1170: Ross Sea - In the Wake of Scott and Shackleton 10 Feb 2011
Trip Report
Voyage # 1170
In the Wake of Scott & Shackleton
10th February - 11th March 2011
February 10, 2011: Invercargill, Voyage Dinner
Fifty excited expeditioners from around the globe arrived at Invercargill to begin a journey in the footsteps of Sir Robert Falcon Scott and Sir Ernest Shackleton. All mustered at the Kelvin Hotel for an introductory dinner where they met their travelling companions: with whom they would spend the next 4 weeks travelling to Antarctica. Fine dining was enjoyed by all and excited introductions were made. Most voyagers retired early in the evening, in anticipation of boarding the Spirit of Enderby the following day. On board ship they would meet the remaining Heritage Expeditions staff and begin their journey south.
February 11: Port of Bluff, setting sail for the southern seas
Following breakfast, bags were checked by security and loaded on the truck to head to the ship. Soon after this, most people made their way to the Southland Museum and enjoyed the informative Roaring 40’s display on New Zealand’s Subantarctic Islands. Shortly after lunch all guests boarded the coach to drive to the Port of Bluff; arriving on board the Spirit of Enderby, travellers finally got to see their cabins and started to settle in. All guests enjoyed an afternoon of waving goodbye to the Port of Bluff, exploring the ship and attending briefings; we then sailed south through rafts of Sooty Shearwaters with the first of many Albatross following behind. Some New Zealand Fur Seals and an unidentified dolphin were both seen not long after leaving the shelter of the port. Sailing south past Stewart Island gave some protection from the wind and it was a very pleasant start to the voyage. The bar was opened in the early evening and a good turnout proved that not too many were affected by seasickness. The first night on board was then finished with a lovely meal prepared by our wonderful chefs Nicola and Brad.
February 12: At sea, enroute to the Auckland Islands
The seas had strengthened over night and as we arrived at the Snares Islands early the decision was made by Rodney that it was too rough to Zodiac cruise. The ship traversed the islands, giving all early risers on deck a good look at the geography and the masses of birdlife living there. Buller’s Albatross, Sooty Shearwaters, Diving Petrels, White Chinned Petrels and Cape Petrels were just some of the species seen from the ship as the sun rose over the sea. Some Snares Crested penguins were spotted porpoising in the water, and several of the colonies on the island were viewable with binoculars. After this good look at the islands, the Spirit of Enderby steered back on course towards the Auckland Islands. The Southern Ocean gave us a taste of what she can be capable of with waves reaching approx 6 meters high - most on board travelled well and it was a good chance for everyone to test out their sea legs. Dean presented a lecture on the biology and ecology of seals and a documentary on the Roaring 40’s was enjoyed by many. This gave us a glimpse of what to expect tomorrow and we were all very excited about the thought of arriving at Port Ross early tomorrow morning, partly to see new lands, but also in anticipation of the ship being relatively still! The bar opened at 6.30pm and not long after another fine meal was served. We all retired to our bunks, weary from travel and knowing that tomorrow we would be walking the lush earth of Enderby Island.
February 13: Enderby Island
We awoke at anchor in Port Ross, off one of the Southern Ocean’s most amazing islands: Enderby. The ship was still and we had all managed some good hours of sleep; the sun rose over flat waters and a blue sky showed promising signs for the day. After breakfast, a briefing from Rodney and making lunches we boarded the Zodiacs for our first ride, quickly assembling near the research station and moving along the beach as a Search and Rescue Helicopter came in to land for an annual fuel delivery operation. Our group headed off towards the western cliffs where Auckland Island Tomtits and pipits greeted us and were a sign of things to come: the variety and tameness of birds is one of the highlights of Enderby. Entering into a small patch of rata forest, we carried on up the boardwalk past nesting Southern Royal Albatross and through spectacular fields of flora on to the western cliffs where we could admire the nesting Light-mantled Sooty Albatross and feel the fresh wind on our faces.
A few people returned to the beach to spend some time with the sea lions and Yellow-eyed Penguins, while the majority carried on around the island enjoying an amazing walk. Auckland Island Shag colonies were in full swing, with adults caring for chicks and rebuilding nests. Birders ticked off Red-crowned Parakeets, the elusive Subantarctic Snipe and of course the Auckland Island Shag. The terrain varied from easy on the grassy sward to challenging through the tussock grasses. Everyone had fun dodging the feisty sub adult sea lions who simply wanted to play. Many young pups could be seen grouping together as their mothers were out to sea foraging to provide them with the milk they need to grow big and strong. The scenery was always changing and dramatic; some people took time out from the coast to explore inside the haunting rata forest. Yellow-eyed Penguins nervously waddled to and from the water. At last it was time to return to the ship having had a sublime day ashore with beautiful blue skies and sunshine almost all day long. The bar was lively and full of chatter as we swapped stories of the day: we all went to bed quite exhausted after the fresh air, sunshine and a good long walk.
February 14: Carnley Harbour, Tagura Bay
When we awoke for breakfast we were entering Carnley Harbour and had a scenic cruise of this haven of calm in the Southern Ocean. To our starboard was the main Auckland Island and to our port the pest-free Adams Island. The harbour was filled with seabirds: mainly Sooty Shearwaters, but also some Gibson’s Albatross, Auckland Island Shags, Yellow-eyed Penguins and also the occasional Hooker’s Sea Lion. Given the weather for the day, Rodney had decided to show us one of the more historical and significant sites in the harbour, the coast watchers hut in Tagura Bay. Here we walked along the peninsula through forests of rata and dracophyllum to one hut and up the hill line to a smaller lookout hut. It was very interesting to see them and try to imagine what the men endured during those long, cold and lonely months so many years ago. What hearty souls they must have been! Once back on board we had lunch in the calm waters and then ventured towards the exit of Carnley Harbour. We had blue skies and the sun was shining as we sailed out and many people enjoyed an afternoon on deck watching the masses of birdlife around the ship.
February 15: At Sea, enroute to Macquarie Island
We awoke this morning to the Southern Ocean giving us some good rolls, shakes and shudders. A southerly wind made the ship’s journey south the roughest for this voyage yet. However, many brave souls made it to breakfast and, shortly after, Dean presented an introduction to Macquarie Island - covering historical and natural aspects of an incredible little island in the middle of nowhere. In case some of us were suffering from the inability to shop, Marie set herself up a little stall in the dining room to sell postcards - we could now send loved ones in faraway lands messages from the Furious 50s on our way to the frozen continent. After lunch, Tess gave us an insight into what it was like to live on Macquarie Island– she and Dean had lived and worked there for 12 months, researching the fur seal population. It was a great opportunity to get an insider’s perspective, and made us all want to apply for a position on the island! Later in the evening the bar opened and we enjoyed the social aspect by playing cards, sharing stories and writing postcards. Many retired early to their bunks to endure another night of rough southern seas. All were looking forward to waking at Macquarie Island the following day.
February 16: Sandy Bay, Macquarie Island
After a lie in, we ate breakfast in the calm lee of Macquarie Island. Zodiacs were launched to pick up four ranger guides from the Buckles Bay station. Once they were aboard we had a briefing about our plans as the ship sailed south the short distance to Sandy Bay and came to anchor in calm conditions about a mile off shore. A low cloud hung about the shoreline as King and Royal Penguins swam out to greet the ship. Zodiacs were quickly launched and we were all ashore after an easy landing; the welcoming committee was composed of curious King Penguins and smelly, moulting adult male elephant seals. We had several hours to spread out and enjoy ourselves surrounded by overwhelming quantities of wildlife at every turn. Elephant seals (due to their huge size) were one of the most obvious: the young males wallowed in tight groups - hard to believe that these are small compared to the fully grown adult males! King Penguins were spread about the beach; by sitting quietly with them some great encounters were had. They would often come right up and peck at our boots, as fascinated by our presence as we were by theirs. Down the north end of the beach was a colony, quite a few chicks were around and some adults were still incubating their eggs, their feet held up at a 45 degree angle to cradle the egg. The other penguin at Sandy Bay is the Royal Penguin, which is of particular interest because Macquarie is the only place on earth where this species occurs. Good numbers were coming to and from their inland nesting colony and a short boardwalk led up the hill and into that colony, passing a severely rabbit-grazed patch of Pleurophyllum hookeri enroute. The penguin colony itself was busy, with moulting adults and growing chicks all mixed in together. It was a very smelly and noisy colony, particularly when the Brown Skuas came flying over in hopes of a meal. By early afternoon it was time for us all to head back to the ship to warm up and have a lunch.
About half the group joined the shuttles back to the beach for the afternoon. The fog had lifted a little and presented us with better photographic opportunities and the weather stayed quite good for the day. It was another opportunity to sit quietly and appreciate a Subantarctic island at its finest. The last of us left the beach with the final Zodiac at 6pm, tired after a long and most exciting day ashore. After dinner a few people enjoyed the pleasant conditions on deck and got some good photographs of the King Penguins still swimming around the ship.
February 17: Station visit, Macquarie Island
We awoke anchored on the eastern side of the isthmus of Macquarie Island in Buckles Bay. The wind was blowing from the south west and a lot of fog covered the island. There was a light drizzle of rain early on but regardless of the conditions we were all very excited to be at this little wonder spot of the world!
Rodney gave a brief talk in the lecture room to let everyone know about the plan for the day. The conditions were not ideal, so Rodney and his team decided to bring the Zodiacs in to Garden Cove. It was a little tricky getting people off the boats and onto the slippery beach, but the team managed to get everyone ashore safely, with only a few wet gumboots! On shore conditions were quite good and, as we wandered around the station limits with our Macquarie Island guides, we got to meet not only the human inhabitants but also more of the local wildlife. Today we added the Gentoo Penguin and the Rockhopper Penguin to our list as well as seeing many more Kings, Royals and elephant seals. It was fantastic to see this working Antarctic Station and be able to go to the mess and share a cuppa and a scone with the expeditioners that spend so much time here.
We spent many hours walking the coast, learning so much and making new friends. It was an incredible experience that we will not soon forget. In the late afternoon we jumped back into the Zodiacs and returned to the ship where we ate, drank and had a delightful afternoon and evening sharing stories and downloading photos. Another great day was had by all thanks to the fantastic rangers on Macquarie Island and everybody else that we met at the station.
February 18: Enroute to the Ross Sea
We awoke this morning to a calm ship heading south east for the Ross Sea. There was blue sky and sunshine overhead and a following sea pushing us along so we were already making good time. The day’s activities began with a viewing of documentaries filmed by Dean and Tessa on Macquarie Island. After this it was time to hand out the warm Antarctic jackets that we would be spending the next few weeks almost living in. A lovely lunch was enjoyed, followed by a screening of The Last Place on Earth – a documentary about the race by Scott and Amundsen to the South Pole. This was the very expedition we were retracing.
Many of our voyagers spent hours on deck or on the bridge spotting birds and enjoying the sunshine. Outside temperatures had now started dropping and a few extra layers were needed for the adventurous ones, bird-watching on the outside decks. The first good whale sighting of the trip occurred when a friendly Minke Whale surfaced twice very close off the port side of the ship. The iceberg spotting competition was also announced and we all guessed at what time we would see the first berg. The bar opened for shenanigans and most people made it there for a drink and a chat with their fellow travellers. Another great dinner was served by the chefs, and on a full stomach, many retired early for another good night’s sleep.
February 19: Enroute to the Ross Sea
The weather deteriorated late last night which caused the ship to move around and roll quite a bit. Some didn’t get a full night’s sleep but all were still in good spirits at breakfast time as they held their cereal bowls to stop the milk from spilling. The morning’s activities in the lecture theatre were postponed as the seas were still quite rough so a relaxing morning was had, with many catching up on lost sleep from the night before. After a delicious lunch, it was decided that the lecture room was now safe again as the rolling had abated quite a bit so first up was Rodney with a briefing on what our plans in the Ross Sea would be. He showed ice and weather maps of the area so that we could get an idea of what to expect over the next couple of weeks. After this, we watched a documentary called The Silence Calling, which celebrates 50 years of Australian research on Antarctic bases. The bar opened in the evening and a drink and chat was welcomed by many; the first iceberg had still not been spotted and stakes were getting higher for those that had guessed we would see it tomorrow.
February 20: Enroute to the Ross Sea
It was a lot cooler this morning. Sea surface temperature was now around 1 degree and the outside temperature colder still. The wind had swung to the north and provided us with a following sea speeding up our progress south and we were now cruising at an average of 12.5 knots. All this meant another fantastic day in the Southern Ocean! Dean gave a great lecture on the biology and ecology of cetaceans and how to best spot and identify them. This sparked great interest on decks and we all went out with new knowledge to try and glimpse one of the ocean giants for ourselves. At 11:24am the ship was cruising through some thick fog when we spotted our first iceberg for the trip. Everyone rushed out to see this first sign of the frozen continent: it was a non-tabular berg, big enough to qualify for the contest (being bigger than a London double decker bus). Liz was the winner of the competition and she was awarded a bottle of wine for her good guessing efforts.
After lunch Tess provided us with an excellent talk on icebergs and the origin of ice, so we then all spent more time on deck and on the bridge spotting icebergs through the mist, using our new found terminology.
At about 6:30pm we all made our way to the bridge. A special moment was at hand. At latitude 66.33.66 is the Antarctic Circle, the true boundary for the frozen continent. Crossing this frontier was a privilege that few of us had encountered before. In a scene not unlike a New Year’s Eve party, we all assembled to watch the various GPS displays count down the minutes of latitude. 64, 65, 66.34’S Hooray! Rodney announced the news and invited us on deck where we would join a select minority of the world’s population: very few have ever gone so far south.
On the bow we all met, with mugs in our hands and warm, warm clothing. To aid in celebration Nikki and Brad had concocted a special mulled wine, steaming hot and ready to serve to us out in the cold conditions. Cups full we listened to Rodney induct us into this special group and we all made an oath that we would do all we could to protect and conserve this incredible part of our planet for future generations for with opportunity comes responsibility. We all cheered and drank our wine.
In Rodney’s words:
“By anyone’s standards this event is an auspicious occasion – very few people have crossed the Antarctic Circle by ship. So we want to both celebrate the occasion and acknowledge its importance.
Today each of us joins a unique group of explorers that have gone before us, not only showing us the way but giving us the courage to follow and to make our own destiny. We follow explorers such as Sir James Clark Ross, Robert Falcon Scott, Sir Ernest Shackleton, Roald Amundsen, Sir Douglas Mawson, Richard Byrd, Sir Edmund Hilary and others that pioneered new routes south of the circle. Today we acknowledge them and their efforts.
Crossing the Circle also carries with it a responsibility – a responsibility that those explorers who went before us took seriously which is part of the reason that we are here today. They advocated for the protection of these lands and the wildlife that inhabited them, ensuring that future generations would have them to enjoy.
So today as we cross the circle I would like each of you to take this vow and receive the Mark of the Penguin – as evidence that you have crossed the Antarctic Circle and have taken the pledge which I am going to ask you to say after me.
Having endured the privations of the Roaring Forties, the rigors of the Furious Fifties and the ice-strewn waters of the Screaming Sixties to cross the Antarctic Circle, pay homage to those early explorers who have not only shown the way, but have demonstrated what it means to advocate for the continued protection of Antarctica and its wildlife and history. I [repeat your own name] hereby pledge that in accepting the Mark of the Penguin I will, until I take my last expedition, advocate to everybody, even those who will not listen, the importance of the Antarctic and its wildlife and history.
Would you please step forward to receive the Mark of the Penguin”
Dean was ready and waiting with the Mark of the Penguin which he stamped on each of us and we wore these badges of honour proudly into the night. After yet another incredible meal we lay to rest another day in the beautiful Southern Ocean... but this time we slept in the Antarctic!
February 21: Enroute to the Ross Sea, Cape Adare
Well, we woke this morning to fog, fog and more fog. The ship was still heading south at a good speed and even though the outside temperatures had dropped, there was less ice around than the day before.
First up this morning Rodney alerted us all to a very important issue: the illegal Tooth Fishing industry that takes place in the Ross Sea Region. It is sometimes called the ‘Last Ocean on Earth’ when in its pristine state. He showed two documentaries and we all left a little saddened with the world we live in: a world that demands a fish for our culinary pleasure, not considering where it comes from, what it looks like and what is its plight. Very enlightening! Thank you to Rodney and The Last Ocean Campaign.
In the afternoon a great documentary on Adelie Penguins was screened downstairs and then Rodney gave a briefing on Antarctica, preparing us for our imminent landing at Cape Adare.
After a delicious meal from the chefs we dropped anchor. Rodney made the decision to land this evening, as the weather was quite good, and conditions aren’t always great here. We went ashore and stepped foot onto the icy continent for the first time. Many enjoyed going through Borchgrevink’s hut and seeing all of the historic memorabilia. There were also a few last remaining Adelie Penguins wandering around so people got to get a great first look at these quirky little birds. It started getting quite dark at 11:30pm so everyone returned to the ship for a warm cuppa and bed. A fantastic first landing was had by all, and I’m sure many of us dreamed of those beautiful little Adelies that night.
February 22: Enroute to McMurdo Sound
Snow, snow everywhere! This morning the decks were covered in several centimetres of snow that had fallen all night, as we found ourselves now in cold, cold waters. 0.2 was the water temperature, while the outside temperature showed only 0.3, with a wind chill of approx -9.8. On decks now was only for the very brave and not to be attempted without gloves and beanie - the icy winds are quick to draw away all your heat. Out in the Ross Sea the winds picked up significantly and the waves seemed to be getting a bit bigger again. The wind kept picking up throughout the day and by about 7pm we were getting gusts of up to 50knots. Due to the strong winds there was less ice in the seas and some fog had returned.
We were now being led into the south by Antarctic and Snow Petrels, two types of beautiful birds who play around on the winds created by the ship with very little effort. They cruised past all of the windows on the ship making sure we could all see them in their habits. They were feeding all the time on tiny organisms on the surface of the water and seemed to be doing very well indeed.
Some bad news was brought to the ship this afternoon when we were notified of a large earthquake hitting Christchurch; the afternoon’s lectures were postponed and people spent time contacting loved ones in the area.
The bar was opened in the early evening and it was a nice release for some who had endured a difficult afternoon. Another delicious dinner was served by the chefs as we rolled our way south through the Ross Sea.
February 23: Enroute to McMurdo Sound
We awoke this morning to the ship rolling quite substantially – in the heart of a storm blowing from the south and with waves up to 8m high.
Most people braved it to breakfast but were soon back in bunks as Rodney had suggested that this was the safest place to be in seas like this. Not too long after breakfast Rodney announced over the loudspeaker that Maritime NZ had contacted us about a distress signal being released further south, near Ross Island. It seemed that there was a 14m Norwegian yacht in that area and their emergency positioning device had been activated. At this stage no one had been able to get in contact with the yacht and we had been asked to make our way to the area to assist in a search. The Steve Urwin, another ship, was also in the Ross Sea and also heading in the same direction to offer assistance. However, with the sea conditions the way they were, it was estimated that we wouldn’t get there until tomorrow afternoon sometime.
The sea conditions didn’t abate during the day so people held tight in their bunks. Due to the low air temperature, a lot of the water sprayed onto the ship had frozen onto the steel, creating a thick layer of ice on all of the outside surfaces.
Brad and Nicki did very well to serve us up a meal in these trying conditions and shortly after dinner people were back in the safety of their bunks. Rodney told us that this was the worst storm he had ever seen in this region of the Ross Sea, but I’m not sure if that made us feel better or worse!
February 24: Enroute to McMurdo Sound
After a very hard night’s sleep spent hanging on in our bunks due to the continuing rough sea conditions, quite a few made it for breakfast. Again it was a tricky meal, people hanging on to cereal bowels and trying not to slide off their seats at the same time. All survived though and headed straight back to their bunks for shelter shortly afterwards. The sea conditions were just as bad as the day before and now even more ice had frozen to the decks. The Spirit of Enderby was now looking like a different ship covered in this thick layer of white ice.
The search for the Norwegian yacht was still on and we were notified that the Steve Urwin vessel had now started to search in the area. They were searching by ship and by helicopter but hadn’t found anything in the ocean so far.
At around 3pm our sea conditions finally started improving and by 4:30pm it was hard to believe we had ever been in such a storm. The seas were calm enough for the crew to get out on deck and start chipping ice off surfaces. Everyone felt relieved to be in much calmer waters once again.
At about 5pm in the afternoon our ship reached the area we had been allocated to search and began a grid search between Franklin and Beaufort Islands. We searched all through the evening and night in a zig zag pattern going north to south.
February 25: Cape Royds and Cape Evans
After searching in vain through the night for the Norwegian yacht Berserk, our part of the search finished at 5:30am after completing our assigned search area. Nothing had been found; the Steve Urwin was to continue searching for a little longer today.
Rodney woke us this morning at 5:30am telling us about the spectacular sight of Mount Erebus. Sure enough, once we’d all managed to drag ourselves out of our warm beds and up to the bridge we soon realised it was well worth it. Wow. There it was right before our eyes, in perfect view, no clouds, nothing to stop us seeing the immense volcano. It was beautiful. We could see steam rising from its summit, and at 13000 feet this active volcano sure was impressive. We were at Cape Royds, the site of the Shackleton Nimrod expedition. This section of the Ross Sea was stunning. The Trans-Antarctic Mountains were clearly visible, running the length of our vision across the body of water opposite Cape Royds. Their sharp peaks were separated by countless glaciers. This was rugged country.
The anchor was dropped in Back Door Bay just off Cape Royds and the staff went ashore in the Zodiacs to cut some steps into the ice for our landing. It was an interesting landing, climbing off the front of the Zodiac onto a 2 meter high ice shelf. Once all were safely ashore and standing on strong ice we marched off as a group towards the historic hut. The site was a fascinating mixture of volcanic rock, Adelie Penguin colonies and the manmade relics. The hut was in good condition and had been partially restored - inside it was different to the other huts we had been into. It had a very homely feel to it with a couch and a very large living area. We explored its contents in great detail and even found Shackleton’s own signature on one of the bed heads. Once finished we marched again across the ice and back to the ship where the captain took her toward Cape Evans.
Still with beautiful blue skies and sunshine, we couldn’t have asked for better weather for the day. Ahead lay Cape Evans with a stunning backdrop supplied by Mount Erebus. After a bite of lunch we lowered Zodiacs and moved swiftly to the small gravel beach where we landed right near Scott’s Hut. This was the site of Scott’s last expedition and the hut itself was in incredibly good condition, although it has been restored to some degree. Outside was no shortage of interesting artefacts to look at and the terrain was fun to explore. Inside though was most certainly the highlight. As you walked through the doorway you immediately stepped back in time to 100 years ago, when Scott and his men mounted their campaign for the South Pole and the collection of scientific data that would help shape our understanding of this frozen continent. There were bottles on the shelves, pairs of socks on the beds, Ponting’s darkroom, Scott’s den, scientific samples and papers of the day. It really was a highlight of many of our lives to be right here in the very spot that these men had lived and worked, laughed and eaten and wintered the brutal Antarctic conditions. Dogs were to be found - long dead - but still with collars on and chained to railings; seal blubber stored for burning, stables and workspaces intact. There were some Adelie Penguins and Weddell Seals scattered around the site and most people got an opportunity to spend some time with these little characters. Rodney surprised us all by helping Allegra and Adrian to renew their wedding vows right there on the ice. All too soon it was time to leave and we crossed the bay back to the ship.
Just after returning, we got a brief visit from the Sea Shepherd ship the Steve Urwin as it sailed by before heading home to Hobart. Waving goodbye to them we headed up to the bar to drink champagne and celebrate with Adrian and Allegra while the ship made its way further into McMurdo Sound toward McMurdo Station. We were to stay in the turning basin here and what a fantastic place to spend the end of a truly spectacular day.
February 26: Cape Bird and Ross Ice Shelf
We awoke early this morning to the sound of the ship’s engines starting. A catabatic wind had blown in over night and started moving the ice around in McMurdo Sound - Rodney and the Captain decided it was too risky to stay as the risk of getting trapped by ice at this time of the year is very real. So our visit to the McMurdo and Scott Bases was cancelled for today and we steamed out of the sound as quickly as possible. Around Cape Evans we were in more safe and sheltered waters, the ship cut its engines and we drifted for a while. The weather outside was truly Antarctic with strong winds and the outside wind-chill temperature as low as -32 °C. A few people braved going out on deck for a few minutes just to feel how cold it can really get down here. After drifting for a while and assessing the weather forecasts, Rodney made the decision to start heading east towards the Ross Ice Shelf. After lunch we had made it as far as Cape Bird and the conditions here were quite a lot better than those further to the west. The staff got the Zodiacs in the water and started ferrying people to the beach to stretch their legs on this beautiful piece of coast. Along the shore of the beach were many spectacular rolled icebergs washed up. As we wandered up and down it was fantastic to be able to get such a close look at this pure glacial ice. There were quite a few Adelie Penguins around for people to look at and one very friendly one who came right over to the life jacket bins and stood with the group as they put their life jackets on. It was very curious and looked at us as if it wasn’t scared at all. There were also some Weddell Seals relaxing on the ice and many Antarctic Skuas in the air; some of the Skuas still had mature chicks with them so a few of the visitors found themselves dive-bombed and followed by these cheeky birds.
We were all back on board the ship and off towards the ice shelf again by about 3:30pm. At 4 o’clock Rodney gave a very interesting lecture downstairs covering some of the history in the Ross Sea from the last two centuries. Afterwards a lazy afternoon was spent while we made our way further east.
We arrived at the ice wall just after dinner. It was massive and stretched for many miles out to sea. Along its face were a myriad of caves and sculptures created by the violent weather conditions of the area. Off to the east were icebergs that had recently calved off. All in all it was a spectacular way to end another incredible day in Antarctica! To top it off, as we sailed away from the ice shelf a pod of Orca was spotted in the distance showing some feeding behaviour. They were viewed by many tired eyes through binoculars before people headed off to bed for the night.
February 27: McMurdo Station and Scott Base
We were up for an early start this morning and much to everyone’s delight found ourselves anchored back in McMurdo Sound. The weather was much calmer than the day before, though air temperatures remained low, with the outside temperature at -11°C. Brrrrrrrr chilly! After a quick breakfast and a briefing by Rodney we all rugged up in many layers and prepared to go ashore for the day.
It began with a tour around the American station, with some of the highlights being the science lab, the coffee shop, the chapel and of course the souvenir shop. After spending the morning with the very accommodating Americans we then got picked up in 4WD’s and taken over the icy hill to Scott Base where we got a taste of Kiwi culture. Some very kind guides showed us around this smaller but homely base. We got to see some historic artefact restoration underway and even visited Sir Edmund Hilary’s TAE hut which had many interesting historic stories. Back in the 4WD’s we were taken back over the hill to the famous Discovery Hut, where Shackleton and his men had spent long, cold, dark hours all those years ago. By this time it was mid-afternoon and some people were starting to feel the cold. A brisk walk back to the Zodiacs warmed everyone up before groups were ferried back to the ship for a hot cuppa and a warm shower.
Later in the afternoon, once everyone was back on board, we had some visitors from Scott Base. Some of the lovely base residents came to the ship for a tour, a warm scone and a chat in the bar.
A game - and maybe slightly crazy - group assembled at 6pm to climb to the top of Observation Hill. Rugged up in many layers and prepared for the freezing winds at the top, the group went ashore and proceeded in their ascent. The view from the top was spectacular, a 360 degree view over McMurdo Sound, the vast Ice Shelf and those mind-blowing Trans-Antarctic mountains. It was cold, and the wind chill on top was -30°C, our eyelashes formed crystals and froze together so we didn’t hang around up there for too long. A quick descent and back across the bay and we were back on the ship just after 7:30pm - a record-breaking time to the top and back.
As we ate a delicious meal prepared by the chefs, the captain pulled anchor and we started to sail further south. As soon as dinner was finished, all passengers were up on the bridge or out on decks to watch the Spirit of Enderby get as far south as it had ever been in McMurdo Sound. At 9:30pm we made it to 77°54.1166’S and 166°39.5714’E where the water temperature was -0.4°C and the air temperature was -10°C. It was only possible to get this far south because the ice in the sound had broken back further than it had done in 15 years. As we came to our most southern point, a huge group of Emperor Penguins (approx 60 birds) appeared on an ice floe up ahead. The captain slowly inched the ship closer until, on the bow, we were just meters from these majestic birds. This was a highlight for many on the trip: to see this many Emperor Penguins here at this time of the year is so rare that it was hard to believe it was real. On the ice and in the water around the Emperors were also many Snow Petrels feeding off something on the sea’s surface. Flocks of these stunning pure white birds flew around the ship and gave us a chance to really appreciate their beauty.
Conditions remained calm as we left the south of the sound and Captain sailed the ship north, on a course towards Terra Nova Bay. All were very weary from the eventful day and it was finally time to rest. It had been a spectacular evening and a perfect way to finish off another amazing day down here in Antarctica.
February 28: Drygalski Ice Tongue and Terra Nova Bay
We all enjoyed a bit of a lie-in this morning and awoke to Marie telling us about the beautiful calm day outside. Sure enough, we were sailing through millpond conditions with pancake ice all around the ship. As we made our way north throughout the morning many photographs were taken of the fascinating ice forming on the sea’s surface. This was the beginning of the freeze! It looked like we’d timed it well, as it was obvious that the Ross Sea was beginning to freeze over for the winter. We would be north of it just in time.
The last episode of the documentary Last Place on Earth played during the morning and all watching bid a sad farewell to Scott and his three companions. After lunch Rodney gave a very interesting talk on whaling in the Ross Sea in the early 1900’s, accompanied by a short documentary. A couple of hours later and a little further north, a documentary called Solid Water, Liquid Rock screened downstairs. This was a film by TVNZ on Mt Erebus, the breathtakingly-beautiful mountain that we’d all been staring at for the last few days.
We continued heading north throughout the day and at just after 6:00pm arrived at Inexpressible Island. This was where Scott’s northern Terra Nova party got stranded and had to spend 8 months in an ice cave. You could see from the ship how harsh and unforgiving the landscape was: it gets its name because it was ‘inexpressibly uninhabitable’. The staff went ashore in the Zodiacs but couldn’t find a safe place to land so the decision was made to continue up the coast towards the Italian Base. We arrived shortly after dinner but there was a huge iceberg sitting right in the bay blocking our landing position. We cruised past the base but unfortunately were not able to go ashore. The Italians had all left for the winter time and it was an empty base so we weren’t disappointing anyone onshore.
It was another lovely evening in Antarctica, if a little chilly outside, and most people lapped up the beauty before hitting the sack for a calm night’s rest. Next stop Campbell Island!
March 1: Enroute to Campbell Island
This morning we awoke to the ship rolling a little bit, conditions weren’t too bad but it was strange being out of the dead calm seas that we had become used to over the last few days. The ship was set on a course for Campbell Island and overnight we had come far enough north that we were no longer seeing any icebergs in the water as we travelled. It was a strange feeling to be in the open ocean again, slightly lonely without those beautiful white bergs around.
In the late morning Katya gave a very entertaining lecture on the ‘Arctic VS Antarctic’ taking a look into the two polar regions, and the differences between them. It was fantastic to learn a little more about the northern polar region and compare it to what we’d been seeing on this trip.
At 12:51pm we gathered in the bar and had two minutes of silence to pay tribute to those affected by and the lives lost in the earthquake that hit Christchurch the week before.
After lunch we stepped back in time with a documentary called With Byrd to the South Pole, about the ‘Little America’ expedition party. This was an older piece of film covering the trials and tribulations of the Americans and their trip to the South Pole. Later in the afternoon Rodney gave a lecture on the Antarctic Treaty System and how it plays a role in the tourism industry in the area.
In the evening we opened up the bar and had a drink and a chat with fellow passengers. A Ross Sea recap was held, questions were asked and answered and everyone got the chance to review our fantastic Ross Sea experience.
It was a good turn out to dinner and many retired to their cabins early to catch up on rest as we continued our journey north.
March 2: Enroute to Campbell Island
Many were relieved to awake this morning to somewhat calmer seas. We were at the approximate equal latitude to Cape Adare when breakfast was served and thankfully the seas had definitely abated quite a bit. We noticed throughout the morning that there were many more sea birds around the ship this morning, including the first of our Light Mantled Sooty Albatross and a lot of petrels and prions.
First up on the programme this morning was the documentary Scott and Shackleton, Rivals for the Pole - a fantastic take on both Scott and Shackleton’s stories and the differences and difficulties they faced on their journeys south.
Later in the morning, and very fitting for today, Tessa gave us a very informative lecture on albatross in the Southern Ocean and how we can distinguish which birds we were looking at. We were all looking forward to getting to Campbell Island now, which is home to many albatross species, including the wonderful Southern Royal.
After lunch Nicki and Brad gave a tour of the galley: it was great to see behind the scenes and be able to see the space in which these two produce such delicious meals day after day.
Later in the afternoon part one of Longitude was screened downstairs – this is a series on the first reliable measurement of longitude, which changed forever how we navigate the seas.
The bar opened in the early evening and another lovely meal was shared downstairs for dinner. All expected to sleep well tonight as the sea conditions were still quite calm heading north.
March 3: Enroute to Campbell Island
We awoke at 8am to Rodney on the loudspeaker telling us that we were in a Category One storm. This meant that the sea had strengthened once again - the ship was certainly a lot more animated than yesterday. We were told that there would be no going outside at all and that all lower level port holes would be fully fastened down by the crew. But the salty old sea dogs were doing well -nowhere near the incidence of sea-sickness that we had encountered when we began our journey. Lectures and movies were out of the question today as the ship was just too active so it was another day of books, photos and movies in our bunks. I can think of worse ways to spend a day The staff put together a very comical quiz and many guests spent the afternoon in the bar/library area participating and having a good laugh. The bar was opened in the evening, and people hung on tight as they sipped their drinks. Dinner was slightly fast and furious, as it always is in these conditions, but still a good turn out considering the circumstances. We hoped that tomorrow the storm may have passed but, still, we were heading steadily north and with the wind behind us, were making good time.
March 4: Enroute to Campbell Island
This morning we awoke to slightly calmer seas. Everyone was relieved to see that the storm conditions had dropped off over night.
After breakfast, Dean kicked the morning off with a lecture on the research that he and Tessa performed while living on Macquarie Island for two summers. They lived there between 2008 and 2010 and spent 6 months each summer working very closely with the Fur Seal population on the island. After the seals were wiped out almost to extinction in the 1800’s the resident population on the island is recovering very slowly; we all learnt a lot about the work that Dean and Tessa carried out and a lot about these beautiful marine mammals.
After a delicious lunch we handed back our warm Antarctic jackets - back in the 60’s we would no longer need such heavy clothing. At 3pm the Sea Shop was opened up by Marie for anyone that needed some last minute shopping before our last week at sea.
The bar opened in the early evening for some drinks and fun and after a somewhat calmer meal, a Friday night movie was shown downstairs. The night finished off with a viewing of the hilarious Australian film The Castle. Many laughs were enjoyed by all who attended.
March 5: Enroute to Campbell Island
The seas had remained quite calm over night, which was a relief to many. As we headed further north, the sea and outside air temperatures climbs each day. This morning the outside air temperature was up to 10°C and the water a balmy 6°C.
This morning’s activities started off with a documentary on Shackleton’s Endurance expedition. The story outlined the hardships endured by Shackleton and his men on an expedition that went so wrong. It furthered our appreciation for modern day sailing and all of the gadgets that go with it.
Later in the morning Katya gave a talk on the Russian Far East, another of Heritage Expeditions’ voyage destinations. The Spirit of Enderby heads north in early April and spends the Northern Summer in the Northern Hemisphere. This talk perhaps inspired a few people to start planning their next big trip, maybe in the north this time.
After lunch Rodney presented an introduction to Campbell Island. This included plenty of great history and wildlife stories and we learnt about what we could expect over the next couple of days at the island. After Rodney’s lecture a short documentary called Battle for Campbell Island was screened downstairs. This is a homemade documentary on the famous rat eradication programme which was undertaken on the island in 2001. It was very interesting to learn about the eradication and to hear that the island is recovering from the removal of this pest so well.
The bar opened in the evening and we all enjoyed a drink and a chat while we could - the forecast was that sea conditions were going to ‘pick up’ overnight. After a great meal we retired to try and get some rest before we started rolling again.
March 6: Land ho!! Col-Lyall Saddle at Campbell Island
Well, sure enough, the forecast was correct and we began rolling once again in the early hours of this morning. We were awoken by Rodney at 7:30am on the loudspeaker warning us to take extreme care when moving around, as the ship was getting hit by seas beam on. Breakfast was an interesting event. People managed very well as they clung to plates and cups and stayed upright all at the same time.
Because of the conditions most people spent the morning in their cabins and bunks where they could stay safe and horizontal.
We were finally able to see Campbell Island in the distance at about 11am and by 1pm were coming up to the south side of the island. Refuge at last! We ate lunch in the shelter of the east coast and then did some ‘chumming’ off the back deck. Thousands of Southern Royal Albatross, Campbell Island Mollymawks and other seabirds followed the ship as we cruised along the eastern side of the island.
When the chum was all gone the ship headed for Perseverance Harbour. Coming to anchor here in the sheltered waters of the harbour and just off Beaman Base, the old weather station, people felt great relief to be still at last. This afternoon, most people came ashore and stretched their legs on the wonderful boardwalk that takes one up to the Col-Lyall saddle; here we sat and watched the elegant Southern Royal Albatross. Many birds sat on chicks and the younger ones that were around showed some great displays of gamming. They truly are a magnificent bird and to be able to just sit and watch them is a very special treat.
Everyone was back on board the ship by 8pm for a late dinner and a nice calm sleep in the sheltered waters of Perseverance Harbour.
March 7: Campbell Island
Everyone awoke excited this morning as a day of great activities was ahead of us. It was a wonderful day for a tramp, a few light showers, but mostly a very pleasant Subantarctic temperature. One group of walkers covered an 8hr circuit that took them over to North West bay where they had spectacular views down the coast, saw a research hut and walked for hours along beautiful hillsides past many albatross. It was enjoyed by all even if there were a few tired legs that evening.
The other option for the day was to participate in a Zodiac cruise in the morning and to do the boardwalk again in the afternoon. The cruise took us past many historical spots including the Old Homestead, the Loneliest Tree in the World, the Lady of the Heather and Venus bay. There were some very friendly sea lions in the water this morning too, and they followed the boats for a long time, playfully swimming right up to the back of the boat and jumping high out of the water. What a display! If was truly great to see these beautiful mammals playing and having so much fun - it also made us realise just how graceful and agile they are underwater.
After the Zodiac cruise we came back to the ship to warm up for a couple of hours and have some lunch and a hot cuppa out of the wind and weather. In the mid-afternoon those that still had energy and were feeling adventurous headed back over to Beaman Base and headed back up the boardwalk to Col-Lyall. It rained throughout the afternoon, but we still got another good look at those beautiful birds - with temperatures not too cold some people hung around for quite a while taking photos and enjoying being on the island.
Everyone was back on board the ship by 7:30pm and at 8pm the sub-polar plunge took place. Ten people jumped from the ship into the icy waters of Perseverance Harbour, at approx 10°C, to help raise money for the Last Oceans fund. It was a great effort by all involved.
After such a big day most people had their dinner and then retired weary and content. Goodbye Campbell Island - we would be setting sail once again at midnight tonight.
March 8: Enroute to Lyttelton Harbour
The last leg! We awoke this morning to pretty calm seas and good conditions as we sailed north. We departed Campbell Island at midnight last night and now had about 3 days sailing ahead of us for the last leg of the journey.
This morning’s activities started of with Bruce, our government representative, showing us a short documentary and giving us a talk on the Campbell Island Flightless Teal. Bruce has been involved in a reintroduction programme, bringing these unique birds back onto the main Campbell Island after pests were eradicated there. It was a very interesting movie and talk and there were lots of questions for Bruce at the end as everyone was very interested in the programme.
After lunch another New Zealand documentary was screened downstairs, this one about the ever elusive Kiwi Bird. There was a good turnout in the theatre and all enjoyed learning more about these beautiful native birds.
Later on in the afternoon Katya gave a talk on Polar Bears and the threats that they face. It was a consuming presentation and sparked many conversations about the issue.
The bar opened early this evening as the staff had prepared a cocktail party. The bar was decorated up with snow flakes and everyone came dressed as something reminding them of their time in Antarctica. Some crazy concoctions were created by the staff behind the bar and the chefs brought up platters of tasty snacks. Dinner was served downstairs later on and many were still in their creative costumes. A good time was had by all!
March 9: Enroute to Lyttelton Harbour
This morning, during the wakeup call, Marie announced that the air temperature was up to 12°C and the water temperature a balmy 12.5°C. This showed that we were moving north at a steady speed now, and it wouldn’t be too long before we were off the coast of mainland New Zealand.
During the morning, Ridgeway gave a talk on his time spent in Antarctica. It was a great way for people to understand what it’s like to live on an Antarctic station and to learn about the logistics of living in such a remote location.
The weather just got better and better during the day: we had sunshine, blue skies and glassy seas as we headed north along the coast of mainland New Zealand. Just before lunch a Humpback Whale was spotted off the starboard side, surfacing a few times to give people a great view.
After lunch many people headed up to the monkey deck to enjoy the warm sunshine. We were approaching the Otago Peninsula and there were still some albatross and other seabirds following the boat and quite a few Fur Seals lounging on the water’s surface as we glided past. It was lovely to be outside and enjoying such nice weather.
Later in the afternoon Bruce gave a talk on the Yellow-eyed Penguin, the second rarest bird in the world and one of New Zealand’s more protected species. Bruce has spent many years assisting in the research of these birds and was able to give us a really good idea of what is happening to their local population.
After a group photograph taken on the ship’s bow, the bar was opened and it was a lovely flat day to sit and have a drink and socialise with fellow passengers. Another great meal was served by the chefs and everybody went to bed happy to be in calm waters for the night.
March 10: Enroute to Lyttelton Harbour
Well, our last day at sea. This morning we awoke as the ship sailed along the coast of the Banks Peninsula. Marie announced that the outside air temperature was up to 16°C and the water temperature up to 14.5°C, significantly warmer than anything we’d felt for a month.
In the late morning we all gathered downstairs for our final briefing. Rodney led an expedition recap and then we all enjoyed watching a fantastic visual presentation that the staff had put together. Seeing the photos of all of the places we’d been over the last month brought back so many great memories. What a way to recall all of our experiences, and what an amazing trip it had been.
After lunch Marie settled up accounts as we got to the heads of Lyttelton Harbour. We anchored with several other ships just off the heads, it was a calm day with blue skies and warm temperatures. It felt HOT to all of us, who had spent the last month south.
That evening we enjoyed a final night dinner. Once again, and for the last time, the chefs put together a delicious meal. Everybody talked of the trip and of the experiences they’d shared. Most people went to bed with a full belly and a smile, ready for the final wake-up call early tomorrow morning.
March 11: Port of Lyttelton, end of trip
This morning we awoke to find the ship tied up to the wharf in Lyttelton Harbour. After breakfast and immigration formalities, we boarded our bus and set off on the journey home. The trip had been a great success and all will carry their own memories as they go their separate ways. You are of the lucky few to see these incredible places and it is our hope that you become advocates for their future protection. Thanks for travelling with us and we hope to see you again on a Heritage Expedition in the future!
