1875: Ross Sea - Wake of Scott & Shackleton 10 Jan 2018

Day 1: Monday 10th January
Invercargill, New Zealand

The passengers and staff arrived in Invercargill, a lovely town at the southern end of New Zealand’s South Island. Those who had some time to wander were rewarded with many surprising discoveries such as the Hayes Hardware Store, Botanical Gardens or the Motor Museum. A dinner was enjoyed at the Kelvin Hotel giving an opportunity for passengers to get acquainted before their voyage begins. For many it will be the experience of a lifetime and eager anticipation of the voyage ahead was evident in the many conversations around the tables.  

Day 2: Thursday 11th January 
Invercargill/Port of Bluff – New Zealand

The day began with a hearty breakfast at the hotel with the excitement of a new adventure in the air. The passengers gathered in the hotel lobby where luggage was put through the customs process. Once completed the suitcases and bags were whisked off to the Spirit of Enderby, berthed at the wharf in Bluff, to be placed in their assigned cabins. The morning’s activity included a visit to the Invercargill Museum and a special presentation on New Zealand’s unique Tuatara. This reptilian species is seriously endangered despite the fact that their lives usually exceed one hundred years. The museum is also a repository for the fascinating maritime history of the region. The busy morning concluded with a nourishing lunch at the hotel. At 1:15 a.m. we boarded our bus for the short drive out to the ship. On disembarking on the wharf some of us posed for a photo with the ship while others walked up the gangway to discover their cabins. Once we had settled into our cabins it was time to clear customs since we were leaving New Zealand territory. This all went smoothly and was followed by a briefing from our EL – Expedition Leader, Rodney Russ, founder of Heritage Expeditions, who is on his final voyages before starting new adventures to sail his new yacht into Arctic waters. The staff introductions were then followed by a safety message – “Always keep one hand for yourself and one hand for the ship”. The formal part of the program ended with the lifeboat drill – only required if we need to ‘abandon ship’ signalled by seven short blasts followed by one long one – times three! The most exciting part of the day belonged to the ship’s pilot who guided the Spirit of Enderby out of the harbour. In order to make his exit he had to leap off the rope ladder from the ship onto the harbour patrol boat that had come up alongside. It was a very deft manoeuvre carried out in heavy seas. Quite exciting to witness. After winding down in the bar our chefs, Ed and Lance, served up a delicious dinner of either Glazed Salmon or New Zealand Lamb with Blueberry & Almond Cake for dessert – Yum! Now off to bed and see what tomorrow brings – perhaps The Snares??  

Day 3: Friday 12th January 
The Snares 
48⁰ S. 166⁰ 30’ E.

We were awakened at 6:00 a.m. with the announcement from Rodney that we needed to prepare for a Zodiac cruise. The strong seas had abated and we were going to explore The Snares! Hooray! The sun was shining and the birdlife circling the island was incredible to behold. We split into two groups using three Zodiacs with the first group departing at 7:15 a.m. First Rodney gave us a briefing on The Snares history and then explained Zodiac loading/unloading procedures as well as the intricacies of the Zodiac life-vest. We were eager to experience our first excursion into the Sub-Antarctic. We were not disappointed as our Zodiac drivers competently took us to a fascinating unique part of the world. We saw hundreds of Cape Petrels, dozens of Buller Albatross and then thousands of the endemic Snares Crested Penguin. These were our first penguins and they put on a show oblivious to our presence. Many were scattered along different portions of the island but an equal number were seen cavorting offshore, bobbing up as a group only a few metres from the Zodiacs. Cameras were kept busy as the wildlife included several New Zealand Fur Seals resting on the rocks, a group of Antarctic Terns and sightings of the tiny, black and endemic Snares Island Tomtit. Occasionally, a Hooker’s Sea Lion would swim past our Zodiac only to quickly disappear under water. We then returned to our ship and, using the ‘sailor’s grip’ disembarked and mounted the gangway to our breakfast awaiting. It was a marvellous start to our journey.

The afternoon program featured a briefing on biosecurity and an inspection and sign-off of our clothing. This was followed by an interesting lecture on the Auckland Islands by Rodney who has intimate knowledge on its history and bio-diversity. This ensured we would be well prepared for our visit to the Auckland Islands, a World Heritage Site. The plan is to spend two days exploring its geography, wildlife and history. During our quiet time passengers are finding their sea-legs and can be seen out on the decks with camera in hand or just admiring the superb flying skills of the prions, petrels and albatross. This evening’s Wildlife Club Meeting, led by Lisle, will certainly be a lively one with many species to be ticked off the list. The weather has been excellent all day and the seas remarkably calm as we now make for our next destination, the Auckland Islands. With favourable weather we expect to arrive in Port Ross by mid-night. That will ensure a good night’s sleep for all.


Photo credit: L. Gwynn

Day 4: Saturday 13th January
The Auckland Islands – Enderby Island 
50⁰ 40’ S. 166⁰ 10 E.

We were gently awakened at 6:15 a.m. and learned that the sun was shining and the winds were non-existent. On looking out from our cabins we could see that we had indeed arrived in Port Ross which explained the deep sleep we had enjoyed. It would be a perfect day for visiting Enderby Island. And so it was. The first agenda item was an early morning briefing on the day’s program where two options were presented. Option one was to take the boardwalk across the island to its northern boundary and return to spend a quiet day observing the endless amusing antics of the hundreds of Hooker Sea Lions on Sandy Beach since it was the height of the breeding season. The second was to extend the walk and continue to circumnavigate the perimeter of the island arriving back at Sandy Beach, a distance of about 10-15km. As it turned out 42 people chose the longer walk.

For both groups it was a magic day with new experiences around every turn. We observed much new wildlife including parakeets, snipes, Auckland Island Flightless Teal, and Yellow-eyed Penguins. An additional bonus was our sighting of Light-mantled Sooty Albatross sitting on their cliff-side nests. Hooker Sea Lions were abundant and Sandy Beach was alive with the roar of the mature bulls and the squeals of the new born pups. The long walkers visited the sight of the 1887 wreck of the Derry Castle where 15 people perished. There was an occasional sea lion approach providing additional excitement to the outing. Although late in the growing season the plant life and flowers, including gentiana cerina and red Rata trees, were outstanding and the subject of many photographs. We enjoyed some free time at the end of the day which allowed us to complete our photography goals and meander at leisure amongst the beautiful scenes that nature presented to us on such a glorious day.

We returned to the Spirit of Enderby feeling tired but happy and looking forward to a hot shower and the tasty dinner that Ed and Lance would produce. An hour was spent in the bar recounting the experiences of the day and enjoying the camaraderie of our shipmates. A rousing rendition of Happy Birthday was sung by all as Helen celebrated her 60th. What a wonderful way to close a chapter of life. The day closed with a very productive meeting of the Wildlife Club that filled in many of the gaps in the record. During the night we’ll travel the 30 miles south to Carnley Harbour where we’ll pass through its magnificent entrance and visit the other two islands of the Auckland’s, Adams Island (no landing here), and the main Auckland Island. Day five looks to be another exciting day.


Photo credit: S. Gutowsky

Day 5: Sunday 14th January
Auckland Islands – Carnley Harbour 
50⁰ 40’ S. 166⁰ 10 E. 

Our Hotel Manager Heidi awakened us at 6:45 a.m. to announce a heavy fog limiting visibility within Carnley Harbour. But the weather Gods were smiling on us and within half an hour the fog began to disperse and blue sky appeared overhead. As we proceeded further down the Western arm of the harbour the weather continued to improve. Finally we reached our destination in sight of the renowned and rarely visited Victoria Passage which separates Adams Island from the main Auckland Island. Adams Island is pest free and the passage helps maintain that status as a barrier to destructive pests. At our daily briefing two alternative excursions were presented. One was a Zodiac cruise along the shoreline and up into the end of the Western arm. The other was a strenuous hike up 200m to witness one of nature’s marvels – the breeding colony of the Shy AlbatrossThalassarche cauta. Our climb up the tussock slope was amply rewarded with a spectacular view down onto the cliff-side colony. There were hundreds of birds nesting on the surrounding cliffs while at any one time dozens were observed in flight against the dark blue ocean below. We were all stunned at the beauty of the scene before us. After taking our photos we rested for half an hour and simply gazed on in admiration. Our walk back down to the Zodiacs was a chance to absorb the magnificence of what we had just witnessed. As an added treat, and since we were blessed with calm seas and sunny skies our Zodiac drivers, Lisle and Rodney, took us through the narrow Victoria Passage on our way back to the ship – as did those on the Zodiac cruise. 

We arrived in time for a welcome lunch. During the afternoon we were treated to a presentation by Lisle, our bird-man cum photography consultant, entitled ‘Seabirds of the Southern Ocean’. It was standing room only as we learned how to differentiate between the various sub-species of the albatross, petrel, shearwater and prion families. It was full of interesting information and excellent photographs. Our enjoyment of the birds that accompany our ship on this voyage will be greatly enhanced as a result. Lisle did admit that separation of sub-species from the moving ship is not an easy task but practice (and good binoculars) should improve our chances since now we know what to look for. During our happy hour at the bar Louise and Rodney completed the story of the Auckland Islands with additional detail on the sea lion populations and island history. We sail away this evening with an expanded appreciation for the Auckland Islands. With two good hikes under our belt we welcome the day of rest tomorrow as we sail down to our next destination, Macquarie Island.

Day 6: Monday 15th January
At Sea

After two exciting days at the Auckland Islands we sailed out of Carnley Harbour and made a right turn south saying farewell to a fascinating group of islands. We certainly were fortunate and caught the Auckland Islands at their best. We’re now making our way towards our next destination, Macquarie Island, which lies 1500km south of New Zealand. We won’t arrive there before midnight. Today the Southern Ocean is living up to its name as we traverse the ‘Furious Fifties’. This has given us the chance to organise the hundreds of photos we’ve taken since departure as well as to write a few postcards to friends in faraway places. They will be special editions as the Macquarie Island postal office will stamp each one individually. Delivery could be a bit slower than usual however since the next ship doesn’t leave Macquarie Island until April!

By now most of us have gained our sea legs and are enjoying spending time on the bridge or in the fresh air out on deck. The variety of birds following the ship is truly amazing. The temperature is beginning to drop and it won’t be long before we put on the cold weather gear. This afternoon many of us caught up on sleep to renew our energy for the visit to Macquarie Island. Rodney gave a very informative lecture on the history and fauna of the island which is under the administrative wing of the Tasmanian Parks & Wildlife Service and supported logistically by the Australian Antarctic Division. Macquarie Island has only recently been formed geologically about 500,000 years ago and is still rising at a fast pace as the Pacific and Australasian tectonic plates continue to collide with each other. It’s our intention to land at Sandy Bay tomorrow on the eastern shore to avoid the rougher seas of the west coast which is buffeted by the prevailing westerly. Tonight we prepared for tomorrow’s bio-security inspection to allow for a quick start to the day. It will be an early night for most after we enjoyed a delicious dinner of pan-fried salmon or chicken risotto. Our program is always subject to weather conditions but luck has been with us every day so far. Fingers crossed.

Day 7: Tuesday 16th January
Macquarie Island 
54⁰ 30’ S. 158⁰ 40 E. 

Last night everyone enjoyed a good sleep and all are ready to enjoy the new day ahead. We can see Macquarie Island through our portholes since the Spirit of Enderby is holding position outside Buckle’s Bay near the northern tip of the island. We can see the Australian base on the isthmus. This morning the Zodiacs delivered Jan the medical doctor to the base and picked up three rangers, Andrea, Matt and Penny from the Tasmanian Parks & Wildlife Service. They’ll accompany us on our visit to Sandy Bay which has been postponed to tomorrow morning. Our attempt to land this afternoon has been forestalled by a sudden change in the wind now coming from the south and has been re-scheduled for tomorrow morning. Today’s afternoon program will focus on two lectures and a film describing the extensive pest eradication effort that has made the island completely pest-free and established as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The project extended over a period of several years and cost $32M dollars. The island was declared free of pests in 2014, three years ahead of schedule with the elimination of the last mice and rabbits. We’ve all completed our bio-security inspection and will be ready to land on the island tomorrow morning.

This afternoon’s program ended with a lecture by Lisle on photography in the Antarctic; that is, how to ensure we return home with quality photographs. His advice will go a long way towards ensuring we capture the memories of our voyage for ourselves and also for our friends and family to enjoy. The Wildlife Club was able to celebrate several highlights as the ship was visited all afternoon by swarms of Antarctic Prions. In addition, there were rafts of penguins spotted on the seas surrounding the ship including the diminutive Chinstrap Penguin and the Gentoo Penguin. Cameras were snapping excitedly when three mature Orca whales appeared near the ship and stayed with us for almost 30 minutes spouting and surfacing at various times near the ship. Our chefs Ed and Lance gave us another delicious meal to remember, a difficult choice between roast pork belly and John Dory on couscous followed by a custard panna cotta dessert. We’ll sleep well tonight and be ready for an early 6:30 a.m. start tomorrow when we plan to land on Sandy Bay Beach.


Photo credit: S. Gutowsky

Day 8: Wednesday 17th January
Macquarie Island – Sandy Bay, Buckles Bay, AAD Base

Dobroe ootro! We were awakened at 6:30 a.m. with the announcement that it was all go for a landing on the beach at Sandy Bay. Breakfast was set for 7:30 a.m. with an 8:30 a.m. start for the Zodiacs. The weather had settled down since yesterday and the landing went very smoothly. We were dressed for cold wet conditions so the occasional drizzle did little to dampen our spirits. What a magnificent scene greeted us on the beach. The King Penguins formed a welcome party and gathered around us as we tossed our life jackets into the box and listened while our Australian ranger explained the best way to visit the area. We were easily distracted by the cacophony of activity around us – Elephant Seals were grunting and burping without embarrassment. The King Penguins were fraternizing with the sparky Royal Penguins as they both marched up and down the beach, some groups detouring into the surf while another contingent would emerge from the sea after feeding and with amusing yet mighty effort make their way onto the beach. Pairs of frisky juvenile Elephant Seals could be seen performing their mock battles for breeding superiority, rising up and throwing their enormous bodies against each other like medieval battering rams. Giant Petrels and restless skuas patrolled the coastline with their sharp vision always engaged for a free meal. We were mesmerised and at a loss for words as we wandered freely in the midst of Macquarie Island’s ‘Noah’s Ark’ of wildlife. A highlight was the boardwalk leading up to the enormous Royal Penguin colony above the beach where an estimated 60,000 penguins reside. The weather improved as the morning progressed and the last group returned to the ship at 12:30 p.m. after almost four hours observing, photographing and inhaling the memorable aromas of Sandy Bay. 

After an excellent Italian pasta lunch we dressed once more for our second visit to the island. This time we landed at Buckles Bay on the eastern side of the northern isthmus of the island. Again it was a smooth landing but a very different experience from Sandy Bay. This is the location of the Australian Antarctic Division Research Station and is also where the Australian explorer Douglas Mawson established the communications station for his Australian Antarctic Expedition of 1911-14. It has been an active research station continuously since 1948. We separated into four groups and were guided by a base staff member for a memorable afternoon. Beginning with a short climb up a stairway to the viewing platform we had a wonderful outlook northward on the base and the isthmus. Light-mantled Albatross flew in formation overhead at regular intervals. We then descended to the path and made our way to the western side of the isthmus through lush grasses with Elephant Seals lurking behind almost every tussock, in some cases three deep piled on top of one another. There we encountered a new penguin species, the Gentoo. Their orange feet and white head markings confirmed their lineage and we found ourselves once again reaching for our cameras. Our next stop was the station museum where we examined the relics that have been found on the island. These vary from spars lost from shipwrecks and staves of barrels that carried animal oil to Sydney to whale teeth of leviathans that have come to grief on the island. The station then hosted us to afternoon tea and scones which was welcomed heartily by all. This gave us an opportunity to purchase some souvenirs and mail home a few postcards. The tour ended with a visit to the digesters with which entrepreneur Joseph Hatch produced animal oil from elephant seals and penguins, a business that fortunately ended in 1911. We returned to the ship well satisfied with our day, having been out in the Subantarctic brisk climate for nine hours. Ed, Lance, Kate and Olga served up another delicious dinner of fish and chicken while we discussed which part of the day we found to be the most amazing. There were many candidates.

The day ended with another highlight as the Spirit of Enderby sailed turning southward once again. As we passed the southernmost portion of the eastern coastline we approached Lusitania Bay, the site of one of the largest penguin populations on the planet. The King Penguin colony alone has hundreds of thousands residents. It was yet another highlight in what had been an incredible day. We now looked forward to sailing through the ‘screaming sixties’ on our way to the frozen southern continent – Antarctica!


Photo credit: S. Gutowsky

Photo credit: S. Gutowsky

Day 9: Thursday 18th January
At Sea 
 
Everyone had an early night and slept well although the ‘motion of the ocean’ had noticeably increased towards morning as we were once again in the open seas no longer sheltered by any adjacent islands. This would be the case for the next four days as we crossed the ‘screaming 60’s’ – also known as the ‘dead zone’ for the lack of bird life nor sight of land. Our daily program would be subject to weather and sea conditions but would give us time to reflect on the special experiences we had enjoyed on the Sub-Antarctic Islands and to organise our photographs and update our diaries. The library would also become a well visited facility and lectures on a variety of topics would certainly be well attended.

Our EL gave us a morning briefing on what we might expect as we make our way south to Cape Adare and then into the Ross Sea. Rodney described the latest ice chart and indicated that this year the annual ice pack had broken out such that the ocean currents had kept much of it hugging the coast of Victoria Land. This meant that certain bays would be plugged but others would open. It appears that McMurdo Sound will be open this year and allow us access to the sites of the historic huts at Cape Royds (Shackleton) and Cape Evans (Scott). That is very welcome news. Also there is a large polynya (area of open coastal water) at Terra Nova Bay which might enable us to land at Inexpressible Island and perhaps visit the Italian Base. Inexpressible Island is where Scott’s Northern Party survived an unplanned and extremely difficult six month period over winter living on minimal rations in a snow cave. Rodney introduced us to the ‘immersion body flotation suit’, a recent development in ocean vessel safety regulations. There is one of these for every person on the ship in case of dire emergency. Hopefully that will be as close as we will need to come to actually wearing one. The suit resembles an astronaut’s suit. 

We’re now approaching the Antarctic convergence where the cooler Antarctic waters meet the warmer northern waters. This means that temperatures will continue to drop and warmer clothing will be needed. Everyone today was issued with a blue cold weather parka to ensure our comfort as we experience the amazing geography at the bottom of the world. Later in the afternoon Olga gave us an excellent lecture on Orca, her area of special expertise. Our knowledge of these magnificent creatures has now increased significantly. Regarding wildlife we have now left most of the Sub-Antarctic seabirds behind us, including the albatrosses but still see plenty of Antarctic Prions. Soon we will see Antarctic Petrels and the beautiful Snow Petrels. Today we sighted a pair of Hour-glass Dolphins and also what may have been a Humpback Whale. 

This afternoon our Captain re-directed the ship to take us on a more easterly course to reduce the effect of the swell on the ‘rock n rollin’ of the ship. This has improved shipboard conditions significantly and a good night’s sleep will be our reward. Our first day sailing through the ‘dead zone’ has been a good one and we now are close to crossing the Antarctic circle at latitude 66⁰ 34’ S.

Day 10: Friday 19th January
At Sea 

The change of bearing yesterday had a salubrious effect and a smooth sailing night allowed everyone to sleep well. The weather pattern is also positive and with luck may see us through the entire ‘screaming sixties’. We’ve noticed a slight mistiness on the horizon as moisture condenses from the clash of temperatures over the Antarctic convergence. Also, our sea temperature has dropped from 8⁰ to 5⁰ today and should soon reach 2⁰C. In the early afternoon we crossed 60⁰S. latitude and are now in the official Antarctic region as defined by the Antarctic Treaty. The birdlife has definitely diminished although we are still seeing quite a wide variety of species albeit in low numbers. A Wandering Albatross (Salvin) was sighted today along with a few Sooty Shearwaters and various Antarctic Prions. No mammals were seen (other than Homo sapiens). Stephen gave his first lecture on Antarctic history ‘The Unveiling of Antarctica’ which was followed by the showing of Part I of the film ‘The Last Place on Earth’. The film is based on the book by polar historian Roland Huntford, and is an account of the race between Britain’s Robert Falcon Scott and Norwegian, Roald Amundsen to the South Pole. The afternoon was easy going with retail therapy provided by the opening of the Heritage Expeditions souvenir shop and a very informative lecture by Olga on ‘Seals of the Antarctic’. One message was to be wary of Leopard Seals – they are a serious predator of the Southern Ocean. Chances are we will sight several new species except perhaps for the Ross Seal which is very rare. New species for us would include the Weddell, Crabeater and Leopard Seals.

We have two more days of sailing before arriving at Cape Adare. The next highlight will be crossing the Antarctic Circle at 66⁰ 34’ S. At that latitude the sun begins its 24 hour presence on the longest day of the year (December 21). Everyone has also guessed the date and time of the sighting of the first iceberg. That should occur within the next 24-48 hours and will be worth a choice bottle of wine to the lucky iceberg expert. The passengers have enjoyed this lull in outdoor activity and taken advantage to re-build their energies for the exciting days in Antarctica that lie ahead. We expect to see an updated ice chart tomorrow that will give us an idea of how our journey will unfold. 

The ship continues to sail smoothly and now it’s time to enjoy a mildly rocking slumber. 

Day 11: Saturday 20th January 
At Sea

There was a sense of excitement in the air this morning as perhaps today we would see our first iceberg. We had traversed the Antarctic convergence and the temperature of both the ocean and the air had dropped. We watched episode 2 of ‘The Last Place on Earth’ and the plot was thickening with further revelations about Scott’s doubts about the use of skis and Amundsen’s paranoia about secrecy. We were left hanging as the Fram was surprisingly pointed ‘South’. After a brief interlude our learning continued as Sarah shared with us her extensive knowledge of sea birds, and in this case penguins. There are 18 separate species which fall into three categories: Great (Emperor and King), Brush-tailed, and Crested with the Yellow-eyed Penguin occupying its own reserved category. The Yellow-eyed is also the rarest penguin species. Sarah’s lecture was interrupted when Rodney announced over the intercom that the first iceberg had been sighted. Corey was the winner as staff was not eligible for the prize. Those at Corey’s table for dinner will certainly appreciate her bottle of fine wine.

We enjoyed our lunch and for some of us, a light nap followed before beginning the afternoon program. First up was the very moving film ‘Blackfish’ that told the story of the captive Orcas trained for entertainment shows at theme parks such as Sea World. It is a disturbing form of animal cruelty that hopefully will cease once people understand the effects it has on these highly intelligent and sensitive mammals. It is time that humankind acknowledged that it must exist alongside the natural environment and not on top of it.

In closing out the day Rodney gave a presentation explaining the Antarctic Treaty and how it relates to the tourism industry. It raised much interest and several questions regarding the different regulatory bodies involved. We are fortunate the original treaty, in its simplicity, has stood the test of time. We can only hope it continues to protect the Antarctic for future generations to enjoy.

Tonight the bridge was a busy scene as Light-mantled Sooty Albatross put on a flying display that kept cameras clicking on ‘burst mode’. Then more icebergs began to appear and further whet our anticipation for the Antarctic. We won’t be crossing the Antarctic Circle until after 1:00 a.m. tomorrow morning so celebrations are set to occur after breakfast. Since it is a Sunday, breakfast has been moved back half an hour to 8:30 a.m. The extra sleep will ensure we all are in good spirits for the ceremonial proceedings! Good night all.

Day 12: Sunday 21st January 
At Sea 

The 30 minute extension to our sleep was much appreciated as we would soon enter the zone of 24 hour daylight which is a feature of summer life below the Antarctic Circle. The morning dawn was bright and clear including numerous bergs, both large and small floating in the distance in all directions from the ship. The seas were remarkably calm so much so that our ceremony for the crossing of the Circle was held in the open air on the bow of the ship rather than in the bar area on level 3. We could not have asked for better conditions for marking this important occasion. Sailors the world over go through a rite of passage to mark the first time they cross the Antarctic Circle aboard ship. A special tasty blend of mulled wine prepared by Ed and Lance was served out to everyone in preparation for the toast. Our EL, Rodney, then read Heritage Expeditions Oath of the Antarctic Circle which we all repeated and promised to uphold. (See text below). We then raised our cups and sipped the delicious nectar in our salute to protect the environment. Finally, Heidi, our Hotel Manager imprinted our foreheads with the Sign of the Penguin. Thus branded we proudly carried the symbol for the rest of the day.

Antarctic Circle Crossing 

By anyone’s standards this event is an auspicious occasion – very few people have crossed the Antarctic Circle by ship. 

So on this occasion we want to both celebrate the occasion and acknowledge its importance. 

Today each of us joins a unique group of explorers that have gone before us not only showing us the way but giving us the courage to follow and to make our own destiny. We follow explorers such as Sir James Clark Ross, Robert Falcon Scott, Sir Ernest Shackleton, Roald Amundsen, Sir Douglas Mawson, Richard Byrd, Sir Edmund Hilary and others that pioneered new routes south of the circle. Today we acknowledge them and their efforts. 

Crossing the Circle also carries with it a responsibility – a responsibility that those explorers who went before us took seriously which is part of the reason that we are here today. They advocated for the protection of these lands and the wildlife that inhabited them, ensuring that future generations would have them to enjoy. 

So today as we cross the circle I would like each of you to take this vow and receive the Mark of the Penguin – as evidence that you have crossed the Antarctic Circle and have taken the pledge which I am going to ask you to say after me. 

Having endured the privations of the Roaring Forties, the rigors of the Furious Fifties and the ice strewn waters of the Screaming Sixties to cross the Antarctic Circle, pay homage to those early explorers who have not only shown the way but have demonstrated what it means to advocate for the continued protection of Antarctica and its wildlife. I (put your own name) hereby pledge that in accepting the Mark of the Penguin will, until I take my last expedition, advocate to everybody, even those who will not listen, the importance of the Antarctic and its wildlife. 

Would you please step forward to receive the Mark of the Penguin. 

Later in the morning our historian Stephen gave his second lecture focusing on the heroic age of Antarctic exploration from 1895-1922. He emphasised Carsten Borchgrevink and his Southern Cross expedition since we were soon to arrive at Cape Adare where Borchgrevink’s party spent the first winter on the Antarctic continent. 

After spending an hour on the bridge admiring icebergs and wildlife we enjoyed a warming lunch of Asian Broth and tossed salad. The afternoon activity began with Part III of ‘The Last Place on Earth’. It again provided further grist for the mill of debate over the merits of Scott vs Amundsen.   

The seas remained smooth as a sheet of paper (almost) and many passengers spent the next two hours on one of the four deck levels or on the bridge peering into the ocean looking for new Antarctic wildlife species. Their perseverance was amply rewarded with sightings of Adelie Penguins, a Humpback Whale, Minke Whale, Snow Petrel, and an Antarctic Prion. The highlight of the afternoon was sighting several Weddell Seals resting on ice floes as the Spirit of Enderby made her way through the broken ice pack that had floated out from the Ross Sea.

Our busy day concluded with a lecture by Louise, our DOC (Department of Conservation) rep on the International Whaling Commission (IWC) and its workings and challenges. Without doubt there remain many significant hurdles to overcome before we can say that the world’s whale species are no longer endangered after more than a century of excessive exploitation. 

At dinner we celebrated the birthday of one of our Japanese passengers, Takayo. There isn’t a more memorable venue in which to spend your special day.

The Southern Ocean has granted us an exciting and beautiful day and unusually placid seas as well. May our good fortune continue as we enter the Ross Sea tomorrow! We plan to awaken at an early hour – 5:30 a.m within sight of Cape Adare. Very exciting indeed. 


Photo credit: S. Gutowsky

Photo credit: L. Gwynn

Day 13: Monday 22nd January 
Cape Adare 
70⁰ 20’ S. 170⁰ E.

We awoke early in hopes of seeing Antarctica for the first time. We were not disappointed even though a slight cloudbank had placed itself between us and the continent. The massive snow covered peaks of the Trans-Antarctic Mountains loomed majestically above the clouds and removed all doubt that we would soon arrive at Cape Adare and the Ross Sea. Since we had to alter course during the night due to ice conditions we had lost a few hours and our ETA for Cape Adare is now noon. We spent the time on deck or on the bridge watching as we approached the continent. Snow Petrels were doing their graceful flight ballet around the ship and keen photographers were making the most of their display. Many of our guests chose to stand on the bow as the Spirit of Enderby skilfully threaded its way through the scattered ice pack. The seas again remained amazingly calm so as we reached a larger area of open water the Zodiacs were launched for a cruise amongst the ice floes many of which harboured resting wildlife. We slowly made our way from one floe to another, some with Adelie Penguins performing their often hilarious antics, others with quietly resting Crabeater Seals. On one floe a group of almost 50 Southern Giant Petrels had gathered and were having what seemed like a conference. This is a most unusual occurrence and our cameras were very busy capturing the unique event. We also sighted the dorsal fins of surfacing Minke Whales who were making their presence known but keeping their distance. The atmosphere was soothing with the lazy swell of the ocean silently raising and lowering the Zodiacs and floes. One ice floe resembled a broken house with the lights still on as blue light of every hue seemed to radiate from its fractured windows. The scenery in every direction was so spectacular and unique that we really didn’t have words to describe it and so we just admired it and counted ourselves very lucky to have this experience. We then returned to the ship with appetites sharpened and sat down to a tasty pizza lunch.

Our journey then continued southward as we left Cape Adare bound for the ‘Barrier’ and Ross Island. Our EL decided to take advantage of the fine weather and gentle seas as well as the favourable ice conditions to advance our visit to the historic huts in McMurdo Sound. The plan is to then exit the Ross Sea by sailing north keeping as close as possible to the Victoria Land Coast. There are several more potential stops along the way such as Franklin Island if coastal ice conditions continue to improve. We expect to arrive at the ‘Barrier’ by Thursday evening. 

This afternoon we viewed Part IV of ‘The Last Place on Earth’. The plot has moved forward with Oates reprimanding Scott over the ponies and Johansen reprimanding Amundsen over his premature start for the Pole. Both parties have now begun their treks for the Pole so we’ll soon see which leader has done the better job.

Our historian Dr. Stephen Hicks gave his third lecture on Scott’s Discovery expedition which stirred discussion on the learnings, if any, that Scott applied to his subsequent Terra Nova expedition. A ‘History Club’ meeting was suggested to discuss questions and controversies that arise as we examine other Heroic Age expeditions. There was a noticeable amount of exuberance at Happy Hour today no doubt brought on by the amazing sights we had experienced as we Zodiac cruised under the watchful slopes of historic Cape Adare. Tomorrow, we’ll be at sea as we continue towards Ross Island where further highlights await. Tonight we’ll sleep the sleep of exhausted explorers.


Photo credit: L. Gwynn

Day 14: Wednesday 23rd January 
At Sea

The steady hum of the ship’s two powerful diesel engines accompanied us during the night as we the travelled south through the Ross Sea towards the ‘Barrier’. Unlike the early explorers we have some inkling of what awaits us. The moderate seas are rocking us just a little bit more today which for some passengers is just fine since it meets their expectations for sailing in these high latitudes. After a hearty breakfast we viewed Episode V of ‘The Last Place on Earth’. Both Amundsen and Scott have ascended their respective glaciers, Amundsen the Axel Heiberg, and Scott, the Beardmore, and have reached the polar plateau. Amundsen has just outdistanced Shackleton and passed his ‘furthest south’ within 97 miles of the Pole. We eagerly look forward to the concluding episodes.

Our morning was interrupted in a most remarkable manner when an Antarctic Petrel was seen from the bridge huddled in a corner on the forward deck of the ship. Ornithologist Dr. Sarah immediately took the situation in hand and rushed down to collect the stranded bird which could not achieve flight from that position. She carefully carried it to the bar where we had an opportunity to examine it and give it a health check before releasing it back to its home on the open ocean. It was such a surprising and unique experience! 

Our morning then concluded with Stephen’s history lecture on Shackleton’s ‘Nimrod’ Expedition. This expedition was very successful and included the new ‘furthest south’ by Shackleton, Frank Wild, Dr. Marshall, and Adams, the first ascent of Mt Erebus, and the discovery of the South Magnetic Pole by Douglas Mawson, T Edgeworth David and Alistair Mackay. Shackleton was greeted as a hero on his return to England and rewarded by King Edward the VII with a knighthood. Our afternoon programme began with the film ‘The Last Ocean’, an account of the effort to establish an extensive marine reserve in the Ross Sea. We are grateful to Kate for bringing this documentary about the Ross Sea region to our attention. Those who wish may acquire the film or DVD from Amazon, ITunes or the official website. There is also a large format book that can be purchased. 

In a very informative final lecture of the day Rodney explained the myriad different types of ice that might be encountered in the Ross Sea. After separating ice into the two major categories of ‘sea’ (salty) and ‘land’ (fresh) he introduced us to the full range from ‘frazil’ to ‘grease’ to ‘pancake’ and from ‘brash’ to ‘bergy bits’ to ‘fast’. But wait- there’s more: New, multi-year, old, shelf, glacial, cap, push etc. We are now amateur glaciologists and will be looking very differently at those chunks of frozen water.

Rodney then announced that the ship was making good time despite sailing against a southerly breeze and that we expect to arrive at the Barrier by 6:00 a.m. tomorrow morning. This is a major highlight of our journey and ensures that a good number of us will awaken early with cameras and binoculars at the ready. We then headed off to the bar where we tested our memories on how many types of ice we could recall.

Day 15: Wednesday 24th January 
The ‘Barrier’ – Ross Island 
77⁰ 30’ S. 168⁰ E. 

Many of us awakened early to see the Ross Ice Shelf, the ‘Barrier’ as it was called by Scott and the explorers of the heroic age. By 7:00 a.m we could see it dimly in the distance as Mother Nature had given us a thin bank of fog through which to view one of wonders of the natural world. The ramparts of the great volcano Mt Erebus were just visible on its lower slopes. The low cloud layer persisted so we cruised towards the east for a short distance along the ice shelf before turning around to head for Cape Bird and the entrance to McMurdo Sound. Our goal is to reach Cape Royds and Shackleton’s hut that he erected for his ‘Nimrod’ expedition in 1907. As we entered McMurdo Sound we encountered pack ice in 5+/10 density which means slowing down to gently push and crack our way forward. The bumping into the floes, both large and small, adds some drama to our journey making us recall the problems experienced by the early explorers. Ice remains the major issue for sea-going transport in the Antarctic and we are experiencing that first-hand. We had a close encounter with a pod of Orca at noon with several passing right beneath the ship as they propelled themselves powerfully with the speed of a torpedo. They are such amazing creatures. Suddenly people rushed across the ship to the starboard side as a handsome Weddell Seal was spotted having a zizz on a lazily northward traveling ice floe. He/she posed and camera shutters began snapping. Two solitary Emperor Penguins were also seen in the distance as we proceeded to our resting place for the night at the southern edge of Cape Bird. We had now reached 77⁰ S. Since the seas were calm and the wind non-existent the Captain decided we would spend the night near the shore of Cape Bird. It will be ‘early to bed and early to rise’ as we want to visit the historic huts tomorrow if possible starting with Scott’s hut at Cape Evans. We’ll see what the weather brings in the morning. Passenger Riekie felt optimistic this evening about our chances since passengers and staff helped her celebrate her birthday with a mostly on-key group rendition of ‘Happy Birthday’. Breakfast tomorrow is at 7:00 a.m.


Photo credit: S. Gutowksy

Day 16: Thursday 25th January
McMurdo Sound – Cape Bird 
77⁰ 29’ S. 167⁰ 10’ E. 

This morning we arose early anticipating a view of Cape Evans from the ship. However before we could even get to Cape Royds the ‘A’ factor of – ‘A’ for Antarctic - loomed large in the form of strong southerly katabatic winds coming off the slopes of Mt Erebus gusting as high as 40 knots. The wind put paid to any hopes of a safe landing today, and with the improved forecast for tomorrow we returned to our calm position of the previous night. Those who rose earliest in the morning did get some beautiful views of the lower slopes of Mt Erebus with the main crater summit partially hidden by wispy cloud in places coloured pink like cotton candy. Mt Erebus often creates its own micro-climate. Several hardy travellers ventured out onto the decks to experience the full force of the katabatic air flow – an experience they will certainly never forget.

After breakfast ‘The Last Place on Earth’ moved forward with the showing of Part VI. Amundsen reached the Pole in what appeared to be an easy conquest. Scott and his party were on the other hand bitterly disappointed on their arrival at the Pole to discover Amundsen’s tent containing a letter for Scott containing a message to deliver to the Norwegian King Haakon in the event he failed to return. With only one episode remaining things do not bode well for the British party.

Later in the morning Lisle, our birder ‘par excellence’ gave his presentation on ‘Birds, Birders and Birding’ an inspirational account of Lisle’s own birding career describing many amusing aspects of bird lore, not the least of which is its arcane terminology. Lisle also gave us helpful advice on birding equipment especially binoculars, cameras and clothing. A tasty lunch of Cornish pastry followed honouring Lisle’s home county roots in England.

Since Cape Bird had calm conditions a Zodiac cruise was scheduled for the afternoon. At 2:00 p.m. we launched the five Zodiacs and began a fascinating tour of the ice floes all the while moving towards the immense Adelie Penguin colony that resides on the bare coastal patch just south of the ice cap glacial edge. Most of the floes contained varying numbers of Adelies and we took advantage of their close proximity to satisfy even the most passionate of our birders. It was the ideal environment for viewing these comical little creatures. There were penguins porpoising all round us, leaping up onto the floes and enthusiastically diving into the sea in equal numbers. It was penguin heaven. We were able to get a good look at the Cape Bird Adelie Penguin colony and estimated the population to be as many as 30,000. Our cruise included the extraordinary experience of landing on an ice floe amidst the curious Adelies. Standing and walking on an ice floe in McMurdo Sound is simply amazing. Back at the ship to sate our ravenous appetites Ed and Lance, Olga and Kate presented us with a delicious dinner of John Dory or Rack of New Zealand lamb. For dessert we shared a piece of Corey’s birthday cake specially baked in the kitchen. The staff helped Corey celebrate her special day with a rousing tuneless rendition of ‘Happy Birthday’. Dinner was followed by a ‘Movie Night’ complete with drinks and popcorn featuring the movie ‘The Big Year’ a heart-warming story that will certainly help boost the birder numbers among our passengers. Our patience today in waiting out the poor weather at the historic huts was amply rewarded in what became yet another extraordinary day in our journey through the Antarctic. It’s hard to believe that we have now crossed the half-way point of this adventure. We have seen and done so much. What more can lie ahead?


Photo credit: S. Gutowksy

Day 17: Friday 26th January 
Cape Evans 
77⁰ 38’ S. 166⁰ 25’ E.

We spent the night at the entrance to McMurdo Sound where the seas were a little bit choppy however we were up early and curious to see what the new day would bring. The ship’s engines were humming by 4:30 a.m. taking us back past Cape Royds and on down another ten miles to Cape Evans where the weather forecast was more favourable. We had a couple of hours and Stephen gave us his fascinating and timely lecture on Scott’s Terra Nova expedition. He filled in the gaps of the movie telling us about the ‘Worst Journey in the World’ a winter slog in darkness to Cape Crozier in search of Emperor Penguin eggs. Also we learned about the incredible survival of the Northern Party who lived through a terrible six months of privation holed up in a snow cave on Inexpressible Island. We now have more good reading to delve into on our return! 

After the lecture Rodney announced that we would soon arrive at Cape Evans and that conditions were good for a landing – also that we would be spending the day, without any fixed time limit, visiting the hut and its magnificent surroundings. At 11:00 a.m. the Zodiacs began transporting passengers and staff to the shore and the hut was opened for our inspection. On passing through the doorway we realised immediately that we had entered a very special place. Built in 1911 it remains as Scott’s men might have left it when they returned to civilisation missing their leader and four companions. The restoration conservators have done an outstanding job in protecting the huts natural atmosphere down to the finest details including the smell of the hay in the stables which were managed by Captain Oates of the Royal Dragoons. We spent the day absorbed in polar exploration history and marvelled at the spectacular setting as we wandered freely over the nearby hills. The hill containing the memorial cross to the three men who perished during Shackleton’s Aurora expedition offered distant views of Arrival Heights and Castle Rock at Hut Point. Mt Erebus stood tall in magnificent watch over the landscape with steam gently wafting from the summit crater. Tomorrow, we plan to sail further south towards Hut Point although we are not sure how far the ice will allow us to travel.

However, before that occurred a second major highlight is in store with a visit scheduled to Shackleton’s historic hut at Cape Royds. We will sail northwards for about an hour to reach the ‘Nimrod’ hut and weather conditions are expected to be very good. If this evening’s clear view of the peaks of Mt Erebus and of the Royal Society Range across the Sound are any indication, then it will be another spectacular day in Antarctica. Our luck has turned and we are revelling in the weather, the history and the joy of adventure and discovery. We rise very early tomorrow 6:15 a.m. so it’s early to bed to sleep the sleep of contented explorers.


Photo credit: S. Gutowsky

Day 18: Saturday 27th January 
Cape Royds 
77⁰ 33’ S. 166⁰ 10’ E.

We were awakened to the sound of the anchor being raised as the ship prepared to sail from the calm harbour at Cape Evans the fifteen miles north to Cape Royds. Today we would visit Shackleton’s hut built in 1907 to house his team for the ‘Nimrod’ expedition. It was this expedition where he reached 88⁰ 23’ S. and was bestowed a knighthood by King Edward VII. Breakfast was set 6:30 a.m. since we wanted to get off to a quick start today. With Captain Dimitri’s guidance the ship nosed her way through some pack ice into Back Door Bay. Rodney, Sarah and Olga checked out the shore ice for stability and returned with good news. The ice was solid and we should prepare to set out after a landing briefing on the Cape Royds SPA (Special Protected Area). During the briefing Rodney advised that launch was dependent on a final check with the Captain on ice conditions. Whoa! During the twenty minute briefing the ice played a trick on us and moved in to block our approach. Safety being paramount our EL opted for Plan B and we set a southerly course towards Hut Point. Eventually we encountered the pack ice and found our way into the channel recently cut by the American ice-breaker Polar Star which we could see in the distance. We also could see Arrival Heights and Observation Hill which mark both the US McMurdo Antarctic station (‘Mac Town’ as it is also known), and New Zealand’s Scott Base just 2km away at Pram Point.

Wildlife was abundant with Adelie Penguins and numerous Orcas, several Minke Whales, as well as a Leopard Seal and Emperor Penguin – an exceptional couple of hours certainly. Eventually we had to turn back since the channel was getting narrower and we were catching up to the ice breaker. But before heading out the Professor Krohmov stopped against the ice and we all spent some time cavorting on the ‘fast’ ice and throwing a Frisbee brought along by Bruce and Wendy for just such an occasion. What a unique experience it was to be walking out on a vast flat expanse of firm white snow. We then cruised northward along the fast ice and made a turn eastward short of Butter Point and made another attempt to land at Cape Royds. This time the ‘A’ Factor was on our side and conditions had improved dramatically. It was calm, ice free, and warm with Mt Erebus looking down on us in all its glory while a pair of Minke Whales swam gently across the bay – an idyllic scene. We implemented the morning’s Zodiac plan and began to shuttle 16 people at a time onto the fast ice at Back Door Bay. Two Adelies welcomed us to their corner of Antarctica as we walked across the ice, over an ice-free black lava flow, and soon reached Shackleton’s hut tucked into the valley below.

The history of the hut struck people in different ways but everyone was moved by the experience of being in the very building that Shackleton and his team of explorers such as Frank Wild, Frank Hurley and Douglas Mawson once called home. Seeing Shackleton’s signature on the bed head made it all too real. It was an experience that will stay with us forever. The day was beautiful and many of us took advantage to walk out to view the nearby Adelie Penguin rookery. It is the southernmost Adelie colony in the world and a very large one that spreads out across the rocky promontory of volcanic lava. The Adelies were in fine form and their calls could be heard across the headland. The views across the Sound to the Royal Society Range were incredible. The time at Cape Royds passed swiftly and the last shuttle left at 6:30 p.m. so we swept out the hut, replaced the shutters and locked the door. We left Cape Royds with fond memories that will sit alongside those of yesterday from Cape Evans. 

As if that wasn’t enough Rodney took advantage of the ideal conditions and invited us to take the infamous ‘Polar Plunge’. It was a challenge that many couldn’t resist. The splashes followed by shrieks of agony as the sub-zero temperature of the sea hit home capped off our successful induction as Antarctic explorers. The hot shower afterward never felt more welcome. What an amazing two days it has been! 

Our sojourn in McMurdo Sound has come to a marvelous end and we are now making our way to Franklin Island and its enormous Adelie Penguin colony. It’s time to say Goodnight! And we’ll see what the morning brings.


Photo credit:  S. Gutowsky

Photo credit: S. Gutowsky

Day 19: Sunday 28th January 
Franklin Island 
75⁰ 15’ S. 167⁰ 40’ E.

After a well-earned sleep we awoke to a misty morning and ice-free seas. We had emerged from the pack-ice and were sailing at full speed towards Franklin Island, so named by James Clark Ross to honour his friend, John Franklin, then Governor of Tasmania. The prospects remained good for a landing and spending several hours amidst its huge Adelie Penguin colony. 

Rodney gave a briefing on the landing procedure which would occur subject to a closer inspection of conditions on shore. However, although the beach was OK and the surf was modest the seas nearer the ship were turbulent due to conflicting tide and wind. This meant loading the Zodiacs would entail some risk. It was decided to delay our approach to the island for a while to see if conditions improved. We all enjoyed the interesting documentary Solid Water – Liquid Rock, a stunning explanation of the relationship between the ocean and the volcano – McMurdo Sound and Mt Erebus. We now better understand what is going on below the waves and within the active volcano and its crater. The vain attempts to descend into the violent depths of the crater itself defy belief. Soon after came the announcement that conditions had improved with the tidal change and we would indeed by landing on Franklin Island. We dressed hurriedly – time was of the essence. 

Once on the shore we stared in silence at the sight of tens of thousands of Adelie Penguins carrying on all manner of activity in our midst. This certainly was nature at its purest, hardest and most intoxicating (there was a pungent aroma of life in the air). We walked freely and carefully through the colony stopping every few steps to observe penguin family life. There were many moulting chicks and food chases, that amusing yet so vital of penguin behaviours, were common. Franklin Island brought home to us what an unspoilt environment can produce. Existence here is simple, raw, yet also balanced and even in an odd way, caring. After two or three hours we returned to the ship a little chilled but with much to think about. An extended lunch buffet was enjoyed by all and we retired to savour our time in one of the world’s largest Adelie Penguin colonies. Being a Sunday our evening meal was a delicious roast of either New Zealand lamb or beef served with roast vege. Yum! Rodney then announced the unexpected decision to return to the ’Barrier’ and that we would have another chance to view the dramatic cliff edge of the Ross Ice Shelf. With arrival time due at 5:30 a.m. most of us headed for an early night looking forward to what tomorrow might bring. 

Day 20: Monday 29th January
The Ross Ice Shelf aka the ‘Barrier’ 
77⁰ 30 S. 168⁰ 15’ E.

Many of us awoke very early before the 5:30 a.m. wake-up announcement – The ‘Barrier’, the intimidating white stop-sign that halted the southward progress of the early explorers, was in sight. Our return to the Ross Ice Shelf was prompted by a storm further north at Cape Adare as well as the possibility that we might enjoy a fog-free look at its fearsome crisp 150 ft. high edge. We were not disappointed. It was an awesome scene as the sharply sheared edge stretched endlessly both east and to Mt Terror in the west. It was biting cold on deck but that didn’t discourage those with cameras as their fingers slowly began to freeze with the excitement. Then just when it couldn’t get any better a huge pod of Minke Whales were seen making their way along the Barrier’s edge. Many wonderful photographs were again taken. We won’t ever forget what we were so privileged to experience this morning.

At 8:30 a.m. as we passed Cape Crozier and Mt Terror the Spirit of Enderby turned to starboard and headed north sailing towards Cape Adare. We have 300 miles to travel before we exit the Ross Sea so our day will be spent with our photos, library perusals and lectures and, of course, delicious meals and spirited conversation. Our days in the Ross Sea have been simply incredible, amazing, awesome… 

It was also time to view the final episode of Scott’s Terra Nova expedition. Despite heroic contributions by many on his team including Titus Oates supreme sacrifice, his polar party perished only 11 miles from One Ton Depot where they might have found life-saving provisions. Alas, it wasn’t meant to be and as Amundsen poignantly remarked on learning of Scott’s death “In death, he wins”. The expedition was a Greek tragedy of the highest order. What might Shakespeare have done with this story?

In the afternoon Olga gave a very informative lecture on Cetaceans. These include species in the whale and dolphin families. We learned that there are many sub-types of whales such as Beaked and Baleen and further types within sub-types such as Minke, Humpback, Right, Sperm and many more. It was fascinating to learn that there are Sperm Whales that breed in equatorial waters but at different times of the year depending on whether the males come from the northern or southern oceans. Since winter occurs at opposite sides of the calendar the males of one hemisphere never meet the males of the other thus avoiding needless competition. Amazing!

The formal program was completed by Stephen’s last lecture about the heroic age of Antarctic exploration – Shackleton’s Endurance expedition. This also included a description of the expedition’s Ross Sea Party support expedition which was almost equally harrowing. These ‘forgotten men’ stayed in Shackleton’s old hut at Cape Royds and established depots out to the base of the Beardmore Glacier. These were intended for use by Shackleton for the final leg of his journey as he crossed the continent from Vahsel Bay on the Weddell Sea. Unfortunately Shackleton never arrived having been trapped in the notorious Weddell Sea ice pack. Three of the party perished which was a serious blow for the expedition. The Ross Sea party were eventually rescued by Shackleton with the arrival of the Aurora at Ross Island captained by John King Davis in February 1917.

This long and wonderful day in the Antarctic was topped off by a magnificent dinner of coq au vin with crème brulee for dessert. Tomorrow is a day at sea as we make our way north to Cape Adare. We hope the storm will have abated by the time of our arrival.

Day 21: Tuesday 30th January 
At Sea

Since we’re at sea it’s a good time to go shopping. Heidi opened the Heritage gift shop at 10:00 a.m. and business was brisk as it would be the last opportunity this voyage to pick up that special gift. The scarves and beanies were especially popular as well as Rodney’s book on the Sub-Antarctic islands entitled ‘Galapagos of the Antarctic’. 

Olga then showed the film of a captivating lecture by Phillip Clapham on whaling entitled ‘Managing Leviathan in a Post-Whaling World’. Clapham gives an account of the wanton destruction of the world’s whale population over the past century as millions of whales of all species were hunted to the brink of extinction. We hope mankind i.e. the IWC will finally realize that such slaughter can only end badly not only for the whales but for the human race as well. 

The documentary ‘Frozen Heart’, a life of Roald Amundsen, was shown as the afternoon’s opening activity. It reveals the tragic life of the great Norwegian explorer following his triumph at the South Pole. He could never settle down and live a more ‘normal’ life but kept looking for the world’s adulation, often at the expense of his personal life. His death in a plane crash while searching for the Italian dirigible pilot Umberto Nobile brought an ironic end to this giant of the heroic age. History was at the forefront today and Stephen then moderated the inaugural meeting of the ‘History Club’. Several pithy questions concerning Amundsen and Scott’s race to the Pole were on the agenda and spirited discussion ensued. Both sides of each question were analysed for which very few ‘right answers’ exist. However, our understandings of the facts around each question were certainly clarified. What remained as a variable are our interpretations of those facts and their impact on the expedition outcomes. Many questions remain for future meetings.

Happy Hour was kicked off by an Antarctic Wildlife Games program featuring identification of twenty-five of the species we have seen and placed correctly in a fixed pattern. This was an exciting test of our memories and knowledge of Antarctic birds and mammals. Roy was especially proficient and had a very good night indeed.

We’re now approaching Cape Adare. The Captain reduced power to only 1 engine in order to slow us down a bit. This would allow the storm at Cape Adare time to move on. However, the storm has also pushed ice up against our landing area and cut off access from around the Cape. This has considerably reduced our chances of visiting Borchgrevink’s hut, the first building placed on the Antarctic continent. We’ll have to see what the morning brings. We expect to arrive at Cape Adare at about 1:30 a.m. The seas are pretty rough at the moment so the best place for the next few hours will be in our bunks. See you in the morning. 

Day 22: Wednesday 31st January
At Sea

The sun was shining and seas were calm when we awoke this morning. We are sailing at full speed north on a course for the Balleny Islands since access to Cape Adare was blocked by 5km of the shifting pack ice. The first island of the group, Sturge Island, is 190 miles north-west of our current position. They are an extension of the Trans-Antarctic Mountains. Sabrina Island, the smallest of the group is an SPA and home to the only colony of Chinstrap Penguins on this side of the continent. There is also a colony of Adelie Penguins on the island. We expect to arrive at Sturge Island at 1:30 a.m. so it could be an early wake-up for some. Since we’ll be at sea today’s program features films and lectures. However, the Ballenys are known as a region rich in wildlife so we’ll be keeping a lookout for birds and ocean going mammals. 

Our first movie, presented by Lisle, was ‘Ice Bird’, a documentary on Adelie Penguins that gave an excellent description of their life cycle. Unlike Emperor Penguins, Adelie Penguins breed in the austral summer. This explains why their colony at Franklin Island was so busy. Skuas and Leopard Seals are their natural predators.

This was followed by the film ‘90⁰ South’ produced by Herbert Ponting, a first-hand account of Robert Falcon Scott’s Terra Nova expedition. Ponting was official photographer on the expedition and had intimate knowledge of its conduct and wintered over with Scott’s team. The film is almost one-hundred years old but still quite entertaining and is an important part of the expedition’s record. It does however present a ‘heroic’ version, as compared to the Roland Huntford based film ‘The Last Place on Earth' .
 
Lunch today was suddenly interrupted by the appearance of a large number of whales not too far from the ship. We changed course temporarily to get a closer look and were rewarded with whales spouting and surfacing in every direction. These were mostly Fin Whales, perhaps a dozen of them, but we were thrilled to observe a mature and rare Blue Whale, the largest creature on the planet, among them. It was an extraordinary highlight for us on what we thought would be a quiet ‘day at sea’. It proved that in the Antarctic one has to be ready for wonderful surprises. We certainly will be spending time on deck or on the bridge over the next couple of days as we cruise through this very remote island group. 

After things had calmed down and we had enjoyed a delicious lasagne lunch, Stephen presented a lecture on expeditions of the post-heroic age period starting in 1928 with the Australian explorer and adventurer Hubert Wilkins, American Richard E. Byrd and up to the Commonwealth Trans-Antarctic Expedition led by Dr. Vivian Fuchs and Sir Edmund Hillary in 1955-58. Stephen’s lecture was appropriately followed by a film documenting Byrd’s historic flight to the South Pole, with pilot Berndt Balchem, at the controls, in 1929. We are fortunate that both the Scott and Byrd expeditions were filmed in real time and we are still able to connect with this exploration history today.

Our menu for dinner included choice rib-eye steak so we should all sleep well – at least until the 1:30 a.m. wake-up call! 

Everyone is excited about visiting the little-known Balleny Islands.


Photo credit: S. Gutowsky

Day 23: Thursday 1st February
Balleny Islands: Sabrina, Monolith, Row (Chinstrap), Sturge, Buckle, Borradaile, Young 
65⁰ 30’ S. 166⁰ E.

We were awakened at 1:30 a.m. by Rodney announcing that we could see Sturge Island off the starboard bow, our first view of the Balleny Islands. The group was discovered by British sealer John Balleny in 1838 while on a sealing voyage sponsored by the Enderby Bros of London, and a syndicate of investors after whom the islands are named. The brig Sabrina also gave her name to one of the islands. The group consists of the seven islands named above. We cruised closer to get a good view of Sabrina Island and its unique colony of chinstrap penguins as well as the massive stalagmite-like Monolith. It was Antarctic geography at its most spectacular. Cameras were firing furiously once again as the dawn light began to glow. The seas didn’t allow for a Zodiac cruise but the early morning light ensured high quality photographs since the ship had made its close approach.

We then witnessed the most extraordinary event as an Eclipse of the Moon was occurring, backlit by glacier-capped Sturge Island with the dawn light reflected off its lower ice cliffs. It was such an unforgettable scene to experience as our introduction to the remote Balleny Islands! 

We spent the entire morning gazing at the islands as the ship made her way through the group using the straits that separate them from each other. We finally exited after passing Young Island and within a few hours we had re-crossed the Antarctic Circle, this time heading north. We had left Antarctica behind and were now making for Campbell Island, New Zealand’s southernmost territory. The Ballenys gave us a fond farewell with yet another incredible display from whales of several types including, Humpback, Fin and Blue species. Since the Southern Ocean was living up to its ‘screaming sixties’ reputation and given our wake-up during the night no films or lectures were scheduled and passengers caught up on rest, reading and photo editing. 

With over six hundred miles to travel we will now spend three more days at sea with an ETA at Campbell Island’s Perseverance Harbour of Sunday evening, February 4th. We’ll use the intervening time to re-new our energies after an absolutely amazing visit to the bottom of the world.


Photo credit: S. Gutowsky

Day 24: Friday 2nd February
At Sea

After a good night’s rest we were eager to see what today would bring. After a hearty breakfast our bird expert Sarah gave a presentation on her inaugural field trip experience to the Sub-Antarctic Iles Kerguelen. They are under French administration and are located below the Antarctic Circle in the Indian Ocean between South Africa and Australia. Sarah described how she participated in scientific studies of albatrosses and sea elephants. This involved banding various birds and attaching GPS trackers as well as other sensors to temporarily determine their behaviour. The studies even extended to a psychological assessment of the albatross and correlating their breeding success accordingly. Often she had to hold the birds sometimes weighing 10-20kg while placing the bands. Wrestling with a sea elephant was more of a two person job. The terrain was extreme and a fine sense of balance if not mountaineering skills was certainly a pre-requisite for this assignment which helped launch her current career in expedition guiding.

This was followed by the showing of Part I of the film ‘Longitude’ with Part II shown after lunch. It dramatizes John Harrison’s development of the solution for determining longitude, at that time the Holy Grail of navigation. After several attempts he was successful in building an accurate chronometer that would retain its accuracy despite ocean tempests. He struggled for recognition but was eventually acknowledged late in life and won the £20,000 prize offered by the admiralty.

Capping off the afternoon polar historian Stephen described the Commonwealth Trans-Antarctic Expedition (1955-58) led by British geologist, Dr. Vivian Fuchs and Sir Edmund Hillary of New Zealand. The expedition was the last of the traditional private expeditions and was the first to achieve a crossing of the Antarctic continent thus realising Shackleton's goal for his 1914 Endurance expedition.

Everyone is better appreciating the vastness of the Southern Ocean as we have two more days at sea before reaching our last stop, beautiful Campbell Island. We expect to arrive in Perseverance Harbour the evening of February 4. It’s time now for another good night of rest. The sunset tonight was absolutely beautiful. 

Day 25: Saturday 3rd February
At Sea – 367 miles from Campbell Island

Today’s advice is “one hand on the ship and one hand for you” as the furious fifties live up to their reputation. The library is getting a lot of use and photographs are being reviewed, discarded, edited and selected as the ‘best of the voyage’. Lectures are on hold until the seas calm themselves a little. 

Amazingly Ed and Lance, Olga and Kate continue to serve up delicious meals at the appointed hour. Our dieting objectives are not easily met. We’ll hit the hay early tonight and with only one more day ‘at sea’ our anticipation to get up close to the Southern Royal Albatross of Campbell Island is rising. Our ETA is now less than 24 hours and is estimated to be 6:00 p.m. tomorrow evening. Let’s all enjoy a good night’s rest.

Day 26: Sunday 4th February
At Sea

It’s been a roly-poly night as the Southern Ocean shows its character – we are in the ‘furious fifties after all. We now have 110 nautical miles to Perseverance Harbour and a calm berth. Our ETA remains about 6:00 p.m. as we are making good time despite the rough seas. It’s a day of restful activities in preparation to explore beautiful Campbell Island, New Zealand’s southernmost territory.

Our approach to Campbell Island was blessed with blue skies and the amazing outline of the various islands brought passengers to the ‘monkey deck’. We entered the calm waters of Perseverance Harbour and marvelled at the greenery and verdant hills that bordered the entrance. The quantity and variety of albatross and shearwaters flying in the harbour was amazing and our cameras were put to work once more.

As we turned to look behind us a spectacular rainbow stretched across the harbour, certainly a good omen for our visit. An albatross was even captured on camera just at the rainbow’s end. We dropped anchor on schedule at 6:00 p.m. and retired to the bar for a pre-dinner drink. Since leaving Franklin Island we had sailed over 1000 miles out of the Ross Sea, through the Balleny Islands and across the Southern Ocean to Campbell Island. We are looking forward to some vigorous exercise during the next two days. Sarah then hosted our traditional quiz night with 50 questions to challenge the pax on the lecture topics that had been presented so far. The winning team celebrated with bottles of wine at their table. We’ll all sleep well as the ship floats quietly in the harbour. Campbell Island has a lot to offer so we’ll have an early wake up tomorrow for 7:00 a.m. breakfast. Dobrij vyecher! 


Photo credit: L. Gwynn

Day 27: Monday 5th February
Campbell Island 
52⁰ 32’ S. 169⁰ 09’ E.

The night was calm and we all had a quiet slumber. The morning started out a bit wet but improved steadily as the squall moved on with the westerly breezes. At 7:15 a.m. Rodney gave an introductory lecture on Campbell Island history. This included the note that its discoverer, Captain Hasselborough, who also discovered Macquarie Island, was sadly drowned later here in Perseverance Harbour. A briefing followed where the options for the day’s activities were outlined. These include a ‘long walk’ of about 6 hours from Camp Cove out to Northwest Bay and back along Tucker Cove to the researcher huts at the wharf. The alternative was to join a Zodiac cruise along the shoreline looking out for rare Flightless Campbell Island Teal and sea lions. This includes a visit to the ‘loneliest tree in the world’, a Sitka spruce planted during the nineteenth century at Camp Cove. This site is noted in the book ‘The Lady of the Heather’, the story of a young woman exiled from Australia who lived in a nearby stone hut for many years until she mysteriously disappeared. In the afternoon the highlight is the easy walk up the boardwalk to Col Lyall Saddle with its spectacular view over Northwest Bay. Along the way are the dozens of nest sites of the beautiful Southern Royal Albatross which we can photograph at leisure from close range. 

The ‘long walk’ option found 19 hardy souls who not only survived but had an amazing time exploring rarely visited parts of the island. Apart from a great day out one of their many rewards was the sighting of the rare Antipodean or New Zealand Albatross on the ground. Their 7-8 hour tramp removed all signs of cabin fever that might have been stirring.

The patrons of the Zodiac cruise were equally rewarded despite the occasional short-lived snow squall. The elusive Flightless Campbell Island Teal made several appearances that satisfied keen birders as well as the many Campbell Island Shags that posed proudly on shore-based boulders. The ‘loneliest tree in the world’ featured in a landing at Camp Cove that allowed passengers to ford a fresh-water stream and admire the Sitka spruce that has survived 150 years in the harsh sub-Antarctic climate. 

Those who chose to travel the boardwalk up to Col Lyall Saddle might have had the best of it, also despite snow squalls and the occasional rise in altitude. However, albatross reside in high places to take full advantage of the wind. When your wings are 3 metres from tip to tip you can use a little help in taking off. Those who weathered the weather were treated to an intimate and truly surreal encounter with these magnificent creatures. It was as if they had invited us into their private living room. We spoke not a word and it was as if we were not there at all. They walked amongst us and went through all of their courting behaviours while we looked on in awe unsure if we should merely observe or whether we should take photographs. We did indeed take many photographs that will be treasured after we have left this incredible part of our planet! We fortunately had been on a loose schedule that allowed maximum opportunity to experience these special moments with the last Zodiac set for 8:00 p.m.
   
We completed another perfect day with a tri-fecta birthday party complete with balloons and bubbly, as Jeremy, Jessica and Helen each celebrated their passage into a new year. For Helen it was an especially important milestone. There was delicious cake for everyone. Yummy – thanks to Ed and Lance, Olga and Kate. Tomorrow is another day and some of us may be able to ‘knock Mt Honey off’ (to borrow a Kiwi phrase). Sleep well everyone.

Day 28: Tuesday 6th February (Waitangi Day)
Campbell Island

At 6:00 a.m. ten keen climbers, with Mt Honey in their sights, were transported by Zodiac to the trailhead at the end of Garden Bay. By 10:00 a.m. led by Olga and Dr. Bruce they had attained the summit and were looking down on the Spirit of Enderby from 569m, almost a record for this ‘walk’. They returned by noon all in good spirits after their exhilarating outing. Albatross were seen nesting on the slopes and Campbell Island Snipes were also sighted. 

The Col-Lyall Saddle drew 16 participants who separated into two groups, one that chose to take the boardwalk up to the higher levels led by Stephen, and the other that was content to hunt for snipe and other interesting wildlife at the lower levels led by Sarah. Sarah was successful with sighting of four snipe, one chick and one actually asleep and also a Yellow-eyed Penguin chick which was waiting patiently for its parent to return from a foraging excursion. It was a good walk of 4km up to Col Lyall Saddle with a brief blizzard to whiten up the landscape. Interestingly the albatross were almost non-existent compared with the previous afternoon. The morning is never a good time to sight albatross on land as they have departed early to forage on the ocean and return only in late afternoon to their nests and for their gamming rituals. The Zodiac cruise among the bays was equally popular and weather conditions were very good with the occasional snow squall. Sea lions were abundant as well as Campbell Island Shags and Pipits. An old rusted cauldron lying on the shore was investigated and determined to probably be from the homesteading days.

After two memorable days on Campbell Island the ship was fired up after dinner and the anchors were raised as we prepared to leave Perseverance Harbour. We now headed towards Bluff, 360 nautical miles distant. Rodney advised us to be ready for some ‘motion in the ocean’ as the wind had picked up in the ‘roaring forties’. He was correct (as usual) and we spent the afternoon moving carefully about the ship preparing for the end of our journey. Our ETA at Stewart Island is 6:00 p.m. tomorrow evening when we’ll share our final dinner together. What a wonderful journey it has been. We’re now dropping off our name tags, returning books to the library, exchanging photos, e-mail addresses and generally getting ready to face the ‘real world’ once again.


Photo credit: S. Gutowsky

Day 29: Wednesday 7th February
At Sea - Stewart Island, New Zealand

We slept as the two diesel engines hummed and the Southern Ocean lived up to its reputation. We are mostly hardened sea-dogs by now and, if not quite, the Port of Bluff is less than a day away. Tonight we’ll celebrate our voyage with a special dinner in the protective lee of Stewart Island. We’ll be celebrating the seventh birthday (a record) of the trip with Mick reaching another milestone today. Our ETA is 6:30 p.m. 

The afternoon’s activities included a special presentation by the chefs, Ed and Lance, entitled ‘Saucery on the High Seas’. They revealed the magic that the galley staffs uses to produce our consistently delicious food, three times a day, despite sometimes very trying conditions. It was also time to face the music and settle our accounts generated over the past 30 days. We then gathered in the lecture room for the final group meeting of our voyage. Rodney described tomorrow morning’s disembarkation procedure. Three items of note – quarantine, checked bags in the hallway (blue ribbons for airport delivery and yellow ribbons for the Kelvin Hotel) and passports for customs clearance. Rodney then conveyed Captain Dimitri’s and the crew’s best wishes to the passengers and thanked his staff for their efforts in making this such a successful journey. He also acknowledged our Russian crew who had done such a fantastic job throughout our journey.

We then enjoyed a wonderful photographic ‘summing up’ of our voyage with an outstanding video prepared by Lisle and Sarah accompanied by an upbeat soundtrack. This brought a tear of emotion to many as we relived the highlights knowing that our journey was about to end. We then were able to obtain a copy of this memento of the voyage on a suitably named ‘memory’ stick. 

Day 30: Thursday 8th February
Port of Bluff, New Zealand

The Spirit of Enderby engines roared to life at 5:30 a.m. for the last leg of our journey, from Stewart Island’s protective coast to the port of Bluff 25km away across Foveaux Strait. It was a fine morning and at 6:30 a.m. the Pilot boat came alongside and the pilot nimbly transferred to the rope ladder and climbed aboard to guide us safely into harbour.

They say all good things must come to an end and we must agree that we’ve had a unique and in many ways incredible series of experiences. From close-up encounters with rare forms of wildlife, to the magnificent and massive scale of land, sea, and ice-scapes, to moving visits to the historic huts of both Scott and Shackleton. We have been privileged to follow in their footsteps and may the grit of the polar explorers continue to inspire us to pursue our own seemingly impossible dreams.