1871: Forgotten Islands of the South Pacific 03 Jan 2018
Day 1: Wednesday 3 January
Bluff
Bluff is blanketed by fog. Staff ashore are manipulating the oldest Zodiac, named “Babushka”, onto a trailer to be whisked away for repairs before sailing. Dry stores have been inventoried, and sundry other chores completed before the arrival of passengers this afternoon. Initial concerns over the effect of fog on flights into Invercargill was soon dispelled as the breeze increased revealing a classic Bluff summer day, hot, sunny and clear.
Martin and Sarah went to the Kelvin Hotel where they met the passengers, checked all bags onto the truck for delivery to the ship then, with all the passengers accounted for, boarded the bus to Bluff. First stop was at the Bluff Harbour Security Control where the friendly staff signed us through onto the wharf. We boarded the Spirit of Enderby where passengers located their cabins, were re-united with their bags then set about exploring the ship.
At 16:00 the Expedition Leader, Alex Fergus, gave all passengers a comprehensive briefing covering our future activities, life aboard ship, and the emergency procedures then followed with the introductions to our staff Jessie the Hotel Manager, Ed and Lance the chefs, Medical Advisor Neil, and guide/lecturers/Zodiac Drivers Sarah, Martin, Mitch and Nick.
The engines were started at 16:50 and by 17:00 we were underway to the Pilot Station. With the Pilot aboard we steamed slowly past the Sterling Point light out of the Port of Bluff. His job done, the Pilot clambered down a rope ladder onto his vessel, and Captain Dimitry set our course for The Snares islands.
At 17:45 the Abandon Ship alarm sounded and passengers, staff and crew, all bulked up in their big Solas Life jackets, went immediately to Lifeboat stations and climbed aboard their assigned boats. All passengers, quickly became aware of the intimate surroundings and lack of a “bathroom” in the ship’s lifeboats. To the relief of all, this vitally important drill was carried out without a hitch.
At 18:30 Alex gave his comprehensive Zodiac briefing introducing all passengers to the rubber boats which are such a vital part of an expedition ship’s equipment. Following this, it was into the bar where passengers were able to assess the wines, spirits and beers available and discover the restorative properties of Moa beers.
Dinner was a culinary ‘tour de force’ prepared by Ed and Lance and served by Natalia and Olga.
So far, the weather has held fine with light winds and bright sun all day.
Photo credit: S. Gutowsky
Day 2: Thursday 4 January
The Snares
We awoke to what promises to be yet another lovely day with calm sea, ideal for Zodiac cruising off The Snares Islands.
At 07:15, Alex gave an overview of the day’s Zodiac cruising at The Snares. At 08:00, the boats were in the water and we set off, in slight seas with a very slight skiff of rain, for the coast of Brougton Island, the southern most of the main Snares Islands. The Snares Islands are remarkable as they are the only forested islands without introduced mammals, not even mice.The rock cliffs are composed of 100 million year old granite and the top of the islands is covered with a thick layer of peat. The forest covering the island is dominated by the large tree daisy Olearia lyalli which is closely associated with another tree daisy Brachyglottis stewartiae. Around the shore the white flowered Hebe elliptica is prominent. We slowly puttered northward past the cliffs and fantastically sculptured stacks of Northeast Island, with large groups of Snares Crested Penguins around the boats. We had hoped to watch the dawn mass exit of millions of Sooty Shearwaters for their feeding grounds in the rich waters of the subtropical convergence just offshore. We should have arrived, at the island at first light rather than sunrise to catch the birds leaving. You live and learn in this game. Undismayed, we revelled in the sight of diving petrels, nesting Buller’s Albatross, skuas, Red-billed Gulls (both adults and juveniles), Antarctic and Grey-fronted Terns around our Zodiacs. Not to be outdone, Hooker’s Sea Lions (a 6 year old male and 3-4 year old male) kept us company as we moved through the tunnel into Ho-Ho Bay. Fur seals were numerous along the cliffs, just above the water, but preferred to bask in the sun rather than join us. The water here is normally exceptionately clear, but today the inshore surface layer was clouded by huge swarms of colonial jellyfish-like salps. Our final destination was the famous Penguin Slide. At this site, countless generations of Snares Crested Penguins have hopped out of the sea after foraging and trudged their way up the 40° slope for about 300m until they reach the level of their nests. There they will exchange places with their partner who will totter down to the water to repeat the exercise. In this process the penguins feet and claws strip away any last vestige of vegetation so the Penguin Slide is bare, polished rock for about 300m. Those in Nick’s Zodiac were given a final treat, a quick trip around the northern end of the island far enough to see the saw-toothed shapes of the five islands of the Western Chain at the southern end of the group. The Zodiacs then made their way south and mustered at the pick-up point at 10:45. Twenty minutes later all passengers were back aboard the Spirit of Enderby and the Zodiacs secured for the run south to the Auckland Islands.
During the run to the Auckland Islands we were lucky enough to make sightings of six Long-finned Pilot Whales, five killer whales and, best of all, four Arnoux’s Beaked Whales, an infrequently seen species of offshore beaked whale.
After yet another super meal from Ed and Lance, we joined Sarah in the lecture room for her fascinating talk ‘Birds of The Snares’. This was followed at 14:30 by the call to clean boots and equipment as part of the necessary quarantine measures we have to undertake to prevent the spread of unwanted plants between island groups. At 17:00, after the clean up, we joined Alex in the lecture room for a very comprehensive, interesting introduction to the Auckland Islands. A sojourn in the bar followed by dinner put the cap on a superb day.
Photo credit: A. Fergus
Photo credit: S. Gutowsky
Day 3: Friday 5 January
Sandy Bay – Enderby Island
At 04:00 Captain Dimitry brought the ship to anchor off Sandy Bay, Enderby Island. Passengers were then able to appreciate the blissful couple of hours sleep before before succumbing to Jessie’s dulcet toned wake up call to breakfast at 06:30. This was to be a very busy and rewarding day, again in beautiful weather.
After breakfast, staff helped Ed and Lance prepare 58 packed lunches for those heading ashore at Enderby Island.
This was followed by a briefing on today’s planned activities beginning with the helicopter operations at 07:30 – landing drums of jet fuel on Enderby and removing old empty drums back to the ship for return to Bluff, a potentially tricky operation coordinated by Mitch and Nick with Richard “Hannibal” Hayes of Southern Lakes helicopters.
Heritage Expeditions regularly teams up with Southern lakes Helicopters to maintain the supplies of aviation fuel on Enderby Island and Campbell Island. These supplies are essential for emergency evacuations from these islands. The helicopter will be used to transport 15 205 litre drums of aviation fuel ashore, and a similar number of empty drums back to the ship for transport to Bluff. This year the cooperation is extending to benefit two scientific projects on the Auckland Islands, one of these is the annual count of sea lion pups at Dundas Island. The other project is to photograph nesting albatrosses on Disappointment Island off the northwest coast of Auckland Island.
There followed a further Quarantine boot cleaning exercise at 07:30, overseen by Sarah and Martin, for those who didn’t manage to complete this yesterday. Immediately following this, passengers collected their packed lunches and compulsory ‘poo bags’ and were ready to go ashore.
At 08:00 Martin and Sarah prepared two Zodiacs for ferrying passengers ashore beginning at 08:30. Passengers had been divided into two groups, ‘Long Walkers’ who would take the walk around the eastern half of Enderby Island, and ‘Short walkers’ who travelled in leisurely fashion up the boardwalk to the northern cliffs and east as far as the Light-mantled Sooty Albatross nests and returning to Sandy Bay with all the time they required for botanising, birding and sea lion watching. Once ashore, all passengers gathered at the Boatshed at Sandy Bay and were introduced to two of the researchers Chris and Sarah who were running the Yellow-eyed Penguin and sea lion investigations respectively. After this introduction all set off across the boardwalk for what transpired as a magnificent day in weather most could only dream of.
The first Zodiac returned to the vessel at 14:30 and the rest on demand until about 17:30 when the last walkers were taken back to the ship.
The after-walk buzz of conversation in the Globe Bar is always the best indication of a good day. This evening it was difficult to hear yourself speak as walkers compared notes and species of flora and fauna seen culminating with sea lion pups being born on the beach at Sandy Bay.
Having studied the weather conditions over the next couple of days, Alex decided we should make an overnight run to Campbell Island to maximise the opportunities presented by the weather. This was to prove an inspired decision.
Photo credit: S. Gutowsky
Photo credit: J. Prebble
Photo credit: J. Prebble
Day 4: Saturday 6 January
Perseverance Harbour – Auckland Islands
At about 12:00, after an easy run from the Auckland Islands, we approached Bull Rock near the entrance to Perseverance Harbour Campbell Island. As we steamed through the entrance we passed the main sea lion rookery on Davis Point to starboard and 10 minutes later the Paradise Point rookery up the hill on the port side. The weather conditions were perfect for the day’s planned activities, a climb up Mt. Honey with Alex and Mitch, and a Zodiac cruise of the harbour beginning with viewing of Light-mantled Sooty Albatross nests on the northern cliffs toward the entrance returning up the harbour to Beeman Base, Tucker Cove, Camp Cove, Garden Cove, Venus Cove and back to the ship. Followed by a walk to Col Lyall.
At 13:15 the Mt. Honey walkers were ‘zodiaced’ to their start point in Garden Cove and began their ascent. Fifteen minutes later, the rest of the excursioneers left the ship for their harbour cruise. Sarah located a number of nesting LMSAs, one with an inquisitive chick (excellent photo opportunity). We headed back up the harbour and cruised around Tucker Cove, the site of the only successful farming venture. In about 1895, a Gisborne man J.Gordon built a homestead and woolshed on the flat land on the western side of the cove. He released about 300-400 sheep then, in 1900, sold out to Capt. W.H.Tucker who employed whalers from Picton to farm the sheep and carry out shore whaling from Capstan Cove in Northwest Bay in the winter. At its peak in 1916, the farm had a wool clip of 131 bales from 6,800 sheep and 1,600 lambs. However, the isolation, difficulty of supply and very wet climate led to the farm being abandoned in 1931. From 1970-1991 the island was fenced off into 3 blocks and the sheep removed. The only evidence of the farming at Tucker Cove is the remains of a cast iron wood burning stove, and a couple of stone built jetties.
In Camp Cove we landed to investigate the ‘Loneliest tree in the world’ (Guinness Book of Records designation) a Sitka spruce, planted in the early 1900s – reputedly by the then Governor General The Earl of Ranfurly – which, instead of having its characteristic conical shape, has been reduced to a spherical blob by generations of Met Staff on the island cutting the top out for their Christmas trees!
We motored out of Camp Cove toward Garden Cove and Venus Cove, passing the grave site of the unfortunate M.Duris of the 1874 French Transit of Venus Expedition who reputedly died from cholera. From Venus Cove we motored to Beeman Base, the NZ Met. Station at the foot of Beeman Hill.
At the base, all those going on the Col Lyall walk landed and set off up the 3.5km-4.00km boardwalk to Col Lyall. The weather remained as fine as could be, clear sky, warm sun and a light breeze. The botanists had a field day! Walking up Beeman Hill we passed through the Dracophyllum forest interspersed Coprosma and Myrcine with prickly shield fern and water ferns. In the open land just north of Beeman the orchids were plentiful, lichens abound, the megaherbs, for which these subantarctic islands are justifiably famous, were blooming. Just a couple of specimens of the fabulous, ultramarine blue Hebe benthami. All three daisy species of Pleurophyllum – (speciosum, criniferum, hookeri) were in profusion along the boardwalk along with two large carrot relatives Anisotome latifolia and A.antipoda. Maquarie Island cabbage Stilbocarpa polaris is everywhere. Approaching Col Lyall the two tussock species Poa litorosa and Chionochloa antarctica predominate. Among the tussocks at least three dozen Southern Royal Albatross were nesting, while mates and single birds were gamming or soaring spectacularly overhead.
From 19:30 people began to reluctantly wend their way, down from Col Lyall to the pick-up point at the Beeman Base wharf. The last Zodiac left the wharf at Beeman Base at 20:30.
At 21:30, the Mt. Honey long-walkers gathered at the waters edge below the slip opposite the ship and were collected by Nick. Mitch returned with a second Zodiac and the last of the group were speedily delivered to the ship, tired but elated after an energetic day. Back aboard, everybody gathered in the Globe Bar to compare notes and photographs.
It is probably worth noting that deer, mustelids (ferrets, stoats and weasels) and brushtail possums, all the scourge of mainland NZ, were never introduced to the subantarctic. However, pigs, goats, cattle, rabbits, sheep and cats were. Brown rats made it ashore at Campbell Island, and mice invaded Auckland, Enderby and the Antipodes Islands. In the process of eliminating these pests sheep were the first to go. Cattle were removed from Campbell Island in 1976. Goats were removed by 1991. The Enderby cattle and French blue rabbits were next to go, however 58 goats, some rabbits and shorthorn cattle were captured by the New Zealand Rare Breeds Conservation Society. Mice disappeared from Enderby Island eradicated during the rabbit poisoning programme. In 2001, a total of 120 tonnes of brodifacoum pellets was spread by helicopters over Campbell Island. By year 2003 not a rat was left and the recovery of local vegetation has been astonishing. Campbell Island is the largest island in the world, so far, to be cleared of rats.
Dinner was served at 21:00 in the dining rooms and, because it came late, staff assisted the chefs with the post dinner clean up. 
Photo credit: A. Fergus
Photo credit: M. Bartlett
Day 5: Sunday 7 January
Auckland Islands
It was a fine morning; those who missed the Col Lyall walk yesterday set off at 08:00 to land people at Beeman Base to complete a rapid walk to Col Lyall.
At 08:30 the others went by Zodiac to Tucker Cove to visit the Coastwatchers Base and adjacent Magnetic Observation hut.
En route back to the ship a quick diversion was made to Garden Cove for those who wished to see elephant seals among the tussocks. Weather was changing quickly with a cold wind blowing and intermittent rain showers. The Col Lyall walkers picked up.
At 11:15-30 all Zodiacs were aboard and secured for sea. After lunch at 13:00 we departed Perseverance Harbour en route for the Auckland Islands. The sea was rough.
There was a lecture by Sarah at 13:30 titled ‘Stories of subantarctic seabird science’.
At 15:30 Jessie opened up the Sea Shop in the port side dining room for those wanting souvenirs, warm clothing, T shirts, books and fridge magnets.
We joined Alex in the lecture room at 17:00 for his talk on ‘The flora of Australasian Islands’, a comprehensive and fascinating lecture on a topic we do not often think about.
At 18:00 the Globe Bar opened and was very well patronised. Dinner was at 19:00, Ed and Lance produced yet another culinary masterpiece in increasingly rolling conditions.
Photo credit: S. Gutowsky
Photo credit: S. Gutowsky
Day 6: Monday 8 January
Carnley Harbour – Auckland Islands
The Spirit of Enderby entered Carnley Harbour early this morning and by 07:15 we were approaching Tagua Bay, the site of the Coastwatcher No.2 Hut and Lookout. At 07:45 we dropped anchor and, in the relative silence that followed, could hear Bellbird song from the ship.
As 08:30 all ashore, life jackets were placed in the bins and Alex led off toward the lookout. As soon as we left the beach the botanists were having a field day. There were so many species of orchids to be seen and Alison collected lichen samples the length of the track. The derelict Coastwatcher No.2 hut is a forlorn sight. The only part of it to have retained some integrity is the kitchen, where original canisters of items such as rolled oats and tapioca sit on the shelves opposite the wood/coal burning range. The rest of the structure is just a floor-less, sea of de-laminating plywood. Interestingly, all the window frames and the frames of each section of the walls which were bolted together are cedar and, by and large, in good condition.The views, north and south, from the top of the track were spectacular and the conditions so clear that the Erlangen Clearing at the north end of the harbour, past Figure of Eight Island, was visible to the naked eye. The well maintained Lookout hut is still in good condition. As elsewhere, the Rata was in full bloom and just beautiful. By 10:35 we were heading down to the landing and within 25 minutes all were aboard. Captain Dimitry lifted the anchor and we cleared Carnley Harbour at about 12:15. A course was set for for Musgrave Inlet about 60 minutes steaming north. The weather remains freakishly good with clear skies, a ring around the sun and very high cirrus clouds.
We joined Alex in the lecture room at 12:10 for an overview of the planned activities for the day ahead.
After lunch we joined Martin in the lecture room to hear his lecture ‘Marine Mammals and Man’. The lecture concluded with a description of the enormous damage to world whale populations by the massive, lawless, Soviet whaling fleets during the period 1950-1986 and provided a clear reason why it is taking so long for some stocks to recover.
Five Zodiacs were launched for the Zodiac cruise at 15:15 around Musgrave Inlet. We headed off toward the northern cliffs close to the entrance to the Inlet. There we saw beautiful Light-mantled Sooty Albatrosses, one of which was sitting on a large chick that popped its head up for perfect photographs. Along the rocky shore Rockhopper Penguins were plentiful. Red-billed Gulls and black backs (aka Dominican gulls) flew close to the cliffs. Bladder kelp (Macrocyctis sp) and bull kelp (Durvillea sp) was so prolific along the shore it often impeded the passage of the Zodiacs by wrapping around the outboard propellers. We saw what might be the southernmost tree fern (Cyathea davisii) in this part of the world. As we puttered along the coast it was very interesting to note the height of the Rata trees on the lee side of the coast. Their trunks were straighter and the trees were far taller than on the windward side. After negotiating a particularly thick patch of kelp we entered the ‘cave with a hole in the top’, one of the most spectacular sights in the Auckland Islands. There was too much swell running to enter the dark cave next to it so it was one boat at a time, but it was so worth the effort.
Back aboard the Spirit of Enderby at 17:10 the Zodiacs were secured for the trip north to Port Ross. Cloud and northerly wind was increasing.
After yet another superb dinner, topped off with Alison’s birthday cake, we made ready to visit the second most historic place in the Auckland Islands, the Hardwicke settlement in Erebus Cove. Four Zodiacs were launched and passengers ferried ashore. We visited the poignant grave site then strolled along the cobbled path to the Victoria Tree. The inscription carved into the sawn flat face reads, “HMCS (Her Majesty’s Colonial Ship) VICTORIA Norman (captain) In Search of Shipwrecked People Oct 13th, 1865”. The flax plants, which seem incongruous in this setting, were planted by Maori from the Chatham Islands in 1865.
At 20:15 we were all back aboard the ship. All Zodiacs were secured for the sea journey. We were underway for Bluff in an easy sea with moderate westerly swell.
Photo credit: S. Gutowsky
Photo credit: S. Gutowsky
Photo credit: S. Gutowsky
Day 7: Tuesday 9 January
At Sea
We enjoyed a long relaxing sleep, with breakfast at 08:30.
At 10:00 we gathered in the lecture room for Mitch Bartlett’s lecture on ‘The Cultural use of Flora and Customary Harvesting of Titi’.
Alex held a lecture at 12:00 on expedition cruising in the Russian Far East, he introduced passengers to the possibilitiesof cruising the coastline of such a vast area with a huge variety of fauna including indigenous animals and birds, both indigenous and migrants and the flora
After lunch at 13:00, we settled ship accounts with Jessie.
By 16:30 Spirit of Enderby was making good speed in superb conditions, about 2.5 hours off South Cape Stewart Island
At 17:00 there was an expedition recap and disembarkation briefing. The slideshow prepared by Sarah, Mitch, Jessie and Alex was an enjoyable reminder of all the things we had seen, experienced and will continue to remember for years to come.
The bar opened at 18:00, with champagne and canapes followed by dinner at 19:00, a spectacular five course extravaganza prepared by Ed and Lance of soup, salmon or lamb racks, delectable pudding followed by a cheeseboard ‘to die for’.
Sadly, we were informed that after about 12 years with Heritage Expeditions, Natalia, the Chief Stewardess who has been the ‘driving force’ in the dining room, delivering superb meals in all weathers with ‘apparent’ ease had to return to the Ukraine for family reasons at the end of this voyage, finishing this season on Spirit of Enderby sooner than expected. This maybe Natalia’s last voyage, we all hoped not. Alex gave a lovely speech, expressing all our thanks and presented Natalia with gifts including champagne and a Heritage soft penguin.
Day 8: Wednesday 10 January
Bluff
Passengers were up early putting suitably tagged bags out in the passageways.
We were underway to the pilot station and picked up the pilot who brought the ship alongside at 07:00.
At 08:00 the truck and bus arrived. The truck was quickly loaded with the bags and set off for Invercargill. The customary group photograph was taken of the passengers and staff up on the ‘monkey bridge’. Soon after, having said farewell to the staff of the Forgotten Islands of the South Pacific expedition, all passengers were aboard the bus and headed to Invercargill, many would be reflecting on their New Zealand Subantarctic Islands experience and looking forward to reviewing the many photos taken.
With passengers having disembarked the staff began loading food for the 30 day voyage to the Ross Sea which was leaving Bluff the following day, collating information packs to go into all the cabins and setting about the myriad jobs that make the ship ready for sea.
