24 Oct 2018

Discovering the archipelagos of Duff Islands and Vanikoro

Greeted by the sight of the isolated Duff Islands rising from the vastness of the Pacific Ocean on Day 7 of Heritage Expeditions' Secrets of Melanesia voyage, we spent the morning occupying ourselves snorkelling the crystal clear waters and combing the beautiful beach at a large bay away from the hustle and bustle of the main village. Later in the afternoon we made our way through the reef, beyond the carefully constructed man-made islands to Ngauta, where almost the entire population of Taumako had gathered to welcome us ashore and share their wonderful culture. The Polynesian roots of the island evident the moment you hear the children count "Tahi, Rua, Toru, Wha" while dancing to the rhythmic beat of the drums. For many it seemed like we had discovered the quintessential tropical paradise, but the effects of rising sea levels and the erosion it is causing was evident along the shoreline, which has retreated several metres in just the last year. 

Our third and final stop in Temotu province the following day was the mythical shores of Vanikoro. It is here French Explorer Jean-François de Galaup, Comte de La Pérouse and his expedition famously disappeared during a cyclone and, ever since, Vanikoro has occupied a unique position in the folklore of the Pacific. This morning its high peaks were clear of cloud giving a grandstand view. First ashore, shortly after dawn, were the birders and, not that long afterwards, the rest of us followed to explore. Also during the morning we managed to find time to get in the water at what must be one of the best snorkel sites of the voyage, the reef runs along before forming a precipitous wall that we could float above and watch for the fish and corals below. During the afternoon we took the zodiacs deeper into the harbour exploring the mangroves, paid our respects to La Pérouse at his monument and were welcomed by the community at Buma.

We sailed away from Vanikoro, Temotu and the Solomon Islands much wiser and richer in experiences, but somewhat tired following the days' adventures.

(c) Heritage Expeditions