30 Aug 2017

SOE: A Fond Farewell to Wrangel Island

Doubtful Bay turned it on for us this second time around. As we anchored, sunlight reflected off a glassy sea surface, while up ahead, clouds released mists of snow that powdeedr the slopes of surrounding mountains and the upper reaches of tundra. Conditions were perfect for the long run up the bay to Pavlov’s Grave, a memorial to the son of Ushekov, the man who first settled Wrangel.

Pavlov spent his life living in Chukchi style as a trapper, and the remains of his hut (and traps) could still be seen. Nearby was an orthodox memorial cross and an upturned boat. Also awaiting us on the beach were our southbound overlanders, who were on their final excursion in the Trekol, heading out to the end of the long, wraparound spit that protects the eastern reaches of Doubtful Bay.

After a short visit, we boarded Zodiacs once again for a run back to the ranger’s huts, where Gennady, Artem and Juliana showed us their base via short, medium and long walks respectively. For a few fascinating hours we were given a glimpse of life on Wrangel Island, from how the banya works to sleeping accommodation, the project to clean up half a century of rusty drums, the wooden crates to ship small musk oxen calves to the mainland as a breeding program, the open air ‘museum’ featuring not just skulls (and tusks) of the contemporary animals, but the tusks of woolly mammoths as well.

Out on the tundra, between the rangers’ huts and the abandoned military base further inland, there were arctic foxes (and even rarer this year – lemmings) to be seen, snowy owls to be stalked, and snow buntings to be photographed. It seemed that every arrived back at the beach (overlanders included) with a story to tell and a greater understanding about life on this World Heritage Island.

Back on board, we bid goodbye to Wrangel and steered a course southeast for the village of Vankarem. Late in the afternoon, we gathered in the bar for a recap, with many expeditioners sharing their favourite experiences of the trip so far. Sometimes it’s only at times of reflection like this that we realise just how much we’ve seen and felt since departing Anadyr.