1774: Ross Sea - In the Wake of Scott & Shackleton 11 Jan 2017
Day 1: 11th January
Invercargill
Passengers and staff gathered in Invercargill this afternoon at the Kelvin Hotel. This evening they met for a welcome group dinner and a briefing on the adventure they were about to begin.
Day 2: 12th January
Invercargill / Bluff (46⁰ S)
Following the welcome dinner the previous evening at the Kelvin Hotel the passengers assembled in the lobby for the morning activities. One could feel the excitement in the air as the voyage would soon begin.
Once everyone’s bags had passed inspection they were taken to the ship and placed in the specified cabins. The passengers then decided to either wander into town or visit the city Museum as it would be a couple of hours until lunchtime when we would gather back at the hotel. We were met at the Invercargill Museum by Lindsay, the curator of the Tuatara programme. He presented a very interesting film on the Tuatara, New Zealand’s most remarkable living creature. The film, together with Lindsay’s excellent commentary, explained the breeding program that has brought the dragon-like species back from the brink of extinction. Lindsay then brought us into the Tuatara living quarters and introduced us to ‘Henry’ and ‘Mildred’, youngsters at 117 and 86 years of age! He was most pleased to announce that after several decades of ‘courtship’ they now formed a happy couple. We then toured the Museum at leisure enjoying the various displays focusing on early life in New Zealand’s South Island.
We then returned to the hotel to enjoy our last meal on land for the next 30 days before being shuttled to the ship awaiting us at the port of Bluff. One final step was the verification of passports on board ship by the Customs Officer.
We departed Bluff at 6:00PM on Thursday. Weather was fine but a strong Westerly breeze brought on 3-4 metre swells. We experienced the strength of the Southern Ocean as we made our way to Stewart Island where a wonderful dinner would be served, The Spirit of Enderby continued to her evening destination, a quieter spot in the lee of Stewart Island, where we could enjoy the first of many superb dinners, tonight either salmon or lamb – Yum! After dinner we socialised in the bar with the Russian beer ‘Baltica’ a particular favourite. Gear was then stowed away and cabins organised for maximum efficiency. It had been a busy day and everyone was ready for a good night’s rest. Falling asleep to the steady sound of the ship’s generators we all looked forward to tomorrow’s visit to The Snares.
Day 3: 13th January
The Snares (48⁰ S)
The Spirit of Enderby travelled all night rolling in harmony with the strong seas. Many of us enjoyed being on the bridge and watching the ship make her way. By morning we could claim to have survived our first Southern Ocean experience. We woke to a fine day and within a couple of hours sailing made landfall at The Snares. This would be our first Zodiac experience. A briefing was held to describe the techniques for getting in and out of the Zodiacs. The use of special life jackets was explained and a drill was held for us to put on life jackets and climb into one of the lifeboats – the closest thing to the real thing in case of emergency. Later in the morning, in two separate shifts, the Zodiacs were deployed for a ‘cruise’ and we visited The Snares. The weather was beautiful, the seas were calm, and the unique Snares Crested Penguins were in fine form. Cameras were taking it all in. It was a wonderful start to our voyage and was a highlight of the day. In mid-afternoon our Expedition Leader, Rodney Russ gave a presentation on the Auckland Islands to prepare us for our next destination. Staff member Lisle, our bird expert, took us through the ‘quarantine’ process to ensure that no unwanted pests or seeds get a free ride to another island. This included a visit to the boot wash station and vacuuming any unwanted seeds, dirt etc. from our jackets and backpacks.
In the evening Lisle introduced us to his Birding Sessions where we identify as many different species that we have seen as possible. This included both birds and mammals. This will make us pay attention to our feathered friends and sea mammals as we visit the different islands and look on from the ship’s decks. In our first meeting we ticked 33 species off the list. It will get harder as time goes on. Sea birds are especially difficult to distinguish.
Our dinner tonight was a choice of Stewart Island blue cod or Enderby coq au vin. A tough decision but both were delicious. We were also lucky to be able to celebrate Sharon’s birthday. Ed and Max made her a scrumptious chocolate cake which served as dessert. All in all, it was another day in paradise.
Photo credit: L. Gwynn
Day 4: 14th January
Auckland Islands – Enderby Island (50⁰ S)
The Spirit of Enderby travelled steadily all night and by 5:00AM we had reached our next destination, Port Ross, a beautiful harbour of the Auckland Islands near Enderby Island. This safe harbour was discovered by James Clark Ross during his voyages to Antarctica in 1841-43. We realised something was different when we awoke. The ship was quiet and hardly moving. The 6:45AM wake-up call from Cruise Director, Faye reminded us that we had a big day ahead. This time the weather had taken a mild turn and there was some doubt as to what we could accomplish. After careful thought Rodney decided to give it a go and the Zodiacs were mustered for a trip to Sandy Bay on Enderby Island. Rodney gave a briefing on how best to enjoy the features of Enderby Island including the need to avoid Young Adult Male Sea Lions lest one be mistaken for a potential mate. With that caution in mind we all dressed for wet weather and soon we set foot on Enderby Island. Two groups were formed, one, to complete a circuit of the island and another, less demanding, to stay on the boardwalk and do a crossing of the island. Both walks were most interesting and conditions allowed everyone to feel better for the exercise and bracing fresh air. Different plants and Subantarctic flowers, including the beautiful red Rata were identified with the sighting of several White-capped Albatross either resting or on their nest. On our return to Sandy Bay we had ample opportunity to observe the many families of Hooker’s Sea Lion that had colonised the kilometre-long sandy beach. The fearsome huge bulls were carefully guarding their harem, sometimes numbering as many as a dozen females along with as many pups. Many of the younger ‘teenagers’ could be seen frolicking in the shallow offshore waters. It was a most unique experience to observe the social activity of these mammals in their natural habitat.
Photo credit: G. Tsidulko
Photo credit: L. Gwynn
Day 5: 15th January
Port Ross / Auckland Islands (50⁰ S)
We left the calm of Port Ross in the early morning at 3:00AM and soon were exposed to the larger ocean. Most of us slept very well as we adapted to the movement of the ship. At 6:30AM we received word that we would soon be passing through the spectacular entrance to historic Carnley Harbour. Many of us gathered on the bridge in order to get a better view. The sunrise to the east (out the stern of the ship) was beautiful with slivers of rain sparkling when transfixed by the sun’s rays.
The many seabirds gave us a display of their flying prowess and cameras were deployed to catch some of the amazing swooping and diving as they made maximum use of the breeze. We were then surprised by the sight of two yachts in the distance at the entrance to the North Arm of the bay. They had taken refuge and would be staying put for the day. The shore and general outline of the main island of the Auckland Islands framed the scene perfectly in all directions. Unfortunately our intention to make a landing was thwarted by the weather conditions. As a result we decided to make our way immediately towards Macquarie Island, about 500 miles south. Lisle gave an exciting and very instructive lecture at 9:15AM on seabird identification. This was very useful since the subtle differences between species, especially of albatross, are difficult to detect. By 2:30PM we were on our southerly course sailing through the ‘furious fifties’. Many stood swaying on the bridge to enjoy the full experience of the Southern Ocean. In mid-afternoon Lisle appeared with a Common Diving-Petrel that had unfortunately collided with the ship during the night. We all spent time examining this little member of the petrel family from a rare vantage point.
Day 6: 16th January
At sea and Carnley Harbour, Auckland Islands (51⁰ S)
We were awakened at 6:45AM by Faye. During the night the Spirit of Enderby, also known as the Professor Khromov (named after a prominent Russian meteorologist) had made progress towards Macquarie Island but we still had several hundred miles ahead of us. The seas were a bit heavy with up to 8 metre swells and 35 knot winds slowing us down somewhat. It was a good day to catch up on some rest or to perhaps make use of the extensive library on board. Our EL, Rodney Russ, advised that conditions would improve as we got closer to Macquarie Island possibly by tomorrow morning. In the meantime the afternoon also provided an opportunity to edit and organise our photos. The Chefs and Natalia’s kitchen staff again did a magnificent job and we enjoyed an Italian dish of spaghetti bolognaise for dinner.
Photo credit: L. Gwynn
Day 7: 17th January
At sea, 35 miles from Macquarie Island (54⁰ S)
We awoke to calmer waters this morning which had given everyone a good night’s sleep. We were now only 35 nautical miles from Macquarie Island and estimated our arrival at about 12:30PM New Zealand time, which is 10:30AM local time since Macquarie is Australian territory. After checking with the Australian base manager our EL, Rodney decided to have a go at landing on the west side of the island on Hasselbrough Bay rather than the more normal eastern side at Buckles Bay. It was an exciting ride but the Zodiac drivers showed their expertise and with on-shore assistance all went smoothly as the passengers were transported from the ship. The rewards of Macquarie Island soon became obvious. Cameras were immediately in evidence as we were surrounded by Gentoo Penguins and elephant seals and seabirds of every description. Chris, the Tasmanian Park Ranger met us with his three assistants, and gave a brief explanation on the operation of the Base. We then broke into three groups and began a leisurely walk along the beach. Soon we spied groups of King Penguins and then Rockhopper Penguins were seen in the distance. Scavenging Brown Skua gulls walked amidst the Gentoos looking for a quick meal but the penguins always managed to fend them off. Southern Giant Petrels were observed cavorting nearby while groups of elephant seals were eyeing us, their curiosity aroused. We gave them a wide berth as they yawned and snorted warnings not to get too close. Our guides took us through the isthmus and on up the boardwalk steps to the lookout above the base. This gave a fabulous view of the entire western beach with its numerous penguin colonies, probably Royals. In the southerly direction was the Base, and the hills on the other side of the isthmus. The base offered us wonderful hospitality in the form of tea and scones which was most welcome after our bracing walk amongst the amazing wildlife. There would certainly be much photographic organising to do later in the evening. After changing into more comfortable clothing, and joined by our Australian friends, Chris, Murray and Rowena, we sat down to an excellent dinner of blue cod or sirloin beef prepared by our wonderful Chefs, Ed and Max. After dinner Lisle called a meeting of the Birding Group where several more species were ticked off the list including the Black-Browed Albatross, the Gentoo Penguin and Wilson’s Storm-Petrel. An early night was then in order as we would continue our visit to this wonderful island in the morning.
Photo credit: L. Gwynn
Day 8: 18th January
Macquarie Island / Sandy Bay (54⁰ S)
How does one begin to describe the marvellous day we had at Sandy Bay on Macquarie Island’s east coast. We were awakened with the good news that the weather had turned in our favour and that landings would be possible at our chosen site. In addition the day would be calm, dry and the sun would shine. We were up at 6:45AM to make the most of it. A good omen was the sighting of some orcas from the bridge before breakfast. Our practice on the Zodiacs yesterday helped make us experts at Zodiac entrance and exit today. The calmer seas also helped and the expert driving of Rodney and Lisle enabled us all to start out on a good note. The scene we encountered on landing took our breath away. Such an assembly of Subantarctic wildlife was more than we could have ever imagined. There were penguins of every description, in groups of two or three or more strolling on the sand and carefully avoiding the elephant seals scattered along the beach. There were groups of ten or twenty having an impromptu conference, and masses of tens of thousands in the nearby rookery. Royal and King Penguins were present in great numbers but the Rockhopper and Gentoo species were also spotted. The frolicking of groups of Royal Penguins in the surf brought laughter and delight to all at the enjoyment they were having. Many of us chose to sit quietly and allow the animals to come to us as their curiosity was aroused. Elephant seals were plentiful and the mock aggression acted out by the young bulls was a subject of much attention as they reared their massive bodies and snorted and barked out their serious playful show of strength. Amongst all this were hundreds of petrels and skuas, terns, gulls and prions. We were able to wander at leisure and had several hours in which to soak in this magnificent spectacle of nature. The Aussie rangers from the base, Chris, Murray and Rowena, had joined us for the morning and were patient in answering our many questions. Their input added greatly to the value and enjoyment of our Macquarie Island experience. Alas, after four hours in this very special part of the Subantarctic we had to bid adieu as it was time to resume our journey south. Soon the Zodiacs had transported everyone back to the ship where a warm lunch was awaiting our whetted appetites.
Our EL then announced a special treat in that we would be sailing along the rarely seen western side of Macquarie Island on our continued voyage to the Antarctic. Many of us visited the bridge to view this side of the island, cameras to the ready. The clear skies and excellent visibility made it an experience to be savoured. The sighting from the bridge of a school of Pilot Whales drew a large crowd and set the tone for the next stage of our trip as we entered into the regions inhabited by many different whale species. We would have to process our already voluminous collection of photographs to make room for the equally exciting days ahead. Our journey to Cape Adare would cover another 1240 nautical miles of the Southern Ocean and our excitement about visiting the Antarctic became almost visible.
Photo credit: Y Mischina
Day 9: 19th January
At sea (56⁰ S) heading for Cape Adare
After a restful night we awoke to the sound of our ship’s engines powering our way south. After breakfast Rodney gave us a re-cap lecture on Macquarie Island. Together with the film describing the multi-year Pest Eradication Programme, these nicely completed our wonderful two day visit to this nature sanctuary. It was a great way to end the first stage of our tour of the Subantarctic Islands.
Today, and for the next three days, we will be making for Cape Adare in Antarctica. We have travelled a long way already but there is still much to be excited about during the weeks ahead. Cape Adare is where Carsten Borchgrevink’s ‘Southern Cross’ party spent the first winter on the Antarctic continent in 1899-1900. It is also host to the world’s largest colony of Adelie Penguins. We have not yet seen any of those cute ittle creatures and we are very much looking forward to our first sighting. This afternoon Rodney gave an introductory talk on Antarctica and the Ross Sea area. We were not far from the Antarctic Convergence where the cold Antarctic current meets the warmer water of the northern ocean. The air temperature will drop and everyone will have to change to cold weather clothing. Soon our breath will be visible. By tomorrow morning the difference will be noticeable. Lisle is eager to begin sighting the Antarctic bird and mammal species as are the many keen birders on board. Stephen is also about to begin his history lectures which will no doubt stir vigorous debate and prepare all aboard for their visits to the various historic sites within the Ross Sea region. With luck ice conditions will be kind and will allow access to many of them. Once again we have had a great day. There is so much more to come.
Day 10: 20th January
At sea (60⁰ S) heading for Cape Adare
As the ship ventured south through the night everyone enjoyed a good night of rest. The ‘furious fifties’ had given us a respite which was much appreciated. However we were aware that we would soon enter the ‘screaming sixties’, an infamous 600 mile band of the Southern Ocean. Today, January 20, 2017 is doubly important in Antarctic history. It is the centenary of Shackleton’s final rescue of his ‘Endurance’ expedition. One hundred years ago on January 20, 1917 the ‘Aurora’ party sailed from the Ross Sea, with Shackleton and the remaining members of his Ross Sea Support Party, north for New Zealand. The ship was under the command of Master John King Davis, perhaps the most capable of all Antarctic ship’s captains. The date also marks the 60th Anniversary of the opening of New Zealand’s Scott Base. The base was constructed to house Sir Edmund Hillary’s party of 23 men in support of the Commonwealth Trans-Antarctic Expedition led by British geologist Dr Vivian Fuchs. As we were in the ‘dead zone’ where no land is sighted for four days our activities were focused on our photo collections and observation from the bridge. Added to this of course were various lectures and films. The morning saw Stephen give his first lecture on ‘The Unveiling of Antarctica’. This lecture covered the early history of Antarctic exploration from the time of ‘terra Australis incognita’ to explorers Captain Cook, James Clark Ross and Wilkes, and Dumont d’Urville of France; finishing with the Challenger expedition of 1872-75.
Lunch today was a delicious seafood chowder served with fresh bread and a dessert of banana bread with caramel sauce – Scrumptious!
After lunch the passengers were issued their cold weather parkas as temperatures are due to begin dropping noticeably. We will be crossing the Antarctic convergence in a few hours which will have a significant effect on air temperatures. The afternoon activities consisted of Episode 1 of the film ‘The Last Place on Earth’ based on Roland Huntford’s book ‘Amundsen and Scott’. The day was capped off by an excellent lecture on ‘Expedition Photography’ by our resident photography guru, Lisle. He will be very busy sorting out photography issues before we arrive in the Antarctic and our souvenir photos will benefit greatly as a result. Our Chefs then worked their magic once more and we all enjoyed a fabulous dinner of lamb or turkey.
Day 11: 21st January
At sea (63⁰ S) heading toward Cape Adare
Temperatures were dropping steadily now as the ship made her way south battling a strong headwind. This slowed her forward speed to less than ten knots. However, we still expected to reach Cape Adare in good time. The wind was forecast to shift in our favour early tomorrow morning and the way was reasonably clear of ice. As we are still at sea today will be occupied with activities aboard ship. These included a stirring lecture by our historian Stephen Hicks on ‘The Heroic Age of Antarctic Exploration’. Midway through the lecture an exciting announcement was made that our first iceberg had been sighted. It was still a couple of hours in the distance, about 18 miles, so we were able to finish the lecture. Immediately afterward the bridge was awash with passengers and cameras straining their eyes into the misty horizon for a glimpse of the icy giant. Eventually a form could be made out as the berg came into full view and passed quietly by a few kilometres on our port (left) side. It was a potent reminder of the environment that lay ahead. Needless to say many photographs were taken and a buzz of anticipation filled the air. The Iceberg Contest and prize was won by Sharon who not only predicted the time and date of its appearance but also sighted it before anyone else!
After lunch many of us viewed Episode 2 of The Last Place on Earth. This series is gaining interest as Scott completes the selection of men for his party and the ‘Terra Nova’ sets sail for the Antarctic. The remaining 4 episodes will be filled with drama no doubt and will fuel much debate on the merits of both Scott and Amundsen. After a rest and for some, a cup of tea, Grigory our mammal expert, gave a most informative talk on his favourite topic, Caetaceans (Whales & Dolphins). Everyone gained much knowledge about these amazing lords of the sea. With luck we would encounter a few of these species during the coming days of our journey, possibly ‘Killer’ Whales (Orcas) and perhaps Humpback Whales and Minke Whales. If Grigory gets his wish we might even sight a Blue Whale, the largest creature to ever inhabit our planet. To finish off this busy day Yulia, our Assistant Cruise Director, gave a lecture on Russian 101. Many of us yearn to communicate with members of our crew and housekeeping staff. Now that we know the basic greetings and courtesy phrases, this will become possible – with practice of course.
One of the last events of the day was the placing of scientific buoys on the Southern Ocean. These will transmit environmental data for research studies from various points as they drift over their lifetimes.
The day’s formal activity having ended many retired to read up on the history of the Ross Sea or to ascend to the bridge to implement the photography tips from Lisle’s lecture. There are beautiful, effortless bird-ballet movements outside the bridge that would make striking photographic subjects – now, if we can only catch them in motion, swooping and diving as they do!
Day 12: 22nd January
At sea (66⁰ S) bound for Cape Adare
Temp -1⁰ C – Seas calm
This morning we awoke to an amazing sight as icebergs could be seen in every direction, of all shapes and sizes. At 8:33AM an event of great significance occurred when the Spirit of Enderby crossed the Antarctic Circle at 66⁰ 34”. A rousing cheer was raised on the bridge and several hardy souls were poised forward on the bow in order to gain priority. The Antarctic Circle defines the northern limit of the sun’s ability to shine for twenty-four hours. This will now be our situation and we must remember to go to bed even though we may be tempted to go on for a few more hours! We then gathered in the bar to enjoy a cup of mulled wine while our Expedition Leader took everyone through the traditional ceremony of the Antarctic Circle Pledge. This is our personal commitment that we will advocate for the protection of the precious natural environment of the Antarctic in our lives now and following this expedition. We were then invested with the ‘Mark of the Penguin’ on our foreheads as a symbol of our new status.
Shortly afterward an advisory was called out over the ship’s radio “Whales have been sighted from the bridge!” Two different whale sightings occurred, one a Humpback Whale and the other, a Minke Whale. The excitement rose and cameras were deployed along the ship’s starboard side. This unforgettable event was then followed by a more relaxing hour as Stephen presented his third lecture on the history of Antarctic exploration – a presentation on Robert Falcon Scott’s first expedition on the ship ‘Discovery’. Each of his lectures builds on the preceding one while the series will cover expeditions up to and including the Crossing of Antarctica in 1955-58. Many icebergs floated past as our ship progressed on its journey south, with Captain Dimitri skilfully guiding the ship safely through the spectacular scenery. At 1:30PM we had 280 nautical miles left to reach Cape Adare and our arrival time on the Antarctic continent was estimated at approximately noon tomorrow if the favourable weather conditions continue to hold.
Our afternoon activities began with the chance to get some ‘shopping therapy’. The ship ‘shop’ opened for a couple of hours where passengers could purchase a wide variety of souvenirs of their journey. These included fine merino wool shirts, a wonderful collection of Antarctic and wildlife based books, and postcards, maps and posters. There will be many lucky recipients of gifts from Heritage Expeditions’ Spirit of Enderby once our passengers have returned to their home base. We then retired to the lecture room and enjoyed Episode three of the film based on Huntford’s book, Scott and Amundsen. Opinions are starting to be cast in stone as to which leader was the most capable or was Scott simply ‘unlucky’?
We finished the day with a ‘quarantine’ check as we are entering the Antarctic Treaty region and plan to land on the continent tomorrow. It is important that exotic flora or fauna do not get inadvertently transported into the Antarctic from external sources. All in all, it was another very full and worthwhile day of sailing through the ‘dead zone’ of the ‘screaming sixties’. We look forward tomorrow to entering the ‘silent seventies’ while tonight there will certainly be photographers up on the bridge taking advantage of the long days.
Photo credit: G. Tsidulko
Day 13: 23rd January
At sea (72⁰ S) 58 miles out from Cape Adare
The day rose clear and cold. Antarctic Snow Petrels were swooping and diving, skimming the ocean swell about the ship. Seas were moderate and it had been a night of smooth sailing. The plan for today is to land on Ridley Beach at Cape Adare, weather and ice permitting. Mother Nature always has the final call in these endeavours. We will see the state of local conditions as we approach the beach before we know if a landing will be possible. This will be at about 11:30AM. Many passengers spent time on the bridge and up higher on the ‘monkey deck’ taking in the full view as the continent began to reveal itself through the mist. A spectacular vision awaited. The horizon was a solid mass of high peaked snow-covered mountains framed by the blue sky above and the frothy white-capped Southern Ocean below – Magnificent! Mt Sabine and Mt Minto were particularly outstanding with their 3700 metre plus height. We were now less than 20 miles from Cape Adare. A pod of Beaked Whales appeared on our port bow near the ship but disappeared quickly. We were treated to a beautiful blue-sky day with sunlight that brought out the best of the incredible scenery. As we made our way to Cape Adare we gazed in wonder at the ice floes that surrounded our ship and then at the massive ‘bergs’ of Iceberg Alley seemingly in repose against the skyline of Cape Adare and the mountains of the continental interior behind. Many braved the bitter wind standing at the bow or on the top deck to get the best vantage point. With 24 hour daylight there will be much opportunity for outstanding and unique photography. While on the bridge we observed Adelie Penguins passing by on their icy platforms or even leaping out of the water as they swam by. Minke Whales made several appearances and a variety of petrels and other Antarctic species flew about the ship. There were two sightings of seals basking in the sun’s rays as they lay each on their private floating bed of brash ice. Alas, a landing at Cape Adare was not possible due to the accumulation of ice around the landing site of Ridley Beach.
However, as we will be returning via this route in a few days another opportunity may present itself. Our alternate plan will be to continue into the Ross Sea to examine the Possession Islands for a possible landing. These were first discovered by James Clark Ross in 1842 and are a site of considerable historic interest. There is also a large colony of Adelie Penguins on the main island. They are approximately four hours away and it may be necessary for us to utilise the perpetual daylight to effect a landing and we were advised to be prepared should that be the case. Before that we enjoyed a hearty dinner to prime us with some energy.
Conditions were near perfect for a Zodiac cruise. The islands and icebergs around us were stunning in the twilight. The peaks of the Admiralty Range of the Trans-Antarctic Mountains were visible in the distance. At 8:30PM the first group of passengers was taken out for an hour’s cruise around the shores of Possession Island. The scene was magical as masses of Adelie Penguins socialised on the shores and up into the furthest heights hundreds of feet up the cliff-tops! Their comrades gave us a continual display of their swimming prowess and antics, ‘porpoising’ all around us and making a mockery of our attempts to photograph them in the air. It seemed too soon that we were heading back to the ship not realising that it was getting near 10:00PM as the 24 hour daylight regime had arrived. That would take some getting used to! The outing was a wonderful ending to a day of amazing vistas as each new view seemed to surpass the last and our voyage was not yet at its mid-point!
Photo credit: L. Gwynn
Photo credit: L. Gwynn
Day 14: 24th January
Ross Sea, Cape Hallett (73⁰ S)
We awoke (if we hadn’t spent the night admiring the scenery from the bridge) at 6:30AM to an announcement by our EL that it was a glorious morning and that we were now entering Edisto Bay and heading for Cape Hallett. Soon many of us were out on deck enjoying bright sunshine and perfectly clear air. In a few moments the ship was gliding through the ice floes, gently pushing them aside. Patterns of fresh new ice that had formed overnight decorated the clear cold water. Majestic Mt Herschel glinted on the shoreline with a glacier leading to the Polar Plateau nearby. It was an excellent start to our day and we had not even eaten breakfast! On closer inspection the ice around Cape Hallett prevented a landing at the site of the International Geophysical Year (IGY) joint New Zealand/USA base of 1956-1973 but the stunning views more than satisfied our interest. On exiting the bay we again headed south and made for Coulman Island about five hours away. Our ship’s Captain Dimitri and the Expedition Leader then decided to take a route that had never been open previously. This was to sail through the passage between Coulman Island and the continent rather than pass by the island’s eastern side. We spent the day admiring the placid waters reflecting the island’s cliff-face, strewn with ice in all shapes and sizes. Some of the floes carried lone Adelie Penguins. In one case a Leopard Seal was spotted having a lounge in the sun. The ship pushed them aside as we stood outside on the decks and at the bow. One hardy fellow, young Matt, our Heritage Expeditions’ Enderby Trust scholarship winner, wore shorts and jandals until he went back to his cabin only to re-emerge having put on a pair of socks! It was a stunning day of sunshine and calm waters that turned the Ross Sea into an Antarctic wonderland. We also learned that in the Antarctic, distances are much further than they seem. The scale of the continent is such that the experience of our warmer climes makes us ill-suited to judge distances as it seemed to take forever to reach and pass Coulman Island. On the west coast we could see the opening to the mighty Tucker Glacier that leads up onto the Polar Plateau at 10,000 ft. of elevation. Two other glaciers fed their ice to the sea further south, the Mariner Glacier and the Borchgrevink Glacier that fittingly exited into Lady Newnes Bay named after the patron and sponsor of the first party to winter over on the continent at Cape Adare. Eventually, we were back into the ice pack which took another hour to traverse before we were back in open water.
Just after dinner an announcement was made that a rare Emperor Penguin had been sighted on a passing floe. We quickly gathered our cameras and were out on deck recording this rare opportunity to see one of nature’s most fascinating creatures.
Our target destination is Terra Nova Bay, about 150 miles distant, where we hope to make a landing tomorrow. We expect to arrive at about mid-day. This bay is the site of three Antarctic research bases, those of South Korea, Italy and Germany (Gondwana). Having had a big day from our early morning start at Cape Hallett we were ready for a good night’s rest, looking forward to what tomorrow would bring.
Photo credit: L. Gwynn
Day 15: 25th January
Terra Nova Bay / Inexpressible Island (75⁰ S)
The day dawned clear, bright and crisp but soon the sun would warm the air. The announcement came that conditions were ideal for a landing at the island made famous by Robert Falcon Scott’s ‘Northern Party’. The party, led by Captain Victor Campbell, was initially Scott’s Eastern Party and was sent to explore the area around the Bay of Whales and King Edward VII Land. However, on arrival they found that Norwegian, Roald Amundsen, had already placed his base ‘Framheim’ at that location. Although Amundsen invited Campbell to join him there, Campbell felt uncomfortable and declined. On returning to Cape Evans and reporting this turn of events to Scott he was given a new assignment to explore the areas further north on the western side of the Ross Sea near Cape Adare. His party became stranded when the relief ship Terra Nova was unable to reach them and they had to spend another winter in an ice cave on Inexpressible Island (re-named after their ordeal) surviving on the seals and penguins that they could kill. On emerging from the cave in November 1912, and in very poor health, they then walked over 200 miles from Inexpressible Island to Cape Evans. It was a miracle that any of them survived. The site of the ice cave is now marked by a humble plaque commemorating their incredible experience. On arrival Rodney led us to the site of the original ice cave. The island is composed mainly of granite with boulders of all shapes and sizes strewn across the landscape. There is a large Adelie Penguin rookery nearby and the antics of the penguins provided entertainment for all. One had to beware of the nests of the skua gulls as they are very protective and more than once they let us know if we were getting too close. There were also several Weddell Seals ashore lounging on the rocks. They seem not to mind sleeping on the hard rocky shore and patiently allowed us to take copious photographs. One of the day’s highlights came during the second visit in the afternoon with the discovery of two Emperor Penguins holding court far above the water line. Many spent over an hour admiring their calm demeanor as they stood calmly for our close inspection. The hills of Inexpressible Island provided ample terrain for those with a tramping inclination. Both the morning and afternoon groups gave it their best and covered many kilometres at various altitudes on the island. The view of the Priestley and Reeves Glacier’s exit to the Ross Sea was spectacular and will be a fond memory etched into the minds of those who ventured to climb the ridge.
We then returned to the ship having had a great day of exercise and enjoyed a well-earned meal of rib-eye steak or monkfish. With appetites satisfied and muscles spent, a sound sleep was now the priority. The ship was anchored in the bay for the night and tomorrow would find us ready to continue our voyage in the majesty of Antarctica.
Photo credit: G. Tsidulko
Day 16: 26th January
Terra Nova Bay / Gerlache Inlet (75⁰ S)
Once again we awoke to a clear calm blue-bird day. Some of us felt the effects of yesterday’s exhilarating walks on Inexpressible Island but no doubt we will find new energy and be keen for today’s activities. There are two bases at this location, the Korean base, and the nearby German summer base, Gondwana, while the Italian base is a short way to the southern end of the bay.
We were called to the starboard gangplank at 9:30AM and the Zodiacs were ready to ferry us to our landing spot on the beach at Gerlache Inlet. Sea conditions were benign and everyone made an easy landing which, for most of us, also meant setting foot for the first time on the Antarctic continent! This was one of the most significant moments of our voyage. It was a warm day by Antarctic standards and we broke into two main groups, one a smaller party that went for an extended walk up a distant hill while the remainder were encouraged to go for a free-spirited wander. The highlights other than the striking natural scenery included the tidy German Antarctic base and, just over the rise to the north, the much larger Korean base. One had to be careful not to approach too closely to any of the numerous skua nesting sites as mom and dad skua were keeping a close watch for intruders and would swoop menacingly with a sharp ‘squawk’ at anyone who got too close. We quickly learned to identify their warning signs, a wing display and then the shrieking calls. We enjoyed the almost balmy morning weather but the Zodiacs were due at 12:30PM since there was a possibility of visiting the Italian base in the afternoon. This was confirmed as we ate lunch and excitement was again in the air.
At 2:45 and 3:15PM two groups would be taken to the base named ‘Mario Zucchelli’ after the foremost Italian Antarctic scientist and first Director of the base when it was established in 1986. It lies at 74⁰ 41” S. We were met by three base personnel, Marco, a twenty year veteran and the base Director, Matthew, the base medical officer, and Paolo, the IT Manager. They showed us the hospitality for which they are famous and guided us on a very interesting walk throughout the base premises. Afterwards we were served coffee and biscuits and had the chance to chat with the base scientists and staff. Italy also joint operates an inland base. We then posed for photographs with our hosts which will be a reminder of their warm welcome.
Finally we returned to the ship and retired to the bar before enjoying a delicious dinner prepared by our Chefs Ed and Max. A special treat this evening was the celebration of Elizabeth’s birthday with a song led by the HE staff in fine voice. It also meant that we all shared in a delicious birthday cake. Yum!
The ship then departed southward immediately for our next destination, Franklin Island. Another highlight awaited as we soon passed, on our starboard side, a famous geographical feature, the Drygalski Ice Tongue. This massive tongue of ice extends 70km into the Ross Sea and is 40km wide – what a fitting way to top off another superb day in the Antarctic!
Day 17: 27th January
Ross Sea / Franklin Island (76⁰)
The ship dropped anchor at Franklin Island in the early morning hours after a smooth journey south. The island takes its name from Sir John Franklin, governor of Tasmania who was a friend of James Clark Ross, who discovered the Ross Sea in 1842. The conditions were ideal for a landing and our EL, Rodney declared it a go with an early 6:00AM wake-up call. After a briefing on the site features the excitement mounted quickly for our visit. There is a huge Adelie Penguin colony on the island which will be the main subject of interest. We were advised to be especially careful not to disturb the birds as they are in the midst of raising and feeding their chicks. The Zodiacs leave at 8:00AM. Dress warmly!
After landing with waterproof boots and pants as suggested we made our way around the shore to the beach and bins where we deposited our life jackets. Then it was time to get out the cameras and go for a wander into the most amazing penguin colony. As far as the eye could see there were Adelie Penguins in all stages of development but mostly in the ‘raising a family’ stage. The fluffy little creatures with ravenous appetites were either sleeping contentedly or chasing their mothers (or any adult penguin who would listen) for a feed. Everyone took their own approach to explore this amazing gathering of life in the wild. We spent several hours in a relaxed and close-up examination of the behavioural traits of these wonderful creatures.
There were several Weddell seals resting among the throng as if nothing else mattered. They posed patiently for photographs. Skua gulls flew continuously over the throng looking for any opportunities for a feed. It was nature at its purest and was a lot to take in. But after returning to the ship a few hours later we all realised what a privilege it had been to live such an exhilarating experience. We were ready for lunch and a restful afternoon ourselves. Episode 4 of The Last Place on Earth took us a bit further with the story of the Scott-Amundsen 1911-12 race to the pole. Meanwhile the ship was heading still further south towards Ross Island.
Later in the evening we arrived within sight of the southern sentinels of the continent, Mt Erebus and Mt Terror, so named by Ross after his two sturdy ships. Very soon we could make out Cape Crozier, named after the commander of the HMS Terror, and the impenetrable ice ‘Barrier’ that blocked Ross from continuing further south, as it did us today. It was an awesome sight to watch the turbulent Ross Sea beating up against the mighty Ross Ice Shelf as it has done for centuries with none the victor. Since it was getting late despite the bright sky many decided to catch up on sleep and prepare for what the next day would bring. It had been full-on since 6:00AM and it was a most rewarding day indeed.
Photo credit: G. Tsidulko
Day 18: 28th January
The Barrier (77⁰ 30’ S)
Our journey south ended at 77⁰ 30’ S. thwarted by the sea ice that had refused to leave McMurdo Sound. This was a very unusual ice condition for this time of year confirming yet again that Mother Nature will have her way. We then turned and began heading north for Cape Adare where we hoped to make a landing, ice and surf permitting, sometime over the next 48 hours. The swell was a bit heavy today so lectures were postponed in the interest of safety and comfort. These would be delivered once the swell abates.
Today was spent catching up on our rest, our reading, our diaries, or organizing our many photos. Of course it was always possible to climb the decks to possibly get that one special picture of Antarctica or its wildlife. There was even an intensive game of 3D-scrabble underway in the bar. Other games and challenging puzzles were also occupying the passengers. Here’s to good conditions as we expect to reach Cape Adare tomorrow afternoon.
Photo credit: Y. Mischina
Photo credit: G. Tsidulko
Day 19: 29th January
At sea and heading for Cape Adare (75⁰ S)
We had a good night’s rest and continued to make our way north. The seas were calm and today’s programme included two lectures and Episode 5 of the film ‘The Last Place on Earth’ based on Roland Huntford’s book ‘Scott and Amundsen’. In the morning Rodney gave a most interesting talk on the Antarctic Treaty System as it relates to tourism in the Antarctic. He described the 12 articles that make up the treaty and then outlined how these help (or not) with the regulation of Antarctic tourism. He also gave us his view of what the future may hold in this growing activity. Many questions and much discussion ensued. This was followed by our polar historian Stephen’s fourth lecture in his history of Antarctic exploration series and covered Ernest Shackleton’s ‘Nimrod’ expedition of 1907-09 which earned Shackleton a knighthood as well as the Royal Geographic Society’s special Gold Medal. Our visit to within a stone’s throw of Mt Erebus, our sighting of the Drygalski Ice Tongue and the ‘Barrier’ itself all resonated with the expedition’s major accomplishments. During the afternoon we viewed Episode 5 of The Last Place on Earth as Scott and Amundsen make their way onto the polar plateau. The excitement builds as the drama unfolds! Our day was far from over however.
After dinner our EL announced that we were approaching Cape Adare and we would examine it to see if a landing would be possible. When we went up to the bridge it was a scene from nature at its most primitive and powerful. We had returned to Antarctica’s ‘Iceberg Alley’. The ship was carefully threading its way through a maze of massive icebergs which were slowly receding into the mist behind us. The winds were blowing at 30-40 knots. Gazing into the ocean mist ahead we could see more icebergs floating in the storm tossed sea. It was a scene from some primeval era of the planet. With great caution born of his many years of experience the captain steered the ship around the headland and soon we found ourselves in relatively calm waters, free of ice, and out of the severe winds. We had entered Robertson Bay. After a few minutes we came into view of historic Ridley beach where Carsten Borchgrevink and his party spent the first Antarctic winter night. The bridge was packed with onlookers, cameras and binoculars close at hand. Soon the little wooden hut became visible to the naked eye dwarfed by the mountainous background. A major objective of our journey had been achieved. It now remained for our expedition team to determine if a landing was possible. Our EL decided that as the daylight was beginning to wane it would be best to wait until morning before making a final call as to what it would be possible to do safely and with most benefit to our passengers. With that we retired to our cabins for a good night’s rest within the more quiet and placid confines of Robertson Bay.
Day 20: 30th January
Robertson Bay and Cape Adare (71⁰ S)
Our wake-up call came early as the EL advised of sunshine and a possible landing on Ridley Beach. The one obstacle was a new Antarctic phenomenon for us to experience – a fierce katabatic wind that was blowing down off the mountainous terrain of Cape Adare. As we struggled our way around the outer deck we felt a definite rise in the air temperature from yesterday evening bringing with it the more familiar aroma being swept off the huge Adelie Penguin colony residing on the beach. This is the largest colony of its kind with a population estimated at over 1,000,000 residents. There in the middle of it all was Borchgrevink’s hut of 1899, shrunk to a tiny edifice amidst the grandeur of the Cape Adare geography. The abatement of the katabatic wind which we were awaiting was not to be but the magnificent scenery of the Cape, the hut and the great mountains such as Mt Minto and Mt Adam to the west, both well over 10,000 ft., was more than sufficient compensation.
With that, the Spirit of Enderby set her course to the north-west making for the Balleny Islands one of the most remote areas on the planet. These promise to offer a variety of wildlife such as Chinstrap Penguins, whales and seals in addition to re-introducing us to the albatross family. We expect to arrive there by noon tomorrow. In the meantime, Stephen gave us his history lecture #5 ‘Scott and Amundsen - The Race to the Pole’. This lecture, coming in conjunction with the film ‘The Last Place on Earth’ which relates the same expedition, gave added grist to the mill for debating the merits of the two very different strategies taken by the leaders as they sought polar glory.
In the afternoon we learned all about the newly agreed Marine Protected Area (MPA) for the Ross Sea. Grigory was closely involved with this successful effort to declare over 1.2m sq. km. as subject to regulation under the CCAMLR convention. We can only hope that species such as the Antarctic Tooth-fish and krill, and indirectly whales, will benefit from this and similar agreements.
Towards the end of the afternoon we had reached latitude 71⁰ S. as we headed north to the Balleny Islands. Our visit there tomorrow holds much promise as the islands are a source of extraordinary bio-diversity.
Day 21: 31st January
At sea making for the Balleny Islands (69⁰ S)
Last night and this morning we continued making our way toward the Balleny Islands, a series of islands inside the Antarctic Treaty region. Before noon we were in sight of Sturge Island, the first of the islands, at 66⁰ S. We had re-entered the ‘screaming sixties’ and the seas and ice confirmed we were indeed in the Antarctic. But once we were protected from the easterly winds the sea calmed and amazingly the low cloud lifted and we were treated to magnificent views of the island’s ice protected shoreline, interrupted by impressive glaciers, piedmonts and ice tongues. The entire length of the island was covered by a white blanket of wispy cloud with azure blue patches decorating the sky overhead only just hiding the peak of Mt Russell, its highest point. As we left the island behind Lisle spotted two Humpback Whales on the port side. Many of us quickly ascended to the bridge and outer decks where we were able to photograph the whales blowing and cavorting in the ocean waters below. The afternoon also saw the concluding episode of ‘The Last Place on Earth’. The finale, despite being well known, left many feeling sympathy not only for Scott but also for Amundsen. Did Scott, by his death, come out as the winner in this tragic contest of the heroic age?
Towards the latter part of the afternoon we came upon three unique islands of the Balleny group. These were Buckles, Sabrina and Chin-Strap islands. Beautiful rock formations and brilliant icebergs with the sunshine highlighting the scene captured everyone’s attention with the monkey deck a favourite vantage point. A Zodiac cruise will require the seas and wind to relent somewhat so the EL made the decision to stand by and see what the morning would bring. An evening within sight of these islands will top off what has been a wonderful day which included several whale sightings and the return of the albatross. We would sleep well tonight.
Photo credit: L. Gwynn
Day 22: 1st February
Balleny Islands – Sabrina, Buckles and Chinstrap (67⁰)
We slept well in the lee of Buckle Island and awoke to the first day of February. Our hopes to launch a Zodiac cruise were set aside as, to coin a phrase, it was a ‘swelly’ morning, making it too risky to use them to gain the shore. We trained our eyes and binoculars on Sabrina Island and could clearly see the large penguin colony that inhabited even the highest ridges. The ability of penguins to climb steep slopes is amazing. We concluded it must be because of the outstanding views these sites provide the residents. Chances were very good that Chinstrap as well as Adelie Penguins co-exist in this colony. We had much to look forward to this morning as our route northward took us past Borradaile Island and along the coast of Young Island. This had given us an excellent look at the entire Balleny group together with our magnificent views the previous evening of Buckle, Sabrina (an SPA – Specially Protected Area under the Antarctic Treaty) and Chinstrap Islands. As we were reminded, more people have climbed Mt Everest than have visited the Balleny Islands. Our course today will take us out past the Antarctic Circle (66⁰ 34’ S) and on toward our next destination, New Zealand’s beautiful Campbell Island. The bird life and especially the return of the albatrosses will be an exciting highlight of this leg of our journey with Campbell Island being the major site of the nesting grounds for the Southern Royal Albatross.
Excitement reigned in the bridge after breakfast as pods of the ocean’s major predator were sighted near the ship. Orcas of the Type ‘C’ species, in groups of three or four were sighted at various distances from the ship. The estimate was that 15-20 were in our midst including young and mature whales. It was cameras to the ready as we flocked to the decks to observe their incredible swimming power as they outdistanced the ship with ease. It was another highlight to our trip and capped off our visit to Antarctica, this most remote part of our planet.
After lunch and as we left Young Island, the last of the Balleny’s, we enjoyed and learned from the special documentary ‘The Last Ocean’. This and a history lecture by Stephen on Shackleton’s ‘Endurance’ expedition completed the day’s scheduled programme. It was of special interest to learn that one of our passengers has a special connection with this storied expedition. Doug Graham’s great-aunt, living in England as a girl, used to play on and around the original James Caird before it was restored and placed in its present location at Dulwich College.
A special ‘formal’ dinner was held this evening to mark the crossing of the Antarctic Circle and the success of our journey to the Antarctic. A jovial time was had by all as we celebrated the occasion and looked forward to our next stop, historic Campbell Island. The Birding Club has so far had an outstanding voyage with almost a 100% rate on eyeing targeted species, both birds and mammals. This, while we still have the species rich Campbell Island to explore!
Photo credit: L. Gwynn
Day 23: 2nd February
At sea making for Campbell Island (64⁰ S)
Rougher seas overnight and early this morning but we have adapted to shipboard conditions and we are sleeping well. We have now left the unique polar region of 24 hour daylight. We are now at 64⁰ S and steadily making our way due north. At a rate of 10mph and the distance to Campbell being 800 miles we should arrive in late afternoon on February 4, winds and weather permitting.
The day was focused on learning with two lectures and the film ‘Longitude’ on the agenda. Grigory gave a fascinating talk on one of his favourite topics ‘Sub-Glacial Lakes of Antarctica’. This opened our eyes in terms of the large number of these lakes and the fact that many of them are inter-connected. He explained the key research projects underway to better understand their characteristics and impact on the surrounding ice environment. In the afternoon Stephen gave a most interesting lecture on the Fuchs-Hillary ‘Crossing of Antarctica 1955-58’. This expedition finally completed the ‘last great journey’ and generated significant publicity and controversy which continues to occupy historians 60 years later. It also marked the end of the large privately funded expedition style of the ‘heroic age’.
During the evening those of us who were out on the bridge before turning in were witness to a most spectacular sunset from 10:00PM to 10:30PM. Hopefully, everyone will experience at least one of these magical moments before we arrive in Bluff.
Day 24: 3rd February
At sea (57⁰ S) Making for Campbell Island
We awoke to find the ship making good progress north and a temperature of +7⁰ C. which means we must have crossed the Antarctic Convergence, the wavy line where the warmer waters of the northern ocean meet the cooler water from Antarctica. We would spend another day at sea and expect to arrive at Campbell Island tomorrow night about 10:00PM. The seas and winds are normal and quieter than might be expected in the ‘furious fifties’. People are getting their photographs organised and preparing for the many opportunities we will encounter at Campbell Island. We all made a good start by attending Lisle’s excellent and most amusing presentation ‘Birding 101’. After being introduced to Lisle’s childhood he showed us why he is so passionate about the avian family. His goal of turning us all into either ‘birders’ or perhaps ‘twitchers’ shows great promise of being realised. We will all look at birds differently after this trip. We also have finally learned how to shop for a good pair of binoculars!
Later in the morning Rodney introduced us to Campbell Island, a place that he knows very well having personally participated in the revival of its natural environment. Rodney outlined the history of the island, its pastoral leases and the effects of visitors who brought cats and rats and sheep which particularly damaged the beautiful floral paradise that Sir Joseph Hooker (of James Clark Ross’ expedition) had described in 1841. In more recent times New Zealand operated a meteorological station which has now been fully automated. Fortunately a major multi-year effort was undertaken in 2001 to remove the rats, the sheep and cats having been removed earlier. This was successful and the island is now free of introduced pests and animals. Everyone on board eagerly anticipated encounters with several unique yet abundant species of flora and fauna. These include various megaherbs and sub-alpine plants including the beautiful Pleurophyllum speciosum and tussock grass Poa foliosa. There are 6 species of albatross that nest on the island including the beautiful Southern Royal and the endemic Campbell Albatross. With their return from near-extinction the New Zealand Pipit and Campbell Island Flightless Teal can be seen as well as Rockhopper and Yellow-eyed Penguins. Eager birders should achieve many new ‘ticks’.
The afternoon agenda was also kept busy with another ‘ship-shop’ and a historic documentary film ‘Foothold on Antarctica’ that described the Advance Party Expedition of the Commonwealth Trans-Antarctic Expedition (CTAE) into the Weddell Sea which established Vivian Fuchs’ base ‘Shackleton’ on the coast at Vahsel Bay in February 1956. The day was topped off with The Antarctic Quiz organised and developed by Will and Emily. Sixty tough questions including one based on recognizing 10 different National anthems and one based on ten different animal sounds narrated by David Attenborough made it a difficult challenge indeed. Great fun was had by all even though a few protests were lodged. In the end Team Krohmoff won with 41 pts out of a possible 60 on a closely fought contest. Their team took their name from the Russian name of our ship “Professor Khromov”. We have one more night and day at sea and look to sleep in the sheltered confines of Perseverance Harbour tomorrow night.
Day 25: 4th February
At sea (54⁰ S) making for Campbell Island, 155 miles away
It’s 1:00 AM and the call came out from Lisle at the bridge. The Aurora Australis had made an appearance in the now darkened night sky! Awake - all those who want to observe one of the planet’s most beautiful phenomena! Many of us spent hours on deck staring in awe at the illuminated sky while sheets of green danced across the sky. Our journey had given us yet another opportunity to count our blessings at the marvels we have experienced.
Faye, our Cruise Director, gently woke us in the morning since many had only had a few hours sleep after enjoying the night’s light show. This morning our EL advised us the day’s programme would be on hold and to be “rigidly flexible” since the seas were hitting us on the beam due to our course for Campbell Island. We will arrive at about 11:00PM based on current conditions. Due to the heavy swell our lectures were put on hold today. This left time to add some pictures of albatross to our collection. The conditions were ideal and the birds did not disappoint. The lords of the air gave us a magnificent display of their aeronautic prowess. It was wonderful to watch as they flew in pairs or solo down until their wing-tip would brush the sea only to then glide effortlessly through the trough of the wave and then they would circle and repeat the manoeuvre. Many of us attempted to capture them on our cameras as they sailed past. It became a game but eventually with patience and practice we became more proficient and most will return home with good albatross photos. Sharon was undoubtedly our champion having taken many stunning photographs.
The sun shone all day and the Southern Ocean was at its ‘furious fifties’ best. We will all remember this day on the sea which the gallant Spirit of Enderby shrugged off as ‘just another day in the office’. Tomorrow we will awake in the calm of Perseverance Harbour at Campbell Island.
Day 26: 5th February
Campbell Island (52⁰ S)
Last night we slept like baby seals in the arms of Perseverance Harbour. The morning was a bit drizzly and there was some breeze but the front would move through during the day. We had one more ‘quarantine’ to perform as Campbell Island is ‘pest-free’, one of the largest such areas in the world. Breakfast was at 7:30AM since we had a very busy day ahead. After breakfast we gathered for a briefing where our EL explained the plan for the day. There were several options including a ‘long’ walk (12km), a Zodiac cruise through the island’s bays and historic sights, and an afternoon walk to the nesting sites of the Southern Royal Albatross or a combination of these. The weather forecast from our experienced EL was for improvement so it was all go.
Those with energy to spare chose the long walk while others chose to do the Zodiac cruise in the morning and the albatross walk in the afternoon. It all worked out perfectly with the sky clearing and the winds abating. The cruise around the bays revealed birds such as Antarctic terns, several species of gulls, and Northern Giant Petrels. The sea lions were especially welcoming as they frolicked around the Zodiacs and kept our cameras clicking with their ever-changing poses. The long-walkers were not disappointed, returning with some hints of well used muscles but were well rewarded with sightings of sea-lions and rare crested penguins. The board-walkers also had a great afternoon topped off with their visit to the largest nesting colony of Royal Albatross on the planet. There were multiple sightings of the rare Campbell Island Snipe. Sharon brought back excellent photos of the small long-beaked bird. The beautiful megaherb Pleurophyllum speciosum was in flower and its purple carpet formed the backdrop for many photographs. It was a true feast from Mother Nature which we were very fortunate to enjoy in such benign conditions.
Our evening dinner was made complete with a dessert of fine cheeses and crackers complemented with good wines and juices from the bar. It was a wonderful way to stretch our legs as our journey exited the furious fifties with its days at sea, and entered its final week. The good news is that we have another day tomorrow to more fully enjoy this special island and the natural wonders it has to offer. With all the fresh air we inhaled during the day we will certainly sleep well tonight.
Photo credit: L. Gwynn
Photo credit: L. Gwynn
Day 27: 6th February
Campbell Island Perseverance Harbour (52⁰ S)
The morning call from Faye came at 7:15AM and our second day on this beautiful island had begun. The programme was similar to yesterday with minor variations as the numbers would be different on the different activities. The wind had died down and the bay was calm. Many chose the option of a day on Col Lyall with its boardwalk access to the fabulous Southern Royal Albatross nesting sites. They were not disappointed.
There was also an in-depth Zodiac cruise of the bays and this time there was success in the sighting of the elusive Campbell Island Flightless Teal (called a duck by some). Several sightings and photographs were reported of the Campbell Island Snipe, also an endangered species and fortunately on the rebound. There were eight passengers plus two staff who opted for the ascent of Mt Honey. A reasonably benign climb in good conditions, it became somewhat trickier in the deepening mist and continuing drizzle that set in after a brilliant start. After being given an enthusiastic send-off by a pair of energetic sea lions we marched with our leader, Grigory, onward and upward. There is no strong track to follow once one has navigated the more trodden mud-bowls and crossed the many streams up to the tussock area. Route finding then became more important and our leader, taking dead aim, enabled us all to ‘summit’, applying the philosophy of ‘leading from behind’ due to the eagerness of some in the group to snag a Campbell Island ‘first’. Grigory did a great job to ensure that we kept together so no one would lose their way – not an impossibility in the conditions. Many of the group then transferred at the wharf and immediately took on the Col Lyall boardwalk one more time. Others chose to return later after drying out. The weather favoured those who went early in the afternoon and who doubled their enjoyment of that spectacular walk. Dinner was set back an hour to allow maximum enjoyment of the day and frequent Zodiac shuttles were run from the ship to the island wharf. We were all grateful to our EL for this excellent ferry service that allowed everyone to enjoy the final day of at Campbell Island to the utmost.
Tonight at 11:00PM we set our course for Stewart Island with an estimated travel time of 36 hours. We will savour our final days at sea.
Day 28: 7th February
At sea (50⁰ S) heading for Stewart Island
We awoke after a restless night at sea. The Southern Ocean had decided to give us a farewell experience of its ‘rocking and rolling’ nature. This continued throughout the day which gave us all an excuse for an afternoon nap. Reading and photo organising were the order of the day. Things eased during the afternoon and the bright sunshine coaxed several hardy passengers on deck for some fresh air and a final chance to photograph the beautiful albatross.
By tomorrow morning we will have anchored in the lee of Stewart Island where we must prepare for the end of our journey – and what an amazing journey it has been.
Day 29: 8th February
Stewart Island (48⁰ S)
Everyone enjoyed much calmer seas overnight since the EL and captain agreed to modify our course slightly. Although adding a bit more distance it eased the passage considerably. By morning we were in the lee of Stewart Island and its out islands. This was our last complete day at sea and the weather turned out fine with high temperatures of 10⁰ C., little wind, and clear blue skies.
There were administrative tasks to attend to such as returning our borrowed gum-boots and our life-jackets. Three more events completed the morning activity. First off was a very interesting documentary film of the project to rid Campbell Island of its introduced rat population. This multi-year effort was completed in 2003 and involved a complex process of bait trials, geographic selection, and logistical challenges over the island’s often difficult terrain and weather conditions. Its great success will encourage similar projects on even larger islands and possibly in worldwide locations. The film was followed with a presentation by Rodney on ‘Heritage Expeditions – Behind the Scenes’. We were all interested to learn how the ship is maintained in prime running condition with both annual check-ups and a major inspection every five years. Our Russian crew are also very experienced and some have been with Heritage Expeditions for over a decade. The presentation included an entertaining video made on-board by Sherry of the techniques employed by the Chefs in the galley when seas are high. Ed and Max, together with Natalia and Olga, have not missed a beat in providing us with tasty meals, three times daily, despite sometimes very difficult conditions. Ed and Max joined us to field many questions and provide insight on how they make it all happen. All the passengers greatly appreciated their efforts behind the scenes. The morning was rounded out by our medic Dr Roger who presented on his research into the differences experienced between men and women following surgery for tonsillectomy. ‘Gender Wars – An Inflammatory Situation’ brought forth several conclusions. The most startling was the difference between genders of their sensibilities to certain types of pain. Needless to say, Roger’s talk did raise a few questions!
The afternoon hours gave an opportunity to settle our accounts and to admire the outstanding views of the east side of Stewart Island. We then gathered for a wrap-up of our adventure into the Ross Sea over the Southern Ocean with a briefing on the final day’s departure programme and acknowledgements to the excellent contributions to our trip from Captain Dimitri and his crew. We then enjoyed a beautifully prepared photographic record of our voyage prepared by Yulia and Lisle. This was based on photographs taken by them, with contributions from passengers, over the past 30 days. The video quickly reminded us of the special journey we had just completed. Copies were then made available to everyone. This will be followed by a copy of the Expedition Log post voyage that Stephen compiled daily as the trip progressed from our departure from Bluff, thirty days ago, on January 12.
A special celebration dinner was held on our last night together aboard the Spirit of Enderby and Ed and Max did themselves proud. A tasty soup puree followed by Rack of Lamb or Braised Salmon were on the menu. These were topped off by a beautiful dessert and cheese plate in the bar. Apparently the socialising went on for some time thereafter. It would be an early wake-up call of 6:45AM the next morning since everyone would be heading outward from the ship to various points north from Bluff onwards.
Day 30: 9th February
Bluff, Southland New Zealand (47⁰ S)
Our ship, the ‘Spirit of Enderby – Professor Khromov’, our home and safe haven for the past thirty days, sailed smoothly into Bluff harbour on a calm and beautiful morning shortly after 6:00AM, slightly ahead of schedule. The sea was like a pane of glass, a mirror reflecting the clear bright sunrise while the pilot boat quietly guided her to her berth. It was an early start to the day for everyone since all bags needed to be tagged red, green or white depending on destination and placed in the corridors for loading and transport. A final group photograph was taken before boarding the coach for a ride either to the airport, the hotel, or other location in Invercargill. It was fond farewells all around and the new friendships we had made were evident in the many smiles and best wishes and hugs. Staff stood at the entrance to the bus and waved one more time as the bus drove from the wharf leaving the ship and crew to prepare for her next voyage. A tear or two might have been shed for the wonderful month we had experienced together, almost as a family.
Once on terra firma and on the way to Invercargill there are two strange sensations that we all might have felt. First was the sight of farms, fences, roads, trucks and especially trees. Where had all this been for thirty days? We had literally been taken out of the ‘real world’ and it was a bit of a shock to suddenly see it all again. The second experience was the sensation that the ground was swaying, or was it us? Our bodies still thought we were at sea! Perhaps we had become sailors after all. We had learned much during our time in the Antarctic. The voyage is now over but will always be with us. We inhabit a wonderful world. We must take care of it!
The ‘Best Journey in the World’ had come to an end.
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