1968: Forgotten Islands of the South Pacific 04 Jan 2019
Day 1: 14 December
Invercargill, Port of Bluff
After assembling at the Kelvin Hotel in the early afternoon and meeting Expedition Guides Chris Collins and Alex Fergus, the bus for our transfer to Bluff left Invercargill at 14:45. It was only a short ride to the wharf where, after clearing security, we met Expedition Leader Judd Hill and the rest of his team.
Everyone was soon aboard our home for the next week, the Spirit of Enderby and settling in to their cabins.
We then had a couple of briefings and a little later, the crew released the lines and we sailed away. We had only a short distance to travel with the pilot and after we had cleared the harbour, he disembarked onto the pilot boat.
A little later the emergency siren sounded and everyone collected their lifejackets and headed to the lifeboats for the practical part of the safety drill. It was a cosy enough fit in the lifeboats without the crew and everyone hoped that this would be the only time they would have to enter these.
Many stayed out on deck as we headed westward traversing the Foveaux Strait with Stewart Island on our portside and the southern coast of South Island on the starboard. Although we could see cloud rolling in, visibility was pretty good and in the distance we could also make out some of the mountains of Fiordland.
A selection of birds was seen as we cruised westwards with good numbers of White-capped Albatross, several Cook’s Petrels, as well as Kelp Gulls and Cape Petrels. With little wind, most of the albatross were sitting on the water waiting for windier weather but occasionally one would take flight when the ship approached too close to them.
At 18:30 Expedition Leader Judd asked everyone to reassemble in the Lecture Theatre where he spoke about Zodiac operations and getting ashore.
Shortly after this final briefing of the day had concluded, the bar opened and an hour later we had the first of many excellent dinners prepared by our chefs Ed and Matt.
Day 2: 15 December
The Snares
During the night, the Spirit of Enderby continued heading towards The Snares and as Expedition Leader Judd has predicted the previous evening, the seas built considerably as the wind increased in strength. It was, therefore, a fitful night for many and when Judd’s early morning wakeup call came at 05:30 (to advise everyone that the ship was close to the islands) the wind was gusting at over 50 knots.
Despite the inclement conditions and early hour, many people got up to watch from the bridge and it was very apparent that launching the Zodiacs would be absolutely impossible. As a result, Judd asked the Captain to take the ship up the eastern side of the islands and looking carefully, it was possible to make out some of the Snares Crested Penguins on the shore. A few were also seen in the water but given the conditions, it was difficult to get a good look.
There were, however, plenty of other birds about with hundreds of the diminutive diving-petrels as well as both White-capped and Salvin’s Albatrosses.
After cruising up and down the eastern coastline, the captain set a course for the Auckland Islands and The Snares quickly disappeared behind us in the murk.
After breakfast, two lectures took place with the first of these being by Expedition Guide Lisle Gwynn who spoke about the birds of the Southern Ocean. Lisle described the species we could potentially encounter and the best ways to identify them.
Later in the morning, Kevin Hague, the Chief Executive of Forest and Bird, offered a lecture about Hookers Sea Lions and Yellow-eyed Penguins. Kevin told us that both these species had declined markedly in recent years with disease and fishing bycatch thought to be the biggest problem for the sea lions.
Once lunch had concluded, everyone came to the bar/library for the expedition staff to check their gear – we needed to ensure that everything was clean and there were no seeds on clothing or packs.
Outside the conditions had changed markedly since early morning and whilst the ship was still rolling due to the westerly swells, the clouds had largely dispersed and the sun had come out. There were an excellent selection of seabirds with the species seen including Antipodean Wandering Albatross, Gibson’s White-capped Albatross, Sooty Shearwater, Slender-billed Prion, Cape Petrel and White-chinned Petrel.
Photo credit: C. Collins
Day 3: 16 December
Enderby Island – Auckland Islands
After the lumpy conditions of the previous night, many went to bed experiencing somewhat similar conditions. However, by midnight the Spirit of Enderby had reached the sheltered waters of Port Ross and the rest of the night was tranquil with the ship bobbing gently at anchor a little to the south of Enderby Island.
Following a 06:30 breakfast, Expedition Leader Judd gathered everyone in the Lecture Theatre where he outlined the plans for the day and gave us an overview of the history of the island. Although it was now relatively pristine (there were no introduced mammals), the island had experienced an extended period of farming so there were still a number of introduced plants ashore.
Once everyone had collected their packed lunch, we were soon shuttled ashore and with only scattered clouds and a gentle breeze it promised to be a great day. There were two options, a longer walk led by Alex and a more leisurely option accompanied by Chris and Lisle and we split roughly equally between the two.
Those with Alex set off across the boardwalk and as they continued eastward along the northern side of the island saw several Light-mantled Sooty Albatrosses. There were five birds on nests and others wheeling around in the sky performing their spectacular synchronised flight. Continuing onwards, the group found the Flightless Teal on a small pond, enjoyed some great vistas at Derry Castle and also had to avoid some rather frisky Hookers Sea Lions. Although the fields of yellow Ross’ Lily were finishing up, these were still magnificent with the Giant Carrots (Anisotme latifolia) emerging into glorious heads of white, pink and purple. Likewise, the Macquarie Island Cabbage was in full bloom all around the coast including under the rata canopy which was dropping red stamens onto their palm-like leaves.
For those on the shorter excursion, this started with a walk across the grass and tussock to a small pond where Lisle and Chris hoped to find the endemic Auckland Island Flightless Teal. Before the group had even reached there, however, they found an Auckland Island Snipe in the grass. This species can be tricky to find but this individual was particularly obliging and everyone was able to see it before the group continued to the lake where, as hoped, a pair of teal performed extremely well as they swam around the small pond quietly quacking.
After an early lunch, the group headed across the boardwalk seeing several Southern Royal Albatrosses sweep across the tundra-like vegetation. Continuing onwards, we reached a spot where there were a couple of Light-mantled Sooty Albatrosses sitting on their earth and grass nests and some of the group had a short doze in the sun surrounded by Ross’ Lilies and the other colourful flowers of Enderby Island.
The two groups then reconvened at Sandy Bay at a spot overlooking the main haul-out of Hookers Sea Lions and many people sat for a considerable time watching the animals. It was like being in our own amazing wildlife documentary with something of interest going on almost all the time. There were mothers with three day old pups, as well as good numbers of huge males who were almost constantly fighting each other to establish dominance on the beach. Occasionally, a pup would get caught up amongst the fighting bulls and the youngster would disappear briefly underneath the males before remerging. It was extraordinary how tough these little ones were and that they did not suffer injuries on a more regular basis.
There was also a regular passage of Yellow-eyed Penguins going back and forth between the forest and the shore. Crossing the beach and the marauding sea lions was something the penguins clearly did not relish and those going out to fish would often spend several minutes watching and waiting before waddling as quickly as possible towards the sea. It was the same in the other direction with penguins hurrying inland across the beach as fast as their legs would allow them. Life on the beach for penguins cleared carried as many risks as it did for the new sea lion pups!!!
By late afternoon, it was time to return to the ship although our expert Zodiac drivers Judd and Lisle took everyone back on a somewhat scenic route so they could see the colonies of Auckland Island Cormorants and some more of the coastline of amazing Enderby Island.
Later, Matt and Ed served up another delicious dinner and after Bird Club and Plant Club hosted by Chris, Lisle and Alex everyone retired to bed knowing it had been a fantastic day with glorious weather and some amazing wildlife encounters.
Photo credit: A. Fergus
Photo credit: A. Fergus
Photo credit: C. Collins
Day 4: 17 December
Musgrave Inlet, Tagua Bay, Carnley Harbour – Auckland Islands
It was a pleasant night spent largely at anchor in Port Ross and when the morning wakeup call came, we were cruising down the eastern side of the Auckland Islands heading for Musgrave Inlet. After the rough seas we had experienced on the journey from The Snares to the Auckland Islands, the conditions were now positively benign with only the gentlest of swells.
After a 06:30 breakfast, loading of the Zodiacs began an hour later and we then set off to explore. The cruise started on the northern side of the bay and it soon became apparent that this was an excellent spot for Eastern Rockhopper Penguins with several hundred individuals scattered in small groups along the rocky coast. With flat seas, the drivers were able to get the Zodiacs close to the shore and there were great opportunities to photograph these birds.
For the botanists aboard, there were three megaherbs to admire with the Giant Carrot being closest to the penguins whilst higher up we could see Macquarie Island Cabbage and hanging off the basalt towers was the magnificent Giant Emperor Daisy (Pleurophyllum speciosum).
After enjoying the penguins, we crossed the inlet and entered what must at some point have been an impressive sea cave. The roof of this had, however, collapsed creating an amphitheatre bounded by twisted boughs of Southern Rata.
All too soon, it was time to return to the Spirit of Enderby and once the five Zodiacs were secured, we set off for Carnley Harbour.
It took a couple of hours to reach the entrance and with the pleasant conditions continuing many people watched from the bow. There were some great views of the island as we sailed down the eastern side and as we entered this natural anchorage, there were hundreds of Sooty Shearwaters. The wind was funnelling down the channel between the main Auckland Island and Adam’s Island and the birds were wheeling around.
After an early lunch, two Zodiacs were launched and we were soon ashore at Tagua Bay. After a scramble off the beach, initially the path was relatively flat and the botanists found several Spider Orchids. Although some of these were in flower, they were highly cryptic and being only a centimetre or so above the ground, were not easy to locate.
After climbing up a couple of hundred feet or so, we came to the remains of the buildings where the Coastwatchers had lived during the Second World War. Postings were for a year and the team’s role was to watch for enemy shipping as there was a fear that Carnley Harbour might be used to gather a fleet for a possible invasion of New Zealand or Australia. In the event, however, only one ship had been spotted and this was a passing Allied vessel!
Continuing onwards, we reached the lookout where the Coastwatchers had spent the daylight hours. We learnt that this hut was maintained by the Department of Conservation as a historical reminder of what had happened here.
By mid-afternoon we were back at the landing site and once everyone was aboard we set sail for Campbell Island. There was another biosecurity session in the bar/library managed by Alex, Chris and Lisle and for those needing some retail therapy, Hotel Manager Anna, opened the sea shop.
Outside, a nice selection of seabirds were seen with good numbers of Southern Royal and White-capped Albatrosses, however, the big surprise was a Northern Royal which made several passes of the ship. With Slender-billed Prions and Black-bellied and Grey-backed Storm-Petrels also making regular appearances and the occasional White-headed Petrel, it was a highly productive afternoon of pelagic sea birding.
After another great dinner, the evening concluded with a lecture by Alex Fergus about the plants of the Subantarctic Islands. Alex spoke about the flora of the various islands on our expedition and showed us photos of some of the species.
Photo credit: C. Collins
Photo credit: A. Fergus
Day 5: 18 December
Campbell Island
Although the swells were much better than earlier in our expedition, the sea remained somewhat lumpy as we continued in a south-westerly direction towards Campbell Island. By the early hours, however, conditions had moderated nicely and many got a decent sleep.
When the morning announcement came, we were anchored in the sheltered waters of Perseverance Harbour and after breakfast, Expedition Leader Judd gathered everyone in the Lecture Theatre where he outlined the plans for our time at Campbell Island. He anticipated we would have a full day of activities today and the following morning with several options available.
The first of these was a ‘long walk; led by Alex and Anna and those who chose this were the first to disembark with their Zodiac shuttles leaving shortly after 08:00. A little later, four boats were in the water and everyone else was able to join the Zodiac cruise and we set off to explore this substantial natural harbour.
With only a moderate wind and largely blue skies, it was a pleasant morning out on the water and shortly after we had set off, some Campbell Island Cormorants were found. With the other endemic, the Campbell Island Flightless Teal also quickly located, those wanting to see the key bird species on the island were quickly satisfied.
Cruising onwards, we explored several inlets and coves seeing Hookers Sea Lions, Southern Elephant Seals as well as more teal and cormorants. The big surprise, however, were three Bar-tailed Godwits which were feeding along the shore in Tucker Cover. This species is only occasionally found on Campbell Island and the birds had presumably overshot New Zealand on their southerly nonstop migration from Alaska and had been extremely fortunate to find landfall at Campbell Island.
Whilst the Zodiac cruise was progressing, the long walkers led by Alex and Anna set off from Tucker Cove. After watching several young Southern Elephant Seals near the landing site, the group crossed the cushion bog where there were good numbers of aggressive Antarctic Terns. They then headed up to the Col Saddle where they reached their highest of the day. Descending via the Northwest Bay cliffs, there were great views of Dent Island and Alex explained that this was where the endemic Flightless Teal had been rediscovered in 1975.
After lunch back on the ship, the ‘short walkers’ landed near the old DOC and Met Service Base and then followed the boardwalk up to Col Lyall. Several Campbell Island Snipe were seen by those at the front but the undoubted avian highlight was further up the boardwalk where the Southern Royal Albatross were nesting. A couple of the birds were immediately adjacent to the path and the views were absolutely stunning.
A couple of hundred metres before the end of the trail, we came to an amazing zone of megaherbs. There were five species in flower namely Ross’ Lily, Giant Carrot, Giant Button Daisy (Pleurophyllum criniferum), Giant Emperor Daisy and Macquarie Island Cabbage.
The long walkers carried on down to Capstan Cove where there were good numbers of Southern Elephant Seals and then continued onwards to the NW Hut for lunch in the sun. Regaining the lost altitude via the 1984 fence line, before walking around Mount Dumas and then heading down to Cave Rock, the location of the Coastwatchers’ panic station. From here, it was a short descent to Camp Cove where Lisle and Judd picked them up.
Whilst some went up Col Lyall, Lisle and Judd took others on a Zodiac cruise finding a young Southern Elephant Seal which had seemingly just been attacked by a Great White Shark. This unfortunate individual had died from a huge bite in its belly and it was possible to see teeth marks around the wound.
By 19:00 the last Zodiac had returned to the ship and after dinner and Bird Club many people headed off to bed after a spectacular day ashore.
Photo credit: A. Fergus
Day 6: 19 December
Campbell Island
For those who wanted a long walk with Alex, the day began early with a 05:30 breakfast and 45 minutes later, Lisle ferried the group across Perseverance Harbour to the south-east corner of Garden Cove. It was a battle through the scrub along the aptly named ‘Rollercoaster trail’ to the Honey-Filhol saddle where the path ended and everyone then had to climb the western slope of Mount Honey. There were a good selection of megaherbs as well as several Campbell Island Snipe and some nesting Southern Royal Albatrosses.
After two hours of almost constant climbing, the group clambered onto the rocky tops of Mount Honey where, unfortunately, there was no view due to the murky conditions. Following a celebratory biscuit supplied by Alex and admiring the alpine plants, the descent began.
For those who wanted a less energetic option, there were two choices with a return visit to Col Lyall led by Dr Rob or a Zodiac cruise with Judd, Lisle and Chris. The Zodiac cruise headed along the northern coast of Perseverance Harbour towards the entrance. With steady rain, initially it was not particularly pleasant but this gradually eased during the morning and some interesting wildlife was found with several nesting Light-mantled Sooty Albatrosses being the major highlight.
At the entrance to the harbour, there was a haul out of Hookers Sea Lions and the three Zodiacs then headed to the north following the coast. A small colony of Eastern Rockhopper Penguins was found but with large swells smashing onto the rocky coast, it was impossible to get close so we turned about, crossed the harbour entrance and then followed the southern shoreline back to the west and towards the ship.
There were more Light-mantled Sooty Albatrosses, Campbell Island Cormorants, Campbell Island Pipits plus some nice looks at New Zealand Fur Seal, however, after a couple of hours the decision was taken to change focus and we headed for Tucker Cove landing close to where the old homestead had been situated. The only evidence that this had ever existed were the rusting remains of the old stove.
After 20 minutes or so ashore, it was time to head back to the ship and after an early lunch, the anchor was lifted and we began our journey back towards Bluff.
Heading along the eastern coast of Campbell Island, we passed one of the larger Campbell Albatross colonies and although we were at a couple of miles offshore, the mass of nesting birds could clearly be made out.
With an afternoon at sea, two lectures were organised with Guest Lecture Kevin speaking about the work of Forest and Bird with this followed by a talk by Chris Collins about the cetaceans of the Southern Ocean.
Photo credit: C. Collins
Photo credit: C. Collins
Day 7: 20 December
At Sea towards Port of Bluff
It was another somewhat lumpy night out on the open sea as the Spirit of Enderby continued her journey northwards towards Bluff but by the time breakfast was announced the seas had moderated.
As this was our last full day of the expedition, Expedition Leader Judd invited everyone to join him in the Lecture Theatre shortly after breakfast when he outlined the plans for disembarking the following morning. This was followed a little later by a lecture by Chris Collins who spoke about the wildlife of the Russian Far East, an area he had visited multiple times with Heritage Expeditions. Chris told us about many of the amazing birds and animals which could be seen here including the critically endangered Spoon-billed Sandpiper as well as more widespread species such as Ribbon Seals, brown bears and Tufted Puffins.
The final activity of the morning was a talk by Alex Fergus entitled “Two Hundred Years of environmental change on Campbell Island”. Alex told us how the geological and natural history of the island, a summary of the human history and its associated human impacts with a focus on more recent efforts to remove pests and restore the island. He then described the 2010 Bicentennial Expedition to the island on which he had participated.
After lunch, it was time for everyone to settle their accounts and then this was followed at 17:00 by the expedition recap, which included the slideshow compiled by Lisle. This was a fantastic photographic summary of our amazing voyage.
Outside the sun shone and a good selection of pelagic seabirds were seen including Fairy Prions, Southern Royal Albatross, White-capped Albatross, Cape Petrel and White-chinned Petrel. A lucky few also glimpsed a whale but this rapidly disappeared before its identity could be confirmed.
Following the final bar hour of our expedition, Ed and Matt provided us with a delicious final dinner and by the time this had concluded we were anchored off Stewart Island. Our expedition had sadly almost reached its conclusion. 
Photo credit: C. Collins
Day 8: 21 December
Port of Bluff
Early this morning the ship arrived in Bluff. After breakfast, and farewells on the wharf, expeditioners boarded a coach to the airport or central Invercargill drop-off. Whilst the expedition has finished there will be many photos and memories of this Forgotten Islands adventure now to share with friends and families.
