17 Aug 2017

SOE: Loons at Belyake Spit

Our overnight run south from Wrangel Island continued to be kind, with the wind and seas pushing us nicely along. It wasn’t until we passed near Kolyuchin Island to the east that we realised how lucky we were on our way north, when we had just enough lee to make a landing. Today there was no hope, as the swell crashed into the western point, sending plumes of spray higher than the grassy slopes where we had been sitting in sunshine photographing horned puffins and kittiwake chicks.

After breakfast, we reached the north coast of Chukotka, and Captain took our ship into Kolyuchin Inlet, where we anchored for our planned landing on Belyake Spit. The gangway was lively once again, but after our Wrangel adventures, everyone moved with a lighter step of experience and we were soon landing near the towering cross, a memorial to those who died on the Vaygatch, during the first Russian traverse of the Northeast Passage. We were greeted on the beach by Alexei Doudua, a very keen Russian ornithologist who spends several months each year living in a small hut near the lighthouse. He was excited to hear that we had Ranger Igor on board, a longtime friend and colleague from Wrangel Island days. It was a delight to see them reunited when Igor came ashore.

Belyake Spit might better be called Belyake Sponge, because at an average elevation of between one and two metres, and a high water table, it’s absolutely riddled with ponds, lakes and lagoons. Fortunately paleodune systems allow some access across the Spit, giving us the chance to enjoy the perfect habitat for shorebirds. In the middle of our first lake, half a dozen Emperor Loons swam back and forth, showing off their patterned plumage. Occasionally other loons flew overhead, filling the air with their distinctive call. We watched arctic skuas chase gulls, and small flocks of golden plovers landing in the grass just long enough for some of us to get photos of their art deco plumage. There were sneaky views of dunlin raising their heads, and red-necked phalaropes spinning to and fro on the ponds, creating vortices to stir up food.

As we walked, Sarah explained why these wetland areas are so important for the loons, who are so perfectly adapted to deep-diving, their legs have moved so far back that they are no longer capable of walking on land. They must build their nests either on floating islands of vegetation, or along the shores of bodies of lakes and ponds and use the waterways to give them take-off and landing access to their nests.  As we walked, we passed the occasional Chukchi burial, and higher dunes that possibly were the sites of ancient summer hunting camps. It’s amazing how such a featureless track of coast could contain so much life and history.

In the afternoon, we continued our journey east and slightly south. Helen had a busy time assisting those who came to our ‘pop-up’ ship shop in the portside dining room, then later in the afternoon, Chris gave a talk on the edible plants of Chukotka, a fascinating insight into the richness of the indigenous diet, showing that it was not purely made up of protein rich meats and oil from marine mammals. Chris, assisted somewhat by Tania, delivered a lively, very funny talk. Then just before dinner, Steffan shared the story of a winter snowmobile expedition he did into the interior of Chukotka to visit reindeer herders. Amazing presentation of both slides and video.