1879: Ross Sea - In the Wake of Scott & Shackleton 08 Feb 2018
Day 1: Thursday 8 February
Invercargill
The first day was spent in New Zealand’s southernmost city Invercargill, where most guests settled in the Kelvin Hotel. In the Wake of Scott and Shackleton got underway in the evening as Expedition Leader Rodney Russ, Founder of Heritage Expeditions and Guides Dr Olga and Dr Huw joined the guests for dinner, during which Rodney gave an outline of plans for the next few days, along with thoughts on possible ice conditions. One thing is sure – we are to expect the unexpected when Antarctic weather is concerned. “Stand by, watch the sky, and listen to announcements” would become a familiar motto, but it really is the best way to operate in Antarctica. Patience is everything.
Day 2: Friday 9 February
Bluff, At Sea
Noon Position: Latitude 46o38.5’South; Longitude 168o20.8’East
Air Temperature: 13oC
[Note - All positions and data are taken from the Bridge Log Book.]
Gourmet Grub: Pumpkin and Coconut Soup / Miso glazed New Zealand salmon with wasabi mash / Thyme infused Lamb rump with chive crushed potatoes. Dessert: Whittakers textures of chocolate
Profound Question: “Is there such a thing as a female sperm whale?”
Quote of the Day: “A journey is a person itself; no two are alike. And all plans, safeguards, policies and coercion are fruitless. We find after years of struggle that we do not take a trip; a trip takes us.” -John Steinbeck
Rodney Quote of the Day: “It’s always best to remain rigidly flexible.”
In morning sunshine we were greeted by Naturalist Dan and Historian Huw again to lead the activities and help arrange luggage and check-out; all gear was taken care of and loaded for transit to the Spirit of Enderby. The ship is also named Professor Khromov (1904-77) after a prominent Russian meteorologist during the former Soviet Era.
Guests took the short walk to the Southland Museum, which was of great interest. We began the visit in the Roaring Forties theatre presentation and then enjoyed the sub-Antarctic Islands gallery which had many significant relics linked to ship wrecks and the castaway era. Examples included a wooden punt made by survivors from the Derry Castle wrecked in March 1887 and who lived in huts made from tussock grass, also a pair of seal skin slippers made by survivors from the wreck of the barque Dundonald in March 1907. A small polar display also included a grog tub from Captain Scott’s ship Terra Nova; a Nansen sledge and cameras, and an interesting selection of geological specimens. Nearby were items linked with the whaling eras; all subjects we’d come to learn more about during our voyage. Our expectations heightened.
At noon we gathered at the Kelvin Hotel to enjoy a buffet lunch, before being ushered onto a coach that soon delivered us to the Spirit of Enderby. We drew up alongside the ship and were greeted by Rodney, Rachael and other staff, and then moved into the cabins, our homes for the next month. We surrendered passports and familiarised ourselves with the ship and once Customs Clearance was over we had our first briefings in the Lecture Room in the belly of the ship on level 2, a place that would become very familiar to us as the voyage progressed.
Rodney began by introducing the staff each of whom gave a brief resume of their background. Rachael acquainted us with the daily schedule for meals and other special requirements. Rodney continued the briefing with reference to all-important signals for Emergencies and Abandon Ship. Matters such as appropriate dress and types of landings expected – dry/wet/very wet, the tag system, immersion suits and life jackets. Minutes after this briefing the compulsory lifeboat drill was in full swing, and passengers found their way to muster stations with expert speed.
At 18:00 the Spirit of Enderby, with pilot onboard, slipped her lines and departed Bluff. We were off towards the South. Fine conditions, with an ENE’ly and a mild sea state. We were in the lee of Stewart Island during dinner and later that evening the Captain headed south past Lord River and Port Pegasus with 60-65 nautical miles to travel to The Snares. Hundreds of shearwaters were in their element as Dan alerted us to a whale blow off the starboard bow. The chefs delighted us with a dinner of lamb or salmon as the ship made her way in a gentle following sea for a wonderful start to the expedition. An early night for many, ahead of The Snares tomorrow.
On this day in polar history: 9 February 1839. English sealer John Balleny, working for the Enderby Brothers, sails from New Zealand in the Eliza Scott and the Sabrina searching for new land. He discovers an island group which he names for himself, the Balleny Islands. He makes the first landing south of the Antarctic Circle there.
Day 3: Saturday 10 February
The Snares
Noon Position: Latitude 48o17.4’South; Longitude 166o37.1’East
Air Temperature: 18oC
Gourmet Grub: Starter: Chicken and Cognac. Mains. Chicken Breast stuffed with Spinach and pine nuts wrapped in filo pastry / Roasted Rib eye, garlic mash, parsnips, peas and gravy. Dessert: Sticky Date Pudding
Profound Question: “When we leave Bluff, when do we start to move?”
Quote of the Day: “Come my friends, ‘tis not too late to seek a newer world.” -Tennyson
After a 07.00 breakfast, a fine morning at The Snares confirmed Rodney’s call on the weather as ‘good as it gets’. Perfect sunny conditions for a five boat classic Zodiac cruise. The weather remained calm and sunny all day giving us the rare glimpse of untouched islands flora and fauna.
Rodney had gathered us all to the lecture room for a briefing where he gave an excellent introduction to the island. This routine would become well established before excursions – an informative briefing, then a mad dash to grab gear, cameras and the like, wrapping up warm and clambering down into the Zodiacs.
The nearest of the sub-Antarctic islands to New Zealand, The Snares have a highest point of 152m, cover 328 hectares, a mean annual temperature of 11oC and an average rainfall of 1,200mm per year. Sea birds were plentiful this morning: Buller and Salvin’s Albatross, Cape Petrels (Pintado), and Common Diving Petrels. It is claimed that there are more nesting seabirds here than the whole of the British Isles.
In this first presentation Rodney covered The Snares in full: from their discovery by Vancouver 23 November 1791, the subsequent sealing era that decimated the population, details of the geology (granite), botany and the ornithology. The Zodiac operation using five boats each equipped with four-stroke 60hp engines began at 08:15, with us setting out for two hours on the water. With the exception of the scientific parties from University of Otago and National Institute for Water and Atmospheric Research (NIWA) no landing is permitted, but we cruised the shoreline with satisfying views of native fauna and flora: such as Olearia lyalli the tall ‘tree daisy’, Cook’s ‘scurvy grass’, and large tussocks.
The many birds that were seen included large rafts of Cape Petrels and endemic Snares Crested Penguins, Brown Skua, Buller and Salvin’s Albatross, Giant Petrels, Black and Red-billed Gulls. We saw as many as twenty small black Snares Tomtits – that’s “ten pairs of tits”, or more, many a chap chuckled to himself. The most prominent of the birds species on The Snares are the Sooty Shearwaters – with a calculated 2.7 million pairs in the early 1970s – though only a few were seen. Most had flown before dawn.
We gently motored up creeks dense with black kelp, alongside surging wave-cut platforms and into deep caverns, with New Zealand Fur Seals in abundance. With careful Zodiac guidance the expeditioners had close up looks at the coastline, caves, and the numerous passages around kelp-lined shores. In Ho Ho Bay the huts of the research station established in the 1960s could just be seen as other seals frolicked in the languid waters. For many people a real highlight was the ‘penguin slide’ with large numbers of Snares Crested Penguins commuting over granite, with the surface worn smooth perhaps over hundreds of years. It was a great first full day on the expedition.
Our incredible weather holds as we return onboard, weigh anchor and head south towards Rodney’s ‘backyard’ of the Auckland Islands. The afternoon is busy with an environmental bio-security presentation, followed by compulsory clothing and footwear inspection – which everyone conscientiously took part in, hovering and cleaning any possible contaminant from their gear. Rodney’s briefing was cram packed with fascinating history and facts that reminded us how special this Sub-Antarctic archipelago is.
A beef or chicken extravaganza for dinner hit the spot after a rare sparkling balmy day in the Southern Ocean. A clear sunset interrupted the inaugural and popular ‘Bird Club’ hosted by Dan.
On this day in polar history: 10 February 1913. Terra Nova reaches New Zealand and news of the Antarctic disaster is cabled around the world. The true horrors of the tragedy are revealed in London as the death of Captain Scott and his companions make the late editions of the evening papers. A national memorial service is held in St Paul’s Cathedral on Valentine’s Day. 
Photo credit: O. Belonovich
Day 4: Sunday 11 February
Enderby Island, Auckland Islands
Noon position: Latitude 50o30.4’South; Longitude 166o16.6’East
Air temperature: 14oC
Gourmet Grub: Starter: Gnocchi with Tomato pesto. Mains: Crispy Pork Belly with Cauliflower puree, fennel and baked apple or John Dory with Citrus and seafood Risotto. Dessert: Pistachio semi-fredo.
Profound Question: “Do sea lions lay eggs?”
Quote of the Day: “It is not down in any map; true places never are”. –Herman Melville
Rodney Quote of the Day: “People can always do more than they realise.”
The Spirit of Enderby anchored off Enderby Island near midnight after a smooth passage south from The Snares. The expeditioners breakfasted early in readiness to make the most of our day’s activities.
Port Ross is named after the famous English Arctic and Antarctic explorer James Clark Ross who visited here in November 1840. Originally it was named Rendezvous Harbour by the French expedition led by Dumont d’Urville. Before breakfast many were out on deck taking photos of the sunrise, with the columnar basalt cliffs along the south side of Enderby Island presenting a spectacular sight with seabirds gliding around the ship and seals seen in the dark waters.
An early start. Those of us who were unable to attend to quarantine measures last evening carried this out after breakfast and at 7.30am we had another introductory briefing on aspects of the Auckland Islands, followed by an outline of the two walks planned for today. With help from the chefs we made up a packed lunch to take ashore and then prepared for a full day on Enderby. Rodney’s maps and description of our exploring options to come had everyone eager to go.
All ashore by 9.15am via the Spider Zodiac shuttle, most dry foot. The breeze was a light north-easterly with the landing place at the Ranger’s corner in the Sandy Bay no problem at all. A heavy sea mist and light rain cloak gave the day a foggy appearance. Just a few Hooker’s Sea Lions on the beach and the grassy sward. There has been a serious decline of the species here, which began in the late 1990s. This season about 300 pups have been born with a further 1,400 on Dundas Island, the main breeding location. About 10am we all set out along the boardwalk for the north side of the island, with pack lunches and walking boots afoot, as Yellow-eyed Penguins watched as our line filed away.
Alongside the trail the Southern Rata was still in rich crimson flower, Cassinia, also prolific in New Zealand with its white flowers, at least three species of Gentian with one, Gentiana cerina, a beautiful deep mauve. Of the megaherbs Bulbinella rossii had finished although the occasional plant had a little of the rich orange flower head remaining. On the north side of the island the pink and white flower of mega herb Anisotome latifolia was also prolific. Ferns grew where branches joined trunks and seedlings of Rata and Dracophyllum and numerous other plants had found a home on cushion plants. We’d all come to know the thick undergrowth here intimately – the “tumble in the tussock” became a familiar mantra for those who chose to walk, wet and wearily, right round the northeast coast of the island.
On reaching the north coast a fair wind was blowing, but we were still able to enjoy the Light-mantled Sooty Albatross with chicks, numerous Auckland Islands Shag and familiar Red-Billed Gulls. Some time later others noted Red-crowned Parakeets, more Tomtits, Auckland Islands Snipe, Auckland Islands Teal, Brown Skua, Arctic Tern, Giant Petrels with well-developed chicks, more Yellow-eyed Penguins and even the Double Banded Plover. Rich human history too: the surf-lashed black reef with those who drowned buried in the vicinity, a poignant reminder of the wreck of the Derry Castle in March 1887.
The walkers here split into two groups, with Rodney leading the ‘around’ the island 15K expedition. Dan looked after the remainders, taking them back to the research station where they visited the Stella survival shelter nearby and saw one of the ‘finger’ guideposts from the shipwreck era. A beachcombing loop and walk around the headland gave the naturalists and photographers everything from broad vistas to intimate detail of moisture-laden spider webs. We were lucky enough to see, hear, and smell most of the endemic species. To witness a Southern Royal Albatross wheel effortlessly in the same airspace as the endemic parrot, not far from the penguin, just reminds us how special Rodney’s haven of Enderby Island is.
The intrepid band of hikers who took on the challenge of the ‘easy walk’ around the island will – in due time, and in the warm glow of nostalgia – no doubt fondly remember the ups and the many downs, the thick undergrowth, the beautiful megaherbs, surly sea lions, the countless falls, sunshine, wind and rain…all in all, a rather ‘character building’ experience. As the afternoon came to a close we scrambled through the Rata and listened to birdsong, and we are rewarded with a close encounter with a juvenile Gyrfalcon. All hikers survived although a couple had a helping Zodiac lift to the ship not far from the landing place.
Looking back you’ll remember it as a fine day for a gentle stroll along the beach, or as an epic trek in the spirit of Shackleton. Either way, all were back aboard by 17.15 after another memorable day in nature’s wonderland. A notable buzz in the bar was testament to the pleasure of the day’s adventures.
Matt and Lance produced another cracker dinner and ‘Bird Club’ was understandably busy. With a weather change in the offing Rodney announced after dinner his decision to forgo any further Auckland Island activities in lieu of getting southwest to Macca asap before the forecast weather change prevents any landings there at all. 
Photo credit: D. Brown
Day 5: Monday 12 February
At Sea, en route to Australia’s Macquarie Island
Noon position: Latitude 52o21.0’South; Longitude 163o26.4’East
Air Temperature: 12oC
Gourmet Grub: Starter: Garlic prawn skewers. Mains: Porterhouse steak with duck fat potatoes, green beans and Bérnaise sauce or puy lentil dahl with vegetables, rice and poppadoms. Dessert: Pecan pie with whipped cream.
Profound Question: “Are these penguins, or birds?”
Quote of the Day: “Those who are forgiving will be rewarded a thousand times.”
Sleeping in calm seas and well fed. Rodney had looked at the weather charts for the next few days and decided it best we make for Macquarie Island early, some 360 nautical miles away. A good call. We were blessed with fine seas and fair weather.
A day at sea as we head southwest and in Rodney’s words he hasn’t seen these conditions ever before in this part of the world: calm and almost glassy with gentle following sea. A late breakfast.
Huw kicked off proceedings at 09.30 with his first lecture of the voyage “Surviving the Auckland Islands”, which detailed the many shipwrecks that played out here, and an insight into why and how so many came to grief and the loss of life and hardship of the survivors.
We were sorry to miss Musgrave Point in Carnley Harbour, where the small topsail schooner Grafton was wrecked during a storm on 3 January 1864. Captained by an American named Thomas Musgrave, the schooner had been to Campbell Island for the purpose of following up reports of silver-bearing rock. They were unsuccessful and when passing Adams Island, bad weather had the ship blown up Carnley Harbour where it was wrecked. After managing to make it ashore, a small hut was built in the Rata forest above the beach. Named Epigwaitt after the Indian word for ‘dwelling by the sea’ (also referred to by Musgrave as ‘near the great waters’), the five men lived here for twelve months until Musgrave with two others set out seeking rescue, leaving two men behind. They reached Stewart Island from where Musgrave mounted a rescue operation and on 15 September 1865 Musgrave on the Flying Scud rescued the other two men.
The remaining timbers of the Grafton are clear at the water’s edge and a short way into the clearing we were able to see the remains of the rock hut and forge, now surrounded by dense nettles. The Rata and Dracophyllumforest was quite open and tracks had been made by wild pigs. The Grafton epic was a true story of tenacity, intelligence, and cooperation under really tough circumstances. It is amazing to think how resourceful those men were.
At 11:30 Dan gave his first presentation on recognizing “Seabirds of the Southern Ocean”, which was followed by a hearty lunch. Dan’s lecture showed the basic yet subtle differences in what to look for in our quest for distinguishing which bird is what?
The weather was still foggy and calm, which tallied with the unusual forecast weather pulling warm air down from Australia before the southwest front arrives.
After lunch we prepare for Macca with another quarantine check list of over boots, clothing and gear, some wrote postcard in readiness for sending in the Macca post. Rodney gave a concentrated “Introduction” in the lecture room and told us much more about all aspects of life on the remarkable island, its discovery, and colourful characters in its history, the chequered past of sealing and penguin slaughter associated with the oil trade, the Mawson era of radio communications and the eventual halt of the animal carnage, and the establishment of the Australian Antarctic Division Base. And the recent successful eradication of rabbits and other pests.
So much history here, and not forgetting geology too. Macca is located on the Australian/Pacific plate boundary and is formed of rocks from the Earth’s mantle. Many of the rocks are iron and magnesium rich and are termed ultramafic. They have been formed about six kilometres under the mantle and pushed up. And that’s just the geology – incredible wildlife to be found here too. A late afternoon of more quarantine vacuum cleaning. Many declared it was the most hoovering they’d seen from their husbands in years!
We steamed south making good speed overnight in perfect conditions with everyone looking forward to what the island promises.
Day 6: Tuesday 13 February
Macquarie Island
Noon position: Latitude 54o37.0’South; Longitude 158o55.9’East
Air Temperature: 15oC
Gourmet Grub: Starter: Duck salad with pistachio, parmesan and pear & orange dressing. Mains: Slow roast lamb leg with kumara, spinach and jus or peri peri chicken with roast potatoes and citrus salsa. Dessert: Chocolate brownie with chocolate fudge sauce and mascarpone.
Profound Question: “What nationality is the Russian crew?”
Quote of the Day: “How inappropriate to call this planet earth, when clearly it is ocean.” -Arthur C Clarke.
A morning of sunshine, modest winds and kind seas. This was Macquarie at her best, little wonder she is Australia’s prized sub-Antarctic possession. We anchored in Buckles Bay at 05:20 having made the fastest and smoothest crossing from the Auckland Islands in Rodney’s memory. Incredible conditions to say the least.
After early communication with the island we picked up the four rangers – Andrea, Penny, Jeremy, and Dave – and steamed south ten miles to Sandy Bay.
A first landing with all ashore by 10:30, again Spider running the regular shuttles, to enjoy one of the world’s most remarkable nature spots. We explored the King Penguin colony at the far end of the beach, and the Royal Penguin rookery up in the tussock at the end of the boardwalk. A very young, and mightily photogenic, seal pup was also spotted in the tussock and was much photographed by the lucky few who saw it. Lardy elephant seals rounded out the wildlife spectacle here, lolling at the sea edge, basking in fine weather. For many this was a new highlight, to be up close and amongst Antarctic wildlife that they had so long read about. Perhaps it was the sight of elephant seals battering each other in snot-farting-belching bouts of beach master dominance, or perhaps the simple pleasure of lying on the beach in the sunshine as Kings pecked away at your boots. In all, just wonderful.
We were back aboard for lunch before a ‘culture’ visit back up at the Australian Antarctic Division Base, a walk along the stormy shores of Hassleborough, and the sight of bloodied Giant Petrels lunching on a fresh seal carcass. Cream tea in the base mess, ‘the Old Sealers Inn’, postcards to home. Talk of polar history too. Admiration for Mawson. The warm reception of the Tradies, Rangers, and Technicians made us feel very welcome. A big ‘Thank-You’ sign had been put up in Rodney’s honour for exposing them to countless people from all over the world and for Heritage’s support over the years. Other highlights included the climb to the lookout to view both sides of the Isthmus and the many and varied installations of a working station.
A late dinner at 20:30 after another cram packed day! All four penguins were seen, and the ‘Revisiters’ among passengers and staff were delighted to see the re-vegetation of greenery after the rabbits had gone – the last one being stuffed and on show in the dining lounge. ‘For history’s sake!’ Another incredible day.
On Shackleton’s expedition, today: 13 February 1915. Endurance trapped in the ice of the Weddell Sea. “All hands indulge in a game of Soccer on the floe.” 
Photo credit: D. Brown
Photo credit: D. Brown
Day 7: Wednesday 14 February
Macquarie Island
Noon position: Latitude 55o03.9’South; Longitude 159o04.6’East
Air temperature: 10oC
Gourmet Grub: Smoked salmon rosette with crème fraiche & capers. Mains: Fillet of blue cod with lemon mash, greens and beurre blanc or venison ragout with Israeli couscous and vegetables.
Profound Question: “Are there any toilets in the Zodiacs?”
Quote of the Day: “The two noblest things I perceive are sweetness and light.” -John Swift
Rodney Quote of the Day: “Yours to discover, ours to share with you.”
A luxurious calm night at anchor in Buckles. After breakfast Captain Dimitry weighed anchor and steams south twenty miles to Lusitania Bay, the site of the largest King Penguin colony.
A very special Valentine’s Day for some, enjoyed on ship with their loved ones – or for others a quick phone call, a card from home tucked in the suitcase perhaps, or a promise of dinner once they return. Anyhow, it was a day of ardent ship-board activity. No lonely hearts here, we were all coming together as new friends and happy shipmates.
At 08:30 he had five Zodiacs in the water and headed in toward the colony for a closer look. We took our time to slowly cruise at Lusitania Bay and marvelled at the thousands of King Penguins there. At 500 metres in the offing we picked up the scent and full cacophony of noise associated with such a large gathering. We Zodiac back and forward just seaward of the kelp line, avoiding the large swell sets thundering onto the shore.
Dan pointed out a small separate grouping of Rockhopper Penguin ‘cousins’ nearby, some may say these were overwhelmed by the Kings. Dappled sunlight illuminated the scene with white penguin breasts, verdant ridge lines, and cloud base feather edges. In contrast, the rusted remnants of the digesters surrounded by the King colony were but a grim reminder of what happens in the quest for the easy money at nature’s expense. Afterward the penguins seem to follow the Zodiacs back to the ship with a curiosity that entrances us all. The sea around the ship at anchor was teaming with these remarkable birds.
Back on board, we steam south looking for any sign of the rich life in the convergence zone. Wandering Albatross and Cape Petrels swooped and darted over wave crests. So much bird life was also observed throughout our time on the island, which included Giant Petrels, Sooty Albatrosses, Black-Browed Albatross, Campbell Albatross, Wandering Albatross, Southern Royal Albatross, Brown Skua, Macquarie Island Shag, Kelp Gull and Antarctic Tern. In the water and on the shores numerous Royal, King, Gentoo and Rockhopper Penguins were observed. Macquarie truly is an island that is alive with nature, a haven in a hostile sea. It’s also an island that really deserves more time and many more visits.
After lunch Huw delivered his second lecture of the voyage “Boiling Penguins”, detailing the intriguing environmental history of the island and the nefarious activities of tenacious oil tycoon Joseph Hatch, which was followed up at 5pm with the really interesting film “Saving Macquarie Island”. He also covered the early ‘media’ presence originating in the Mawson era with ‘Photographic Proof’ by Frank Hurley to sway the Australian Government’s ruling toward Wildlife Sanctuary status, which was finally achieved in 1933.
With over 1,000 nautical miles to go before the next waypoint, it’s a long way into the Southern Ocean for us now. An afternoon of reading and writing, painting for some, perhaps some competitive Scrabble and cards too. Phone calls home. Happy daydreams.
Lively hour in the bar before dinner as all think more about the voyage that lies ahead. With Wandering Albatross and Giant Petrels gliding over wave tops and whales in the water too, it had been a full and satisfying expedition day. There would be more to come. And then a Valentine’s Dinner, with plastic table flowers and romantic cards to boot. Well, we tried our best…
On Shackleton’s expedition, today: 14 February 1915. “Land seen faintly to SE about 40 miles off. A decisive effort was made to free the ship, all hands continuing till midnight and everyone like a Trojan would wield a pick, ice-chisel, or any other implement. At midnight we had cocoa and wished Sir Ernest Many Happy Returns for his 41st birthday. All to bunks very tired.” 
Photo credit: O. Belonovich
Photo credit: D. Brown
Day 8: Thursday 15 February
At Sea. Southward Ho!
Noon position: Latitude 59o36.7’ South; Longitude 161o59.5’East
Air temperature: 5oC
Gourmet Grub: Starter: Mushroom & truffle ravioli with spinach and cream sauce. Mains: John Dory with herb mash potato, cherry tomato, capers and a butter sauce or Lamb tagine, tabbouleh, babaganoush and cumin yoghurt. Dessert: Orange and almond cake with Crème Anglaise and stewed fruits.
Profound Question: “Has this ship ever been wrecked?”
Quote of the Day: “If the only prayer you said in your whole life was ‘thank you’ that would suffice.” -Meister Eckhart.
Great progress south towards Cape Adare. 220 plus miles in under 24 hours, conditions very good, mild sea, light north-easterly, fog and sea mist. The barometer is falling slowly with little wildlife for now, except for a lone Southern Royal wheeling around the ship.
Getting closer to the Antarctic convergence. This is roughly a circular belt of water about 25 miles (40km) wide lying between Latitudes 48o and 60o South. By no means a fixed boundary, it forms where cold north-flowing Antarctic bottom water and Antarctic surface water meet the warmer water flowing south. This produces a sharp change in temperature that we will encounter. Again well fed, most to bed early as the ship gently rolls.
A full day of lectures and film. First up “Silence Calling”, an interesting documentary on the history of the Australian Antarctic Division and those early expeditions establishing a presence to justify the extensive territorial claims. Superb early footage of explorers and the establishment of various international bases. The Australian National Antarctic Research Establishment (ANARE) of Macquarie Island, Mawson, Davis, and Casey stations, are discussed, also events leading up to the geopolitical decision to secure the Antarctic and National Park status are explained.
There followed a fascinating third lecture from Huw at 11am with “Off the Map”, a chronological history detailing the curious stories of Antarctic charts. At 5pm Olga gave an interesting lecture on “Antarctic Seals”, with good photographs and a self-made cartoon animation. The lecture began with a brief overview of seals, the essential differences and the biology and adaption of the two families, known as the Otaridae and Phocidae, were carefully explained. She then outlined the four Antarctic seals – Weddell, Crab-eater, Leopard and Ross with mention of the varied dentition linked to diet, securing of prey and for the male Weddell, keeping breathing holes open.
The rules for the iceberg sighting competition are announced. Simply the date and time was needed, with the approved berg to be no smaller than a classic London Double Decker bus, seen with the naked eye. As chance would have it, you wait for one bus and then lots come along all at once…it would not be long until we were surrounded by magnificent bergs!
After lunch, a break in the lectures to be filled with film: the first episode of “The Last Place on Earth”, based on Roland Huntford’s book Scott and Amundsen. The first of seven episodes, this transfixed and annoyed viewers in equal measure over this voyage. It’s an important film in the history of polar imagining, but not so great if you’re an admirer of Captain Scott. It’s a fictitious comparison of the two, with some truth in there alongside much that is made up. Scott doesn’t emerge well from this particular retelling, but the ‘race’ to the South Pole is captivating nonetheless.
Bar hour and another delightful dinner caps off a full day of activities at sea. This evening some of us celebrated Shackleton’s birthday. The famous explorer was born in County Kildare, Ireland on 15 February 1874. It’s a good day to toast his memory, but also to remember many other polar heroes of old. We each have our favourites, but for the record, and for those of you who like to know these things, other polar heroes are: James Clark Ross (15 April), Mawson (5 May), Scott (6 June), John Ross (24 June), Amundsen (16 July), Carl Anton Larsen (7 August), Nansen (10 Oct), Frank Hurley (15 Oct), Wally Herbert (24 Oct) and James Cook (7 Nov). That’s certainly a good sequence of drinks to raise through the year!
If naval tradition is more your thing, then you can actually lift a glass each day of the week if that floats your boat. The naval toasts are as follows: Monday – “To Ships at Sea”; Tuesday – “To Sailors, and Our Men”; Wednesday – “To Ourselves”; Thursday – “To a bloody war and a swift promotion”; Friday – “To a willing soul and good sea room”; Saturday – “To Sweethearts and Wives”; and, lastly, on a Sunday – “To Absent Friends and for all those at sea”.
Day 9: Friday 16 February
At Sea
Noon position: Latitude 63043.3’ South; Longitude 166o38.3’ East
Air temperature: 1oC
Gourmet Grub: Sorry no menu saved for this date.
Profound Question: “Which way is 10 o’clock?”
Quote of the Day: “There are two ways to live your life. One is as though nothing is a miracle. The other is as though everything is a miracle.” -Albert Einstein.
Rodney Quote of the Day: “I’ve no time for devout cowards. Try to surprise yourself and be strong.”
“Here’s to a day of information sharing, learning, and homework.” It’s Rodney on the PA, not Rachael, but his dulcet tones are still welcome. Breakfast at the much civilised hour of 08:30 let the ‘exercise club’ of joggers and jerkers recover before eating.
We make good progress south including a minor course change east of south to avoid the forecast gale conditions around the Cape Adare corner. Wind SSE 20 knots, pressure falling. 150m visibility, reasonably calm sea considering. Not a lot of wildlife. Ice was seen on the radar to starboard, but thus far out of sight, so for now the sweepstake wine is still safe.
A Wandering Albatross, a few prions and petrels, and then another full day of lectures begins. First up was Dan with his superb summary on the life of “Penguins”. Dr Huw followed at 11am with his fourth lecture “The Southern Whalemen”, with more thought-provoking old photographs and rare film from the whaling days, both in the NZ sub-Antarctic and more particularly the wonderful island of South Georgia. Dr Huw encourages us to consider the human side to the whaling industry, as much as its terrible environmental costs. We witness both the sheer dreadfulness of the kill and slaughtering process over its long history, as well as the heroics and innovations of men involved who in many ways were simply putting food on the family table – irrespective of their feelings for animal welfare. The use of whale products and the eventual animal rights awareness post 1970s were also covered.
Remarkably good sea conditions continue as we make 12 knots towards Cape Adare. Huw’s whaling lecture followed by a current overview of whale status by the NOAA Marine Mammals biologist Philip Clapham – a frank lecture delivered in 2016 to the Academy of Science meeting, explaining the real and likely numbers of whales repopulating or not, and where. Also covered were the threats of climate change, pollutants, and noise to the big whales. Another episode of “Last Place’, and the race to the South Pole is on.
This early evening turned to dusk, more birdlife to be enjoyed by those taking the air on the outer decks. Petrels and Prions, Light-mantled and Wandering Albatross. The air temperatures begin to drop. Water temperatures too are falling. Antarctica is getting closer. After dinner the birding film “The Big Year” was screened to popcorn in the lecture room, with almost a full house. Was it the movie, or more likely, the popcorn that drew in the crowds? We pass the Balleny Islands to starboard late in the night, as we close on the Antarctic Circle early tomorrow. Still no iceberg!...yet….
On this day in polar history: 16 February 1874. Sir George Nares’ Challenger is the first steam-driven ship to cross the Antarctic Circle. Sponsored by the Royal Society, this grand oceanographic voyage is also the first Antarctic foray whose aims were solely scientific. Among many pioneering aspects of this voyage, the first photographs of Antarctic icebergs are taken.
Day 10: Saturday 17 February
Enroute to Antarctica. Southern Ocean
Noon position: Latitude 68o35.3’South; Longitude 167o37.2’East
Air temperature: 1oC
Gourmet Grub: Broccoli and Blue Cheese Soup / Ribeye Rossini with Potato Grating and Greens / Chicken and Olice Casserole with Fragrant Rice. Dessert: Poached Pear with Blueberry
Profound Question: “Why do the birds always sit on white rocks?”
Quote of the Day: “The shell must break before the bird can fly.” –Tennyson
The first iceberg of the expedition was sighted away to the west, at 62o49’South, 166o26’East, in water around 2,000m deep. Icebergs before breakfast, a good start to any day by my reckoning. Much activity on deck, but well satisfied we return inside for another day of films and presentations. And the issuing of the blue Heritage polar jackets, more excitement and photos, people getting hot, resizing and reshuffling, and more promenading on the outerdecks. Not quite cold enough though for those fancy jackets.
At 11am Huw gave his fifth lecture of the voyage, “Freeze Frame”, which explained the development of photography and its use in the polar regions. Another wonderfully illustrated account, using rare imagery based on his research in collections all round the world. Pretty pictures – can’t beat it. Much inspiration for our photographers on board.
In the afternoon came Spider’s enlightening account of “Expeditionary Art”, showing images from famous maritime voyages. As an artist himself, it was particularly fascinating to get his take on many of these well-known images and to think more about the meaning of making marks afloat.
On this day in polar history: 17 February 1774. The first recorded sighting of the Aurora Australis, the southern lights, during James Cook’s second discovery voyage. And on 17 February 1900. Norwegian explorer Carsten Borchgrevink with William Colbeck travel on skis across the Ross Ice Barrier to achieve a record ‘Farthest South’ of 78o50’South.
Day 11: Sunday 18 February
Southern Ocean. We cross the Antarctic Circle, Latitude 66o33’South!
Noon position: Latitude 70o44.8’South; Longitude 171o05.9’East
Air temperature: 0oC
Gourmet Grub: Starter: Pork & chive dumplings with dipping sauce. Mains: Sunday roast of beef or turkey with roast vegetables and gravy. Dessert: Apple pie and whipped cream.
Profound Question: “What happens to an iceberg when it melts?”
Quote of the Day: “Who looks outside dreams; who looks inside, awakes.” -Carl Jung.
Light-mantled Sooty Albatross and a couple of Wanderers greet the sun on the bridge, just before Rachael takes to the PA to summon the ship to breakfast. Icebergs on the horizon. We gathered on the bow to toast our progress.
During the night we had crossed the Antarctic Circle. This is a geographical boundary (also in the Arctic) at which in summer, marks the most northerly point at which the sun is visible for 24 hours a day on mid-summer’s day (21 December), when the sun is at its highest above the horizon. In winter it is the southernmost point at which the sun can be seen on mid-winters day (21 June). South of the Antarctic Circle it is dark 24 hours a day in winter.
The crossing of the Antarctic Circle is considered to be a symbolic point of the entry into Antarctic waters. 17 January 1773 is a date to remember. Captain James Cook and his crews in Resolution and Adventure, on his second major voyage of discovery, become the first men to sail within the Antarctic Circle. They would cross the Antarctic Circle three times in various parts of the Southern Ocean during this voyage, and in doing so they also became the first to circumnavigate Antarctica, although they would never see this great southern continent.
Birds were seen today in good numbers: Prions, Cape Petrels, Antarctic Petrels, a Campbell Albatross and many beautiful Light-mantled Sooty Albatross. But the highlight was the special ceremony on the bow that morning to celebrate crossing the Antarctic Circle. Mugs of mulled wine were shared as Rodney offered these words:
By anyone’s standards this event is an auspicious occasion-very few people have crossed the Antarctic Circle by ship. So on this occasion we want to both celebrate the occasion and acknowledge its importance.
Today each one of us joins a unique group of explorers that have gone before us, not only showing us the way, but also giving us courage to follow and to make our own destiny. We follow explorers such as James Clark Ross, Robert Falcon Scott, Sir Ernest Shackleton, Roald Amundsen, Sir Douglas Mawson, Richard Byrd, Sir Edmund Hillary and others, who pioneered new routes south of the Circle. Today we acknowledge them and their efforts.
Crossing the Circle also carries with it responsibility – a responsibility that those explorers who went before us took seriously which is part of the reason that we are here today. They advocated for the protection of these lands and wildlife that inhabited them, ensuring that future generations would have them to enjoy.
So today as we cross the Circle, I would like each of you to take this vow and receive the Mark of the Penguin – as evidence that you have crossed the Antarctic Circle and have taken the pledge which I am going to ask you to say after me.
“Having endured the privations of the Roaring Forties, the rigours of the Furious Fifties and the ice-strewn waters of the Screaming Sixties to cross the Antarctic Circle, pay homage to those early explorers who have not only shown the way, but have demonstrated what it means to advocate for the continued protection of Antarctica and its wildlife and history. I [own name] hereby pledge that in accepting the Mark of the Penguin will, until I take my last expedition, advocate to everybody, even those who will not listen, the importance of the Antarctic and its wildlife and history.”
Would you now please step forward and receive the Mark of the Penguin….
And in no time at all penguins of various species soon decorated every forehead in the assembled throng. Welcome everyone to the fellowship of Antarctica! It really is a privilege and a blessing. Let’s use our time here wisely and enjoy every moment.
Later in the day Rodney gathered us in the lecture room for another compulsory briefing. This began with IAATO (International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators founded 1991), of which Heritage Expeditions is a foundation member, and was followed by the Code of Conduct for historic site visits administered by the Antarctic Heritage Trust. During this summer, just 300 visitors are expected to voyage to the Ross Sea region compared to some 20,000 on the busy Antarctic Peninsula. Excitement and expectation is building.
On this day in polar history: 18 February 1902. The Weddell Sea freezes early for the winter, forcing Otto Nordenskjold and his men to overwinter on Snow Hill Island. 
Photo credit: D. Brown
Day 12: Monday 19 February
Ross Sea
Noon position: Latitude 74o03.1’South; Longitude 172o16.2’East
Air temperature: -3oC
Gourmet Grub: Starter: Chermoula prawns. Mains: Salmon fillet, herb polenta, broccoli and salsa verde or chicken cordon bleu with crushed potatoes and greens. Dessert: Carrot cake.
Profound Question: “Is the Great Auk still extinct?”
Quote of the Day: “We do not see things as they are, we see things as we are.” -Talmud.
The southerly storm prevents us from reaching Cape Adare. We had hoped for a landing, but not this time, and instead we continue to punch our way south. We are experiencing what many are describing as ‘their first real day in Antarctica’.
Blue jackets abound, and though bird life is scare icebergs and sunlight fill the scene. We continue pushing south towards Terra Nova Bay with the aim of having as much time as possible in the Ross Sea. A late start for some, 08:30 breakfast, but for others the reward from early light on the outer decks: ten Snow Petrels.
Past Possession Island in the early afternoon. It was here in 1841 that James Clark Ross and his crews landed and claimed formal possession of the continent for the young Queen Victoria, with flag raising, three cheers and many cups of claret. Again sea ice conditions made a landing impossible, where this historic landing was made. Ross wrote: “Inconceivable myriads of penguins completely and densely covered the whole surface of the island, along the ledges of the precipices, and even to the summits of the hills, attacking us vigorously as we waded through their ranks…” He did not stay ashore for long either, as a storm sprang up and the currents were moving fast. Interestingly, he later wrote of the islands: “Future navigators should be on their guard in approaching the coast at this place”.
As day turned to night, snow begins to fall. The outerdecks were soon covered in a layer of fresh white. New footprints could be seen, dancing from the bar-library and back to the warmth of inside. Another fine dinner. Whisky and laughter. Card games and hot chocolate, more reading and story-telling. We are a happy ship, heading south together into the ice.
On this day in polar history: 19 February 1819. William Smith sights the South Shetland Islands for the first time.
Day 13: Tuesday 20 February
Ross Ice Shelf and McMurdo Sound
Noon position: Latitude 77o17.2’South; Longitude 168o11.6’ East
Air temperature: -7oC
Gourmet Grub: Starter: Caesar salad. Mains: Hake with roasted sweet potato, zucchini ribbons and a dill sauce or Catalan lamb braised in tomato & garlic with olives, served with rice and greens. Dessert: Blueberry tart with custard.
Profound Question: “How do penguins know what sex they are?”
Quote of the Day: “Whatever you can do, or dream you can, begin it. Boldness has a genius, power, and magic in it.” -WH Murray
Rodney Quote of the Day: “Antarctica has that A-Factor. You’ll just keep wanting to come back.”
One of the great expedition days. A beautiful sunrise. We are heading further south still toward the ‘Great Barrier’, the Ross Ice Shelf. It’s cold at -20oC this morning, but calm. A morning’s jog around the ship, what better with such views as this.
When James Clark Ross discovered the ice shelf in January 1841 he wrote “…a perpendicular cliff of ice between one hundred and fifty feet and two hundred feet above the sea, [was] perfectly flat and level at the top and without any fissures on its seaward face.” Ross also stated “There is no more chance of sailing through that than through the cliffs of Dover.” This vast feature of floating ice about the size of France has a front edge a staggering 800 km long along its seaward face and 750 km back towards its source; the giant glaciers of the Trans-Antarctic Mountains. It varies in thickness from around 330m to 700m and has only 1/7th of the ice above the waterline.
We chug westwards along the Ice Shelf towards Cape Crozier in balmy conditions as the sun breaks through the clouds. It’s hard to imagine the conditions experienced by Scott’s companions on their ‘worst journey in the world’. “Polar exploration is at once the cleanest and most isolated way of having a bad time which has been devised”, Apsley Cherry-Garrard would later write. Emperor Penguins spotted in the binoculars in the distance, but there would be much more to come…
In the afternoon, a landing at Cape Bird on the northern tip of Ross Island. On the beach, ridges of rounded basalt pebbles and cobbles, the large Adelie Penguin colony has become established and penguins were even inhabiting high areas of talus on the slopes above us. Adelie Penguins, the Skuas and the seals, in falling snow. A walk out to the glacier snout, temperature falling.
We continue round Ross Island and try to push further south into McMurdo Sound. Winter has come early this year, with the fast ice stretching north from McMurdo some 12 miles out. There was a channel cut by icebreaker a few weeks back, but it is not impossible, impassable. We wait, weighing up our options, and decide instead to explore the ice front.
We are rewarded with Emperors on the ice, and then, a group of Killer Whales. For three hours the ship sits motionless at the ice as the group swims around us, patrolling the ice front. As the sun sinks lower to the far range of mountains in the distance, the blows of the whales are lit like flame. It is an unforgettable experience. Many of us were up, outside in bitterly cold temperatures until 2am, marvelling at the scene. The evening night turns to dusk in a blaze of iridescent gold and the western mountains glow in pale blues. Raw nature, sublime wilderness. This is Antarctica truly at its most beautiful.
On this day in polar history: 20 February 1823. Englishman James Weddell sails to 74oS, the farthest south yet reached, in a sea that now bears his name. Icebergs were spotted, but no land was in sight. Few are able to penetrate this vast, ice-chocked region again for almost eighty years. Also on 20 February, in 1935. Accompanied by her Norwegian sea-captain husband, Danish-born Caroline Mikkelsen steps ashore at the Vestfold Hills, becoming the first woman to set foot on the Antarctic mainland.
On Shackleton’s expedition, today: 20 February 1915. “Our farthest South, 76o57S. Four seals secured. They were shot two miles from the ship, and it took us three hours to go out and sledge them in, plugging through soft snow into which we sunk thigh deep. Land in sight but Endurance still trapped in the ice.” 
Photo credit: D. Brown
Photo credit: D. Brown
Photo credit: O. Belonovich
Day 14: Wednesday 21 February
McMurdo Sound, Cape Evans
Noon position: Latitude 77o42.7’South; Longitude 165o31.2’East
Air temperature: -13oC
Gourmet Grub: Tomato and Vegetable Soup / Pork Snitzel with Braised Cabbage / Chicken Breast on Ratatouille. Dessert: White Chocolate Panacotta
Profound Question: “How far round does the coast go?”
Quote of the Day: “A book just fell on my head – I’ve only got my shelf to blame.”
A magical night is followed by an incredible morning, with more Emperors at the ice front and groups of Orca. We have been blessed; this is wildlife watching of the highest calibre, a truly privileged experience.
By mid morning the clouds have lifted and finally offer clear views of the mighty Mount Erebus. The mountain, a component of the McMurdo Volcanic, was created in the Late Tertiary about 60 million years ago at a time, when fractures in the earth’s crust occurred prior to the beginning of uplift of the Trans-Antarctic Mountains. In 1909 Shackleton wrote that “it became quite an ordinary thing to hear reports from men who had been outside in winter, that there was a strong glow in Erebus…and at other times we have seen great bursts of flame crowning the crater.” Erebus has a lava lake 200m below the crater rim and each day an estimated 200 tonnes of sulphur dioxide is released.
Come afternoon, the event that most of us had been looking forward to for many years – a visit to Scott’s Terra Nova hut at Cape Evans. We landed in the late afternoon and words can’t really do justice to the experience of opening the door and stepping foot inside this remarkable place.
Look back at your photos, or close your eyes and remember the sounds and smells of the place. Look back soon at old photographs by Scott’s photographic artist Herbert Ponting and imagine the life here. Perhaps think of yourself sitting, as Scott had done so many times, in his bunk penning a journal or letters to home. Imagine yourself overwintering here, not just surviving but living and thriving amongst your woollen-jumpered mates, with ramshackle bunks and walls made from packing cases. Horses stabled and dogs kennelled around the hut, with penguins on the foreshores and winter winds tearing at the windows.
The stove is on and the scientists are at their work. Perhaps Wilson is painting or Clissold is baking rhubarb crumble in the galley. The geologists are doing what geologists do, breaking rocks. Maybe Oates is mending his socks, Cherry is writing his diary, or someone is striking up the gramophone. These are a few of the things I imagined when standing there, looking down the mess table, savouring the silence, and relishing the privilege of sharing it with all of you.
The last Zodiacs brought happy passengers back to the ship just as the evening sun emerged from the low bank of cloud over the mountains to the west, lighting Mount Discovery in orange and gold, before plunging all into cold darkness. This really was a special evening and proof, if any were necessary, that if you are patient and put in the effort Antarctica rewards you. Cold but happy faces as all return safely to the ship. We finally bring the last Zodiac onboard at 23:30; the staff finally sitting down to microwave dinner. But none minded one bit. Our souls had been well fed. This was a full day, but really one of the very best.
On this day in polar history: 21 February 1902. German explorer Erich von Drygalski and his crew on Gauss become trapped between the floes. They discover and map Kaiser Wilhelm II Land and, though stuck in the ice for a year, they undertake a valuable programme of scientific research. 
Photo credit: O. Belonovich
Photo credit: D. Brown
Day 15: Thursday 22 February
McMurdo Sound
Noon position: Latitude 77o13.2’South; Longitude 166o24.6’ East
Air temperature: -5oC
Gourmet Grub: Salt and Pepper Squid / Roast Sirloin with Vanilla Mash / Hoki Fish with Lemon Papedelle. Dessert: Banana Butterscotch Crepes
Profound Question: “Will we be able to see the ozone hole?”
Quote of the Day: “If you can’t explain it to a six year old, you don’t understand it yourself.” – Albert Einstein
After such a day of wonders, now a rest day, a chance to recover, to download thoughts and images, to reflect and to recharge. We ‘actively wait’, relax, and nurture our memories.
Starting the day at 10am Huw gives his sixth lecture, “Scott of the Antarctic”, which examined the myth as much as the reality of Captain Scott and his fateful final expedition. It’s a perfect subject, as we ride at anchor here under the shadow of Mount Erebus.
In the last light of the day the smoke plumes of Erebus were lit up as if orange fire. Stunning. James Clark Ross discovered Mounts Erebus and Terror. He wrote “some land which had been in sight since the preceding noon, and which we called the ‘high Island’; it proved to be a mountain twelve thousand four hundred feet in elevation above the level of the sea, emitting flame and smoke in great profusion”. The young botanist Joseph Hooker referred to Mt. Erebus as “a fine volcano spouting fire and smoke” while the ship’s blacksmith commented “this splendid Burning Mountain was truly an imposing sight.”
Olga gave a tremendous lecture later this morning on the Ross Sea type c Killer Whales, their biology, and the threats to their future. In the afternoon, after another dose of the Scott documentary many then viewed the documentary “Blackfish”. This focused on the catching of Orca with several then kept and later bred in captivity by Sea World. Unfortunately it has also cost the lives of two trainers. There is still much to learn about the biology and life of these amazing whales. It is a tremendously powerful film and one that everyone should watch if they have the chance. It may yet bring a large company to its knees and change the way people understand the value and sense of keeping Orcas in captivity.
On this day in polar history. 22 February 1994. Fearing the impact of dogs on the wildlife native to Antarctic coasts, a new clause is inserted in the Antarctic Treaty outlawing these animals. Ninety-six years after they were first used here, on the Southern Cross expedition, the last dogs finally leave Scott Base. Bjorn, Herbie, Monty, Footrots and Nimrod board a plane bound for New Zealand. 
Photo credit: D. Brown
Day 16: Friday 23 February
McMurdo Sound
Noon position: Latitude 77o13.2’South; Longitude 166o24.6’ East
Air temperature: 0oC
Gourmet Grub: Starter: Pumpkin and coconut soup. Mains: Sundried tomato & parmesan polenta with grilled eggplant, zucchini and Kalamata olives or pork cutlet with mashed potato, greens and apple balsamic jus. Dessert: Pear tart.
Profound Question: “Can you sail east through the Northwest Passage?”
Quote of the Day: “The past is a foreign country.” – Arthur C Clarke
Rodney Quote of the Day: “In Death, Scott wins.”
Today is a day for Heroes in Russia, so they say. Spraznicom – Cheers to the Heroes – on this day of ‘The Defence of the Homeland’. It’s ‘Man’s Day”, the crew on the bridge say with a salute as we join them in the early morning light. We’re still here at Cape Bird, ‘actively waiting’, for the weather to become more favourable for an attempt on Cape Royds.
Huw sets the pace this morning with his seventh lecture “The Ice Ship” a wide-ranging illustrated history of icebreakers, and of future polar vessels. Rodney also spoke movingly of his hopes and dreams for the future, in ‘active retirement’, working and playing harder than ever before in his mighty new ship Strannik.
Evgeny followed at 11:30am, to give his first lecture, “Franz Josef Land”, describing his work as a park ranger in the Arctic. With mild conditions in the afternoon (well, only minus 5), we attempt a second landing in the surf at Cape Bird. Rodney, Olga and Huw make it ashore but the first Zodiac of passengers has difficulty in the swell, despite Spider’s excellent handling so Rodney makes the call to abort the attempt. A wise decision, as we live to fight another day. Spider bails out his boat with his hands.
A chance now for the final instalment of “The Last Place on Earth”, and then a special Man’s Day dinner, with vodka and beer flowing freely. Spirits are high in anticipation of a final day here in the southerly section of the Ross Sea, attempting Cape Royds. After the completion of the 7-part film, it was also a moment to reflect a little on Scott and other great polar Men on this Day.
We are close but the South Pole is still almost a thousand miles away. Above McMurdo, on the summit of Observation Hill, is a hewn wooden cross, a simple memorial commemorating Scott and his party, who died on their return trek from the Pole in 1912. The final lines of Ulysses by Alfred Lord Tennyson are inscribed on it. Here are these moving final lines in context of some lines from the verse itself:
Come, my friends,‘Tis not too late to seek a newer world.
Push off…for my purpose holds
To sail beyond the sunset, and all the western stars, until I die.
It may be that the gulfs will wash us down:
It may be we shall touch the Happy Isles,
Though much is taken, much abides; and though
We are not now that strength which in old days
Moved earth and heaven; that which we are, we are,
One equal temper of heroic hearts,
Made weak by time and fate, but strong in will
To strive, to seek, to find, and not to yield.
Day 17: Saturday 24 February
Cape Royds
Noon position: Latitude 77o44.1’South; Longitude 166o06.8’ East
Air temperature: -7oC
Gourmet Grub: Starter: Crispy duck wonton with Asian slaw. Mains: Butter chicken with basmati rice or beef stew with mash potato, peas and gravy. Dessert: Trifle.
Profound Question: “Can penguins walk backwards?”
Quote of the Day: “The duty of every man is to be honest and to do good.” -Ferninand Hassler
Rodney Quote of the Day: “Let’s burn the candle at both ends, explore till the last moment, and use up every ounce of our time here. You can sleep on the way home!”
We lift anchor early in the morning and the Captain takes the Spirit of Enderby to Cape Royds, the site of Shackleton’s Nimrod expedition hut, a little way south down the coast. Mount Erebus could be glimpsed through breaks in the cloud, but as the morning wore on she came out in regal splendour in a blaze of light, clouds, and in the foreground newly forming sea ice. Up on the bridge Spider, Huw and Phil sketched away as passengers photographed the majestic scene to their hearts content.
Through binoculars we could see the shore at Cape Royds filled in with ice, but still hopeful of a landing later in the afternoon once the wind drops, we decide to push south for the major fast ice off McMurdo to continue our ‘active waiting’. Emperor Penguins were spotted and the Captain brought the ship, nose in to the ice edge. For a while it looked as if the penguins would not hang around, but their curiosity overcame their fears.
We decided to make a landing on the ice, to give everyone the chance to experience what it is like to walk upon the ocean. Huw briefed passengers as they tumbled from the Zodiacs, establishing a safe perimeter and encouraging everyone to be as still and as quiet as possible. A hard thing to do when it is exciting to experience new things like this, but all passengers behaved brilliantly.
And, sure enough within ten minutes or so the first Emperors returned, and soon the rest were brave enough to join us too. Within the hour we had thirty Emperors, walking and sliding across the ice, coming to check us out. As we stood, sat, or even lay down on the ice, motionless, the Emperors continued to get closer and finally came within metres. At one stage Huw was entirely surrounded; at another it looked like Olga was going to be kissed on the bottom.
Other passengers made friends with some curious Adelies, who loyally followed them around the ice for over an hour. It really would be hard to equal this kind of wildlife experience, in near perfect conditions, the ice stretching far into the distance, the mountains painted in ice blue and pale yellow. A gentle breeze, a blue sky, soft sunlight and not too cold. It is true that when things get tough, Antarctica can be a terrible, brutal kind of place. But when she is good, as the saying goes, she is very, very good. Our patience for the last few days has been rewarded by a superlative wildlife experience, one that will last a lifetime.
You might have thought it hard to top a morning like this, or even an evening spent in fascinating Captain Scott’s hut, but incredibly today more than matches up to this.
Through ice and surf, we finally scrambled ashore and set off over an undulating volcanic ‘moonscape’, going against the flow if you like, up old lava flows and across to the hut itself. Rocks containing feldspar crystals caught the eye, some ‘pillow lavas’ that had erupted under water and numerous granite and other erratic’s which had been deposited by advancing ice, then left perhaps 10,000 years ago when the ice receded. Mt Erebus remained locked in cloud, but we knew she was there, a brooding presence. We pushed on.
We soon reached a valley then headed down to the small hut restored and cared for by the Antarctic Heritage Trust. Our trusty DoC and New Zealand Government Representative Phil along with Rodney and others managed boot cleaning from the outside. Only eight were allowed in the hut at any one time and of course everyone wanted to see Shackleton’s signature, his cubicle room, Wild and Mawson’s bunks, and perhaps to know where the whisky was hidden away or where the Aurora Australis book had been printed and bound.
Dr Huw was again host to each party, leading them round the features of the hut and sharing stories of its inhabitants. In the presence of heroes past, some felt moved to quiet contemplation, hushed reverence, tears, or to sheer joy. Or a combination of all these things. It also became something of an exercise in crowd control, such was the desire to take photographs and capture something of this spell-binding scene. Just not enough time!
Near the hut were Adelie Penguins well advanced with their moulting and many walked about the perimeter of the ASPA. Soon we were retracing our steps and by lunch all were on board. Mountains in the distance were all hues of deep gold and blue under a strong late summer sun. Orca hunted in our wake amongst the broken sea ice as we slowly worked our way out of the bay and then turned our bow northwards….
On this day in polar history: 24 February 1831. English navigator John Biscoe in the Tula and Lively, working for the British sealing business ‘The Enderby Brothers’, discovers land and names it after his employers. It is the first sighting of Antarctica in the zone south of the Indian Ocean. He is also the first to confirm that a great mass of land could exist, rather than scattered islands. 
Photo credit: D. Brown
Photo credit: D. Brown
Photo credit: D. Brown
Photo credit: D. Brown
Day 18: Sunday 25 February
Ross Sea, Heading North
Noon position: Latitude 74o43.1’South; Longitude 171o00.3’ East
Air temperature: -4oC
Gourmet Grub: Gnocchi with Tomato Pesto / Korean Pork Bulgolg / Seafood Gumbo. Dessert: Cheese Selection
Profound Question: “Do penguins nest at sea?”
Quote of the Day: “God gave people two ears and only one mouth; therefore it’s a good idea to listen a lot more than talk.” – Ranulph Fiennes
Rodney Quote of the Day: “Yes, beaten paths are for broken men.”
After such a magic and memorable couple of days, words fail us. ‘Unforgettable’. ‘Exhilarating!’ ‘Sublime’ ‘Awesome!’ ‘Spell-binding’. ‘Unbelievable!!’ Just some of the things passengers say to us over breakfast this morning. But now a chance to rest and recover after such a privilege down south. Our bows point north and we look forward to a gentle day of lectures and learning.
Leading the way this morning Huw gave his eighth lecture “Becoming the Boss”, which retold the Shackleton story through rare imagery with particular emphasis on his rise to fame and the leadership lessons that many derive from his life. In the words of one of his comrades, Jameson Adams: “He was the greatest leader that ever came on God’s earth – bar none.” Huw told us the five qualities that Shackleton looked for in companions, those factors that he thought crucial to success on an Antarctic expedition, and which he wrote about at the time: courage, physical endurance, idealism, optimism…and most important of all, patience.
Next up, the film “With Byrd at the South Pole”. This 1930 Oscar-winner was focused on All-American Hero Admiral Richard Evelyn Byrd and his first Antarctic expedition in 1928-1930, during which the base Little America was established on the Ross Ice Shelf.
From Little America, Byrd accompanied by pilot Bernt Balchen, relief pilot and radio operator Harold June and photographer Ashly McKinley, completed the first flight to the vicinity of the Geographic South Pole on 28-29 November 1929. This was achieved in a Ford Trimotor aircraft taking 18 hours and covered 1,600 miles. Byrd also took two further aircraft to Antarctica, 50 men, and 95 dogs including his own dog named Igloo, which was always destined to be the real star of the show.
After lunch a good film by Natural History New Zealand, “Emperors of Antarctica”. This dealt with the life cycle of the Emperor Penguin and was made by Max Quinn during a winter at the Cape Crozier colony on Ross Island. Now that we have been fortunate to view Emperors ourselves, the programme had a special significance.
And to round out this excellent day of learning, Rodney made a welcome return to the lecture line-up with an excellent overview of “Sea Ice”, defining the different stages of ice in all their glory and also diving deeper on his understandings of the sea ice charts. There is a science to sea ice, but to be sure nothing can replace experience down here in these difficult conditions. With hearts cheered and minds full of immeasurable memories, and another tempting menu on offer down in the restaurant, we continued to chug north up the Ross Sea in moderate seas, rolling swell. We hope to reach Cape Adare by 9am tomorrow.
Day 19: Monday 26 February
Cape Adare
Noon position: Latitude 70o49.3’South; Longitude 170o19.0’ East
Air temperature: -3oC
Gourmet Grub: Starter: Roasted beetroot & goats cheese salad. Mains: Moroccan spiced chicken breast on a bed of vegetable couscous and coriander yoghurt or Thai green fish curry, jasmine rice and vegetables. Dessert: Coconut & lime panna cotta.
Profound Question: “What was the Ross Sea called before Ross discovered it?”
Quote of the Day: “Everyman has the right to risk his own life in order to preserve it.” – Jean-Jacques Rousseau
Rodney Quote of the Day: “If life throws you boulders, make stepping stones.”
Early this morning we were chugging though scattered floes and nearing Cape Adare. There was some excitement on board, with fingers crossed in anticipation that we may make a landing here having passed by on our way down. Here men, including Carsten Borchgrevink, had landed from Henryk Bull’s whaling ship Antarcticin January 1895, this being one of the first early landings made in Antarctica. Borchgrevink had then returned in 1899 to lead the first party that spent a winter on the continent.
As we approached the Cape the weather deteriorated, snow and low cloud reduced visibility to a few metres. Captain reverted to the radar. At 4 miles off the Cape we came up against heavy ice with numerous large tabular icebergs amongst it. We couldn’t see much at all, so we followed the ice edge north, hoping that we might find a lead that would take us towards the Cape. There was nothing obvious so the Captain turned the ship in the direction of the Cape and pushed through the ice. Our speed was reduced to about 2 knots. It quickly became obvious that with no guarantee of open water at Cape Adare to push through for 5 hours was a little futile, in the finish the Captain made the decision to abort. So sadly we turned north towards the Balleny Islands. The weather had one last card to play and we sailed into a snow storm with strong South – South East winds and zero visibility.
Huw gave his ninth lecture of the voyage, “The Crossing of Antarctica” – another selection of stunning original imagery from this very important, but often overlooked, expedition.
This was followed by a film screening of the Mt Erebus story “Solid Water, Liquid Rock”. Lunch time was Pizza time, the boys had cooked up a range of pizzas and we were able to choose from a loaded Buffet.
Weather and sea conditions improved as the afternoon got older. Spider both entertained and informed us with an outstanding presentation of some of his art work. I think we all agreed he is a very talented artist.
Then our passenger Ian Campbell a geologist, admirably took the stage and gave us a very well-illustrated lecture on his work here in the Ross Sea in the 1960s and 70s. His presentation included some fascinating photos of the many field camps that he had stayed in.
It had been an astonishing week down here and though we were sad to leave many pledged to return, perhaps to the Peninsula, perhaps on another voyage deep into the Ross Sea. For one thing is certain, as the French explorer Charcot wrote, once you have visited Antarctica it is a land that always tempts you to return:
Where does this strange attraction for Polar Regions come from, so powerful, so overwhelming, that once safely home we forget the moral and physical fatigues and feel the urge to go back?
On this day in polar history: 26 February 1913. John Davis, Captain of Aurora, commences his northward voyage from Antarctica with Douglas Mawson and his expedition team members.
Day 20: Tuesday 27 February
At Sea / Balleny Islands
Noon position: Latitude 67o08.8’South; Longitude 164o20.7’East
Air temperature: -2oC
Gourmet Grub: Starter: Prawn cocktail. Mains: Pork cutlet with fennel & peach slaw and roast potatoes or Spinach, potato and feta pie. Dessert: Death by chocolate.
Profound Question: “Why is the sauna so hot?”
Quote of the Day: “Happiness is pretty simple: someone to love, something to do, something to look forward to.” – Rita Mae Brown
Rodney Quote of the Day: “Let’s wait, let’s be patient. It’s a gamble, but the whole of life is a gamble.”
We arrived off the southern tip of Sturge Island at around 06:30. The overnight run had been comfortable but in the early hours of the morning a South Westerly wind had increased to 25 knots. There was a sea building so we cruised up the east coast of the islands, hoping for as much lee or shelter as possible. We had great views of Sturge Island as we approached but this soon disappeared under fog, only to re-emerge later even more spectacularly. The lack of soundings around these islands restricted how close we could sail. We passed some amazing icebergs as we followed the coastline north.
The Balleny Islands were discovered by John Balleny in 1839 he was on an expedition searching for new sealing grounds. The expedition had sailed under the Enderby Brothers flag but in reality it had been sponsored by a number of different individual investors. There are three main islands in the group (from south to north) Sturge, Buckle and Young. They are volcanic in origin and span a distance of over 90 miles and lie on a NW-SE axis. Each of the islands are separated by a strait and there are a couple of clusters of smaller islands in these straits including Sabrina, the Monolith, Borradaile and Row. All the islands with exception of Sabrina and the Monolith are named after the investors of the expedition.
Sabrina Island is named after one of the ships and is the only island in the group to have a penguin colony. There is a small combined colony of Chinstraps and Adele’s. It is the only place in the South Pacific biogeographical region that Chinstraps can be found. We stopped at Sabrina Island with a view to doing a Zodiac cruise. Conditions were marginal one of the major concerns was an approaching snow storm which would have reduced visibility to basically zero, not ideal for Zodiac cruising. We did not Zodiac cruise.
Throughout the day we saw good numbers of Humpback Whales and a lone Minke Whale. We also noted a significant increase both in bird numbers and diversity of species. It was good to see the return of the Cape Pigeon along with good numbers of Fulmars and Snow Petrels.
Happy Hour started at 6pm and ran through until dinner started at 7pm. We cleared the north of Young Island during dinner and began our journey towards Campbell Island. Sea conditions were very favourable and most folk retired early. 
Photo credit: D. Brown
Photo credit: D. Brown
Day 21: Wednesday 28 February
Noon position: Latitude 63o17.8’South; Longitude 162o23.1’East
Air temperature: +1oC
Gourmet Grub: Starter: Corn fritter with sweet capsicum relish. Mains: Chicken breast with sage & prosciutto on creamy polenta or Lamb rump on a herb mash with braised cabbage and rosemary gravy. Dessert: Coconut & vanilla rice pudding.
Profound Question: “Does the midnight sun set above the horizon?”
Quote of the Day: “I now belong to a higher cult of mortals, for I have seen the albatross.” -Robert Cushman Murphy
A very comfortable night, sea conditions felt near perfect. We were steering due north. This course is to the west of Campbell Island but it offers the most comfortable course. We will alter course later in the trip.
Breakfast was at 08:30, following breakfast Huw gave his tenth lecture “Antarctica: Heroic Past, Global Future” a broad resume of the last 400 years of history, rare images intertwined with contemporary geopolitics.
Next came a screening of the incredibly important film “The Last Ocean”. This focused on the tooth-fish industry in the Ross Sea. Dissostichus mawsonii is named after Sir Douglas Mawson and is popularly termed the Giant Antarctic cod. A similar species, called the Patagonian tooth-fish, and known in restaurants as Chilean Sea Bass, is caught by ships operating from South America.
There is a need for greater knowledge of the physiology of the species and for creation of a Marine Reserve, which is being strongly promoted by New Zealand with support from other countries, but at the moment there seems little international agreement or political will to do the right thing here. One hopes that common sense will prevail. Like the ripples from a pebble thrown into a pond, no-one knows for sure the impacts that will occur to the ecosystem following the inevitable overfishing. But one can be sure it’s not going to be good. So we must stop before it’s too late.
The only lecture of the afternoon was a presentation by Olga on Cetaceans of Antarctica. It provided both a recap and new information on the various whale species that we have encountered on our time in the Ross Sea. Bar opened at 18:00 tonight ahead of an earlier dinner which was scheduled for 19:00 hours. Sea conditions continued to be comfortable.
Day 22: Thursday 1 March
Southern Ocean
Noon position: Latitude 59o15.1’ South; Longitude 161o31.8’ East
Air temperature: +2oC
Gourmet Grub: Beef cabbage wontons / Southern lamb shoulder / Rolled roast pork and dauphinoise. Dessert: Moonshine marshmallows
Profound Question: “Does the ship produce its own electricity?”
Quote of the Day: “Success is getting what you want. Happiness is wanting what you get.”
Rodney Quote of the Day: “Life is life. It is what it is. Full stop.”
Not a lot to report on today. We continue our northward journey albeit a little off course to make it a little more comfortable. Rodney had forecast that today would be the worse day (weather wise) of our journey north as there was a frontal system passing overhead. The north westerly swell and sea increased as the wind picked up to 25 kts, Captain altered course to the west to avoid it begin right on the beam.
With this action it wasn’t too uncomfortable but there was simply too much roll for us to safely use the lecture room for lectures/presentations as the seats were sliding around.
It was a day for simply relaxing/reading. Some folk ventured up to the bridge to watch the sea and at times the bar was reasonably full with people making cups of tea and coffee. Lunch was well attended as was dinner and then folk retired with a promise of better weather and sea conditions tomorrow.
Day 23: Friday 2 March
Southern Ocean
Noon position: Latitude 55o31.4’ South; Longitude 163o04.5’East
Air temperature: 7oC
Gourmet Grub: Smoked Salmon & Caper Linguine. Oven Roasted Chicken Breast with Roast Vegetables & Gravy or Kumara Gnocchi with Asparagus Veloute Sauce. Dessert: Decorated Sponge Cake.
Profound Question: “If it is January at North Pole, what month is it at the South Pole?”
Quote of the Day: “I must go down to the seas again, to the lonely seas and the sky, and all I ask is a square-rigged ship and a star to steer her by, and the wheel’s kick and the winds song and the white sail’s shaking, and the grey mist on the sea’s face and a grey dawn breaking.” -John Masefield
Rodney Quote of the Day: “If you aren’t the lead dog the scenery never changes”
At approx. 06:30 the sea conditions had improved sufficiently to alter course direct to Campbell Island. It hadn’t been too uncomfortable through night, but it was good to be finally heading directly to Campbell Island. Rodney suggested that we were now above the worse of the weather and we should be able to hold this course till Campbell Island. We have an eta of mid-afternoon tomorrow.
Breakfast was 08:30, again it was good to be able to relax and not have to hold onto our plates and seats.
Following this, at 10:00am, Huw gave a lecture entitled, “Across the Arctic Ocean”, on the life of polar explorer Sir Wally Herbert and the successful completion of yet another ‘impossible dream’: to make the first crossing of this vast frozen ocean. Wally first went to Antarctica as a young man in 1956, spending two winters at Hope Bay and learning to navigate by the sun and stars. He mastered the art of sledging with dogs and was leader of the team that made the first crossing of the Antarctic Peninsula. During his first Antarctic season on the Ross Sea side he would map 10,000 square miles of previously unexplored country and overwinter at NZ’s Scott Base.
As leader of his own field party in 1962 he covered 21,500 square miles of the Queen Maud Range, and as surveyors they opened the gateway to the Pole, retracing Amundsen’s route through the mountains down to the Ross Ice Shelf. They came home with a string of records and first ascents but – most important of all – they returned with the maps they had made. This was real exploration.
In 1968-69, Wally and his team completed their pioneering journey across the Arctic Ocean, some 3,720 route miles in all. Their success was hailed by Prime Minister Harold Wilson as a ‘feat of courage which ranks with any in polar history’, and, in the opinion of HRH the Duke of Edinburgh, as ‘one of the greatest triumphs of human skill and endurance’. Yet as time passed public interest and attention naturally fell away and it is only in recent years that the significance of this journey is coming back into focus. Huw is a lucky chap to be married to Wally’s daughter Kari.
At 11:30 it was Dan’s turn to give a lecture and again this focused on cetaceans. This lecture focused more on those species in the Sub Antarctic and temperate waters it also included some identification hints on dolphins (the overlooked cetaceans).
Dinner tonight was at 19:30, wildlife club was postponed until tomorrow night and everybody went to bed looking forward to Campbell Island tomorrow.
On this day in polar history: 2 March 1958. Scott Base. Sir Vivian Fuchs and the Trans-Antarctic expedition finally complete the first crossing of Antarctica. 
Photo credit: D. Brown
Day 24: Saturday 3 March
At Sea Southern Ocean. Campbell Island
Noon position: Latitude 52o38.9’South; Longitude 169o13.2’East
Air temperature: 10oC
Gourmet Grub: Corn Chowder. Fillet of Monkfish with Crispy Potatoes, Asparagus & Hollandaise or Ribeye with Mash Potato, Cauliflower Gratin and Rosemary Gravy. Dessert: Custard Tart.
Profound Question: “What is the altitude of the beach we’ll be landing on?”
Quote of the Day: “The greatest resource of the ocean is not the material but the boundless spring of inspiration and wellbeing we gain from her.” -Jacques Cousteau
Rodney Quote of the Day: “Red tape is only good for burning.”
Sea conditions were almost tropical like this morning, there was no wind, clear skies and just the slightest swell from the NW. We had had a good overnight run and at breakfast time we only had 35 miles left to run. There was a great sunrise this morning and it reminded us that we were getting further north as sunrise is getting later and later.
There was an air of excitement at breakfast, everybody was looking forward to getting ashore this afternoon. Immediately after breakfast Rachael called for the return of the blue Antarctic Jackets that had been issued on the way south, another sign that we were cruising to warmer waters. The jacket recall was followed immediately by a special Campbell Island briefing. Rodney had prepared a detailed “mud map” of Campbell Island (or at least the area we would be visiting) and explained what he proposed for our visit.
Today he was proposing that everybody would disembark after lunch and climb to Col Lyall to firstly stretch their legs but most importantly and perhaps interestingly view the Southern Royal Albatross. The following day there was going to be two options a longer full day (more difficult) walk to Northwest Bay or the alternative was a harbour Zodiac cruise to look for teal and explore historical sites in the morning and then an opportunity to return to Col Lyall in the afternoon. On Monday he was proposing (if the weather was fine) to attempt to climb Mt Honey, the highest peak on the Island. He announced that on Monday afternoon we would sail for the Auckland Islands to finish off what we had missed earlier in the expedition.
The scenery as we approached Campbell Island from the south was simply breath taking, we had great views of Mt Honey, Mt Duma and Mt Paris. The entry into the harbour was equally beautiful with blue skies and calm seas. The birdlife increased notably as we got closer, Antarctic Terns and Campbell Island Shags were the most obvious.
We dropped anchor at the head of the harbour below the abandoned metrological base. Lunch was served at 13:30 and immediately afterwards we made ready to go ashore. It was a simple dry landing … sooooooo good to get ashore. When everybody was ashore we followed Rodney up the boardwalk. The boardwalk follows around the slopes of Beeman Hill and then climbs gradually to the Col Lyall Saddle. The weather deteriorated as the afternoon got older, cloud descended and before we knew it we were shrouded in mist.
Before the cloud enveloped us we had great views of the nesting Southern Royal Albatross. At one point there was a “Gam” or group of about 5 sub adult birds together, there were some good photos taken. Most folk climbed to the terminus of the board walk, unfortunately the cloud prevented or obscured views into Northwest Bay. Folk wandered back down the boardwalk at their leisure and there were Zodiac shuttles back to the ship. The last group came off at 19:00 hours. The bar opened shortly afterwards and dinner was served at 20:30. So ended a great day. 
Photo credit: D. Brown
Day 25: Sunday 4 March
Campbell Island
Noon position: Latitude 52o32.9’South; Longitude 169o09.4’East
Air temperature: 12oC
Gourmet Grub: Garlic Prawn Skewers / Confit Duck and Wild Mushroom Pappardelle or Lamb Rump with Roast Potatoes, Mixed vegetables and Rosemary Jus. Dessert: Flourless Chocolate Cake.
Profound Question: “Are any icebergs volcanic?”
Quote of the Day: “Not all those who wander are lost.” –Tolkien
On Shackleton’s expedition, today: 4 March 1915. “Bright sunshine all day, and the work of the ice ‘dog-loos’ continues. The dogs are housed in them. Endurance still trapped immoveable.”
Campbell Island was discovered by Captain Frederick Hasselburgh of the sealing brig Perseverance in 1810, the same year as Macquarie Island, also by Hasselburgh, and was named for his employers Robert Campbell & Co of Sydney. The weather can be summarised as typically British – cool, cloudy, wet and windy, often all in the same day – though of course much more extreme than Britain! The island only receives 650 hours of bright sunshine annually and less than one hour on 215 days (59%) of the year. We would have to take our chances with the weather, but expect rain and prepare for it.
And rain and fog we got.. a full day of it. There were two options today a) a long(er) walk to Northwest Bay and b) harbour Zodiac cruise in the morning and back to Col Lyall in the afternoon.
Rodney and Olga led the walk to Northwest Bay, they were accompanied by 24 keen hikers. They started out in rain and low cloud from Camp Cove. It was a steady climb up an overgrown track to Cave Rock. Shortly after Cave Rock they entered the cloud and didn’t have any views until they descend down the 1980 fence line. Lunch was shared huddled in the thick scrub on the slopes of Mt Duma, it was the only sheltered spot. Once below the cloud they proceeded to the Northwest Bay hut and from there to Capstan Cove or Windlass Bay. As we descended the steep slopes we saw a single Campbell Island Flightless Teal feeding in the sea. From this Cove we had to ascend a ridge to the north and access was via “Grunt Gully” a section of the track which Rodney had warned us about. It took about 40 mins of clambering up a wet muddy narrow gully before we gained the ridge. After all this struggle we were greeted by a smiling sea lion at the top, one wonders how it got there. We re-entered the fog and stayed in it until we reached the lower slopes of Homestead Ridge. The tide was high and we were forced to clamber around the lower slopes of Tucker Cove to get to Beeman Base where Spider and Huw were waiting with the Zodiacs…. The hot shower and the Bar never looked so good.
The other group had enjoyed a windy/wet Zodiac ride but had been rewarded with some outstanding views of the flightless teal. This observation was disturbed by a Yellow Penguin demanding some attention which folk were happy to give. The group made a landing at Camp Cove to inspect the loneliest tree in the world and see the site of book “The lady of the Heather”. Unlike the Northwest Bay walkers they enjoyed lunch in the comfort and warmth of the ships dining rooms. There was an option for them to return to Col Lyall after lunch. Many of them took the option but when the skies opened and it rained heavily the majority called it a day and headed back down the boardwalk. The last of the Col Lyall team was back on board by 18:00.
The bar-library was a lively place tonight in the run up to a well earned dinner, full of good stories and warm humour. It was also the setting for the much anticipated ‘Limerick Contest’. Inspired by maritime tradition and dubious polar word play, this limerick-fest was organised by Dr Huw. Passengers offered their entries during three days deep in the Ross Sea. In all some 114 poems were submitted.
Sadly, most were not limericks but some certainly deserved maximum points for style! The judging panel narrowed down this trove to just a final twelve limericks to be presented as a competition, with the winner chosen by the passengers themselves. Here are a few tasters written by Huw, which he performed as host of the event, to set the scene:
A seaman named Spider worked the ships,
Wooing ladies in return for small tips.
Ten dollars a poke,
Five euros a stroke,
And just a pound for a kiss on the lips. You’ve heard much from Professor Huw Jones,
Of Captain Scott’s death and cold bones.
It remains a mystery,
In all this epic history,
Why they didn’t use satellite phones…
Suitably encouraged and well-fuelled, the twelve authors of the chosen limericks performed their verses in front of the assembled throng and were met with groans and cheers. By popular consent, this limerick was the winner:
To the Heritage Crew I vow
Rachael, Dan, Spider, Simon, oh wow
And though Huw was a treat
Rodney had them all Beat
He and Olga waist deep at the Bow Carolyn Costin 510
Raising the bar academically – and lowering the tone – it was a fun competition and ensured many a good laugh. Heroic Age expeditions often featured verse contests like this. They were a good way to keep spirits up and minds occupied.
Shackleton and his men did this kind of thing most Saturday evenings on the Endurance voyage, singing songs accompanied by the banjo, making up poems and limericks, giving lectures, performing plays even, and always making sure to lift a glass with the toast “To Sweethearts and Wives”. It was met with the standard refrain, “May they never meet!”
Day 26: Monday 5 March
Campbell Island. At Sea to Carnley Harbour.
Noon position: Latitude 52o32.9’South; Longitude 169o09.4’East
Air temperature: 10C
Gourmet Grub: Beetroot, Orange & Almond Salad. Mediterranean Chicken with Rice or Crispy Port Belly with Mash Potato & Vegetable Panache. Dessert: Berry Crumble with Crème Anglaise.
Profound Question: “Do penguins really go out in this sort of weather?”
Quote of the Day: “Life is either a daring adventure, or nothing at all.” –Helen Keller
Rodney Quote of the Day: “Heading up to look at an Albatross colony is like visiting a student flat – nothing gets going until the afternoon.”
What a contrast to yesterday. Rodney had woken at 05:30 to check the weather, it was a beautiful calm clear moonlit morning. Mt Honey was free of fog and cloud. He made the decision to proceed with the plan for a group to make an ascent on the summit (569 metres). Those that had signed up last night were woken at 06:00 and invited to enjoy a continental breakfast prior to heading out at 07:00 to Garden Cove. Leading the group was Dr Huw, assisted by Spider and Heidi. The Dr and DoC Phil also accompanied them. There were 15 excited passengers. Rodney and Dan dropped them at the head of the Cove. They were later seen on the summit and the reports of the group were that it was “outstanding”, “magical”, “incredible” and “amazing”. From the peak they had great views over all of Campbell Island. The team was all smiles when picked up at 12:30 hours. It is a fairly sure bet that the smiles masked a few aching limbs and sore muscles.
The remainder of the group enjoyed a cooked breakfast at 07:30 and at 09:00 they had the option of a) returning to Col Lyall with Racheal or doing a Zodiac cruise with Dan, Olga and Rodney. The Zodiac cruise team covered a lot of the coast line and struggled to find a teal. It was a low tide and we wondered if this contributed to the lack of birds. Finally we found one lone teal in Garden Cove, it behaved beautifully and everybody got some great photos. Interestingly there was a young Elephant seal not far away ... almost certainly an animal from Macquarie Island.
Racheal’s team had made it all the way to the end of the boardwalk and were lucky enough to witness about a group of 8 albatross gaming. They enjoyed some great views over Northwest Bay to Dent Island, where in 1975 Rodney had rediscovered the Teal. Sadly no snipe were seen despite some intense looking and searching. They were back at the landing at 12:15 hours.
With everybody on board Captain raised the anchor and we set sail for Carnley Harbour in the Auckland Islands some 150 nm miles to the NW. Once clear of the harbour we felt the swells of the Southern Ocean. It wasn’t too uncomfortable but a little too rolly to lecture so it was a quiet time for folk to relax, down load photos, catch up on personal journals or lie down in case’s of sea sickness.
On this day in polar history. 5 March 1924. Herbert Ponting releases a feature-length version of his Scott film, The Great White Silence. His film is later purchased for the nation by the British Empire Film Institute. In 1933 he releases the first sound version of his film as Ninety Degrees South.
Also, on this day in polar history: 5 March 1922. Shackleton is buried in the Whaler’s Cemetery at Grytviken, South Georgia.
Photo credit: H. Dohn
Photo credit: D. Brown
Photo credit: D. Brown
Day 27: Tuesday 6 March
Auckland Islands
Noon position: Latitude 50o46.8’South; Longitude 166o02.3’East
Air temperature: 9oC
Gourmet Grub: NZ Green Lipped Mussels with Tomato & Chilli Concasse and Fresh bread. Beef Wellington with Roast Potatoes & Green Peas or Blue Cod with Perlas Potatoes, Cannellini Bean Puree. Dessert: Chocolate Pudding with Ice Cream
Profound Question: “Do seals ever get seasick?”
Quote of the Day: “Think wisely, plan boldly, act swiftly.”
We made good speed overnight and arrived at the eastern entrance to Carnley Harbour at approx. 06:00. The calm still waters of the harbour were a welcome relief from the rock and rolling of last night, even though it wasn’t bad. Rodney made an announcement ahead of the wake up call encouraging us to be on deck as there was clear weather and great views. The plan as announced by Rodney was to steam to the upper reaches of the north arm of Carnley Harbour and if conditions permitted make two landings a) the wreck of the Grafton and b) Erlangen Clearing.
Breakfast was scheduled for 08:00 and immediately following that we had to undertake a quarantine check. Quarantine or biosecurity checks are required for inter-island visits and as we had been ashore at Campbell Island only yesterday it was important that we check our clothing and footwear for seeds and mud. As we were completing the quarantine checks the staff prepared five Zodiacs. Sea conditions were very pleasant as we made our way across the harbour to where the Grafton was wrecked in Dec 1864. It became the first recorded shipwreck on the Auckland Islands. Dr Huw had given us a lecture on it (and other ship wrecks) on our way south. It was an easy landing and when everybody was ashore Rodney set the scene with a brief description of the events, telling how the crew had survived the wreck and then lived here for 18 months before sailing their modified dinghy to Stewart Island to get help. He encouraged us to read the accounts of two of the men wrecked there. The books were “Wrecked on a Reef and “Twenty months on the Auckland Isles”. We then had time to explore the site, part of the wreck can still be seen in the creek and there are remains of their hut under the forest not far from the beach. Three pigs and one cat were seen on the beach, a reminder that this island is modified and consequently the bird life is not as abundant. Plans are being drawn up for eradicating the introduced animals but the money has not been allocated.
Back on board the Zodiacs we cruised further up the harbour pass Figure 8 Island. This is an important sea lion breeding site and we could see the flattened tussock and mud wallows where the animals had been concentrated. Continuing further up the harbour, Rodney pointed out a sign post that had been erected in the 1870s to direct any castaway sailors to the castaway depots that had been erected by the NZ Government.
Our second landing of the morning was on a rocky point. After we had all landed Rodney set the scene … this was the site that the German ship Erlangen had cut over 200 tons of Rata wood to fire its boilers to escape from NZ at the outbreak of the Second World War. It remained here undetected for several weeks firstly at anchor and when that proved too inefficient the Captain beached the vessel. The Chinese crew using homemade axes and saws cleared a large area of forest. We explored the area and you could still see the stumps of the trees which had been cut. This event had contributed to the “Cape Expedition” code name for the Coastwatcher’s that worked in the Sub Antarctic Islands during the war.
We cruised the coastline on our way back to the ship and watched some large flocks of Sooty Shearwaters feeding. The Captain got the vessel underway as soon as the Zodiacs were lashed and we sailed out of Carnley Harbour bound for Musgrave Inlet. We also enjoyed lunch. The wind had increased by the time we dropped in Musgrave Inlet. Rodney announced a walk or hike to Lake Henimoa from the head of the Inlet. With the freshening breeze it was a lively ride in but the landing was good. Rodney and Olga led the walk. The track had been marked in the early 90s and was rarely used and consequently the track was a little hard to follow. Huw and Spider stayed on the beach to look after about a dozen non walkers and the Zodiacs.
It was a beautiful walk through (more correctly under) mature Rata forest with patches of sub canopy scrub. There were a couple of muddy creeks but by this stage we were used to mud. The lake lies behind a terminal moraine from the last period of glaciation. At the head of the lake is a magnificent waterfall and hanging valley system. It was windy when we were there, it helped set the atmosphere, which was great considering this was our last landing of this expedition.
By 18:30 hours when we were heading back to the ship the winds had increased to 35+ knots, it was an exhilarating downwind ride, at the ship we had to go into a holding pattern until the ship swung on its anchor giving lee on the starboard side. When water was calm we scrambled up the gangway.
We set a course to the Port of Lyttelton. There is some uncertainty about our disembarkation because the port workers have announced a strike for more wages ….just another challenge for Rodney and his team. 
Photo credit: O. Belonovich
Photo credit: D. Brown
Day 28: Wednesday 7 March
At Sea
Noon position: Latitude 47o53.5’South; Longitude 168o44.7’ East
Air temperature: 13oC
Gourmet Grub: Honey and Sesame Prawns. Puy Lentil Dahl with Vegetables, Raita & Naan Bread or Lemon & Herb Chicken Thigh with Roasted Potatoes and Vegetables. Dessert: Berry Crumble with Crème Anglaise
Profound Question: “How long is happy hour?”
Quote of the Day: “I love deadlines. I like the whooshing sound they make as they fly by.” –Douglas Adams
A rolly night as the westerly winds reached 30 kts for a while. The resulting swells catching the ship on the beam. Despite this we made very good time. The wind and as a result the swells were swinging more to the SW which meant they were astern of us... pushing us along. Both the winds and swell are forecast to ease by midday. Our good speed and weather has also worked to our advantage as Rodney announced that the port workers at Lyttelton had postponed their strike action by one day (now starting on the 9th ) so Rodney has organised for us to come into port on the evening of the 8th, thereby avoiding the strike action. Well done.
By 11:00 the rolling had more or less diminished and we were able to use the lecture room again. Dr Huw presented a lecture, his penultimate lecture, entitled “Explorers Sketch Books” … in this lecture he looked at a number of explorers through the journals/logbooks that have survived. These books give rare insights both to the men and their expeditions.
After lunch which was scheduled for 13:30 we had the opportunity to watch a documentary on the Campbell Island rat eradication program. When it was undertaken in 2001 it was a world leader, nobody had ever undertaken an eradication program of such magnitude. The documentary followed the team as it prepared for and then carried out the project. It was great to watch it after our visit as we recognised a number of the places. The aerial photography was especially good.
The last presentation of the day was from Phil (DoC) Rep. He began with a introduction in Maori (he explained the significance of it) and then with a few co-opted team members they sang a Maori song. Phil then talked about his time on Raoul Island and on the Auckland and Campbell Islands and described how those experiences had influenced his career in conservation advocacy.
Bar opened at 18:30 and dinner was served at 19:30. After dinner the entire group gathered in the starboard side dining room and sang a song entitled “On the last trip of Rodney” a tribute to Rodney on his last official expedition with Heritage Expeditions.
As we approached the New Zealand coast this evening, sea birds followed the ship and gathered in its wake, with a number of Northern Royal Albatrosses being seen.
Day 29: Thursday 8 March
At Sea to Port of Bluff
Noon position: Latitude 43o58.5’South; Longitude 173o10.5’East
Air temperature: 15oC
Gourmet Grub: A Farewell Feast featuring: French Onion Soup, Chicken & Cognac Pate with Cumberland Sauce & Crostini. Rack of Lamb with Herbed Potatoes, pea Puree & Jus or Crispy Skin Salmon with Sweet Soy Glaze, Black Rice and Vegetables. Dessert: Cheese Buffet.
Profound Question: “Is it forecast to be sunny tonight?”
Quote of the Day: “We shall not seek from exploration / And at the end of our exploring / Will be to arrive where we started / And know the place for the first time.” -TS Eliot.
An avalanche of congratulations greeted the lovely Olga at staff breakfast – today we celebrate ‘Women’s Day’. It was a nice way to begin our last day at sea.
Another beautiful morning at sea, running up the east coast of South Island under a full sun and balmy sea conditions. Albatross and White-chinned Petrels skimmed the mill-pond surface. Interesting too to reflect, after our own polar journey, that on this day in history, 8 March 1912, Amundsen finally reaches port in Hobart. He telegraphs a secret message to Norway, which then runs in the papers to inform the world that he has beaten Scott to the Pole.
Rodney presented the penultimate lecture/presentation this morning entitled “Running ships, gaining permissions”. In this presentation he gave us some rare insights into what it takes to actually maintain and run a vessel such as the Prof Khromov and then described the process of obtaining the necessary permits and permissions to run these sort of expeditions both here in the Sub Antarctic and Russia.
The final lecture of the expedition was given by Dr Huw and with special guest presenter – Spider Wilson. The lecture was preceded by the Beard Competition, who’s beard was this??? It was difficult and nobody scored very highly. However almost everybody guessed Spiders and Rodney’s. In his lecture that followed he showed a number of previously unpublished paintings, drawings and even logbooks from a number of earlier explorers/adventurers, highlighting the value of these to our understanding of the regions they visited. He then invited Spider to tell his story through some of his paintings.
At 13:00 the ‘last lunch’ was enjoyed, thanks again to the efforts of our hard-working chefs. And then, from 14:15 onwards, the final judgement day. The moment many had been dreading – the time to settle onboard accounts!
We arrived at the pilot station at 16:00 and the pilot boarded us for the final leg of the journey up the harbour to our berth. It was a beautiful warm calm day and we enjoyed spectacular views of Banks Peninsula. More than one person commented on the similarities between this area and the Auckland Islands.
Rodney hosted the “Expedition Recap” in which we shared the highs and lows of our adventure and enjoyed Olga’s AMAZING slide show of images and music. It had been a lovely day of sunshine and admin, quiet reflection and backing-up – memories, photos, journals, and addresses – with new friendships toasted over tea and cake, or rum and salt spray.
The information and ship positions will enable you to plot our course on a chart when you get home and the brief narrative should be helpful when sorting through your photographic record. The limericks might also raise a smile, even though memories of much will fade. But listen to those memories, for in them lives the essence of the A-factor. The happy times in Antarctica will call out to you when you least expect it. I’m sure you’ll be back.
Perhaps a new trip to the Arctic too? In the words of one of Shackleton’s favourite poets Robert Browning, “Do you hear the Little Voices?”
They're calling from the wilderness, the vast and God-like spaces,
The stark and sullen solitudes that sentinel the Pole.
They miss my little camp-fires, ever brightly, bravely gleaming
In the womb of desolation, where was never man before;
As comradeless I sought them, lion-hearted, loving, dreaming,
And they hailed me as a comrade, and they loved me evermore.
And now they're all a-crying, and it's no use me denying;
The spell of them is on me and I'm helpless as a child;
My heart is aching, aching, but I hear them, sleeping, waking; It's the Lure of Little Voices, it's the mandate of the Wild.
Oh Shackleton, he always was a bit of a softie! But, you get the point. He longed to return to the ice. The great white south, and the majesty of sub-Antarctic islands rich in wildlife, all have this pull factor in abundance. They are areas to be cherished, to be treasured, and to be spoken up for. Be ambassadors for these fine places when you get home, tell your friends and families of the adventures you’ve had. Do what Shackleton did too – feel free to embellish the story a little! A glass of whisky often helps. Don’t always let the truth get in the way of a good story.
But here’s one absolute truth. We’ve all appreciated the hard work of our Expedition Leader Rodney and his team, Captain Dimitry and his officers, along with Olga, Heidi and the rest of the valuable crew. Our knowledge of the sub-Antarctic Islands and Antarctica has been richly improved and the expedition will certainly be one that we will remember for many years.
In all we covered 4894 nautical miles, and got back precisely on time. In a way nothing, and yet everything, has changed since we left. We return home to our daily lives and routines but remembering this – the joy of endless Enderby tussock, or the force of the Southern Ocean, perhaps the first sound of the sea ice under our bow, maybe the smell of old socks in Scott’s hut, or the simple feeling of sunshine on your face as you sit at the top of a hillside full of Southern Royal Albatross. Real happiness is to be found here. Do come again soon.
Day 30: Friday 9th March
Port of Lyttelton
We spent the night tied along the wharf. Breakfast was scheduled for 07:00 and then we had officials from NZ Immigration and Quarantine come on board to clear the ship and us back into NZ. When this formality was finally over we were allowed ashore.
The crew brought our baggage off the ship and loaded it onto a coach bound for the city and the airport. Final farewells were said and we departed. The end or maybe just the beginning who knows.
