21 Feb 2016

Shackleton & Scott Memories

A general wake up at 0415hrs summoned everyone on deck to catch the pinks, yellows and light blues in the sky as the sun rose from behind Mt Erebus. The ship moved silently through a calm black sea with white pancake ice all around as pyjama clad, we took the fresh morning air. During breakfast we made our way towards Cape Royds for our first ice landing and a walk up over the eerie volcanic landscape to reveal Shackleton’s hut, nestled in the snow and guarded by Adelie sentinels. As we stood inside the hut it was as if the men were still with us. You could almost hear them washing dishes and the beds creaking as they turned in their sleep. You imagined the warmth of the stove and the smells of dinner on the table. It meant different things to different people on this expedition but it was simply exhilarating for every one of us to finally be here. It was the same for Shackleton and his men. Just like him, we shut the door and headed out for more adventures.

We had our first sighting of an Emperor Penguin sitting on an ice flow as we sailed the short distance to Cape Evans and our first Orcas, but the hut on the beach had all our attention. Scott has captured the heart of many people in the world and a high percentage are on-board this ship. Not a lot was said in the Zodiacs as we headed ashore. The weather was perfect, but all were absorbed in their own emotions. Finally in the hut it all came together. For some it was too much, for others it was a special photo opportunity. We spoke in soft voices in this space. Grand deeds were borne right here. We stood beside Scott’s bunk that was his last, the table where plans were made and the stables that housed the ponies. Outside were the dog chains and parts from the car. We asked why the ponies and car when dogs could go so far and why five men at the last, when four could go so fast? This is a special place for so many reasons. Five men did not return. Was it bad luck or bad planning? This group of expeditioners aboard the Spirit of Enderby are truly engaged in the whole story, not just the legend. The legend is just the beginning of a story and for some the facts hurt. We said goodbye to the seven Emperor Penguins on Cape Evans and shut the door of the hut for the last time. The sea was now refreezing fast. Pancakes were everywhere and the wind picked up to 35kts as we approached McMurdo Sound. In 45 minutes the temperature dropped 10 degrees to -20 and we made 77degrees 52 minutes south. Then a snow storm came in so we headed out into the night.