17 Nov 2018

Wildlife Encounters on Macquarie Island

Images (c) R Iveson-Brown

We awoke to a wild Macca morning, but armed with the knowledge the conditions were forecast to improve we had high hopes for the day - and Day 7 on Birding Down Under did not disappoint! As we made contact with the Rangers at Macquarie Island Station by VHF, a pod of Orca cruised down the starboard side of Spirit of Enderby to the delight of the packed bridge.

By mid-morning conditions had improved so we headed off for a tour of the station and surrounds. As we were strolling around the isthmus numerous Gentoo Penguins and Elephant Seals watched with interest while Macquarie Island Shags flew overhead with beaks full of nesting materials and Giant Petrels (some still with blood-stained heads from their last meal) kept an opportunistic eye out their next meal. After a cuppa and a scone in the Station Mess, it was time to don lifejackets and head back to our trusty vessel for lunch.

As guests enjoyed lunch, we moved Spirit of Enderby down to Sandy Bay where, as if on cue, the clouds parted and we were greeted with sunshine setting the scene for a spectacular afternoon. Sandy Bay is one of those special places in the world and, when bathed in sunshine, creates an idyllic setting. Rafts of Royal and King Penguins came and went from the shore and cameras were in overdrive as we spent four blissful hours among the wildlife. As the Elephant Seal weaners started to wakeup from their hard day sleeping and work their way into the shallows for a swim, we bid adieu to a landing that we stay with us all for a lifetime.

While conditions the next day returned to what is considered 'normal' in these parts (wind gusts over 50 knots and snow!) we watched from the comfort of the ship, as close as permits and safety allow,  for views of the largest King Penguin colony on the island at Lusitania Bay. The census in August this year had 43,000 chicks born at this colony, and it was standing room only ashore as we cruised by. We had also had a quick look at the Hurd Point Royal Penguin colony (also the largest on the island) and, as Wandering Albatross circled above, we turned north making our way towards Campbell Island.