1829: Across the Top of the World 06 August 2018

Day 1: Monday 6 August
Anadyr

The wharf on the eastern side of the Anadyr River was the starting point for this expedition with guests arriving from yesterday (for those who had travelled from Nome) and others from Moscow to meet on the Spirit of Enderby, otherwise known as Professor Khromov, ready for an exciting two weeks exploring this little-known region of the Russian Far East. Once all were assembled it was time to settle in, get acquainted with the ship and fellow guests, and for Helen, the Expedition Leader, to give the welcome presentation and a safety briefing.

Following the briefings we were able to take advantage of a break in the grey weather and enjoy the many Beluga and Spotted Seals just of the side of the vessel all actively hunting for Salmon which were running the turbid waters upstream. Amongst the many white adult Beluga’s were a number of greyer immatures. One animal bore the scar of a Polar Bear attack with large claw marks along its flanks. Early evening came and we got to put what we had learnt in the safety briefing into action with a lifeboat drill, something that we hoped we wouldn’t have to do for real at any point! After the first of many delicious evening meals the tide turned and with slack water the ship moved away from the wharf at 2020 under the supervision of the pilot and headed downstream and towards the open ocean. Our voyage began.

Day 2: Tuesday 7 August
Presbrazhenya Bay

Our first morning on the ship started with a hearty breakfast followed by a couple of lectures. Oksana introduced the Beringia National Park and the wildlife protection system in Russia and was followed by Helen with an introduction to Presbrazhenya cliffs, our destination this afternoon, as well as a briefing on the Zodiacs so we were all familiar with what to expect. The morning cruised by, the ship ran fast and before we knew it, it was lunchtime and we were arriving at the spectacular Presbrazhenya cliffs. A south-westerly swell raised the fear we may not be able to cruise but these were alleviated when we arrived in the bay and the captain tucked the ship in just out of reach of the main swell.

We launched all five Zodiacs and headed across the bay to the base of the cliffs. Swell surged up the rocks funnelling up the fissures and intrusions with immense force and obscuring the Zodiacs with giant rolls. The seabirds above us seemed completely unconcerned. A vast natural seabird city adorned the monumental cliffs. Black-legged Kittiwakes clamoured and squabbled from their splash-zone nests, chicks peaking down to these mysterious rubber shapes in the water. Brunnich’s and Common Guillemots lined the ledges and above them Tufted Puffins peppered the upper grassy banks. The boulder scree provided a refuge for Parakeet and Crested Auklets which swirled in dense flocks above the stark landscape. Careful searching revealed Horned Puffins and Pigeon Guillemots making crevices and cracks their home. Ever alert, Glaucous Gulls and Ravens patrolled the cliffs ready to seize unattended eggs or chicks. It was all-action. To witness such a hive of active from the surface of a churning ocean provides a completely unique perspective and made our Zodiacs seem very very insignificant in such a landscape. Having enjoyed the cliff spectacle we motored across the eastern side where the lee of the cliffs provided shelter from the swell. Here a colony of Glaucous Gulls complete with beady-eyed juveniles objected to our presence with angry tones and the odd fly-by whilst the Horned Puffins seemed to find more tranquillity in the fracturing stacks and crumbling cliffs. With the afternoon drawing to an end we motored back to the ship, raised the Zodiacs, heaved the anchor and headed east towards the Bering Strait.
© A. Chavanne © D. Brown
Day 3: Wednesday 8 August
Yttygran Island and Gil’mimyl

Arriving at Yttygran Island we found calm overcast conditions, perfect for a landing to explore Whalebone Alley. Shuttling ashore we met the two Vassili's and Ivan who provided us with an in-depth explanation of the history of the site, the structure of the village and the way of life that would have occurred here many years ago from the significance of the Bowhead Whale jaw bones standing upright to the meat pits excavated into the base of the scree slope. One can only imagine what it must have been like 500 years ago staring out across the sound, launching a small skin boat and heading off to hunt for whales. Following the fascinating insight into life at Whalebone Alley, guests were free to roam, take photos, enjoy the Arctic Ground Squirrels or stretch the legs and head up the hill. With the cloud dropping and the rain starting we headed back onboard for a warming drink, some lunch, and to reposition the ship up the coast to Gil’mimyl.

Gil’mimyl is a fascinating place with something for everyone. Once again we shuttled into the small lagoon on the Zodiacs landing on the shore where we had the option of joining several groups. Elena lead a group out over the tundra in search of edible plants, Dan strolled along the edge of the river scanning for birds, both the latter groups ending up at the hot spring, Rachael made a beeline straight for the hot pool and Oksana remained close to the landing location with Ivan, a local Chukcki man who had set up his Yarunga and created a beautiful spread of food for us to try including smoked and fried salmon, fried bread and salad. A well-used black kettle hung from the structure over a wood fire, the scent clinging to us as we slumped back into the cosy Reindeer pelts laid out on the floor.

Along the river the birders had found Red-necked Stints, and Eastern Yellow and White Wagtails, whilst in the river itself the Pink Salmon (Humpies) had already started running with large pinky-brown fish darting up the shallows, their exaggerated humped dorsal ridges and fins cutting the water with a burst of speed. As we approached the hot springs the ground was steaming and fine dew condensed on the grass growing along the hot flushes. Here a wooden hot tub has been dug into the ground where fresh, bath-hot water runs directly into it. For a brave few the ice-cold waters of the adjacent river proved an enticing prospect and a great way to cool off!
  After a very enjoyable few hours ashore the rain finally arrived, we said our goodbyes to Ivan and made our way back to the ship.
© Heritage Expeditions
Day 4: Thursday 9 August
Lavrentiya & Cape Dezhnev

The silhouette of Lavrentiya lay angular at the back of the beach in front of us. Soon after breakfast we shuttled ashore before re-grouping on the shingle beach at the front of the town and making our way firstly to the Pelikan statue where a quick rub of the belly should have given us all some extra luck. Our time in Lavrentiya was then divided between the museum and outside the community centre. At the latter a superb platter of local delicacies has been prepared for our consumption from smoked salmon to salted Gray Whale, boiled walrus and a variety of cakes laced with tundra berries, all washed down with a cup of warming tea. In the museum we were shown the variety of amazing artefacts from Chukchi and Yupik life each with a fascinating story behind it. Meeting back at the community centre a superb dance performance was put on for us whilst we continued to enjoy more food and drink and for those with a little energy engaged in a game of Eskimo hand ball. The morning had been a fascinating insight into local life and no doubt offered something new for all of us.

We left Lavrentiya and moved northeast up the Gulf and out into the Bering Strait passing a number of Gray Whales actively feeding in the shallow waters and many hundred of guillemots and auklets. Oksana delivered a superb lecture about Naukan, the abandoned Yupik village we were heading for at Cape Dezhnev and as we entered the narrowest part of the Bering Strait Rakmanova (or Big Diomede) stood proud on the horizon.

The sea and weather looked promising for a landing at Cape Dezhnev and a scout boat was launched. We were in luck. The swell was minimal and a landing was on. With everyone gathered onshore Oksana was able to lead on along the beach and up into the abandoned village of Naukan, past old meat larders and circular huts, the whalebone ribbed roof now collapsed. The walk continued to the newly erected bell and up to the monument and bust of Dezhnev from where the views were all encompassing; even the distant peak of Prince of Wales Land, mainland Alaska was visible. Birds streamed through the Bering Strait like grains of sand through an hourglass as the light slowly ebbed away. We made our way back to the ship after a long and packed day.
© D. Brown © D. Brown
Day 5: Friday 10 August
Kolyuchin Island and at sea to Wrangel Island

After an evening rounding the eastern most part of Eurasia, we crossed the Arctic Circle and awoke to find ourselves in the Chukchi Sea, bouncing around in 20 knots of wind.

We were unsure if we were going to be able to make a landing in the wind, but as soon as we approached Kolyuchin Island, we saw that it might be possible to find shelter in the lee. At nearly the same moment, we spotted a walrus haulout and took a tour around the island to watch walrus from the ship and keep an eye out for Polar Bears.

In the lee of the island, the captain and Expedition Leader found a suitable anchorage to launch the Zodiacs and we all got to take a tour of the cliffs along the western side of the island where many Horned Puffins, guillemots and Pelagic Cormorants were nesting. Many of the birds were closer to the water than at Presbrazhenya Bay and thus we were able to get good views of the birds with our bare eyes.

We all hopped back onboard and after another delicious meal prepared by Lance and Bruce, we cruised out to a shallow bank in search of whales. Loads of shearwaters were about and soon enough blows were seen in the breeze. On approach, it turned out to be a group of Bowhead Whales. It was a special opportunity to see these giant, slow moving animals.

As the whales spread out to continue feeding, we set sail for Wrangel Island, still roughly 170 nautical miles away.

Day 6: Saturday 11 August
Wrangel Island – Doubtful Bay

As we slept, the ship sailed north-northeast, and toward Wrangel Island. The wind died down and curtains were pulled to a foggy but glassy sea surface. As we were still pushing north we got one last sleep in before the excitement of Wrangel “expedition days”, and the morning kicked off with a presentation on Polar Bears, wait, no, there were Polar Bears spotted on the ice and everyone rushed outside to see a mother and two cubs on an ice floe. The ship edged closer and eager eyes met curious bears. As we approached, the three bears all came to the ice edge, and with wonderful reflections, puzzled over what may have been their first ship sighting. The mother had been tagged, likely in Alaska, and had made its way back to the area to feed with her cubs. It was a delight to see such fat, healthy bears. After the bears, and the postponed presentation of bears, we got lunch before heading out to make our first landing on Wrangel.

Sea ice dotted the calm surface as we dropped off builders and the director of the Wrangel Island Reserve, and soon after lunch everyone caught a ride over to Doubtful Bay. We split into ranger-led groups and walked among the old buildings and an array of blooming arctic flowers. The flowers added a splash of colour to what would have otherwise could have been a fog shrouded landscape dotted with rusting machinery and broken buildings. Hundreds of Snow Geese were seen in the distance, dotting the landscape in what could have been snow patches. The first group of overlanders were left onshore in the care of the rangers and Elena, and the ship set sail for the next day’s landing on Wrangel Island.

Day 7: Sunday 12 August
Wrangel Island – Cape Fomy, Sovetskay River and Ptichiy Bazar

A sunny day in the arctic is always welcome, and as we cruised up to Cape Fomy the fog lifted, and Wrangel Island emerged once again from the mists. Polar Bears dotted the hillsides, and we scanned the shoreline and in conjunction with the Wrangel Island Rangers aboard, decided to make a landing. Once ashore we split into three groups, going for a long, medium and short stroll along the shoreline. We all set off from the monument to the Russians who planted the first flag on Wrangel Island in 1911 from the ship Viagach. The Island has been under Russian stewardship since 1916 when the Tsar’s government declared Wrangel to belong to Russia.

While walking we kept a close eye on the bears, and spotted numerous birds on the lagoon near shore. Near the end of the walk, those on the long walk were made aware that there was a bear swimming to shore in their direction. For some reason, the bear decided not to continue to shore, and a speedy departure was made by Zodiac.

After refueling onboard, we set off up the coast to make a landing and nice walk at Sovetskay River. All went ashore for a good walk on the tundra, and again, bears were seen inland. Most got a chance to see a mother and two older cubs laying and resting in the sunshine. This was an ideal location to see a classic polar environment with sparse vegetation, bears and migratory birds.

Returning once again to the ship, we all enjoyed another fabulous meal by our chefs and got ready for a sunset cruise along the bird cliffs around Ptichiy Bazar. Heading out, the sun still in the clouds, we spotted another two bears and went along to watch. They were uninterested in us and took off. The intrepid after dinner cruisers made their way back to the bird cliffs, where countless kittiwakes and Brunnich’s Guillemots nested on what seemed like a sheer cliff. As we pulled back to look at the cliff from a distance, the sun emerged from below the clouds and set the bird cliffs on fire. With the calm seas, birds streaming overhead and an arctic sunset we concluded another fantastic day around Wrangel Island
© Heritage Expeditions © Heritage Expeditions
Day 8: Monday 13 August
Wrangel Island, Dream Head

It was one of those “unconditional days” when the fog covered the ship and we had to be creative. So, what do normal people do in such a sad day – they watch movies and read book, having a cup of tea and a cookie next to the chair.

Right after the breakfast Oxana gave a lecture about whaling in Chukotka based on her recent educational project about the first Soviet whaling fleet “Aleut”. She also shared her research on ancient aboriginal whaling that began 2,500 years ago as indicated by the rock carving in Pegtymel River near Pevek whisp where paleo Eskimo harvested Bowhead, Humpback and Gray Whales. We learnt about Soviet industrial whaling fleets in the Russian Far East and the exceptional captain of the last catcher-boat “Zvyozdny” Leonard Votrogov. He contributed a lot to Chukotka writing articles on whales, helping local Eskimo and Chukchi people with supplies, and confirmed that Chukotka waters had enough Bowhead Whales to instigate aboriginal whaling of this species again. Contemporary aboriginal whaling still occurs in Chukotka with around 350 whalers in 14 communities using 78 motor-boats. Subsistence whaling helps natives of Chukotka to maintain their lifestyle and identity.

The fog remained thick all day meaning that a very controlled landing was the only possibility at Dream Head. Here we were allowed to wander within a carefully monitored area to avoid any unnecessarily close encounters with Polar Bears. The second group of overlander passengers swapped around with the first boarding the ship for a well earned cuppa and shower!

We pulled away from the coast, a chance for those who needed a retail fix to indulge in the sea shop and as we headed north and past 70o the fog cleared and the sun came out. Gently pushing through ice we stumbled across a couple of obliging bears, one slowly meandering across its ice flow to inspect the ship, the second staring at a seal breathing pool waiting for something to appear. The golden evening light cast a beautiful hue across their fur and their breaths puffed orange in the cold air.
© Heritage Expeditions
Day 9: Tuesday 14 August
Herald Island & Dragi Bay, Wrangel Island

The fog and low cloud spared us an early wake up call as we sat at anchor just off Herald Island. After breakfast we Zodiac cruised the coast checking out a couple of walrus haulouts in the caves. We searched along the coast to the northern tip of the island pushing through some choppy waters and a cutting wind to enjoy Horned Puffins, Black Guillemots and the striking geology of the island before returning to the ship.

Lifting anchor we headed west and back to Wrangel where we were greeted by more ice packing in along the eastern coast. Coming into Dragi Bay, the site of the monument to the Karluk, we launched the Zodiacs and cruised between the ice floes exploring the rocky headland, ice caves and then along the beach where a large Polar Bear strolled down the bank towards us slipping into the water and out on to the floes. The monument was just visible in the thick fog which unfortunately prevented a landing but it was still great to get amongst the ice. Heading back to the ship the Zodiacs had to breakthrough the ice floes to a clear area of water for us to be able to embark the ship.

As evening fell we headed off south around the coast and further out to sea encountering yet more ice. At the same moment the fog cleared and the sun appeared revealing a stunning female Polar Bear and her two cubs. The light was stunning, the bears sublime. One of the cubs plucked up the courage to come and see what the ship was and was promptly followed by the female and second cub with all three strolling right up to the bow only feet from some very wide-eyed passengers. It’s not every day you get to make eye contact with a family of Polar Bears. Taking care not to influence their behaviour further we gently pulled away from the ice leaving them watching us.
© D. Brown © D. Brown
Day 10: Wednesday 15 August
Krasin Bay & Doubtful Bay

We anchored at Krasin Bay just in front of Devil’s Creek, a 3,500 year old Paleo-Eskimo site. Archeologist Nikolay Dikov came to this site in 1975 and worked here over four field seasons. His team discovered middens containing the remains of walrus, Polar Bears, Reindeer, seals and birds and it was thought to be used as a hunting camp. The Devil’s Creek is also known for its geographical line, the 180th meridian, which divides the island on the Western and the Eastern Hemispheres.

The weather was superb, one of those hazy, warm early autumn days. The night before had been cold and fresh pancake ice patterned the surface of the bay between small floes. Onshore the tundra was starting to flush yellow and red and the sweet smell rose from the ground. Overhead skein after skein of Snow Geese flew south along the coast punctuating the otherwise silent scene. With everyone ashore we split into three groups, one to explore the Paleo-Eskimo site, a long-walk group who headed up to the ridge, and a medium walk which headed out in search of Snowy Owls and Long-tailed Skuas. All the walks enjoyed the later blooming flowers and the birders located their Snowy Owls, a pair perched high on the ridges. A Long-tailed Skua did a close fly by before landing on its lookout bluff.

Through the silent air we could hear distant walruses out on the ice bellowing to each other and as we upped anchor and headed east we encountered several hundred scattered on the floes with many pups sprawled out on the backs of their mothers. An hour later we anchored back at Doubtful Bay. As a welcoming party two Polar Bears roamed throughout the buildings, one standing up to look into the window where our overland party were staring back at it. The landing was controlled and the rangers kept a sharp eye open for the bears as we explored the village once again, this time without any fog. The highlight was an Arctic Fox near the old building and a Snowy Owl up the river bed, a fitting way to end our time exploring this remarkable Arctic Island.

We waved goodbye to our rangers, heaved anchor and set course back towards the mainland and into what promised to be some stronger winds.
© D. Brown © D. Brown
Day 11: Thursday 16 August
Belyaka Spit, Kolyuchin Inlet

The forecast wind overnight and through the morning never materialised and we sailed south and into the narrow mouth of the vast Kolyuchin Inlet on calm waters. To our north Kolyuchin Island lay silhouetted whilst to the south, east and west the Chukotkan coastline sloped away in a soft, autumnal light.

We landed in a small bay on the eastern sandspit where we were greeted by Alexey, an Ornithologist who spends his summers at Belyaka researching waders. We were able to explore at leisure for a couple of hours although a couple of groups were available for those who wanted to learn more about Alexey’s life at Belyaka or those who wanted to go birding. Next to the landing spot a cross marks the resting place of Belyak.

The birding group got off to a great start with a flock of juvenile Pectoral Sandpipers feeding in a muddy pool quickly followed by a pair of juvenile Buff-breasted Sandpipers, the first on the spit since 2005 and likely hatched on Wrangel. These tiny waders were just starting out on their southbound journey which will take them to South America. The Sandhill Cranes of the region had also started on their migration and a flock of 39 flew in across the bay to the north landing on the spit. Much like the sandpipers these will be heading for the New World. The pools at Belyaka provided a perfect breeding location for Pacific and White-billed Divers and we found both species each with a small fluffy chick, a highlight for many. Two small flocks of Emperor Geese proved a very pleasant surprise not to mention striking with their gleaming white heads and silvery bodies. This Beringian endemic can be a difficult species to catch up with.

The groups reconvened at Alexey’s hut and with the ship having relocated around to the north side of the spit we were shuttled back onto the ship to continue our voyage east along the north coast of Chukotka and towards the Bering Strait.
© D. Brown
Day 12: Friday 17 August
Lavrentiya Gulf

We woke to a smooth passage through the Bering Strait with Big Diomede sitting to our port side and a sliver of mainland Alaska (the top of Prince of Wales Mountain) just in view beyond it. As we continued south we arrived at the mouth of the Lavrentiya Gulf once again, and were soon greeted with a number of Gray Whales. Over the next couple of hours around 25 of these gentle giants fed happily in the Gulf churning up great clouds of sediment which was promptly seized upon by small flocks of Red-necked and Grey Phalaropes as well as Short-tailed Shearwaters and kittiwakes.

The ship slipped passed Lavrentiya and further up the gulf continuing through more whales and seabirds. A Gyr Falcon belted down the starboard side of the vessel and Erige picked up three distant brown bears. We came to a halt in a sheltered bay, its name, No Name Bay. After lunch we shuttled ashore in glorious sunshine and 18oC for the chance to explore this beautiful area of the Bering Strait. Three groups set out. Alex led a long walk skirting up the protecting peninsula to our east and along to the high point that Dan had lead a group up. From the summit we had stunning views out over the bay, the gulf itself, the sheltered lagoon and the braided river beneath right up to the snow-mottled peaks inland. Small flocks of Sandhill Cranes continued their migration south and east, no doubt heading towards a narrowing between Eurasia and North America. The landscape was breath-taking; big sweeping valleys and lunar-like hill tops devoid of vegetation. The long-walkers enjoyed views of two brown bears fishing in the river, one of which caught a Salmon and proceeded to lope across the valley base towards the group before devouring it. The transition between summer and autumn was evident. Flowers still bloomed but the first of the Lingon and BearBerries were ripening and a yellowish cast had befallen the vegetation. After a very enjoyable three hours ashore we waved goodbye to the bay and headed back to the ship where we enjoyed a tranquil dinner in the shelter of the gulf before setting off south late in the evening.

Day 13: Saturday 18 August
Chukotka Coast and Pengingay Bay

A warm breeze wafted through the ship this morning and we enjoyed several brown bears sighted near an old whale carcass. It was a good start to another sunny summer day in the Russian Far East. Soon after we passed the bears, we started seeing whales in great numbers, and before we knew it we were in the Zodiacs amongst them. The day was ideal for whale watching and more then 30 humpback whales were energetically feeding and surfacing around our small boats much to the enjoyment of everyone aboard. The Zodiacs spread out, each quietly watching its own group of whales with every boat getting a special encounter as the Humpbacks surfaced close by often swimming under the boats to look up at us. There was an odd whale in the group and it turned out that a North Pacific Right Whale was swimming and feeding amongst the humpbacks. An extraordinarily rare whale, this Right Whale has a world population of fewer than 200 animals. With few visitors to the area, these animals are very rarely sighted. It was an extra special treat at the end of a remarkable trip. Several animals could be seen breaching as we wrapped up our cruise amongst the whales and multitudes of Tufted Puffins.

Over lunch the ship repositioned further into Pengingay Bay to get some shelter from the breeze that had picked up. Everyone came ashore in the afternoon for a leg stretch up the hill behind the beach, or some time to relax in the beautiful surroundings. When we arrived, a Wolverine was spotted on the hill, another rare animal to see anywhere in the world, and another first for many onboard. As the hikers climbed to the summit, guests could be seen below spreading out, birdwatching, and going for a swim in the ocean. It was a wonderful last landing before commencing our journey back to Anadyr.

Once all the Zodiacs were back onboard, the ship set sail south, and as we cruised through the area we were in through the morning, the North Pacific Right Whale was spotted again, whilst the Humpbacks could be seen breaching and lob-tailing. We ended the day with a recap, only to have it pleasantly interrupted by a group of Gray Whales right before dinner as the sunset behind them, a fitting end to a brilliant day.
© D. Brown
Day 14: Sunday 19 August
At Sea to Anadyr

After days of getting up early for adventure, today Helen let us all sleep in a little bit extra on our day at sea. A day at sea at the end of a trip like this is always welcome. It allows us all to wind down, take a deep breath, to begin to digest what we have seen, and get ready to return to our normal lives.

Housekeeping tasks were taken care of, those wonderful Muckboots were returned, and accounts settled. Oxana gave a presentation in the morning on the festivals of the Chukchi people which followed from the movie played the previous night. Dan then gave a presentation before lunch on whales, offering further insight on the animals we got to experience yesterday.

After a lunch we had our disembarkation briefing, and time to pack before an evening at the bar and a chance to catch up before we all go our separate ways.

Finally, a farewell dinner was served, a feast that appropriately celebrated the end of an exciting adventure across the top of the world.

Day 15: Monday 20 August
Port of Anadyr

We disembarked the Professor Khromov in the morning and commenced our travels homeward.