than expected with clear skies and a light wind helping us on our way to Macquarie Island. Around us were ever present albatrosses with Southern Royals cruising effortlessly around the ship, their immense wingspan becoming apparent as they came close. In amongst them smaller White-capped Albatrosses also followed our wake and a majestic Gibson’s Wandering also circled the ship. Antarctic Prions, Sooty Shearwaters and Black-bellied Storm-Petrels also approached the ship for a closer look. By early afternoon the sea had flattened right out giving some superb reflections as the albatrosses glided by.

Our progress was swift and amazingly our arrival at Macquarie occurred during the evening (as opposed to the expected late night). The weather had deteriorated slightly with a prevailing westerly wind picking up but this did nothing to dampen the excitement of all onboard as the distinctive silhouette of ‘Macca’ loomed and our first groups of Royal and King Penguins porpoised away from the ship. As we enjoyed the emerging scene of rugged coast and abundant wildlife we suddenly realised there were at least three Orcas slowly moving along the coast, and by the looks of the attendant giant petrels and albatrosses they had recently made a kill. As the light faded we reluctantly returned to our cabins eagerly anticipating the following day’s landings.

Day 7: Wednesday 5th December
Macquarie Island, Sandy and Lusitania Bays

With the ship running two hours ahead of the local Australian time here at Macca we had to hold off on a super early start but as soon as the rangers were up and ready Judd, Dan and Chris headed inshore to drop our AAD passenger, Mel, off and pick up our four Rangers for the next couple of days; Chris, Luke, Annie and Danielle. Once onboard we were headed south to Sandy bay, a shelter half-moon bay 4 miles south of the research station. With blue skies and a warming sun we headed ashore for what was to be an undoubted highlight of the voyage. Pulling into the sheltered black sandy bay we were greeted by thousands of animals. Sleepy Elephant Seal pups, known as Weaners at this age, adorned the beach like polished rocks. In between them Royal and King Penguins plodded by in an ungainly manner occasionally stopping to inspect a seal or peck at a passing comrade. Brown Skuas and giant petrels lurked and prowled for something to scavenge on or perhaps a weak or sick animal to predate. Everywhere we looked there was something happening.

Once ashore everyone was free to roam along the beach, trying as hard as possible not to disturb any of the wildlife. This is a place to sit and watch and let the drama unfold around you. To the north of the landing is a ‘small’ King Penguin colony of several thousand birds. Here we enjoyed the interactions between courting pairs just starting the breeding cycle whilst giant brown fluffy chicks looked particularly incongruous compared with the sleek grey, black, white and orange of the adults. These youngsters are on the verge of moulting out into a sea-worthy plumage. At the southwest end of the beach Finch’s Creek was a congregation ground for moulting and bathing penguins, many simply standing in the cool water. At the back of the beach a boardwalk led up the hill to a massive Royal Penguin colony consisting of around 20,000 pairs. Many of these had small black chicks tucked in underneath their bellies in rather nondescript stone nests. Each nest is perfectly placed at beaks length from the next nearest neighbours, and be warned any penguin that should stray within that distance as multiple sharp beaks lie in wait to help it on its way up or down the colony.

Undoubtedly one of the main highlights was the Elephant Seal weaner encounters. These adorable pups pepper the beach basking in the sun, occasionally opening big doey eyes to watch as we walked past, a few however are a bit more confident. It’s these that provided many smiles and chuckles as they slowly wormed their way over to us sniffing, snorting, belching, farting all the way before dropping their heads down on our legs. Some nuzzled gumboots and bags, others tried to mouth our legs, a few even came close to getting a kiss! There’s not a lot not to love about these beautiful animals though its hard to believe that at least some will grow into monstrous, smelly, scarred and bleeding males!

We headed back to the ship for lunch, a chance to take in what a phenomenal morning it had been and recharge the batteries (literally and metaphorically) before heading back to Sandy Bay for seconds in the afternoon. This was another great chance to reabsorb the sights from the morning, catch up on things we may have missed and simply soak in all the action. Watching the penguin coming and going over the beach and through the breaking waves provides a never ending source of entertainment as they duck and dive, waddle and trip, some expertly enter the breakers, others get completely totaled by the surf!

As if we hadn’t seen and done enough during the day, over dinner Judd and Captain repositioned the ship south to the southern end of the island off Lusitania Bay. With the sun dipping behind the island we set off in five Zodiacs towards the coast and the vast colony of King Penguins. Here we slowly cruised along the shoreline savouring the sights and sounds (maybe not so much the smells) of 100,000+ Kings, a spectacular scene, atmosphere, experience even. The shore topography and their moulting behaviour meant that at points in the colony large ribbons of orange and black nestled tightly together as birds faced the sea whilst the majority of the colony appeared grey-black as they stood back-on to us.

© Heritage Expeditions
Day 8: Thursday 6th December
Macquarie Island (Buckles Bay)

In stark contrast to yesterday today was a proper Macca day, low cloud, light drizzle and a brisk westerly breeze. Shortly after breakfast we started our Zodiac shuttles ashore onto Buckles Bay at the north end of Macquarie and close to the research base. A moderate swell was breaking on the shore so timing was everything. The Zodiacs backed into the beach and everyone shuffled off the pontoons and up the bouldery beach just before the next set would come through. The Zodiacs each managed to come and go avoiding the larger waves, not so Chris and Judd who were stationed in the frigid water in waders/dry suits to hold the Zodiacs, both of whom were flattened by larger waves; dedication to getting everyone ashore safe and as dry as possible.

Once ashore we split into groups to be guided by the rangers around the isthmus, the low narrow section of land housing the research station as well as most of the wildlife. A series of steps took us to the top of the razorback with views north over the bays and to the station. Below us waves crashed into the beaches and young male Elephant Seals practiced sparring at the waters edge. Small groups of King Penguins peppered the shore line whilst Northern and Southern Giant Petrels, and Light-mantled Sooty Albatrosses cruised the slopes in the updrafts. Working our way around the isthmus we also visited the Gentoo Penguin colony on the western beach where many of the chicks were virtually independent but still looking highly endearing. Once again we had some amazingly close encounters with Elephant Seal weaners whose inquisitive nature bought them lolloping across the shore to those who sat and watched. Just offshore a small island was home to a highly active colony of Macquarie Island Shags all actively rebuilding nests after a storm earlier in the year had cleared all the old ones away.

The rangers divulged a wealth of knowledge about the island, the station and the work that is being undertaken as well as providing a fascinating insight into living in the Subantarctic. Our visit culminated with a hot cuppa and scone (complete with jam and cream!) from the mess, a much needed warmer on a damp, cool day. Many headed out to see the release of the met weather balloon following which we slowly made our way back to shore and started the shuttles back to ship.

After lunch in the lee of the island the Captain set a course for Campbell Island and we waved goodbye to the amazing Macca; an island which had delivered more than we could possibly have hoped for. For most the afternoon was spent catching up on sleep, downloading thousands of images and generally relaxing. For those up on the bridge a smattering of albatrosses including Black-browed and Southern Royal came in to check out the ship.

© Heritage Expeditions
Day 9: Friday 7th December
At Sea to Campbell Island

After all the excitement over the last couple of days todays sea day provided some much needed downtime. Once again the weather was on our side and a light tail wind helped us on our way, not only speeding up the journey but providing some good conditions for people to enjoy the sea scrapes.

The day was punctuated with lectures as well as making sure that once again we all cleared our biosecurity checks before making land fall tomorrow back in New Zealand territory. Sometime during the night the swell ceased and we had entered the blissful shelter of Perseverance Harbour, Campbell Island. What would tomorrow bring…

Day 10: Saturday 8th December
Campbell Island

Someone on this voyage is clearly an incredibly serendipitous person as the day dawned beautifully calm and clear, exceptional conditions for an island that receives rain on over 300 days a year and gusts of over 50knots on the majority of days!

Twenty of us got up early on a brilliant, almost windless morning, embarked on two Zodiacs at 0800 and motored up Perseverance Harbour to Tucker Cove for a walk to the other side of the island led by Chris. After exchanging our gumboots for walking boots we set off on a poled route up the hill through low, spiky Dracophyllum shrubland, with spongy Sphagnum moss underfoot. We stopped often to admire gentians, black-eyed daisies, beak orchids, cushion plants (Phylacne) with tiny white flowers, and everlasting daisies (Hell’s Bells – Anaphalioides bellidioides).

Antarctic Terns screeched overhead to warn us away from (and alert us to) their colony nearby. Just below the summit ridge the megaherbs grew and flowered in profusion, made even more exotic by the enormous white albatrosses nesting amongst them. We sat on the ridge to admire the view: the craggy tops of Dumas to our south, the magnificent limestone cliffs defining Northwest Bay to our west, and Dent (as in ‘tooth’) Island to our NW. We descended the limestone cliff-tops to Northwest Bay. We heard snipe calling and at one stage flushed one out, its striped body almost invisible against the dead fern-leaves. The last section of descent was a scramble and slide down through head-high tussocks, ending in a creek-bed to the rocky shoreline, where a big sea-lion hushed to acknowledge our presence. A Campbell Island Shag was fishing near the rocks and a Campbell Island Teal fossicked for small crabs amongst the kelp. After an early lunch on a flat rocky terrace, we climbed up a steep track through tall tussock and Dracophyllum. We continued up an old line of fence posts (from sheep-grazing days) and back onto the tussock-clad tops. Southern Royal Albatross were nesting every 100 metres or so, their white feathers in stark contrast to the dull browns and yellows of the tussock. Many were still building their nests, with a combination of grass, moss and peaty mud.

We eventually descended a long spur, past a beautifully sheltered cave on an outcrop surrounded by windswept shrubs, before dropping down through Dracophyllum shrubland to Garden Cove; muddy, tired but very happy. Judd arrived by Zodiac and ferried all but 2 of us across to the start of the boardwalk to climb up to Col-Lyall; a very full and beautiful day.

For the remainder of the passengers what lay ahead proved to be a first, something of an epic mission and very much in-keeping with Judd’s ability to continually push the boundaries of whats possible on these expeditions. Heading off with two full tanks of fuel the four Zodiacs headed out down Perseverance Harbour and passed a small Sealion rookery. Here an animal in the water gorged itself on a large fish attended by two very obliging Wilson’s Storm-Petrels. Rounding the corner a residual swell surged onto the cliffs rebounding to create a confused sea. A New Zealand Fur Seal and pup graced one of the ledges and above the group Light-mantled Sooty Albatrosses became increasingly obvious with around 50 pairs noted in total. Once into Sweetwater Bay the swell dropped away and the water calmed leaving us to cruise north passed large caves, cascading waterfalls, alongside stunning columnar basalt and luxuriant ledges adorned with flowering megaherbs. Out in the bay a melee of Cape and Giant Petrels and a few Wilson’s Petrels fed over what had clearly been a kill at some point. Onwards the group pushed, now North Cape in full view and as we passed Cossack Rock the distinct silhouettes of albatrosses over the far headland became apparent. As we neared lines of white dots slowly morphed into birds and further into an orderly mass of Campbell and Grey-headed Albatross all sitting aloft their ‘dog-bowl’ nest (as Michael aptly described it). Birds wheeled and cruised overhead, adults on the banks whined and brayed, bright honey-coloured eyes of the Campbells glaring down at us. The Grey-headed Albatross appeared more retiring, preferring the edges of the colony and under the Dracophyllum at the top of the slopes. As far as we know no other expedition has made it this far and what a spectacle had greeted us. At this furthest point we slowly worked our way back down the coast exploring inlets and caves before finally pushing back to the ship for lunch.

Whilst the Northwest Bay walkers tucked into their packed lunch we enjoyed a hearty meal aboard the Spirit of Enderby before shuttling back ashore at Beaman huts. The afternoons’ activities involved a stroll 3km up the boardwalk to Col Lyall the home to a number of breeding Southern Royal Albatrosses. With glorious blue skies and virtually no wind many were down to t-shirts, truly bizarre out here. The scent of the Dracophyllum permeated the air sweetly and as we advanced uphill this was replaced by the flowering Megaherbs, namely the Plurophyllum, Anisotome and Bulbinella’s. Tiny Orchids flowered alongside the tracks where Campbell Island Pipits fed without care at our passing. As we neared the top of the boardwalk a huge female Royal Albatross startled us from between the tussocks, followed by another and yet another. Most showed an exceptionally placid nature, not even opening an eye when the boardwalk passed within a metre of them, what a world to live in where you have no predators and no need to be suspicious of a passing creature twice your size. It is rare that conditions permit the group to relax back at the top of the walk but today all were able to soak in the stunning view down to Northwest Bay and watch the Royal Albatrosses whoosh by, cruising the landscape like a giant playground; true masters of the air. It’s tough to beat this place on a day like today.

Amazingly the Northwest Bay walkers still had energy in their legs when they arrived at their pickup point and many decided to add an extra 6km to their already 12km walk by ascending the board walk. By the time most were leaving the albatrosses had just started to come in to start their gamming, a form of display by subadult birds looking to establish territories in future years.

Amazingly not only did James and Konrad witness this stunning display but both had birds come up to them and start displaying! A truly exceptional end to a remarkable day on Campbell Island. The last Zodiac departed for the ship just after 1900 with everyone welcome to see a hefty dinner after such an action packed day. That evening we received a lecture; the “French Transit of Venus and the Search for the Frenchman’s Grave” by Norm Judd.

© C. Todd
Day 11: Sunday 9th December
Campbell Island

The day dawned overcast but slightly warmer than the previous. A diffused light held promise for ardent photographers. Ahead was a day for those still wishing to test their energy levels; we could chose to walk again on the boardwalk beyond the Col Lyall Saddle overlooking Northwest Bay or a climb to the summit of Mount Honey, the highest feature on Campbell Island at 560m or, for the enthusiasts wanting to see wildlife at sea level, a Zodiac cruise around the Perseverance Harbour shoreline.

Twelve of us were up with our guide Chris for a 05:30 continental breakfast to climb Mt Honey, the highest point on Campbell Island. As we took the Zodiacs around to Garden Cove, a soft golden light suffused the tussock-clad hills and calm waters of the harbour. A young male sea lion met us on the muddy shore and danced around, wanting to play. Another male 3 times bigger torpedoed in to check us out, but seemed content just to watch us. We climbed up through Dracophyllum forest; spaghnum moss underfoot with 4 species of tiny ground-orchids growing through it. A pair of Campbell Island Snipe, which look and sound a bit like miniature kiwis, appeared and trotted along the track ahead of us. Since rats were eliminated from the island 17 years ago, snipe have spread from their last refuge on the tiny island of Jacquemart, across the whole island. We clambered on up steepening tussocky slopes, past gigantic Southern Royal Albatross sitting on or building nests: They are the original sod-house builders, assembling a combination of tussock and peat into the shape of a giant dog-bowl and tramping it down with their beaks to firm it up before laying an egg. The males come in first to make a start and show themselves willing. Then the females arrive and make it properly and in earnest. In one of last year’s empty nests we found 4 big long-liner fish-hooks, complete with severed traces. Higher still, we looked down over the smoothed glacial valley to Six Foot Lake, out to Monument Harbour, Jacquemart Island and a rock-stack impossibly slender and high, like a giant finger. The tussocks gave way to masses of ‘megaherbs’, some a metre across and a metre high; flowering mauve, magenta, lilac and yellow. After a quick group photo on the rocky summit in biting wind and mist, we retreated to the lee of the summit for chocolate and nuts before picking our way back down between the rocks and megaherbs, well pleased with our morning.

The 11 board walkers to Col Lyall set off at 08:30 and most who wanted to see arrived at the saddle around 09:15 (we had instructions to start making our return no later than 10am) and so had a good amount of time to take in the magnificent, wide-open valleys and the ocean’s metallic blue expanse. We were mindful of the lowering cloud on Mt Azimuth and Mt Fizeau and worried that we would become mist-bound but the cloud stayed put and we enjoyed the vibrant colours of the Bulbinella rossi, Pleurophyllum crinniferum and an occasional Campbell Island Carrot Anisotome latifolia before making our way back down the hill and a most welcome lunch aboard.

For the remainder of us we set out up Perseverance Harbour on a Zodiac cruise. First stop was a large Hooker’s Sea Lion rookery with around 100 animals jostling for space. In the waters next to us several animals came close to inspect the Zodiacs whilst Campbell Island Shags looked on in a perplexed manner. Further down the harbour we had an outstanding encounter with some Light-mantled Sooty Albatrosses breeding just metres above our heads. As one bird cruised by, the others on their ledges brayed out a call to them, flinging their heads back and inflating their chests in the process. Out at the mouth of the harbour a colony of shags clung to the cliffs, the swell rolled in and a single New Zealand Fur Seal held its ground on a rocky ledge. We ventured back inshore and towards Beaman huts where a couple of Campbell Island Teal obliged by foraging along the shoreline. Arriving at the huts a few keen birders disembarked with Dan in search of the snipe but sadly drew a blank whilst the remainder headed on further into the harbour to check out the Loneliest Tree and Garden Cove.

By late morning all were back onboard and tucking into a well deserved lunch following which the Captain upped anchor and sailed out of Perseverance Harbour and north. Once out of the 12 nautical mile marine reserve limit we proceeded to do a very small amount of chumming (chopping up just four fresh fish for the following seabirds. This resulted in some stunning views of Campbell and Southern Royal Albatrosses as well as White-chinned Petrels. In total twelve species of tubenose (seabirds) came into the back of the ship during the chumming period, quite exceptional. The remainder of the afternoon was spent enjoying the seabirds and relaxing onboard.

That evening our guide Norm gave a lecture “Lady of the Heather Hut”, which was a sometimes light-hearted, sometimes serious look at graves on Campbell Island.

© Heritage Expeditions
Day 12: Monday 10th December
At Sea

This morning after breakfast, Judd gave us a briefing on what to expect when we go through the Customs part of tomorrow as we arrive in Bluff Harbour at the end of our expedition.

At 11:30, Moshe gave us an intriguing lecture on the natural distribution of plant forms throughout the world and the zonal similarities between altitude and latitude.

At 11:30 Dan spoke to us in the lecture room about Heritage Expeditions and their other voyages from the Ross Sea to Wrangel Island spanning just about every biome the Pacific, Southern and Arctic oceans have to offer.

The afternoon culminated in settling accounts (interrupted by seven Dusky Dolphins that came in for a bow ride) and was followed by the final recap and presentation before a sumptuous final dinner and cheese board.

In the evening we came to anchor in the lee of Stewart Island in preparation for disembarkation the following morning.

Day 13: Tuesday 11th December
Bluff

All passengers disembark at Bluff at 08:00 after an amazing and successful voyage.