1676: East Antarctica - In the Wake of Mawson 08 Jan 2016
8 January – 2 February 2016
Expedition Leader: Rodney Russ
Captain: Igor Kiselev
Cruise Director: Agnès Breniere
Guides: Samuel Blanc, Huw Lewis-Jones, Jenny Paton
Medical Advisor: Suzi Hamilton
Government Observer: Jenny Ridgen
Chefs: Matt Crouch, Connor Arcus
Chief Mate: Nikolay Velichko
Second Mate: Evgenii Berezovskov
Third Mate: Dimitrii Danilenok
Radio Officer: Yury Kudin
Chief Engineer: Nail Makhmutov
Chief Electrical Engineer: Aleksei Ivanov
Chief Stewardess: Tatiana Minina
DAY 1-2 – Friday 8 and Saturday 9 January
Hobart, At Sea
Noon Position: Lat 42o52’South; Long 147o20’East Air Temp: 20oC
[Note - All positions and data are taken from the Official Ship’s Log.]
Gourmet Grub: Tomato and parmesan tart / Miso glazed salmon with wasabi mash / Thyme infused lamb rump with chive crushed potatoes / Pear and lime cake
Profound Question: “Is there such a thing as a female sperm whale?”
Quote of the Day: “Like a person, no two journeys are alike. And all plans, safeguards, policies and coercion are fruitless. We find after years of struggle that we do not take a trip; a trip takes us.” – John Steinbeck
Rodney Quote of the Day: “It’s always best to remain rigidly flexible.”
Mawson’s Journal: 8 January 1912. “Anchored under the Barrier near winter quarters site [where we built the main hut] and landed.”
Mawson’s Journal: 8 January 1913. “Gleams of sun and light snow in evening … up at 09.00 and cut sledge in two … I have left Xavier in bag and taken him outside to bury.”
The first days were spent in Tasmania’s beautiful state capital, Hobart, where guests stayed at the Travelodge on Macquarie Street and the historic Hadley’s Hotel. Gathering in the early evening sunshine, our leader Rodney Russ, founder of Heritage Expeditions and historian Huw Lewis-Jones met the hardy band of expeditioners at the replica Mawson Hut on the waterfront. Then to dinner, during which Rodney gave an outline of plans for the next few days along with thoughts on possible ice conditions. We raised a glass to Mawson remembering on this day, 8 January, back in 1912 he made his first landing at Cape Denison. It’s an auspicious start to our voyage as we follow in his wake. So many questions, but one thing is sure – we are to expect the unexpected when Antarctic weather is concerned. “Stand by, watch the sky and listen to announcements” would become a familiar motto, but it really is the best way to operate in Antarctica. Patience is everything.
Mawson’s Hut at Cape Denison still stands; protected against the extreme weather for which the region is renowned. Cape Denison has historically been one of the very few ice free and readily accessible areas along the East Antarctic coastline. However when the Mertz Glacier tongue broke off in 2010 it blocked the annual movement of sea ice preventing any shipping and effectively isolating the area. Heritage Expeditions have been monitoring conditions in this region ever since and now saw opportunities to return and explore this majestic, remote coastline.
The following morning in sunshine we were greeted again by Huw who led the activities and, most important, helped to arrange luggage and check-out; all gear was security checked and loaded for transit to our ship Akademik Shokalskiy, named for a prominent Russian oceanographer during the Soviet Era. Some chose to spend their final morning ashore enjoying this marvellous city, with its rich colonial history, splendid architecture and interesting shops. The day grew hot and Salamanca market was in full swing. Others followed the trail of many polar connections down along the waterfront, from statues and memorials to memorable historic sites. We all joined together at IMAS – the University of Tasmania Institute for Marine and Antarctic Science – where a lecture on sea ice change gave us a taste of what was to come. Then we were off across the road to lunch and then down to the port. After a few more customs formalities, we boarded a bus to drive the last stretch to the ship. After many journeys from all corners of the world, at last our expedition proper was beginning.
We drew up alongside the ship where we were greeted by Rodney and other staff then shown to our cabins in which our gear had been placed. We had freshly-baked cookies and afternoon tea, surrendered our passports and familiarised ourselves with the ship. We left Hobart quayside just after 16.00, and having been led out by the Pilot we chugged down the Derwent in brilliant sunshine, with the ship now gently rolling. Late that afternoon we had our first briefings in the Lecture Room in the belly of the ship on Level 2, a place that would become very familiar to us as the voyage progressed. Rodney began by introducing the staff, each of whom gave a brief resumé of their background. We met our fabulous French couple, naturalist Samuel Blanc and Agnès Breniere our Cruise Director, who acquainted us with the daily schedule for meals and other special requirements. Rodney continued the briefing with reference to the all-important signals for Emergencies and Abandon Ship. Matters such as appropriate dress and types of landings expected – dry, wet, or very wet – the tag system, immersion suits and life jackets. Minutes after this briefing the abandon ship drill was in full swing, and passengers found their way to muster stations with expert speed. We were in the lee of the island during dinner and later that evening the Captain headed due south out of Storm Bay, beyond Bruny Island then set our course for Macquarie. The ship began to roll. An early night for many, as the seas grew.
Photo © S.Blanc
DAY 3 – Sunday 10 January
At Sea
Noon Position: Lat 45o43’S; Long 149o55’E Air Temp: 16oC
Gourmet Grub: Roast duck and mango salad / Moroccan pork cutlet with zucchini couscous / Roast chicken breast and asparagus / Apple strudel with crème anglaise
Profound Question: “Does the ship produce its own electricity?”
Quote of the Day: “Not all those who wander are lost.” – JR Tolkien
Rodney Quote of the Day: “It’s going to get rough, but that’s what seas do. Think like Queen Victoria. Just lie back and enjoy it”.
Mawson’s Journal: 10 January 1913. “No sun, heavy wind drift, so I decided not to move but mend burberries, shovel, etc. At 14.00 however it began to clear and sun came out, wind fell, beautiful late afternoon and evening. Did not move however, as late in day and to give scrotum a further chance to heal. Boiled all the rest of the dog meat.”
Dawn brought a continuation of heavy seas, after sickness and a sleepless night for many. It was a slow morning, free for stowing things securely in cabins and getting to know fellow passengers and sharing tales of the horrors of the night before. It was a baptism of fire some said, a baptism of breaking waves more like. Lunch was not well attended, not surprising in these conditions and the outer decks were closed as seas surged over the bow. In the afternoon Rodney gave an overview of the expedition down in the lecture room and Samuel offered his first presentation, ‘Seabirds of the Southern Ocean’ which was a welcome entertainment in a long, uncomfortable day. Even at this early stage the Southern Ocean was living up to its reputation. Now fully drugged-up, a few more stoic passengers were able to make it down to dinner, where plates crashed and glasses tumbled off the tables. Much praise was due to our chefs who worked hard in these conditions to serve up this gourmet grub, but it was time for most to head back to the safety of their cabins and ride out the night.
DAY 4 – Monday 11 January
At Sea
Noon Position: Lat 49o12’S; Long 153o27’E Air Temp: 18oC
Gourmet Grub: Wild mushroom risotto / Lemon and thyme trevalla with pappardelle / Lamb with beans and rosemary jus / Berry cheese cake
Profound Question: “Do Sea Lions lay eggs?”
Quote of the Day: “It is not down in any map; true places never are.” –
Herman Melville
Rodney Quote of the Day: “People can always do more than they realise.”
Mawson’s Journal: 11 January 1913. “Almost calm, sun shining – a beautiful day – surface good, slow downhill … feet had awkwardly lumpy feeling. I got away at 10.45 after paying respects to Xavier’s remains.”
A new day and thankfully a moderation in the sea conditions. Now famished, most were down for breakfast and then into the lecture room for a showing of ‘Silence Calling’, an interesting documentary on the history of the Australian Antarctic division and those early expeditions establishing a presence to justify the extensive territorial claims. In the afternoon Samuel gave his superb summary on the life of penguins, a useful introduction for the many who would be seeing their first penguins in the wild in just a few days time. Huw came later in the afternoon with his first lecture, ‘Boiling Penguins’, detailing the intriguing environmental history of Macquarie Island, and with our course firmly set there excitement was beginning to build. There followed the first of many lively hours in the bar before dinner as we thought more about the voyage that lay ahead. With Wandering Albatross and Giant Petrels gliding over wave tops and dolphins in the water too, it had been a full and satisfying expedition day. There would be more to come.
DAY 5 – Tuesday 12 January
At Sea
Noon Position: Lat 52o23’S; Long 156o47’E Air Temp: 11oC
Gourmet Grub: Prawn cocktail / T-bone steak on creamy mash / Perch filet with stir fry greens and lemon cream / Tiramisu
Profound Question: “Are there any toilets in the Zodiacs?”
Quote of the Day: “I now belong to a higher cult of mortals, for I have seen the albatross.” – Robert Cushman Murphy
Rodney Quote of the Day: “I suppose you could call me an adventure cowboy. I like to ride that bucking bronco. I like to milk every drop from every day.”
Mawson’s Journal: 12 January 1913. “Woke up to find overcast and snowing with strong wind 40-45 mph part of day … decided to abide the weather and give my feet a chance.”
Overnight the westerlies increased and, with waves hitting our beam, the ship rolled and groaned and our speeds dropped. Drawers rattled, curtains swished, chairs tipped, door slammed, and even the most safely stowed cabin produced another sleepless night. More sickness, therefore more drugs. The pleasure of many more Albatross too, but yet more Southern Ocean swell in all its fury. With the outer decks closed, and presentations postponed, most retreated back to their bunks. It was a day mostly to be endured. By late afternoon we had about 100 nautical miles to run to Macquarie. Rodney gave an ‘Introduction to Macquarie’ in the lecture room and told us much more about this remarkable place. The island is located on the Australian-Pacific plate boundary and is formed of rocks from the Earth’s mantle. Many of the rocks are iron and magnesium rich and are termed ultramafic. They have been formed about six kilometres under the mantle and pushed up. And that’s just the geology – incredible wildlife and history are to be found here too. The lecture was followed by some quarantine vacuum cleaning, a steadying drink in the bar and then dinner. More Albatross in the evening light as the clouds finally cleared and the winds turned to the north.
DAY 6 – Wednesday 13 January
Macquarie Island
Noon Position: Lat 54o34’S; Long 158o56’E Air Temp: 10oC
Gourmet Grub: Tomato bruschetta / Roast lamb leg with peas and potato cakes / Jerky chicken with saffron rice / Apple berry crumble
Profound Question: “What nationality is the Russian crew?”
Quote of the Day: “How inappropriate to call this planet earth, when clearly it is ocean.” - Arthur C Clarke.
Rodney Quote of the Day: “There’s plenty of time to sleep when you’re dead.”
Mawson’s Journal: 13 January 1913. “Shook snow off tent and started breakfast … painful feet, on camping find feet worse than ever. Things look bad but I shall persevere.”
At first light Macquarie Island could be seen on the horizon, a thin line of grey in a dark ocean. More Wandering Albatross, Fulmars and Cape Petrels swooping and darting over wave crests as we staggered into breakfast. It was to be a day of sunshine, modest winds and kinder seas. This was Macquarie at her best, little wonder she is Australia’s prized Subantarctic possession. The team were in Zodiacs early to fetch a couple of National Parks Rangers who would be joining us for our landing later in the day. We chugged down the coast, had an onboard briefing about the island, then our first foray ashore. This routine would become well established before excursions – an informative talk, then a mad dash to grab gear, cameras and the like, wrapping up warm and clambering down into the rugged four-stroke 60hp-engined Zodiacs.
A first landing at Sandy Bay, where we enjoyed the King Penguin colony at the far end of the beach and the Royal Penguin rookery up in the tussock at the end of the boardwalk. For most it was the joy of finally being off the ship that was another huge highlight. Lardy Elephant Seals rounded out the wildlife spectacle here, lounging at the sea edge. It was great to be up close and amongst Antarctic wildlife that we have all so long read about, a dream now finally a reality. Elephant Seals basked with their snot-farting-belching routine well established, while many of us enjoyed the simple pleasure of sitting on the beach in the sunshine as Kings pecked away at our boots. In all, it was just a marvellous experience.
Photo © S.Blanc
Photo © A.Breniere
Photo © S.Blanc
DAY 7 – Thursday 14 January
Macquarie Island
Noon Position: Lat 54o43’S; Long 158o51’E Air Temp: 8oC
Gourmet Grub: Braised squid in tomato concasse / Pan-fried snapper with rice noodle and lime / Ribeye steak with honey roasted carrots and béarnaise / Chocolate mousse with berry compote
Profound Question: “Are these penguins, or birds?”
Quote of the Day: “The two noblest things I perceive are sweetness and light.” – John Swift
Rodney Quote of the Day: “Yours to discover, ours to share with you.”
Mawson’s Journal: 14 January 1913. “At noon I got packing and away somewhat later. Five pairs of socks on … if my feet do not improve I must turn down the glacier and endeavour to reach the sea.”
We hoped for a landing at Buckles Bay and a guided tour of the Australian Antarctic Division Base, with a walk along the stormy shores of Hassleborough, but the weather refused to cooperate. It had been a rare day of sunshine yesterday – one of the handful that you get during the briefest of summers here – and now Macquarie was back to her normal state: high winds, heavy swell and endless rain. It was a frustrating afternoon, unable to land at Lusitania to see the King Penguin rookery due to continued swell and high winds. It was no failure though, and certainly there was no time to dwell; we have almost 1,000 nautical miles to go before the next waypoint, it’s a long way into the Southern Ocean for us now. So much bird life was observed throughout our time on the island, which included Giant Petrels, Sooty Albatross, Black-Browed Albatross, Campbell Albatross, Wandering Albatross, Southern Royal Albatross, Brown Skua, Macquarie Island Shag, Kelp Gull and Antarctic Tern. In the water and on the shores numerous Royal, King, Gentoo and even Rock-Hopper Penguins were observed. This truly is an island that is alive with nature, a haven in a hostile sea. It’s also an island that really deserves more time and many more visits.
Photo © A.Breniere
DAY 8 – Friday 15 January
At Sea
Noon Position: Lat 56o45’S; Long 156o04’E Air Temp: 6oC
Gourmet Grub: Chicken and cognac pate / Ciopino with freshly baked bread / Apple and balsamic glazed pork fillet with potato galette / Praline semi-frado
Profound Question: “Has this ship ever been wrecked?”
Quote of the Day: “If the only prayer you said in your whole life was ‘thank you’ that would suffice.” – Meister Eckhart.
Rodney Quote of the Day: “Life is life. It is what it is. Full stop.”
Mawson’s Journal: 15 January 1913. “Breakfast – small pemmican, dog meat, ¾ biscuit, good tea … completely overcast, occasional flakes of snow falling, dead calm, bad light.”
After breakfast Huw started proceedings, giving his second lecture of the voyage, ‘Freeze Frame’, which explained the development of photography and its use in the polar regions. It was another specially illustrated account, using rare imagery based on his research in collections all round the world: full of pretty pictures and insights, and much inspiration for our photographers on board. We followed with the classic BBC wildlife documentary ‘Life in the Freezer’, David Attenborough at his best. Samuel gave another excellent lecture on icebergs; for others it was an afternoon of reading and writing, needlework, even some competitive Bridge in the bar too. Reflecting on our special experience at Macquarie’s Sandy Bay, others were sharing stories and editing their photographs. We were getting closer to the Antarctic convergence now. This is roughly a circular belt of water about 25 miles (40km) wide lying between Latitudes 48o and 60o South. By no means a fixed boundary, it forms where cold north-flowing Antarctic bottom water and Antarctic surface water meet the warmer water flowing south. This produces a sharp change in temperature. But before we encountered that, the westerly swells gradually increased in force. The final presentations of the day are postponed as the South Ocean reminded us that we must take nature on her terms. It’s a humbling experience to be on a small ship in such a mighty body of water and we are thankful for the skills of our Russian crew. We are also grateful to our chefs, who are still working hard in the galley to produce delicious food for those who can stomach it. An early night for many and the seas increase.
DAY 9 – Saturday 16 January
At Sea
Noon Position: Lat 59o05’S; Long 151o35’E Air Temp: 4oC
Gourmet Grub: Smoked chicken salad / Crispy skin salmon with char-grilled capsicum / Honey-glazed duck with fondant potatoes / Chocolate mousse 2.0
Profound Question: “Which way is 10 o’clock?”
Quote of the Day: “There are two ways to live your life. One is as though nothing is a miracle. The other is as though everything is a miracle.” – Albert Einstein.
Rodney Quote of the Day: “Let’s wait, let’s be patient. It’s a gamble, but the whole of life is a gamble.”
Mawson’s Journal: 16 January 1913. “I don’t know what is on ahead at all as no seeing, and trust the sky will clear and a frost come. It takes quite a while dressing my feet each day now.”
“Here’s to a day of information sharing, learning, and homework”, announces Rodney on the PA. “And more endless rolling sea”. The force of the westerlies continued through the night, but most are now getting used to the movement of the ship; or, at least, learning how to cope with it. With one hand for the ship, we carefully move from bunk to bar, to dining room, and back in a sort of endless dance. Staggering like drunkards down the corridors and bouncing off the walls, for some it’s a rough introduction to life at sea but it’s also an experience that must be undergone if you want to taste the truly good stuff. Antarctica is the reward for the rough days in the Southern Ocean. Rodney makes sure to remind us that it’s all worth the pain.
After breakfast, and a quick look at the wave crests full with Wandering Albatross, Prions and Petrels, another full day of presentations begins. First up again was Huw, with his third lecture ‘The Southern Whalemen’, with more thought-provoking old photographs and rare film from the whaling days, both in the New Zealand Subantarctics and more particularly the wonderful island of South Georgia. It’s a challenging subject but an important part of the environmental history here. Huw encourages us to consider the human side of the whaling industry, as much as its terrible costs. Beyond the lecture room and with competitive instincts aroused, the rules for the iceberg sighting competition are announced. Simply the date and time was needed, with the approved berg to be no smaller than a classic London Routemaster bus, seen with the naked eye. As chance would have it, you wait for one bus and then lots come along all at once! It would not be long until we were surrounded by magnificent bergs. As early evening turned to dusk, there was more birdlife to be enjoyed by those braving the outerdecks. Petrels, Fulmars and Prions, Wandering and Light-Mantled Albatross. The air temperatures begin to drop. Water temperatures too were falling. Antarctica was getting closer. Time for bed.
DAY 10 – Sunday 17 January
At Sea
Noon Position: Lat 62o26’S; Long 146o23’E Air Temp: 5oC
Gourmet Grub: Gremolata prawns with garlic aioli / Thai-style barramundi with vegetable fried rice / Striploin with creamy polenta and red wine and mushroom sauce / Ship-made profiteroles
Profound Question: “Why do the birds always sit on white rocks?”
Quote of the Day: “The shell must break before the bird can fly.” –Tennyson
Rodney Quote of the Day: “Here’s my advice for life: don’t ever grow up, don’t ever give in, and always speak your mind.”
Mawson’s Journal: 17 January 1913. “I escaped several large open crevasses by Providence, not seeing them till past them, grazing one end or on top of them. I blundered blindly on … a few moments later I was dangling on end of rope in crevasse, sledge creeping to mouth.”
It’s Sunday, but there is no rest for the wicked. The seas have decreased and for once it feels comfortable aboard. The breeze is still fresh but with sun shining and light sprays it’s invigorating out on deck before a hearty breakfast. At 09.30 Huw began the schedule with his fourth lecture, and one that many had been waiting for: ‘South with Mawson’, which told the story of this great explorer and those who journeyed with him. For his commitment to science, among so many things, he deserves to be well remembered, alongside his more well-known contemporaries: Scott, Amundsen and Shackleton. His legacy to our understanding of the continent is considerable. He is much more than just a face in a woolly balaclava or an image on a $100 banknote; and the men who served with him admired him like no other. Mawson was a true Australian hero.
At 11.20 Agnes took to the PA to announce the first iceberg. It was sighted away to the west, 65o41’South, 140o26’East, in water around 2,000m deep. Well satisfied we return inside to the issuing of the blue Heritage polar jackets, more excitement and photos, people getting hot, resizing and reshuffling, and more promenading on the outerdecks. Not quite cold enough though yet for those fancy jackets, but soon. There followed some serious retail overindulgence in the ‘Sea Shop’, aka our onboard boutique polaire. Everything was on offer that a discerning Antarctic traveller might need on his or her adventures: postcards, t-shirts, books, memory sticks, ‘mankys’ and more (that’s a map-hanky, we are told). Agnes reports brisk sales.
We are sailing ever closer to the South Magnetic Pole. It’s an invisible point and it is constantly on the move. The pursuit of the magnetic poles has an interesting, colourful human history, which actually starts in the Arctic. In 1829 Sir John Ross had left England to lead an expedition to the Canadian Arctic in search of the Northwest Passage. During this expedition his nephew, James Clark Ross, took command of a sledging party that in 1831 located the North Magnetic Pole. In 1839-42, James Clark Ross sailed south on a voyage of exploration to the southern oceans and Antarctica. Discovering and charting the ice shelf, which now bears his name, Ross also hoped to locate the South Magnetic Pole and thus be the first to reach both. In this respect he was unsuccessful, but he did determine that the Pole lay inland from Victoria Land, which he could not reach. Nearly seventy years later, Shackleton sent Mawson, David and Mackay to complete the task. Using neither dogs nor ponies, the men hauled their sledges for the entire journey and on 16 January 1909 at 72°15’S and 155°16’E they raised the Union Jack, thus successfully completing one of the expedition’s main aims. It was by no means an easy journey for the three men – man-hauling heavy loads over the sea ice, huge distances over uncharted terrain, countless glaciers to cross, falling down crevasses, suffering frostbitten toes, near madness, and almost continual hardship. Shackleton of course took most of the credit for their achievements in later years, but Mawson’s role really ought to be considered more. The first ascent of Erebus and the haul to the South Magnetic Pole were both journeys of real significance and scientific merit. They are both great stories too.
In the late afternoon, Huw presented his BBC documentary ‘Of Ice and Men’, which told of the human and cultural history of Antarctica and most followed this with Cascades in the bar – the polar beer of choice, and going fast – or a whisky or two as dinner approached. Not only icebergs, but we also see our first whales too – a group of five Minkes – surging across our course. Shearwaters in great numbers dance over the wave crests. The sun appears from behind a wide bank of cloud. We have 212 nautical miles left to run.
DAY 11 – Monday 18 January
At Sea, then Commonwealth Bay
We finally cross the Antarctic Circle, Latitude 66o33’South!
Noon Position: Lat 65o46’S; Long 140o36’E Air Temp: 0oC
Gourmet Grub: Pumpkin soup / Beef stew with creamy mashed potatoes / Crispy pork belly and parsnip puree / Sticky date pudding with butterscotch sauce
Profound Question: “What happens to an iceberg when it melts?”
Quote of the Day: “Who looks outside dreams; who looks inside, awakes.”
– Carl Jung.
Rodney Quote of the Day: “Don’t worry. Things are hard. But when it’s darkest you can see the stars.”
Mawson’s Journal: 18 January 1913. “The accident of yesterday so played up on me that I could not sleep. Spent a rotten time … glimmer of sun at 10.00 … if only I could get out of this hole. I was quite faint at end of ½ mile today and know that I can’t stand much heavy work.”
Light-mantled Sooty Albatross and a couple of Wanderers greet the sun on the bridge, just before Agnes smoothly takes to the PA to summon the ship to breakfast. Icebergs are on the horizon and crisp morning air with a fresh north-westerly send us southward. Firstly, Rodney gathered us in the lecture room for another compulsory briefing. This began with IAATO (International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators founded 1991), of which Heritage Expeditions is a foundation member, and then an interesting presentation on the Antarctic Treaty. In heading to East Antarctica and Commonwealth Bay we are among a select few; no passenger ships have got in for many years. During this summer, 300 visitors are also expected to voyage to the Ross Sea region compared to some 20,000 on the busy Antarctic Peninsula. Excitement and expectation is building.
After lunch, films provided a break in the lectures. First, at 15.15 ‘Ice Bird’, which covered the life history of the Adelie Penguin, and later at 17.00 more BBC natural history with another ‘Life in the Freezer’. Ice was everywhere around the ship from morning to the early afternoon as we cleared the ice tongue, ice bergs in endless shapes and forms, stark whites and vivid blue seams of colour under a heavy grey sky. Birds were seen in good numbers today too: Shearwaters, Cape Petrels, Antarctic Petrels, Wanderers, a light-mantled Sooty Albatross and many Giant Petrels.
By 18.30 we were approaching the Antarctic Circle. This is a geographical boundary (also in the Arctic) at which in summer, marks the most northerly point at which the sun is visible for 24 hours a day on mid-summer’s day (21 December), when the sun is at its highest above the horizon. In winter it is the southernmost point at which the sun can be seen on mid-winters day (21 June). South of the Antarctic Circle it is dark 24 hours a day in winter. The crossing of the Antarctic Circle is considered to be a symbolic point of the entry into true Antarctic waters. 17 January 1773 is a date to remember. Captain James Cook and his crews in the Resolution and Adventure, on his second major voyage of discovery, become the first men to sail within the Antarctic Circle. They would cross it three times in various parts of the Southern Ocean during this voyage, and in doing so they also became the first to circumnavigate Antarctica, although they would never see the great southern continent.
We also have our first up-close encounter with the monster berg ‘B9B’, mile upon mile of ice front. Then suddenly a huge number of whales were spotted in the distance – or, to use Rodney’s scientific phrase, “wow, look Huw, there’s shit loads out there!” – and he was right: there are perhaps as many as fifty Minke whales feeding on krill, rolling, breaching, and diving as we approached, their blows catching the early evening light and sent skyward in great bursts of spray like a firework display. It is perhaps odd to say, but they seemed to be happy, and we certainly were too. On the bow we could hear and smell their feeding delight and we were often doused in spray. To have so many whales, so close, and so unconcerned by our presence, feels like such a huge privilege. Thank-you Antarctica! What a welcome and what a reward after those long days in heavy seas. In the distance, the rocky headland of Cape Denison appears, the home of Mawson’s hut, the home of the blizzard. And yet, now, everything is calm and peaceful. The light plays across the vast polar plateau behind, the faint sound of Adelie Penguins call in the distance, and we move our ship alongside the fast-ice edge. We hope to get ashore tomorrow but as always we realise this will be a serious, committed journey for many on board. We balance the risks and the rewards. We will wait to see what tomorrow brings.
After dinner we assemble in the bar for a special ceremony to toast a wonderful day and celebrate crossing the Antarctic Circle. Mugs of mulled wine are shared as Rodney offered these words:
By anyone’s standards this event is an auspicious occasion. Very few people have crossed the Antarctic Circle by ship. So on this occasion we want to both celebrate and acknowledge its importance. Today each one of us joins a unique group of explorers that have gone before us, not only showing us the way, but giving us courage to follow and to make our own destiny. We follow explorers such as James Clark Ross, Robert Falcon Scott, Ernest Shackleton, Roald Amundsen, Douglas Mawson, Richard Byrd, Edmund Hillary and others, who pioneered new routes south of the Circle. Today we acknowledge them and their efforts. Crossing the Circle also carries with it responsibility – a responsibility that those explorers who went before us took seriously which is part of the reason that we are here today. They advocated for the protection of these lands and wildlife that inhabited them, ensuring that future generations would have them to enjoy. So today as we cross the Circle, I would like each of you to take this vow:
“Having endured the privations of the Roaring Forties, the rigours of the Furious Fifties and the ice-strewn waters of the Screaming Sixties to cross the Antarctic Circle, we pay homage to those early explorers who have not only shown the way, but have demonstrated what it means to advocate for the continued protection of Antarctica and its wildlife and history. I ……….. hereby pledge that I will, until I take my last expedition, advocate to everybody, even those who will not listen, the importance of the Antarctic and its wildlife and history.”
Three cheers and raised mugs in tribute to the heroes of the past, and to ourselves. Welcome everyone to the fellowship of Antarctica! It really is an honour and a blessing. Let’s use our time here wisely, enjoy every moment, and return safely with a deeper understanding of the challenge and delight of this incredible wilderness.
Photo © S.Blanc
Photo © S.Blanc
DAY 12 – Tuesday 19 January
Commonwealth Bay
Noon Position: Lat 66o52’S; Long 142o33’E Air Temp: -1oC
Gourmet Grub: Cream of cauliflower soup / Moroccan lamb kebab with couscous / Pappardelle pasta with salmon and caper dill sauce / Ice cream trio
Profound Question: “Is the Great Auk still extinct?”
Quote of the Day: “Come my friends, ‘tis not too late to seek a newer world.” – Tennyson
Rodney Quote of the Day: “Ah Connor. Sometimes he’s as useless as tits on a bull.”
Today, on Mawson’s expedition: 19 January 1912. Aurora finally departs Commonwealth Bay, leaving the eighteen men to continue building the hut before winter sets in.
Mawson’s Journal: 19 January 1913. “Away at about 08.30. I found myself in a maze of huge crevasses … everything seemed hopeless … It seemed impossible for me, alone, to cross it, for any moment I expected to go down. I determined at last to stick to the course as much as possible, push on, and rely on Providence.”
We are doing everything we can to try and make a journey across the fast ice possible. Rodney and the team work until 01.00 in the morning preparing the Argo vehicles and then are up again at 04.30 to try a reconnaissance trip. Rodney was driving doctor Suzi in one vehicle, with Huw driving Samuel in the other and good progress was made until ice conditions and a mechanical issue forced a sensible retreat. Over breakfast we reassess, we plan, we think again. Meanwhile there are Emperor Penguins at the ice edge, and thousands of Adelies are spread out across fast ice making their way to and from their rookery at Cape Denison. As we wait, in the morning Huw gave his fifth lecture ‘Becoming the Boss’, which retold the Shackleton story through rare imagery with particular emphasis on his rise to fame and the leadership lessons that many derive from his life. In the words of one of his comrades, Jameson Adams: “He was the greatest leader that ever came on God’s earth – bar none.” Huw told us the five qualities that Shackleton looked for in companions, those factors that he thought crucial to success on an Antarctic expedition, and which he wrote about at the time: courage, physical endurance, idealism, optimism and, most important of all, patience! This is something we all remember over the next few days.
In glorious sunshine, ice is closing in from the north, but we manage to launch Zodiacs and make a landing on the fast ice. We drink in the fresh air and the silence; we wander in the expanse of great white nothing; we sit still as the waddling lines of Adelies continue their long way to land. The sun shines in a sky painted with thin cloud. It is a very special afternoon; really, one of the best experiences that Antarctica can offer. There is freedom and joy in this wilderness.
Photo © S.Blanc
Photo © S.Blanc
Photo © S.Blanc
DAY 13 – Wednesday 20 January
Commonwealth Bay
Noon Position: Lat 66o48’S; Long 142o32’E Air Temp: -2oC
Gourmet Grub: Green pea risotto / Osso bucco beef with potato gnocchi and asparagus / Pork cutlet on pumpkin puree and sweet potato / Vanilla slice
Profound Question: “How do penguins know what sex they are?”
Quote of the Day: “Whatever you can do, or dream you can, begin it. Boldness has a genius, power, and magic in it.” – WH Murray
Rodney Quote of the Day: “In Antarctica nothing is guaranteed. We travel here on nature’s terms.”
Mawson’s Journal: 20 January 1913. “Sun showed at 03.00 for short while then lost; badly overcast and crevassed ice in front … hope for good day tomorrow.”
Blessings so often become a curse. This spell of clear weather and bright sunshine, though welcome, has probably put paid to our chances. The irony of coming to this Home of the Blizzard is that we now pray for a good storm. With the lack of offshore winds the ice packed in from the north on the tide and we have become encircled in fascinating but confused ice. A strong katabatic would certainly help to clear that pack and make our exit strategy all the easier. It is fair to say we are lucky to have even come this far, nestled in a rare pool of open water near the fast ice edge. We hope for progress as Captain Igor and his team start the slow process of watching, waiting, and then expertly working our ship though. We are unable to mount a last-ditch expedition across the fast ice in a bid to reach Cape Denison. There is simply too much rough ice to cover, too much uncertainty and our window of opportunity has closed fast. We must count our blessings and live to fight another day. Rodney is juggling all of these pressures and more, consulting with the Captain and trying his damndest to do the best for all of us, but sometimes nature has the final say. We appreciate now, as so many explorers learned to their cost, that it is wise to respect nature.
Our expedition aim changes immediately from an overland hut mission to an extraction strategy. It will take all the skill of our team to get us through. By mid morning we are inching our way amongst the floes. Back and forth, ramming and crunching, weaving our way slowly, back and forth again. All standby for signs that we can wriggle free to safety. There is no cause just yet for concern. On the bow, many enjoy the slow crunch of ice as we navigate the maze of fractures and leads. At 10.10 spirits were lifted by the appearance of a Ross Seal on a floe close to the ship’s port side. A rare sighting, a first for many of the expedition staff too, and having flagged this species as one that would be extra special to catch sight of on this trip. It was a delight to have this unique experience. And yet, the tussle with the ice continues. As Agnes reminds us over the PA, having now seen the sea ice, touched the sea ice, walked out on the sea ice, and, for some of us, even tasted the sea ice, it is time to listen to more about this remarkable aspect of nature. At 15.00 Samuel gave the appropriate lecture ‘On Sea Ice’, accompanied by the sounds of crunching ice along the sides of our hull. Back out on deck to enjoy the floes once more, this time with hot chocolate and vodka; spirits remain high. We continued to marvel at the impressive environment we found ourselves in, well aware too of the tremendous efforts of the crew to navigate through the chaos of ice. Having created a backlog of drifting ice, the metaphorical ‘dam burst’ behind B9B which then clogged up the whole of the bay. Even the rare patches of open water are also now beginning to freeze and would likely remain that way for the rest of the short summer. We return inside to the warmth of the bar for more ice in our drinks. A day of slow progress, yes, but ice with everything...
DAY 14 – Vendredi 21 Janvier, Le Jour du Sainte Agnes
Adélie Land
Noon Position: Lat 66o48’S; Long 141o22’E Air Temp: 2oC
Gourmet Grub: Soupe à l’oignon / Entrecôte et ses pommes de terre rissolées et broccoli / Trevala at sa sauce à l’avocat sur lit de pommes de terre et panache de légumes / Plateau de fromage à partager
Profound Question: “So, how far round does the coast go?”
Quote of the Day: “A book just fell on my head – I’ve only got my shelf to blame.”
Samuel Quote of the Day: “To a killer whale a penguin is just a peanut. A seal, on the other hand, is like a big fat juicy sausage.”
Mawson’s Journal: 21 January 1913. “I got started about 10.00. Surface deep snow, and I had to tackle a very steep slope straight away … I threw away my crampons and the alpine rope and crevasse stick tonight.”
A late night was followed by an encouraging morning. The sun retreated behind the horizon of the polar plateau at about 23.00, burnishing the sky in deep orange, crimson and gold and for a few hours later the surface of the sea ice was lit as if aflame. Those of us on the Bridge in those early hours were rewarded with a sublime last play of colour, but also an improvement in the state of the contorted pack. Temperatures plummeted to minus 10 degrees. It had been a fascinating, and frustrating, 36 hours or so but with every metre gained the momentum began to swing in our favour. Captain Igor and his crew worked through the night to bring us safely through. We had covered over 19 miles of heavy pack ice, averaging a speed of just 0.5 knots. We were moving in the middle of a remarkable natural phenomenon. Never stuck – a word that is so wrongly used – but always on the move, thinking, planning, and making slow but steady onward progress in this most testing of environments. We remember: ‘N’oubliez pas de rester contamment flexible’, to always remain rigidly flexible. A huge well done to Igor for his skill and commitment!
By 05.15 our bow finally nudged clear into dark blue open waters. We saw Minke and Emperors feeding at the ice edge and as others filed into breakfast the bulk of the effort was complete. Another day, a new challenge, and we set our sights on making our first true continental landing at Port Martin. We honour Agnes too at our morning’s briefing as France today celebrates St Agnes Day, a day of benevolence and sacrifice, a Saint’s day in honour of the protection of the innocent. There is clearly a French theme today too; pain au chocolat and a French menu, but more importantly we are also hopeful of making a landing, the first for many years, on the Rocher du Debarquement, the Landing Rock, where Admiral Jules Dumont d’Urville’s expedition made their first landing and claimed this section of the new continent for France on this very day, 21 January, back in 1840. A day of great historical importance. Taking possession, with flags waving and a toast of vintage claret, d’Urville gave this territory the name Adélie Land in honour of his wife Adèle. It is also likely here that the first specimens of the Adelie penguin were also secured.
In strong katabatics we persevered and finally made a wind-swept Zodiac cruise of the islands around Port Martin and the large penguin colony. The hardy souls who came for the ride were rewarded with the chance to touch (and even briefly set their feet) upon the continent. Running with the wind it was an easier return to the ship, just in time for a hearty lunch. We weighed anchor and cruised up the coast through bands of ice toward d’Urville base in glorious sunshine and a stiff polar breeze.
It would be hard to beat an evening such as this. After dinner we successfully made our landing on the Rocher du Debarquement, 176 years to the very day that the French stepped ashore and toasted the tricolour with wine and cheers. On returning to our ship a far greater highlight was in store: the sight of a family of four Orca relentlessly hunting a seal, trapped on a floe in the quiet pink moonlight. It was yet another incredible privilege to witness this aspect of polar nature, a rare gift. Words really can’t describe the aspect of the scene. Well past midnight we were still entranced and, some thousands of photos later, the Orca and seal were still locked in the stalemate. Raw life in the balance; Antarctica in essence. This was beauty here at its finest.
Photo © S.Blanc
Photo © S.Blanc
Photo © S.Blanc
DAY 15 – Friday 22 January
Adélie Land
Noon Position: Lat 66o41’S; Long 140o58’E Air Temp: 2oC
Gourmet Grub: Salmon pate with crustinis / Chicken lau lau on baby corn with melon and champagne sauce / Lamb korma with buttered rice and poppadums / Poached rhubarb with crème anglaise
Profound Question: “Will we be able to see the ozone hole?”
Quote of the Day: “If you can’t explain it to a six year old, you don’t understand it yourself.” – Albert Einstein
Rodney Quote of the Day: “Yesterday is history. Tomorrow is a mystery. Today is a gift, that’s why we call it the present.”
Mawson’s Journal: 22 January 1913. “Blowing and drifting early. Waited… felt weak after march today – must measure ration. Snow is so soft and deep.”
A slow wakening for many after the late night on deck, but we were ready for more. After an early breakfast, time for another landing at Port Martin and the chance to walk ashore beside the Adelie colony, beyond the French ASPA protected zone of the old base, but well worth the effort. The katabatics returned but the wet Zodiac journey was small sacrifice for a continental landing in glorious sunshine. Most are feeling an overwhelming sense of luck: such special opportunities and this prolonged good weather. The disappointment of not reaching Mawson’s hut at Denison is soon forgotten when compared to the natural show that we have enjoyed these past few days.
Before lunch we cruised up the coast and nudged toward one of the few headlands that appear along this ice-encrusted coast: Cape Jules. Home to another huge Adelie Penguin colony we moved our ship in close for a reconnaissance, but after this morning’s success we made no landing instead turning our bow west to chug in deep blue seas along the coast.
Later in the afternoon Samuel gave a short history (though a satisfyingly long lecture) on the ‘Gallant French Explorers’, such as Charcot and Paul-Emile Victor, and also the early efforts to establish bases here in Adelie Land, including Dumont d’Urville. With our visit scheduled for tomorrow, there was much of interest and all were excited by the prospect of our excursion ashore; perhaps some ‘shopping’, writing postcards, maybe and a little red wine too, and following in the footsteps of yet more incredible men. Happy Hour in the bar was especially so tonight, out on the bow in the continued Antarctic sunshine and mill pond serene conditions. Not a breath of wind, with sky and sea, small white clouds and bergs, all united in a mirrored reflection. Back inside for dinner, but before that a charity auction raising some funds for the Mawson’s Hut Foundation. Also raising the bar, yet lowering the tone, Huw introduced the Limerick Contest, which will run for the next few days. Laughter, drinks, and happy faces all round: we’re a contented ship with such rich stories to share. What a sensational couple of days it has been.
DAY 16 – Saturday 23 January
Adélie Land
Noon Position: Lat 66o39’S; Long 139o59’E Air Temp: 5oC
Gourmet Grub: Antipasto platter / Sticky-glazed pork ribs with slaw / Pan-seared snapper fillet with swede mash / Chocolate tart with raspberry compote
Profound Question: “Can you sail east through the Northwest Passage?”
Quote of the Day: “The greatest resource of the ocean is not the material but the boundless spring of inspiration and wellbeing we gain from her.” – Jacques Cousteau
Rodney Quote of the Day: “Antarctica has that A-Factor. No matter what she throws at you, you just keep wanting to come back.”
Mawson’s Journal: 23 January 1912. “We occupied the Hut (some of us, Bage, Hodge, Webb and I). Stove put together.”
Mawson’s Journal: 23 January 1913. “Goggles filled with snow, sledge capsized frequently with wind. Up 06.00 today and in camp 16.30 feeling anxious to push on but no power on account of falling snow obscuring all marks.”
Having drifted gently offshore through the night, at first light the ship moved south through majestic icebergs to anchor off the French base Dumont d’Urville. An early breakfast and briefing, then we were joined onboard by Olivier, the new Base Leader and a member of his team. They outlined the programme for the day which would see all passengers, split into three groups, having special tours around the island. This was a unique opportunity to see behind-the-scenes on an active base, as the first tourist visit here for almost a decade. It was also a welcome return for Samuel, who overwintered here ten years ago. In fact, Rodney had brought a ship in that year and this is how the young ornithologist Samuel learnt for the first time about Heritage Expeditions. We made a quick Zodiac trip to the island’s jetty, a wonderful walk through (and above) an Adelie colony up to the Base, and a warm welcome. Tea and cake, a little shopping, perhaps a game of pool, writing some postcards home, a chat with some scientists, and then a tour around the buildings, including the historic ‘Marret Hut’ half buried in a snow drift. This was where Mario Marret and his team spent a first winter back in 1953, later writing a wonderful account of this pioneering stay as Seven Men and One Penguin. It was fascinating to get a little insight into life on an Antarctic base and most wished they could stay longer; though not, I suspect, for a full winter!
By 18.00 the final group was back to the ship and with anchor lifted, we turned our bow north and bade our farewells to the continent. It had been an astonishing week down here and though we were sad to leave many pledged to return, perhaps to the Peninsula, perhaps on another voyage deep into the Ross Sea. For one thing is certain, as the French explorer Charcot wrote, once you have visited Antarctica it is a land that always tempts you to return:
Where does this strange attraction for polar regions come from, so powerful, so overwhelming, that once safely home we forget the moral and physical fatigues and feel the urge to go back?
Photo © S.Blanc
DAY 17 – Sunday 24 January
At Sea
Noon Position: Lat 69o28’S; Long 145o02’E Air Temp: 2oC
Gourmet Grub: Salmon blinis / Chicken cordon bleu with steamed greens / Pan-seared snapper fillet with butternut pumpkin / Bread and butter pudding
Profound Question: “Can penguins walk backwards?”
Quote of the Day: “The duty of every man is to be honest and to do good.” – Ferninand Hassler
Rodney Quote of the Day: “Let’s burn the candle at both ends, explore till the last moment, and use up every ounce of our time here. You can sleep on the way home!”
Mawson’s Journal: 24 January 1913. “Air thick with drift. Not certain how my strength would go in pitching camp under these conditions, so camped, fortifying myself with an extra stick of chocolate … both my hands have shed the skin in large sheets.”
In light snow flurries and gentle rolling seas we chugged our way slowly north. A late breakfast was the reward after a busy week, and then a day full of films and presentations. We began with ‘Mawson: Life and Death’, which retold the exploits of the great explorer with a modern adventurer recreating parts of his journey. Far better than this, at 11.45 Samuel gave a personal account of his ‘Wintering in Antarctica’, describing his 15 months at the French station exactly ten years ago. He began with a history of France’s stations including the cooperative venture with Italy at Concordia on the Polar Plateau, 1,000km from d’Urville. Other themes included Samuel’s ornithology with the banding of birds along with the attachment of small data loggers and, for seals, more elaborate transmitters. France, which has banded birds since 1953, works closely with Australia on the project. The lecture concluded with an insight into life at the station and we could see why Samuel enjoyed his time there.
After lunch, we returned below to watch the powerful documentary ‘Black Fish’ which detailed the plight of Orca in captivity and the efforts of many to change the way large organisations like Seaworld operate. Having been lucky to see Orca in the wild, most agreed that things must change back at home. Huw’s sixth lecture, ‘Antarctica: Heroic Past, Global Future’, ended the day’s entertainments, with its broad resume of the last 400 years of history, intertwined with contemporary geopolitics plus lots of rare images and pretty pictures of course. Huw showed many rare film clips, including a lovely sequence from ‘With Byrd at the South Pole’. This Oscar-winner was focused on All-American Hero Admiral Richard Evelyn Byrd and his first Antarctic expedition in 1928-1930, during which the base Little America was established on the Ross Ice Shelf. From Little America, Byrd accompanied by pilot Bernt Balchen, relief pilot and radio operator Harold June and photographer Ashly McKinley, completed the first flight to the vicinity of the Geographic South Pole on 28-29 November 1929. This was achieved in a Ford Trimotor aircraft taking 18 hours and covered 1,600 miles. Byrd also took two further aircraft to Antarctica, 50 men, and 95 dogs including his own dog named Igloo, which was always destined to be the real star of the show. Discussion on Antarctic geopolitics continued up in the bar. After dinner most turned in for an early night as the seas began to increase and the final icebergs disappeared in our wake.
DAY 18 – Monday 25 January, Burns’ Night
At Sea
Noon Position: Lat 61o03’S; Long 152o58’E Air Temp: 2oC
Gourmet Grub: Broccoli and blue cheese soup / Chinese style buffet / Tarte aux pommes
Profound Question: “Do penguins nest at sea?”
Quote of the Day: “God gave people two ears and only one mouth; therefore it’s a good idea to listen a lot more than talk.” – Ranulph Fiennes
Rodney Quote of the Day: “Don’t always take the easy route. Beaten paths are for broken men.”
Mawson’s Journal: 25 January 1912. “The roof on. Frame of second hut commenced.”
Mawson’s Journal: 25 January 1913. “A violent blizzard, could not travel … the tent is closing in by weight of snow and is about coffin size now.”
Another comfortable day at sea, with manageable rolling swells from the southwest. Numerous sightings of Storm Petrels and Sooty Shearwaters, though few venture onto the outside decks. Another full day of presentations down in the lecture room and most spend the rest of the day relaxing on bunks, reading and taking tea in the lounge, persevering with scrabble and cards, perhaps sorting through photographs, or updating their journals. Starting things off this morning, Huw gives his seventh lecture, ‘Scott of the Antarctic’, which examined the myth as much as the reality of Captain Scott and his fateful final expedition. Scott’s reputation has ebbed and flowed over the years and it is fascinating to consider why this has been so. Love Scott, or loathe him as some seem to do, it’s hard to imagine the conditions experienced by his companions. “Polar exploration is at once the cleanest and most isolated way of having a bad time which has been devised”, Apsley Cherry-Garrard would later write.
Samuel followed on at 11.30 with an excellent lecture on ‘Antarctic Seals’, with good photographs, many taken by himself. The lecture began with a brief overview of seals and their differences and the biology and adaption of the two families, known as the Otaridae and Phocidae, were carefully explained. Samuel then outlined the four Antarctic seals – Weddell, Crab-eater, Leopard and Ross with mention of the varied dentition linked to diet, securing of prey and for the male Weddell, keeping breathing holes open. The Ross is the smallest and least common of these seals, and it has been a rare treat for us to see some on this voyage. Samuel had promised a bottle of champagne if a Ross could be found; he now offers more peanuts in the bar instead! The discussion that followed also raised the intriguing metaphysical conundrum: what do seals dream about? Samuel knows this to be true, but is unsure at present what exactly makes them smile when they sleep. Catching fish most likely. But, watch this space!
It’s also an ongoing day of crude verse in honour of Rabbie Burns, the Scot’s bard, and so our limerick contest draws to a close. Over 100 entries, some good, some rather awful, but some effort is always better than nothing. We will judge the entries and reveal all in a few days time.
In the afternoon came a screening of the incredibly important film ‘The Last Ocean’. This focused on the tooth-fish industry in the Ross Sea. Dissostichus mawsonii is named after Douglas Mawson and is popularly termed the Giant Antarctic cod. A similar species, called the Patagonian tooth-fish, and known in restaurants as Chilean Sea Bass, is caught by ships operating from South America. There is a need for greater knowledge of the physiology of the species and for the creation of a Marine Reserve, which is being strongly promoted by New Zealand with support from other countries, but at the moment there seems little international agreement or political will to do the right thing here. One hopes that common sense will prevail. Like the ripples from a pebble thrown into a pond, no-one knows for sure the impacts that will occur to the ecosystem following the inevitable overfishing. But you can be sure it’s not going to be good. So we must stop before it’s too late.
DAY 19 – Tuesday 26 January, Australia Day
At Sea
Noon Position: Lat 57o52’S; Long 159o34’E Air Temp: 5oC
Gourmet Grub: Australian king prawn pate / Slow roasted lamb or pork served with medley vegetables / Chefs’ surprise fruit quencher
Profound Question: “What was the Ross Sea called before Ross discovered it?”
Quote of the Day: “Every man has the right to risk his own life in order to preserve it.” – Jean-Jacques Rousseau
Rodney Quote of the Day: “If life throws you boulders, make stepping stones.”
Mawson’s Journal: 26 January 1912. “General turn-in in Hut. Wind outside, roof on just in time.”
Mawson’s Journal: 26 January 1913. “Continuance of blizzard, heavy pelting pellets of radial snow.”
It’s Australia Day and we celebrated with a late brunch of sizzling sausages and, for some, a cold beer. During the night the swells had gradually increased in size from the north, but the programme continued as the seas moderated throughout the day. Huw gave his eighth lecture of the voyage, ‘The Crossing of Antarctica’ – another selection of stunning original imagery from this very important, but often overlooked, journey. It was all drawn from one of from his recent books which he had the honour of making with veteran Everest mountaineer, the New Zealander George Lowe, who was the official photographer on this pioneering Antarctic expedition way back in 1957-58.
A lazy rolling afternoon with the best costume drama movie we could find on the ship, the excellent ‘Longitude’. This focused on the invention by Englishman John Harrison of his clock, and later his watch, in the international prize quest for determining longitude. These beautiful and intricate hand-made instruments can be viewed today at the National Maritime Museum in London. Happy hour came early, so from 17.00 in the bar the beers were flowing. Rodney hosted a specially prepared Australian Pub Quiz, which certainly stretched our knowledge of all things Antipodean to the limit. Fosters, hand-made hats, toasts and laughter all round: it was a great way to spend another long day at sea. If you’re a stickler for tradition, then you can actually lift a glass each day of the week if that is what floats your boat. The naval toasts are as follows: Monday – “To Ships at Sea”; Tuesday – “To Sailors, and Our Men”; Wednesday – “To Ourselves”; Thursday – “To a Bloody War and a Swift Promotion”; Friday – “To a Willing Soul and Sea Room”; Saturday – “To Sweethearts and Wives”; and, lastly, on a Sunday – “To Absent Friends and for All Those at Sea”. Petrels, Fairy Prions, Sooty Shearwaters, Antarctic Fulmars and various Albatross could be seen in the deep troughs and skimming wave crests, but few ventured outside when the bar was in full swing. We had been blessed by good weather and as night drew on the seas calmed. The only real concern for most was whether or not the ship’s beer would run dry. It would be a close run thing.
DAY 20 – Wednesday 27 January
At Sea
Noon Position: Lat 54o44’S; Long 165o29’E Air Temp: 7oC
Gourmet Grub: Spinach and ricotta ravioli / Chicken Marbella with green beans / Barramundi with tomato rice and Cajun shrimp / Lemon cheesecake
Profound Question: “Why is the sauna so hot?”
Quote of the Day: “Happiness is pretty simple: someone to love, something to do, something to look forward to.” – Rita Mae Brown
Rodney Quote of the Day: “Age is just a number. But mine’s unlisted…”
Mawson’s Journal: 27 January 1912. “In hut. Make bunks.”
Mawson’s Journal: 27 January 1913. “Same wind, less snow falling, conditions appear to be moderating somewhat at noon. My clothes and bag and all gear wet…for the last two days my hair has been falling out in handfuls and rivals the reindeer hair from the moulting bag for nuisance in all food preparation. My beard on one side has come out in patches.”
Our luck continues: we wake to bright sunshine and gentle seas. We’re now just a few hundred miles from Campbell Island where we hope to anchor tonight. It’s a day of admin and preparation today: after Part II of ‘Longitude’, the polar blue jackets are returned and we begin to think about our quarantine and biosecurity checks for our landings over the next few days. Seabirds are also increasing in number too, with countless South Royal Albatross, Light-mantled Sooty Albatross, and Cape Petrels throughout the day. A final chance for some retail therapy in the Sea Shop too, then down into the presentation room for Rodney’s introductory lecture on Campbell Island and the joys of the Subantarctic islands. These havens for conservation are beacons of hope in a boundless ocean; remarkable places whose pleasures now await us. Early to bed for most with the promise of adventure tomorrow; meanwhile, tucked away in a quiet corner over a few cans of Fosters, the Limerick judging panel set about honing down a selection of the best for public consumption. Who will emerge victorious? Well, that’s for you to decide.
DAY 21 – Thursday 28 January
Campbell Island
Noon Position: Lat 52o32’S; Long 169o09’E Air Temp: 11oC
Gourmet Grub: Prawn rice wraps / Striploin steak on roasted potatoes and béarnaise / Harissa lamb cutlets with peas and minted jus / Berry meringue
Profound Question: “Do penguins really go out in this sort of weather?”
Quote of the Day: “Life is either a daring adventure, or nothing at all.”
– Helen Keller
Rodney Quote of the Day: “Heading up to look at Albatross colony is like visiting a student flat – nothing gets going until the afternoon.”
Mawson’s Journal: 28 January 1912. “Corner of roof off. Murphy gets in snow.”
Mawson’s Journal: 28 January 1913. “All gear so wet and frozen that most desperate. Also not getting a sight of the sun for direction makes one feel dissatisfied no matter how many miles covered. I prayed for a break in the weather.”
Finally, we’re standing on firm land. Not an obvious pleasure and yet it is wonderful after those long rolling days at sea. The first group gets away under skies laden with clouds that threaten rain – looking rather like the Scottish Highlands – we motored the Zodiacs to the jetty under Beeman Hill in Perseverance Harbour, across slate-grey waters with the occasional curious Sea Lion. The North-West Bay group were away before 09.00 under the leadership of Samuel, off on their 12km-ish ramble in the countryside, which was a huge but rewarding effort for those who braved it.
The majority opted instead to take a morning’s Zodiac cruise and then head up the boardwalk to Col Lyall. The skies cleared by lunchtime and we even saw some sunshine, a rarity for these parts. We enjoyed playful performances from the resident Sea Lions in and around Tucker and Garden Coves. Showing no fear, and naturally inquisitive, this was a nature experience to cherish. First time visitors quickly came to understand the wild beauty of this place, even in the sheltered waters. We also saw some six Campbell Teals, making Rodney a very happy fellow. For a man whose life has been so committed to their cause, it is great to watch Rodney seeing them in the wild again. Admiring these plucky ducks – the world’s rarest, and now fighting back from the brink of extinction they are resurgent on this remote island. The remoteness of this island will hopefully ensure their continued survival.
The 115km2 island was discovered by Captain Frederick Hasselburgh of the sealing brig Perseverance in 1810, the same year as Macquarie Island, also by Hasselburgh, and was named for his employers Robert Campbell & Co of Sydney. The weather can be summarised as typically British – cool, cloudy, wet and windy, often all in the same day – though of course much more extreme than Britain! The island only receives 650 hours of bright sunshine annually and less than one hour on 215 days (59%) of the year. We would have to take our chances with the weather, but expect rain and prepare for it.
Meanwhile, en route to North-West Bay, the team of hardy trekkers was bush-bashing, peat-plodding, and gully-scrambling their way slowly uphill and inland, inching toward the west coast. One section involved walking up a recent landslide, another crawling on hands and knees down a ravine, or brushing through chest-high snowgrass with Sea Lions for company. It was not an easy hike by any means, but it was a satisfying one, and like a future ramble on Enderby Island or tomorrow’s ascent of Mount Honey, it will no doubt improve in the retelling. Glimpses of sunshine, a handful of endemic Campbell Island Snipe, soft drizzle at times, otherwise clear for much of the afternoon. Meanwhile, up on the boardwalk the close encounters with Southern Royals in the tussock were something to cherish.
Campbell is a world centre for Albatross diversity: some six species are breeding, and with the Campbell Mollymawk only found here. Campbell is the Southern Royal’s main breeding ground, with about 8,000 pairs nesting in any one year, and so too the New Zealand endemic Yellow-Eyed Penguin Megadyptes antipodes, which with possibly only 600 breeding pairs is one of the world’s rarest too. The Eastern Rockhopper Eudyptes chrysocome also breeds here, but numbers are struggling for some reason with only a few hundred pairs left. The hillsides are dominated by Poa litorosa tussock and colourful meadows of megaherbs, Pleurophyllum speciosum and Pleurophyllum hookerii, which is also found on Macquarie and the Auckland Islands. So too the Macquarie Island cabbage Stilbocarpa polaris, which is easy for most to identify of not remember all the Latin names! There was such colour here despite the lack of sunshine: the yellow-headed lily Bulbinella rossii, the spectacular purple flowers of the megaherb Anisotome latifolia, which is essentially a large relative of the carrot, tiny blue forget-me-nots Myosotis antarctica and the deep pinks and purple-blues of gentian Gentiana antarctica. The resurgence of plant life on the main island following grazing is also a thing to behold.
The bar was a lively place tonight in the run up to a well earned dinner, full of good stories and warm humour. It was also the setting for the much anticipated LIMERICK CONTEST. Inspired by maritime tradition and dubious polar word play, this limerick-fest was organised by Dr Huw. Passengers offered their entries during our days on the coast of Adelie Land. In all some 113 ‘limericks’ were submitted, in addition to a few suggestion-box comments, postcards, and a love letter for Jenny ‘Gentoo’ Paton scrawled on a sick bag. Sadly, most were not limericks but some certainly deserved maximum points for effort! The judging panel narrowed down this trove to just a final twelve – a ‘Dirty Dozen’ – to be presented as a competition with the winner chosen by the group. The judges were as follows: Dr Suzi Hamilton, Jenny Paton, Dr Huw Lewis-Jones, and, representing the passengers, Ken Reece from cabin #322. Here are a few tasters by Huw, which he peformed as host of the event, to set the scene:
You’ve all heard of brave Captain Scott,
Who sledged to the South from his yacht.
But to win the South Poles,
You need dog sausage rolls,
But poor Scott had forgotten the lot.
There was a wee cruise ship from Russia,
Too strong for the ice that could crush her.
But much more malign,
Was the toilet design,
As the turds all got stuck in the flusher.
Taste and decency prevents publication of many of the inventive entries, but here’s another Huw wrote for our leader, the ‘flexibly rigid’ Mr Russ:
Rodney Russ wants a buxom young bride,
But he keeps getting rudely denied.
So he chanced a quick feel,
Of a well-endowed seal,
That floated his way on the tide.
Suitably encouraged and well-fuelled, the twelve authors of the chosen limericks performed their verses in a packed bar. It was a hotly contested competition and ensured many a good laugh. By popular consent, Suzi’s series of limericks won the show. Here it is in full:
There once was a big expedition,
Which bucked the Antarctic tradition.
For Commonwealth Bay,
Was the theme of the day,
And so Heritage went on a mission.
The Captain was named Rodney Russ,
For him nothing was too much fuss.
Ice and permits be damned,
He would find us some land,
Though it may just cause him to cuss.
We spent many days in the ocean,
With icebergs causing commotion.
Through huge waves we thundered,
Whilst passengers chundered,
And fell off their chairs with the motion.
They’d taken a doctor on board,
The trip of a lifetime she’d scored,
She dolled out first aid,
And cans of Cascade,
For the Aussies, whom she just adored.
For days they crunched through pack ice,
A wonder they’d never see twice.
Heard historical tales,
Saw penguins and whales,
And sights that were worth twice the price.
But the voyage was ending in Bluff,
Where bidding farewell would be tough.
The dulcet French voices,
Huw’s talks, the chef’s choices,
Meant one trip was just not enough.
Well done Doc Suzi! Suitably enough, here’s just another that Huw wrote for you:
So, there once was a doc named Suzi,
Sailed south, became a great floozy.
Penguin, seal, or whale,
As long as they’re male,
For when boozy, Doc Suzi, ain’t choosy!
Believe it or not, Heroic Age expeditions often featured verse contests like this. Writing poems and limericks was a good way to keep spirits up and minds occupied. Shackleton and his men did this kind of thing most Saturday evenings on the Endurance voyage, singing songs accompanied by the banjo, inventing new verses, writing poems, giving lectures, performing plays even, and always making sure to lift a glass with the toast “To Sweethearts and Wives”. It was met with the standard refrain, “May they never meet!”
Photo © S.Blanc
Photo © S.Blanc
Photo © A.Breniere
DAY 22 – Friday 29 January
Campbell Island
Noon Position: Lat 52o33’S; Long 169o09’E Air Temp: 11oC
Gourmet Grub: Caesar salad / Slow-cooked lamb pie with mash / Pork medallions with mushroom risotto / Crème renversée on the table
Profound Question: “Do seals ever get seasick?”
Quote of the Day: “A hero is no braver than an ordinary man, but he is brave five minutes longer.” – Emerson
Rodney Quote of the Day: “There’s no such thing as a free lunch.”
Mawson’s Journal: 29 January 1913. “Low drift and 45 mph breeze blowing … drift hazed everything, so could not well see landscape but apparently ocean coming into view to N with icebergs.”
Friday dawned under gathering clouds. Light airs from the southwest but with the chance of blue skies. Most had enjoyed a luxuriously calm night’s sleep anchored as we were in Perseverance Harbour. Some of the team headed off with Rodney’s Zodiac flotilla in further search of the elusive Campbell Island Teal and Hooker’s Sea Lions along the coast, while a hardy group led by Huw left the ship early to hike up nearby Mount Honey. They enjoyed close encounters with Southern Royals on their nests and those delightful purple daisies – the stunning Pleurophyllum speciosum – still in vibrant bloom. As they reached the summit ridge all was cloaked in mist and drizzle but it was a wilderness experience to be grateful for: a wonderful hike and good companionship.
During the day, bird sightings included a pair of Wanderers, Sooty Shearwaters, Black-Browed Albatross, Campbell Island Shags and some Yellow-Eyed Penguins foraging up the fjord. The hikers had Campbell Island Snipe too, flushed from the tussocks and they plodded for home. By 12.30 everyone was back on the ship for lunch, well satisfied, a little exhausted, but thankful for another magnificent Campbell Island day: the very best of the Subantarctic. At 15.30 some watched the short film, ‘The Impossible Dream’, outlining a small event of huge importance: the re-discovery in 1975 of the Campbell Island Teal on 26-hectare La Dent Island. Thought to be extinct, a conservation effort has brought it back from the brink. It was our very own Rodney who was the man who found the bird and started the events in motion that led to its survival there. At 17.00 we had a briefing lecture on the Auckland Islands and discussed the adventures that await us. With 174 miles to run, it’s a long night out again across the open ocean, but with good weather we should make our anchorage around 05.00 tomorrow.
DAY 23 – Saturday 30 January
Enderby Island, Auckland Islands
Noon Position: Lat 50o30’S; Long 166o16’E Air Temp: 15oC
Gourmet Grub: Beetroot and goat cheese tart / Chicken mignon with garlic butter / Braised beef with cauliflower puree / Semolina and peach pudding
Profound Question: “If it is January at the North Pole, what month is it at the South Pole?”
Quote of the Day: “I must go down to the seas again, to the lonely seas and the sky, and all I ask is a square-rigged ship and a star to steer her by. And the wheel’s kick and the winds song and the white sail’s shaking, and the grey mist on the sea’s face and a grey dawn breaking.” – John Masefield
Rodney Quote of the Day: “Red tape is only good for burning.”
Mawson’s Journal: 30 January 1913. “Made crampons in morning. Found myself on slippery ice overlooking sea … distance deceptive.”
We awoke off Enderby Island in a gentle easterly swell, which made landings a little tricky but not impossible. By 09.00 all were safely ashore and the clouds began to clear with blue skies and warm sunshine. Through the surf we landed at the far end of Sandy Bay, with numerous Hooker’s Sea Lions on the beach and the grassy sward. This season about 400 pups have been born with a further 1,400 on Dundas Island, the main breeding location, which is an encouraging sign but the overall trend of recent decades seems to be one of decline. We all set out along the boardwalk for the north coast of the island, as Yellow-eyed Penguins watched our line file past. Alongside the trail the Southern Rata was still in rich crimson flower, Cassinia, also prolific in New Zealand with its white flowers, at least three species of Gentian with one, Gentiana cerina, a beautiful deep mauve. Of the megaherbs Bulbinella rossii had finished although the occasional plant had a little of the rich yellow flower head remaining. On the north side of the island the pink and white flower of megaherb Anisotome latifolia was also prolific. Ferns grew where branches joined trunks and seedlings of Rata and Dracophyllum and numerous other plants had found a home on cushion plants. We’d all come to know the thick undergrowth here intimately – the ‘tumble in the tussock’ became a familiar mantra for those who chose to walk, happy and weary, right around the island.
On reaching the north coast the day was developing into a glorious one, though here the group split into two: those continuing on for the full hike and others making their way back along the boardwalk to enjoy the scene down at Sandy Bay for the afternoon. In conditions like this the island really is a paradise, whether for the rich plant or bird life. We were able to enjoy the light-mantled Sooty Albatross with chicks, numerous Auckland Island Shag and familiar Red-billed Gulls. Some time later others noted Red-crowned Parakeets, Tomtits, Auckland Island Teal, Brown Skua, Arctic Tern, Giant Petrels with well-developed chicks, more Yellow-eyed Penguins and even some 20 or more Auckland Island Snipe. Intriguing human history featured here too: the surf-lashed black reef with those who drowned buried in the vicinity, a poignant reminder of the wreck of the Derry Castle in March 1887. The merry band of hikers who took on the challenge of the ‘easy walk’ around the island will – in due time, and in the warm glow of nostalgia –fondly remember the many ups and downs, the thick undergrowth, the beautiful megaherbs, surly Sea Lions, the countless falls and sprained ankles. Perhaps you might think it rather a ‘character building’ experience? Most took a tumble, indeed some more than others, but being out in wild nature like this is again such a joy and privilege. Looking back you’ll remember it as a fine day for a gentle stroll along the beach, or as an epic trek in the spirit of Shackleton. When we finally slogged our way happily back to the ship’s bar, most were sure to lift a glass or two to yet another fine Subantarctic adventure. In fact, in terms of beer, today was the day we finally drank the ship dry. No more until you reach Bluff folks!
But this excellent day was not yet over. Taking advantage of these idyllic conditions we made another landing in the early evening, motoring over to Erebus Cove and exploring the site of the ill-fated Enderby whaling settlement. The first settlers arrived here in December 1849 but their optimism soon gave way to despair, terrible weather and a lack of whales. At its peak the community included around 300 people, but by 1852 the settlement was no more, as financial backers pulled the plug. At just two years and nine months, it was one of the briefest colonial experiments in British history. The site had seen five weddings, 16 births and two infant deaths, and their poignant graves can still be seen in the small plot amongst the forest. Today, only two buildings remain: a boatshed and a collapsed castaway depot, both relics of the years after the settlement was abandoned. A carved inscription on the sawn face of an old rata tree commemorates the visit in 1865 of the Victoria, an Australian ship sent to search for castaways.
Photo © S.Blanc
Photo © S.Blanc
Photo © S.Blanc
Photo © A.Breniere
DAY 24 – Sunday 31 January
Ranui Cove, Auckland Islands
Noon Position: Lat 50o31’S; Long 166o16’E Air Temp: 14oC
Gourmet Grub: Asian chicken salad / Sticky Chinese pork rib and stir-fry vegetables / Barramundi fillet with coconut, lime and papaya salsa / Lemon meringue pie
Profound Question: “Do Sea Lions lay eggs?”
Quote of the Day: “I love deadlines. I like the whooshing sound they make as they fly by.” – Douglas Adams
Rodney Quote of the Day: “So, Huw, have you finished the Log yet?”
Mawson’s Journal: 31 January 1913. “Spent all day making new and better crampons. Great difficulty in getting screws and nails – have pulled theodolite box to pieces and now take them out of sledge meter, cooker box, etc.”
Another implausibly beautiful day and yet more history in this unique place. We woke at anchor further in at Port Ross, a fine natural harbour named after the famous English Arctic and Antarctic explorer James Clark Ross who visited here in November 1840. Originally it was named Rendezvous Harbour by the French expedition led by Dumont d’Urville. All were ashore by 09.30, landing at Ranui Cove to explore the Second World War coastwatching hut and enjoy the sounds of the forest. It was a special return again for Rodney, who actually made his first landing here back as an eighteen-year-old wildlife service naturalist and immediately fell in love with the islands. We treasured the silence and the birdsong too, in a morning filled with sunshine; we’ve been saying this a lot this voyage, but it really doesn’t get much better than this! Fearing the incursion of enemy shipping in 1940, the New Zealand government had decided to mount a coast watch at Auckland and Campbell Islands. Code-named the Cape Expedition, the young coastwatchers also established bases at Tucker Cove in Perseverance Harbour – where we were just a few days ago – and at Tagua Bay in Carnley Harbour to the south on the main Auckland Island. Though no German shipping was sighted during the years the expeditions were based here, their presence was a likely deterrent and the greater legacy is the experience it gave to many of the expedition members, among them naturalist Robert Falla and geologist Charles Fleming both of whom became celebrated figures in the New Zealand scientific community. All these decades on, Ranui is the only hut in a good state of repair and it was fascinating to take a quick look inside. A ramble through the forest brought us out onto the top of a lookout bluff where another small hut and tremendous views across the islands were enjoyed.
The anchor was raised at 14.00 just after lunch, and we began the last leg for home. We had another good feed to look forward to tonight, and sleep with the steady roll of the ocean. In the afternoon Rodney gave a short presentation on the Snares and Huw gave his ninth and final lecture at 17.00, ‘Explorer’s Sketchbooks: The Art of Discovery’, with more rich behind-the-scenes imagery from his next book. Thereafter the bar was as lively as ever, with many moving effortlessly from beer to sampling the full range of spirits still on offer and continuing their intake of wine too. It is hoped we don’t run out completely before Bluff, impossible I’d say, but some were giving it a good go! As Graeme finished the final beer, and pre-orders were taken for the final dinner, Huw gave a talk about ‘Why Real Explorers Drink Gin’, and also joked about the historical pleasures of grog, whisky, beer and rum. Having started the day anchored at Port Ross, named for Sir James Clark Ross, it was fitting we ended it by toasting his uncle Sir John Ross, also a notable polar explorer and the first to be sponsored as a private expedition: by a London gin distillery back in 1829! All were united in toasting new friends at the end of another miraculous day of sublime sunshine. You’d be forgiven for thinking sometimes that these explorers made it all sound too hard. We have been so lucky with the weather. As the seas gently grew, nonetheless, we hope to reach the Snares at first light.
Photo © S.Blanc
Photo © S.Blanc
DAY 25 – Monday 1 February
The Snares
Noon Position: Lat 47o45’S; Long 166o58’E Air Temp: 14oC
Gourmet Grub: An overwhelmingly delicious Farewell Dinner, a five-course feast featuring pâté en croute, cream of asparagus soup, pork belly with fennel and apple salad, ‘Reef and Beef’, salmon a loiselle with butternut squash, a cheese board, passion fruit and lime crème brulée
Profound Question: “Is it forecast to be sunny tonight?”
Quote of the Day: “And at the end of our exploring / Will be to arrive where we started / And know the place for the first time.” – TS Eliot.
Rodney Quote of the Day: “Be sure to do something that scares you everyday.”
Today, on Mawson’s expedition: 1 February 1912. The first scientific records are taken at the Hut, a programme that will be carried out throughout the long winter.
Mawson’s Journal: 1 February 1913. “Took till after noon to finish crampons, got away, good weather. After 2 ½ miles arrived at the cairn referred to – found to be Aladdin’s Cave. Great joy and thanksgiving. Found fruit inside.”
The sun rose through broken clouds on this very special Monday morning. An early breakfast, but no exhausting commute or rush to the office for us. Instead, a treasured last day on expedition. Tucked in away from the westerlies on the northeast coast, we had ideal conditions for a Zodiac cruise here at the Snares. The nearest of the Subantarctic islands to New Zealand, the Snares have a highest point of 152m, cover 328 hectares, a mean annual temperature of 11oC and an average rainfall of 1,200mm per year. They are part of the World Heritage Site and have been a nature reserve since 1977. Sea birds were plentiful this morning: Buller and Salvin’s Albatross, Cape and Common Diving Petrels and Sooty Shearwaters in their thousands gathering on the gentle waters. It is sometimes claimed that there are more nesting seabirds here than the whole of the British Isles and it is easy to believe this. Rodney had previously introduced the Snares in full, during a briefing lecture yesterday: from their discovery by Vancouver on 23 November 1791, the subsequent sealing era that decimated the population, details of the geology, botany and ornithology. With the exception of the scientific parties from University of Otago and National Institute for Water and Atmospheric Research (NIWA) no landings are permitted, but we cruised the shoreline with satisfying views of native fauna and flora: such as the tongue-twisting Olearia lyalli, the tall ‘tree daisy’ which dominates the island, Cook’s ‘scurvy grass’, and large tussocks.
The many birds that were seen included large rafts of Cape Petrels and hundreds of endemic Snares Crested Penguins preening and rolling in the waters as we approached, Brown Skua, Buller and Salvin’s Albatross, Giant Petrels, Black and Red-billed Gulls. We also saw a handful of Snares Tomtits, of the many thriving on the island. The most prominent of the bird species here are the Sooty Shearwaters – with a calculated 2.7 million pairs in the early 1970s and hopefully many more in the present. We gently motored in perfect conditions up creeks dense with brown and black kelp, alongside surging wave-cut platforms and into deep caverns, with Hooker’s Sea Lions and New Zealand Fur Seals in abundance. In Ho Ho Bay the huts of the research station established in the 1960s could just be seen as other seals frolicked in the languid waters giving us all many excellent photo opportunities. So much so we returned again for a second date, and sat entranced as they played, jumped and even chewed on the ends of the Zodiac. For many people another highlight was the ‘penguin slide’ with large numbers of Snares Crested Penguins commuting over granite, with the surface worn smooth by multitudes of penguin feet perhaps over hundreds of years.
Safely back aboard, with the last Zodiac operations now completed, we thanked our drivers Samuel, Huw, Agnes, Gentoo, and even chef Connor, for their efforts throughout the voyage, but special cheers of course to our leader Rodney for conjuring up another perfectly sunny day. With the Snares astern on the horizon, twenty Dusky Dolphins gave us a fitting send off, jumping in our wake and racing alongside, darting over wave tops. It was a tremendous morning. By lunchtime we were making great progress in gentle swells heading for the southeast coast of New Zealand, with the aim of anchoring off Stewart Island for our final dinner this evening. For poor Agnes, it’s another hard afternoon in the office, carefully working her way through the mountain of shipboard paperwork. For the rest, a chance to begin sorting out gear, return gumboots and lifejackets, take a moment to reflect on new friendships and experiences, and time to smile and think more about what we have seen and achieved in this past month on expedition. At 13.00 the ‘last lunch’ was enjoyed, thanks again to the efforts of our hard-working chefs. And then, from 14.30 onwards, the final judgement day came. The moment many had been dreading – the time to settle onboard accounts! Agnes called each deck in turn and thence each met their maker. So, with everyone recovered and just about financially solvent, by 17.30 our programme was wrapping up and we headed downstairs again to have the final session in the lecture room. Rodney hosted the ‘Expedition Recap’ in which we shared the highs and lows of our adventure and enjoyed Samuel’s elegant slide show of images and music.
It had been a lovely day of sunshine and admin, quiet reflection and backing-up – memories, photos, journals, addresses – with new friendships toasted over yet more tea and biscuits, or whisky and salt spray on the bow. Stewart Island at last appeared on our port side. By 19.30 the end of our gastronomic odyssey was in sight, with a suitably over-stuffed Farewell Feast. As waistlines expand, Shearwaters and Albatross circled the ship. We anchored in gentle seas and warm evening sunshine. With the Pilot booked for 07.00 tomorrow and our departure scheduled for 08.45, this Log now has its final entry and all that remains to be done is to complete packing, exchange contacts, clear customs and quarantine. The information and ship positions will enable you to plot our course on a chart when you get home and the brief narrative should be helpful when sorting through your photographic record. The limericks might also raise a smile, even though memories of much will fade. But listen to those memories, for in them lives the essence of the ‘A-factor’. The happy times in Antarctica will call out to you when you least expect them. I’m sure you’ll be back. Perhaps your next trip might be to the Ross Sea, or with Heritage to the Russian Arctic. In the words of one of Shackleton’s favourite poets, Robert Browning, “Do you hear the Little Voices?”:
They're calling from the wilderness, the vast and God-like spaces,
The stark and sullen solitudes that sentinel the Pole.
They miss my little camp-fires, ever brightly, bravely gleaming
In the womb of desolation, where was never man before;
As comradeless I sought them, lion-hearted, loving, dreaming,
And they hailed me as a comrade, and they loved me evermore.
And now they're all a-crying, and it's no use me denying;
The spell of them is on me and I'm helpless as a child;
My heart is aching, aching, but I hear them, sleeping, waking;
It's the Lure of Little Voices, it's the mandate of the Wild.
Shackleton longed to return to the ice. The great white south and the majesty of Subantarctic islands rich in wildlife, have this pull factor in abundance. They are areas to be cherished, to be treasured, and to be spoken up for. Be ambassadors for these fine places when you get home, tell your friends and families of the adventures you’ve had. Do what Shackleton did too – feel free to embellish the story a little! A glass of gin often helps. Don’t always let the truth get in the way of a good story. But here’s one absolute truth. I know we’ve all appreciated the hard work of our Expedition Leader Rodney and his team, Captain Igor and his officers, along with Tatiana and her capable staff and the rest of the valuable crew. Our knowledge of the Subantarctic Islands and Antarctica has been richly improved and the expedition will certainly be one that we will remember for many years. In all, we’ve covered some 3,744 nautical miles and return safely on time. In a way nothing, and yet everything, has changed since we left. We return home to our daily lives and routines but remembering this – the rare joy of sunshine on Macquarie and the Auckland Islands, or the force of the Southern Ocean, perhaps the first sound of ice crunching under our bow, the spectacle of Minke feeding at the ice edge, the thrill of standing on the frozen sea as Adelie Penguins waddle for shore, maybe the smells of an old French hut, or the simple feeling of a breeze on your face as you head into the unknown. Real happiness is to be found in the wilderness of our planet. Do come again soon.
Photo © S.Blanc
Photo © S.Blanc
Photo © S.Blanc
