1679: Papua New Guinea Explorer 22 Apr 2016
Day 1
Friday, April 22, 2016
Rapopo Resort, Kokopo
This evening at the lovely Rapopo Plantation Resort in Kokopo, our intrepid travellers gathered oceanside for a specially-prepared welcome buffet of local meats, vegetables, salads and fruit as we reviewed the next day’s planned activities. The adventurers for this expedition hail from the UK, Australia, New Zealand, Germany and the United States.
Tonight we all can relax and recover from our travels and hope to get a good night’s sleep. Tomorrow morning the adventure begins.
Day 2
Saturday, April 23, 2016
Rabaul
Following breakfast this morning, we piled into four local mini buses and set out across town for a morning tour of Kokopo and Rabaul. Our first stop was the East New Britain Historical & Cultural Centre Kokopo Museum, where Japanese and Australian relics from the World War II offered a window into a brutal past.
A short drive later, we passed several ocean-facing Japanese war tunnels, formerly used for artillery storage, and stopped to view an old bunker tunnel housing a very dilapidated WWII barge. Just outside the entrance, glossy swiftlets fluttered overhead as friendly locals set out handmade masks, bags, and jewellery for sale.
For the next stop, our vehicles climbed the crater rim to a seismic monitoring station—also an excellent vantage over Rabaul. Devastated by a volcanic eruption in 1994, the town was buried under more than 3 metres of ash forcing survivors to relocate to nearby Kokopo. Though this tragic event occurred more 22 years ago, thick layers of ash are still found surrounding the Yamamoto Bunker. Here, we descended the narrow staircase for a look inside and tried to imagine what times may have been like then.
En route back to our hotel, we were immersed in the lively Kokopo Public Market to fill our rucksacks with fresh avocados, passion fruit, boiled peanuts and papayas the size of babies.
After a delightful buffet lunch back at the Rapopo Plantation Resort we wandered down to the beach just before 3.00pm to board the zodiacs to be transferred to The Spirit of Enderby, our home for the next 11 days. We were greeted warmly by our Expedition Staff with refreshments and snacks in the Bar/Library after being shown to our cabins. Soon after we were welcomed and briefed formally by the Expedition Team – their introduction certainly had us looking forward to the adventures ahead of us!
Our chefs, Ralf and Connor, cooked us a feast as we chatted about the following days programme with much excitement.
Photo credit: Heritage Expeditions
Day 3
Sunday, April 24, 2016
Jacquinot Bay, New Britain
Overnight we had steamed to Jacquinot Bay, New Britain and anchored just off a small village, Mamakur. As we started loading the zodiacs for a visit to the village we soon realised that we were in for something very special as the singers and dancers were already in action and even from the boat we could make out their elaborate and decorative costumes.
On the pebbly beach we were welcomed with a traditional ‘sing sing’ which was spectacular. The costumes, especially the spirit men, were highly decorative. The stories they told through their singing and dancing were meaningful and breathtaking. Everyone had a smile on his or her face and it felt like a genuine celebration of life – we were certainly welcomed with genuine warmth.
It was hot and humid on the beach with a solution close by. At the back of the beach was a powerful waterfall cutting through the limestone bedrock. The fast flowing water moved parallel to the beach for about 50 metres before turning to the sea. It was in this strip of cool, crystal clear freshwater that seeps out of the limestone bedrock where many of us (and just about all of the local children!) jumped in to cool off.
After the refreshing dip and a slight relocation along the beach, a group of us took a walk into a village community in the rainforest. It was great to see the villages and how the local people tend their crops. We also got some up close experience with tropical rainforest as we climbed on a loop track and sighted a few birds that Chris found in his scope including the moustached treeswift and long-tailed myna.
Once back on board the ship for lunch, we headed off straight for the Trobriand Islands where we base all of tomorrow’s activities. Many passengers enjoyed presentations in the lecture room on PNG birds and cetaceans by Chris followed by Martin’s talk on the world’s tropical rainforests.
Photo credit: H.Ahern
Photo credit: H.Ahern
Day 4
Monday, April 25, 2016 (ANZAC Day)
Kitava, Trobriand Islands
We awoke to another beautiful tropical morning in Papua New Guinea and prepared for our day at Kitava on one of the Trobriand Islands. After a hearty breakfast we boarded the zodiacs and headed across to the beach – quite a sight with quintessential white sand beach, aquamarine water and clear blue skies. We were presented with fragrant frangipani leis that released perfumed scent over the entire visit. It was decided to delay the traditional welcome for when the heat of the day arrived and we could escape and sit under the trees. We therefore split into two groups – one went with Chris Collins (onboard Bird Expert) to find some of the birds, while the other group went with Martin Cohen (Guide/Lecturer) for a walk through the village and up the hill to the United church.
A local guide, Paddy, led us on our walk through the village and he showed us the crops they planted and cultivated, including taro, yams, paw paws and bananas. The local villages always greeted us warmly as we passed them making their way down to the beach. Many were carrying handcrafts such as exquisite woodcarvings in the hope of making a sale after our walk. At the school Paddy told us that the children had the day off because we were on their island. There are over 250 pupils at the school on this island of around 3000.
We continued up the hill pat the chief’s residence and the memorial to his father, the previous chief. Apparently the past chief was a great man who brought peace to the islands and designed this beautiful village so that all the paths between the houses would be lined with frangipani trees. The main path through the village was spectacular with Paddy proudly showed us his hut. We reached the church and village well and then turned round to walk back to the beach. The village was vibrant and the people had obvious pride in where they lived. It was a privilege to be welcomed into their world.
Back at the beach we all had a chance to look at and purchase their crafts, including very high quality ebony woodcarvings, often with mother-of-pearl shell in lays. Soon after it was time for the traditional ‘sing sing’. An area around the beach was cleared and the locals performed time-honoured dances that celebrate fishing and the seasonal yam harvest.
The time went by quickly and we said our farewells and headed back to ship for lunch, many of us with additional souvenirs! After a rest we headed back out in the zodiacs to snorkel and swim in the crystal clear waters around Narutu Island. The visibility was perfect and there were all sorts of fish and coral to be seen. Chris led a bird walk around the island and we saw beach stone curlews, pied imperial pigeons, island imperial pigeons and emerald doves.
The sun was low in the horizon and it was finally time to leave this idyllic tropical paradise and head back to The Spirit of Enderby for our next relocation - across to the Louisiade Archipelago.
Photo credit: Heritage Expeditions
Photo credit: Heritage Expeditions
Photo credit: Heritage Expeditions
Photo credit: H.Ahern
Day 5
Tuesday, April 26, 2016
Eiaus, Misima Island, Loisiade Archipelago
The Louisiade Archipelago is one of the great island arcs of the Pacific Ocean, stretching around 400 kilometres along the northern rim of the Coral Sea. Our morning visit to Eiaus village on Misima Island was not only exciting for us, but also for the locals who have never hosted a visiting ship before. It was difficult to work out who was the most excited!
Immediately following our arrival, traditionally-dressed school children greeted us with a drum-accompanied dance. Different from yesterday’s landing, these costumes were made of grass, palm leaves and plumeria crowns. The local school bus then transported the majority us up the hillside for a trek. While we only spotted a few birds, the views into the ravines were lovely and we enjoyed learning about life in Eiaus from our local guides. The has around 2000 people, including a school with over 1000 students, a pastor and a United church, and is governed by a group of elders. Their main food is yam, taro, bananas, tapioca, paw paw, coconut and saga. They are now also growing some rice and raising cattle.
After lunch, we returned to the village for a very special event hosted by the local school. Row upon row of children filled the courtyard. The choir sang a beautiful three-part harmony about education, which segued into everyone rising to their feet to belt out the Papua New Guinea national anthem. The Head Mistress and village coordinator spoke, followed by a warm thank you by Nathan our Expedition Leader who presented them with a large bucket of toys and school supplies for the children.
It wasn't long before the heavens opened. So much glorious warm rain this afternoon! The villagers shared their umbrellas with us as we meandered down to the sea to observe a family baptism to honour a young couple’s first-born son. This happens after a time of isolation from the rest of the village and it was a privilege that they shared this special moment with us. We followed them back to their home where family members doused them in hot water, painted their faces and dressed them in traditional attire. Their son was then reintroduced to them, wrapped in leaves. To top it off, they offered us the most tender pork stew, rice, purple sweet potato, and fruits following the ceremony.
The tropical downpour continued. Locals and visitors alike, we were all baptised in the most refreshing downpour. En route back to the bus, we puddle jumped with the kids, exchanged endless thank you’s, hugs and handshakes. The children didn’t want us to go, and they ran after the vehicle all the way to our Zodiacs and gathered on shore to wave, cheer and jump into the sea in sheer exuberance. What a day!
Photo credit: H.Ahern
Photo credit: H.Ahern
Photo credit: H.Ahern
Day 6
Wednesday, April 27, 2016
Panapompom
In the equatorial zone of the tropics plans always have to be flexible. This morning the rain gods were against us so our morning expedition to Tagula Island was cancelled due to rough seas and driving rain. Instead we steamed all morning to the D’Entrecasteaux Islands.
While at sea, activities were arranged including the second part of Martin’s talk on the world’s tropical rainforests and the wonderful BBC documentary on the Pacific Islands.
The longest Zodiac ride thus far brought us to a peaceful spit on Panapompom Island this morning. Outrigger canoes peppered the horizon for their afternoon fishing. Local word was that a Japanese ‘Zero’ could be found a short distance from shore. As the staff worked out the wreck location, walkers and birders investigated the island’s flora and fauna. Martin’s group came across pandanus, matchbox bean seed pod, hibiscus, and casuarina (beach she-oak), while Chris’s group encountered several birds including three new species for Chris’s bird list: the Louisade White-eye, the White-chinned Myzomela, and the Islet Kingfisher. While all three birds are endemic to the Louisiade Archipelago (and found no where else), the White-chinned Myzomela was especially a rare find, as it lives only on a very select few of the archipelago’s islands.
A four-minute swim from the beach in relatively shallow waters, the Japanese ‘Zero’ offered a fascinating snorkeling spot. The bent propeller, warped cockpit, and rusting out fuselage juxtaposed colourful coral, anemones, a multitude of fish. Once we’d had a sufficient look around, some of us loaded into the Zodiacs for more snorkeling at the other end of the island. Though the visibility wasn’t stellar due to the clouds, we found sting ray, stunning coral in all shapes and sizes, and an interesting selection of fish.
Photo credit: H.Ahern
Photo credit: H.Ahern
Day 7
Thursday, April 28, 2016
Sewa Bay, Normanby Island
We woke up this morning having relocated to the D’Entrecasteaux Islands. An early morning breakfast at 5:45 am fuelled us for a drizzly Zodiac cruise across Sewa Bay, a three-mile inlet on Normanby Island’s western coast. We puttered along the quiet shoreline occasionally passing clusters of sago palm-constructed homes. Everyone we encountered greeted us with smiles and curiosity, often calling out “hello” and waving. The children were particularly excited by our arrival, some of whom followed our route on foot along the beach.
Shortly after the heavier showers set in, we spotted two Curl-crested manucodes—a Bird of Paradise—and another new species for Chris. This bird is quite common in a range of habitats, including forests and gardens, but it has a very restricted range throughout the D’Entrecasteaux and Trobriand Islands. These unusual birds have a musical, far-carrying voice with strange, beautiful but haunting songs.
As the zodiacs zipped around the channel we noticed a school and small village with a big welcome sign. That was to be our stop after lunch and we were already quite aware that the local people were quite excited about our impending visit.
Nathan headed off looking for a good section of reef and snorkeling location. He certainly didn’t disappoint as he found a small sandy beach with coral right up to the edge. Once in the water we were treated to some spectacular coral, fish and all sorts of marine life. Many were taken with the varying colours of the ornate Christmas tree worms, the breathless beauty of the feather stars, the brilliant blue sea stars and the unusual sea squirts and tunicates. Some even saw banner fish and batfish. It really was an incredible spot and everyone really enjoyed the hour or so we spent there.
After lunch on the ship, we visited the Sewa Bay Primary School (one of two primary schools in the bay, each over 100 students). Dozens of dugout canoes hugged the water line—a personal mode of transport for many of the students. As we disembarked our Zodiacs, over 200 pairs of eyes watched in fascination. A crowd of adults and children stood to the left of a hand-drawn “Welcome” sign, and snaking up the hillside single-file awaited the students dressed in yellow uniforms. The moment we reached the sign, the performers suddenly came alive, drumming, jumping and dancing about. We followed the line of children up to the Catholic Church, stopping to shake every hand, exchange introductions and receive a hand-made paper “lei” around our necks. Once settled in the church our hosts welcomed us with a huge fruit platter and some enchanting singing from the students. They performed two songs, accompanied by their teacher on guitar. Their pitch-perfect harmonies and beautiful, projecting voices seemed to fill every corner of the building. We were then led back out to the school’s expansive main field for a series of sensational traditional dance performances depicting stories of fishing, courting and honoring past ancestors.
Afterwards, Chris and Martin led a walk up the hill to track down some birds, while others wandering around the village interacting with the locals and perusing the markets. Those still in the village were enveloped by groups of school children who wanted to take us on tours of the school, play netball or rugby, look at butterflies, or simply ask us loads of questions about where we were from and what we were doing.
We were sad to leave these beautiful people behind when we bid them farewell around 5.00pm. We certainly felt as though we had made some wonderful new friends and it was a real privilege to be part of their world for the afternoon.
Photo credit: H.Ahern
Photo credit: H.Ahern
Photo credit: Heritage Expeditions
Day 8
Friday, April 29, 2016
Deidei & Dobu, Fergusson Island
We awoke to a crystal clear morning and a tropical sunrise with warm, blue skies. After our usual hearty breakfast we jumped into the zodiacs and skimmed a glass-like sea toward Fergusson Island of the D’Entrecasteaux Islands.
Local guides led us around the geothermal hot springs as we weaved through bubbling mud pools, spitting geysers and deep boiling crevices. As we were looking at the hot pools we watched some of the local ladies using the springs to cook yams and other food. The day was already warm and the heat coming off the hot springs added to it significantly. Still it was a fascinating area and some of the geysers were very impressive.
Later this morning, those keen went snorkeling off Dobu, another island in the D’Entrecasteaux group. Here, hot springs leak through small vents in the ocean floor, sending bubbles up to the surface - it was a bit like swimming through champagne! We swam over a myriad of fish and coral including a brain coral the size of small vehicle.
We headed back to the Spirit of Enderby for lunch before heading back out again in the Zodiacs for a walk-about on Dobu. One group went with Chris and Martin who led a bird walk around the back of the village and found eclectus parrots, sulfur-crested cockatoos, more curl-crested manucodes and a brown and grey variable goshawk (bird of prey). Others enjoyed exploring the village and chatting with locals, some of whom offered to show us around the United Church, health clinic, water cisterns, and primary school. A large group of school children sat shaded under a tree singing hymns, and across the main field the adults were mid-meeting discussing health initiatives on the island.
We all met back at the village later in the afternoon and took advantage of their generous hospitality. The children were fascinated with the zodiacs and had staff and passengers suitably entertained.
Photo credit: H.Ahern
Photo credit: H.Ahern
Photo credit: H.Ahern
Day 9
Saturday, April 30, 2016
Tufi
This morning we were treated to a superb tropical sunrise and our visit into the Tufi Fjords was eagerly anticipated. These are the only fjords in Papua New Guinea and consist of 25 individual canyons, each with a towering, sheer basalt cliff.
We loaded into the zodiacs and headed into Maclaren Fjord. The water was still and calm as we cruised past a reef that jetted out at a place where the land met the sea at a gentle angle and not from a towering cliff. The reef below was crystal clear and we were told that nearby was a diving location that was recognised as one of the best in the world.
As we stopped at what appeared to be the end of the fjord, we were quickly aware that locals in canoes were coming our way. As a very special treat, we were transported by outrigger canoe up a mangrove-lined creek from Maclaren Harbour. Each outrigger held a large square platform at the centre, so we were pleasantly comfortable for the ride.
It was an incredibly peaceful and authentic way to travel upriver whilst listening to the calls of birds and sounds of paddles plying the waters. Intricate root systems jutted out from the river banks and basalt cliffs towered overhead. Traditionally dressed, our paddlers wore shell necklaces, woven arm bracelets with tuffs of flowers and foliage, flower and feather headdresses, and tapa skirts (hand-made patterned paper from bark).
Suddenly as we commenced walking away from the river we were ‘attacked’ by some ‘fierce warriors’ until they realised we were friends and not foe. It was very exciting and we would definitely not want that to be a genuine threat. As we were guided towards the main area of the village we entered a decorative gate and were welcomed by girls on the other side who shouted and threw petals over us.
Further down the trail we encountered a series of cultural activities—essentially a kind of living museum to demonstrate some of the traditions of the Tufi people. We observed a woman receiving facial tattoos and watched two men start a fire in no more than twenty seconds. The third station showed how sago (staple food of their diet) is extracted, pressed and filtered from the trunk of palms that grow alongside the river.
We were then ushered to some wooden benches for the start of the official welcome or ‘sing sing’. Their costumes were the most colourful and intricately made yet, with rainbow-feathered headdresses, face paint and traditionally-made drums. Ten men and six women came out in sensational traditional and decorative dress. The singing was especially powerful and all of us were spellbound with the 30-minute performance. Our Cruise Director, Helen, was invited to join in on the last dance in celebration of her 40th birthday.
Following our cultural immersion, we followed Chris through the jungle in search of more feathered friends and found the palm cockatoo, a threatened bird with a bright red face, in the canopy. En route back to our canoes, a couple dozen artisans displayed their tapas, necklaces, masks and bags for sale.
Our afternoon at sea consisted of couple excellent onboard lectures (geological overview of PNG by Andrew and mangroves by Martin), ice-cream bars on the bow, our group photo, and relaxation time.
Photo credit: H.Ahern
Photo credit: H.Ahern
Photo credit: H.Ahern
Day 10
Sunday, May 1, 2016
Kamiali Wildlife Management Area & Fly Islands
This morning we journeyed to a small village that is bounded by the Kamiali Wildlife Management Area. This is a reserve protected by the government and managed in partnership with the local people and Non Government Organisations. It was set up by world conservationist David Suzuki in 1996 and, according to our local guide, travellers started coming to this area in 2010 and approximately eight ships visit per year.
Upon arrival to the village several local guides and administrators welcomed us. Some of our group climbed aboard outrigger canoes for a paddle upriver, while others hiked part of the muddy David Suzuki Trail in search of birds.
Afterwards, we walked along the palm tree-lined beach promenade indulged in fresh coconuts, and stopped to watch a canoe carver hard at work. In the distance, we could here children singing in a Sunday service. We learned that the 1,000 plus residents of Kamiali enjoy fresh river water piped down from the mountains; and this is also the first village where we’ve seen painted canoes and generators for electricity.
After lunch, the Spirit of Enderby transferred us to the Fly Islands for an afternoon of snorkeling and beach time at a slice of paradise, above and below water. This small islet had soft golden sand, gently swaying palms, bathtub temperature water, and a colourful menagerie of marine life to explore.
Back on board we watched another episode of the BBC’s outstanding series “Pacific Ocean” followed by a wildlife photography presentation by Martin.
Photo credit: H.Ahern
Photo credit: H.Ahern
Day 11
Monday, May 2, 2016
Kumbun & Murien
Today was a real expedition day in every sense of the word. Nathan and our local liaison agent, Alex, set off in the first zodiac to explore a channel and see what we could find. The other three zodiacs followed and soon we passed by a small village. The channel was lined with stilt-rooted mangroves and suddenly there were dozens of children climbing into the mangroves, bouncing on branches and shouting and hollering as we passed by. It was an amazing, high-energy impromptu performance and brought a smile to all of our faces.
After cruising around the mangroves for a while we were approached by the chief and officials from the area. After discussions with Nathan and Alex, we were invited to visit one of the villages (Kumbun) and were welcomed by almost the whole village with many of the women singing to us as we glided the zodiacs onto the shore. Like all the villages we have visited we were warmly welcomed. No expedition vessel or group had ever visited this area and as we learnt about these people we understood that they lived quite a traditional way of life.
We spent the next hour or so wandering around the village, up the hill to the school, church and playground. As we wandered around chatting to the locals we were each accompanied by a group of inquisitive children. Even in such a short time many friendships were formed and our hearts warmed. It has been the common theme throughout our visits to villages in Papua New Guinea.
We left the village and managed time for a quick snorkel on a fringing reef just on a neighboring island. Every time we put our heads under water on these reefs it is like entering a marine wonderland. And each reef is different. This reef had a good diversity of fish and some even found a unique pipefish.
After a short lunchbreak back on the ship, we were quickly back out again on a zodiac expedition down one of the rivers. The river was lined with tropical rainforest on both sides but we did see evidence of on-going logging. As we travelled up the river and the heat of the day subsided, we started to see some life. Nathan in the lead boat even spotted a huge estuarine crocodile before he was spooked and swam away. We all got good views of the some of the birds including oriental dollarbird, with brilliant blue wings, and a some kingfishers, starlings and pigeons to name a few.
We arrived back on board for dinner and were delighted at how an unplanned, expedition day turned out to be so unexpectedly exciting.
Photo credit: H.Ahern
Photo credit: H.Ahern
Photo credit: H.Ahern
Day 12
Tuesday, May 3, 2016
Lablab
For our final expedition day we visited a community called Lablab. Once in the zodiacs and getting closer to the wharf we noticed that there had been many preparations for our visit judging by the amount of decorations and people waiting for us. We later learned that this village had never been paid a visit by a tourist vessel and they were very excited to see and welcome us.
As we landed a few men in traditional costume and a troupe of dancers and singers greeted us. Their costumes were quite elaborate and their singing and dancing was powerful and impressive. However, we weren’t scheduled for a ‘sing sing’ until after lunch, so were a little worried that they might peak too early! Our fears were allayed however, as they sang and danced throughout the day in the tropical heat with very few breaks.
After a greeting and a beautiful rendition of the national anthem of Papua New Guinea by the school children, we chose one of three activities - a long walk with Chris, to a waterfall with Martin or to the local school with Helen. The waterfall walk was led by one of the senior men, Matthew, and we were greeted by nearly everyone we met. We felt like royalty! We arrived at a two-metre waterfall with a big, deep freshwater pool at its base. Within an instant children were jumping in and before too long so were we. It was exhilarating! The water was cool and fresh and we all enjoyed sitting in the water watching children jump and skylark in the water. After a hot walk it was perfect. The school walkers visited a Primary School and a High School and were amazed by what they achieve with such a small budget. While the Primary School learning environment was cohesive and welcoming, the High School was relatively barren and uninviting.
Once back to the jetty there was the beginnings of a market, so we made a dash back to the ship, had a quick lunch, before returning to the landing for our final ‘sing sing’ and to spend more time with the locals. The ‘sing sing’ had us enthralled for the hour-long performance with displays from several village groups in the area. We had anther hour or so to mingle and buy some of their crafts before waving our new friends goodbye and heading back to the ship.
That evening Nathan gave us a talk recapping our adventure and then we watched Martin’s slideshow. It certainly brought back very fond memories of a trip and adventure of a lifetime. We had a great feast prepared by Ralf and Connor and served by the hardworking Natalia and Albina. It was a spectacular day and a perfect way to conclude our expedition.
Photo credit: H.Ahern
Photo credit: H.Ahern
Day 13
Tuesday, May 3, 2016
Madang
This morning we made preparations to disembark The Spirit of Enderby for the final time. After breakfast we loaded onto the zodiacs and headed to Madang wharf. We were greeted by ‘Busy Bee’ and taken on a fascinating three-hour tour around the attractions of Madang.
The expedition was then over and it was time to make our own way. It has been a wonderful adventure full of wildlife, culture and new friends. The smiling faces of the village people of Papua New Guinea will live on in our memories and in our tales we share with family and friends.
