1660: Birding Down Under 16 Nov 2016
Day 1: 16th November
Invercargill
Passengers arrived from around the globe in Invercargill, New Zealand’s southern-most city. We gathered at the Kelvin Hotel for our first meal together this evening. Our expedition leader Rodney warmly welcomed us all and provided scope for the day ahead and the adventure we were about to set out on.
Day 2: 17th November
Leaving the Port of Bluff
Assembling excitedly at an Invercargill hotel, this morning the passengers and a few staff of 2016’s Birding Down Under expedition explored the town of Invercargill which included the town museum where we saw an exhibit on the natural history of the subantarctic islands and even a special exhibit about New Zealand’s endemic dinosaur – the Tuatara, an ancient and barely-evolved ‘lizard’.
After lunch a coach transferred everybody to the Port of Bluff where we were greeted by the ship’s staff and some of the crew, before spending some time either exploring our new ‘home’ for the next 18 days, or chatting and eating fresh-baked scones in the bar/lounge area.
After a few formalities, including briefings about safety on-board the ship, Zodiac use and an introduction to each member of the ship’s expedition staff, as well as a lifeboat drill, we were soon steaming out of Bluff into the open sea beyond Stewart Island. With many keen birders on board the new birds started piling in and included our first albatrosses of the trip – White-capped mainly as well as a few Salvin’s Albatross – as well as Sooty Shearwaters, Fairy Prions, Common Diving-Petrel, White-chinned Petrels and a handful of Stewart Island (a.k.a. Foveaux) Shags, Spotted Shags and for a lucky few, some Fiordland Crested Penguins. Soon though the light began to fade and it was time to retire for the first spectacular dinner of the expedition – lamb or salmon, both were superb.
Day 3: 18th November
The Snares and at sea to the Auckland Islands
There’s no false start on this expedition – it really is all go from the start. We woke early today in anticipation of our first off-ship activity, a Zodiac cruise around North East Island, part of The Snares. Fortunately the weather had improved slightly overnight, though with a turn predicted imminently Rodney Russ, our expedition leader and Subantarctic legend, made the decision to pull the cruise forward, launching before breakfast rather than after, so as to give us the best opportunity to actually get out and bird the island. Sure enough, it worked, and after a slightly tricky and damp embarkation of the Zodiacs, interrupted by fly-by views of a stonking white-morph Southern Giant Petrel, we were soon powering toward our first island endemics of the expedition. First up came Snares Crested Penguin, with small flotillas greeting us just offshore, whilst a closer inspection of the shore gave us good looks at Snares Fernbird, Snares Tomtit and several large groups of Snares Crested Penguin. Occasional Subantarctic Skuas cruised overhead, whilst Antarctic and White-fronted Terns screeched from the shorelines, and a lucky few even found a Fiordland Crested Penguin amongst the throng. Mammals were also out in force and we found some really great Hooker’s (New Zealand) Sea Lions as well as many New Zealand Fur Seals.
With the weather deteriorating though it was soon time to head back to the ship in time for a rather hearty breakfast. The remainder of the day, through slightly bumpy weather, was spent either on deck, on the bridge, or in cabins downloading photos. Those who braved the elements, or retired to the comfort of the bridge, were rewarded with excellent seabirding. Albatross abounded with Campbell, White-capped, Salvin’s, Southern Royal and Gibson’s all being seen in good numbers, whilst the first Light-mantled Sooty Albatross of the trip was very welcome to all who saw it. Northern Giant Petrels made their first appearance this afternoon, as did Subantarctic Little Shearwater, along with plenty of Broad-billed Prions, many Black-bellied Storm Petrels and a handful of Grey-backed Storm Petrels. Perhaps the most appreciated bird of the day were several great passes by a handful of White-headed Petrels – a really impressive brute of a bird.
By day’s end dinner was well earnt and well deserved for all onboard, and we enjoyed another excellent meal heroically-prepared in less-than-optimal conditions by our superstar chefs, Ed and Connor.
Photo: Heritage Expeditions
Day 4: 19th November
Enderby Island
Enderby Island is a special place. Not only does it lend its name to our vessel, and home to many of the staff and crew, the Spirit of Enderby, but it also holds a majestic beauty that few are ever able to appreciate.
Our landing went perfectly, despite a little bit of choppiness, and we were soon all on shore in search of our first Auckland Islands creatures. Of course, first of all we had to make our way through the gauntlet of over-enthusiastic Hooker’s Sea Lions that would come barking at you at great speed, and if you ignored them, simply backed off sheepishly. Next up were Auckland Islands Tomtits that flitted around us at our meeting point, and a small group of flipper-waving Yellow-eyed Penguins stood along the dunes above the beach. Auckland Islands Pipit was almost omnipresent as we began our walk across the island and once on the plateau (a very nice, gentle incline) we found many Auckland Islands Dotterel as well as a small group of displaying Southern Royal Albatross, and several nesting pairs. A lucky few saw Auckland Islands Snipe before we’d even made it to our splitting point, and when we arrived at our rendez-vous along the clifftops we were greeted by the display flight of several pairs of Light-mantled Sooty Albatross – truly mesmerising and a highly sought after experience by many birders.
Parting ways, many opted for the much longer circumnavigation of the island where they found some incredibly obliging Subantarctic (Auckland Island) Snipe, the main target for most, along with point-blank views of everything Enderby has to offer, whilst the remainder of the group backtracked along the boardwalk before walking along the southern shore, finding several Auckland Islands Teal, one of the world’s rarest ducks, as well as some outrageously obliging Yellow-eyed Penguins and fluffy Northern Giant Petrel chicks.
Photo: L. Gwynn
Photo: Heritage Expeditions
Day 5: 20th November
Auckland and Enderby Islands
Today was separated into three different parts. First of all, at daybreak we landed at Hardwicke, site of a former British whaling colony, settled in 1849, that failed to hunt any more than 1 whale in 2 years and 9 months. Our walk through history was incredibly interesting, especially with Rodney and Gus’s running commentary giving us more information than we could ever have hoped for about every aspect of history and life on these islands. Highlights here included a poignant cemetery of British settlers, a heart-wrencher for the Brits aboard, and a visit to the Victoria Tree which features some absolutely amazing carving by a party searching for shipwrecked souls in 1865.
The middle section of the day was filled with an absolutely necessary, but unfortunate medical evacuation of a passenger from Enderby Island. A solemn reminder that the ocean really is the boss here, and to take care at every turn. Fortunately, they returned to the New Zealand mainland (the quick way, on a Southern Lakes Helicopter) and are now recovering in comfort at home.
With the evacuation completed we made an evening visit to Port Ross where everybody walked up and along the coast through superb Rata forest and out onto the top of a hill which transformed our view of the Auckland Islands from sea-bound, to air-bound. In a total panorama we could see islands for miles as Rodney once again pointed out and named each island, and rock, giving us a history of each and every human and historical element in our view. A magnificent end to the day.
Photo: Heritage Expeditions
Day 6: 21st November
Carnley Harbour & Tagua Bay
Given the truly undesirable weather that laid between us and Macquarie Island, we made the decision to spend another day in the Auckland Islands to allow the weather to alleviate somewhat. We spent the majority of the day within Carnley Harbour where hundreds of albatross met us at the entrance including White-capped, Gibson’s, Southern Royal and Light-mantled, along with thousands of wheeling and soaring Sooty Shearwaters and several Slender-billed Prions among many other seabirds.
With the only shelter we could find appearing at Tagua Bay we embarked upon a lengthy, pleasant leg stretch that took us through a series of different habitats before ascending a hill aside the harbour giving spectacular views across the Auckland Islands.
Day 7: 22nd November
At sea toward Macquarie Island
A full day at sea was welcomed by the keener seabirders of the group, allowing a chance to catch up with a few new pelagic wanderers, we entered Australian waters allowing potential country list ticks. A very nice selection of birds kept us entertained throughout the day including our first high tally of Antarctic Prion, several nice Grey-headed Albatross, four ‘species’ of White-backed Albatross including our first Snowy (or classic ‘Wandering Albatross’) and a couple of good Antipodean, and the most remarkable highlight of the day came from the sheer mass of White-headed Petrels we encountered with at least a couple always within sight. Soft-plumaged Petrel was also new for the voyage today.
Day 8: 23rd November
Macquarie Island
Macquarie Island is infamous for its remote and fierce nature. Once considered as a location for an Australian penal colony, it was deemed too inhospitable and brutal to be colonised. Unfortunately upon arrival at the island it became rapidly obvious that our morning landing that had been planned would have to be suspended, with the heavy weather system making a beach landing impossible. We did make the decision, however, to spend our time waiting to see if the weather would drop cruising up and down the east coast to and forth from the absolutely unbelievable Lusitania Bay, home to 500,000+ King Penguins. Sure enough, despite not being able to get any Zodiacs in the water, the penguins came out to meet us and we had superb views of King Penguin as they surrounded the ship in small groups. Along with the Kings we also had great encounters with the endemic Royal Penguin, a relatively recent split from Macaroni, as well as far fewer Eastern Rockhopper and Gentoo Penguins. Some of the island’s resident Grey-headed, Black-browed and Snowy Albatrosses also kept us company, and several pods of ‘type B’ Orca had the passengers thrilled.
Unfortunately, despite waiting all day, the weather did not want to calm in the slightest. At one point we managed to drop two scout boats but the reports came back negative and told of scary 5-metre swells dropping right onto the beach and powerful surges making any landing irresponsibly dangerous. Our landing at Macquarie was not to be, but such is life in the Southern Ocean. We are truly at the mercy of a formidable force. On the way out of Macquarie’s surroundings though we did manage to find some very obliging Blue Petrels, highly prized by most on board.
Photo: L. Gwynn
Day 9: 24th November
At sea toward Campbell Island
The day started with a Blue Petrel whizzing around the ship, and continued with a constant throng of seabird activity which included 9 species of albatross, 3 species of Pterodroma petrel, at least 3 species of prion, 3 species of Storm-Petrel and thousands upon thousands of individuals to look at and photograph. Throughout the day people watched or photographed from the bridge or the deck, and the photographers congregated around the stern of the ship where Peter had set up a fish oil drip, attracting a good variety of species within photographic range. Toward the end of the day we were treated to repeated, close passes by not only a fantastic Grey-headed Albatross but also several courting Light-mantled Sooty Albatrosses in absolutely perfect light. What a way to end the day.
Day 10: 25th November
Campbell Island
Campbell is a special place. Arriving under a perfect blue sky with blazing sunshine we saw the island in its true majesty. Shortly after breakfast two separate groups set out with different purposes. The first went out on a long and relatively tough hike across and around the island, taking all day to do so, whilst the others split their day into two with a lengthy Zodiac cruise in the morning and a more relaxed hike into the plateau in the afternoon. Both groups got fantastic views of the endemic and ultra-rare Campbell Island Teal as well as the secretive Campbell Snipe and the Zodiac cruisers had close up encounters with the beautiful Campbell Shag. The afternoon foray took us into the highlands where we sought out nesting Southern Royal Albatrosses, and we really struck gold. We spent the entire afternoon and early evening within just a few metres of many of these huge, regal and awesome creatures as they formed display groups, fed their chicks and generally went about their comical business, stamping their way through the grasslands with their huge feet. Several more Campbell Snipe were also found, and several boisterous Hooker’s Sea Lions provided some entertainment before we made a hasty retreat through a growing wind and rain to the comfort of the ship.
Photo: L. Gwynn
Photo: L. Gwynn
Day 11: 26th November
At sea toward the Antipodes Islands
Every day spent at sea in the Southern Ocean is an exciting day, whether that’s spent relaxing or birding, reading or just catching up on journals and photo editing. This was very much a quiet day after several intense days of excitement but those who ventured out onto the decks or up onto the bridge recorded some interesting seabirds that included an inquisitive Grey-headed Albatross, our first definite Antipodean Albatross, as well as Gibson’s, Snowy, Black-browed, Campbell, Light-mantled Sooty, Southern Royal, White-capped and Salvin’s Albatrosses. Lots of White-headed and Soft-plumaged Petrels posed a challenge for the photographers on board.
Day 12: 27th November
A.M. at sea, P.M. Antipodes Islands
Several of our expeditions reach Campbell Island and the other islands we’ve previously visited, but only Birding Down Under reaches the islands we visit from this day onwards. First up came the fabled Antipodes Islands, so named because if you draw a straight line through Earth from London (UK) it comes out, more or less, at this rocky outpost.
On our approach to the islands we were greeted by flocks upon flocks of Fulmar Prions, some really great looks at Antipodean Albatross with its distinctive plumage and small size, and a whole throng of other seabirds under perfect blue skies. Once at the islands we decided to Zodiac cruise at Ring Dove Bay, which was the only shelter from the persisting strong wind. Once off and cruising along the shore we instantly found our first group of the remarkably stunning and almost regal Erect-crested Penguin. Further along the coast we found an Eastern Rockhopper Penguin among another Erect-crested colony before our final two bird targets for the day stole our attention. Several Reischek’s Parakeets were seen exceptionally well as they fed just above the shore but the mad dash to a pair of Antipodes Parakeets meant we were soon enjoying great views of this tough and rare bird. As the weather started to take a turn we finished our coastal survey finding a couple of small Eastern Rockhopper Penguin groups as well as breeding Fulmar Prion and Cape Petrel, but the mammal highlight came in the form of several large Elephant Seals and lots of good looks at Subantarctic Fur Seal with their distinctive golden faces and chests.
All too soon, and under the banner of a double rainbow, we made our way back to the ship in time to set sail for our next far-flung destination.
Photo: L. Gwynn
Day 13: 28th November
A.M. Bounty Islands, P.M. at sea
The Bounties are one of the most remote and inaccessible island groups in the world, primarily due to their geology – they are merely sheer-sided cliff-face-clad rock stacks in the middle of the roaring Southern Ocean. Despite this, they are absolutely teeming with life and as we approached early this morning we found clouds of Fulmar Prion, flotillas of Erect-crested Penguin, and tens of thousands of Salvin’s Albatross which presented quite the impressive spectacle. The rarest and most sought after bird here though was the Bounty Islands Shag, considered to be the rarest shag in the world. Fortunately it didn’t take long for one to come out and circle the ship, and before long we were being treated to extremely close views of this handsome snake-necked seabird.
Moving away from the Bounties we spent the remainder of the day at sea toward the Chatham Islands, with the stand-out highlight for many being a large pod of bounding and porpoising Long-finned Pilot Whales, whilst others enjoyed an afternoon of photography at the bow or stern and others sought out a bounty of albatrosses, petrels and other seabirds.
Photo: L. Gwynn
Day 14: 29th November
Pyramid Rock, South East Island & off of Main Island
This grey and overcast morning began with the biggest of bangs. Almost the first bird seen by the early-rising birders was the holy grail of seabirding in the southern Pacific – the Chatham Island Taiko! Out of the early morning gloom, a single Taiko screamed past the ship at high speed before turning and making its way up the wake, staying just long enough for Lisle to make a call over the PA system alerting the sleeping birders to this special presence. We couldn’t believe we’d already scored a Taiko, our luck was truly in.
The remainder of the run into the Chatham Islands was quiet by comparison with the highlight being a pod of Dusky Dolphins, but once we reached the formidable and foreboding island known as ‘The Pyramid’ things really picked up again. A single stack of rock jutting out of the ocean among the Chatham Islands, The Pyramid is the sole breeding location of the beautiful Chatham Albatross. And, as expected, as we arrived off of the island we were soon surrounded by both Chatham Albatross and the equally stunning Northern Buller’s, or Pacific, Albatross. We spent the morning here photographing and enjoying the close up views before making the short journey to South East Island.
Once at South East we decided to bring lunch forward as the weather was shifting, and negotiated a skilful Zodiac embarkation to cruise the shore of the island. Some of the first birds seen were the endemic Chatham Island subspecies’ of Tui, Red-crowned Parakeet and New Zealand Pipit, but it was the small group of the wildly endangered Shore Plover that really stole the show. We had point blank views of these cute little waders whilst Pitt Island Shags fed around us. Further along the coast we located a small group of Chatham Island Oystercatchers before making our way back to the ship.
We had an evening date, after an early dinner, with another try for the Chatham Island Taiko. We cruised the waters off of a known Taiko colony with the hope that we’d find one, and find one we did – quite quickly in fact! Over the course of 45 minutes or so this presumed single individual appeared 4 different times a little distantly before giving a final close pass to all the birders assembled on deck. Unbelievably, in amongst the chaos, THREE Chatham Island Petrels were also seen by the lucky birders and photographers at the ship’s stern – what an unprecedented success!
Photo: L. Gwynn
Day 15: 30th November
Main Island & off of South East Island
Making our way to the shore of the Main Island today we were escorted by a handful of Chatham Shags, appeasing those still desperate to tick the penultimate shag of the expedition. Once on land we made our way to the Awatotora Reserve. The group split into two here, with around 25 staying and birding the valley, where they found Little Blue Penguin, Chatham Warbler, Chatham Pigeon, Chatham Red-crowned Parakeet, Chatham Tui and the endemic race of New Zealand Fantail. The remainder of the group, around 20 people, made their way with an escort to the privately-owned Sweetwater Covenant, a private initiative that seeks to conserve the rare endemic petrels of the Chatham group. Here the group were among extremely few living people to be shown a Magenta Petrel, or Taiko, actually in its burrow by the researchers. In a superb twist of luck, the researchers also had a bachelor Chatham Island Petrel that they were able to show us, allowing all to see these mega rare tubenoses up close and personal – a phenomenal and once in a lifetime experience!
This evening the ship relocated to South East Island which holds the highest concentration of breeding Chatham Island Petrels anywhere, but unfortunately none were seen coming to the island in the near-darkness. However, yet another incredible experience was had by a lucky few who stayed up beyond darkness. Attracted to the ship’s lights, the decks became a sheltering ground for dozens of White-faced Storm Petrels, Common Diving Petrels and Fairy Prions, allowing incredible in-the-hand views as we released the birds from the deck. The ship’s lights were soon turned off and we all turned in after an unbelievable day.
Photo: L. Gwynn
Day 16: 1st December
Off of Mangere & Little Mangere and at sea toward mainland New Zealand
After a couple of very successful days in the Chathams we were greeted this morning by heavy swell and seas breaking against our target location of Little Mangere. Unfortunately this meant that Zodiacs couldn’t be launched and so we opted to slow the ship as we left the islands and to chum off of the back deck. This of course resulted in a cacophony of myriad seabirds, including absolutely point-blank views of several albatross species including the beautiful Chatham and Pacific (Northern Buller’s), and the enormous Northern Royal. The remainder of the day was spent steaming west on our journey back towards mainland New Zealand, birding along the way. Unsurprisingly we found plenty to look at including Grey-faced, Mottled, Soft-plumaged, Cook’s-type and White-chinned Petrels, lots of albatross and even a few Oceanic Sunfish. A beautiful sunset was enjoyed before dinner.
Photo: L. Gwynn
Day 17: 2nd December
At sea to Dunedin
The long journey back to New Zealand necessitates two full days at sea to cover the vast distance, but this of course gives plenty of time for some final sea watching as we enter the range of a few different species. Today we saw 5 species of Pteredroma in a morning, plenty of other seabirds, and on the mammal front we recorded Sei, Long-finned Pilot and Cuvier’s Beaked Whales. Highlights of the day for many were two new seabirds for the voyage, and lifers for most onboard: the cute Black-winged Petrel and the tricky and rare Pycroft’s Petrel, a highly sought after New Zealand endemic.
Day 18: 3rd December
At sea to Dunedin
The final day of an expedition is a unique moment; a mixture of overriding elation and joy, and sadness. Today was a day spent seeing final birds including more Pycroft’s Petrel, Cook’s Petrel and our first Buller’s Shearwater and Otago Shags, as well as cetaceans like Dusky Dolphin and Long-finned Pilot Whale, but there was also a lot of packing, sorting and re-capping to do. An end of expedition slideshow was masterfully put together and edited by Edin and we all shared a final few laughs and even a few tears over what had been a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Our final dinner with friends new and old was filled with laughter, chatter, and of course fantastic food as always. It had been an incredible 18 days.
Click here for the Species List.
