26 Oct 2017

Exploring The Most Remote Solomon Islands

DAY 6: DUFF ISLANDS

Today we arrived at the Duff Islands, a cluster of small islands clinging to the edge of the vast Pacific Ocean. Again, as is true of expedition cruising, flexibility is the key. We had to wait on board for the right tides and timing as we could only get the Zodiacs close the island on a rising or high tide.
Dan, one of our naturalists gave a presentation on the birds and mammals still being discovered in this part of the world, including the Vanikoro Flying Fox, considered extinct until being sighted by passengers on board Spirit of Enderby on a previous voyage.

After lunch we received the all-clear from Nathan, and boarded the Zodiacs for a 45 minute cruise to shore. Our destination was the island of Taumako, the only inhabited island in the Duff Islands group, where the people live on hand crafted artificial islands of coral stone. It was a delicate operation, which saw us having to jump off and help navigate the boats through shallow water so we did not get caught on the reef below.

For our patience, we were rewarded with another warm welcome by the people of Taumako, and a series of spectacular dances and speeches. The diversity of these islands is remarkable. Although we have seen a number of villages and dances now, no two are alike.  We gained a deeper understanding of these people who live in one of the remotest parts of the world. We were the first foreign visitors they had seen in 12 months, and would be the last for another year, until Heritage Expeditions returns again. For some, we would have been the first foreigners the people of the village had ever seen.

Our birding party were rewarded with sightings of Palm Lorikeets, a bird difficult to see anywhere else in the world; as well as a number of Cardinal Myzomelas, source of the intriguing red-feather money.

We visited another of the tiny islands where a traditional Tepuke, or sailing boat was being constructed, and marvelled at its craftsmanship. Two of our passengers, John Kearney and Stephen Weinstein, were presented with a special gift – a miniature model of a Tepuke, in gratitude for their work to get the project running and for John performing cataract surgery on the village chief, Moses, on a previous visit.

After dinner, Chris Bailey, one of the passengers on board gave a fascinating talk on ancient Polynesian navigation by the stars. It was a spectacular day, with memories that will be etched in our minds forever.

Written by Kris Madden