1567: Galapagos of the Southern Ocean 22 Dec 2015
Day 1: Tuesday 22nd December
Invercargill
From all corners of the globe we arrived – from Britain, Canada, Japan, from all over Australia including a contingent of seven members of the Australian Antarctic Division bound for the scientific base at Macquarie Island; a group from China and even a couple from South Sudan! We gathered at the Kelvin Hotel, settled in, and did any last-minute shopping: gumboots for ‘wet’ landings were high on the list for many. For me: decent coffee. In the evening we gathered to meet each other and some of the staff from our ship the Spirit of Enderby and enjoyed an excellent buffet dinner while Rodney Russ the owner of the company, Expedition Leader and passionate conservationist, briefed us about tomorrow. The ship medic Dr Lesley encouraged everybody to get seasickness patches and apply them in the morning so they had time to work before we went to sea the following afternoon. After all, this is the Great Southern Ocean we were to encounter! Then it was time for jetlagged people to get some welcome sleep, despite the fact that the sun does not set here until well after 9pm!
Day 2: Wednesday 23rd December
Embarkation Day
Breakfast buffet in the hotel, then promptly at 9am the staff were there to check in our luggage for transport to the ship. Most of us walked a few blocks to the Southland Museum which has a big permanent exhibition all about the Subantarctic Islands of New Zealand and their history. But first we were taken to a little movie theatre to watch a slide show all about it and then to meet Henry, the 110 year old Tuatara and some of his friends and relations. Lindsay the museum director has spent 40 years working out how to successfully breed Tuatara. Henry himself was guilty of domestic violence towards his girlfriends until a skin cancer in his private parts was found and cured! The programme has involved learning about UV light, the ‘3rd eye’ pineal gland and its role in melatonin production which might even have implications for Cot Death research.
Next we wandered around the Subantarctic Islands exhibition soaking it all up and all too soon it was time to take the bus back to the hotel for lunch. Then it was time to board the bus again (with a rollcall to make sure we didn’t leave anyone behind) for the half hour ride south past wide windy marshland and estuary to the little port of Bluff, nestled at the foot of a sheltering hill. Customs formalities were simple. We all handed our passports forward, the customs officer inspected them, wrote down our names and we were free to depart. We drove past huge piles of logs and woodchip ready for export and there was our ship waiting, with a welcome committee of staff ready to greet us at the top of the gangway, tick us off the list and show us to our cabins. They are basic (this is a 30 year old Russian research vessel) but comfortable. We settled in, retrieved the odd piece of luggage in the wrong cabin and explored our temporary home. Tea and coffee and delicious little scones made by Andy, one of our two chefs was set out for us in the bar/library. Then it was time to make our way down to the Lecture room, way down on the lowest level for yet another rollcall and to be introduced to the rest of the staff. Jessie was our ‘hotel manager’ or ‘cruise director’, the go-to person for any cabin problems. Lecturers were: Alex, who specializes in plants; Tui who loves albatrosses and penguins and who has spent years in these islands taking beautiful photographs and writing books about them; and Katya who trained in atmospheric chemistry and geology and has lots of experience in Antarctica. Our chefs were Conn and Andy and our Lesley was our Medical Advisor.
Then it was time for the compulsory safety briefing – life jackets, muster stations, and so on. Soon we were pulling away from the wharf and heading down the little harbour and out to sea. The ship came to life, lifting and swaying in the swell. Bird spotting started and we saw gulls, Sooty Shearwaters and our first albatrosses. Foveaux Straight is renowned for its weather, but today it only offered a stiff westerly and a moderate sea. As we passed Stewart Island the ship’s horn sounded the emergency signal and we all got into our warm clothes and struggled into the ungainly orange life jackets from our cabins and found our way to the correct muster station. After yet another roll call we squeezed into the enclosed orange lifeboats. It’s pretty claustrophobic in there, but I guess if it came to the real thing we wouldn’t be complaining!
It was now dinner time for most, although some were already a bit queasy and retiring to their cabins as we hit the real ocean and the ship really started to roll. Rodney warns us repeatedly to be careful, always “one hand for the ship”.
Photo credit: A.Fergus
Day 3: Thursday 24 December (Christmas Eve)
The Snares Islands
We arrived early in the morning but too late to see the famous flight of the Titi (Sooty Petrels) as they leave for their day’s foraging at sea. After an early breakfast we had a briefing when we were told that although it was raining lightly on and off, conditions were good enough to go Zodiac cruising. We are not allowed to land on these pristine islands but would still see plenty from the water. We went through the whole landing routine for practice nevertheless. Lifejackets on and tightened, washing boots carefully and dipping them in Virkon to kill any microbiota stowaways, turn our tags to show we are leaving the ship and transfer to Zodiacs as they swish up and down in the swell. It’s quite a challenge for our first time and we soon learn that timing is everything!
Once inshore though, the sea was pretty flat and we pottered along the coastline
listening to Tuis and Bellbirds sing among the trees, which are not really trees at all, but rather two unrelated types of tree daisy – deep green Brachyglottis stewartiae with bright yellow flowers and an Olearia lyalli with silvery green leaves, with an understory of ferns. But the real attraction was…penguins! The local variety is the endemic Snares Crested Penguin and there were plenty about along the rocky shoreline in clusters above the line of swirling strands of kelp. There were seals too, mostly New Zealand Fur Seals, lounging about looking replete. We explored some echoing caves and cruised up a little inlet to see the research huts nestled into a fairly sheltered spot. Some of our guides have spent time there working out the numbers and interdependence of various species.
Back aboard lunch was served as we headed off to sea again towards the Auckland Islands directly south. The wind was northwest, which made for a twisty combination of pitching and rolling, testing our stomachs again! On deck and from the bridge we watched for more birds. There were Skuas, Giant Petrels, Sooty Shearwaters, tiny Storm Petrels and Prions, Bullers, Shy, Wandering and Royal Albatrosses. The ‘Twitchers’ were in heaven! Down below, people bumped around heading for bed. And trying to stay in it!
Photo credit: A.Fergus
Photo credit: A.Fergus
Day 4: Friday 25 December (Christmas Day)
Enderby Island, Auckland Islands
We had arrived! Curious faces peered from the decks to see Ross Harbour and the main Auckland Island with its hilltops obscured by cloud; but we were off Sandy Bay on Enderby Island, which is relatively low and sheltered. The beach, dotted with breeding Sea Lions and a few small huts at its southern end, curved before us. At the briefing after breakfast we were told where we may and may not go, in order to not frighten the shy Yellow-eyed Penguins or annoy aggressive Sea Lion bulls. We carefully checked and vacuumed all shore gear so that no foreign material would contaminate this special place. Then it was line up for boot washing and off to the shore, onto the wave platform at one end of the beach to keep clear of the Sea Lions. We immediately found this was not possible as one had decided that our gathering place in front of the huts was his patch. We admired a handsome plant with large leaves – oh dear it is a giant nettle! Where are the docks to ease the sting? It is not until later that Alex showed us a miniature native dock right underfoot…. Once everybody was ashore, life jackets were stacked in bins and hiking boots put on. We crossed ‘penguin alley’ between two streams and started up the boardwalk which bisects the island up to the west coast cliffs. At first the walkway is enclosed by scrub of flowering Hebes and Dracophyllum, then it leads into tussock country interspersed with our first sighting of Megaherbs! Bulbinella is well named with its saffron yellow globular flowers. Later we came to Anisotome with huge mauve cauliflower shaped flowers. Meanwhile there were lots of little treasures such as cushion plants, flourishing Antarctic bidibid and tiny colourful gentians. At the top of the boardwalk we gathered and looked over the cliff to see penguins flying underwater amongst the waves crashing into the coast far below while a Light-mantled Albatross nested in a crevice on the top.
We split into two groups: one hunting the elusive Auckland Island Snipe, secretive and well camouflaged amongst the grass; another following Alex to admire more Light-mantled Albatross nesting on the cliffs. They are easily the most elegant of the albatrosses. Some of the group returned with Tui, taking their time to notice small things and really soak up this special place. Things such as Sooty Albatrosses courting, listening to their strange calls; a Sea Lion right on the cliff edge and seeing a New Zealand Falcon and parakeets as we walked up behind the beach. Others followed the edge of the island clockwise, mostly along the shoreline, enjoying more views and plant communities. Stilbocarpa became more common and under the shelter of Rata forest, huge leaves the size of restaurant serving dishes were seen. This forest is taller and more open and stunningly beautiful, the more so when a velvety Sea Lion stares at you with limpid eyes from a clearing of silky green moss.
Back out in the open, it is a wild windy coastline with bleached tree skeletons, a small tarn inhabited by a troll-like Bull Sea Lion; some fairly dense scrub to push through, the trail marked with white sticks; and at last the ship swinging in the distance. We were ready for it and slog along the beach, stopping to watch the scene of sex and violence (as Rodney dubs it), and coo at cute new born babies with their mothers and enormous clumsy fathers. Time to put life jackets on, change boots, and board the Zodiacs back to the ship for some rest, but not for long! It was Christmas Day! Everybody cleaned up, lots of us dressed up and then it was time to settle down to a sumptuous five course dinner of broccoli soup, turkey or ham with all the trimmings, tiny individual Christmas puddings, and bonbons if anyone could fit any more. The full moon shone down on us. What a way to spend Christmas!
Photo credit: A.Fergus
Photo credit: K.Riedel
Day 5: Saturday 26 December (Boxing Day)
Musgrave Inlet, Auckland Islands
Who would get up early on Boxing Day? We would! The ship was easy overnight as we steamed down the sheltered eastern coast of Auckland Island, then really quiet from 4am when we anchored in Musgrave Inlet, one of the long narrow harbours formed between lava flows and further shaped by glaciation in the last ice age. We woke to see towering cliffs of columnar lava fringed by a boulder strewn shore line, and upstream a classic U-shaped valley, its head and the surrounding hills shrouded in wind cloud.
After an early breakfast we were off in Zodiacs, watching small colonies of Rockhopper Penguins. There used to be many more, but it is thought that a shift of their favourite feeding grounds in the Antarctic Convergence further south has led to a decline in breeding success. We also saw a few of the local endemic shags and watched albatrosses enjoying the up-draught against the cliffs, swooping back and forth sometimes tandem flying in pairs. Eventually we tore ourselves away and crossed the inlet to explore some wonderful sea-caves, going right inside, where Rodney told us a professionally trained singer had performed an amazing aria on a previous visit. Then we entered another cave which opened into a completely enclosed cove with great stalactites of moss and grasses clinging to the dripping roots of the overhanging trees above. Magic! Katya told us this environment was the result of wave action upon alternating layers of lava and ash from ancient eruptions.
Outside, vast kelp beds swirled and curled and choked our poor outboards, but once free of them, we zoomed into a freshening breeze to a small beach, guarded by an absolutely huge and bad-tempered bull Sea Lion. He had several gashes in his side, possibly acquired when he lost a battle or two and retreated here for a bit of peace and quiet. Maybe he was hoping that some ladies might find him there. He huffed and puffed as we quietly moved past him to find the trail up to Lake Hinemoa. It was marked but hadn’t been used for a couple of years so there was a bit of route-finding required. We wound our way happily through the wonderful ancient twisted Rata forest with its sparse understory of weeping Mapou and Dracophyllum and bright green moss. The atmosphere made us look out for elves and dwarves and small secretive critters. Rodney, who was up ahead leading the charge, reported pig rootings and cat basking-spots. There is a DOC plan to rid the island of these and rodents, but it will be expensive. Imagine wriggling through the dense upper scrub hunting down the last few! We climbed over a bit of terminal moraine then quite suddenly burst through to Lake Hinemoa. Urgent wind-driven waves lapped the narrow shore line and it was quite chilly so before long the line re-formed and we made our way back, sloshing, clambering and leaping the few streams, back to the landing spot where our Sea-Lion watched us from the forest edge. He really was impressive. The guides fetched the Zodiacs from their anchorage out in the increasingly choppy inlet, we washed the mud off our trousers and raced back to the ship and lunch. Chicken croquettes and salad!
As we tucked into lunch the anchor was lifted and we were underway along the south coast of Auckland Island, past the entrance to Carnley Harbour and Adams Island shrouded mysteriously in cloud. Once out at sea the rolling started. The wind was on the quarter and this made for uncomfortable travelling. The bird spotters were in heaven, counting off various species of albatross and petrel, not forgetting tiny prions fluttering in the wave troughs. The ship’s course was altered slightly at dinnertime to reduce the roll, but there were a few unfinished dinners all the same.
Photo credit: K.Riedel
Photo credit: A.Fergus
Photo credit: A.Fergus
Day 6: 27th December
At Sea
After a rather roly-poly night, as Rodney would put it, and a somewhat later start to the day, most of us made breakfast and some of us went on deck to enjoy a bit of heavy weather, or to the bridge to watch the seabirds, wheeling and gliding with enormous grace over the heaving waves. Others stayed in their bunks reading and resting or sat editing and comparing photos in the bar/library area. Lectures were cancelled for the morning. By lunchtime however the weather was beginning to ease, the sun broke through as the front passed over and the wind changed to southwest which made the ride a lot more comfortable. Alex gave a fascinating rundown on the plants of the different islands and the reasons for varying biodiversity such as size and age of the island, climatic limitations, geological origin and so on. This was followed by another presentation from Tui, this time on photography. Topics included lens selection, trying different angles, lighting (soft light or dawn/dusk are often best), composition – keeping it simple – and remembering to ‘tell a story’ of some kind. Perhaps her most important point was taking as much time as possible and waiting for that magic moment when it all comes together. Later Rodney told us all about Macquarie Island so we could prepare for our visit the following day. He covered geology, history, plants and most importantly, the animals. The presentation also included shots of some of the areas we will not be able to see on our short visit. Dinnertime offered Lamb Backstraps or Chicken Supreme, followed by an amazing chocolate brownie with raspberry coulis… we were so spoilt! The sun now shone until 10:30pm, the sea was vast and quiet, the albatrosses soared above us and the horizon stretched the full circle around us.
Day 7: 28th December
Macquarie Island
The Spirit of Enderby was at anchor in Buckles Bay at the isthmus joining the two parts of Macquarie Island when we woke. The ANARE base gleamed in the morning light and the island lay gaunt but green, every detail of its steep slopes etched in the morning light. Excited faces hurried through breakfast, but first our seven visitors from the Australian Antarctic Division, who are replacing another seven going home, would disembark and head for their new quarters. We went through the quarantine process again, carefully checking and vacuuming all our gear to be sure not to bring anything alien to these shores. We were joined by four rangers from the base who briefed us on protocols whilst ashore. The ship steamed along the coast to Sandy Bay (which is in fact more gritty than sandy) and we were briefed as to the attractions and the boundaries for wandering.
Soon we were ashore and surrounded by gorgeous tall King and feisty Royal Penguins. The beach was littered with them, along with great heaps of torpid moulting weaner and sub-adult Sea Elephants, wallowing, scratching and doing a lot of snoring. Now and then they raised their heads and snorted or had a bit of a joust with a neighbour before inevitably collapsing back on top of each other, a friendly flipper over the rival. We picked our way amongst all of this wildlife and there was no way they had heard about the 5-metre rule! Nevertheless none of the creatures was at all bothered by these funny smelling, tall colourful penguins shuffling past them with clicking and whirring cameras (the record for the day was 3,500 photos!).
Along the beach was a stream used as the front entrance to the Royal Penguin colony up the hill a bit. A constant stream of them pattered back and forth along this highway with typical ‘penguin persistence’ undeterred for more than a few moments by any obstacle, large or small, animate or inanimate. Humans, though, must follow the boardwalk up the hill, appreciating the return of tall grasses now that the rabbits and rodents have been removed. We also admired clumps of handsome silvery Pleurophyllum which was just putting up its first flowers. At the top of the boardwalk the whole valley full of Royal Penguins is first smelled, then heard, then revealed.
It is a city of activity – coming and going from the sea, fighting over personal space, tending fledging chicks, gazing aghast when a chick is snatched by a Skua. You could watch for hours.
Back along the beach, the Kings dominate and at the far end of Sandy Bay a colony of about 7,000 of them clustered. Humans are not permitted to enter this area – there is no elbow room for penguins, let alone us! And then there is the wave platform, Royal territory. They stand in clusters on the rocks, play and wriggle off moulting feathers in the rock pools and swim amongst the swirling kelp, emerging from the tangled strands and squabbling with each other. There were cheers when a few Rockhopper Penguins were sighted amongst the crowd. All too soon it was lunchtime and as no food is allowed ashore, we returned to the ship to eat lasagne and salad. After lunch most of us returned to the beach for another helping of wonder as the clouds came in to obscure the sun as the afternoon progressed. Eventually we had to tear ourselves away from this entrancing environment. Back aboard we cleaned up and enjoyed drinks at the bar before dinner. The rangers joined us for the meal and spent the night on board so they could accompany us ashore for a tour of the base the following morning. The cloud had come right down to sea level by dinner time, but we had enjoyed a stunning day at Sandy Bay.
Photo credit: A.Fergus
Photo credit: A.Fergus
Day 8: 29th December
Lusitania Bay and Macquarie Island Base
We woke early again to see Macquarie shrouded in cloud. Everything was grey and a cold wind was blowing with a threat of rain on its wings. Fortunately the planned Zodiac cruise to look at the huge penguin colony at Lusitania Bay went ahead, despite a rather splashy trip to the shore. The colony is huge and runs more than a kilometre along the shore, extending inland a couple of hundred metres in places. This entire area is solid penguins! Nearly all are Kings, but the ocean boils with Royals and a few Rockhoppers too. Somebody started humming ‘We’ll Never be Royals’ and we all laughed. Our Zodiacs bounced and swooped as close inshore as possible on the swell – we were not allowed inside the breaker zone – nor did we want to be, with all those expensive vulnerable cameras waving about! We didn’t want kelp up our plumbing either. A few weaner Sea Elephants jousted on the foreshore, while Petrels and Skuas swooped overhead on the lookout for the weak and the dead, but really it was all about the penguins, some 350,000 of them. The sight is simply astounding. They surrounded the rusty digesters set up a hundred years ago to turn them, en masse, into oil. How ironic! The weather became threatening so it was time to move on. Getting back on board was a bit of a challenge, but with a reassuring grab from a trusty crew member we all managed to scramble safely back aboard. We tucked into a late breakfast as we steamed back up the (almost invisible) coast to the base. This is a loose and rather motley collection of buildings scattered over a sandy isthmus between the main island and the smaller North Head. It looks vulnerable to storm, let alone Tsunami (being at the junction of two tectonic plates, there are frequent earthquakes). Later we were told that it is indeed vulnerable as waves swept over the lowest area in a big storm last winter.
We waited for the wind to become favourable before we washed our boots then loaded up the Zodiacs to make our way ashore. It was a wettish landing onto slippery boulders and we also had quite a swell to contend with. Once everyone was ashore we set off in groups of ten to tour the base. This covered the historic penguin and elephant seal oil operation (the subject of the first ever mass conservation protest); the Gentoo Penguin colony in the middle of what passes as ‘the main road’; the mess hall, warm and welcoming with Milo and freshly made scones; the western beach, rocky and wild in the cold fresh westerly; and a walk up a staircase to a lookout on the top of nearby Razorback Hill.
Cameras snapped Giant Petrels (including a white one), Skua and shags as we walked. At the bottom of the staircase a very large Sea Elephant blocked our way with his menacing jaws wide open. He was clearly not pleased with invaders on his patch and had no intention of moving off! We ducked under the bannisters one by one and sidled quickly through the tall poa tussocks down to the road. Phew!
The tussock – newly grown since a massive operation to rid the island of rats, mice, and rabbits – is full of Elephant Seals. One suddenly sees a pair of liquid eyes in a huge languid pussycat face peering out, or hears a loud bubbling burp escaping. Fortunately there were no further blockages as we made our way to the beach where Rodney was waiting to tip us back into Zodiacs, four by four, for the ride back to the ship, easy now on a flat sea in sunshine!
Lunch was served on our return at 4pm! There we met our new companions, seven from the base who would be returning with us to Bluff and ultimately to Australia.
Then it was time to depart for Campbell Island, back north east, so had been the farthest south we would go. We had a day at sea with the wind behind us to look forward to! In the evening we watched a documentary film about the pest eradication programme on Macquarie Island and after a late dinner, a re-cap on the day and a last glimpse of birds lit by the last golden light we watched the sun set at 10:40pm.
Photo credit: K.Riedel
Day 9: 30th December
At Sea
What a lovely relaxing day we had! The sun shone and the sea was so gentle you wouldn’t believe this was the Great Southern Ocean – it was more like the tropics! Several people sported sunburn by the end of the day! We read and played cards, we listened to Tui talk about ‘Albatrosses and Penguins: their World, their Ways’ accompanied by more of her entrancing photos. Alex gave a talk on Campbell Island also with great pics and in the afternoon Rodney also gave a presentation with some of the same pics! The birdwatchers were a bit disappointed as there was not much about. Maybe the birds were taking a rest too in the unusually balmy weather!
As night drew in we heard that there was a front due over in the night, but it was hard to believe as everything looked so benign when we retired to our cabins.
Day 10: 31 December (New Years Eve)
Campbell Island
At bedtime last night a jagged silhouette of an island could just be seen on the horizon and at 2am the engines changed their tune – we were at anchor in Perseverance Harbour. The morning brought an unwelcome sight with low clouds scudding across the harbour and these were accompanied by a stiff wind funnelling down the nearby valley. At the briefing after breakfast we were presented with two options: the ‘Long Walk’ across the island to Northwest Harbour then looping back – cold, wet, misery guaranteed, Albatrosses and Megaherbs in flower also promised; or Zodiac cruising and a shorter easier walk up the boardwalk to the Col Lyall Saddle. Twenty three people put their hands up for the hard stuff and were told they would regret it!
Decision made, it was downstairs to the vacuum cleaners with the words “we don’t want to bring anything Aussie here!” ringing in our ears (apart from some rather nice people of course!) Packed lunches were created, warm waterproof clothes donned and packed and the ‘Long Walkers’ were off in the Zodiacs to Tuckers Cove. After a quick look at the abandoned Coastwatcher/Metservice station the group headed up the hill. The mud was immediate. We squelched through very ordinary paddock grass, up through Dracophyllum, then through semi-open cushion bog where our first Megaherbs appeared. First it was the Bulbinella with its yellow-orange candles, then the purple cauliflower heads of Anisotome and the chocolatey purple buttons of Pleurophyllum hookeri. Someone noticed tiny orchids and we are on our knees with our cameras contorting ourselves to get ‘That Photo’. Later we stopped for a break on a landslide and noticing lumps of ‘sort of’ pumice from the volcanic action that created this island.
Soon we were up in cloud, trying to stay together as we picked our way along the track. It was windy with light rain falling off and on, the kind that gets into every crevice of your clothing. But it was worth it when we got to the fellfields of flowers along the cliffs. Masses of Bulbinella, interspersed with great purple heads of Anistome and the extraordinary stalks of Pleurophyllum with their chocolatey button flowers assaulted our senses against an alternating background of cloud and spectacular limestone cliffs (a geology lesson in themselves) with the sea crashing far below. Besides all this, here and there we spotted Giant Petrel nests with great big fluffy chicks, or better still, a Royal Albatross sitting with truly royal dignity and patience on its circular platform nest. They really are huge! It is a breath-taking sight and we feel a real sense of privilege to be here! Next we descended slowly down the ridge, then rather rapidly down a very narrow slithery gully to the ‘beach’ of smooth white limestone rocks for lunch. During our break we were entertained by a rather angry Sea Lion who ranged up and down huffing at us in a threatening fashion and occasionally taking an experimental bite at Alex’s heavy waterproof bag that was being used as a shield. Fortunately for Alex he didn’t seem to like the taste!
Uphill we went again and contrary to the weather forecast, the rain had really settled in by now. We pushed our way through scrub to Northwest Hut where we peeked into the musty abandoned interior and took a group photo. Then we sloshed through mainly grassland onto the col with Mount Dumar, where there were lots of Royal Albatross nests. We watched them ‘gamming’ (hanging together chatting) and soaring close overhead in the wind. But it was cold and we were all wet, so we kept moving, sidling the ridge inland until suddenly we arrived at a large cave in some rocks where we could stop for a welcome respite from the weather and a very welcome chocolate biscuit! After a short breather it was down, down, down, through weird Dracophyllum ‘forest’ to the shore at last where we could inspect the site of the dwelling of the ‘Lady of the Heather’ and the ‘Loneliest Tree in the World’ (a very multi-stemmed but fairly healthy old Sitka Spruce). Rodney was waiting with the Zodiacs and we waded aboard managing to rinse SOME of the mud off, before motoring back to the ship. Back aboard it was a case of boot wash, leg wash, bum wash and aaaah! hot showers, dry clothes and a warm drink. That was quite a day!
The other group report a fascinating day also. At 9.30am the Zodiacs were loaded and off they went seeking the Campbell Island Flightless Teal Anas nesiotis .This tiny bird became extinct on the main island of the Campbell group from predation by Norway Rats and then was re-discovered by the one and only Rodney Russ in 1975 as an isolated population on Dent Island. Small in stature it may be, but the teal has plenty of personality. Several individuals and even a pair, the male with an iridescent green head and the female smaller with a brown head, were sighted during the morning, feeding, squabbling and being harassed by Antarctic terns in the kelp and rocks of the shorelines. From a scarce rarity 40 years ago, thanks to a successful breeding programme and re-introductions after the successful eradication of rats from the island, the teal has established a healthy breeding population once more on Campbell Island. The Zodiac cruise continued through the bays and coves of Perseverance Harbour, visiting the ‘Loneliest Tree in the World’. Standing above the heath and Dracophyllum scrub, this single spruce pine planted by sheep farmers in the 19th century now boasts World Heritage listing and enjoys regular summer visits from expeditions such as ours. Near the lonely tree is the site of the legend of ‘The Lady of the Heather’. This relates to the story of a woman marooned on the island in the 19th century. Part fact, part fiction, the site of the old hut now supports a healthy stand of flax. The Zodiacs also landed at another historical site where an old shepherd’s hut once stood. All that remains now is a cast iron coal range, two-thirds of a leather shoe and an occasional glass flask bottle amongst a few brick-ends scattered along the shoreline. We continued the cruise past Venus Cove, site of an 1874 French expedition to watch the transit of Venus. One of the party died whilst on the island and is buried at the top of a small promontory. There are several other old graves on the island, including that of Frederick Hasselborough who discovered the island in 1810. We also visited Garden Cove, a gentle slope down to the shoreline where shepherds once attempted to grow vegetables. Sea Lions kept us company throughout the morning, mainly young males undulating and poking their noses through the water or establishing their patch on the beach. There were plenty of kelp gulls along the shore, and one Zodiac was treated to the sight of a kelp gull repeatedly dropping a mussel onto the rocks to crack it open and feed on the tasty morsel inside.
After a well deserved picnic lunch back on board the Spirit of Enderby, there was time for a quick nap or a chat and a reinvigorating cuppa, before it was back into the Zodiacs for a much anticipated stroll up the Col Lyall boardwalk. A large bull Sea Lion initially blocked our passage as we made our way from the wharf area to the old Meteorological Station, now abandoned as observers have been replaced with automated technology. There were two types of walkers – those keen on stretching their legs and making a quick ascent to the top, and those happy to amble along at snails pace, stopping to regularly observe the minute. Once clear of the Dracophyllum scrub, the island vegetation opened into tussock grassland where we caught the first glimpses of the Royal Albatross, hunkered down against the biting wind driven mist and rain. Why they would choose to live in such an inhospitable climate remains a mystery! Rodney, playing tail-end-charlie to the group assured us all that we would be up close and personal to more accessible albatross as we got closer to the top, so the group started their slow ascent again, stopping to marvel at the huge Pleurophyllum criniferum plants that now dotted the landscape. Soon, they gave way to the first of the spectacular Pleurophyllum speciosum plants, with their leaves of corrugated cardboard and the first flowering specimen was subjected to a barrage of camera lenses as we all wanted to capture that beauty forever in our memories. The concentration of megaherbs increased in the protected gullies, replaced with the tussock grasses where the constant wind exposure would rip them to shreds.
The slower group then started to meet the first of the cold and bedraggled, but elated expeditioners returning from the summit of the boardwalk. Most of them expressed their awe at what lay ahead, encouraging those who perhaps had misgivings about their decision to venture into the rain, fog and wind. But out of the mist, a major enticement started to appear – a Royal Albatross clamped down against the weather on a nest right next to the track. Apparently unfazed by the invasion of strangers into its world, the beautiful bird passively sat incubating its egg whilst appearing to pose for the cameras. A couple of the keen photographers ventured 100m or so off the track into an area where general access is permitted and found another bird happily nestled in amongst the Bulbinella flowers, providing the perfect photographic setting. Despite the rain and the risk to camera equipment, these two made the most of every minute they could with these special creatures, in case they didn’t have the opportunity to return the following day in good weather. It was tough and wet equipment, saturated clothing and foggy lenses didn’t help. Then there was the fog and how to capture the surrounding and context of the lives of these birds when the background was invisible, only glimpsed occasionally when the weather allowed. Further up the boardwalk, many sat in absolute awe on a well placed seat protected from the westerly winds. The source of their awe was an expanse of megaherb garden, complete with the most spectacular flowers poking their heads up above the sea of massive green leaves. Most flowers were the pink and purple hues of the giant carrot, Anisotome latifolia, which was at the peak of its production. Occasional early flowers of the Emperor Daisy and button daisies intermingled with the fading yellow flowers of Bulbinella rossii; the buds of the daisies hinting at the spectacular riot of colour that was soon to explode on the slopes of Col Lyall. One Royal Albatross had chosen the perfect nesting site, overlooking this most beautiful of nature’s gardens.
For the hearty souls, the terminus of the boardwalk awaited, but required moving into the exposed lip of Northwest Bay, where the winds increased significantly and even standing was challenging. With no view due to the low cloud, most chose to stay in the protection of the megaherb garden, before making the journey back to the ship. The return journey provided an opportunity for ‘team botany’ to poke about in the vegetation, seeking the elusive blue flowers of Hebe bethamii, and ogling over the myriad of orchid species to be found beside the track. Frustratingly, the calls of the Campbell Island Snipe could be heard in the distance, but not a single bird was to be seen. All too soon, it was 6pm and time to make a quick return to the wharf where there were still more things to see. A Sea Lion rolling in the grass accidentally rolled over the edge into the water before picking itself up and indignantly glaring at the humans that must have been responsible for its misfortune was the highlight while waiting for Rodney’s water taxi service to take us back to the ship.
Then it was time for the festivities to begin! The bar filled with cheerful voices, an amazing number of party frocks and nice shirts – even a bow tie! The conviviality was carried downstairs to a slapup buffet dinner complete with three meats and all sorts of veges; champagne all round courtesy of Heritage Expeditions; Kiwi Pavlova for dessert; and back to the bar/library afterwards. Towards midnight those of us still at it repaired to the top deck where we enthusiastically counted in 2016 with the faint trace of sunset still on the westward horizon outlining the silhouette of the volcano that surrounded us. We hummed and stumbled through ‘Auld Lang Syne’ and finally, for a few die-hards still on deck later there was the really special New Year treat of a shimmering Aurora Australis. What a way to see in the New Year!
Photo credit: K.Riedel
Photo credit: A.Fergus
Photo credit: A.Fergus
Photo credit: A.Fergus
Day 11: 1 January 2016 (New Year’s Day)
Campbell Island
Rodney was up at sunrise (5am) to check the weather and wake those crazies who had signed up for another strenuous tramp, this time to nearby Mount Honey, the highest point on the island. It was capped in cloud but we hoped that it would clear by the time we got there. We pulled on half-dried clothes, snatched a light breakfast and rode the Zodiacs into Camp Cove at the head of the harbour. As usual a large Sea Lion came to check us out, but decided we are boring and swam off. We set off – again over pasture grass booby-trapped with Elephant Seal wallows at first – then climbed uphill between walls of Dracophyllum scrub. Ryan wanted to know why we weren’t heading straight to the hill. I didn’t know, but there was no choice but to follow the track through the dense stuff! We emerged onto rolling tops with cushion bog and tiny orchids and amazing white coral lichen, then started the ‘rollercoaster’ across the flanks of the mountain, each dip plunging us into tallish Dracophyllum. Alex pointed out that some of it exceeded 5m and therefore may be called a tree. We also encountered the occasional challenging mud-hole or peaty stream. Gradually we ascended and then turned uphill in earnest, following a surprisingly well defined track with slim plastic marker poles to the edge of the Dracophyllum into tussock country studded with Royal Albatross nests. The birds endured our attention with stately dignity as we clicked away; as Rodney says, they are not morning birds! Now it was every man for himself as we made our way up the ever-steepening mountain over squelchy slithery grass, mud, and then wide fields of Bulbinella increasingly peppered with beautiful Pleurophyllum and Anisotome and even a few Stilbocarpa. Alex found some of Jessie’s ‘Forget-me-nots’ and as she said, they are tiny, hardly bigger than a penny. Views to the south coast opened up – Monument Harbour and Six-foot Lake look very beautiful framed by the long wide slopes and valleys around. On and up, it was getting colder now and we were willing the cloud to lift, but it didn’t and we reached the top in cloud and mist. There were even a few flakes of snow! After a snack and a group photo it was time to go down again and of course this was a whole lot faster, but there were quite a few bum-slides along the way and Ryan was seen up to his knees in mud, fishing for a lost shoe. We were tired but happy when we met the boat to return to the ship. It was great to complete our last boot wash, take off our lifejackets, have a warming shower and tuck into some serious food.
Those of us who didn’t join the hike or revisit the boardwalk on Col Lyall took a Zodiac cruise up to the mouth of Perseverance Harbour. The plan was to look for Light-mantled Sooty Albatross and teal, and we were rewarded with many sightings of both. Two teal were spotted still sporting bands from the re-introduction programme, a great confirmation the birds are doing very well on the island. Four Light-mantled Sooty Albatross were seen on their nests along the cliffs faces, a gorgeous sight amongst the giant purple Anisotome flowers and tussocks draping the volcanic rock. Several pairs were courting and calling, a wonderful display to see and hear. Yellow-eyed Penguins were peering through the vegetation cloaking the cliff faces and scrambling down to the waterline giving confirmation that these solitary little penguins are accomplished climbers! We cruised past two large Sea Lion colonies and were able to see the tiny pups born this year amongst the towering males and protective females. In the mouth of the harbour was the gruesome sight of a dead seal floating on the tide, being devoured by a large flock of Giant Petrels. The photographers were able to capture some excellent images of Giant Petrel behaviour and display as the birds fought over the carcass, establishing the day’s pecking order. The Zodiacs passed stunning displays of columnar basalts as they made their way back up the harbour to the ship. Shaped by the volcanic processes which created Campbell Island, the basalt columns give the cliff faces a sculpted look and really bring to life the dramatic history of the islands.
The anchor went up as lunch was served and afterwards everyone was on deck enjoying the glorious sunshine as we said goodbye to this last and most glorious island of the trip. Slowly the ship eased out of Perseverance Harbour, past Davis Head with its penguin and seal colonies, and along the rugged outer coast of Campbell Island. Hundreds of seabirds of all kinds escorted us from this our last port. As we reached the open sea the ship came alive with a gentle roll and we were on our way home. Our Macquarie friends were brimming with excitement as they had not seen loved ones for many months. As for the rest of us, who can say? It had been a wonderful journey and we each took with us some treasured memories and stories to share for the months and years to come.
Photo credit: A.Fergus
