24 Aug 2017

SOE: Warm Welcome at Lavrentiya

As a north wind and swell picked up, we followed in the wake of great explorers like Timothy Perevalov, James Cook, Sarychev and Billings and made our way across Lavrentiya Bay to visit the Chukchi Region’s administrative centre of Lavrentiya. Once on shore, Tania led us to a small plaza dominated by a tall, monkey-like stone sculpture, and a circle of painted timbers. The sculpture, Tania explained, is a mythical figure, shared by cultures on both sides of the Bering Strait, and called “Belikan” in the east, and “Pelikan” in Chukotka. Pelikan celebrates what is good in people and is said to have special powers. If you rub its round belly and make a wish, it might just be granted. Nearby is a circle of painted timbers, a Chukchi calendar, one plank per month, each one conceived and produced by a children’s group run by local artist, Valerie. To honour the importance of reindeer to Chukchi life, each month focusses on an aspect of the animal’ s breeding cycle.

Just beyond Lenin’s bust, we split into two groups, one setting off for the museum, the other enjoying a feast of local foods prepared by the villagers. Grey-whale steak, pickled blubber, whale sausage, dried salmon, donut-like fried bread with a berry syrup, and a rainbow of tundra berries, from crow, blue, cloud and more. No was shy about filling their plates, much to the delight of the locals. Nearby in the local hall, artist Sasha displayed some of his lovely work, from landscapes to street and harbour scenes.

In the museum, Elizaveta, who grew up in the now abandoned village of Naukan on Cape Dezhnev, gave a fascinating account of Chukchi culture (well-translated by Tania), from the importance of reindeer, walrus and whales, to the practical aspects of life in such an extreme environment. One of the many highlights was the ultra-lightweight, waterproof anorak made from the skin of walrus intestines, and the light kayaks that were once paddled across Bering Strait in storm conditions.

We finished our visit with a lovely performance of Chukchi song and dance in the school hall, courtesy of the local dance group, White Sail. The dancers ranged in age from about two to elderly, but the standard was consistently delightful. The performance finished with Free Dance, when the locals invited us visitors up on stage to dance. What a great morning.

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