1625: Siberia's Forgotten Coast 24 Jun 2016
Day 1: 24 June 2016 By 1300, all luggage was delivered to the appropriate cabins. Any morning birding with onboard lecturer/guide Chris Collins was affected by the unseasonably warm weather which kept the birds quiet. It was just too hot for avian arias. At 1700 we joined owner/founder of Heritage Expeditions, and Expedition Leader, Rodney Russ in the lecture room where he gave his introductory briefing and introduced the staff. Just before 1800, we received the good news that we had authority to depart via the Harbour Authority. At 1830 we dropped off the Harbour Pilot and the voyage began.
Chefs Lindsay and Connor delivered the first of a series of stunning meals to set the standard for the trip. We sailed north into a moderate swell en route to Zhupanova River. The day concluded with the ‘Chris and Lisle Show’ recording all the birds and mammals seen during the day in the trip Bird and Mammal List.
Photo credit: M.Kelly
Day 2: 25 June 2016
Zhupanova River
Early morning found us off the Zhupanova River, our first destination. After an early breakfast we gathered in the lecture room to hear Rodney’s informative briefing that preceded our Zodiac cruise up the river at 0830. Zhupanova River is a broad waterway with lush, fringing vegetation and mature trees in which warblers, skylarks, pipits and finches were recorded as we motored slowly upstream. A pair of terns were encountered perched just above the river. The high points of the cruise were the sightings of a flight of whooper swans, 9 species of waterfowl, about 8 Steller’s sea eagles, one by its nest in a large tree by the river bank causing camera shutters to rattle like Gatling guns! For those interested in mammals, a single muskrat was seen and curious Largha seals bobbed about in the river like drifting buoys. By 1230 we were back aboard for lunch. At 1530 the general emergency signal sounded for Lifeboat Drill when we were required to don lifejackets and visit the lifeboats for mandatory drill. All aboard, the engine was fired up and puttered away reassuringly for a few seconds. By this time our course had been set for the Commander Islands (Bering and Medney Is), our next destination. At 1700 Rodney gave an interesting and informative briefing on the islands and our programme for tomorrow. Next venue, the Bar, followed by another sumptuous meal from Lindsay and Connor. As is customary as the last act of the day, many expeditioners joined guides/lecturers Chris and Lisle who put together the daily bird and mammal list.
Kayak Log:
Conditions were great for our first paddle with very little wind and swell but with overcast skies. We paddled from the ship to Morzhovoye Lezhbishche Rocks to view the larga and harbour seals hauled out there and to see our first sea otters of the trip. After circumnavigating the rocks we paddled to a small cove to the west of Yuzhnyy Point for a short break before heading around Yuzhnyy and Zhupanova Points and into the main river system. Passing the salmon fishery we had a short paddle around the estuary before running with the outgoing tide back to the ship. At one stage we hit 7 knots paddling back to the ship!
Distance: 19.1km
Photo credit: M.Kelly
Photo credit: G.Tsidulko
Photo credit: G.Tsidulko
Day 3: 26 June 2016
Commander Islands (Bering Is)
The Commander Islands lie at the northern end of the Kurile Trench, an area of intense upwelling and productivity, the ideal place to see both whales and seabirds. At 0600 the keenest birders were on the bridge and 25 minutes later Martin had spotted a humpback whale about 200m ahead of the ship. In the next 70 minutes we had seen about 7-10 humpback whales. At 0830 Rodney and Katya went ashore with all our passports to discuss our proposed landings on the Commander Islands with the Border Guards. Officials satisfied, we boarded the Zodiacs and minutes later were ashore at Nikol’skoye where we met Olga Balanovich, a local marine mammal expert and her two children. We made our way to the local museum where we were introduced to Olga’s mother, a noted local historian, who gave us a guided tour of the museum and talked about the life and exploits of the Dane Vitus Bering, after whom the island was named. The exhibits were fascinating and included a waterproof kayaking suit made from sea lion gut by Aleuts, Bering expedition artifacts, a history of fur seal and sea otter exploitation, ivory Aleut carvings, and a skeleton of a Steller’s sea cow. This extraordinary animal was the largest of the Sirenians, a group of animals including the extant tropical manatees and dugongs, with a maximum length of about 9.0m. and estimated maximum weight of about 8 tonnes. It fed on kelp in the shallows and was readily accessible. The last surviving population of Steller’s sea cow was discovered in 1741 at the Commander Islands by Europeans (Bering’s expedition members who hunted them for food) and was extinct 27 years later. From the museum we visited the studio of Sergei a local artist whose studio contains a wonderfully eclectic collection of artifacts from the area –including a fully articulated skeleton of Steller’s sea cow slung from the rafters. At 1230 we all returned to the ship which set a course for North Cape where the birding is apparently excellent. The sea swell at the cape was too high for Zodiac cruising so we turned south for Arij Karmen Island. Again, weather and sea conditions did not allow zodiacs to be launched and we continued on around Monati Pt. and north to Commander Bay (where Vitus Bering is buried) with an eta at 0500 tomorrow morning. This was an amazing day for wildlife observations. We recorded eight sea otters, eight Steller’s sea lions, one northern fur seal, two Dall’s porpoise, one sperm whale, and 30-70 humpback whales and 32 species of land and seabirds. 
Photo credit: G.Tsidulko
Day 4: 27 June 2016
Peschanaya Bay, Medney Island.
All those going ashore were up and dressed for an early start. At 0530 three Zodiacs landed at Commander Bay the site of Vitus Bering’s camp and grave and the graves of his crew. We landed in light rain and walked to the grave site through the tall grass and sedges. Rhododendrons, primulas and other wildflowers were plentiful – as were the mosquitos which we found can bite through woollen hats, two layers of Icebreakers and some said denim jeans were no protection. The grave site was in good condition and marked by Russian Orthodox crosses. Walking back to the beach a single Arctic fox appeared on a log, the only sign of mammalian life ashore.
At 0645 all the zodiacs were back aboard and stowed for the short trip to Medney Island and Peschnaya Bay. After a welcome breakfast, birders and others took up their customary positions at the bridge windows, binoculars at the ready. We reached the very picturesque Preobrazhenskaya Harbour at about 1100 and dropped anchor. Medney Island is a nature preserve and we hoped to get good views of puffins and other seabirds along the cliffs surrounding the harbour. We landed at the head of the bay where the foundations and other remnants of buildings stood beside a small stream. The island was settled by Aleuts during the Soviet period. Medney is the Russian word for copper and this area was the site of copper mines. Little remains to give any indication of this activity except two rather folorn graveyards and some ex military defensive sites found along the cliff tops. No brown bears were seen however small black Arctic foxes were lurking about up on the screes. From 1300 we Zodiac cruised the waters at the base of the spectacular cliffs for the next two hours seeing Horned and tufted puffins, pidgeon guillemots, parakeet auklets and sea otters. By 1500 we were back aboard the Spirit of Enderby for a late lunch and for some of the early risers, a welcome snooze. The captain set a course for Karaginskiy Island our next destination lying 295 nautical miles north.
Kayak Log:
It was overcast with some rain this morning but otherwise conditions were great inside Peschanaya Bay for a paddle. We paddled from the ship east along the coastline weaving between rocks, exploring caves and enjoying the multitude of birds flying overhead and nesting on the cliff faces. Sea otters with pups popped up to say hello and harbour seals watched us glide by, as we turned and headed back west passed the landing site and along a waterfall lined cliff face. More sea otters emerged from the kelp as we turned and headed back to the ship. Awesome paddle!
Distance: 11.4km 
Photo credit: M.Kelly
Photo credit: K.Ovsyanikova
Photo credit: C.Collins
Day 5: 28 June 2016
Karaginskiy Island.
Our steaming time to Karaginskiy Island left the morning clear for two important lectures by Elena Lappo and her husband Evgeny Syroechkovskiy, leaders of the Spoon bill sandpiper project. Elena spoke about the genesis of the project and the scientific work undertaken to date and was followed by Sergei who discussed the current decline of migratory bird species and the probable reasons for the declines. This was sobering stuff, particularly the impacts on these birds by human activities, both legal and illegal. In the latter case the scale of trapping, for whatever reason, is of great concern. After another magnificent lunch whipped up by chefs Lindsay and Connor, all of us went to the lecture room to hear Rodney’s briefing on Karaginskiy Island. The island is relatively flat rising to high land at the northern end. In years past it used to be a military outpost however these days the main activity appears to be salmon fishing. At 1430 we went ashore landing on the beach in rain and mist. A quick divide saw us in separate groups, those birding and those walking and set off over the tundra, each group accompanied by a staff member armed with a flare gun and bear spray. Bears have been reported on the island in the past, but fortunately none were in our vicinity today. Martin accompanied Antonina back to the landing and there they met and were photographed with the local fishermen tending an immense fishtrap for salmon. At 1515 the zodiacs began ferrying people back to the Spirit of Enderby. Martin and Rodney stayed on the beach handling the boats until about 1840 when the last boat went back to the ship.
The birders scored and impressive number of species including: eleven species of waterfowl, four waders, eleven species of sea birds, three ravens, skylarks and warblers, thrushes, blue throats and Siberian ruby throats, wagtails, pipits redpolls and buntings. Those interested in mammals reported three red foxes, one Eurasian otter, largha seals, harbour porpoises and Dall’s porpoise. All up, an impressive total on a day when conditions were far from ideal. Maxim’s birthday party enlivened dinner and continued in the bar/library with Evgeny and Elena singing popular Russian ballads until after midnight. Good Russian vodka is an excellent lubricant for the vocal cords.
Kayak Log:
We headed off from the anchorage and winds increased to 15 knots so we hugged the coastline and paddled NE up the beach as far as a small hut that we sheltered inside as the rain started to come down. As the rain stopped we got back into the kayaks and, watched by few bemused harbour seals, launched back through the waves and paddled down the coast to the ship passing a lone sea otter and groups of horned puffins flying overhead.
Distance: 10.2km
Photo credit: G.Tsidulko
Day 6: 29 June 2016
Goven Peninsula, Verkhoturova Island, Kamchatka.
At 0430 after looking carefully at the sea conditions the decision was made not to attempt landing at Verkhoturova Island, a good spot for all types of auks, because of the heavy swell. Soon after, we were on course for the Goven Peninsula and Cape Peschnayy. At Rodney’s 0830 briefing he explained how the slow moving low pressure system to the east was the cause of N to NE winds of 15-20 knots which were the cause of the heavy swells we have been experiencing. He went on to explain that we are now in the Koryak region which is very remote and the local people have a subsistence existence based on fishing and reindeer herding. At 1030 we boarded Zodiacs for a short cruise along the coast off C.Peschnaya with the chance of seeing bears. A few bears were seen but at long range up the scree slopes. At 1330 we were back aboard for lunch while the vessel headed south toward the fabled “Bear Gully”. The Spirit of Enderby dropped anchor not far from the wreck of a trawler hard up on a large reef. The hull is hogged and split through from deck level to below the waterline. The aluminium bridge is completely rotted away on the seaward side and the vessel is a nesting habitat for Glaucus and black backed gulls. We zodiac cruised south along the coast to Bear Gully passing with the odd clunk the dozens of large rocks close to shore. We landed at Bear Gully and walked as a group up a bear track parallel to the stream and climbed onto a low plateau with a commanding view of three valleys feeding into the creek near us. There we all sat down to wait in the light rain for Rodney’s promised bears. All were looking inland wondering when bears would show up when suddenly a young brown bear appeared 35m behind us on the seaward side. As it appeared to get more inquisitive, Katya stepped in and fired a flare in its direction and the animal cantered off inland. A quick head count was made of those wishing to return to the ship. By about 2045 all were back aboard and in the bar where excited chatter was the best gauge of the quality of the day. The brown bear total for the day was a wonderful seventeen.
Kayak Log:
Conditions were perfect for a long paddle down the Goven Peninsula with N to NE winds and an outgoing tide so we headed off from the ship at Peschnayy and set a course south looking for bears. We found them! Ten by the end of the paddle. The first two we came across were feeding from a carcass that had washed up on the beach and other bears just kept popping up all along the coast. The last sighting was extra special as it was a mum with three cubs strolling along the beach. Some very happy (but tired) kayakers arrived at Cape Primetnyy to rendezvous with the ship.
Distance: 33.8km
Photo credit: G.Tsidulko
Photo credit: M.Kelly
Day 7: 30 June 2016
Tintikun Lagoon, Koryak Coast.
At 0530 the Captain dropped anchor off Tintikun lagoon. Persistent rain was falling as five zodiacs entered the passage into the lagoon where we were 'landed' so the boats could proceed up the very shallow passage. We re-boarded the zodiacs where the water was deep enough. The boats cruised along the shore as far as a warm mineral spring occasionally frequented by bears. The brave, including Elena, Jan and Dr Joricke, led by chef Connor, plunged into the 9ºC water of the lagoon then luxuriated in the relatively hot water of the pool. We proceeded to the head of the lagoon where we got superb photo opportunities of a couple of bears at close range. Following that we cruised back through the rain and mist to the ship for lunch. All were back aboard for lunch at 1220. After lunch we cruised up Lavrova Bay passing an old K Class trawler hard aground on a rock close to shore. Farther on, we landed at the site of an old Soviet era fishing operation and roamed around looking at the abandoned equipment, old beds, and machinery. The place was a complete mess which looked as if at some stage people left in a hurry leaving the buildings and contents like a “Marie Celeste” of junk. By 1530 we were back aboard and a couple of hours later Megan’s Sea Shop was doing a brisk trade. The Bar opened at 1800 and was followed by yet another fantastic meal prepared by Lindsay and Connor.
Kayak Log:
Overcast conditions greeted us but with no wind it was time to get back into the kayaks and enjoy the morning at Tintikun Lagoon. We paddled from the ship up a short river mouth and into the lagoon passing a one bear on shore and one swimming across the river. We followed the northern shoreline of the lagoon before we found another bear right at the waters edge. Floating just offshore we spent 30 minutes watching that bear make his way around the lagoon feeding on the grasses that were along the bank. After a brief stop, and swim in our drysuits, at the hot springs we continued paddling along the southern shoreline before returning to the ship.
Distance: 17.1km
Photo credit: G.Tsidulko
Photo credit: K.Ovsyanikova
Day 8: 1 August 2016
Koryak Coast
At 0400 strong winds, fog and a heavy swell made our primary landing site impossible. Decision was made to proceed to Pettr Bay. The adjacent bays are Pavla, and Bukhta Natalie where we should find some protection from the wind and swell and may be able to land. At 0900 we joined Chris in the lecture room for a lecture on Migrant Birds in the Russian Far East. At 1100 we had another illuminating lecture from Grisha on Grey whales of the Russian Far East. Our search for a good anchorage had us rounding Bogoslova Island and heading for Bukhta Natalie. Connor and Lindsay made an excellent lunch and at about 1300 we dropped anchor in Pavla Bay. There we had a briefing from Rodney who separated us into two groups, those wanting a hard walk with him over the hill dividing the two bays, or those looking for a softer walk along the river at the head of the bay with some birding thrown in. Most chose the latter and the Zodiacs dropped the two groups at their starting points. From 1700 shuttles ran people back to the ship. By 1900 all walkers were back aboard and enjoying a well earned drink in the bar before dinner in 1:00 hour.
The day wound up with a very amusing edition of the “Chris and Lisle Show”.
Photo credit: M.Kelly
Photo credit: M.Kelly
Day 9: 2 July
Glubokaya Bay, Koryak Coast.
At 0515 the anchor was lifted and we moved to a better anchorage in Glubokaya (Deep) Bay. At 0915 we departed on a Zodiac cruise of the bay. The scenery was staggeringly beautiful. Soaring saw-toothed ridges to spectacular peaks and scenery everywhere we looked. After an hour or so we had a moment to remember, the sun peeked through the grey cloud and was followed by some blue sky being the first we had seen in a long while. Everywhere we went the largha seals popped up like corks ahead of us, harlequin ducks, scoters, tufted and horned puffins flapped out of our way. Four or five bears were seen along the shores. The Zodiacs returned at 1230 for lunch. Chef Connor had made a magnificent bacon and egg pie which went down well. In the mid-afternoon we made a landing in Bukhta Natalia a large square ended bay with heavily wooded shores. We landed at the head of the bay by a small stream. Not far up stream were the derelict buildings from Soviet era occupation. Steam boilers and winches, lay about near belt drive wheels, abandoned Soviet era trucks, the usual run of processing sheds and accommodation buildings with broken windows and rusting iron framed beds. Further up stream were the Border Guard buildings and a tall rusting watch tower. The Border Guard buildings were of log cabin construction, covered outside with wooden strips plastered over with rough, peeling mortar. Inside, the rooms were small with single iron frame beds. Each habitation had a large bricked stove for heating. The floors were strewn with cigarette packets and some depressing modern evidence of modern occupation, plastic syringes and graffiti We divided into two groups, one for local birding and exploring, and the other for a longer walk up the valley. By 1700 the first group were keen to return to the ship. By this time a brisk wind was blowing down the valley and the waves onshore had become unpleasant. By 1900 the last boats were back to the ship into the bar and then down to the restaurant for another excellent meal.
Kayak Log:
Conditions were overcast with sunny patches and about 10 knots of wind. Firstly we paddled up into the wind to get across the fjord and into Imatra Bay. We followed the northern coastline down to the river at the end of the bay and the southern coastline back, passing larga seals lounging on rocks and many a waterfall. After exiting Imatra Bay we crossed Glubokaya Bay to the northeastern side and followed the coastline back to the ship. One bear was seen and many a horned puffin nesting on the cliffs.
Distance: 15.9km
Photo credit: M.Kelly
Photo credit: M.Kelly
Day 10: 3 July 2016
Opuka Lagoon
Our objective today was to look for grey whales around the entrance to Opuka Lagoon and waterfowl inside. We were not planning a landing at the site of a former military base near the entrance but it was advised that we still wear gumboots. As it happened, some people did land to photograph the crumbling buildings. We returned to the ship at 1130 before disembarking to take part in an excellent Zodiac cruise seeing grey whales, beluga and many bird species. At 1330 the bird groups mustered and boarded Zodiacs to survey specific areas for spoon billed sandpipers. The zodiacs went away with 22 passengers who were to survey three areas around the lagoon. Rodney advised the ship that due to a slightly late departure they would be unlikely to return before 1500. Some time after, we heard that a zodiac was stuck fast with a falling tide on a sand bank which meant they would await a tide change between 7 and 8pm. Eventually, the boats made it back to the ship and we were pleased to learn that the birds sought had been found but in small numbers. At 2030 the last boat was aboard and the chatter and laughter in the bar signaled a successful trip.
Kayak Log:
5 to10 knots of wind and some ground swell greeted us this morning so we donned drysuits and headed out for another paddle along this amazing coast. Gray whales are what this lagoon mouth is famous for and we found them. Around eight in total with three belugas was the final count with both species ending up only meters from the kayaks at different times. We also run the bar and had a stop at an abounded fishing camp to stretch the legs. A playful larga seal with both flippers on the deck of the kayak topped of an awesome paddle.
Distance: 15.6km
Photo credit: M.Kelly
Photo credit: M.Kelly
Photo credit: M.Kelly
Day 11: 4 July 2016
Meinypil’gyno
The ship was lying at anchor 4 miles offshore in 8.3m of water. The morning was cold, wet and foggy. At 0830 Chris and Lisle ran over the bird list and 30 minutes later two groups left in Zodiacs to see walrus and other marine mammals and were back aboard at 1045. Rodney and Katya went ashore to talk with the Border Guards about our proposed landing in Meinypil’gyno to visit the museum and see a cultural show. After an early lunch we boarded the Zodiacs and went up the channel to the town. The town is sited on an immense gravel spit and is, as far as we could see, entirely devoid of trees. What vegetation there is grows either in pots or in portable green houses on skids. The young museum curator gave us an enlightening tour of the museum after which we made our way to the “Club” a large building well set up with a large stage. We were met at the door by the young Chukchi performers and encouraged to dress up in traditional clothing for photographs. We then moved into the hall and were treated to the most superb show of dancing, singing and throat singing, all in the Chukchi language by these super talented young people. The show over we were given tea and dried fish, and salmon caviar and had a chance to talk with the performers. We reluctantly said our farewells and made our way back to the Zodiacs guarded by the Chief engineer, Kosta, who was surrounded by a large group of local school kids all eager to try out their English – which was creditably good.
We set off down the channel for the entrance, passing many huge beach seine nets set for salmon. At the entrance we passed through the tide race which was the focus for hundreds of kittywakes, vega and glaucous gulls. Hundreds of Largha seals filled the entrance bobbing about like mooring buoys and feeding on the salmon moving upstream.
Obliging grey whales gave us plenty of photo opportunities before we got back aboard.
The next operation was to transfer the quad bike from the boat deck onto a Zodiac for delivery to Evgeny’s spoon billed sandpiper team ashore. What seemed initially like a daunting task was carried out simply, with the minimum of heart-stopping moments. The bike was secured on the zodiac and off they went, accompanied by Max, Connor, Grisha and Judd to provide the muscle to get the bike ashore at the other end. According to the ‘lifters’ it was easier than they anticipated and the job was done.
Another successful day.
Photo credit: M.Kelly
Day 12: 5 July 2016
Meinypil’gyno, Pika River walrus
After breakfast we gathered in the lecture room for a briefing by Rodney and Evgeny who has worked on the spoon-billed sandpiper project for 17 years. They outlined what we could possibly see and Evgeny explained that predation on the nests of these birds by both birds and mammals is very high. After the briefing we boarded the zodiacs and travelled to a study area where birds have been observed. With the help of Igor, an English speaking member of the project, we located a known (banded) bird very quickly. Spoon-billed sandpipers are tiny waders, about the size of red necked stints, which they closely resemble, and are easily confused by the layman. The bird is extremely well camouflaged being the same colour as the tundra plants it nests in. To see these birds is a rare privilege, there are only about 200 nesting pairs in existence and as they undertake long annual migrations they are a flagship species for migrating waders. Photographs taken, we walked on along the river looking for other waterfowl spotting geese and Red throated and Pacific divers. Three semi-domestic dogs were out on the tundra hunting ground squirrels. Apparently, like elsewhere in the Arctic regions, dogs are often turned out to fend for themselves during summer. These big husky type animals were seemingly having a very successful time. We visited Pika Bay and lay offshore while we zodiac cruised the coast watching a big colony of walrus, many of which would come quite close to the zodiacs. An added bonus was we seemed to have found a gray whale “kindergarten” with mothers and calves rolling about very close to the boats. At 2015 the zodiacs were back aboard and the Spirit of Enderby made a course for Anadyr, our final destination. What a day for all on board!
Kayak Log:
We woke to sunshine and light winds this morning but throughout the paddle the winds did get to 15 knots. We paddled to the eastern side of the river mouth and found some gray whales to play with before following one west, passed the river mouth, and down the coast. We landed the kayaks on the beach and carried them across to the river to catch the outgoing tide back up to the river mouth. After a short stop on land to wait for the tidal stream to moderate we ran the bar, passing three beluga whales, back out to paddle with more gray whales before returning to the ship.
Distance: 18.4km.
Total of 8 paddles for 141.5k
Photo credit: M.Kelly
Photo credit: G.Tsidulko
Photo credit: G.Tsidulko
Day 13: 6 July 2016
Anadyr
This day was devoted to several end-of-voyage activities. Meghan produced a brilliant slide show featuring photographs from many of those on board which was made available to all aboard. We had the last 'Chris and Lisle show' (Bird/Mammal List) and in the afternoon an excellent lecture was held on the Spoon-billed sandpiper Genome project by Dr.Fedor Kondrashov of the University of Barcelona. Apart from being a geneticist, Fedor is also an excellent guitarist and singer. At 1700 were dropped anchor at the Anadyr Pilot Station and in the evening Lindsay and Connor had prepared the most sumptuous carvery type buffet meal as a fitting last meal.
Day 14: 7 July 2016
Anadyr
Today broke as cool, grey morning with light rain falling. The Anadyr River is very wide and the ferry to take us ashore was a very practical and serviceable landing craft with a bow ramp, a roll-on-roll-off. The first of us booked on the Nome flight left the ship at 0733. The Thai contingent were away at 0815, the next at 0930 and the last at1030 leaving Meghan and Connor to look after the vessel. The end of a fantastic trip and one that will provide memories of a lifetime.
