1658: South Pacific - Secrets of Melanesia 26 Oct 2016
Day 1
Honiara, Guadalcanal, Solomon Islands
Wednesday 26 October 2016
We landed safely at Henderson airport on the large mountainous island of Guadalcanal located in the Solomon Islands. Its main town is Honiara, the capital of the Solomons. Guadalcanal is well-known for its pivotal role in World War II, with the ‘Battle of Guadalcanal’ turning the tide in favour of the Allies in the Pacific theater. Greeted by tropical warmth we were soon whisked off down town to our central hotel Solomon Kitano Mendana. 
Photo: Heritage Expeditions
Day 2
Honiara touring day, Solomon Islands
Thursday 27 October 2016
The birders set out early today with a mix of passengers, some arriving, some departing and some carrying on through from the previous voyage. The group made their way up Honiara’s premier birding site – Mt. Austen – as dawn broke in search of some avian goodies. A good length walk down and back up the hill rewarded them with birds like Ultramarine Kingfisher, Buff-headed Coucal, Blyth’s Hornbill, Brown-winged Starling, Yellow-bibbed Lory, a single Pied Goshawk and a whole flock of Superb Fruit Doves some 20 strong. The morning soon became unbearably hot from a birding perspective, so by lunchtime they made their way to a cool and comfortable spot beside the sea for a coffee or two.
The rest of the group had a leisurely morning before joining the afternoon ‘surrounds tour of Honiara’ taking in the local sights of a World War II memorial, historical and artefact shop, parliament building and downtown Honiara markets before boarding the Spirit of Enderby, which was anchored in the harbour. After safety briefings and staff introductions by the expedition leader Nathan Russ, we were soon back on deck bidding farewell to Honiara, all excited for the journey ahead and the ‘Secrets of Melanesia’ with Heritage Expeditions, aboard the Spirit of Enderby.
Photo: Heritage Expeditions
Day 3
Saint Jorge & Utuha Islands, Santa Isabel Province, Solomon Islands
Friday 28 October 2016
Nestled in ‘Thousand Ships Bay’, a name given by the Spanish explorer Alvaro de Mendaña y Neyra Mendana during his 1568 voyage through this area for the expanse of the harbour, we were woken by the enthusiastic voice of our hotel manager, Cath Stone, advising it was a balmy 31 Celsius outside. Soon we were landing at Lubiria logging camp on Saint Jorge Island, ready for our energetic walk to a remote village, along a newly created logging trail. Sometime later we entered Talise, an oasis at the end of the hot dry road, with each hill begging ‘are we there yet’. Greeted by Alice, an Anglican kindergarten teacher, we rested in the shade of a mango tree and acquired an insight into the intricacies of village life. During early colonialisation time, mid 1800’s, Anglicans were more successful in this area than other missionary denominations, as they trained local people in both New Zealand and Norfolk Island early in the piece to help with effective Christian conversion.
Similar to last year’s experience, the island of San Jorge gave a great surprise in its avian wealth for the birders today. Though the island holds no significant bird targets of note, it is special in its abundance of more widespread species. Dozens of Solomons Cockatoos gave fantastic views, as did plenty of Cardinal and Yellow-bibbed Lory, Superb and Claret-breasted Fruit Doves, more Ultramarine Kingfisher, Red-capped Myzomela, omnipresent Midget Flowerpeckers and several calling Solomons and Chestnut-bellied Monarchs. At the farthest point of their walk they found some astonishingly obliging White-billed Crows.
After lunch we were invited to Utuha Island by chiefs Johnlas Remon and Silas Valira, who officially welcomed us into the Solomon Islands with a traditional bamboo band. Soon feet tapping transpired to crazed dancing to a mix of sounds from reggae, pacific soul and flip flop beat. The dust of the morning was soon washed away as we dipped into the cool of the Solomon Sea.
Following on from the bamboo band we made the most of Utuha Island by snorkeling on its fringing reef. It was an excellent site to begin with - a gentle slope out to the blue allowing everyone to get familiar with their gear. The reef was spread out in patches of large boulders of stony coral and soft coral filling in the gaps. Feather duster and Christmas tree worms were abundant, along with a diverse range of fish species. As a whole, the site made for an extremely relaxing snorkel off a picturesque tropical island.
Following evening recap, one of the guests, Yoram introduced us to his daily limerick which would be a regular slot at each recap to follow, where he encapsulated quirky events of the day with clever prose.
Our doctor, we must put ahead,
Is a pianist and is not so bad
But here it was wise
To at least compromise
So he used a drum-pipe instead
Photo: Heritage Expeditions
Photo: Heritage Expeditions
Day 4
Leli Lei and Ngongosila Islands, Malaita Province, Solomon Islands
Saturday 29 October
The birders left the ship very early this morning and made their way by 4x4 deep into the heart of Malaita, crossing numerous rivers and mud trenches along the way. A persistent lack of rain and abundance of heat over the previous couple of months meant the birding today was extremely hard work and they really had to earn every bird that they saw. Fortunately Malaita White-eye was seen early on, along with the pale-eyed race of Brown-winged Starling, but an incredibly lack of bird song, noise or presence was unfortunately the most remarkable discovery of the morning. A Nankeen Night-Heron at the wharf on their return was obliging though.
Mid-morning, we joined Courtney Rayes, our marine biologist, in the Lecture Room for our introductory presentation about the underwater world and the fish we were likely to see on the voyage and were soon putting our skills to practice in the cool waters off the island of Leli Lei. Regarded by several people as ‘the best snorkeling they have ever done’ highlights the unique paradise of Leli Island. It all started by cruising over calm waters and pulling up to a stretch of white sand beach beneath overhanging trees. We leisurely entered the water and floated across the gently sloping coral reef. It was teeming with life, schools of fish surrounding the stony coral and anemones and soft coral filling in the space. A shy octopus was spotted beneath some rock and larger pelagic species were seen in the blue. The keenest snorkelers were in the water for up to three hours meandering back and forth, while others enjoyed a botany focused walk along the beach.
After lunch we repositioned the Spirit of Enderby beside Malaita Island, a mountainous island home to one-third of the Solomon’s total population, with pristine rivers and unspoilt tropical forests ready for our onshore activities. The waterways calmed as we made our way by zodiac to visit Ngongosila village. Greeted ashore by a surprise warrior attack, our first entertainment was from the secondary students near the Evangelical church before we followed the procession, soon stopping at our next demonstration of a wedding feast of ‘garta’ – a mix of boiled taro and galip nut, pounded with coconut cream. The excitement started to build - along with the number of children following us. The next step was the showing of bride wealth – elaborate shell money – delivered from the groom’s family to the bridal party in compensation for the loss of their daughter. Malaitan shell-money, manufactured in the Langa Langa Lagoon, is the traditional currency used in Malaita and throughout the Solomon Islands. The money consists of small polished shell disks that are drilled and placed on strings. It can be used as payment for bride price, funeral feasts and compensation, with the shell-money having a cash equivalent value. It is also worn as an adornment and status symbol. The standard unit, known as the tafuliae, is several strands 1.5 m in length. Whilst the shell money is still produced by the people of Langa Langa Lagoon, much is inherited, from father to son, and the old traditional strings are now rare. We soon melded as one, visitors and locals alike, as we escorted the would be bride through sandy walkways, giving the appearance she was floating above traditional pandanus mats ending at the final destination – a specially made structure from the groom’s family. With plenty of whoops of delight and excited squeals from the crowd the ceremony was complete. Moving to the other end of the tiny island, fortified by coral walls to defend against encroaching high tides, we pass a condensed neighbourhood of thatched houses, clothes lines and water cisterns to view young men of the village perform a number of dances reminiscent of Polynesian descent. Whilst the Anglican, Melanesian Evangelical and Seventh Day Adventist seem to have a strangle hold on the community of 800+ people traditions are still maintained in the form of men being unable to walk under clothes lines or under houses if women were in attendance and women were forbidden to dance to enforce male domination within the village. The afternoon events culminate in a small artifact shop shore side, with time to explore the community lead by our newly found friends, before returning to the Spirit of Enderby.
The Risofera I call Risofiria
The Borgira I call Borgiria
But when Moshe’s around
If you want to stay sound
Don’t say Fitna but Plumeria
Photo: Heritage Expeditions
Day 5
Star Harbour, Makira Island, Solomon Islands
Sunday 30 October 2016
Makira Province is the most easterly of the main island group in the Solomons archipelago, and covers some 3100sq km. Like Queen Elizabeth II prior to us in 1974, first stop is a visit to Na-Mamaru village. Standing proudly in front of his canoe shed, complete with moiety totem sentinels, Chief Alfred Murray welcomed us to a courtyard brightly decorated with hibiscus, frangipani and chairs, thoughtful presented for our comfort. In the shade of a beach almond tree (terminalia catappa), dancers soon appeared, a few proudly wearing the family jewels - necklaces made from flying fox, dolphin and dog teeth. In keeping with fluidity of culture and ensuring villages preserve their millennial population, traditional dances were performed to digitalized songs reflecting a contemporary style. After the obligatory coconut drink, farewell gifts and speeches, we made the journey by zodiac deep into the mangrove forest of Namuga passage and marvelled at how the local children scampered with ease through the thick buttress undergrowth collecting crabs and shells for an early morning feast. Further upstream, due to low tide, we walked the remainder of the tidal river and then along a muddy path, or small stream pending your perspective, into the scenic village of Tora, situated at the foothills to massive limestone cliffs. We broke out of the forest of sago palms and giant taro to strands of hymns delivered in perfect harmony. It was Sunday - a day of prayer and rest. Since the time of encounter in the mid 19th century with Europeans, Christianity has become dominant over the traditional religions within Melanesia. Soon Chief Rastas invited us into Sunday service, whilst others beachcombed along the shore and found discarded sago surfboards, local adaptions inspired from a surfing championship held in the village some years back. We soon continued our expedition to the outer eastern regions of the Solomon Islands travelling to Temotu Province. During the afternoon we joined Lisle in the Lecture Room for ‘Bird families of Melanesia’, followed by Moshe’s presentation on ‘The origin and distribution of useful Tropical Plants’, and finally Suzanne & Chris (Mr Solomon’s) for ‘Bridal Wealth and Body Ornaments of the Solomon Islands”.
After yesterday’s hard work, Makira presented a veritable feast of birds for the intrepid ‘birdos’. Almost immediately they found a handful of Makira Honeyeaters, an endemic genera – Meliarchus. A relatively short but activity-filled walk through the forest with some knowledgeable local men and boys turned up Mottled Flowerpecker in good numbers, Sooty Myzomela in much lesser numbers, and the superb Makira Cicadabird in the form of an obliging pair. Makira Starling also gave good views, as did the absolutely gorgeous White-headed Fruit Dove, along with some superb Yellow-bibbed Fruit Doves.
The news just blew me away –
No shore to snorkel today
Between morning and five!
Well, such is life
And its sucher and sucher each day
Photo: Heritage Expeditions
Photo: Heritage Expeditions
Day 6
Nendo, Temotu Province, Santa Cruz Islands, Solomon Islands
Monday 31 October 2016
First thing this morning a small embayment on Nendo Island provided the ideal snorkel site covered in stony and soft corals, and an abundance of vibrant fish. At one end of the site the rocky edge graduated into a reef, and the other end was a dramatic drop-off into crystal clear blue water. One of the most inquisitive species, a juvenile black snapper, gravitated towards us, with its unique pattern and colouration providing great entertainment. The rest of the reef was teeming with life, of particular significance the schooling anthias and damselfish. Tree and fan corals hung off the steep wall sporting a variation of colours. Deeper down a blacktip reef shark sought refuge, only passing into sight for a few seconds on occasion. The sheltered embayment was thoroughly enjoyed by all.
The Melanesian island group of Santa Cruz lies southeast of the Solomon Islands group and north of Vanuatu. Santa Cruz is administered as part of the Solomon Islands. Biologically these islands share more in common with Vanuatu. The Spanish navigator Alvaro de Mendana de Neira tried unsuccessfully to establish a colony here in 1595. This afternoon onshore, best available transport was waiting for us – open trucks with slabs of wood perched on the rear tray, ready for us to traverse the interior of the island to visit Noipe village. Joined by the Honorable Jocelyn, the regional tourism minister, and escorted by local security, we felt like royalty – all bar a windswept one. Not even the sprinkle of ‘liquid sunshine’ could dampen our spirits. On arrival a surprise warrior attack soon took our minds off our scruffy appearance. Heartfelt welcome speeches were to follow, along with the giving of dried breadfruit and refreshing coconuts. Ushered to the dance arena, village leaders and chiefs circled the traditional dance pole and showcased their prized red feather money. Feather money is used in Santa Cruz as a form of currency for settling important obligations (though now Solomon Islands currency is also used for this purpose). This currency, known as tevau, is formed as coils resembling long belts. It is solely used as currency. It is used to make payments to a bride's family, for purchasing pigs and large canoes. The manufacture of the feather coils is limited to just a few hereditary specialists, working on one island, who are thought to receive their skills from spirits. One man locates the small scarlet honeyeater birds (Myzomela cardinalis) living in the rain forest, and traps them using sticky perches. He then plucks the feathers from their heads, breasts and backs. A double coil of currency may consist of around 50-60,000 red feathers. Another man assembles the platelets from which the coils are composed. Using sap from a shrub as an adhesive he glues together grey pigeon feathers using a wooden gauge to check that each platelet is the correct size. A narrow strip of red feathers is then glued onto each platelet. The currency binder assembles the platelets using a fibre cord base. The platelets are overlapped so just the red feathers are visible. The finished piece may be decorated with strings of seeds, shells, and turtle-shell, and attached to a ring of bark. The value of a coil is dependent on its condition - newly made vivid coloured examples are most valuable. The coils are wrapped in leaves and bark cloth for storage. We were then asked to move to the next station, an undercover area with a hive of activities on display from food making to basket weaving demonstrations. We enjoyed leisure time with the villagers, some of the agile amongst us taking up the challenge of a soccer match. To keep good relations for future visits, the local team was assured of a win. Back at the landing site we scoop up two new guests, that will be joining us on the journey to the Duff Islands. We were honoured to be sailing with Dr Simon Salopuka, the executive director of Vaka Taumako Project of Solomon Islands (aka Vaka Valo Group) and Heuionalani (Miff) Wyeth, Permanent Secretary - The Pacific Traditions Society. After dinner we joined Miff in the Lecture Room for the premier release of the first part of the ‘Vaka Taumako Project – We, the voyages’ documentary. Truly a memorable evening. We all felt privileged to view how the Nga Taumako began building a traditional Tepuke (ocean-going canoes) in 1996, inspired by the few old men and women who still remembered how to construct and sail these craft. We learnt about the legend that guides them in reviving this skill, re-establishing a traditional economy based on trade and social networks that was created by generations of their forebears, and how youngsters have now started learning ancestral seafaring skills to retrace old sea roads. Amazingly enough we will have the chance to view a completed Tepuke, tomorrow, on our arrival into the Duff Islands, and the island of Taumako – we can’t wait!
The forests of Santa Cruz are notoriously quiet, hard work, and full of myths. However, our local guide told us that his family’s island held some ‘rare birds’ and with some time on hand we decided to check out his claims. A tricky Zodiac weave through the rocky shore deposited the birders (and some walkers) on the shore where, over the next hour and a half, they found numerous bizarre Sanford’s White-eyes among great numbers of the cute Santa Cruz White-eye, along with many Cardinal Myzomela and Mackinlay’s Cuckoo-Dove. It turns out our guide was right, and very knowledgeable on his local birds which, as it turns out, includes the near-mythical Santa Cruz Shrikebill. Although we didn’t see the bird on our visit (though a strange call will haunt me for some time to come), his tales of the bird deep in the forest will merit further investigation.
There’s a point I should like to discuss:
From the portraits of Darwin and Wallace
I have a conclusion
To expound evolution
You must grow a beard, alas.
Photo: Heritage Expeditions
Day 7
Duff Islands, Temotu Province, Solomon Islands
Tuesday 01 November 2016
We woke to the rock and roll of the Pacific Ocean this morning and to a standby message for our morning snorkeling program, here in the Duff Islands. Located northeast of Nendo, the isolated Duff Islands are a cluster of 11 small islands situated in the Temotu Province. Some 600+ people live here – other Solomon Islanders regard nga Taumako (the Taumako people), as exotic and mysterious; to outsiders they are all but unknown. Dwelling outside the so-called Polynesian Triangle, a construct of the 19th century French explorer Dumont D’Urville, the islands are but a blip in far oceania, but are soon about to make a mighty impact on the world of ocean-going voyages. Our expedition leader, Nathan, and marine biologist, Courtney, scouted a few sites to ensure our snorkeling experience was both safe and enjoyable. Soon the message was relayed that we would re-position the Spirit of Enderby for an afternoon of snorkeling and village visits leaving the morning open to join Moshe Agami, our resident ecologist, for an interesting presentation on ‘The Rainforests of the World’ in the Lecture Theatre. After lunch, we were soon carefully boarding the zodiacs, paying attention to the large prevailing swell.
Onshore, a pristine white sand beach and projecting coral fingers of Taumako provided the perfect snorkeling site for this afternoon’s excursion. After wading across shallow tidal flats and seagrass beds the reef suddenly appeared and gradually sloped off to deeper waters. It was clearly a nursery ground for various reef fish – most notably juvenile butteflyfish feeding on coral heads. Beneath the caves larger fish were seen schooling and creating colourful curtains to swim through, and across the sand flats a large stingray was observed cruising past. Two local men also joined us to show us the wonders of their home reef.
Soon our zodiac flotilla was heading towards the entry point of Taumako, passing Tohua an artificial island leeward of the main village which is the assembly site of the Vaka Taumako Tepuke project, which we were introduced to the night prior. A sense of excitement greeted us onshore at Ngauta village as we donned our welcome lei and passed through a welcome arch of traditional dancers into the main assembly area ringed by the villages. After welcome speeches from elders, we soon settled on woven pandanus mats to watch the entertainment accompanied by the beat of the resident drum band. Reciprocity is a tradition that is practiced within Melanesia and after we had been treated to songs, dances and ceremonies we thought it only proper for us to reciprocate with a few songs of our own complete with a finale of the ‘Hokey Tokey. Before our departure Dr Simon had invited us to view the completed Tepuke and meet the principal investigator Marianne ‘Mimi’ George, Ph.D. Both would be sailing shortly to Vanuatu based on prevailing winds.
The Duff Islands, being a small group in the middle of the Pacific with no real forest birds, hold limited birding interest. However throughout the day the birders pushed on and found some great Palm Lorikeets giving superb views, normally a tough bird, and an absolute bounty of Cardinal Myzomelas.
Moshe is a very brave chap
As I noticed between listening and a nap
I could almost sob
Just to see the globe
With New Zealand outside the map!
Vacca is the Spanish for cow
And I started to wonder by now:
To sail like this
On all the salt seas –
All I can say is wow!
Photo: Heritage Expeditions
Day 8
Vanikoro, Solomon Islands
Wednesday 02 November 2016
Our entry into Vanikoro’s five islands was surrounded by a dramatic barrier reef, which had claimed the French explorer Jean- François de La Pérouse vessels La Boussole and Astrolabe, when he had mysteriously disappeared on his 1788 ‘Voyage around the World’. Later in the afternoon on our zodiac cruise we would take time to visit the monument to Le Perouse, erected by fellow explorer Dumont Durville in 1827. Some 1,000+ people inhabit Vanikoro, a mix of Melanesian and Polynesians originating from nearby Tikopia. We were soon ashore and enjoying the company of Chief Christian and wife Stella who welcomed us into Usili Village, a breakaway family unit who settled on traditional land during the 1980’s. Whilst some of us took up the opportunity to head off bird watching others took to the island paths weaving through gardens past giant taro, swamp taro, sweet potato (kumara), pigs, local houses expertly lead by Moshe. After lunch we were invited to join Chief Chris Albert Ramuli at Buma Village. The delight on our faces as the traditional dancers enter the arena was reward enough for the chief as he takes great pride in explaining the unique dances and activities that lay before us. The curious mythological appearance of the Tamate dancers, shrouded in banana fibre, topped with colourful masks hiding the dancers below is certainly one of the highlights of our trip. Soon we were toasting the dance with a shell of kava (our first for the trip), expertly pondered in front of us, and trying our hand at weaving intricate wall divides and sleeping mats, made out of coconut palm fronds. Most to be re-fashioned by the expert local hands given our unsteady ‘kava’ hands. Kava is a type of drink made from the ground roots of the plant Piper methysticum and Kava is used for medicinal, religious, political, cultural and social purposes throughout the Pacific Ocean cultures of Polynesia, including Hawaii, Vanuatu, Melanesia and some parts of Micronesia. Kava-drinking rituals help to strengthen ties among groups, to reaffirm status and rank in the community, and to communicate with the spirits.
Vanikoro proved to be very tough for the birders today. Battling dry, hot conditions and a constant buffering wind they pushed on to the usually-reliable site for Vanikoro Monarch only to find what was previously pristine closed-canopy forest is now over-logged and less than ideal habitat. The Monarch proved impossible to find, despite a lengthy search of sites new and old. With the wind constantly buffering the coast, the white-eye also proved absent. However, we did note more than 30 Vanikoro Flying Fox around the village, and later in the afternoon on our Zodiac cruise we saw more than 100 of these previously thought to be extinct mammals, along with a huge wader roost that included at least half a dozen Bristle-thighed Curlews.
My advice I shall not conceal
And sincerely I make my appeal:
Don’t fool with llana
And beware of Mandana
Lest the fish will make you their meal
Photo: Heritage Expeditions
Photo: Heritage Expeditions
Day 9
Vanua Lava – Sola, Banks Islands Vanuatu
Thursday 03 November 2016
This morning we arrive into Vanuatu at the northern outpost of Vanua Lava, the largest of the Banks Islands, which is crowned by the volcanically active Mt Séré’ama. Once the ship had been cleared for port entry, we were soon exploring the provincial town of Sola on foot. The birders headed for the hills into ‘the bush’ with the remainder of us being led by the passionate Ricky Simeon Mol and wife Olivet, the local tourism representative. Departing from Sola Yacht Club, owned by Robert Issacarh, we walked past government offices and the well-appointed sporting arena to the kustom house tucked away in a mangrove bay, we were welcomed by Chief Melkio into his village of Nereqon. Expecting a low key welcome, we were surprised with the extent of the program including women and men welcome dancers, demonstrations of bamboo weaving for walls, food preparation with nangai nut husking, basket weaving and kava making (by now we’ve become expert tasters). Those eager to learn more about the secrets of the mangroves joined Moshe for a nature walk, before heading back for lunch onboard the Spirit of Enderby.
After a false start this morning the birders eventually had a bit of a break from forest searches and made their way along the shore finding plentiful life to keep them happy. Among what they found were Vanuatu Honeyeaters, Tanna and Red-bellied Fruit Doves, Vanuatu White-eye and lots of Pacific Emerald Doves and Mackinlay’s Cuckoo-Doves.
The afternoon assured us the opportunity to dip into the waters off a private island just around the corner from Sola, with pristine white sand beach and tri-coloured blue water. Directly off the beach patches of reef littered the sand and as the depth gradually increased large formations of table and other stony coral stretched across the site. To everyone’s delight, numerous stingrays were observed in amongst the reef and on the sandy slopes including a cowtail stingray, blue-spotted ribbontail ray, and thorny stingrays. With near-perfect timing our snorkel ended as the current started to pick up and it was time to head back to the ship.
If you have a bad dog, you might,
Let him eat garlic each night
If you’re full of resource –
The idea of course:
His bark will be worse than his bite.
(dedicated to all dogs of Solomon Islands and Vanuatu)
Photo: Heritage Expeditions
Photo: Heritage Expeditions
Day 10
Espiritu Santo, Vanuatu 2016
Friday 04 November 2016
The birders left on a final early morning run this morning, leaving around 5am to make their way to Vathe Conservation Area. Along the way they made several stops finding Vanuatu Kingfisher, Tanna Fruit Dove, South Melanesian Cuckooshrike and of most interest an unidentified all-dark rail that looked most similar to Woodford’s Rail – certainly not a Spotless Crake or Buff-banded Rail. At the forest we found a deadening cacophony of Melanesian Whistlers, a bevvy of Fan-tailed Gerygone, Tanna and Red-bellied Fruit Doves, Grey and Streaked Fantails and further along the road Collared Kingfisher and the local race of Glossy Swiftlet.
Espiritu Santo (Spanish for ‘the Holy Spirit’) is the largest of Vanuatu's islands (3677 km2) and is home to some of the most beautiful white sand beaches in the entire world. We were soon partaking in the pleasures of one of these pristine beaches, voted as one of the world’s top ten beaches, the white soft sand and clear blue waters of Champagne Beach took our breath away – coupled with the tipple of the delightful Allan Scott Sparkling wine, served up by our expedition team. Several of the best marine interactions of the whole trip occurred here, with a green sea turtle, two very large humphead (napoleon) wrasses, octopus, sea snake, and numerous other fish species, all cruising around with us. The scene as a whole could not be more picture perfect and everyone struggled to leave. Certainly a heart starter for the remainder of the day’s activities that included joining Suzanne in the Lecture Room for ‘Cargo Cult Kustom’ followed by an afternoon bus tour exploring Santo.
Heading towards Luganville, the provincial capital, we stopped at a cultural centre to be introduced to a kustom dance, fire making, cooking demo and kava tasting (some of us now advancing to more than one shell). The highlight of the visit was the Magical Water Music performance. This was an amazing display of percussion where water is the instrument. In traditional dress – including arm bands and headwear made from flowers and leaves – the ladies from the remote, northern tropical islands of Vanuatu waded up to their waist to perform mystical water music, unique to this isolated Banks and Torres region. During WW11, particularly after the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbour, the island was used by Allied forces as a military supply and support base, naval harbor, and airfield. In highly fictionalised form, it is the locale of James Michener’s ‘Tales of the South Pacific’ and the subsequent Rogers and Hammerstein musical, South Pacific. After visiting million-dollar point, named for its worth after thousands of tons of US construction equipment was dumped into the sea after WWII, we headed into town for a stop at the colorful local food market before ending at the Matevulu Blue Lagoon. The crystal-clear, deep blue pools are fed by a freshwater spring and are unique to Vanuatu. The Western half of the island of Santo features a large and high volcanic mountain range, whilst the eastern half has more flat terrain with limestone on top of volcanic rock. When it rains the water from the mountains flow underground into the limestone caves towards the east corroding the limestone to create underground streams. The streams resurge back to the surface in coastal areas creating fresh water springs. Water in nature owes its blueness to the absorption of red in the colour spectrum. The deeper and more pure the water, the bluer the water will appear to be. As the water in a blue hole is filtered underground through limestone it becomes close to pure. This combined with the depth of each blue hole, create the luminous blue colour. Today the blue was more green – but still a wonderful way to end our exploration of Santo, as we depart by zodiac along the canal, returning to the Spirit of Enderby, as dusk settled on the waterways. This evening at recap, one of the guests, Edward John, entertained us with songs form the musical – South Pacific.
Yigal told us secrets of life
There’s a snail that without any knife
Can take its eyes out
And then ask, no doubt,
‘please put an eye on my wife’.
Day 11
Ambrym Island, Vanuatu
Saturday 05 November 2016
The island of Ambrym owes its name to Captain Cook who anchored off there in 1774. It means “here are yams” (ham rim in Ranon language). Ambrym is first and foremost the “black” island due to its volcanic ash and because of its ‘black magic’ steeped in mystery. In the villages, the ancient customs play a significant part in day to day living. The “Man blong Majik” are treated with the utmost respect and practice sorcery and magic beyond all imaginings. In addition to the two volcanoes, Marum and Benbow, Ambrym prides itself on some unique characteristics, such as the sculpted tam-tams (slit gongs), sand-drawing, fern masks and local dances. The ‘best available’ transport today was shanks-pony (our own feet). Some sixty minutes later, we were rising up to the village of Ranon, lead by our local guide John Willie. Prior to entering the dance arena, he advised us of the necessary protocol and etiquette we must follow whilst visiting the village and sacred ground. The tension in the air was soon broken as the rhythmic sound of stomping feet and magnificent tam-tams heralded the arrival of the Rom dancers as they begin their loud chanting and elaborate performance. The air was heavy with ancestral spirits as the dancers, donned with brightly coloured masks, hidden beneath dried banana leaf cloaks, float along the sacred ground, called the nasara. Within the inner sanctum accompanying men wear only a penis sheath called a namba and a flower in their hair that demonstrates their high social status. The most striking custom dance we had seen this trip, the Rom dance is traditionally an exclusive male event and kept very secret. The outfits normally worn for the dance are destroyed immediately it is finished so the spirits won’t haunt the dancers. John Willie did mention a few of the dancers now keep a number of masks separate from the traditional outfits to allow use for visitors like ourselves, ensuring they appease the spirits at the same time. A complex highly formalized system of intellectual property rights, men continue to this day, to sell the rights to others that want to learn how to make the costume, mask and participate in the Rom dance. Each initiate negotiates a payment of pigs, rooster feathers and money to his mentor for the privilege. Like a good stage performance - it maintains costume production standards and preserves local culture. After intricate sand drawing and a mesmerizing magic performance we had time for group photos and artefact buying, all the while minding we did not touch the sacred Rom dancers. What a morning! What a finale!
Ambrym is most interesting for its human/cultural aspects, but we still managed to find Island Thrush for the birders.
Following an amazing morning we spent the afternoon enjoying the waters around Ambrym. Directly to the left of our landing point, a narrow reef dominated by boulders and black sand extended across the edge of the island. It was host to a variety of interesting marine animals including a large stonefish tucked under an overhang and a finger of reef completely covered in anemones and commensal fish. The great visibility also allowed us to look out for the elusive dugongs of the region, but despite the mown seagrass patches and brief topside sighting we lucked-out on an underwater encounter.
Early evening, we join Nathan and the expedition team for our final recap and photographic slideshow that encapsulated our time here in Melanesia.
Musicals I can hear on and on
And there’s one that stands all alone
To be specific
It’s South Pacific
And especially performed by John
Day 12
Port Vila, Vanuatu
Sunday 06 November 2016
With over 1209 nautical miles covered and 20 expedition stops over a 12-day period, we certainly feel we have found some of the secrets that Melanesia can offer and travelled to places that no other expedition ships dare goes. No need to turn our tags today as we depart the Spirit of Enderby today bound for Port Vila, bidding farewell to the Spirit of Enderby Crew and the Heritage Expedition team.
Now that our voyage is through
I have a problem, I do,
Not one but plenty
Like, between twelve and twelve twenty
What am I supposed to do?
~ Melanesian Limericks – thanks to Yoram
Expedition Staff: Nathan Russ (Expedition Leader), Cath Stone (Hotel Manager), Suzanne Noakes (culture), Lisle Gwyn (birds), Courtney Rayes (marine), Moshe Agmat (terrestrial) Lindsay Thorpe (chef), Ed Roberts (chef), Walter Ulmer (doctor)
Spirit of Enderby Crew: Captain Igor Kiselev, Chief Mate Vladimir Kolesinkov, 2nd Mate Valentin Drodzov, 3rd Mate Kirill Buriachek, Chief Engineer Konstantin (Kosta) Zograf, Radio Officer Aleksandr Dedenev, Chief Electric Engineer Ivan Kondakov, Chief Stewardess Natalia Bogdanova.
