26 Jan 2020

Cruising the Ross Ice Shelf with Killer Whales

Waking to -5˚C and 38-knot katabatic winds the outline of the fog-cloaked Ross Ice Shelf (or the ‘Barrier' as it was known by explorers of the heroic age) was just visible on our approach.

The wilder weather a reminder of not only how fortunate we have been on this expedition, but also of the raw power of Antarctica and those who braved this unforgiving vastness before us. As the fog dissipated, one of Mother Nature's natural wonders appeared with many swapping the comfort of Akademik Shokalskiy's bridge for the -15˚C wind chill out on deck for a closer look.

Staring up at the giant white wall and along its endless expanse, the air shimmering with ice crystals lightly prickling your face where they land, you quickly realise no camera will ever capture this experience, lower your lens and take in the moment.

The call of "Killer Whales" over the PA rouses expeditioners from the shelf's hypnotic trance and we spend the next hour observing the fascinating behavioural traits of dozens of pods of Type C Orca (including females with calves) patrol the ice edge. On the hunt for toothfish, they slap their tails on the water and dive below our ship, their unmistakable white markings visible below the surface as terrified penguins leap through the white-capped water and scrabble up floes.

Steaming north we drop anchor after dinner at Franklin Island and set off in Zodiacs to explore our third Adelie Penguin colony. It's impossible to tire of observing these feisty birds in their thousands as they raise chicks, squabble, steal stones from neighbours' nests and chase off ever-present skua while Weddell Seals nap oblivious to the non-stop action surrounding them. Just before we leave golden sunlight bathes the island and its inhabitants, inducing a flurry of camera activity.

Image from file © D.Brown, Heritage Expeditions