25 Aug 2017

SOE: Our First Polar Bear

Expect the unexpected on an expedition cruise. This morning dawned perfectly clear, with a northeasterly breeze and swell at odds with the forecast southerly change. As we approached the eastern coast of Kolyuchin Island after breakfast, the brilliant clarity of the day made it easy to see (and photograph) the massive walrus haulouts tucked beneath the soaring cliffs. Even from a distance, the mass of pink-skin and criss-cross of long tusks was a memorable sight. As were the clouds of kittiwakes, guillemots, murres and gulls that heralded the seabird cliffs on the island’s north coast. And there! Right there in the very first gully, just above the water’s edge, was our first polar bear, no doubt searching for eggs and chicks that might have fallen from the cliffs above. As it nonchalantly began climbing up the gully, we continued on.
As conditions looked as if a landing might be possible, we gathered in the lecture room where Chris held a briefing. But by the time we’d rounded the northwest point of Kolyuchin Island and prepared to drop anchor, Howard came on the P.A. to announce: “There’s a polar bear at the landing site” which sent most of us racing for cameras, and our expedition staff recalibrating our morning.
Soon we were in Zodiacs preparing for a cruise toward the polar bear. Clearly it was eating something, and from the blood stains on the rock around it, it was something large. But it will remain a mystery. Even before we could get close, the bear had finished its breakfast and was ambling along the rocky shoreline. It stayed just long enough for us to get photos, before slipping into the sea. That was our signal to land. It was amazing to discover that aside from the blood-stained rocks, there was absolutely nothing to indicate what the bear had just eaten.
After a short hike up the slopes to the plateau above, we found ourselves stepping back in time as we wandered amongst meteorological station buildings and further out on the point, the remains of an ancient Chukchi hunting camp. But for most of us, our goal was the noisy cliff-line to the north, the very cliffs we’d seen from the ship earlier in the morning. From the top, we were afforded exceptional views of horned puffins, kittiwakes and chicks, murres and glaucous gulls. There we spent a delightful time as morning turned to afternoon and it was time to return to the ship for another Ed and Connor feast.
Helen opened the ship shop after lunch for a quick jolt of retail therapy (including some very nice souvenirs and clothing). We then gathered in the lecture room for Liya’s introduction to Wrangel Island and shortly after, perfectly-timed, came Sarah’s announcement that there were ‘at least a dozen’ whales around the ship. Chief Mate immediately slowed the ship down and did a big turn. How fortunate that he did, for amongst the humpbacks we so admire, was our first bowhead whale, with another two seen spouting strongly in the distance. At the risk of sounding repetitious – what a magical day!