11 Jul 2019

Exploring Belyaka Spit & Circumnavigation of Kolyuchin Island

Early morning rumbles could be heard as Kapitan Khlebnikov broke through ice sheets and crossed into the Arctic Circle. Around 6:30am, a pod of 15 Bowhead whales were discovered just off the bow; guests gathered in the bridge and on deck to watch and photograph these rare whales cresting and weaving their way around the sea ice.

Typically, only one or two Bowhead whales might be seen on a trip, so this was a particularly spectacular encounter. These graceful mammals have impressive lifespans, living up to 275 years or more.

On Belyaka Spit in the Kolyuchin Inlet we were greeted by resident ranger Alexi, who spends a solitary four months here each year to administer the area. Expeditioners joined one of three groups depending on their interests for guided walks focusing on botany, natural history and birding. Alexi joined the birdwatchers group with his rifle in one hand and a cigarette in the other, along with Heritage Expeditions' guide and ornithologist Christoph with his spotting scope. A warm summer sun illuminated the bright green marsh grass and spongy bogs, and tiny wildflowers dotted the tundra. A wader was spotted in the distance, and a lone Common Eider swam in a nearby pond. Christoph called our attention to a delicate Polar Fritillary butterfly - the only butterfly to journey this far north. We watched a White-billed Diver and Ringer Plover for a while; a Snow Bunting fluttered past and a group of King Eiders flew overhead.

Our afternoon kicked off with a presentation on the wildlife of Wrangel Island, followed by a circumnavigation by Zodiac of Kolyuchin Island. The south-facing rocky cliffs of Kolyuchin were a flutter with Brunnich's Guillemots, Kittewakes and Horned and Tufted Puffin set to the raucous soundtrack of bird calls resounding from all directions. A small White-tail Wag was discovered near the Zodiac and a family of Ravens could be seen perched high above waiting for an opportunity to lunch. In the distance, we could see some human activity on the sea ice as three men grappled with something near their small boat. 

Image (c) D.Brown

Image (c) A.Tockston