1561: Birding Down Under 16 Nov 2015
16 November 2015
Invercargill – Bluff, at sea enroute to Snares
Departure day had arrived. After breakfast at the Kelvin Hotel, bags were packed and labelled, ready to be sent to the ship. A leisurely morning was spent by most at the Southland Museum and Queen’s Park, where there was information on the Subantarctic region, Tuatara to eyeball and even Antipodean Parakeet to be spotted at the garden aviary. Lecturer Sav was on hand to answer questions and assemble the troops for a 14:00h arrival at the ship, anchored in the Port of Bluff. Once people were settled in their cabins, life raft and Zodiac briefings were held in the shelter of port, as well as a general introduction to the ship. We were told to hunker down and prepare for a rough evening, as winds were gusting 35 – 40kts across Foveaux Strait. Watching the Pilot leap from our ship to their smaller vessel amongst the tossing swells was nerve wracking, but he made it look like a walk in the park! Onwards through the Strait, we picked up the usual suspects on the wing: Sooty Shearwater, White-capped Mollymawk, Southern Royal Albatross, Diving Petrels, Red-billed Gulls, Stewart Island Shag, Black-backed Gull, Cape Pigeon etc. Ticks were already beginning to mount! We tucked into the lee of the east coast of Stewart Island for the lifeboat drill (everyone made it out alive- great work!) and dinner, before pushing out into open water in order to make a beeline for the Snares overnight. Overall a rough first taste of the Southern Ocean, but a small insight into her true might!
Photo credit: Heritage Expeditions
17 November 2015
The Snares – at sea enroute to Auckland Islands
The Snares were visible on the horizon at first light, and those up early were treated to viewings of Salvin’s Mollymawk, Mottled Petrel, Fairy Prion, Diving Petrels, Sooty Shearwaters and Giant Petrel amongst others. Unfortunately, as many had noticed rolling round in their bunks, the wind had increased and switched round to the south-west and the swell was very confused. This meant putting Zodiacs in the water for a cruise around the shoreline was impossible, so we were resigned to a ship cruise only. The penguins were very obliging and showed themselves in good numbers on the slopes around Hoho Bay and also in rafts closer to the ship. Sharp eyes spotted several Antarctic Terns and Brown Skua too. All too soon, we had to push out of the small shelter provided by The Snares and into the roaring gales of the Southern Ocean, as we hunkered down and prepared for a grunty push on to the Auckland Islands. Some braved the weather out of deck, though slowly but surely more and more took to their bunks in order to ride out the storm.
Photo credit: Heritage Expeditions
Photo credit: R.Sagar
18 November 2015
Auckland Island: Hardwicke Settlement and Ranui Cove
We slogged through the night in rough conditions, which worsened around 3am. The head wind slowed us down but much to everyone’s relief we finally made it into the sheltered waters of Port Ross around 7am. Many were relieved to leave their bunks for the first time since departure and took the opportunity to boost their energy levels with a hearty breakfast. During the post-breakfast briefing, Nathan kept expectations in check as conditions for landing on Enderby Island were not looking favourable. After a recce run in the Zodiac with Martin, it was deemed too unsafe to make a landing today due to dumpy breaks. Instead, we pulled anchor and headed for the interior of Port Ross and more sheltered waters, where many took the opportunity to stretch the legs having a look around the Hardwicke Settlement. Only a graveyard, two dilapidated sheds and tree engraving remain of the once bustling settlement of 300 whalers, Maori and their families. The twisted regenerating Rata trees, with mossy trunks gave the forest the feel of a fairy land, but the impact of the pigs, and cats and mice was noticeable through the lack of bird song and only a few bird sightings (Bellbird, Tui and Tomtit). Bring on the eradication! A juvenile male Sea Lion thoughtfully struck poses for us on the beachfront, appearing most disdainful of our presence. To everyone’s delight, a nesting pair of Yellow-eyed Penguin was spotted amongst the tussocks during a Zodiac cruise around Shoe Island en route back to the ship. We ate our packed lunches back on board as we lifted anchor and nosed back around towards Ranui Cove. Here, many took the opportunity to come ashore at a mossy cove where the Coastguard house in use between 1939 & 1945 sits. Following the transmission wire up the hill, we came to the lookout post and survey marker overlooking Port Ross. This gave us glorious panoramic views over Auckland Island and back towards Enderby. We revelled in the sunshine as we took it all in. All too soon we set off downhill again and onto the Zodiacs, getting back in time for dinner in calm waters (hurrah!). The call was made to stay in sheltered waters overnight, with a second attempt at Enderby in the morning.
Photo credit: R.Sagar
19 November 2015
Enderby Island and at sea enroute to Macquarie Island
At 05:30h the wakeup call came for those eager to rise and head out for a pre-breakfast Zodiac cruise. Bleary eyes soon gave way to keen ones, with the anticipation of spotting an Auckland Island Teal. Initially, we were rewarded with excellent views of the shags nesting on cliff ledges above us, Yellow-eyed Penguins bracing themselves for a day at sea and even a pair of Brown Skua working hard to extract a meal from the shag colony. Soon word of a teal amongst the kelp got out, and we managed excellent views of it feeding as it puttered amongst the kelp, even swimming close to the Zodiacs en route to another kelp bed. A sheen of green on the head revealed a male teal, though with no partner in tow. Maybe a bachelor bird or perhaps she was tucked away on a nest? Boats full of happy punters were whisked home for a quick breakfast, before being ferried back out for the much-anticipated landing at Enderby Island’s Sandy Bay. Making land at 0800h, we were greeted by 30-odd Yellow-eyed Penguins on the nearby dunes, and Pippets busy grubbing amongst the sand. Dodging curious Sea Lion bulls, the group made its way over the board walk through Rata and Dracophillum scrub, followed by swampy fields of tussock and Bulbinella, to the northern end of the island. Here we re-grouped so that everyone who wanted could have the chance of seeing the much anticipated Auckland Island Snipe. Spreading out in a line, we scanned the tussocked area and it wasn’t long before one was spotted, and everyone had a chance to see it up close. Mission accomplished, some set out for a leisurely walk home, while others remained to watch the synchronous courtship flights of the Light-mantled Sooty Albatross, while Southern Royals also reeled overhead. The wind was brisk, but the sun shone out and many enjoyed taking their time getting back to the beach. Many of the mega-herbs were in flower: several Stilbocarpa were in full bloom with a delicate scent, some Bulbinella were out, and Anisotime were still to come through. Back at the beach, juvenile bull Sea Lions warred amongst themselves and had a go at us in lieu of another competitor as we went past. Those brave enough to make it past them were treated to excellent views of four teal in the surf and kelp close to the landing spot – the cherry on top of an outstanding morning. A late lunch was enjoyed by the contented masses, and as we set off for Macquarie we were pleased to find that the northerly wind had smoothed the seas. We certainly hoped it would stay that way! A very pleasant afternoon was whiled away by many on deck: birds were plentiful and the breeze not too crisp. Several pairs of Light-mantled Sootys wheeled around the ship, stormies danced on waves and prions rolled gleefully through the swells. The sea built slowly after dinner and we were rocked to sleep by the rhythmic roll of the ocean.
Photo credit: G.Bodo
Photo credit: R.Sagar
20 November 2015
Over the Emerald Basin: at sea enroute to Macquarie Island
A sleep-in and late breakfast were welcomed by most, as we settled into a relaxed day at sea. The Macquarie Team of Kate, Mel and Margi donned their guest lecture hats and entertained us with thorough and personal insights into Macquarie Island, its animals and plants, the incredible feat of successful eradication of pests, the dogs (and their handlers) that made this possible and a crash course of the causes and consequences of climate change. A southerly change heralded increasingly confused seas and conditions deteriorated into the afternoon. However the wind favoured the birds and those brave enough to tough out the conditions on deck were treated to great viewings of Campbell Albatross, Grey-headed Albatross and even a rare Blue Petrel.
21 November 2015
Sandy Bay and ship cruise along Macquarie Island
Strong cross winds and swell kept progress slow through the night and we arrived at Macquarie Island around 0730h ship time. We disembarked the Australian Antarctic Division members and picked up the Tasmania Parks Rangers in blustery, wet conditions and the decision was made to take a ship cruise along the east coast down to Lusitania Bay until conditions eased. The winds made for excellent birding, with white nellies wheeling around the bridge windows, prions working the swell, Black-browed and Grey-headed Albatross, Gentoo, Royal and King Penguins porpoising amongst others. We were even treated to several sightings of Orca pods as their fins broke the surface. Patience was the name of the game. Some stayed on deck with the birds while others watched a documentary on the Macquarie Island eradication, followed by an informative Q & A session with Head Ranger Paul and AAD scientist Alex Tureds, who informed us of the progress since the eradication was completed. Our patience was duly rewarded and we were able to make land around 1500h. Here we were given more or less free range of the bay to take in the splendour of our surroundings: tussock covered hills towering over us to the west, black volcanic sand beaches and the wildlife, oh the wildlife! King Penguins (adults and chicks), Royal Penguins and Southern Elephant Seals abounded. Overwhelming at first, many of us soon cottoned on to parking up in a choice spot and watching the animals pass on by, unperturbed by our presence. Ignoring the 5m rule, weaner Elephant Seal pups were keen to cuddle/search for milk, while curious Kings pecked at offensive gumboots. The Royal colony was a sight to behold with approximately 4,000 birds on nests with eggs. Despite the cold conditions, complete with snow flurries, many stayed right through to 20:00h, after which a hot shower and a hearty dinner were most welcome. Also welcome were the calmer conditions overnight as we remained anchored off Sandy Bay.
Photo credit: R.Sagar
Photo credit: R.Sagar
22 November 2015
Buckles Bay tour, Macquarie Island
A leisurely sleep-in was enjoyed by some, while others woke early to excellent views of GPs, Grey-headed and Black browed Albatross and a pod of Orca. Snow had fallen overnight to cover the tops and the island was picture perfect. Wind from the west had whipped up overnight, and following a rough recce trip in Zodiacs to drop off the ranger team the decision was made to sit tight at anchor off the bay as we waited for conditions to improve. Just after noon the wind had dropped a little and by 12:30h the first boats were ashore to be greeted by the waiting rangers and AAD staff we had just dropped off. Splitting into groups, we were guided around the base by the rangers, who gave us a run down on the workings of the base where the majority of work is based around atmospheric data collection, post-eradication monitoring and investigating the first casualties of climate change. Tour highlights included observing the savage decimation of an Elephant Seal pup carcass by territorial GPs, two Leopard Seals, views over the isthmus from a high point, Gentoo Penguins with chicks and delicious scones with jam and cream in the base mess. During the drive back to the ship we were able to cruise past a small Rockhopper Penguin colony. We enjoyed a late lunch as the anchor was lifted and we set sail for Campbell Island. A following sea made for considerably more comfortable conditions to the relief of all. Conditions on deck were quite comfortable and many whiled away the hours before dinner in the company of Blue and Soft-plumaged Petrels and all the usual suspects.
Photo credit: R.Sagar
Photo credit: R.Sagar
23 November 2015
At sea enroute to Campbell Island
A day at sea was a welcome opportunity for many to catch up on sleep and download photos. Shallower waters between Campbell Island and Macca made for steady birding, with especially good numbers of White-headed Petrel and Campbell and Grey-headed Albatross, including several juveniles. The day was punctuated by lectures in the bar/library. Rachael gave an overview of the breeding biology and foraging ecology of the Mottled Petrel and explained how far-ranging birds can be used to tell us about the conditions in the Southern Ocean. Sav held a ‘Bird ID clinic’ before lunch and helped people identify mystery birds they had photographed. After lunch the Sea Shop opened, with possum/merino gloves and magnets proving to be the popular items of the day. Just before dinner, many people came down to watch a documentary on the Campbell Island eradication – the first large scale eradication in the world, which was declared a success in 2004. A particularly large swell caught the audience off guard (although everyone made it through unscathed) and much of the audience finished the movie sitting on the floor. Conditions on deck continued to be favourable and we enjoyed the splendour through until bed time.
24 November 2015
Perseverance Harbour/ Col Lyall/ NW Bay Circuit, Campbell Island
We pulled into the sheltered waters of Perseverance Harbour around 01:00h, which allowed us several hours of peaceful sleep before waking for breakfast at 07:00h. Following breakfast we were briefed on the options for the day. The fit and enthusiastic could take a long walk on the NW Bay circuit track join the main group in a scenic Zodiac cruise in search of the teal and shag, followed by a walk up to Col Lyall. As usual, these activities were preceded by lunch making and cleaning gear for biosecurity purposes. The NW Bay team set off at 09:15h, while the Zodiac cruisers set off just after 10:00h. Not long after setting off both the teal and the shag were spotted at close range along the shore. The green sheen on the head of the teal was very obvious, possibly due to the fact that the breeding season is close at hand. After several passes on both the shag and teal we continued round the coast to land at Garden Cove, site of the ‘world’s loneliest tree’. It is the only true tree on Campbell Island and has an unusually high number of branches for a Sitka Spruce as for many years the Met Service team would cut the top off it for their Christmas tree. The weather began to deteriorate enroute, with heavy showers passing through and the wind building. Some made the trek to the tree, while others opted to view it from the Zodiac before making a hasty dash back to the warmth of the ship. The ride back was an adventure in itself as small water spouts indicated that the wind was gusting to at least 50kts at times and choppy swells meant staying dry was impossible. Cups of tea and coffee over lunch warmed us up and by 13:30h most had revived enough for the afternoon excursion up to Col Lyall. By that stage the showers had passed through and the sun shone through the clouds, though winds were gusting ever stronger. Ashore half the group opted to follow Martin straight up the board walk to Col Lyall to observe Southern Royals on the nest, while the rest stayed behind with Sav and Rachael to hunt for snipe around Beeman Base. Their patience paid off and eventually all those who wanted to had good views of a bird. Other highlights around the base included close observations of busy Pipits and large numbers of particularly resplendent Red Poll. Those who made the trek up to Col Lyall were treated with views of Southern Royal Albatross on the nest just off the board walk. These birds were likely to be males that had returned earlier to repair/renovate the nest before courting the females, which would arrive over the next few weeks. Gusts on the saddle blew people off their feet and it was impossible to even make it to the top of the board walk. However, many were happy to potter slowly back to the landing, botanising and birding along the way. Some even bumped into an albatross on the boardwalk – a rare opportunity to see one so close. Only then can you really appreciate the scale of these majestic birds. The last Zodiac departed the island at 18:00h and dinner was served in the quiet waters of the harbour before we pulled anchor at 19:00h. The birding was spectacular as we made our way around the harbour heads and the NE coast of Campbell, with scores of Cape Petrel, GPs, prions, gulls, terns and Grey-headed, Campbell and Southern Royal Albatross wheeling around the boat. It was a fitting end to a truly Subantarctic day.
Photo credit: R.Sagar
Photo credit: R.Sagar
Photo credit: R.Sagar
25 November 2015
Day at sea enroute to Antipodes Islands
After a big day on Campbell and bumpy seas overnight, a sleep-in and relaxed day at sea were just what we needed. Of course birding continued, with some notable sightings: the first of the Antipodean Albatross and several Wilson’s Storm Petrel, though sightings of the latter eluded some! In preparation for the Antipodes and Bounties islands copies of a book recounting their history Straight Through from London was distributed. Martin gave a lecture in the morning detailing the biology and demise of the Auckland Island Merganser. After lunch Rachael explored the causes of the decline of the Eastern Rockhopper Penguin on Campbell Island. As the day wore on both winds and seas dropped, offering a peaceful rest for most.
26 November 2015
Antipodes Island Zodiac cruise and foggy fun
The keen beans who rose with the sun were greeted by shrouds of fog and a mere 10m visibility, making for sparse and ghostly birding. Favourable seas overnight meant that our arrival at the Antipodes was earlier than expected and breakfast was brought forward to 07:00h. At 08:00h we burst through the fog wall into clear, sunny skies directly over the island and conditions for the Zodiac cruising were looking up! As there is no known anchorage at Ringdove Bay (which remains largely unsurveyed), the ship manoeuvred in close, allowing us to get all five Zodiacs in the water, then came round again so that we could load eager passengers. First stop was a small Erect-crested Penguin colony, complete with a rouge Rock-hopper for comparison. It was decided that the best explanation of their differences (aside from the bill) was that Erect-crested Penguins sported the punk look, while Rock-hoppers were just having a ‘bad hair day’. Continuing north along the sheltered coast of Ringdove Bay we ducked in and out of small coves, all eyes peeled on the tussocked areas for a flash of green in flight. It wasn’t long before the Reishek’s paraskeet was picked up at several locations. As we continued around the coast, Fulmar Prions kept us entertained, ducking and wheeling around the cliffs, tussocked slopes and water. One was even spotted chasing a parakeet! Keen eyes spotted nesting Light-mantled Sooty Albatross high on cliff faces and Antipodean Albatross glided high overhead. A real highlight was idling in the prion cave, as chattering prions streamed in and out of their nesting crevices above. A Subantarctic Fur Seal was spotted (his snub nose and blonde bib made the ID clear) and New Zealand Fur Seals and their doe-eyed pups were also scattered around the rocks. The glorious conditions made it easy to while away three hours, although it wasn’t until the last 10 minutes that really solid views of a mixed group of Reishek’s and Antipodean Parakeet were captured. Happy days! Back on board we lunched in the sheltered waters before pushing off north for the Bounties. A mere kilometre or two out from the island we plunged back into the fog wall, which stayed with us for more or less the rest of the day, though it was occasionally punctuated by clear spells. In one such break good views of Subantarctic Little Shearwaters were awarded to the patient. After lunch, Sav gave a lecture on the re-discovery of the New Zealand Storm Petrel, in which he played a large role. Later Nathan gave us an introduction to both the Antipodes and Bounties. All in all a very satisfying day!
Photo credit: G.Bodo
27 November 2015
Bounties Islands ship cruise and onwards to the Chathams
An early wakeup call at 05:45h heralded our arrival at the Bounties Islands and we leapt from our beds in anticipation of the spectacle. Sadly high winds from the NW and lumpy seas meant Zodiac cruising was impossible. However, the wildlife very obligingly came to us! Curious shags furiously pumped their wings to come alongside the ship, while flocks of Salvin’s Albatross ducked and wheeled around us for the rest of the day. Porpoising through the water were Erect-crested Penguins, while fur seals were spotted lolling around the base of the islands. It was a true riot of life in the middle of nowhere and a rare treat to behold.
After an hour and a half of cruising around the 13 islands, we set a course for the Chathams. Part one of a movie on the discovery of longitude was begun mid-morning and Rachael gave a lecture of the common traits and adaptations that make a seabird. The high winds were favourable for birding, with sightings increasing as the day wore on. Highlights included: Northern Royal Albatross, Grey-faced Petrel, Cook’s Petrel, White-faced Storm Petrels, Soft-plumaged Petrel, Mottled Petrel, White-headed Petrel, a possible Steineger’s Petrel (yet to be confirmed) and aerobatic flocks of Salvin’s Albatross that were along for the ride. Keen eyes were constantly scanning for the distinctive jizz of Pterodromas, but no such luck for the revered Taiko (Magenta petrel) and Chatham Petrel. However, given the number of new birds for many it was generally agreed to have been a very enjoyable and productive day. After catching the last of the light outside we gathered in the bar for a late reading of the bird list, which was followed by a flurry at the bar. However, many retired for an early night, aware that a big day of birding awaited them on the morrow.
Photo credit: R.Sagar
28 November 2015
Day at sea enroute to Chathams + Mangere Islands cruise + Horns cruise
The winds and seas calmed overnight which was good news for our comfort levels but bad news for birding as the fog and rain reclaimed our views. However, conditions didn’t hamper spirits with the potential promise of Taiko (Magenta Petrel) and Chatham Petrel in the air. In spite of the fog there was plenty to keep us occupied: Grey-faced Petrel, Gibson’s and Antipodean Albatross and Subantarctic Little Shearwater. A real treat at close range were two killer whales, one playing with her prey of a small shark and showing off by rolling onto her back several times.
To keep us entertained while the weather was poor Martin gave a history of the European discovery of the Auckland Islands, some watched a documentary on the epic recovery of the Black Robin and Nathan gave us an overview of the history of the Professor Krohmov (AKA Spirit of Enderby) and what it takes to keep her running smoothly.
Given the smooth conditions we made good time to the Chathams and had time up our sleeve, so we cruised past the Mangere Islands, which really highlighted the marginal conditions under which the Black Robin clung to life. From there we made for ‘the Horns’ at the SW corner of the main island so we could cruise Taiko territory after an early dinner. Unfortunately the fog and rain stuck with us, limiting our visibility to 100m as a number of hardy souls stuck it out on deck until dark. Despite our best efforts, including laying a fish oil slick, there was no luck for the masses and all we could do was hope for another day. We retreated to the sheltered waters of Port Hut to escape the northerly winds overnight.
Photo credit: R.Sagar
29 November 2015
Awatotora Reserve/ Sweetwater, Chatham Island + Horns cruise
The day dawned bright, still and clear, even hot (well, relatively speaking)! As we eagerly loaded into the Zodiacs to head ashore, a small pod of Bottle Nosed Dolphins treated us to a show of acrobatics. Landing on the golden sands of Port Hut we were greeted by a Chatham Oystercaster. With everybody ashore we piled into the local school bus for a ride down the island to the privately owned Awatotora Reserve, spying Buff Weka, Masked Lapwing and Swamp Harrier along the way. Our bus driver Danny gave us an introduction to the island along the way (population approx. 600, approx. 50 children at the primary school, they had had a very cold winter but were now in drought, approx. 40 tourists per week in high season etc).
We were met at Awatotora by Bruce and Liz Tanui, who gave us an introduction to the reserve, followed by Dave Bell who spoke about the status of Taiko and the Sweetwater Reserve. Dave reported that there are no Chatham Petrel currently in the area and that sightings of non-breeding birds were low at the moment. A small group went with Dave into Sweetwater to observe Taiko in the burrow, while others stayed behind to bird and explore the Awatotora. Along the road and the first bushy section of the track we picked up the endemic Pigeon, Warbler and Tui, as well as the Fantail and Red-crowned Parakeet. Tomtit were also heard along the way, which Dave and Bruce were keen to follow up on. Some chose to stretch their legs and walk the couple of kilometres down to the beach where they spotted Pipits taking a bath and several resplendent Chatham Island Forget-me-nots in bloom.
After a short ride back to where the ship had repositioned off Waitangi, we had time to stop in town. Being Sunday the shops (and even the pub!) were closed, but we enjoyed closer views of the Oystercatcher on the beach front. Following a late lunch back aboard the ship we lifted anchor to make for ‘the Horns’ and another try for Taiko. Conditions continued in our favour, with light winds and excellent visibility. People were strategically positioned so that we had 360° surveillance and once again we laid a fish oil slick as we lapped the Horns eight times. Good numbers of Sooty Shearwaters streamed across the horizon, while Buller’s Albatross, Giant Petrels, Royal Albatross, Cape Petrels and even a Chatham Albatross came in to check us out. Sadly the only Pterodroma spotted was a Grey-faced Petrel and as the light faded so did our hopes. Alas, despite our best efforts it wasn’t to be this time. We retreated inside to a lovely dinner (as always, thanks boys!) while the ship continued south east to anchor off Pitt Island for the night.
30 November 2015
Rangatira (SE Island cruise) + at sea enroute to Dunedin, cruising along the Chatham Rise
Once again we woke to a stunning sunny day and after an early breakfast we all headed out on the Zodiacs to cruise around Rangatira, also known as South East Island. A small Pitt Shag colony was the first stop, with a good mix of adults and juveniles on show. Round the corner we picked up Red-crowned Parakeet, Pipit, Tui and Territorial Brown Skua. It wasn’t long before the Shore Plover made their appearance, pattering around on the algal beds in the tidal zone. Often seen in pairs, they took great offence to others encroaching on their territory and there were several shows of aggressive flight. Further around we idled in a small bay close to a patch of bush where Black Robin were heard. The waters were crystal clear and we were also able to observe the variety of kelp and seaweed below, along with Wrasse, Blue Cod, schools of larval fish and coloured jellyfish. Sunning themselves on the rocks was a large crèche of New Zealand Fur Seals pups. A Blue Penguin, completely unperturbed by our presence, happily swam close around us fishing as he went. His wet plumage really showed off the iridescent aquamarine flecks in his feathers. We finished the cruise by visiting a White-fronted Tern colony, where the birds were nesting in the rock pockets of a cliff face. A couple of fat, fluffy chicks were spotted demanding food from harassed looking parents.
Lifting anchor, we made for the Pyramid – a volcanic rock stack that is the sole home of 5,000 pairs of Chatham Albatross. It truly was a sight to behold, with thousands of birds swarming the air around it and nests on the steep sides. Bright pink patches of flowering snow plants cascaded down the sides and we marvelled at the thought of researchers camping on such an exposed outcrop. After making a lap around it we indulged in some chumming, using the frames and guts of the blue cod the Russian crew had caught that morning. Six species of albatross (Chatham, Buller’s, White-capped, Salvin’s, Northern Royal and Southern Royal) squabbled over the spoils and some curious fur seals cruised in for a look.
Glassy seas after lunch made for the best marine mammal viewing of the trip and we managed to spot six species of cetaceans: Dusky Dolphins, a mixed group of Long-fin Pilot Whales, Killer Whales and Right Whale Dolphins, a lone Sperm Whale and finally a mixed group of Long-finned Pilot Whales and Oceanic Bottle-nosed Dolphins. It just goes to show that marine mammals are out there the whole time, but the sea conditions determine whether we are able to spot them or not. A spectacular sunset heralded the end of another fantastic day and we enjoyed easy sleep brought on by the calm conditions.
Photo credit: G.Bodo
Photo credit: Heritage Expeditions
1 December 2015
At sea enroute to Dunedin, cruising along the Chatham Rise
We woke to another glorious day and smooth seas, although the white caps were just enough to make spotting marine mammals difficult. The Sea Shop was opened for a second time, with books and socks proving to be the hot items of the day. Martin gave a fascinating lecture on the interaction between humans and marine mammals and the attitudes of humans to them, with question and discussion time running as long as the lecture itself! Much food for thought. Birding was relatively quiet today as we passed over deep water with low winds. Just the usual suspects, but given the prime conditions most people enjoyed spending ample time on deck. In the afternoon Sav gave a lecture on the birding highlights available on the ‘Western Pacific Odyssey’ voyage as thoughts turned to the next adventure.
2 December 2015
Day at sea enroute to Dunedin
Our final day at sea was enjoyed under sunny skies and upon calm seas as we downloaded photos and began to pack for disembarkation in Dunedin. Few birds and whales were about but we were unable to catch even a glimpse of the Hutton’s Shearwater. Nathan gave a presentation outlining Heritage’s Melanesian and Russian programmes to whet the appetite for more exotic climes before delivering the disembarkation briefing. The traditional end of voyage slideshow brought back vivid memories of our wonderful time together as we made good headway towards the Port of Otago. After a delicious buffet dinner it was standing room only in the bar as new friends toasted a successful expedition and discussed another escapade in the pursuit of feathered and furry friends.
3 December 2015
Disembark at Dunedin
We came alongside in Dunedin soon after daylight and not long after breakfast everyone was ashore and waving farewell to the crew and expedition team. It had been an eventful few weeks and no doubt many were already quietly contemplating a return to these wildly windswept and challenging islands which team with life amid the tempestuous Southern Ocean.
