1860: Birding Down Under 11 November 2018

Day 1: Sunday 11th November 2018
Arrival into Invercargill

The first day of the expedition saw everyone congregate in the Kelvin Hotel, Invercargill where Expedition Leader Judd Hill joined the group for a welcome dinner along with Cruise Director Rachael Iveson-Brown, Ornithologist Dan Brown and Head of Hotel department, Heidi Dohn. It was a chance to meet fellow guests, catch up with past acquaintances from previous voyages and listen to the plans for the coming expedition.

Day 2: Monday 12th November 2018
Curio Bay and at sea

The coach met the group outside the hotel and departed eastward at 0900 heading for Curio Bay. The journey tracked along parallel with the coast through agricultural land before heading south at the west edge of the Catlins to the large protected Curio Bay, a sandy, rocky isthmus bounded by the turbulent ocean on one side and the more serene Porpoise Bay to the north and east.

We arrived at the newly built Curioscape Interpretive Centre at 1015. Here guests had the choice of exploring the centre or heading straight out in search of birds and marine mammals. A few enjoyed the state-of-the-art facilities at the centre and all the information it divulged about the area, its history and its wildlife. Others went in search of elusive Yellow-eyed Penguins along the ocean cliff edges. Here the trail took you to a lookout above a remarkable petrified forest on the shore, the Pacific Ocean surging in onto the rocky coast. There was also an option to explore an area of native forest which held species such as New Zealand Fantail, Tui, Bellbird and Grey Warbler. The highlight for many though were the seven Hector’s Dolphins which frequented Porpoise Bay. Here they gave great views as they cruised along at the back of the surf line occasionally surfing in on the larger breaks. After a great lunch at the centre we boarded the coach and headed back to Invercargill, pausing briefly by the estuary to enjoy Royal Spoonbill and Pied Stilt.

Back at Invercargill we collected the final few passengers who had opted to stay in town and then drove the 30 minutes south to Bluff and the start of our expedition. A quick check by the port authorities and customs and we were through the port gates and boarding the Spirit of Enderby (or Professor Khromov as she’s technically known), our home for the next 18 days. Judd proceeded to complete all the necessary briefings and drills before the ship cast off at 1800 and made her way out of the harbour and into the Fouveux Strait.

We immediately encountered a few new birds including Little Penguins and Black-billed Gull in the harbour, Tuis in the harbour entrance scrub and once out into the strait Sooty Shearwaters. Further out still and the first albatrosses started to appear including Salvin’s and White-capped Albatross, whilst Fairy Prions and Cape Petrels also made their first appearances. We settled down later in the evening to our first meal onboard followed by the start of the daily bird log up in the bar library.

Day 3: Tuesday 13th November 2018
Snares Islands/At Sea/Stewart Island

As dawn broke we were motoring towards the Snares Islands through a westerly swell. Over the horizon these pristine wildlife havens emerged getting ever closer until we found ourselves in the welcome lee of the islands. Our first Buller’s Albatrosses cruised the bay and Cape Petrels whirled around the ship. Following breakfast we launched five Zodiacs and headed close into shore along the eastern side of the island. It wasn’t long before one of the Zodiacs picked up a pair of Snares Tomtits, quickly followed by a Snares Fernbird, the former furtively foraging over the rocks and under hebe bushes. We hugged the coast tracking north in and out of gullies, through thin passages, in and out of large caves, and into sheltered bays. Wildlife abounded. New Zealand Fur Seals and Hooker’s Sea Lions lay motionless on the rock slabs, whilst a few of the latter came to investigate the Zodiacs coming in close behind the boats only to leap away at the last minute.

It wasn’t long before the raucous calls of Snares Crested Penguins could be heard and the first handfuls of birds came into view on the banks and rocky coast. These enigmatic penguins are great to watch; comical, sometimes bickering and strikingly patterned with large buttery-yellow crests and big red bills. As we continued along the coast the numbers of penguins progressively increased until we reached a bay surrounded by penguins. Here small groups gathered offshore waiting to come back to land and conversely clusters of birds inelegantly made their way across the rocks to the waters edge. Here the bull kelp surged with every wave and entering and exiting the water inevitably proved an incredibly ungainly affair with birds stumbling, slipping, sliding and falling into the water. The final spectacle is the penguin slide, here hundreds of penguins make the steep climb up and down a polished slither of bed rock. For those just emerging timing is everything. Get it wrong and the wave breaks over them but get it right and they’re given a helping hand up to the top of the splash zone.

After a superb Zodiac cruise we returned to the ship and discovered a change of plan was required to aid a passenger in poor health. The ship set sail back north towards Stewart Island where late afternoon we came into Port Pegasus on the south coast of the island. It was a good chance to see the stunning coastline and dramatic peaks of the island before turning tail and heading back south towards the Auckland Islands. In the afternoon there was a steady stream of White-capped and Salvin’s Albatrosses, Fairy Prions with the occasional Broad-billed Prion, Grey-backed Storm-Petrels and Cook’s Petrel. Albatross diversity also picked up with Southern Royals, Gibson’s Wanderers, Buller’s and more White-capped and Salvin’s.

© D. Brown
Day 4: Wednesday 14th November 2018
Enderby Island

With the unscheduled back-track to Stewart Island we arrived into the Auckland Island group a little later than planned and not a moment too soon for those who were still finding their sea legs. The ship finally came into the lee of Enderby Island late morning and after a briefing from Judd and an early lunch we were able to start getting people ashore early afternoon. Even before most people had set foot on the island one of the tougher endemics, Auckland Island Teal, had given itself up with a pair feeding in the shallow western edge of Sandy Bay, close to our landing spot.

With one of the toughest birds of the island already under our belts we opted to split up into three groups. The first consisted of some hardy folk embarking on the round-Enderby walk, an 11km hike following the coast through tussock grass and Rata forest. The remaining majority divided into two groups in an effort to locate the endemic taxa, not least the furtive Auckland Island Snipe. The weather added an extra element of difficulty with fairly frequent rain and a hefty north-northwester blowing in across the island. Thankfully both groups found the snipe relatively rapidly with one group even finding a tiny downy chick. Auckland Island Pipits proved common and confiding, the Banded Dotterel less so with just a handful seen. Red-crowned Parakeets took some work, the weather keeping them low and quiet but with some patience we eventually found a pair hunkered down in the scrub. Bellbirds still called from the Rata forest and where the forest met open grassland Northern Giant Petrels tended to their ugly white offspring. On the south side of the island a handful of Yellow-eyed Penguins showed well. Taking the boardwalk north across the island brought us into the expansive Bulbinella rossii fields of large yellow flowers. Here at the edge of the scrub Southern Royal Albatrosses were breeding, with birds taking advantage of the winds to cruise effortlessly past us. At the end of the boardwalk we located a trio of incubating Light-mantled Sooty Albatrosses braving the unabating wind and rain to keep their egg warm.

Back in Sandy Bay and around 40 Hooker’s Sealions were gathered on the beach. These males were eagerly awaiting the return of the females and frequently venting their frustrations on each other. The long walkers made good time and soon arrived back from their circumnavigation having also notched up all the endemic species. The final bonus for some of the birders was a fly-by New Zealand Falcon, a species that breeds in low numbers here and is probably one of the more difficult species to catch up with. As we cruised back to the ship we took in the cliffs to get closer views of Auckland Island Shag.

After a very successful afternoon we returned to the ship for a much needed hot shower, food and celebratory beer.

© R. Rudland
Day 5: Thursday 15th November 2018
Auckland Island

Overnight the ship repositioned south along the eastern coast of Auckland Island to the mouth of Musgrave Inlet. We headed out at 0600 on a Zodiac cruise to make the most of our time around Auckland Island and into some even more challenging weather. Wind and rain prevailed and whilst on our cruise the ship recorded a gust of 46knots (over 80kph!) but that did not force a retreat and we found our way in to the under-cliff on the north side of the inlet where a small colony of Eastern Rockhopper Penguins populates the boulder fields. Here a few showed themselves including an especially obliging quartet close to the waters edge. After enjoying these for a while we headed to the south side of the inlet where an old collapsed cave provided respite from the weather and a touch of serenity even. Here in this circular inlet ancient Rata trees adorned the top of the old cave whilst roots and moss spilled down into the cavern like living stalactites. We headed back to the ship for a warm up and a hot breakfast.

During breakfast the ship continued south and into Carnley Harbour, an ancient flooded caldera and sheltered area of water. Despite the fierce weather in Musgrave earlier, the conditions seemed on our side and after an early lunch a group was dropped off to make the ascent to the White-capped Albatross colony on Southwest Cape. For the remainder of us we slowly Zodiac cruised the north side of Adams Island, a strict nature reserve with no access and the only known location for Auckland Island Rail. Birds abounded and we had excellent views of many Auckland Island Teal and Shags whilst Auckland Island Tomtits foraged along the rocks and after a bit of searching a pair of Red-crowned Parakeets were also found. Judd led the way and we headed out beyond the shelter of Adams Island and into the huge swell of the open ocean, carefully edging around Southwest Cape until we found ourselves feeling very small under the White-capped Albatross colony. Above us towered huge cliffs, giant megaherbs clinging to the ledges and albatrosses peppering any available space. Cloud swirled the summit obscuring this natural amphitheatre’s true height. Albatrosses crisscrossed the sky, the sea rolled and surged rebounding off the black rocks to create an unsettled chop; the experience was humbling. After several hours the land group made a return to their pick-up point, tired and muddy after a tough scramble up through the dense tussock grass and scrub along pig trails. Many had made it right up to the Albatrosses where they had had excellent views of birds along the cliff edge on their mounded cup nests.

With a successful visit to the Auckland Islands complete the ship set sail out of Carnley Harbour and headed south-southwest to Macquarie Island.

© D. Brown
Day 6: Friday 16th November 2018
At sea to Macquarie Island

Today was spent sailing south-southwest towards Macquarie Island. A plethora of seabirds kept us entertained with good numbers of Gibson’s Albatross as well as a chance to compare Campbell and Black-browed Albatrosses. Antarctic Prions and White-headed Petrels started to become more evident whilst species such as Mottled Petrel also maintained a good presence. Smaller species such as Grey-backed Storm-Petrels and Subantarctic Little Shearwaters also started to become more noticeable. There were also a couple of cetacean sightings with two Fin Whales seen close to the ship and a group of eight Dusky Dolphins racing past the ship.

© R. Rudland
Day 7: Saturday 17th November 2018
Macquarie Island Station and Sandy Bay

After a relatively rough night and not much sleep, Macquarie Island was made in the early hours of the morning. The ship once positioned off the east side of ANARE station in Buckles Bay made radio contact with the base leader Chris, who being 2 hours behind on Australian time, was woken up early so we could make the most of our day. As Judd and Chris discussed the finer points of the day’s itinerary a pod of six Orca feeding off the abundant source of marine mammals came down the ship’s starboard side, making for some great viewing.

After a hearty breakfast and briefing, Zodiacs shuttled everybody ashore to a nice warm welcome from the Tasmanian Wildlife Service & Australian Antarctic Division waiting for us on the beach. From here all senses were in overload with all the sights, smells and sounds only a beach on Macquarie could muster. Young 2-month old elephant seals lay hauled out on the beach, with the adults moulting nearby, including huge 4 tonne beach-master males. After a climb up the steps, passengers were rewarded with grand views over the Western and eastern beaches looking towards the base. Making our way towards the base there were Gentoo’s, more Elephant Seals, Shags and Rockhopper Penguins. At the base mess, the smell of fresh scones wafted out the door. Everybody had a chance to meet the locals and have a cup of tea and scones with jam and cream. With time ticking Judd made the call on the radio for all to head back to the Zodiac landing site, where we were whisked back to the ship with our Australian rangers for a filling lunch while Captain Max repositioned the ship ready for a landing at Sandy Bay.

Sandy Bay did not disappoint! With the wind easing and swell dropping, the sun came out as we walked the shoreline in awe of the wildlife around us. King Penguins looked up as they waddled past. Elephant seal pups lay sleeping in the sun waiting for the night to come so they could practice swimming. Royals played and washed in the surf in front of us. The day was pure magic. One that none of us will ever forget.

Day 8: Sunday 18th November 2018
Lusitania Bay and at sea

Waking up this morning, a light dusting of snow had fallen on the tops of the ‘green sponge’ hills.

A southerly wind had started and snow flurries down to sea level came through in fronts, with winds gusting to 50 knots. The ship headed to Lusitania Bay to witness the 100,000 King Penguins on the beach. Sadly the weather was to marginal to launch Zodiacs but Captain Max brought the ship in as close as safe so we could all view this spectacular sight. Down to Heard Point we steamed in search of the Wandering Albatross. Turning north again we passed Lusitania Bay back up to the relative shelter of Buckles Bay for lunch. From here we set course for Campbell Island and spent the rest of the day getting comfortable for the passage to Campbell.

© G. Dutson
Day 9: Monday 19th November 2018
At Sea

We continued our course to Campbell Island, birders were out on deck and there was time to read in the library and download photos from the first half of the expedition.

Day 10: Tuesday 20th November 2018
Campbell Island, Perseverance Harbour

Woke up this morning to sunshine and surrounded by the peaks of Campbell Island in Perseverance Harbour. The walkers headed to North West Bay, setting off at 8am after getting dropped off by Zodiac at Tucker Cove. The hike was on a marked route up over the ridge and down to the western cliffs, presenting views across to Dent Island and NW Bay. From here the walkers weaved their way down the cliff-line through the megaherbs to Capstan Cove for a picnic before gaining elevation again and getting to the Department of Conservation Hut. From here gaining more altitude above the scrub line and sidling up under Mt Dumas through Southern Royals scattered through out the tussock descending back down to Camp Cove where the Zodiac shuttled them back to the boat.

Meanwhile the rest of us went off for a Zodiac cruise up the harbour, the highlights a breeding colony of about 50 sea lions; groups of Campbell Island Shags with their bright red gapes; grey-brown Light-mantled Sooty Albatross on mud nests cemented to ledges just above the spray line; a couple of NZ Fur Seals and beautiful columnar basalt. Some of the columns had fallen off onto the foreshore and look for all the world like a pile of Roman pillars.

After lunch we headed up to Col Lyall to watch the Southern Royal Albatross. We sat and watched the albatrosses; hearing the whoosh of their wings as they soared low over our heads. The new adults were ‘gamming’ in courtship groups of 3-6, nibbling each other’s breast feathers, putting their heads back, shaking them from side to side, yodelling and beak-clacking; spreading their wings high and wide in display; touching the sides of their beaks together. Their tenderness is all the more moving when you reflect that each has been gliding alone around the Southern Ocean for at least the past 2 years since fledging.

We weighed anchor at 1830 and we set sail for the Antipodes Islands.

© D. Brown
Day 11: Wednesday 21st November 2018
At Sea

Chris gave an introductory lecture to plants of the subantarctic.

Day 12: Thursday 22nd November 2018
Antipodes Island

We awoke to a NE wind, stronger than expected and from a quarter uncommon in these parts. In spite of that our scheduled arrival at the Antipodes was an hour and a half earlier than forecast; perhaps the effect of ocean currents in our favour. As we neared the islands the birdlife increased steadily; Antipodean and Black-browed Albatross; prions; Subantarctic Shearwater; Grey, Giant, White-chinned, White-headed and Cape Petrel; and then small rafts of the eagerly anticipated Erect-Crested Penguin.

The swell was running at around 4 metres at Ringdove Bay, our usual anchorage, which was exposed to the NE wind. We carried on around the northern side of the island between the dramatic, mist-shrouded Perpendicular Head and Bollon’s Island, then down the west coast, around the East Windward Islands at the eastern extremity of the Antipodes group and down to South Bay to find a lee shore. With the swell and wind still marginal, we decided to wait until after lunch. Finally the call to the gangway came and we climbed into 5 Zodiacs and were underway. The closer we came to the dramatic volcanic cliffs of South Bay, the less choppy the sea, although a large residual swell remained, surging 5-8 metres up and down the kelp-encrusted rock walls, covered in a species of dark-brown bull-kelp unique to the Bounty and Antipodes Islands.

We came in as close as prudent to the first group of Erect-Crested Penguins standing on a rock platform just above the surge line. They are a compact bird with jet-black head and back, white breast and legs, stout red beak, a rakish crest of bright yellow feathers and outsized fleshy pink feet with strong black claws. Their strident calls and the strong smell of ammonia from the colony were impressive. We saw Pipits fossicking around the colony and then began seeing parakeets; Reishek’s (a subspecies of red-crowned) then Antipodes (uniformly bright green); both very hard to distinguish at a distance from bright green moss. Most parakeet sightings began with seeing a pair fly and watching where they landed: Once on the ground they were almost invisible.

The next colony of Erect-crested Penguins we saw had a few resident Rockhopper Penguins amongst them, smaller and slighter with a more ‘wind-blown’ crest. The agility with which both species hopped from the surge line up near-vertical rock walls to their colonies was astonishing. At South Bay we were able to get right into the lee of South Inlet for a close encounter with a penguin colony on a rock shelf just above us: some stood, others preened or pecked at a neighbour to assert hierarchy. We had more parakeet sightings, most flying or landing on the vegetation band just above the rock line, where numerous Light-mantled Sooty Albatross were nesting.

After about 2 hours Judd gave the call to return to ship. We retraced our route around the coast then headed back into the open ocean, where the MV Khromov stood waiting underway at 1-2 knots, since anchorage was not possible. We had a challenging clamber from the Zodiac pontoons onto the gangway in the swell, ably assisted by the Russian crew.

Back on board Dan gave a lecture of the identification of cetaceans before bar-time, followed by yet another superb meal.

© D. Brown
Day 13: Friday 23rd November 2018
Bounty Islands

Dawn was misty over an undulating plain of glassy grey cross-swells. After a 6.30 breakfast we circumnavigated the Bounty Island group looking for a suitable location to launch the Zodiacs from. Gradually the mist cleared to reveal parts of Penguin, Depot and Spider Islands in the main Bounty Group: Brown granite mottled with large white patches of guano and not a blade of green in sight. A long line of breakers surged over a concealed reef to our starboard. We headed for the gangway and after negotiating the 2 metre oscillations in water level that periodically inundated the gangway, were underway for a Zodiac cruise around the Bounty Islands. As we got nearer rafts of Erect-crested Penguins appeared, prions fluttered right next to the Zodiacs and Salvin’s Albatrosses cruised by, wing-tips almost scratching the surface. We entered Bradley Cove, then around the NW margin of Depot island, Penguin Island and along Ruatara to the western ends of Tunnel and Ranfurly Islands.

Land and sea were alive with penguins, shags, seals, albatross and other seabirds: Our first port of call was a landing ramp used by a colony of Erect-crested Penguins. As they clambered up or down they exchanged indignant squawks, pecks and chiding threat-displays; red beaks open toward the opponent, legs and flippers splayed wide.

A raft of Bounty Island Shags with iridescent heads, ‘mohawk’ crests and red gapes swam curiously toward us before deciding we weren't so interesting after all and going back to diving. Some emerged with clumps of fine brown or green marine algae in their beaks, presumably for nest-building in the absence of any terrestrial vegetation.

At a NZ Fur Seal colony a mother lay parked on a rock surrounded by a dozen pups from the creche she was minding. Last year’s sub-adults careened around nearby, chasing and wrestling each other, occasionally being shooed off by the adults. Meanwhile the bulls were staking out territory ready for mating and we watched one chase another down the rock and into the surf. Other seals basked on the surface, cork-screwing or lying with one flipper in the air.

The Salvin’s Albatross, for which the Bounties is the chief breeding ground, had staked out most of the islands’ higher rock ledges. Some were sitting on nests, others courting, many soaring over the rocky ridges and surrounding ocean. Their plumage is a striking study in contrasts; dark brown wings, white breast and top of head, light grey feet and neck feathers, with jet black eye feathers that look like an angry smudge of mascara framing the yellow bill.

Two small birds fluttering about on a cliff-face near some nesting prions turned out surprisingly to be silver-eye and goldfinch.

Back on deck we changed and most of us went on deck to farewell the islands and take advantage of the abundant seabirds. We saw a small group of Short-finned Pilot Whales before lunch, then afterward large, distant whale blows too far off to identify. It was the mildest and calmest day yet to be out on deck keeping an eye on the sea.

Guy gave a lecture on Penguins of the Subantarctic in the afternoon.

© G. Dutson
Day 14: Saturday 24th November 2018
Pyramid, South-East / Rangatira Islands, Chatham Island

In the middle of Judd's breakfast call from the Bridge, he noticed and announced beaked whales right under the bow. Other distant blows were sighted on far horizons, but too far away to identify.

Chris gave a lecture called ‘Guns, Pigs and Potatoes’ about how new technologies and food arriving in New Zealand in the early 19th century led to the Musket Wars, the Maori invasion of the Chatham’s and a Maori-Moriori colony on the Auckland Islands in the 1840s.

We could see Pyramid Rock by 10am, reaching and circumnavigating it just after midday. As we went around it the island’s profile altered dramatically, revealing caves, soaring vertical cliffs, crevices and ledges. Fur Seals rested above the kelp line, with Chatham Albatross nesting higher up; some inside a huge cavern half way up, but the greatest number on the highest part of the island where the rock formation produced more horizontal shelving suitable for nesting. Albatross have solved the potential problem of eggs rolling off the rock or getting too cold by building egg-cup like mud pedestals, glued firmly to the rock. The Chatham Albatross has striking head plumage; light grey neck feathers merge into a dark grey head with black eye feathers, contrasting sharply with a tiny band of white feathers just behind the eye and with bright yellow bands along the upper and lower surfaces of its curved beak.

After lunch we launched the Zodiacs and cruised in the lee of the South East / Rangatira Islands to look for endemics. In spite of a difficult swell, we managed to spot several Chatham Red-crowned Parakeets, Shore Plovers (including an almost all-white one); Pitt Island Shag (distinctive green eyes), White-fronted Tern, and Chatham Island Tomtit. We heard but could not see the Chatham Island Snipe. As we came back to the ship a number of Chatham Albatross, clearly familiar with fishermen, swam right up to the Zodiacs.

After dinner we sailed back near the Pyramid and chummed from the back deck with fish scraps to see what pelagic species we could attract.

Day 15: Sunday 25th November 2018
Chatham Island, Pitt Strait

We were eating breakfast by 6.00am, picked up packed lunches and at 7.15 started shuttling ashore to the Waitangi Wharf on Chatham Island. We all climbed into a bus and a couple of vans and headed around the south coast to Sweet Water Reserve, a private community-run bush reserve on the property of Bruce and Liz Tuanui. They have fenced off an entire gully and stream down to the sea and the ‘two Daves’ (Bell and Boyle) maintain 45 kilometres of traplines to control rats, possums and cats. The results are spectacular: They have managed to reintroduce Chatham Island Tui to the reserve which are now recolonising other parts of the island. They also have large flocks of Chatham Island Wood Pigeons breeding, Chatham Island Warbler, Fantail and Red-crowned Parakeet. Down at the coast they maintain nesting boxes for Little Blue Penguins.

Some of us also visited two Taiko Trust projects; the first involves intensive management of an existing Taiko breeding site on the mainland through predator-proof fencing, revegetation and trapping around the perimeter, particularly as some of the birds have chosen to build their burrows outside the fence. A second predator-proof fence has been erected around a coastal promontory in an attempt to restore an island nesting site for the Chatham Island Albatross, which are currently vulnerable on their sole nesting site at the Pyramid. Fledglings have been raised at the project site for the previous 3 years: The first set are due to return and breed next year.

After lunch at the reserve we headed back to town, which on a Sunday afternoon was particularly quiet. The local café overlooking the harbour was open and made good sales of beers, coffees, and wifi cards to passengers and staff (the Chathams don’t have mobile phone coverage). Between drinks, passengers were able to add Chatham Island Oyster-catcher and Chatham Island Shag to the list of endemic birds seen.

The ship weighed anchor and moved to Pitt Strait on the south coast of the Chathams to chum and scan the seas for sightings of the elusive Taiko (Magenta Petrel) and Chatham Island Petrel.

“Magenta Petrel! Taiko! Everyone out on deck!” Finally, the first bird was spotted from the top deck, flying in behind the ship to check out the fish heads Guy was throwing out, or ‘chumming’ with. Everybody was celebrating. While some adjourned to the bar, others remained on deck until all useful light had gone, making 5 more sightings. A wonderful result to see such a special and rare bird at sea.

© D. Brown
Day 16: Monday 26th November 2018
Mangere Island, Chumming, At Sea

We awoke to find the ship anchored in the lee of Pitt Island and just off the Mangere Island Wildlife Sanctuary, the sun shining with a stiff warmish NW breeze. Around the horizon several improbably vertical rock-stacks protruded into the seascape. We launched the Zodiacs at 09:15 and headed for Mangere and Little Mangere Islands in hope of seeing the Forbes Parakeet, and JUST possibly, a Black Robin. We quickly found the former, which were abundant throughout the forest and most visible when feeding upon the flowering harakeke (NZ flax / Phormium tenax).

Australasian Harriers soared the towering cliffs behind the forested slopes, occasionally swooping down into the canopy in hope of snatching a fledgling. At one stage a number of White-fronted Terns and Red-billed Gulls joined forces to drive away a skua. We slowly circumnavigated the islands, every headland revealing yet another dramatic set of volcanic cliffs, caves and coves. Pitt Island Shags made good use of the low promontories and a group were diving for fish in the surge zone.

As we made our way around Little Mangere we began to get views of Rangiwheau / The Castle; an extraordinarily imposing complex of vertical volcanic spires to our south-west. We continued on around to a snug-looking Department of Conservation hut tucked into a cove on the western side of the island and watched Shore Plovers and a Chatham Oystercatcher on the tidal shelf.

We stopped several times adjacent to forested areas, getting as close as we could to look for land birds. We saw plenty more Forbes Parakeets as well as Chatham Island Tomtit and Warbler. We heard but couldn’t see Snipe and saw plenty of European Starlings and Blackbirds, but alas no confirmed sightings of Black Robins.

We returned to the ship well-pleased with this the last of an unbroken chain of successful outings for ‘Birding Down Under’.

After lunch we headed out to sea for a last chum before setting course for Dunedin: Our target the Chatham Petrel. None appeared, but we did have six different taxa of albatross following the ship, the vast majority being Chatham Albatross.

By mid afternoon we had set a course for Dunedin, two and a half days away.

© D. Brown
Day 17: Tuesday 27th November 2018
At Sea

The seawatchers had a full day at sea, punctuated by a wide variety of seabirds and a series of presentations. High numbers of Grey-faced Petrels dominated the day, with increasing numbers of Cook’s Petrels.

Chris gave a lecture about turning the tide of bird extinctions in Aotearoa / New Zealand; with a focus on Southern New Zealand and the Subantarctic; explaining the ancient Gondwanan lineage of the most deeply endemic birds, the waves of human-induced extinctions, recent developments in conservation science and the audacious national goal to bring back the birds by making New Zealand predator-free by 2050. Guy then gave a lecture on the Birds of Melanesia, introducing us to the islands from Norfolk, with many ornithological similarities to the Chathams, up through New Caledonia, Vanuatu and the Solomons to Papua New Guinea. Heritage Expeditions cruises offer an introduction to this region, visiting many of the inaccessible islands and their unique birds that Guy had placed firmly on the birding map.

After a movie in the lecture theatre, the birders found a Magenta Petrel, perhaps the most westerly record ever of this expedition icon. Another iconic bird, the albatross, featured in a guest rendition of Coleridge’s Rime of the Ancient Mariner: “At length did cross an albatross, through the fog it came…the albatross did follow, and every day, for food or play, came to the mariner’s hollo”, and thereafter launching these fabulous birds into 19th-century culture.

Dan concluded the day with a workshop on identifying the whales and ‘cookilaria’ petrels seen during the voyage. Just as he started discussing whales, a blow was seen from the bow and the bar quickly emptied. Only the blow was seen again, so we returned to analyse our photos and retire to our cabins.

Day 18: Wednesday 28th November 2018
At Sea

Our second full day at sea saw us transition away from the Southern Ocean and her desolate islands towards planning and packing for disembarkation. The sea birders maintained a steady watch from the decks, enjoying our final albatrosses and blowing whales before the fog descended.

Dan gave an inspiring lecture about other Heritage Expeditions from the Ross Sea to Wrangel Island. Emperor Penguins tempted our penguin enthusiasts, the culture of Melanesia charmed our hearts, the clouds of auks wowed the ardent birders, and the Polar Bears of Wrangel Island stole the show. How privileged we are to travel this amazing planet.

The sea birders kept their vigil and saw a series of Hutton’s and Buller’s Shearwaters among a wide variety of familiar species. After lunch and briefings on disembarkation, we were treated to a photographic presentation of the tour. The staff’s best images were used to remind us of our amazing trip, the awesome islands and the amazing wildlife. Everyone had their own favoured images and memories, but the presentation reminded us of how many islands we had visited, how the weather and staff had enabled us to enjoy Zodiac cruises to all of the accessible island groups, and of course the abundant and fearless wildlife. We had seen half of the world’s penguin species, hundreds of thousands of seabirds, the largest seals in the world, and an amazing 10 sightings of the rarest seabird in the world, the Taiko or Magenta Petrel.

On our last evening, we were treated to a toast to the Antarctic, our final top-class dinner (let’s remember the chefs’ largely unseen heroic work in the galley), and cheese after dinner. The bar was packed as we reveled in an amazing trip and cemented new friendships.

Day 19: Thursday 29th November 2018
Disembarkation in Dunedin

Some of us were up early to watch the pilot guide us through the heads of Dunedin harbour and up through the narrow shipping channel to the port. It was grey and drizzly – how lucky we had been with the weather! Bags were packed and offloaded and we waved goodbye, or au revoir, to friends new and old.