1873: East Antarctica - In the Wake of Mawson 08 Jan 2018
Day 1: Monday 8 January
Invercargill, New Zealand
At long last our expedition, with 46 of us all keen to visit the Sub-Antarctic islands and to experience the wonders of Antarctica, is about to get underway. Some of us had arrived in the southern city of Invercargill on the fertile plains of Southland yesterday and the remainder today. Apart for a fast moving front with rain and wind last evening, today was beautiful and we were soon comfortably settled in the Kelvin Hotel. The expedition team had arrived from Christchurch on Sunday.
At the Kelvin Hotel we enjoyed meeting fellow passengers and Nathan Russ who first visited Antarctica when nine years old and became Head Chef when 18. Nathan has for the past decade been Operations Manager for the company. The ship’s Hotel Manager Nikki from Cairns Australia and seasoned Antarctican and Expedition Leader, Samuel Blanc, who has wintered at the French Antarctic station, Dumont D’Urville, was introduced along with the New Zealand Government Department of Conservation Representative, Jenny Ridgen and other members of his team.
A special welcome was extended to the two Enderby Scholars, Lucy from Australia, with a background in botany and ecology and Ellen from Dunedin, NZ who when just five, began a dead bird collection, is a science writer and presently a Masters student at the University of Otago. The objective of the Scholarships is one of “Keeping alive the Spirit of Enderby”.
Three Australians, Melissa Houghton, an entomologist, along with Kristen Gardner and Aimee Bliss, both water quality scientists, will leave the vessel at Macquarie Island and study post-eradication of pests.
We then enjoyed in the Level One restaurant, a sumptuous buffet in the true Southland and Kelvin Hotel tradition. Highlights included hot ham, roast lamb and beef, baked salmon, chocolate brownie, summer pudding with berries, lashings of whipped cream and of course fruit Pavlova, with the famous desert, first appearing in an early Kiwi recipe book. Sorry Australia, but it’s apparently true. Restaurant Manager Brendon and other staff saw to it that we had a very enjoyable meal.
Other members of our expedition team enjoyed a fine meal of blue cod, chips and salad at The Anchorage Restaurant in Bluff 30km from the city. Nestled below Bluff Hill, this is an interesting little town with a close knit community, which could easily have been the subject for a Steinbeck book.
Along one side of the main street are salt tolerant shrubs and oyster shells are spread beneath old fishing boats; now high and dry. The oyster fishery is good for the local economy and provides employment. A large oyster shell with sailing ship was a project of the Bluff History Group in 2013, which has since published their first Bluff newspaper.
And of interest was a large mural (by Kirsten Karaitiana) on the wall of a building stating;
Beneath the sea the oysters
Rock gently in their beds.
(by poet Cilla McQueen).
Most of us opted for an early night as from breakfast in the morning it will be full-on as our expedition gets underway.
Day 2: Tuesday 9th January
Southward bound. Bluff and Stewart Island
Noon position - Bluff: Latitude: 46o 35.624’S; Longitude: 168o 20.342’E
From Hints to Travellers 1889. On sea sickness.
“To avoid this, a comfortable but not excessive meal, should be taken shortly before embarking…, Having eaten with moderation the traveller, immediately the ship is under way, should get comfortably into his berth, and having well covered himself with rugs and, if possible, had a hot water jar placed at his feet, ought to adopt the horizontal position and compose himself to sleep… If however, sea-sickness supervenes, one of Rigollot’s mustard leaves moistened with water may be applied and kept tightly pressed for about ten minutes over the stomach, and a teaspoon of the following taken every half hour; Dilute hydrocyanic acid, thirty-two drops; bicarbonate of potash one drachm; water two ounces. Small pieces of ice dissolved in the mouth, also relieve sea sickness.”
We rose to a calm morning with a high vail of cloud, a temperature of 12oC and 3.8 kn. Breeze.
After breakfast, we met Heritage Expeditions lecturers Dean and David, who arranged conveyance of our luggage to the ship. Many of us with David, then visited the Southland Museum and Art Gallery, while others viewed the Botanic gardens or chose to shop.
At the museum we met the Curator of the Tuataraium, Lindsay Hazley, who has 30 years’ experience of breeding and rearing Tuatara (these are not lizards), in artificial environments. Our visit began with a presentation in the Theater, The Roaring Forties, which focused on New Zealand’s Sub-Antarctic Islands, followed by one on the Tuatara and a close encounter with live animals in the Tuatarium.
The oldest animal named Henry born at the close of the 19th century had arrived at the museum in 1970. He is reputed to be 120-150 years old and has two girlfriends, Mildred and Lucy. The species which is the only surviving member of the Order of Sphenodontia, has ancestry dating back 225 million years and all species except the Tuatara declined and eventually became extinct about 60 million years ago.
Lindsay pointed out many interesting features, such as the pineal (third) eye and one animal which laid very few eggs over two-three seasons. Several were fed live huhu grubs and they tended to sit with food in the mouth for a while conserving energy, and they then retreated to burrows. The burrows are in a much warmer environment of 5-6oC – more than the natural environment outside, with 23oC the threshold.
There were many excellent galleries with a recent one displaying beautiful portraits in oils on canvas by Chinroui of Ka Uri- descendants. Nearby were two magnificent Mere pounamu (greenstone weapons of a Chief) and a Toki poutangata (greenstone ceremonial adze), found in sand hills on Ruapuke Island by Peter Tipi in the 1960s. The Maori Gallery was beautifully laid out and the Awarua Gallery portrays, 130 years of Southland rugby including when Southland beat the French on 10 July 1979, with 12 points to 7.
The Beyond the Roaring Forties exhibition featured many artefacts and displays covering the ship wreck and castaway-era with death, starvation, despair, and making do with resources, unsuccessful attempts at pastoral farming, and secret stations during World War II. A Rata forest became alive with a grunting sea lion, which was so realistic that it frightened a visitor.
There was something of interest for everyone and the shop and café received many visitors.
We left at noon for the Kelvin where an excellent lunch was enjoyed and we were then escorted by David in a coach to Bluff. After a brief passport check, we arrived at our blue and white vessel, to be welcomed by Nikki our enthusiastic and competent Hotel Manager and found our luggage already in the cabins.
A few notes on our expedition ship and her naming will be of interest.
The 72m (236ft) Akademik Shokalskiy is one of five ships of the same class built in Turku, Finland, as research vessels, with our ship constructed in 1984 and listed on the Russian Register as KM ice class.
The ship has a bunker capacity of 320 tons for the two 1560 HP (1147kWt) engines achieving 12 knots and while cruising comfortably manages on one engine10 knots. Originally built for oceanographic work, it is owned by the Russian Federation Far Eastern Hydro Meteorological Research Institute in Vladivostok where it is Registered No. 179. In addition to Captain Igor it has 21 Russian crew.
Of interest is the naming of the ship. On Main Deck (Level 3) a panel by a portrait of Y.M. Shokalskiy, refers to “a highly respected academic CCCP 1856-1940, [who] lived a long and amazing life.” Dr Shokalskiy, was associated with several prominent scientists and the great Arctic explorer Fritjof Nansen. His primary interests were in the fields of geography, oceanography and cartography. He compiled works titled “Oceanography” and was a respected President of the [Russian] Geographical Society.
After settling in our cabin, we became familiar with the ship and enjoyed afternoon tea with excellent muffins and a glass of orange. At 3.30 p.m. we had a compulsory briefing with Samuel in the lecture room. This began with an introduction of staff, with each person briefly speaking, followed by important housekeeping rules outlined by Nikki. Finally there was an introduction to lifejackets, procedure for abandon ship drill and the use of a different type of self-inflating life jacket worn during Zodiac operations including procedure when using a Zodiac.
The mooring lines were released at 4.45 p.m. and with the Pilot on board we departed Bluff with a light swell at 5 p.m. Good views were of the Tiwai Point aluminium smelter using electricity from the Manapouri power station, the rocky shore with behind, native flax and introduced Marram grass. Foveaux Strait was reached at 5.15 p.m.
The pilot launch Takitimu 11 drew up alongside and it was exciting to see the Pilot clamber down the ladder with a rope grasped in each hand. Once on the Takitimu 11, the launch driver then lost no time in pulling away from our ship. We were now on the way.
After passing through Foveaux Strait we headed on a southerly course, that would take us off the east coast of Stewart Island or Rakiura as it is also known. The Stewart Island landscape in many places covered in scrub and bush and patches of weathered granite rock, was obscured by low cloud and fog. Birds identified by Gil, included Brown Skua, Grey-headed, Shy and Southern Royal Albatrosses, Prions, Shearwaters and a New Zealand Fur Seal.
At 5.45 p.m. we had a simulated abandon ship drill and reported to our lifeboat, where the engine was briefly started and the drill successfully concluded.
Stewart Island is New Zealand’s newest National Park and fortunately has no predatory stoats. It was named for William Stewart in 1909 a crewman on the Pegasus and has a rich flora and birdlife. The interesting human history for the island includes early Maori, sealers, the Ross Sea whalers in the 1920s, miners, saw millers and fishermen. We had excellent viewing of seabirds including Albatrosses, Little Blue and Fiordland Crested Penguins and of Dusky Dolphins.
The sea in the strait began to pick up and soon our ship was rolling gently. The bar which opened for an hour and a half provided an opportunity to meet fellow passengers and at 5.30 p.m. The Spirit of Enderby passed by on its way to Bluff.
When in the lee of Stewart Island although well off the east coast, the evening meal was served at 7.30. The meal began Gremolata prawns and for the main, a choice of honey soy, glazed New Zealand Salmon served with rice and Asian greens or slow roasted lamb shoulder, served with a medley of roasted vegetables and greens. The final was vanilla panacotta with fresh strawberries. It was an excellent meal also beautifully plated.
With an early ETA expected for The Snares, the rest of the night was spent quietly and we are hoping for a good view of the islands early tomorrow. We continued along the east side of Stewart Island and with a southerly front forecast, most of us decided to retire early. 
Photo credit: A. Breniere
Day 3: Wednesday 11th January
The Snares, en-route to the Auckland Islands
Noon position - Latitude: 48o 28.372’S; Longitude: 166o 35.511’E
Air temperature: 15oC Water temperature: 13oC
10 January 1912. Cecil Maddigan meteorologist AAE
“We carted the gear on sledges up to near the hut would be, about two hundred yards away, and tobogganed back on the sledges down the slopes…this was a great sport”
The good ship rocked and rolled a little during the night and by 5.30 a.m., we were off North East Island, the main island of The Snares and at 48o01.367S 166o37.333’E. Broughton Island was visible to the south-east. We were 100km south of the southernmost point of Stewart Island.
Large flocks of Sooty Shearwaters also referred to as Titi or “mutton birds” was heading out to sea for fish. A few Buller and Salvin’s (nest on Broughton Island) Albatrosses, the occasional Sooty Shearwater or Titi as known to Maori, Cape Petrel, Common Diving Petrel and other species, were about.
The Snares Islands formed of granitic rock, have a highest point of 152m, cover 328 hectares, a mean annual temperature of 11oC and an average rainfall of 1200mm per year. The position of the island group is listed as 48o01’S and 166o35’E.
The main island was discovered independently on 23 November 1791 by Capt. George Vancouver HMS Discovery and by Lieutenant William Broughton HMS Chatham, both of the Vancouver Expedition. The subsequent sealing era decimated the population and a small group of 3-4 convicts here for seven years, lived in five huts, grew potatoes and they were rescued in 1818.
The pest-free island group requires a permit to land, and has attracted science parties from the Universities of Canterbury and Otago, along with the National Institute for Water and Atmospheric Research (NIWA). Only 10 people a year are allowed to land and this includes members of two families who take rock lobster (crayfish).
We had a nice pink sky, before the sun rose at 6.05 a.m. Samuel had already called us and Nikki announced that an Orca (possibly two), a large male, was seen near the ship. It was a fine morning with blue sky, scattered clouds and an air temperature 15oC.
The Zodiac operation using four boats, each equipped with four-stroke 60HP engines, began at 6.15 a.m. Two hours was spent on the water and cruising off-shore, we enjoyed excellent views of the rocks, some with nice colouration, the zoning of vegetation adapted to salt-laden air with, Olearia lyalli, the tall ‘tree-daisy’ with leathery-like leaves prominent which is spread over 80% of the main island, along with a further ‘tree-daisy’ Brachyglotis stewartiae. Other plants included Cook’s ‘scurvy grass’; a mega herb (the term was introduced by Lyall on James Clark Ross’s expedition 1842); a shore Veronika with small white flower, and large Poa or tussock grass, this mostly on higher areas.
The many birds seen included, Snares Crested Penguins (Eudyptes robustus) of which there are 25-30,000, Buller Albatrosses nesting on grassy ledges on cliff faces, gatherings of Cape Petrels, Giant Petrels fighting as they tried to outdo each other with a dead penguin, Brown Skua, the small black endemic black, Snares Island Tomtit, Arctic Terns and some of us had good sightings of the small brown endemic Snares Islands Snipe. The Sooty Shearwaters, a burrowing Petrel on the higher areas of the main island and the most prominent bird species, with a calculated 2.7 million pairs (1971) and probably nearer 3 million, had mostly flown before dawn. Samuel said there is an abnormally high number of endemic species.
Excellent viewing was also enjoyed of New Zealand Fur Seals resting on rocks and with exception of at least one jelly fish seen, masses of tube-like free-swimming fire salps (Pyrosama), was observed. This tunicate is up to 10cm long, they were whitish-grey, had an exterior covered with small hooks and an opening of a siphon at one end of the inner tube. One predator is the sunfish, which swims vertically with the mouth permanently open.
A further interesting observation by Ellen, Kristian and Aimee, was of a small Diving Petrel being attacked by a Brown Skua. The petrel avoided the predator by diving below the surface and the skua went in search of other prey.
Visits were made to three caves and a major highlight was an excellent view of the famous “penguin slide” and slide they did, with large numbers of Snares Crested Penguins commuting over granite surface worn smooth, perhaps over hundreds of years.
We were amused to see penguins about to enter the water, then change their plan, slide in the process and with the next incoming swell, take advantage of this to run down the slope and dive into sea before the water retreated. Some penguins stranded in the kelp, managed to extricate themselves. In places, penguins were calling continually and from on nests on adjacent headlands, the hoarse, braying calls, of Buller’s Albatross were heard. On reaching Grafton Rocks, we then turned back.
We had certainly enjoyed a very special outing, with fine natural history observations, enhanced by rarely experienced calm conditions. Earlier there had been nice light for photography and Justin was able to try out his large and heavy Nauticam, with ultra-wide angle lens of 15o and external light. Soon after 8 a.m. we were all aboard and enjoying a late breakfast with fruit, a pancake and some nice crispy bacon.
We soon left The Snares and began our journey towards Auckland Islands. Little was done during the morning and many of us enjoyed a lie down. The sea was fairly calm, the morning sunny and the ship was performing nicely.
Today lunch was available at 1 p.m. and we enjoyed chicken drum sticks, chips and a very nice salad with a good selection of spring vegetables.
Samuel called us to the lecture room at 3 p.m. when he gave an excellent Introduction to the Auckland Islands. Geographic location, geology, botany, and animal life was discussed, also the various phase of human history including the creation of the various Reserves and the most recent, conservation, tourism (the first Permits were issued in 1989) and bio security requirements in preparation for our landing tomorrow.
Vacuum cleaners were then put in the Bar/Library area so we could clean our clothing, footwear and back packs etc. so that we transport nothing to the island. Tomorrow further measures will be undertaken with this focused on use of the disinfectant Virkon, for boots, tripods and walking poles.
It had been a very interesting and restful day and by late afternoon, the sea had calmed and at 5.30 p.m. a pod of Dusky Dolphins was seen off the bow.
The bar opened at 6 p.m. and Kirsten recorded with watercolor pencils, her impressions on her first visit to The Snares and that of entering a cavern with darkness, light and colour from red algae.
Dinner which included for the main, delicious Jem fish with Israeli couscous salad or whole roast ribeye was available at 7.30 p.m. This evening the ship was rolling slightly again and we prepared our equipment for a day out tomorrow.
Photo credit: A. Breniere
Day 4: Thursday 11th January
Enderby Island (Auckland Islands)
Noon position: Latitude: 50o 30.352’S; Longitude: 166o 16.802’E
Air temperature: 17oC Water temperature: 12oC
We arrived at Port Ross, 460 km south of Bluff around 1 a.m. It is named after the famous English Arctic and Antarctic explorer, James (later Sir) Clark Ross, who visited here in November 1840. Originally it was named Rendezvous Harbour by Dumont D’Urville, leader of the French expedition, but later renamed by Charles Enderby.
The island which is 4.5km long and 2-3km wide, was formed from a secondary flow from the Ross Volcano (the other being Carnley Volcano) and many of us on deck early, were fascinated with the spectacular columnar basalt cliffs with prominent jointing, topped by Rata forest and Dracophyllum, along the south side of the island. The rock has formed in this way during rapid cooling of the basalt lava.
The morning was one scattered cloudy and a light breeze creating a ripple on the sea. A few meters away, three curious, female sea lions, surveyed the big blue monster that had during the night, entered their domain. By 7 a.m. the temperature was 12oC and nesting shags were clearly visible in an area on top of the cliff. The light was excellent for photography, crepuscular rays from the sun obscured by light cloud and a rainbow, added to the pleasure of experiencing this beautiful locality.
We enjoyed a hearty breakfast and by 9 a.m. using two Zodiacs, the first of us was ferried ashore and we changed from gum boots to hiking footwear, leaving unwanted boots etc. in the 1888 boat shed (nearby a “finger post” is from 1889) and pointed to the site of the main castaway depot.
Chris Muller accompanied by five research staff, spoke briefly on their work which has since November, focused mainly on the Yellow-Eyed Penguin, with an emphasis on population and breeding success. There are 1700 breeding pairs in total, with about 300 breeding pairs on Enderby Island which appear to be “doing okay”. Work concerning the New Zealand (Hooker’s) Sea Lion has included, recording and marking, about 300 pups (last season 325) born on Enderby Island this season. The main breeding population is on Dundas Island in the Aucklands.
After a brief talk by Samuel, 19 long walkers accompanied by Nikki, Agnes and Dean, set out on their 10-11 km hike that would take them around the east end of the island, and the remainder of us followed on the 1.3 km board walk to the north side of the island, a little later.
We saw three Southern Royal Albatross on distant nests, A few Yellow-Eyed Penguins, flowering Rata, Gentians including a deep purple variety, Casinia with the small white flowers and a late flowering orange Bulbinella rossi, the others having finished flowering. Plant communities on top of the island, was also of interest with each plant such as small gentians, finding a niche in the sub-alpine environment.
On reaching the end of the boardwalk, we enjoyed seeing the wild Southern Ocean crashing over a platform of volcanic rock while further west along the coast and on a ledge high above the sea, was four nests of Light-mantled Sooty Albatross with two pairs, each having a small grey fluffy chick. This was a treat and provided the photographers amongst us, with better shots than for two Snipe that outwitted the photographers. Andrew C. decided it was easier to simply observe and enjoy, which brings the author to the following excerpt, from Hints for Travelers 1889.
“The traveler need not be discouraged if unable to secure completeness, for some of the greatest [photographic] journeys have been made with very inadequate resources.”
Later Andrew C. was fascinated with seeing an Auckland Islands Teal, conceal itself from a predatory Skua. It hid under kelp with the head on a side and watching, before the Skua thought better of it and left. This was real Sir David Attenborough material.
Some nice examples of the tall pink flowering mega herb, Anisotome latifolia, was enjoyed and other birdlife included good observations of the Auckland Islands Shag, Pipit, Tom Tit, Brown Skua and Bellbirds.
The Stella castaway depot was of special significance to Ellen, the great, great, great, great granddaughter, the site of the Enderby settlement farm house, where her Mother’s ancestor, Sarah Ann Cripps, along with her husband Isaac (29) and children, were sent from Hardwicke on 7 July 1850 for a week, “for a change of air”. Ella was named after great, great, Grandmother Ella Franklin, the daughter of Sarah Cripps.
Today part of a small cast iron stove from the farm house, that may have been burnt or dismantled, is all that remains and the Cripp family eventually left Hardwick in August 1852. Although we had a brief look around in the immediate vicinity, there was no sign of the stock yards.
The long walkers enjoyed good views of the Derry Castle Reef, where the barque with a load of grain from Geelong Australia was wrecked 20 March 1887. Fifteen were buried near here and many of us viewed the original wooden grave marker in the Southland Museum and the more recent memorial plaque, near the grave site. There were eight survivors (including one passenger) who subsisted on grain and shellfish for 92 days, as the Stella castaway depot was found to contain only one jar of salt.
Bird sightings was plentiful with Red-crowned Parakeet and a variety of other interesting birds including, Dotterel, an Auckland Islands Cormorant observed collecting twigs for a nest, Auckland Islands Tomtit, Brown Northern Skua, Kelp Gull, Arctic Tern, Auckland Islands Teal, Yellow-Eyed Penguin and a New Zealand Falcon that stood out clearly in the upper dead branches of a Rata tree. There were beautiful plants such as Anisotome, Casiniaand Plantago. The Gentians were very prolific and it seemed there was a greater concentration than seen by the short walkers.
It would be difficult to determine the most special aspect of today, as there were many. For Melissa the Rata forest was an unusual yet unique experience with a carpet of flowers from the canopy, an “ethereal experience”. However, also for Melissa, Kirsten and others, having three Yellow-Eyed Penguins approach those in the group, where they sat quietly for 15 minutes was a very special moment for all - probably one never to be repeated in one’s lifetime. They concentrated on the visitors to their land and then quietly, as did a further 8, then continue on their way.
Today was certainly a rare event in one’s lifetime. Late in the day the sun shone brightly on the fascinating landscape we had spent the day on. This was however, not an end to our activities for the day as we will see.
Many of us in the bar-library, enjoyed going through our photos, and at 5.30 p.m. the bar opened. Dinner this evening was at 6.30 p.m. and soon after 8 p.m. we again boarded the Zodiac for a further addition to an already wonderful day.
The evening was beautiful and the sea, with a slight ripple on the surface, as we headed to Erebus Bay and positioned the ship opposite the landing area. All of us went ashore and David spoke briefly on the history of Hardwicke, after which escaping squadrons of sand flies, we followed a board walk to the Cemetery. It was very peaceful and one could not help but be moved by the place, which contained those whose families never saw again. Small native orchids, three green and one blue, were by the track and some nice photos were taken.
Returning to the start of the board walk, we all went for a nice walk through the Rata forest to inspect the “Victoria Tree” with the 1865 inscription. This is the oldest physical remnant related to efforts to address the plight of shipwrecked victims in the Sub-Antarctic Islands. The “Victoria Tree” was created when an area of trunk was chiseled back to create a smooth working surface and was originally visible from the open sea.
More photos were taken and although no feral pigs were seen there was a lot of fresh rooting. Then it was back to the boulder beach at the landing and most was on board by 9.45 p.m.
With more activity planned for the morning and while the good weather lasts, we had an early night.
Day 5: Friday 12th January
Auckland Island – Musgrave Inlet; Tagua Bay
Noon position: Latitude: 50o 49.344’S; Longitude: 166o 16.365’E
Air temperature: 13oC Water temperature: 15oC
We rose this morning to a calm sea and all feeling much refreshed. At 5.45 a.m. the engine was started and soon we were on our way to the open sea and heading south toward Musgrave Inlet, named after Captain Thomas Musgrave of the Grafton washed ashore in Carnley Harbour in January 1864.
The morning was calm, temperature 13oC at 6 a.m. and low mist hung around the hills. Of interest were a large number of Giant Petrels busy with the carcass of presumably a small dead whale as too large to be a seal. By 6.20 a.m. we had passed the last of the islands and were in the open sea off the east coast of Auckland Island.
With breakfast over, five Zodiacs were launched and from 8–10.30 a.m., we enjoyed a superb cruise along two sides of the inlet. The first attraction was a Rockhopper Penguin colony beneath high cliffs below which were enormous basalt boulders. Some time was spent observing them jumping with both feet together, over the uneven surfaces and amongst kelp beside the shore, was large jellyfish with a purple center and common at other Sub-Antarctic Island localities. The light was ideal for photography.
We inspected a large cave although this was unable to be entered and further distinctive calls came from other Rockhopper Penguins along the shore. On the cliff faces were flowering Anisotome, Stilbocarpa and Poa.
We then crossed the inlet to the entrance and moved along the south side. In the water were numerous small red crustaceans and there was brief hilarity, when one retrieved by Kristen, was put in a boat. A Sooty Albatross with chick, 11 Cormorants and chicks, White-Fronted Terns and Kelp Gulls was observed and interesting jointing in the basalt rock.
A highlight was however, being able to enter three caves. The first had spectacular colours from minerals in the rock and we wondered how long the soil took to form on the rock and then be able to support large Rata and Dracophyllum trees. The second cave can only be described extraordinary, as the roof had collapsed and there was the amazing contrast between the green of vegetation about the rim, to the brown shades of the rock walls. Mike and David recalled how in 2014, when an opera singer sang an Aria, recorded by a member of the party on their cell phone. The third cave was long and very dark. The roof of this had the most amazing papers of white with brownish patches. The cave also had the most superb acoustics.
We then had a short crossing of the inlet to the ship which was reached at 10.15 a.m. The anchor was lifted and we began a two hour journey south past gently sloping hillsides with an olive-green to brown landscape ending in black cliffs, as we proceeded to Carnley Harbour which we entered at 12.20 p.m. Of interest were two rafts of Shearwaters, also sightings of Sooty Albatross and a pod of dolphins, although they were two far away to identify.
Following an excellent chicken green curry for lunch, two Zodiacs were put over the side and most of us took the opportunity of going ashore at Tagua Bay. This had a boulder beach and shells included limpets, the small paua (Haliotis Virginia) and various snails and mussels.
After securing the Zodiacs, we scrambled up to a terrace and made out way through Rata and other vegetation on a track that although having a few boggy areas, was generally easy walking. A Tui and a few Bellbirds was present however there was no sign of the New Zealand Falcon or Yellow-fronted Parakeet, which have been previously seen here.
The World War II Coastwatcher station is in total disrepair. Boards, window glass and rusting iron are scattered about the site. A few tins in the derelict were labelled Oatmeal, Rolled Oats, Tapioca, Raisins, Sultanas, Apples and Tea. David and Agnes who interpreted for the French folk with us, then gave a brief outline on the history of the station. Most of us continued the short stretch to the lookout hut that has been restored by the Department of Conservation. Here a large male sea lion was present and a female which decided to head back to the sea.
Soon we were again at the landing and back onboard. The anchor was lifted and we went up the harbour to inspect from the ship, the site of the wreck of the Grafton in January 1864.
This is one of the epics of small boat survival and came down to leadership of Musgrave and Raynal. Our position was 50o47.612’S 166o02.730’E and the ship now turned and we were heading back down Carnley Harbour. A large shoal of crustaceans (“krill”) such as observed earlier was seen and we slipped past the dramatic virginal landscape, to begin our journey to Macquarie Island. A small pod of dolphins was seen off the Auckland Island east coast but not identified. The day continued to be fine and sunny; rare for this part of the world.
Our visit to Auckland Islands had really been superb and was rounded off with great frivolity in the Bar/Library, followed by a beautifully plated meal, with very tender lamb strap and excellent Chatham Islands Blue Cod and both cooked to perfection. We will of course have to watch our waistlines and the expedition is not even a week underway. 
Photo credit: A. Breniere
Day 6: Saturday 13th January
Southern Ocean en route to Macquarie Island
Noon position: Latitude: 53o 08.091’S; Longitude: 161o 49.319’E
Air temperature: 16oC Water temperature: 11oC
Having a northerly and following sea last night, meant that we have slept well and made excellent progress as we cross the Southern Ocean. Two whales were seen at 51o24.977’S 165o15.221’E but not identified.
We enjoyed a lie in and surfaced to a fine sunny morning and a confused sea with scattered white horses. At 8 a.m. we were over 3800m of water and at 52o39.888’S 162o48.323’E. Several albatross were accompanying us and included Wanderer, Southern Royal and Light-Mantled Sooty. Other birds were Cape Petrel and Shearwater.
At 9 a.m. Samuel advised we hope to reach Macquarie Island at 11 p.m. The ship although rolling a little still has a following sea.
David gave the first lecture at 10 a.m. ‘Lost in the Mists’, focused on Sir Douglas Mawson’s Macquarie Island party in 1912-13 along with life on the island including personality problems and achievements.
It was, however, not a happy party as there were frequent clashes and the leader Ainsworth was unsuitable, as was Sawyer, one of the wireless operating staff. A shortage of food did not help matters and we were not all that enthusiastic at the idea, of eating Elephant Seal hearts stuffed with herbs then roasted, along with liver or kidneys. Extensive collections of seals, birds, plants and geological specimens were made, there were new soundings made off-shore, valuable meteorological records and the entire island was carefully mapped and the geology described.
By late morning we were over water 4200m in depth, on 230.8o, doing a respectable 12 knots and rolling up to 10o with the occasional roll in excess of this.
Agnes then gave her first lecture ‘Seabirds of the Southern Ocean’ at noon, when she described many of the birds we are likely to encounter. This was a timely and informative presentation as we already have a variety of birds about the ship.
Some of the aspects we learned, included a long life span (Royal Albatross can live up to 60 years), low breeding success, that they tend to be pelagic and spend much of their time at sea, are long distant travelers, have different sizes and social behavior, different methods of breeding and the various families mentioned was supported with excellent images taken by Agnes and Samuel.
Following lunch an important hour was spent on our bio-security before landing at Macquarie. During our time on Enderby and Auckland Islands, many of us picked up seeds in our clothing and footwear. It was therefore essential that none of these was transported onto Macquarie Island.
Arrangements were then made for us to obtain postcards although these will follow us home later as the Australian resupply vessel is not due at Macquarie until March.
We have on board people who have led and still lead an interesting life. One such person is John who lives at Port Douglas. Not only does he grow mangos which he slices, dehydrates and freezes, with sufficient to last all year, but he is also very much involved in Great Barrier Reef Legacy. Since 1995 he has undertaken the tagging and tracking of Minke Whales which head south to beyond Tasmania, White-Tip Reef and Tiger Sharks, Green Turtles and the Mollusc, the Chambered Nautilus. A remarkable photograph showed 26,000 Green turtles on a Raine Island beach.
Later in the afternoon we headed to the Lecture Room for a presentation by Dean; one of our staff. After a short trailer, we were treated to Dean’s one hour documentary “54o South Australia’s Sub-Antarctic – Journey to the edge of nowhere”.
The documentary focused on Dean’s field work during the 61st ANARE (Australian National Antarctic Research Expeditions) when he worked as a seal scientist and walked everywhere over the island during the course of this work. He found “Macquarie Island is a living test tube for the Southern Ocean” and that the west coast in particular, is “rugged and wild, yet full of life”.
A highlight was his visit under demanding conditions to Hurd Point with its population of 1.5 million Royal Penguins. It was over an 80 hour return journey, during which around 100 hours of film was obtained with his Sony EX1 Camera, although was edited back to one hour. It was an amazing and highly professional production with Dean providing much of the script.
Melissa, who departs the ship tomorrow, then spoke of her work during the rabbit eradication programme. This cost the Tasmanian and Federal Government AUD$26 million and was carried out in collaboration with New Zealanders led by Keith Springer, a former New Zealand Scott Base Manager.
There was an estimated 150,000–170,000 rabbits on Macquarie and these were destroying vegetation by grazing, destabilizing land including albatross breeding sites and were having an impact on burrowing birds and invertebrates. The work which involved five years of planning and five of baiting also had 22 dogs.
Melissa is now returning to “Macca” for post-eradication monitoring of sites with invertebrates. Other work relates to burrowing petrels.
Given the rolling of the ship, Bruce, Connor and the stewardesses, did a magnificent job with a further excellent meal. The tender rib-eye steak with garlic prawns and duck fat potato was only part of an overall great nice menu for Ice Culture. With the ship taking some large waves, most of us secured our effects and had an early night. Tomorrow promises to be an excellent one for activity and new experiences.
Day 7: Sunday 14th January
Macquarie Island
Noon position: Latitude: 54o 34.145’S; Longitude: 158o 55.963’E
Air temperature: 13oC Water temperature: 10oC
Last evening we anchored in Buckles Bay at 11 p.m. It had been a dream run from Auckland Island and except for a little rolling during the night, we had a good rest.
This morning we rose to an overcast day with occasional light rain with the wind up and the ship rolling with the swell. The temperature 13oC and our position 54o30.268’S 158o56.745’E. North Head and the green hills stood out prominently in 1911, this setting was soon familiar to Mawson’s five men, who would spend two years here; the location of his northern most base for the Australasian Antarctic Expedition 1911-14.
Macquarie Island has a long and very interesting human history with numerous ships having been wrecked on the island’s exposed, rocky coastline. This history began with the discovery by Captain Frederick Hasselburgh the 11th of July 1810 and finding of the remains of an earlier ship. A gang of sealers with supplies was put ashore and at the time it was then estimated that there were between 200,000-240,000 seals, with in the first 18 months 120,000 skins taken. Between the years 1810-1819 there are a staggering 207 recorded ship visits.
In the 19th century Emerald Island was supposed to exist south of Macquarie, however, various searches for it were unsuccessful and the island may have in fact been an iceberg.
On 11 December 1911, Mawson had arrived at Macquarie Island from Hobart, on the SY Aurora. He wrote “Macquarie Island…was sighted on December 11…This habitable island has a length of over 20 miles and greatest breadth of 3½ miles. The chief vegetation is tussock grass and Kerguelen cabbage, but it abounds in a truly wonderful population of birds and animals. At one time it was a favourite haunt of the valuable fur seal, but for fifty years or more only odd specimens have been seen. The ruthless slaughter by the early settlers is responsible for this almost complete extermination. Sea elephants, however, are numerous, the bulls being met with up to 20 feet in length and weighing some 2 tons.”
Much has been written about Macquarie Island however, it is useful to remind ourselves of a few facts.
Macquarie Island has an approximate length of 34km, a width of 5km, an area of 128km2 and an annual rainfall of 905mm. In 2016, 1200mm was recorded. It rains for 308 days of the year hence the nickname of “The Sponge”. Mt Hamilton (433m) is the highest point.
On Macquarie the rocks are mostly 10-30 million year basalts which include pillow lavas formed when super-heated lava is cooled very quickly under the ocean. Every rock on the island was formerly on or deep below the sea bed. Of those formed at depth, the rocks are 2-12 million years old and some can be seen at Sandy Bay. On the plateau in the north are ultramafic rocks formed at least 6km below the earth’s surface.
Geologically, the island is highly significant, as it is the only known area of oceanic crust in relatively pristine condition and independent of any other continent. The World Heritage rating was based on this unique geology. Along the coast rock “stacks” are remnants of a former coastline.
The island is rich in bird life with Antarctic and Fairy Prions, Northern and Southern Giant Petrels; Grey, White-headed and Blue Petrels, Macquarie Island Shags (Blue-eyed cormorants), Light-Mantled Sooty, Wanderer and Grey-Headed Albatrosses and Northern (Brown) Skuas.
Insects are abundant, however, in contrast, there are only 45 vascular plants (have vessels conducting fluids – water plus mineral salts and food) of which three plants, are endemic to the island. Because the island is too far south, there are no trees or shrubs and the flora is dominated with mega herbs, tussock grasses and ferns. Prominent plants include the tussock (Poa foliosa); Macquarie Island “cabbage” (Stilbocarpis polaris) and the Macquarie Island daisy (Pleurophyllum hookeri).
As Sir Douglas Mawson summed up Macquarie when he wrote in 1919
“This little island is one of the wonder spots of the world.”
At 9.15 a.m. (7.15 a.m. Aussie time) our Australian friends Melissa, Kristen and Aimee with their gear, climbed into a Zodiac and were taken by Samuel to the landing where they were met by AAD staff and a quad bike. The wind was up to 23 knots however, sea conditions were not too rough although from the ship, we could see waves breaking on the rocky shore.
Connor drove a second boat and both then returned with two Tasmanian Parks and Wildlife Service Rangers (Head Ranger Andrea Turbott and Penny) accompanied by, Emry, a Bureau for Meteorology, technical engineer, and Cliff, the storeman. There are at present, 25 staff on the AAD station.
At 9.40 a.m. we lifted the anchor and proceeded south to Sandy Bay (54o34.053’S; 158o56.067’E), also on the east coast of the island and anchored. Soon King and Royal Penguins were seen swimming about the ship and we had good views of their method of locomotion.
We assembled in the Lecture Room at 10.10 a.m. for a briefing from Samuel who gave an introduction concerning the history and features of Macquarie Island. An interesting aspect is that on Bellingshausen’s landing 28 November 1820, there was no naturalist and most of what we know of the island, including the first map drawn, was from the artist Pavel Mikhailov. Many wild dogs and cats were reported and two flightless parakeets (now extinct) were taken from the island.
Andrea then explained the protocol for our landing and stressed biosecurity which is of even greater importance since the eradication. Samuel then outlined what we hope to do and the weather expected over the next two days.
Lunch today was at noon and after tucking into a fine dish of pasta with carbonara sauce, the landing operation was underway by 1.15 p.m. We had no sooner arrived than the rain was falling. This did not dampen our spirits as we were about to enjoy a special experience. Andrea gave us a briefing and we were then left to our own and to make the most of our visit to Sandy Bay.
One could not help but immediately become as part of the local penguin and Elephant Seal domain. There were two clusters of Elephant Seals lying side by side like logs at a saw mill. From time to time a large male would challenge another as they competed for space and presumably warmth. Their attitude can be best described as “violent”, for they proceeded to grunt and thump the chest against the opposition’s while at the same time, emit a deep resonating sound from the inflated proboscis. Perhaps they had returned to the same beach where they had been born and were simply cementing their claim?
King and Royal Penguins were everywhere and they came to us. We had an excellent opportunity to observe the birds at close quarters and a good photographic record was obtained. The sound of 40,000 Royal Penguins at the nearest large colony was deafening and we wondered how each bird on leaving the colony to go fishing, how on return it knew where its home was.
Overall there is 1.7 million of the species at “Macca” as Macquarie is affectionately known. With egg-laying now over, there were numerous well developed chicks about one month old and near the colony eggs which had a faint bluish tinge, had been dropped with the contents eaten by Skuas. A well-developed Skua chick near the excellent board walk was about a month old.
We could also see the extent to which eradication had resulted in regeneration of the tussock, Anisotome and other plants. Staff member David H. said he had noticed an increase in growth since his last visit a year ago and that the island appeared much as he remembered it from the first visit in 1993.
The King Penguins were sitting on eggs and small chicks were seen from time to time. Adult birds were also at various stages of moulting and many were content to sit where they were. Others were sleeping. The moulting process takes 4-6 weeks and the birds tended to huddle in a group without moving, although the occasional bird was seen removing old plumage. We were also able to enjoy at close quarters other birds such as Giant Petrels, Skuas and Kelp Gulls and birds in flight included Sooty Albatross and a white morph, Giant Petrel.
This was nature observation that could not be better and we agreed that there was no substitute for seeing wildlife in the natural environment. While photographs are a good record, as Andrea said, they are “only a memory” and perhaps Jane’s comment “This is the most amazing place I have ever seen” was typical for many of us. Jane and Warren have always been “wildlife enthusiasts”. There was so much to see and enjoy. Even on the course sandy beach were bones of long dead penguins, seals and interesting pebbles, from Macquarie’s distant geological past.
By 5 p.m. and a bit damp, we were all on board, the wind and swell were up and the ship then relocated to Buckles Bay. On return of the last Zodiac to the ship at 5.30 p.m. a pod with five Orca whales was seen.
Some amusing comments from a previous expedition relate to Elephant Seals and penguins.
‘I did not expect to find a clone of my boss and such a big mouth. I took a photo’
‘Makes you want to go on a diet’
‘Elephant Seals have come to bed eyes’ and
‘The Royal Penguin colony reminds me of Beijing’
The bar was a very lively place this evening and the dinner this evening was superb as always. The smoked salmon blinis with dill crème fraiche followed by either the Chicken Marbele or Denver leg steak followed by lovely sticky date pudding which rounded the day off perfectly. Those who enjoyed the Denver steak all agreed that it was the finest venison that they have ever had.
This evening we have 25 knots of wind blowing and five new guests from the station, who are travelling with us to Antarctica – Dr Cath King; Jess Holan; Cath Dickson; Ro Hannaford and Dr Julie McIness. They arrived like bumble bees in their fine yellow and black jackets and had been working on soil remediation and the effects of climate, Skua research and the Azorella cushion plant. It had been a fantastic day and more are looked forward to.
Photo credit: A. Breniere
Photo credit: D. Miller
Day 8: Monday 15th January
Macquarie Island – Buckles Bay, Lusitania Bay and Southern Ocean – en route to Antarctica
Noon position: Latitude: 54o 43.054’S; Longitude: 158o 51.969’E
Air temperature: 8oC Water temperature: 9oC
We had a reasonably comfortable night and this morning it was fine with a temperature of 3oC and westerly blowing up to 40 knots at 8 a.m. with a good surf breaking along the beach. Occasionally the ship rolled to 20o. Following discussion by Samuel with the Captain, the anchor was lifted and before 9 a.m. the ship relocated to shallower water, although surf was still breaking along the beach.
The aim was to try and go ashore at 9.30-9.40 a.m. and while assembled along the deck, one or two Orca was seen. However although the anchor was lifted and the ship changed position, intermittent swells coming in and occasionally of two metres, made it too risky and it was better to be safe than sorry. The landing was called off and at 10 a.m. and with the islands green landscape to starboard, we headed south on a two hour journey to Lusitania Bay, home to 100,000 breeding pairs of King Penguins.
Lusitania Bay along with Lusitania Anchorage was named in February 1822 after a 30 ton sealing vessel, by Captain Langdon RN. The infamous New Zealander, Joseph Hatch, placed here in 1899, an oil processing plant, with a shed containing three steam digesters. Coal-fired and using steam, these operated like a giant pressure cookers and with men working 12 hour shifts, up to 2000 penguins could be processed at a time with each providing ½ litre (one pint) of oil.
By 1894 the colony was almost non-existent. Three years ago one digester toppled over and as Rodney Russ once said, “Eventually the digesters will rust away and the penguins will have the last laugh.” Perhaps as one of the guests said, “Perhaps an irate penguin kicked it over.”
The anchor was lowered in 30m of water at noon and we were then able to visit the bow and enjoy watching the penguins and their antics about the ship there were scores of them. This was our final opportunity to perhaps see the species and certainly in such large numbers. Some were lying briefly on their side or back and all were curious at our presence. Using their flippers, they were able to gain an extraordinary speed when swimming and on starting often left a large trail of bubbles.
Lunch today was pizza with three excellent varieties – vegetarian, chicken and meat accompanied by a nice fresh salad and finishing up with sultana muffins. By 3 p.m. the engine was started, the anchor raised and with the ship now beginning to roll a little, we prepared to head towards Hurd Point at the bottom of the island. Thirty minutes later, we were facing the Southern Ocean and will do so for the next three days.
Samuel advised that the wind from the west is expected to reach 25 knots today and will rise to perhaps 30 knots tomorrow. This will strike us on the beam and we accordingly organised our cabins and decided to have as much rest as possible.
Today the Iceberg Sighting Competition was announced. The rules are simple – must be the size of a double-decker bus above sea level; it must be sighted visually and not by radar and no Staff or Crew can enter and bribes are unacceptable.
At 5 p.m. many of us assembled in the Lecture Room and enjoyed hearing from each of the scientists who joined the ship yesterday, a brief account on their work and this was followed by the very good documentary on the eradication programme in which Melissa who left the ship yesterday, was part of the dog handling team.
Only a small group gathered in the Bar/Library and this evening, the ship was rolling only slightly. After an excellent expedition dinner, as with last evening most of us retired early to the cabin. Quote for the day. One of our guests requested “dry lemonade” to which Jan standing nearby said “it’s an empty lemonade bottle”
Photo credit: A. Breniere
Day 9: Tuesday 16th January
Southern Ocean
Noon position: Latitude: 57 o 44.933’S; Longitude: 155 o 26.409 ’E
Air temperature: 6 oC Water temperature: 5 oC
198 years ago today, Admiral Thadeus Bellingshausen discovered Antarctica – 16/17 January 1820
We rolled a bit during the night, although this was not too unpleasant this morning at 8 a.m. it was blowing about 30 knots from the north-west. There was a confused sea with a few white horses and the occasional splash over the bow. Our course was 213.4o and position 57o12.050’S 156o07.233’E.
The water and air temperature was 6oC and a brief spell of fog over the sea indicted we may be approaching the Convergence. Birds sighted included a Wandering and Southern Royal Albatross and a small fast flying prion.
At 9.45 a.m. we assembled in the Lecture Room for the excellent documentary The Silence Calling, based on the 50 year Australian Antarctic programme history compiled by Tim Bowden. This is an excellent book and the film as with the book traces the many developments including an era with huskies that will not happen again.
At noon we assembled in the Lecture Room for a presentation by Samuel on “Penguins”. This was a superb lecture supplemented with excellent photographs, mostly by Samuel who began with a history of early sightings by Vasco de Gama and Ferdinand Magellan both of whom did not know what they were, the French explorer, Jean Baptiste Bouvet, who reported penguins 33 years before the British mariner James Cook. Cook, however, during his voyages of discovery, described seven of the 18 species of penguins and the French explorer, Dumont D’Urville, went as far as naming a penguin after his wife Adéle; now the Adelié Penguin. The oldest description of a King Penguin is from 1768 by Thomas Pennant.
This was followed by discussion on the evolution of penguins with the fossil record indicating ancestors lived on land 30-40 million years ago. These were two metres high and weighed about 100 kg with fossils found on the Antarctic Peninsula and in North Otago New Zealand.
We then learned about the biology and ecology of some of the various species, where they are found, and adaption to life in water, such as having heavier bones, the special uropygial gland which produces as oily substance transferred by the beak for waterproofing and the thick plumage over a layer of fat. Aspects of reproduction, physiology, diet and predation were covered.
At conclusion of the lecture, we were asked if we would be prepared in our life time, to be like an Emperor Penguin and fast for eight years, walk 40,000 kilometres and like an Adelié be able to scratch our head with a foot.
At 1.15 pm we were ready for lunch and today an excellent beef stew with a pastry was served along with the usual fresh salad and a cake slice for desert. Most of us then had a rest as the sea is still rough and striking the ship on beam.
Soon the Antarctic Convergence will be crossed. This is a waving curve continuously encircling Antarctica and which varies in latitude seasonally, where cold, northward flowing Antarctic waters meet the relatively warmer waters of the sub-Antarctic and lies in the zone of westerly winds. The Convergence is essentially a temperature and salinity boundary of the Southern Ocean and is a feature of great interest to oceanographers and biologists. The water temperature falls to about 4oC and with the air temperature warmer, there is often a period of fog over the water surface and may also have a concentration of sea birds. The boundary moves north or south according to the season.
The Antarctic Divergence a further important oceanographic feature, is the region near 60o South of the Antarctic Polar Front where high salinity North Atlantic deep water, upwells from 2500m to just below the surface and mixes with low-salinity Antarctic surface water. This oceanic boundary lies at 60-65o South below the eastward flowing Antarctic Circumpolar Current and the westward flowing Antarctic Coastal current.
Our final lecture for the day was given by David and focused on the Unveiling of East Antarctica, the region to which we are heading.
The lecture was very detailed and covered 185 years of history, beginning with the notion put forward by the Egyptian geographer Ptolemy in 150 AD that the world was symmetrical and that it should contain a southern continent of “unknown south land – Terra Australis Incognita” or Antarktikos to balance the land in the north known as Arctic after the constellation, Bear. The lecture was concluded with the International Geophysical Year 1957-1958.
Of interest is that 198 years ago today, the Russian Admiral Thaddeus Bellingshausen on 16/17 January, discovered Antarctica. This was confirmed on 6 February when he wrote
“Behind icy fields of small ice and islands, is to be seen a continent of ice, whose edges are broken off perpendicularly, and which stretches as far as the eye can see, becoming higher towards the south in the same way as the coast.”
The Bar/Library attracted a small number of enthusiasts and some of us indulged in the game Yahtzee.
The evening meal was again a treat with the option of having either duck breast with potato gnocchi or chicken cordon bleu with soft polenta and honey mustard cream sauce. As always, Bruce and Conner cooked a superb meal and with the sea picking up, many of us headed to the bunk.
Day 10: Wednesday 17th January
Southern Ocean, first icebergs and Humpback Whales
Noon position: Latitude: 61 o 14.402’S; Longitude: 161 o 55.817’E
Air temperature: 3 oC Water temperature: 5 oC
We had a rough character building ride last night, but could have been worse and at 3 a.m. we were in the waters that come under the jurisdiction of the Antarctic Treaty. This means that no waste or any other materials can be discharged into the sea.
At 4.00 am. the first iceberg was picked up on the radar at 60o01’S 153o18’E.
This morning at 7.40 a.m. we were at 69o40.683’S 152o175.34’E. on a course of 216.3o and doing 11 knots. Wind was blowing at 31 knots from the south-west and a lone Southern Royal Albatross was seen.
Because of the conditions and to make it more comfortable for breakfast the Captain changed course to a south-east track on 218.5o. We were now near the East Indian Ridge and water depth was 2557m. At 9.30 a.m. we changed course again to 211.2o for Commonwealth Bay and may arrive tomorrow evening. An improvement in the weather is forecast.
The documentary Frozen Planet was shown at 10.40 a.m. although some of us also preferred to have a rest. Most of us however enjoyed the usual fresh salad and chili con carne for lunch and at 2.30 p.m. the first episode of Longitude was screened.
Longitude
Longitude is a geographic coordinate that specifies the east-west position of a point on the Earth’s surface. It is an angular measurement, usually expressed in degrees and denoted by the Greek letter λ. The prime meridian is assigned the value of 0 Degrees and runs through Greenwich England. The Meridian for the west of the prime meridian is measured in degrees west and likewise those to the east of the prime.
In the 18th Century the only way to navigate accurately by sea was to follow a coast line all the way which would get you from Europe to the West Indies or the Americas. Observing the sun or stars would give you latitude, but not the longitude unless done in conjunction with a clock that would keep time accurately at sea but no such clock existed.
The British Parliament then set up a substantial prize to find the longitude. In the film, 18th Century. John Harrison builds a marine chronometer for safe navigation at sea and in the 20th Century. Gould is obsessed with restoring it and devotes his life to the project, with his marriage failing in the process.
With calming seas, it was a good chance to catch up on some sleep and to tidy the cabin. Soon we were, however, on the Bridge and enjoying at close quarters, our first iceberg and whales. One berg was well off the port bow and the other with a slightly con cave surface, had distinctive ice layers and a cavern and crevasse with the most superb electric blue ice. Waves were washing along the side and in places the berg was undercut.
Numerous small pieces of ice were in the water along with a flock of 14 Antarctic Prions and two Sooty Shearwaters. Many photographs were taken and the position when we passed the berg was 62o13.259’S 150o44.366’E. Jane won the prize for Time and Ronny for Latitude. Dr Suzanne won the staff competition for Time – 6 p.m.
We enjoyed excellent views of the two Humpback Whales seen before the berg and included a flipper, tail fluke and under surface with markings clearly visible. We expect to see bergs on a daily basis and certainly more whales.
Photo credit: A. Breniere
Download a full log from this expedition departure.
