1821: Russia's Ring of Fire 14 Jun 2018
Day 1: Thursday 14 June
Port of Korsakov – Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk
Lat/Long 0600 46°37N 142°46E
Finally the moment had arrived: We had reached the Mega Palace Hotel, Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, Russian Far East and were bound for some of the least accessible and seldom-visited islands in the world. We tried surreptitiously to spot our fellow passengers-to-be, but it wasn’t difficult: The hiking clothes, sturdy walking shoes, small backpacks and binoculars gave them away.
Birding guide Chris Collins met us in the morning, checked us in and made sure we and all our luggage got on board the bus to Port of Korsakov, an hour away. With the low cloud, four degree temperature, bitter north wind and rain, it was hard to believe that it was June. Another surprise was the collection of abandoned military tanks we passed, haphazardly standing in a meadow.
Korsakov is a small port town with busted streets, a collection of shops (hardware was the largest) and rectangular 4-storey Soviet-era apartment blocks, their wall panels painted geometrically with bright colours. Once at the wharf, we climbed the gangway to the Professor Khromov, a.k.a. Spirit of Enderby, where staff welcomed us, crew took our luggage, and we were shown to our cosy cabins; home for the next 2 weeks.
We pulled away from the concrete pier and were underway! We wrapped up warmly and went out on deck to take in our new surroundings; low green hills with patches of snow, disappearing into low cloud, with an endless procession of Short-tailed Shearwaters streaming past the ship.
The rest of the afternoon was spent on orientation and safety briefings; safety around the ship; how to get in and out of a Zodiac; lifeboat drill (“If you hear 7 long and one short alarm, followed by ‘Abandon ship! Abandon ship!’ go to your cabin, pick up your lifejacket, a warm blanket and your personal medications, then go immediately to the lifeboat station...”). This was followed by a practical drill which involved clambering into the lifeboats together and closing the lid – a confined experience we hoped never to need again!
As soon as we reached the open sea we hit large rolling swells on our aft beam, the remnants of a recent cyclone near Japan, which made the ship roll widely and corkscrew slightly. The combination made for a very empty bar and dining room, in spite of the beautiful dinner options of lamb rack or salmon served up by chefs Bruce and Ed. Dr Lin had a busy evening dishing up seasickness tablets.
We are a combination of Russian, Dutch, Belgian, British, American, Australian, New Zealand, French and Malaysian passengers; slightly over half of us are here specifically in pursuit of birds; this being a productive and hard to reach part of the world. The birders carry binoculars, or ‘bins’ and cameras with long lenses most of the time, and remain in a constant state of bird-readiness at all times.
Day 2: Friday 15 June
Kurilskiy Reserve – Kunashir Island
Lat/Long 0600 44°28N 146°41E
Most of us woke feeling jaded after a night rolling around in our beds, but at least most appetites were back. Great excitement preceded our first Zodiac outing straight after breakfast; 1.5km from the ship to shore at Kurilskiy Reserve, a ‘zapovednik’, the strictest form of natural protected area in Russia. (The ship was unable to get close to shore because of the shallow surrounding waters). Three local Russian rangers met us on the beach and one went with each of our three walking the groups; the Serious Birders; then those who like to stretch out on a walk, and finally those who prefer an easy walk. In the event, everyone had a solid walk and saw a combination of rocky shoreline, beach, lush meadows, dense stands of thigh-high Kuril bamboo and mixed spruce, birch, and alder forest. The flowers were just coming out, including beautiful mauve-crimson keyflower orchids (Dactylorhiza aristata).
Small green and brown frogs hopped off the track into the bamboo, the northernmost naturally occurring bamboo in the world. One of the group spotted a Red Fox, another group its lair. White-tailed Sea-Eagles patrolled the coastal terraces, one swooping low over the waves, talons outstretched, but failing to snatch a fish. The frigid offshore wind on the way to the island had switched 180 degrees as we were ashore, to give us a head wind back to the ship as well. We were well ready for lunch and a warm-up.
Captain Alexander repositioned the ship while we ate lunch, so we could head back out for a Zodiac cruise around Rogachev Island, a small, cliffed island populated with large numbers of Tufted Puffins (mostly underground incubating eggs in their burrows) and Spectacled Guillemots, distinguished by their high cry, red legs, white ‘spectacled’ faces and black bodies. Half a dozen large White-tailed Sea Eagles with dramatically splayed wing-tip feathers soared along the cliff tops, a couple spiralling down to land in a large poplar tree. Last week’s cyclone is still creating large residual swells, but conditions are steadily improving.
Once back on board, we set a course toward Iturup Island, sailing through the strait separating it from Kunashir before heading up Iturup’s west coast.
Photo credit: D. Brown
Day 3: Saturday 16 June
Iturup Island
Lat/Long 0600 45°1N 147°51E
We anchored off the township of Kurilsk, Iturup Island in the early morning, which dawned promisingly fine and clear.
After leaving the ship by Zodiac after breakfast, we arrived on the beach and 15 waiting 4WD’s, driven by local men. After dividing ourselves into ‘hard core birders’ and generalists, the former made their way to the hot springs by a birdy and circuitous route; the latter more directly. The sealed road soon gave out to gravel as we climbed steeply up and over a 550 metre pass. Snow still lay on the shady faces on surrounding mountains.
Everywhere was heavily forested, the vegetation changing as we climbed from evergreen birch, maple, elm and oak; to alder, birch and larch, and finally to dwarf pine (Pinus pumila) on exposed ridges. We hopped out near the pass for a commanding view of the surrounding valleys and plains, completely forested from mountains to sea. Once over the pass we emerged onto a high plateau with a strange combination of trees; deep green Cajander’s larch scattered across the landscape, which all looked as though they had grown into a glass ceiling and flattened out. The locals said it was due to the winter load of snow and ice, which along with strong winter winds, allowed them to grow thus high and no further.
We drove past steaming, sulphurous vents in the volcanic mountainsides before parking and walking down to the Mt. Baranowski hot pools, a beautiful clear, tumbling stream of steaming water running through a series of pools and cataracts. Wonderful to lie back in a hot pool in such a natural, forested surrounds.
After eating our packed lunches some of us set out for the source of the hot river, a steaming cauldron of emerald green water emerging from the mountainside.
We drove back to the small local township of Kurilsk, a well turned out village perched on a terrace overlooking the sea; friendly well-fed dogs attentively watching the humans; four young girls daring each other to walk under a tree where a raven nested and occasionally chased them off; a wedding reception in full swing accompanied by loud cheering. The main industry for the locals is apparently fishing and fish-processing.
On our return to the ship we were treated to good numbers of Dall’s Porpoises chasing fish in the bay, with their characteristic fast, splashy surfacing and diving. After a recap of the day’s highlights in the bar we settled down to a tasty dinner; choice of thai curried salmon or braised pork.
Photo credit: D. Brown
Photo credit: Y. Mishina
Day 4: Sunday 17 June
Urup and Chirpoy Islands
Lat/Long N46o16’ E150o17’
Low cloud enveloped the island of Urup as we gently rocked offshore on glassy water. The Lighthouse keeper, stationed here alone for the past twelve years, cut the surface film as he motored towards us in his tiny Zodiac, no doubt pleased to see some new faces. He ran ahead of our Zodiacs to a black volcanic beach overlooked by The Thinker, also known as The Drinking Emperor, a head-like rock at the head of the bay. Free from any severe bear risk we were all able to explore at will; birding groups scattering into the scrub, and small groups fanning out across the ashen sand dunes, over the boulder beach and some more intrepid explorers forging the river and ascending to the lookout station. The dunes sheltered an almost garden-like mosaic of vegetation behind them; willow carr, swathes of giant butterburs and meadow sweets dominated across the wide U-shaped valley, its sides stretching up through vertically challenged deciduous trees. Snow fields punctuated the upper slopes, the last grasp of winter clinging to the landscape. At the back of the dunes an old village was being reclaimed by nature. In amongst the scrub Siberian Rubythroats with their gaudy pink-red throats sang in abundance, bubble-gum pink Long-tailed Rosefinches bounced from willow to willow and a soundscape of cuckoos, leaf-warblers and Brown-headed Thrushes created a tranquil, lush and verdant feel to the place. Stars of the show though were a pair of Red Foxes and their seven cubs (two red and five black). Unfazed by our masse arrival the adults displayed the most incredible and successful hunting tactic we have ever seen. With the tide dropping they methodically searched for large black fish, Aptocyclus ventricosus, among the rock pools catching one every five-minutes and returning along the track within a couple of metres of some passengers to their litter of cubs in one of the abandoned buildings. The cubs, completely nonplussed by our presence played and quarrelled outside their den, hankering after food and milk when the adults returned, a beautiful opportunity to watch intimate behaviour.
Leaving Urup behind us we departed into a smooth sea abundant in life. A productive five-minute period produced Short-tailed, Black-footed and Laysan Albatrosses whilst our first Sperm Whales, some distant Orcas and a pod of Dall’s Porpoise provided the cetacean interest. Out of the grey loomed Chirpoy. A stark, menacing, rugged volcano almost other-worldly. Fumaroles exhaled steam, the last gasps of life of the giant lava flows that once spilled into the Pacific. At first glance life is sparse; lichens, mosses and a few cushion plants clinging to the lava. The ocean has shaped these tumbling flows and many teamed with life, the site of seabird cities. Five Zodiacs cruised into action and we explored the jagged shore and fractured cliffs. Brünnich’s and Common Guillemots lined the narrow ledges whilst Black-legged Kittiwakes hunkered on precipices just above the splash zone, the swell surging and ebbing over boulders concealed beneath the surface. Our first ‘Kuril’ Guillemots also showed well, these birds likely a hybrid swarm between Pigeon Guillemot and Spectacled Guillemot. High above us Peregrine Falcons screamed their presence and a lone immature Steller’s Sea Eagle stood proud on the highest boulder, an appropriately dominating bird for such dramatic landscape. After a great Zodiac cruise we headed back to the ship and continued our journey north through the Kurils.
Photo credit: D. Brown
Photo credit: C. Todd
Photo credit: C. Todd
Day 5: Monday 18 June
Simushir and Yankicha Islands
Lat/Long N47o 04’ E151o 56’
Dawn broke and our target appeared, Simushir, a seemingly impenetrable caldera, a giant extinct volcano and in front of us a narrow kelp-strewn opening just a few meters deep, but importantly just deep enough to allow Submarines to pass through and into the inky, sheltered depths inside the caldera. Our Zodiacs slipped by the rusting hull and giant propeller of a beached former Soviet Sub as we made our away in and towards the abandoned Submarine base. Strategic, concealed, sheltered, this base proved an ideal location during the Cold War when up to 1000 military personnel were based here. The breakup of the Soviet Union led to the abandonment of the base in the early ‘90’s and now the eerie skeletal remains of the infrastructure is all that persists. A hospital, accommodation block, main operations building, cranes, transport vehicles, and hundreds of oil drums litter the hillside rusting and slowly crumbling as nature takes back control. Our five Zodiacs travelling in synchrony felt like an advance on the base, but there was no hostility to greet us, just wildlife reclaiming the concrete and metal. The sound of bird song was interspersed with the creaks of corrugated iron and yawns of steal as the buildings slowly weaken. Mocha-coloured Nutcrackers flecked with white spots bounded around the rooftops. A Bull-headed Shrike patrolled for Tundra Voles that strayed too far from their burrows and a Northern Grey Shrike put in a brief appearance. Pine Grosbeaks and Masked Buntings made their presence known amongst the stunted and contorted Birches. The re-wilding of this landscape has produced perfect conditions for a number of plants and Marsh and Butterfly Orchids together with Wedge-leaved Primroses, Wild Pansies, Violets and Dwarf Cornel injected pin-pricks of colour into the landscape.
Leaving Simushir we cruised north snaking our way between islands, the tops of volcano’s breaking through the hazy cloud. Several fishing trawlers were circled by tens of thousands of Fulmars many of which came to investigate us cruising slowly and almost within touching distance of us. The shout of “ORCA” went up and we found ourselves amongst by an extended pod of sixty Orca! Large males spliced the water with 2m-tall dorsal fins whilst females and calves broke the surface with energy and enthusiasm. The views were outstanding and prolonged and added to the Dall’s Porpoise and Sperm Whale already encountered. It wasn’t just cetaceans either. Laysan, Black-footed and Short-tailed Albatrosses were all seen, in fact all three species appeared within a five-minute window! Add to this thousands of Short-tailed Shearwaters and hundreds of auks and it made for a pretty impressive transit to our next destination.
It feels like each location gets increasingly more dramatic and spectacular, and Yankicha Island continued this trend. For many on-board this evening was what they were here for. The benign swell broke its back against the huge sea cliffs and imposing stacks around us turning a gentle sea into bursts of power as it forced into clefts and erupted up the cliffs. The ledges buzzed with Black-legged Kittiwakes, guillemots, and above them Fulmars. We waited. The tide was low and the shallow water and hidden boulders at the end entrance to the caldera prevented access. At 17:00pm with the tide flowing we launched our five Zodiacs and gently edged over the bar and into the crater. Inside the water was calm and intensely green. A duo of islands represented the old central volcanic cone and our Zodiacs cruised between them enjoying the inquisitive Arctic Foxes that were introduced here, before coming to rest of a sandy shore. A sulphurous fumarole billowed steam the air heavy with the characteristic eggy odour. We strolled up the shore to closer inspect the bubbling, spewing vents and take in the views of the caldera. Out to sea the action was building.
Back in the Zodiacs and we headed to the most open area of water nestled under the high rugged slopes. There in the centre of the water a tight black raft of Crested Auklets swirled on the surface with remarkable synchronicity chuckling away in a jovial harmony. This was the start of what can only be described as one of the world’s greatest seabird spectacles. Back out in the bay flock after flock after flock pitched and wheeled over the water. As the light dimmed they started flooding in over the boulder bar. Hundreds, thousands, tens of thousands. Numbers built as immense swirling clouds formed. Mist slipped from the summit of the crater rim down the slopes and as the flocks gained height they would temporarily vanish into the cloud bursting out again to tumble down the slopes as a huge snaking mass. The entire crater filled with what probably number over a million birds creating giant ribbons and streams of movement. The sound of whirring wings as thousands blurred past us at high speed will not be forgotten in a hurry and the whole experience was quite simply phenomenal. As the light dimmed further the first Whiskered Auklets arrived, their quirky facial styling, piercing white eyes and rose-bud beaks making an unmistakable combination. We headed back out into the bay where tens of thousands of Crested and Whiskered Auklets were still excitedly gathering ready to make the final push to their burrows on the crater walls, our Zodiacs bobbing among a sea of tiny black bodies. Finally lack of light and cold forced us back to the ship where a late dinner and warming drinking proved the perfect end to what can only be described as a sensational day.
Photo credit: D. Brown
Photo credit: D. Brown
Day 6: Tuesday 19 June
Ekarma and Onekatan Islands
Lat/Long N48o 59’ E153o 58E
The day dawned calm with glassy water. We were just off Ekarma, yet another volcano thrusting up from the seabed, its peak hidden in cloud and its cliffs teaming with life. We launched all five Zodiacs for a pre-breakfast cruise and headed inshore to explore the cliffs more thoroughly. Tufted and Horned Puffins showed beautifully in the soft morning light allowing close approach and some great photo opportunities. Similarly, Kuril Guillemots whistled and whirled on the waters surface. These little guys always seem to have something to say! We found half a dozen Aleutian Cackling Geese on a steep grassy bank apparently reintroduced following their extermination here. In the Kelp-strewn waters in front of the bank a handful of Sea Otters found refuge. As we rounded our last bay and with a belly’s rumbling a large black triangular fin sliced the water out towards the horizon and our attentions and Zodiacs were turned in that direction. After a careful advance over the kilometre of water we were up close with four large male Orcas slowly cruising north. One male, a massive bull with a dorsal so large it leaned to the right, showed some interest in the Zodiacs and cruised to within 3m of a couple of them, a truly jaw-dropping experience. Back at the ship we enjoyed a hearty and celebratory breakfast as the ship revved up its engines and headed north.
Seabirds peppered the water, a mix of alcids (auks), and shearwaters. As we cruised north a giant broke the surface – a pair of Fin Whales spouting a column of moisture-laden air nearly 10m into the air. Tufted Puffins scattered as they slunk back out of sight. The scenery was superb, almost surreal. The broad, ravened and furrowed bases of volcanos rose from the sea to vanish into a layer of cloud before re-emerging as a neat snow-clad cone into the hazy blue sky.
After a delicious lunch we disembarked the ship at the north end of Onekotan Island on a sheltered sandy bay. The birders remained close to the river valley and crags searching for Asian Rosy Finch which obliged briefly. A Rough-legged Buzzard patrolled the edge of the valley whilst Middendorf’s Grasshopper Warblers sang from the lush vegetation. For those with an interest in botany this landing proved interesting, the elements having stunted any trees to knee height including Arctic Willows and Dwarf Stone Pine. Golden Rhododendrons injected a splash of soft colour to the vegetation and the dainty Snowdon Lily was flowering in abundance alongside Trailing Azalea and scattered Pink Primroses. Those wanting to stretch their legs embarked on a 4km walk up to Black Lake which wraps around the base of Krenitsyna Volcano. Back above the beach an inquisitive dog Red Fox was busy caching a Tundra Vole it had caught, close to its den. The lack of fear and in fact intrigue this animal exhibited made for a brilliant experience. Every detail of its thick, long coat was visible and its dark olive-brown eyes pierced right through you as it watched our every move. After a very enjoyable landing we gathered back on the ship and once again continued our route northeast through the Kuril Islands.
Photo credit: D. Brown
Day 7: Wednesday 20 June
Atlasova Island and Ptichiy Rocks
0600: 50°49N 155°42E
It was another early start and after a 06:15am breakfast which was followed by a short briefing led by Expedition Leader Nathan, we were soon shuttled ashore onto Atlasova Island. With no bears on this island, Nathan allowed everyone to have a free wander and some decided to attempt to climb the volcanic cone which was a few hundred metres to the right of our black sand landing site. This cone was from a relatively recent eruption and the fine sand made it tough to achieve any significant elevation.
For those who wanted to join the guided bird walk, Chis Collins took us around the side of a small lake where we saw several Eurasian Wigeon, Greater Scaup and a lone Eurasian Wigeon. There were also good numbers of Middendorff’s Grasshopper Warblers singing and some of these perched up in the grass and scrub giving us some great views.
Further round the lake, we found several Kamchatka Leaf-Warblers and Brown-headed Thrushes but all too soon it was time to head back to the landing site and then on to the Spirit of Enderby.
By late morning we were all aboard and the Captain set a course through Second Strait which separates Shumshu and Paramushir Islands. We passed the small town of Severu-kurilsk, the first community we had seen since leaving Iturup Island.
Arriving at our anchorage off Ptichiy rocks, five Zodiacs were soon launched and we set off to explore. Nathan had explained in his briefing that this was an excellent location for Sea Otters and this was indeed the case with several dozen individuals around the first of the small islets. Whilst many of these were in the water, a few were hauled out on the seaweed covered rocks and some stayed there as the Zodiacs slowly approached allowing us to have some fantastic views and photographic opportunities.
Nearby there was a small rocky stack where there were good numbers of Common Guillemots. Although we had seen this species on several previous days, it was the first colony we had visited and this was, therefore, an excellent opportunity to compare this species with the more numerous Brunnich’s Guillemot.
Moving on to another rocky island, we had some great views of Tufted Puffins sitting on the ground and as these flew back and forth between the land and the sea, many took the opportunity to try and get some flight shots of these fantastic birds.
With good numbers of Harbour Seals hauled out on the rocks as well as Red-faced and Pelagic Cormorants and some obliging Harlequin Ducks, it was an amazing couple of hours out on the water. As the Zodiacs headed back to the ship some Zodiacs had some close encounters with several small groups of Ancient Murrelets but by 17:30 we were all back aboard and begin our journey to Bukhta Russkaya. 
Photo credit: D. Brown
Photo credit: D. Brown
Photo credit: Y. Mishina
Day 8: Thursday 21 June
Bukhta Russkaya
0600: 52°14N 158°37E
After a series of early starts, it was an opportunity for a bit of a lie in for some with breakfast being available from 08:00am. Outside, however, the weather was far from ideal for looking for wildlife with thick fog and visibility being less than a couple of hundred metres.
With the conditions being inappropriate for a Zodiac cruise along the coastline, Nathan asked the Captain to take the Spirit of Enderby into Bukhta Russkaya and as we entered the fjord, the weather began to improve and we could see the dramatic snow-covered slopes of both sides.
For the keen birders, there were two special auks to find inside the fjord, Long-billed Murrelet and Kittlitz’s Murrelet and just about the entire group was out on either the bow or monkey deck. With the fog coming and going, viewing was a little frustrating but as we slowly cruised down the fjord a Long-billed Murrelet was spotted. With several telescopes on the top deck, many got a reasonable view of this localised alcid with its distinctive long beak.
Shortly after the ship was anchored close to the head of the fjord five Zodiacs were lowered and before the loading was completed our second major target, the Kittlitz’s Murrelet was spotted. Once everyone was on the water, the five boats headed slowly towards the pair of murrelets which were remarkably obliging allowing us to get within a few metres before they eventually flew off.
With both target birds safely found, we were able to explore the fjord without worrying about finding the two auklets and with the weather improving all the time, it was a very pleasant excursion. With the snow covered slopes now completely clear of cloud, we were able to search for brown bears and over the course of the morning at least a dozen individuals were spotted. Whilst most were lone individuals, two females with cubs were seen including one who had three good sized youngsters.
After cruising around the fjord for about three quarters of an hour, Nathan led an exploratory trip up a river which flowed into the head of the fjord. With the sky being clear of cloud and perfect visibility the scenery was very special with the wooded slopes, high peaks and large patches of lying snow.
Having navigated upstream for a couple of kilometres, we turned around and drifted back towards the river mouth seeing our first Eastern Yellow Wagtails of the expedition.
Returning to the ship after a short landing, we enjoyed lunch and then the anchor was lifted and we headed towards the entrance of Bukhta Russkaya. Once again, many of the birding group were out on the monkey deck or bow to look for murrelets and our luck was in again with both Long-billed Murrelet and Kittlitz’s Murrelets being seen.
Once we had reached the mouth of the fjord, Nathan asked for the ship to be anchored and once again we set off in the Zodiacs to explore. Heading south along the coast, we started off by visiting a tiny islet where several dozen Steller Sea Lions were hauled out. Staying downwind of these, we were able to get reasonably close and enjoyed some great views of this North Pacific speciality.
Moving on into a large bay, we cruised passed a second haul out which included two huge males which dwarfed the accompanying females.
As we pulled away from the sea-lions a pod of Orca were spotted and the Zodiacs headed out to sea in the hope that we might be able to get some closer views of this apex predator. With a local boat chasing after the pod, we concluded that continuing was pointless so the five Zodiacs spent the next hour exploring the coastline and offshore with the undoubted highlight being a breaching Orca.
By 17:00pm everyone was back aboard the Spirit of Enderby and we were soon on our way northwards along the Kamchatka coastline. With good visibility, we could see many of the mountains and volcanoes which dominated the region.
Photo credit: Y. Mishina
Day 9: Friday 22 June
Zhupanova River
0600 53°42N 159°53E
During the night, the Spirit of Enderby continued northwards along the coast of Kamchatka and by the time breakfast was announced we were anchored a mile or so off the mouth of the Zhupanova River.
By 07:30am five Zodiacs were in the water and as soon as everyone was aboard we set off for the river. At the entrance, there was a large congregation of gulls and whilst the vast majority of these were the now very familiar Slaty-backed Gull, there were also at least a couple of Kamchatka Gulls, a bird many of the keen birders were keen to see. With a fine adult Steller’s Sea Eagle perched nearby, it was an excellent start to our river cruise.
Entering the river, we continued upstream seeing another couple of eagles and seeing the first of several Far Eastern Curlews. Although several Common Terns were seen, despite considerable searching no Aleutian Terns could be found.
With another day of good weather and excellent visibility, we had a great view of the surrounding countryside with distant volcanoes and snow covered mountains. For those interested in marine mammals, there was a haul out of several dozen Larga Seals and many of these were lying in the manner which is highly distinctive for this species with their back flippers held aloft giving them a gently arching profile.
Continuing upstream our main objective for the morning was to visit a nest of Steller’s Sea Eagle and after motoring upstream for about four miles we came to tree where the expedition team knew there was usually an active nest. There was indeed a pair of birds present with one standing guard and the other sitting on the nest. Although these were somewhat obscured by vegetation we had some nice looks and could appreciate the huge size not only of the birds but the enormous nest which they constructed.
Drifting back downstream we were able to search for smaller birds and a good selection were spotted with at least two Rustic Buntings, a lone Common Rosefinch and a Brambling amongst the highlights.
With Aleutian Tern still missing from our list, we explored a side channel where the expedition team had seen them on previous occasions but with the water level being atypically high, there were no terns in the vicinity. Despite this, a number of different species were found including Northern Shoveler, Eurasian Pintail and Tufted Duck as well as several more Far Eastern Curlews.
Reaching the river mouth once again, we were about to depart for the ship when Expedition Leader Nathan radioed the other Zodiac drivers to advise them that he had just seen a whale blowing immediately off the salmon processing plant. When this resurfaced and much to everyone’s surprise, it was quickly established that this was a Beluga, a species that had never been seen on any of the previous thirty or so visits by the Spirit of Enderby to this location.
Having watched the Beluga surface several times we left it and headed back to the ship which was soon underway for our 230 nautical mile journey to the Commander Islands. With an afternoon at sea, two presentations were offered with Chris Collins showing a short film about the cetaceans of the Commander Islands and then adding some additional commentary. Later in the afternoon, Chris Todd offered a talk about conservation issues in the Russian Far East.
Many people, however, spent a good percentage of the afternoon out on deck seeing an excellent selection of wildlife. Four species of cetaceans were found – Baird’s Beaked Whale, Sperm Whale, Fin Whale and Humpback Whale as well as Mottled Petrel, Laysan Albatross, Fork-tailed Storm-Petrel, Leach’s Storm-Petrel, with the highlight for many of the keen birders being a series of sightings of the North Pacific endemic Red-legged Kittiwake. Several birds even landed on the ship allowing us to get some great views of this much wanted species.
Day 10: Saturday 23 June
Nikolskoye, the south coast of Bering Island, anchorage off Lysinskaya Bay
0600: 55°11N 165°55E
The overnight trip from Zhupanova River to Bering Island was wonderfully smooth, allowing us a good night’s sleep. We awoke to the sound of the anchor chain running out and sunrise on sand hills, curiously dimpled and domed like egg-cartons, running around the wide bay to the township of Nikolskoye, on Bering Island at the southern end of the Aleutian chain. Traditionally home to the Aleuts, the Aleutian Islands were revealed to Europeans through Vitus Bering’s expeditions. However his visit to Bering Island was not a happy one: At the onset of winter, 1741, Bering and his depleted, scurvy-wracked crew on the St. Peter, ran aground on Bering Island. They set-up camp, digging what they joked were their ‘graves’ in the partly frozen sand. After Commander Bering died on December 8th 1741, Georg Steller his naturalist, geographer, and finally physician, wrote in his journal ‘he died more from hunger, cold, thirst, vermin, and grief.’ The vermin he referred to – Arctic Foxes – were their steadfast tormentors, so maddening that within days Steller and Plenisner went on a rampage with axe and long knife, killing over sixty in one go. However, persecution only made them stronger. According to Steller, the foxes ‘dragged apart all the baggage, ate the leather sacks, scattered the provisions, stole and dragged from one man his boots, from another his socks and trousers, gloves and coat… They even dragged off iron and other implements that were of no use to them.’
Steller also described an animal whose buttery fat they made good use of whilst they built a smaller ship from the salvaged wreckage of the St. Peter: Steller’s Sea Cow, Hydrodamalis gigas. This enormous, seaweed-grazing, bobbing creature was hunted to extinction within only 30 years of Steller recording its existence.
Our latter day expeditioners had a somewhat easier time: a memorable encounter with Rock Sandpipers below the village, elegantly probing the tide-exposed seaweed for invertebrates at close camera-range and in many varieties of transitional plumage. A little group of exquisitely patterned Harlequin Ducks dove simultaneously, presumably fishing cooperatively underwater. Sea Otters rafted on their backs, completely relaxed on the easy swell. The birders carried on happily past the township and up the Gavanskaya River.
The rest of us explored Nikolskoye; its candy coloured apartment blocks reminiscent of lego and a brave contrast to the scudding low cloud and grey skies. The town is fronted by a fantastic array of rusting ships, trucks, bulldozers and shipping containers and backed by giant weather domes and a bristling array of antennae. A pair of 13 year old boys tried gently to sell magnets to the passengers, but ending up giving them away instead. They said that they enjoyed their life here, especially the fishing and duck-shooting. The quietly spoken museum curator Valentina showed passengers around the Aleut Museum, complete with a skeleton of Steller’s Sea Cow. Some of us also took a look around the Komandorskiy Park HQ with its white exterior decorated with a breaching humpback and other images of marine mammals. They were also selling soft toys of marine mammals, fridge magnets and local handcrafts.
After returning to the ship and lunching, we followed the line of the deep trench just off the south coast of Bering Island to look for cetaceans and birds. On seeing Humpbacks blowing, the Captain slowed the ship so we could watch them. One rewarded us by surfacing and blowing right next to the ship, its loud exhalation clearly audible on deck. A group of three orca passed by between us and the coast, heading rapidly west. We watched Black and Red-legged Kittiwake (the latter which breed only on the Aleutian Islands), albatrosses, storm-petrels and Tufted Puffins and large groups of Short-tailed Shearwaters rafting together to feed.
Near a bay called Bukhta Nayushka, we spotted a herd of perhaps 300 reindeer; some grazing but many just resting on the snowdrifts, presumably to avoid tics in the grass. Reindeer were introduced to the islands to create an industry, but are now naturalised and protected from hunting.
We reached Lysinskaya Bay in the late afternoon but were unable to launch the Zodiacs owing to a big swell rolling in from the south: We’ll just have to wait it out overnight and see what happens. If a landing is still not possible we plan to return to Kamchatka and explore a sheltered bay just south of the Zhupanova River.
Photo credit: D. Brown
Photo credit: D. Brown
Photo credit: C. Todd
Day 11: Sunday 24 June
At Sea – Commander Islands to Kamchatka
0600: Lat/Long N55o 10’ E165o 34’
The weather had dealt us a bad hand and our morning wake-up call was later than hoped for. A combination of a 3m south-easterly swell and a 20knot north-northeast wind meant landing at Northwest Cape or cruising around Ariy Karmen were not possible and Nathan made the decision to run for Kamchatka and some true expedition cruising into one of the many unexplored bays.
The journey took us out over the deep offshore waters and with a full day at sea a healthy programme of lectures was offered kicking off at 10:00am with Dan unravelling the many mysteries of cetaceans from the adaptations to deep water dives to the history of whaling, conservation and migration. Chris Collins was due to kick his lecture off at 11:30am when the Bridge called down to say they had a Blue Whale in front of the ship. For those quick off the mark or already present they managed to get some good views before it dived. Twenty-five minutes later just as Chris was about to reattempt his lecture it reappeared this time giving more prolonged views and also joined by 1-2 additional animals. For those on the monkey deck the turquoise-blue colour of the animal when underwater allowed them to track the movements of these impressive beasts even when not at the surface. For others the monumental blow and long back were the main sightings cue. Four or five Humpbacks were also present in the area as well as an Orca and some excellent numbers of Fork-tailed Storm-Petrels feeding on a slick no doubt left by a whale.
Chris was finally able to kick off his lecture at 14:30pm and proceeded to divulge tit-bits of information about bird migration in the region as well as more detail on the globally threatened Spoon-billed Sandpipers. Chris Todd followed on at 16:30pm with a recap on the stunning botanical variety we had experienced over the past 11 days and that rounded up a full day of lectures and cetaceans.
Day 12: Monday 25 June
Bukhta Morzhovaya
06:00 53°15N 159°56E
During the night, the Spirit of Enderby continued in a south-westerly direction and when we awoke the ship was anchored in Bukhta Morzhovaya (Walrus Bay). Although cloud covered the tops of the surrounding peaks, we were highly protected here and the sea conditions were extremely benign with just a gentle ripple on the water surface.
As Expedition Leader Nathan had explained the previous evening, none of the expedition team had ever been to this particular bay before so it was truly an expedition day and 45 minutes after our 07:30am breakfast, we set off in the five Zodiacs to explore. Two brown bears had been spotted from the ship before we departed, so we started by heading slowly and quietly in their direction but due to the hunting pressure in this region, as usual, the bears soon disappeared into the nearby vegetation although we were able to get some decent views before they ambled off.
Continuing onwards, the weather started to gradually improve and more and more of the surrounding scenery came into view. We had certainly come to an extremely picturesque location for our last day aboard the Spirit of Enderby with snow covered peaks in almost every direction.
As we slowly cruised around the bay, a selection of birds could be heard singing including Siberian Rubythroat, Kamchatka Leaf-Warbler and Common Rosefinch with some boats also getting glimpses of these species from the Zodiacs. A lucky few also spotted a couple of Rock Ptarmigans as they flew across a distant valley but everyone was able to enjoy last views of several small flocks of Harlequin Ducks as they flew by. An obliging Long-tailed Duck was also found, allowing the photographers to get some good photos of this bird.
Further on, more bears were found including another two which were ambling along the shore and by the time Nathan made the call for the Zodiacs to head back towards the Spirit of Enderby at least eight individuals had been seen. We could only guess at how many bears must live here – clearly there were plenty of them in the vicinity.
With hardly a breath of wind and a cloudless blue sky, the decision was taken to have lunch on the front deck and everyone gather there at 13:00pm for a selection of different pizzas which our excellent chefs Ed and Bruce had made. As soon as everyone had finished eating, we reassembled on the bow for a group photo and a little later Hotel Manager Rachael and Assistant Expedition Leader Yulia began the process of returning passports and settling bills.
Not long after this had concluded, everyone gathered in the Lecture Room for a disembarkation briefing which was followed a little later by the bar hour and then a delicious farewell dinner.
With our expedition close to concluding, we could look back on an extraordinarily successful expedition with a fantastic range of birds and wildlife, as well as some amazing scenery, having been seen.
Photo credit: C. Todd
Photo credit: C. Todd
Photo credit: Heritage Expeditions
Day 13: Tuesday 26 June
Petropavlovsk-Kamchatskiy
The ship cruised into Avacha Bay during the early hours; this is one of the greatest natural harbours in the world. On arrival in port, we gathered for a last breakfast and prepared for disembarkation, farewells and our departure from the Spirit of Enderby, it had been a great expedition.
