08 Aug 2017

SOE: Hundreds of Belugas Welcome Us

From 11 nations we gathered, half flying in from Nome to the east, half from Moscow to the west. Alexander greeted us at Anadyr airport, shepherding us through visa checks, as we gathered our bags and boarded local transport to where Spirit of Enderby was moored on the banks of the Anadyr River. We passed by ground squirrels near the gangway to be warmly-welcomed aboard by expedition staff. After settling into our cabins, we set off to explore our home for the next two weeks. Fresh scones and hot tea beckoned from the bar, but even these delights were upstaged by the larga seal and beluga whale show just off the port side.

At first the close sightings of the buttery-white female belugas and their grey calves took our breath away. But as they rose and blew, surrounded by sleek-headed seals, it gradually became apparent just what we were looking at. Grisha and Sarah, our naturalists, estimated some 100 whales were close to the ship, but as the eye was drawn further and further out, an estimated 800 to 900 whales peppered the surface of the river and bay. Not to be outdone, hundreds of seals took turns rising to show off the salmon they were busy catching and consuming, while a handful of ringed seals made guest appearances.

 Arctic terns, glaucous and vega gulls, black-legged kittiwakes, long-tailed jaegers and red-throated loons were just some of birds that flew by. A about 1600, a light rain squall swept through as our pilot boat arrived to guide us off the wharf and on our way. Down in the lecture room, we met our expedition staff and Helen introduced us to life on board an ice-strengthened ship. By dinner time, there was a sense of calm as we all relaxed into our new life. And so our Across the Top expedition begins.