28 Mar 2024

Deep in the heart of Noumea – Birding in ancient forest

At 0300 the birders woke up to their alarms. Yes, a 0300 start. “Committed to birding” one would say, but it seemed to border on crazy. Quiet, but on time everyone was on the bus at 0400 and departing into the darkness leaving our warm bed behind on Heritage Adventurer.

We arrived at Parc Provincial de la Rivière Bleue at dawn, where we caught a second bus which carried us deeper into the forest. We all had our hearts set on seeing the Kagu, and no one was disappointed. Several birds appeared to greet us, and this wonderful Kagu appeared like a ghost and returned to the forest in silence once it had made the most of the disturbed leaf litter. This flightless bird is the only member of its family to exist, classifying it as a Mega for most birders.

We observed for several hours, ticking birds off our list and enjoying great views of Robins, Cloven-feathered Doves and more. Our final hour on the reserve was spent tracking down the only bird that none of us had seen, the Crow Honeyeater. In the final few minutes, a call went out to say it had been seen and was feeding in a section of forest that had some of the biggest trees in the region. These Kauri trees are the oldest and largest in New Caledonia, estimated to be 1000 years old and 40 metres tall. The Crow was observed by almost everyone but stayed high in the canopy for most of the time before delighting everyone with an eye-level view as it dropped to the forest floor to investigate the many eyes fixated on its every move.

Those not birding enjoyed a leisurely sleep-in before another day of exploration in the vibrant city of Noumea. Our destination was the Tjibaou Cultural Centre, named after Jean-Marie Tjibaou, an assassinated leader of the Kanak independence movement.

Our local guide, Georges, led us through the Tjibaou Cultural Centre with ease and familiarity, as he had worked here since its opening in 1998. We walked through exhibitions of traditional arts and carvings, to modern exhibits discussing this important political period. Outside, we learnt about traditional plants and their usages and their places in Kanak mythology. Our explorations saw us arrive at the traditional Kanak buildings, which amazed with their ingenuity and relationships to the natural world. The afternoon was spent exploring Noumea at our own pace, indulging in delicious pastries and exploring the local maritime museum.
 
Everyone reunited on board Heritage Adventurer for dinner, before heading to bed early after another exciting day of adventure in New Caledonia.