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Subantarctic Islands Voyages

Macquarie Island Expedition: Galapagos of the Southern Ocean 1 Dec 2019

This is without doubt one of the most inspirational and informative journeys or expeditions into the Southern Ocean ecosystem that one can make anywhere in the world. Long recognised for their rich biodiversity, the Subantarctic Islands lying to the south of New Zealand are UNESCO World Heritage sites. This places them in a select group of only 180 natural sites that have been designated as ‘the most important and significant natural habitats' on the planet. They are also afforded the highest conservation status and protection by the Australian and New Zealand governments and access to these islands is by permit only. On this expedition we offer you the unique chance to explore, photograph and understand these wonderful places in the company of some of the most knowledgeable and passionate guides.

As a young biologist, Heritage Expeditions founder Rodney Russ first visited these islands in 1972 with the New Zealand Wildlife Service. He organised New Zealand's first commercial expedition there in 1989, and many years and over 100 expeditions later, he is still as passionate about the islands as he was in 1972. It was only natural that his family should travel with him, what wasn't predictable was that they would join him in the business and be as passionate about the conservation of this region as he is. As the original concessionaire we enjoy good relationships with the conservation departments and some of the access permits we hold are unique to these expeditions.

The name we have given to this voyage ‘Galapagos of the Southern Ocean' reflects the astounding natural biodiversity and the importance of these islands as a wildlife refuge. (The book ‘Galapagos of the Antarctic' written by Rodney Russ and Aleks Terauds and published by Heritage Expeditions describes all of these islands in great detail.) The islands all lie in the cool temperate zone with a unique climate and are home to a vast array of wildlife including albatross, penguins, petrels, prions, shearwaters and marine mammals like sea lions, fur seals and elephant seals. The flora is equally fascinating; the majority of it being like the birds and endemic to these islands.

This expedition includes four of the Subantarctic Islands, The Snares, Auckland, Macquarie and Campbell. Each one is different and each one is unique, just like this expedition.

Departures

Macquarie Island Expedition: Galapagos of the Southern Ocean 1 Dec 2019
Voyage #: SOE1963

01 December, 2019 to 13 December, 2019

Main Deck Triple $7000.00 USD pp Waitlisted

Main Deck $8300.00 USD pp Waitlisted

Superior $8700.00 USD pp Waitlisted

Superior Plus $9250.00 USD pp Waitlisted

Mini Suite $9750.00 USD pp Waitlisted

Heritage Suite $10400.00 USD pp Waitlisted

Additional charges:

Landing Fees (All prices are per person in USD) $800.00 USD pp

This trip includes:

Pre/Post cruise transfers, one night hotel accommodation in a twin share room (incl. dinner/breakfast), all on board ship accommodation with meals and all expedition shore excursions.

This trip does not include:

All items of a personal nature, laundry, drinks, gratuities. International/domestic flights, visas and travel insurance.

Macquarie Island Expedition: Galapagos of the Southern Ocean 1 Dec 2019 itinerary:

Day 1: Dunedin

Meet your fellow voyagers and expedition staff for an informal get-together over dinner at the hotel, where you will stay overnight.

Day 2: Otago Harbour

We transfer you to the port where staff will welcome you on board the Spirit of Enderby and as you settle into your cabin, our adventure begins.

Day 3: The Snares – North East Island

North East Island is the largest of The Snares and staggeringly, this one island is claimed by some to be home to more nesting seabirds than all of the British Isles together. Zodiac cruising the rugged coastline we learn how the islands got their name and encounter Snares Crested Penguins, Cape Petrel and Buller’s Albatross on the imposing cliffs. We are also likely to encounter Antarctic Terns, White-fronted Terns, Red-billed Gulls, Tomtits and Fernbirds.

Day 4: Auckland Islands – Enderby Island

Named for the same distinguished shipping family as our own vessel and one of the most beautiful islands in the group, this is a great birding location and a chance to see everything from the famous Southern Royal Albatross and Northern Giant Petrel to parakeets, Bellbirds and the endemic shag, teal and snipe. Sandy Bay is one of three breeding grounds on the Auckland Islands for the rare Hooker’s or New Zealand Sea Lion.

Day 5: Auckland Islands – Carnley Harbour

These islands have witnessed many a shipwreck in days gone by. Loaded in human history, they harbour tales of castaways, bullion and coastwatchers through to today’s scientific visitors. Today we land in Carnley Harbour and if weather and sea conditions permit visit the Shy Mollymawk colony at South West Cape or if weather is not suitable we will select one of a number of other sites available to us.

Day 6: At Sea

As we make our way through an area known as the Furious Fifties in the tumultuous Southern Ocean, we will learn more about the flora and fauna as we prepare for our arrival at Macquarie Island. En route there are great birding opportunities which may include the Wandering Albatross, Royal Albatross, Black-browed Albatross, Light-mantled Sooty Albatross, Salvin’s Albatross, Grey-headed Albatross, Northern and Southern Giant Petrel, Sooty Shearwater and Little Shearwater. We will endeavour to spot the Fairy Prion, Fulmar Prion and Antarctic Prion – never an easy task – but we should get some great views. Other species to be on the lookout for include the Soft-plumaged Petrel, Mottled Petrel, White-headed Petrel, Grey-faced Petrel, White-chinned Petrel, Grey-backed Storm-Petrel, Wilson’s Storm-Petrel and the Black-bellied Storm-Petrel.

Days 7 to 8: Macquarie Island

Described by one Australian explorer as “One of the wonder spots of the world” this is the only place in the world where the beautiful Royal Penguin breeds. Three other species of penguins, the King, Gentoo and Rockhopper also breed here. You will never forget your first experience of a noisy ‘penguin city’, where the dapper inhabitants show no fear of their strange visitors and where you will be immersed in a tumult of chattering, feeding chicks; territorial disputes; petty pilfering and courtship displays. This all happens amongst the hundreds of Southern Elephant Seals lolling on the beaches and dunes. On arrival we meet with scientists and Park Rangers based here who will accompany us on all our landings.

Day 9: At Sea

We head north from Macquarie Island through waters rich in seabirds towards Campbell Island. We invite you to join the captain on the bridge, to keep a keen lookout for birds and for whales. Today there will also be briefings and lectures on Campbell Island in preparation for our visit there.

Days 10 to 11: Campbell Island – Perseverance Harbour

We spend two days exploring the island by foot taking in the panorama of rocky islets and sea stacks; once the lonely preserve of settlers and seal hunters and now returned to nature. Enjoy an easy walk to the nesting site of the Southern Royal Albatross at Col Lyall or walk across the hills to Northwest Bay and see the strange and beautiful megaherbs growing on the hills. These huge pink and yellow wild flowers have adapted well to the harsh conditions. We also seek out other wildlife such as Campbell Island Shags, Light-mantled Sooty Albatross and, on the beaches beyond, young male sea lions testing their strength.

Day 12: At Sea

At sea en route to the Port of Bluff, take the opportunity to relax and reflect on an amazing experience. We will recap the highlights of our expedition and enjoy a farewell dinner tonight as we complete the last few miles of our journey.

Day 13: Invercargill

We arrive at the Port of Bluff early in the morning. After breakfast, customs formalities and a last minute opportunity to bid farewell to your expedition team, you disembark and board our complimentary coach transfer to downtown Invercargill or Invercargill Airport.

Enquire for a full itinerary.

Click photos to enlarge Click a thumbnail to view a larger version

1862: Galapagos of the Southern Ocean 29 Nov 2018 1563: Galapagos of the Southern Ocean 3 Dec 2015 1363: Galapagos of the Southern Ocean 3 Dec 2013

1862: Galapagos of the Southern Ocean 29 Nov 2018

Day 1: Thursday 29th November
Arrival at Dunedin

“Good Morning Good People!” Judd Hill our Expedition Leader introduced himself in our Dunedin hotel lobby with a beaming smile, a twinkle in his eye and an ungovernable mop of corkscrewed hair. His cheerfulness and optimism remained a feature the trip. He, Rachael Iverson-Brown Heritage Cruise Director, and ship's Doctor Konrad Richter welcomed, briefed and prepared us for embarkation tomorrow morning.

Day 2: Friday 30th November
Port of Dunedin, At Sea

Heritage expedition guides Chris Todd and Norm Judd arrived at our hotel at 07:00, checked in our luggage and sent it ahead to our cabins. We followed by bus 20 minutes later to where the Spirit of Enderby (officially registered as the Professor Khromov) was waiting at the wharf, its deep blue hull and white superstructure crisp in the morning light. We climbed the gangway, were directed to our cabins and had a short time to explore the ship before clearing passport control, as Macquarie Island is an Australian territory.

After a cuppa we went straight into an emergency briefing about evacuation procedures; how to get off and on the inflatable Zodiacs used for outings, how to use the life-jackets, and the protocols for quarantine procedures and behaviour around wildlife before landing at any of the Subantarctic Islands. This was followed by a lifeboat drill, which involved clambering into the lifeboats, closing the hatch and starting the motor: Not an experience to repeat unless you really have to.

Formalities over, most of us went up to the top deck to watch our departure from Otago Harbour, seeing Pied and Variable Oystercatchers and at Tairoa Heads; Northern Royal Albatross and a colony of nesting shags, their pecking-distance nests creating a geometric pattern on the steep hillside. Once in the open sea Dan a British naturalist, gave a lecture on the identification of seabirds in the Southern Ocean, leaving the audience convinced that it was at best a challenging business!

An hour before dinner was ‘bar time’ and a chance to start getting to know our fellow passengers. Bar time was followed by dinner time, tonight a starter followed by a choice of delicious salmon or lamb-rack for mains from our excellent New Zealand chefs Lance and Damien.

The sun set over our bow as we passed Rakiura / Stewart Island to our west, a lingering sunset lighting the sky deep orange until after 10pm.

Day 3: Saturday 1st December
The Snares and at Sea

We awoke to wind from an unusual north-east quarter and an amazingly flat sea for this area.

Snares (Pintado) Petrel, flew around the ship or settled in feeding ‘rafts’ nearby. A few of the endemic Snares Crested Penguins swam out to us and porpoised or preened themselves. A few Sooty Shearwaters, which bred here in huge numbers, cruised around, rotating from side to side, their wing-tips almost scratching the waves. But by and large, there was not enough wind for seabirds to get the lift they rely on for energy-efficient flying.

While the ship drifted we launched the Zodiacs in the lee (southern end) of the main island half way between Broughton Island and Alert Stack. As we headed for the island we saw a series of rocky granite cliffs ringed by bull kelp (Durvilleae antarctica), it’s long, buoyant leathery blades streaming out over the surface. The clifftops were fringed by white-flowering hebe shrubs (Veronica elliptica), backed in turn by low-growing tree daisies (Olearia lyalii, and Pachystegia stewartiae).

After passing through surging swells in the channel between Broughton Island and North East Island, we rounded South Point and heading up the eastern side of the island. There we idled the Zodiacs in closer to the rock faces to watch a group of Snares Crested Penguins hopping and scrabbling up exposed rocky slopes to their nests in the forest above. Nesting Antarctic Terns chittered from the cliffs above us. We carried on past Mollymawk Bay to Ho Ho Bay, where Red-billed Gulls sat on ledges, with large Black-backed Kelp Gulls perching on the promontories. In the mouth of a sea-cave 2 jet black Snares Tomtits fluttered about picking invertebrates off the white, lichen-encrusted cliffs. We carried on and entered the relative shelter of Boat Harbour behind Station Point, where the Department of Conservation has a small field hut. This area was ‘penguin central’, with numerous penguin ‘rafts’ at sea pruning, porpoising to and from the shore, bickering amongst the kelp, hopping up into the forest or simply standing quietly on the rocks.

In a quiet cove 3 metres above the tide line we saw the rhubarb-like Azorella robusta in flower, our first ‘megaherb’. NZ fur seals resting on rock ledges whilst the more active Hookers Sea Lions played, fought, and leaped out of the water near the Zodiacs.

It was such an unusually calm day that we decided to circumnavigate the main island, an activity that rarely presents itself: Around every point were towering granite cliffs cracked into dramatic shapes; huge swells sloshed 10-15 metres up the cliffs before receding to leave big patches of churned, azure and white water; beautiful bull kelp danced and swirled into patterns with the swell, its robust holdfasts and rubbery stalks dividing into floating, copper-coloured strap-like blades several metres long.

After lunch we carried out our first quarantine checks, which involved inspecting all the gear we planned to take with us onto the islands, vacuuming it, cleaning it of any seeds or dirt and getting it checked off by a staff member. The object is to make sure that we bring nothing to the islands capable of either spreading or causing disease. It was surprising just how many exotic seeds came out of Velcro sleeve-adjustors and the webbing of backpacks.

In the afternoon Chris Todd gave a lecture about the New Zealand (or Hooker’s) Sea Lion, the world’s rarest and it’s conservation.

After dinner we had a ‘wildlife roundup’ in the bar; a summary of the birds and marine mammals we have come across in the course of the day.

Day 4: Sunday 2nd December
Enderby Island

The Spirit of Enderby dropped anchor in the calm waters of Port Ross (or Sarah’s Bosom as 19th century sailors referred to it), at 01:00, giving us with a calm tail end to our night’s sleep. Breakfast was served at 06:30, followed by a briefing about our landing. We picked up a packed lunch and by 08:30 we were in the Zodiacs heading to Sandy Bay beach at Enderby Island, our first landing! We landed in a tiny cove incised into the basalt inter-tidal shelf, from where we clambered over the nose of the Zodiac into ankle deep water amongst massive strands of leathery bull kelp. Twenty or thirty sea lions were scattered along the beach, contesting territory while they waited for the females to arrive. One or two growled and lunged at us as we crossed the beach, but without much conviction. Behind the western end of the beach lie 2 cabins, currently unoccupied, usually used for researching the New Zealand Sea Lion and Yellow-eyed Penguin, which have both declined dramatically in recent decades.

We divided ourselves into ‘longer’ and ‘shorter’ walkers; the latter crossed the island via the boardwalk and returned the same way to the beach before exploring the beach hinterland. The former crossed the island via the boardwalk then headed on a circuit around the eastern two thirds of the island. At the beginning of the boardwalk we entered a low forest of rata (Metrosideros umbellata) and turpentine scrub (Dracophyllum). As we climbed, the forest gave way to low shrubland, then tussock and herbfield as the island became more wind-exposed. The megaherbs were flowering prolifically: First the huge greeny-yellow spherical flower-heads of Macquarie Island Cabbage (Azorella polaris), then the bright yellow tubular flowers and strap-like leaves of Ross’s Lily (Bulbinella rossii), followed by the spectacular mauve globes of the Campbell Island Carrot (Anisotome latifolia). Auckland Island Dotterel (similar to their mainland counterparts but completely fearless) probed for grubs amongst the tough Astelia cushion plants and Auckland Island Pipits fed close by, oblivious to our presence. The distant white specks we could see on the hillsides were on closer inspection nesting Southern Royal Albatross. On the wild north-facing side of the island we looked out from the cliff tops to a foggy sea-scape, occasional Auckland Island Shags flying low over the water. The ‘circumnavigators’ headed east and soon entered aromatic fields of mauve and yellow megaherbs. We viewed a Light-mantled Sooty Albatross nest on the coastal cliffs, all subtle gradations of grey and brown, with a striking arc of white feathers just behind the eyes.

Steady rain set in with a gentle northerly wind. We passed Giant Petrels with chicks, giving them a wide birth to avoid disturbance. Red-crowned Parakeets fed on the ground amongst mauve and white Gentianella or perched on flowering Hebe bushes (Veronica lyalii). Black and white Auckland Island Tomtits flitted about, landing on sticks or megaherb flowers. A group of 5 Yellow-eyed Penguins ambled toward us along the cliff-tops.

We stopped for lunch at Derry Castle Reef, the site of a shipwreck in March 1887, from which only 8 of the 22 crew survived. A small bronze plaque marks the site. A testosterone-fuelled sea lion travelled about 200 metres across the reef and up the grassy bank to pay us a visit, occasionally lunging and bellowing at us before losing interest and ambling off to confront another sea lion. After lunch we climbed over a low spur and watched parakeets before dropping down to where a small creek entered the bouldery surf beach. Hardy Auckland Island Shags dived just beyond the surf-line. Snipe flew up in front of us several times in a flurry of wings before disappearing back into the tussocks. We weaved our way in and out of the sea lions to minimise confrontations, before climbing up one the coastal headlands though thick tussocks and low shrubs. Auckland Island Shags flew along the cliff-line, some carrying tufts of nest-building vegetation trailing from their bills, their crests and the bright magenta rings around their eyes very distinctive. We visited a small shag colony, the juveniles naively walking towards us and the adults ignoring us altogether, before dropping down to Eastern Bay, where there were sea lions, a young female elephant seal and a lone NZ Fur Seal yearling.

At the south-east corner of the island we entered the ‘enchanted’ rata forest: The juxtaposition of elements combined to create an almost dream-like scene: Gnarled and twisted rata trunks under a low, wind-sheared canopy; their bright crimson flowers in the canopy attracting Bellbird, Tui and bright green Red-crowned Parakeets. The forest floor was bright green moss interspersed with deep green rhubarb-like Azorella, smart black and white Tomtits flitting about amongst them.

We re-emerged on the coast and followed the rocky shoreline back to Sandy Bay, observing the Auckland Island Flightless Teal, pipits fossicking the tideline, shags nesting in the cliffs, giant petrels, and skua. After some heavy going through thick tussocks and shrubs, we were back at the eastern end of Sandy Bay, where we took a high detour to avoid the numerous Yellow-eyed Penguins. Back on the beach most of the large male sea lions were lying quietly, apparently exhausted by their constant battles. A group of 6 Yellow-eyed Penguins headed to the surf, looking warily in all directions before making a dash across the beach between sleeping sea lions and into the surf. On the way back to the ship we cruised along spectacular kelp-lined columnar basalt cliffs before returning for a very welcome dinner while the captain repositioned there ship.

For the shorter walkers we enjoyed an exceptionally productive few hours birding along the boardwalk, the northern cliffs and the grassland behind Sandy Bay. It was a great chance to find some of Enderby’s endemic and range-restricted species including the Auckland Island Tomtit, Auckland Island Banded Dotterel, Yellow-eyed Penguins, Auckland Island Teal, Auckland Island Snipe and most surprisingly of all a fine pair of New Zealand Falcons. The latter proved incredibly showy, clearly vigorously defending a territory, the larger female slightly paler and more heavily barred whilst the smaller male a darker and more streaked individual. The snipe proved amazingly obliging in the end with an adult furtively working its way through the grass tunnels and posing for all to see well. All in all it was a highly relaxing and amazingly successful few hours for the short walkers.

Immediately after dinner we hopped back into the Zodiacs to look for Rockhopper Penguins amongst the giant boulders lining the northern outer coast of Musgrave Inlet. We were in luck, although they were generally much easier to hear than see. We headed across to the southern side of the bay where we entered through an archway into an arena created by a collapsed cave, deeply serene, clear water overhung with huge stalagmites of moss-encrusted tree roots from the rata forest above. After exploring the still-intact cave next to it, we returned to the ship, where a cheese platter was served in the bar; a pleasant finale to a wonderful day.

5: Monday 3rd December
(Main) Auckland Island

“Good Morning good people! If you want to see the heads as we enter Carnley Harbour, this would be a good time to get up.”

The headlands rose from sea-cliffs to steep, tussock-covered hills, their tops disappearing up into low cloud. Up ahead of the ship the hills were clearer, with the fog apparently confined to the outer coast. After breakfast we ferried by Zodiac to Tagua Bay, the site of a coastwatcher’s hut built to monitor ‘enemy’ shipping during WWII. We were greeted by the musical notes of Bellbird and Tui, and the huffing of a testosterone-charged sea lion. There were signs of pig-tracks and rooting all along the beach.

We climbed up through Rata (Metrosideros) and Dracophyllum forest. Some of the rata trees near the bottom looked truly ancient, their branches drooping right down to the ground before rising back up into the canopy. At the derelict coast-watchers’ accommodation hut, we took a break while Chris explained the history, natural history and biogeography of the site. The huts were occupied by young men during World War II, whose job was to keep a look-out for enemy shipping. In the event there was none, but some of the expedition members made the most of their time there to study the plants, animals and natural history of the island. A number went on to become prominent New Zealand scientists and naturalists, perhaps most notably Robert Falla. We carried on up to the actual lookout, well concealed behind trees but still commanding good views of the harbour. It had been well conserved by the NZ Department of Conservation.

Alongside the track we saw five different species of orchids flowering, with tiny sundews (Drosera) in flower amidst the cushion plants (Astelia) just above the tree line.

Due to feral cats and pigs, the diversity and number of birds in the forest is much reduced. The New Zealand government is currently studying the feasibility of eradication. We returned to the ship two hours later, Judd being given a spirited send-off by the resident sea lion.

After lunch we had over 70 knots of wind in Carnley Harbour, which ripped the surface of the sea into clouds of spray. Thousands of Sooty Shearwaters appeared out of nowhere and streamed past the ship, flying so smoothly and effortlessly through the gale that they seemed to be in slow motion.

We carried on towards the head of North Arm, but the gale-force wind and poor visibility prevented us from reaching the site where the crew of a German ship the Erlangen cut Rata trees at the outbreak of World War II to stoke her boilers so they could sail to neutral South America and evade capture.

In the late afternoon Kevin Hague, CEO of Forest and Bird, supported by Department of Conservation observer Chrissie, gave a lecture on New Zealand’s Island Predator Eradications, including the national goal to be predator-free by 2050.

Day 6: Tuesday 4th December
At Sea

The day dawned significantly better than expected with clear skies and a light wind helping us on our way to Macquarie Island. Around us were ever present albatrosses with Southern Royals cruising effortlessly around the ship, their immense wingspan becoming apparent as they came close. In amongst them smaller White-capped Albatrosses also followed our wake and a majestic Gibson’s Wandering also circled the ship. Antarctic Prions, Sooty Shearwaters and Black-bellied Storm-Petrels also approached the ship for a closer look. By early afternoon the sea had flattened right out giving some superb reflections as the albatrosses glided by.

Our progress was swift and amazingly our arrival at Macquarie occurred during the evening (as opposed to the expected late night). The weather had deteriorated slightly with a prevailing westerly wind picking up but this did nothing to dampen the excitement of all onboard as the distinctive silhouette of ‘Macca’ loomed and our first groups of Royal and King Penguins porpoised away from the ship. As we enjoyed the emerging scene of rugged coast and abundant wildlife we suddenly realised there were at least three Orcas slowly moving along the coast, and by the looks of the attendant giant petrels and albatrosses they had recently made a kill. As the light faded we reluctantly returned to our cabins eagerly anticipating the following day’s landings.

Day 7: Wednesday 5th December
Macquarie Island, Sandy and Lusitania Bays

With the ship running two hours ahead of the local Australian time here at Macca we had to hold off on a super early start but as soon as the rangers were up and ready Judd, Dan and Chris headed inshore to drop our AAD passenger, Mel, off and pick up our four Rangers for the next couple of days; Chris, Luke, Annie and Danielle. Once onboard we were headed south to Sandy bay, a shelter half-moon bay 4 miles south of the research station. With blue skies and a warming sun we headed ashore for what was to be an undoubted highlight of the voyage. Pulling into the sheltered black sandy bay we were greeted by thousands of animals. Sleepy Elephant Seal pups, known as Weaners at this age, adorned the beach like polished rocks. In between them Royal and King Penguins plodded by in an ungainly manner occasionally stopping to inspect a seal or peck at a passing comrade. Brown Skuas and giant petrels lurked and prowled for something to scavenge on or perhaps a weak or sick animal to predate. Everywhere we looked there was something happening.

Once ashore everyone was free to roam along the beach, trying as hard as possible not to disturb any of the wildlife. This is a place to sit and watch and let the drama unfold around you. To the north of the landing is a ‘small’ King Penguin colony of several thousand birds. Here we enjoyed the interactions between courting pairs just starting the breeding cycle whilst giant brown fluffy chicks looked particularly incongruous compared with the sleek grey, black, white and orange of the adults. These youngsters are on the verge of moulting out into a sea-worthy plumage. At the southwest end of the beach Finch’s Creek was a congregation ground for moulting and bathing penguins, many simply standing in the cool water. At the back of the beach a boardwalk led up the hill to a massive Royal Penguin colony consisting of around 20,000 pairs. Many of these had small black chicks tucked in underneath their bellies in rather nondescript stone nests. Each nest is perfectly placed at beaks length from the next nearest neighbours, and be warned any penguin that should stray within that distance as multiple sharp beaks lie in wait to help it on its way up or down the colony.

Undoubtedly one of the main highlights was the Elephant Seal weaner encounters. These adorable pups pepper the beach basking in the sun, occasionally opening big doey eyes to watch as we walked past, a few however are a bit more confident. It’s these that provided many smiles and chuckles as they slowly wormed their way over to us sniffing, snorting, belching, farting all the way before dropping their heads down on our legs. Some nuzzled gumboots and bags, others tried to mouth our legs, a few even came close to getting a kiss! There’s not a lot not to love about these beautiful animals though its hard to believe that at least some will grow into monstrous, smelly, scarred and bleeding males!

We headed back to the ship for lunch, a chance to take in what a phenomenal morning it had been and recharge the batteries (literally and metaphorically) before heading back to Sandy Bay for seconds in the afternoon. This was another great chance to reabsorb the sights from the morning, catch up on things we may have missed and simply soak in all the action. Watching the penguin coming and going over the beach and through the breaking waves provides a never ending source of entertainment as they duck and dive, waddle and trip, some expertly enter the breakers, others get completely totaled by the surf!

As if we hadn’t seen and done enough during the day, over dinner Judd and Captain repositioned the ship south to the southern end of the island off Lusitania Bay. With the sun dipping behind the island we set off in five Zodiacs towards the coast and the vast colony of King Penguins. Here we slowly cruised along the shoreline savouring the sights and sounds (maybe not so much the smells) of 100,000+ Kings, a spectacular scene, atmosphere, experience even. The shore topography and their moulting behaviour meant that at points in the colony large ribbons of orange and black nestled tightly together as birds faced the sea whilst the majority of the colony appeared grey-black as they stood back-on to us.

Day 8: Thursday 6th December
Macquarie Island (Buckles Bay)

In stark contrast to yesterday today was a proper Macca day, low cloud, light drizzle and a brisk westerly breeze. Shortly after breakfast we started our Zodiac shuttles ashore onto Buckles Bay at the north end of Macquarie and close to the research base. A moderate swell was breaking on the shore so timing was everything. The Zodiacs backed into the beach and everyone shuffled off the pontoons and up the bouldery beach just before the next set would come through. The Zodiacs each managed to come and go avoiding the larger waves, not so Chris and Judd who were stationed in the frigid water in waders/dry suits to hold the Zodiacs, both of whom were flattened by larger waves; dedication to getting everyone ashore safe and as dry as possible.

Once ashore we split into groups to be guided by the rangers around the isthmus, the low narrow section of land housing the research station as well as most of the wildlife. A series of steps took us to the top of the razorback with views north over the bays and to the station. Below us waves crashed into the beaches and young male Elephant Seals practiced sparring at the waters edge. Small groups of King Penguins peppered the shore line whilst Northern and Southern Giant Petrels, and Light-mantled Sooty Albatrosses cruised the slopes in the updrafts. Working our way around the isthmus we also visited the Gentoo Penguin colony on the western beach where many of the chicks were virtually independent but still looking highly endearing. Once again we had some amazingly close encounters with Elephant Seal weaners whose inquisitive nature bought them lolloping across the shore to those who sat and watched. Just offshore a small island was home to a highly active colony of Macquarie Island Shags all actively rebuilding nests after a storm earlier in the year had cleared all the old ones away.

The rangers divulged a wealth of knowledge about the island, the station and the work that is being undertaken as well as providing a fascinating insight into living in the Subantarctic. Our visit culminated with a hot cuppa and scone (complete with jam and cream!) from the mess, a much needed warmer on a damp, cool day. Many headed out to see the release of the met weather balloon following which we slowly made our way back to shore and started the shuttles back to ship.

After lunch in the lee of the island the Captain set a course for Campbell Island and we waved goodbye to the amazing Macca; an island which had delivered more than we could possibly have hoped for. For most the afternoon was spent catching up on sleep, downloading thousands of images and generally relaxing. For those up on the bridge a smattering of albatrosses including Black-browed and Southern Royal came in to check out the ship.

Day 9: Friday 7th December
At Sea to Campbell Island

After all the excitement over the last couple of days todays sea day provided some much needed downtime. Once again the weather was on our side and a light tail wind helped us on our way, not only speeding up the journey but providing some good conditions for people to enjoy the sea scrapes.

The day was punctuated with lectures as well as making sure that once again we all cleared our biosecurity checks before making land fall tomorrow back in New Zealand territory. Sometime during the night the swell ceased and we had entered the blissful shelter of Perseverance Harbour, Campbell Island. What would tomorrow bring…

Day 10: Saturday 8th December
Campbell Island

Someone on this voyage is clearly an incredibly serendipitous person as the day dawned beautifully calm and clear, exceptional conditions for an island that receives rain on over 300 days a year and gusts of over 50knots on the majority of days!

Twenty of us got up early on a brilliant, almost windless morning, embarked on two Zodiacs at 0800 and motored up Perseverance Harbour to Tucker Cove for a walk to the other side of the island led by Chris. After exchanging our gumboots for walking boots we set off on a poled route up the hill through low, spiky Dracophyllum shrubland, with spongy Sphagnum moss underfoot. We stopped often to admire gentians, black-eyed daisies, beak orchids, cushion plants (Phylacne) with tiny white flowers, and everlasting daisies (Hell’s Bells – Anaphalioides bellidioides).

Antarctic Terns screeched overhead to warn us away from (and alert us to) their colony nearby. Just below the summit ridge the megaherbs grew and flowered in profusion, made even more exotic by the enormous white albatrosses nesting amongst them. We sat on the ridge to admire the view: the craggy tops of Dumas to our south, the magnificent limestone cliffs defining Northwest Bay to our west, and Dent (as in ‘tooth’) Island to our NW. We descended the limestone cliff-tops to Northwest Bay. We heard snipe calling and at one stage flushed one out, its striped body almost invisible against the dead fern-leaves. The last section of descent was a scramble and slide down through head-high tussocks, ending in a creek-bed to the rocky shoreline, where a big sea-lion hushed to acknowledge our presence. A Campbell Island Shag was fishing near the rocks and a Campbell Island Teal fossicked for small crabs amongst the kelp. After an early lunch on a flat rocky terrace, we climbed up a steep track through tall tussock and Dracophyllum. We continued up an old line of fence posts (from sheep-grazing days) and back onto the tussock-clad tops. Southern Royal Albatross were nesting every 100 metres or so, their white feathers in stark contrast to the dull browns and yellows of the tussock. Many were still building their nests, with a combination of grass, moss and peaty mud.

We eventually descended a long spur, past a beautifully sheltered cave on an outcrop surrounded by windswept shrubs, before dropping down through Dracophyllum shrubland to Garden Cove; muddy, tired but very happy. Judd arrived by Zodiac and ferried all but 2 of us across to the start of the boardwalk to climb up to Col-Lyall; a very full and beautiful day.

For the remainder of the passengers what lay ahead proved to be a first, something of an epic mission and very much in-keeping with Judd’s ability to continually push the boundaries of whats possible on these expeditions. Heading off with two full tanks of fuel the four Zodiacs headed out down Perseverance Harbour and passed a small Sealion rookery. Here an animal in the water gorged itself on a large fish attended by two very obliging Wilson’s Storm-Petrels. Rounding the corner a residual swell surged onto the cliffs rebounding to create a confused sea. A New Zealand Fur Seal and pup graced one of the ledges and above the group Light-mantled Sooty Albatrosses became increasingly obvious with around 50 pairs noted in total. Once into Sweetwater Bay the swell dropped away and the water calmed leaving us to cruise north passed large caves, cascading waterfalls, alongside stunning columnar basalt and luxuriant ledges adorned with flowering megaherbs. Out in the bay a melee of Cape and Giant Petrels and a few Wilson’s Petrels fed over what had clearly been a kill at some point. Onwards the group pushed, now North Cape in full view and as we passed Cossack Rock the distinct silhouettes of albatrosses over the far headland became apparent. As we neared lines of white dots slowly morphed into birds and further into an orderly mass of Campbell and Grey-headed Albatross all sitting aloft their ‘dog-bowl’ nest (as Michael aptly described it). Birds wheeled and cruised overhead, adults on the banks whined and brayed, bright honey-coloured eyes of the Campbells glaring down at us. The Grey-headed Albatross appeared more retiring, preferring the edges of the colony and under the Dracophyllum at the top of the slopes. As far as we know no other expedition has made it this far and what a spectacle had greeted us. At this furthest point we slowly worked our way back down the coast exploring inlets and caves before finally pushing back to the ship for lunch.

Whilst the Northwest Bay walkers tucked into their packed lunch we enjoyed a hearty meal aboard the Spirit of Enderby before shuttling back ashore at Beaman huts. The afternoons’ activities involved a stroll 3km up the boardwalk to Col Lyall the home to a number of breeding Southern Royal Albatrosses. With glorious blue skies and virtually no wind many were down to t-shirts, truly bizarre out here. The scent of the Dracophyllum permeated the air sweetly and as we advanced uphill this was replaced by the flowering Megaherbs, namely the Plurophyllum, Anisotome and Bulbinella’s. Tiny Orchids flowered alongside the tracks where Campbell Island Pipits fed without care at our passing. As we neared the top of the boardwalk a huge female Royal Albatross startled us from between the tussocks, followed by another and yet another. Most showed an exceptionally placid nature, not even opening an eye when the boardwalk passed within a metre of them, what a world to live in where you have no predators and no need to be suspicious of a passing creature twice your size. It is rare that conditions permit the group to relax back at the top of the walk but today all were able to soak in the stunning view down to Northwest Bay and watch the Royal Albatrosses whoosh by, cruising the landscape like a giant playground; true masters of the air. It’s tough to beat this place on a day like today.

Amazingly the Northwest Bay walkers still had energy in their legs when they arrived at their pickup point and many decided to add an extra 6km to their already 12km walk by ascending the board walk. By the time most were leaving the albatrosses had just started to come in to start their gamming, a form of display by subadult birds looking to establish territories in future years.

Amazingly not only did James and Konrad witness this stunning display but both had birds come up to them and start displaying! A truly exceptional end to a remarkable day on Campbell Island. The last Zodiac departed for the ship just after 1900 with everyone welcome to see a hefty dinner after such an action packed day. That evening we received a lecture; the “French Transit of Venus and the Search for the Frenchman’s Grave” by Norm Judd.

Day 11: Sunday 9th December
Campbell Island

The day dawned overcast but slightly warmer than the previous. A diffused light held promise for ardent photographers. Ahead was a day for those still wishing to test their energy levels; we could chose to walk again on the boardwalk beyond the Col Lyall Saddle overlooking Northwest Bay or a climb to the summit of Mount Honey, the highest feature on Campbell Island at 560m or, for the enthusiasts wanting to see wildlife at sea level, a Zodiac cruise around the Perseverance Harbour shoreline.

Twelve of us were up with our guide Chris for a 05:30 continental breakfast to climb Mt Honey, the highest point on Campbell Island. As we took the Zodiacs around to Garden Cove, a soft golden light suffused the tussock-clad hills and calm waters of the harbour. A young male sea lion met us on the muddy shore and danced around, wanting to play. Another male 3 times bigger torpedoed in to check us out, but seemed content just to watch us. We climbed up through Dracophyllum forest; spaghnum moss underfoot with 4 species of tiny ground-orchids growing through it. A pair of Campbell Island Snipe, which look and sound a bit like miniature kiwis, appeared and trotted along the track ahead of us. Since rats were eliminated from the island 17 years ago, snipe have spread from their last refuge on the tiny island of Jacquemart, across the whole island. We clambered on up steepening tussocky slopes, past gigantic Southern Royal Albatross sitting on or building nests: They are the original sod-house builders, assembling a combination of tussock and peat into the shape of a giant dog-bowl and tramping it down with their beaks to firm it up before laying an egg. The males come in first to make a start and show themselves willing. Then the females arrive and make it properly and in earnest. In one of last year’s empty nests we found 4 big long-liner fish-hooks, complete with severed traces. Higher still, we looked down over the smoothed glacial valley to Six Foot Lake, out to Monument Harbour, Jacquemart Island and a rock-stack impossibly slender and high, like a giant finger. The tussocks gave way to masses of ‘megaherbs’, some a metre across and a metre high; flowering mauve, magenta, lilac and yellow. After a quick group photo on the rocky summit in biting wind and mist, we retreated to the lee of the summit for chocolate and nuts before picking our way back down between the rocks and megaherbs, well pleased with our morning.

The 11 board walkers to Col Lyall set off at 08:30 and most who wanted to see arrived at the saddle around 09:15 (we had instructions to start making our return no later than 10am) and so had a good amount of time to take in the magnificent, wide-open valleys and the ocean’s metallic blue expanse. We were mindful of the lowering cloud on Mt Azimuth and Mt Fizeau and worried that we would become mist-bound but the cloud stayed put and we enjoyed the vibrant colours of the Bulbinella rossi, Pleurophyllum crinniferum and an occasional Campbell Island Carrot Anisotome latifolia before making our way back down the hill and a most welcome lunch aboard.

For the remainder of us we set out up Perseverance Harbour on a Zodiac cruise. First stop was a large Hooker’s Sea Lion rookery with around 100 animals jostling for space. In the waters next to us several animals came close to inspect the Zodiacs whilst Campbell Island Shags looked on in a perplexed manner. Further down the harbour we had an outstanding encounter with some Light-mantled Sooty Albatrosses breeding just metres above our heads. As one bird cruised by, the others on their ledges brayed out a call to them, flinging their heads back and inflating their chests in the process. Out at the mouth of the harbour a colony of shags clung to the cliffs, the swell rolled in and a single New Zealand Fur Seal held its ground on a rocky ledge. We ventured back inshore and towards Beaman huts where a couple of Campbell Island Teal obliged by foraging along the shoreline. Arriving at the huts a few keen birders disembarked with Dan in search of the snipe but sadly drew a blank whilst the remainder headed on further into the harbour to check out the Loneliest Tree and Garden Cove.

By late morning all were back onboard and tucking into a well deserved lunch following which the Captain upped anchor and sailed out of Perseverance Harbour and north. Once out of the 12 nautical mile marine reserve limit we proceeded to do a very small amount of chumming (chopping up just four fresh fish for the following seabirds. This resulted in some stunning views of Campbell and Southern Royal Albatrosses as well as White-chinned Petrels. In total twelve species of tubenose (seabirds) came into the back of the ship during the chumming period, quite exceptional. The remainder of the afternoon was spent enjoying the seabirds and relaxing onboard.

That evening our guide Norm gave a lecture “Lady of the Heather Hut”, which was a sometimes light-hearted, sometimes serious look at graves on Campbell Island.

Day 12: Monday 10th December
At Sea

This morning after breakfast, Judd gave us a briefing on what to expect when we go through the Customs part of tomorrow as we arrive in Bluff Harbour at the end of our expedition.

At 11:30, Moshe gave us an intriguing lecture on the natural distribution of plant forms throughout the world and the zonal similarities between altitude and latitude.

At 11:30 Dan spoke to us in the lecture room about Heritage Expeditions and their other voyages from the Ross Sea to Wrangel Island spanning just about every biome the Pacific, Southern and Arctic oceans have to offer.

The afternoon culminated in settling accounts (interrupted by seven Dusky Dolphins that came in for a bow ride) and was followed by the final recap and presentation before a sumptuous final dinner and cheese board.

In the evening we came to anchor in the lee of Stewart Island in preparation for disembarkation the following morning.

Day 13: Tuesday 11th December
Bluff

All passengers disembark at Bluff at 08:00 after an amazing and successful voyage.

1862: Galapagos of the Southern Ocean 29 Nov 2018 1563: Galapagos of the Southern Ocean 3 Dec 2015 1363: Galapagos of the Southern Ocean 3 Dec 2013

1563: Galapagos of the Southern Ocean 3 Dec 2015

3 – 15 December 2015

Day One

We left the harbour of mainland New Zealand from the Port of Otago, Dunedin at 10 am. We settled in fairly quickly. There was a 2-3 cm swell running, not perhaps the fiercest introduction to the Southern Ocean, but it did prove that oceans can behave, at least for a time. We had a leisurely cruise down the harbour in bright sunshine out to the heads with the Royal Albatross colony to our right (starboard for those diehard nautical fanatics who have to obfuscate the simplest terms). There were a few New Zealand Fur Seals wallowing in suitably slobbery fashion and the pod of dolphins we had booked to serenade our passage was late, but eventually turned up to see us on our way. We then nosed into the Pacific to start our run towards The Snares, hoping to find a bit of shelter to park the ship for a while.

The first lecture deep down on Level 2 went over how best to enter and leave a Zodiac. The dining room floor stayed fairly level for our first lunch – it is always good to have a well behaved dining room to start with, little did we know! We also had a practical introduction on how much fun we could all expect in a lifeboat. The last talk of the day was an introduction to The Snares islands and why such a growly piece of coastline gets so very few visitors.

The sea conditions were a little rough towards nightfall and the decision was made to head direct for the Auckland Islands with The Snares being impossible to approach, we thus remained hopeful for the way home. The ship was a bit twitchy overnight.

©GBodo 1563 Leaving Dunedin

Photo credit: G.Bodo

Day Two

The night was a wee bit bumpy with a fairly vulgar note in the wind and come dawn it was still a wee bit breezy. There was a good turn out at the first breakfast. The simple joy of a day at sea was embraced and there were some great bird sightings throughout the day. We rocked our way south into a south/south-westerly swell and night found us making relatively steady progress with a predawn arrival into blessedly calmer waters. The total distance travelled horizontally (135 miles) was supplemented by around 200 miles simply going up and down and sideways alas, but that sums up sea travel fairly well.

Day Three

Our third day at sea dawned pretty calmly as promised in the quiet waters off Enderby Island. Basalt column cliffs dominated the left side of the. It was relatively calm as we tucked into an early breakfast, with the dining room behaving almost as well as the one at home. After breakfast Rodney gave a lecture on the history of Enderby including the sad failure of the Port Ross township of Hardwick. Although it survived a couple of meagre years it was clearly doomed by lunchtime on day one. The Auckland Islands proved a very popular spot for shipwrecks. They even hosted two shipwrecks at the same time at one stage. One group of survivors manufactured shoe lasts and smelted metal manufacturing tools to build a ship for their own rescue. In the meantime the other group failed to even get a shelter together. We all got ashore mid morning and ambled up to the far side across the boardwalk. At the end of the boardwalk some continued on to explore Derry Castle Reef before returning to the DOC huts, while others enjoyed the good weather and views around the start zone. We then idled off shore enjoying the calm till sleep claimed us.

©MCawthorne 1563 Sandy Bay and Ship Enderby Island

Photo credit: M.Cawthorne

Day Four

The ship quietly relocated overnight and we awoke in the calm of Carnley Harbour, which more specifically is the collapsed caldera of what was once a fairly productive volcano, a few cones and plugs pointing to its somewhat smoky past. Having finished a peaceful breakfast, we made our way for a quick lecture from Rodney on the Auckland Islands group. Later we nosed around the historic sights such as where the Erlangen crew took out 200 tons of Rata wood, the site of the wreck of the Grafton and New Zealand’s number 2 Coast Watchers base. After 70 odd years of consistent neglect by the New Zealand government, the huts were looking slightly sorrier than the hull remnant of the Grafton. Apparently there was one sighting of an enemy vessel during the entire time of the Coast Watching project. Given that the German navy had abandoned wind powered vessels the previous century, it is hard to fathom why they would have bothered with a massive detour this far south. Perhaps they were feeling guilty and had a Rata replanting scheme in mind!

We had a pleasant clamber up to the view point with a restored watch hut not yet entirely covered in trees. It was noted that it had been fitted with a little log fire. A few Sea Lions were very keen to join us. It was interesting to see how far they had wandered up the hill and to be fair they did contribute quite well to track maintenance. After a quiet lunch we drifted out to find some more heavy duty wave action for the 350 odd nautical mile sprint down to the eastern outpost of the Australian Empire, aka Macquarie Island. The chefs and waiting staff again did a most superb job of putting food on plates and keeping it there until it was attacked by hungry expeditioners.

Day Five

After some rough morning seas, the ocean calmed down a bit. ‘Millpond’ would be pushing it but it was certainly better than the morning. Evening found us gently rolling along with barely a rock to the ship. There was one brief whale sighting which looked ‘Baleenish’ but the encounter was too brief to be certain which one. A very brief bird recap for the day was held in the bar before dinner and relatively peaceful night.

©RSagar 1563 Albatross at Sea

Photo credit: R.Sagar

Day Six

We found ourselves gently drawing near to Macquarie Island. This island sits right on the continental divide and hosts more earthquakes than anywhere else in Australia. After breakfast and an introductory lecture the landings started at 9.45am in Buckles Bay, just near the Australian Antarctic Division research station. An impressive symphony of snorts, farts, honks and squeaks from Elephant Seals accompanied us all the way up to the base where we were treated to freshly baked scones. The penguins were suitably curious about the boat loads of new arrivals. The Orcas were more focused on looking for fresh and tender baby Elephant Seals that had just begun to frolic in the surf. The large pots for cooking up Sea Lions and penguins looked suitably rusted and decrepit and were now ironically almost totally surrounded by penguins. We noted that Joseph Hatch (the blubber boiling man) claimed that there were more penguins left there at the end of his project than the start. We were back aboard the Spirit of Enderby eating lunch as we steamed to Lusitania Bay but alas found it immersed in murk and grey so headed back north for another restful night off Buckles Bay.

Day 7

Australian waters were behaving very well with just a gentle rock and not a lot else to greet the morning greyness. Meantime, a good breakfast before we went ashore to Sandy Bay. The baby Elephant Seals didn’t seem to have heard about the 5m rule and several made close attempts to befriend passengers. The Royal and King Penguins were both fairly noisy but with a much smaller symphonic range than the blubbery snot and flatus machines on the beach. The Skuas/louts of the beach were ever watchful for exposed baby penguins but were equally happy savouring anything dead. The rain did eventually pass and one of the crew reported seeing the sun but it didn’t appear to want to dry anything and escaped before the last of us was retrieved back for lunch. We decided to return all the rangers back to their base and head off towards Campbell Island.

©RSagar 1563 Royal Penguins Sandy Bay Macquarie Island

Photo credit: R.Sagar

Day 8

At sea.

Day 9

After breakfast the lecture theatre the place to be with a full programme offered for the day. Offerings came from Rachel who discussed the making of a seabird from the evolutionary perspective. Chris then shone some light on marine weather, in part gleaned from his amazing yacht trip across the NW Passage. Martin talked about the Hookers Sea Lion and Elephant Seals and then Rodney gave an outline to Campbell Island to end the day. These presentations and watching out for wildlife consumed a relatively calm day for the Southern Ocean as we cruised north towards Perseverance Harbour, arriving around midnight for a peaceful sleep.

Day 10

It was a beautiful dawn and everyone agreed that the sun was definitely in the sky. The early party left for North West Bay on a fairly good path although a wee bit overgrown with a reasonable grunt up through tussock. We negotiated a path through the middle of a small landslip over to the far cliffs, avoiding the acidic fetid fish oil, the result of projectile vomit from the petrels on one side and the cliff edge on the other. Then it was time to stop for lunch on the beach, sitting around a trickle of a waterfall while a Leopard Seal lazed below along with a dozen Elephant Seals which were busy yawning, belching with the occasional lifted flipper. After lunch we drifted up to the North West Hut. The last visitor had apparently been over in March this year. Later we crossed up and over the central basin where we mostly managed to avoid the low flying albatross, that swooped by with a very audible ‘whoosh’. Groups were gadding and gamming around generally and one even deigned to flap a wing in the breeze. We then descended back through the Dracophyllum slalom course to the beach at Camp Cove where the most depressed/loneliest tree in the world (a Sitka Spruce) was shivering with a gleeful Connor, both waving in the wind. Connor had come by Zodiac to deliver us back to the Spirit of Enderby. The rest of the party ascended Col Lyall on the boardwalk to view the albatross who behaved beautifully in the increasing wind with a great deal of activity from 3.30pm onwards giving a behavioural bonanza. Martin ‘flushed out’ a Snipe. With wind rising from the north east, Rodney collected the last of the group from Tucker Cove and we enjoyed dinner and a calm night.

Photo credit: M.Bartlett

Day 11

Sadly the day dawned misty and cloudy decimating the attempt at Mt Honey before it began. The Zodiac cruisers went from below Beeman Hill down to the base finding a good assortment of seals, teals, shags and a godwit. Some went ashore at Camp Cove for a close up view of the Sitka Spruce. They then visited at the homestead site inspecting the sole remnant, a stove. With worsening weather and dampening enthusiasm, there was a strong trend back to the ship for lunch. Lunch cued our departure as we patched up and were off for home via The Snares and hopefully a final Zodiac spin. There was lots more bird activity as we went north.

Day 12

The ride was still a bit bumpy as we headed for The Snares. Rodney gave a summary of the evolution of Heritage Expeditions from the early days on the Acheron which carried just 12 passengers to the Spirit of Enderby carrying 50 passengers today. He then gave a hint of his next venture which is once again a 12 passenger vessel but totally different to his first ship. The name of this new vessel will be Strannik which is Russian for ‘pilgrim’. We look forward to hearing more about this new venture and craft. Later we had a sneak preview of film shot by some of the passengers and were impressed by Genevieve’s editing skills in what they said was raw footage. The images took us right back to the stark beauty of the islands we had visited. We were able to cruise in close to The Snares and could see dense clouds of Sooty Shearwaters, sedate Snares Crested Penguins passing and fairly good albatross numbers. A relatively quiet night followed as we headed back to Bluff for breakfast.

Photo credit: R.Sagar

Day 13

Disembarked after breakfast and waved farewell to our new friends. The Southern Ocean had managed to live up to its tempestuous reputation but we had still achieved most of what we set out to do. Thanks to all for their participation and to Captain Dimitri and his crew. Good luck for 2016 and beyond.

1862: Galapagos of the Southern Ocean 29 Nov 2018 1563: Galapagos of the Southern Ocean 3 Dec 2015 1363: Galapagos of the Southern Ocean 3 Dec 2013

1363: Galapagos of the Southern Ocean 3 Dec 2013

Day 1: 3 December 2013
Dunedin

At 9am the bus swept onto the wharf in Dunedin and expeditioners began to board the Spirit of Enderby (aka Professor Khromov) and luggage and cabins were organized. Once aboard most found the deck where entertainment was provided by a pipe band, augmented by a saxophone, piano accordion and singing guitarist. An addition to the band was one very burly, beautifully socialized and friendly dog belonging to one of the wharf workers. He was obviously accustomed to the wharf-side environment and pranced and gamboled about as the band played a selection of Scottish tunes and some updated medleys.

At 1000 we slipped our moorings and the Spirit of Enderby, guided by the pilot, proceeded down the channel heading for the open sea. Off the Aramoana Mole the Dunedin pilot boat burbled alongside to collect the pilot waiting on the rope ladder hanging down the ship’s side. With a nimble ‘Zorro-like’ leap the pilot landed on the deck of his vessel and waved us off. We rounded Tairoa Head where we could see Royal Albatrosses nesting amongst the long grass and soaring over the upper slopes of the Head. At 1130 we filed down through the ship to the lecture room where Nathan gave his informative introduction to the ship and the staff.

It was not long before we felt the gentle roll and lift of the open sea. Captain Dimitry Zinchenko set our course for the Subantarctic islands and the voyage began. Lunch was announced and the chefs produced the first in a series of superb meals which we would enjoy throughout the voyage.

At 1330 we all participated in the mandatory lifeboat drill which precedes every voyage. As the alarms rang (7 bells followed by one long one) expeditioners donned their life jackets and made their way to the boat deck where all climbed into the bright orange lifeboats. Conditions in full lifeboats can only be described as ‘intimate’, but what better way to meet your fellow travellers? Passengers were advised that the boats contain food and water for a full complement for about 6 days. “Excuse me” said one querulous voice, “but where do we go to the bathroom?” In the afternoon Nathan gave his introductory lecture on the use of the Zodiac inflatables and followed that with an illustrated introduction to the Snares Islands, our first destination.

Conditions for our first day at sea were superb. A light northwesterly wind and sea followed us as we made our way south past Saddle Hill, the Catlins coast, Murderers Bay and Nugget Point. The evening meal was excellent and the sunset beautiful as we sailed south along the east coast of Stewart Island.

(c) ABreniere 1363 Departing Otago Harbour
Departing Otago Harbour. Photo credit: A.Breniere

Day 2: 4 December 2013
Snares Islands

Weather forecast: Northerlies 15-20kts freshening to 40-45kts in the afternoon, swell from north at 2-3m. Sea conditions moved from benign to decidedly more malignant overnight and the run on sick bags was like the New Year sales.

0730 Breakfast was attended by a few hearty stalwarts and a parade of pale faces who had to rapidly learn the art of eating cereals without spilling the milk.

During the morning Samuel and Martin were on the bridge birding and whale watching respectively. Samuel saw our first Mottled Petrel of the trip and some Sooty Shearwaters. Martin saw three whale blows but the height of the swell and the wind speed prevented identification. As we travelled south, moving out of the lee of Stewart Island, conditions became increasingly rough. Nathan decided it was too rough for the planned Zodiac cruise of the Snares Islands and the ship would travel as close as possible to the islands to allow passengers a relatively close look instead. Wisely, in deference to the tender state of many of the passengers and aware that in rolling conditions sitting in the lecture room is akin to being inside a galloping cow’s stomach, Nathan postponed the mid-afternoon lecture. Meanwhile the super-keen bird watchers were out on deck while other passengers popped in and out the doors to get some fresh air. At 1620 a pod of 6 Common Dolphins was seen 15-20m off the port side. Among the birds seen were Wandering, Royal and Salvin’s Albatrosses, Black Bellied Storm Petrels, White-chinned and Giant Petrels and a Thin-billed Prion.

The wet aft-deck is particularly slippery in a heavy roll as one of our number discovered when he fell onto his back and shot towards the gate where, fortunately, he prevented himself from being the first man-overboard with a well placed foot on the superstructure. During this caper his grandson stood aghast, mouth open, clutching his camera – but no photos. What a missed opportunity! Up on the port side 400 level, another passenger, unused to the roll, inadvertently toppled out through the open door onto the deck among the legs of those lining the rail. One of the staff got her upright and back inside, shaken but not bent. Some minutes later she took another tumble and fell down the stairs tragically breaking her femur in the process. Dr Sam, an A&E expert, rapidly attended to her in the ship’s hospital and made her as comfy as possible for the overnight run back to Port Pegasus, Stewart Island, while Nathan arranged for her to be helicoptered off the ship the next morning and taken to Kew Hospital in Invercargill.

The meals today were again excellent even though they were prepared under very trying conditions by chefs Bruce and Dean. What a shame 31 crème caramels remained uneaten. The “Mal de Mer” won again!

(c) SBlanc Snares Islands
Snares Islands. Photo credit: S.Blanc

Day 3: 5 December 2013
Stewart Island

After breakfast in the sheltered, bush-clad calm of Port Pegasus, one of New Zealand’s most beautiful natural harbours, Martin gave a comprehensive introductory talk on the Hooker’s (New Zealand) Sea Lion which we were to encounter in coming days at Sandy Bay, Enderby Island. At about 1000 our unfortunate patient was taken by Zodiac into North Arm at Port Pegasus where she was uplifted and flown by helicopter to Invercargill for further treatment. As soon as Nathan returned, the Zodiac was loaded and secured and Captain Dimitry resumed our course south to Enderby Island.

After lunch, Samuel gave an introductory talk on sea birds of the region illustrated with some exceptional photographs. At 1530 everyone went to the Bar/Library where the DOC rep, Kirsten Ralph, was overseeing the important task of cleaning and vacuuming all packs and walking gear to be taken ashore of any vegetable matter to prevent the accidental introduction of alien seeds to at Enderby Island.

The last talk of the day was Nathan’s fascinating introduction to the Auckland Islands. He covered the geological history, sealing, settlement, the shipwrecks, farming, the wartime activities of the ‘Cape Expedition’ coast watchers and finally, the implementation of reserve status and removal of feral animals.

Day 4: 6 December 2013
Auckland Islands - Enderby Island

At 0430 the Spirit of Enderby dropped anchor about 500m offshore from Sandy Bay, the location of the second largest breeding rookery of New Zealand Sea Lions. The weather was not quite what we’d hoped as thick sea fog blanketed the island and driving mist promised a soggy walk around the coast.

After breakfast, the chefs, Bruce and Dean, assisted expeditioners to assemble their packed lunches and by 1000 all passengers going ashore had been landed at the convenient gap in the rock platform west of the beach. We all walked in single file past the massive bachelor male sea lions guarding their territories in anticipation of the arrival of the females coming ashore to pup in about 7 days and climbed up to the historic boatshed erected in 1888 by the crew of the NZ government vessel “Stella”. Life jackets and gumboots were stored there in bins from the ship and we then made our way across the sward past the restored Stella Hut (built in 1880) to the boardwalk crossing Enderby Island to the northern cliffs. The boardwalk snakes its way through the wind-sculpted Rata forest where we saw Red-fronted Parakeets (“Kakariki”) and out into the open where we walked among wind-shorn Rata bushes with crimson new growth and aromatic Cassinia bushes to the top of the island (elevation about 30-35m asl). At that point, those who wished to continue the walk eastward around the island set off with some of the expedition team, while those content to botanise and spend more time in the Sandy Bay area were free to return to Sandy bay and the Sea Lions under the watchful eye of Arthur.

As time was limited the walkers set a fast pace and despite the awful conditions, managed to see Light-mantled Sooty Albatrosses soaring through the murk, Red-billed Gulls, Auckland Island Shags, Skuas, Black-backed Gulls, Giant Petrels, Red Polls, Pipits, Red-crowned Parakeets , Flightless Teal and Yellow Eyed Penguins. The walkers returned to Sandy Bay between 1430 and 1500. There was little activity among Sea Lions on the beach where only 4 females and one stillborn pup were present.

Everyone was back on board the ship by 1645 when the anchor was lifted and we left Sandy Bay. Captain Dimitry ran a course south in the lee of Auckland Island in oily, foggy calm, so we could dine in relative comfort. At 2130 we cleared the lee of Auckland and Adams Islands and rolled our way across the westerly swells south west to Macquarie Island, 360 nautical miles (and 1.5 days) away.

(c) LMcKenzie Yellow Eyed Penguin Enderby Island
Yellow Eyed Penguins. Photo credit: L.McKenzie

Day 5: 7 December 2013
At Sea enroute to Macquarie Island

Throughout the night and in the early morning, despite the 20kt southerly wind and a 2m swell on the port quarter, we maintained a brisk speed of 11-11.5kts en route to Macquarie Island. As the Southern Ocean would have it, by 1000 our speed was reduced to 9kts with rising sea and wind. A few albatrosses and prions followed the ship but the hardy birders on deck reported nothing unusual.

In the late morning Samuel gave a superb lecture on penguins, demonstrating once again his profound knowledge of his subject and his ability as an excellent photographer. Lunch was a perfect lasagne produced by Bruce and Dean under tricky conditions in the galley where the ship’s roll caused anything unsecured to levitate and fly about the stove, ovens and benches.

Just after 1415 Duade spotted 2 sperm whales at 53°10’S 161° 50’E. Fifteen minutes later, Martin gave a repeat of his lecture on Hooker’s Sea Lions for the benefit of those who missed it the first time around. The lecture was well attended, despite the roll, probably because of group’s recent experience of these animals on Enderby Island. By and large, this was a day when people either stayed on their bunks or in the Bar/Library reading, playing cards, editing photographs or just socializing. However, as might be expected, a small coterie of hardy birders made it out on deck looking for those ‘life list’ sightings or the one remaining species they haven’t seen.

Our speed had been reduced to 9kts and once again the chefs gave us a hard choice, Blue Cod fillets or Short Ribs. When conditions are difficult for the chefs the staff usually help out in the galley. Tonight Martin was the fish cook.

2130 Our speed had risen to 10.8-11.2kts and we had a little over 50nm to run to Macquarie Island with an ETA around 2am.

Day 6: 8 December 2013
Macquarie Island - ANARE Station at Buckles Bay and Sandy Bay

Soon after 0200 we dropped anchor in Buckles Bay, Macquarie Island. The motion ceased and all aboard dropped into a deep and restful sleep in preparation for a busy day ahead. After the miserable conditions at Enderby Island and on the way to Macquarie Island, one could be forgiven for thinking the weather was not going to improve much. How wrong you can be. The morning was sunny and clear and in the lee of the island the westerly wind was hardly apparent. A pod of Orca patrolled the water just off the beach followed by hopeful Giant Petrels and Skuas.

After Nathan’s comprehensive introduction to Macquarie Island we all prepared for a much anticipated landing. Martin and Arthur went ashore first with Nathan to act as boat ‘grabbers’ at the landing and by 1000 all passengers were ashore enjoying close encounters with King, Gentoo and Royal penguins, the predominantly white Southern Giant Petrels and Elephant Seal weaners about 2 months old. Our party was split into groups, each accompanied by one of the efficient TASPAWS (Tasmanian Parks and Wildlife Service) rangers. One group climbed to the lookout platform from where you get a panoramic view of Buckles Bay on the eastern side, Hassleborough Bay on the west, and along The Neck to the Base Station where most of the inhabitants of Macquarie Island do their work. Another group was down on the beach photographing. We made our way along Hassleborough Bay beach to the balloon shed where the meteorologist explained the workings of a hydrogen filled, high-altitude met balloon and the data collecting package it carries. Finally we stopped at the Base mess hall where the hospitality and quality of the scones is legendary (for all you bakers, lemonade is the secret raising agent) and the tea and coffee come just at the right time. Passports were stamped with the Macquarie Island ‘visa’ by the ‘postmaster’. For one of our number this visit to the Macquarie Base had special significance. Graham Lodwick was a physicist here 50 years ago to the day and found the group photo on the wall to verify it. Back at the landing, we farewelled our Macquarie wildlife Ranger escorts and boarded the Zodiacs, which made a brief run past the Rockhopper Penguin rookery on the way back to the ship for lunch.

At 1530 the weather was holding but the accumulation of high cirrus and other clouds suggested a northerly change was on its way. Captain Dimitry lifted the anchor in Buckles Bay and steamed south along the coast to Sandy Bay where all were landed for a three hour walkabout among the Royal and King Penguins and the Elephant Seals. Here all the animals and birds are fearless and inquisitive. Penguins would nibble at boots and clothing, while Elephant Seals were accepting and playful. After first investigating Dr Sam, who was lying prone on the beach, an Elephant Seal pup licked his face, then crawled up onto his back and went to sleep! Sam had to record this or nobody back in Lyttelton would believe him. He passed his camera to Martin who took the shot, handed the camera back and walked away laughing, leaving Sam to work out how to get out from beneath the affectionate, and fairly hefty youngster.

After 3 hours ashore, our group and rangers were shuttled back to the Spirit of Enderby which, by this time, was rising and falling 1.0m – 1.25m on the increasing swells. Transfers from Zodiacs to the gangway were tricky but everyone managed to board safely, thanks to some timely ‘strong arming’ by the Bosun Yuri and one of the Russian crew. We steamed back to Buckles Bay in an increasing northerly wind and swell to drop the rangers at the Base. Local safety rules require that we have two Zodiacs in the water at any one time, and perhaps that is just as well. Nearing the landing, we noticed a big (8-9m) male Orca with an exceptionally large dorsal fin, patrolling the kelp edge close to the beach. He was on the lookout for a tasty young Elephant Seal yearling. We waited until he had cleared the area, then quickly dropped the rangers at the beach and made our way back to the ship. The Zodiacs were craned aboard and lashed down at the end of a great day ashore. It is a rare occasion indeed when you can get excellent weather on Macquarie Island which allows excursions at both Buckles Bay and Sandy Bay in one day. Bruce and Dean produced yet another superb dinner and the Captain steered us slowly southward in the lee of the island towards Lusitania Bay, the site of a huge King Penguin rookery.

(c) SBlanc 1363 Sandy Bay Macquarie Island
Sandy Bay, Macquarie Island. Photo credit: S.Blanc

Day 7: 9 December 2013
Macquarie Island - Attempt at Lusitania Bay and enroute to Campbell Island

Lusitania Bay, the site of Joseph Hatch’s infamous (failed) 1899 penguin oiling venture, was hidden from view by sea fog driven by a stiff northerly wind. Given our tight schedule, there was no point in hanging about so the Captain set a course for Campbell Island. The wind on our beam and the westerly swells on the port quarter promised a rolly trip. Breakfast was marked by human cannonballs with plates of food lurching about the restaurant. Fortunately nobody was hurt.

In the galley where Bruce was preparing lunch it was like a war zone, with the air punctuated by bangs and curses. Bruce was showered with spices and black pepper corns which rolled about the deck making walking interesting. Dean made repeated trips to the hold for lunch ingredients emerging with terse comments such as, “it’s carnage down there mate”. But, as usual, Bruce and Dean put out an excellent lunch for those passengers who were brave enough to come to the dining room. The food would never have made it onto the tables without the athleticism and extraordinary balancing skills of Natalia, the Chief Stewardess and Zoya her assistant. Despite the conditions, these two never dropped a plate, were always cheerful and somehow always knew where vertical was.

In the afternoon a visitor to the galley would have seen Dr Sam, his Hobbit feet dusted white with flour, sitting watching the bread mixer as it prepared the dough for the naan bread to accompany the curry at dinnertime. The clingfilm-covered dough was left to prove in a large roasting pan in the warmth of the galley. As the afternoon wore on the dough rose and rose and showed signs of escaping from under or, exploding from its clingfilm bonds. It was rapidly punched down and Sam and Martin spent the rest of the afternoon rolling the naan bread which Sam cooked for the evening meal.

Day 8: 10 December 2013
Enroute to Campbell Island

At sea en route for Campbell Island. Course 075°, wind 040°, 20 - 30 kts. Swells 3m. Rough. In the words of the Chief Mate Evgenii (Zhenia), “Is very good weather for this place”. Nathan decided there would be two lectures in the morning, by Samuel and Martin respectively. In the afternoon, Agnès opened her ‘Sea shop’ and trade was brisk as usual. Later, Nathan gave his introduction to Campbell Island. He then asked for a show of hands of all those interested in walking across the island to Northwest Bay and back. The remainder elected to walk to Col Lyall.

After a very rough, rolly and sleepless night (the ship was rolling up to 30° each way) Campbell Island appeared through the murk at about 1830. About 30 minutes later we entered the calm of Perserverance Harbour. The air was cold and rain showers came scudding down the harbour from the northwest. We passed Davis Point on the northern side of the harbour entrance and Martin made repeated counts of the Sea Lions hauled out at what is the largest rookery on Campbell Island.

Davis Point rookery: Males 42 (incl 3 harem bulls); Females 30, Pups 1

About ½ mile further into the harbour, on the south side, is the euphemistically named Paradise Point where Sea Lions have bred in the past. Because of the nature of the terrain here – a 25-30° peat and tussock slope dropping to a 2.5m cliff with rain pools at the waters edge – pup mortalities have been very high in past seasons.

Paradise Point rookery: Males 3-4; Females 1. Pups 0

At about 1930 we dropped anchor off the meteorological station (Beeman Base).

(c) SBlanc 1363 At Sea
At Sea. Photo credit: S.Blanc

Day 9: 11 December 2013
Campbell Island

After breakfast Nathan and the Northwest Bay walkers were dropped ashore at 0930 to begin their trek across the island. The weather looked alright at this time but we knew it could change quickly. One hour later, Samuel and Martin began landing passengers at the base before setting off for Col Lyall. The wind was gusting strongly and the rain began slashing down driven by the strong northwest wind. Agnès, Samuel and Arthur led off with the main group while Dr Sam and Martin helped Joan along the boardwalk. Joan made steady progress, stopping frequently to admire the plants (she trained as a botanist) and the views, which she said were “so much better than looking at my feet all day”. The sleety rain, low cloud and strong, gusty wind made for a cold, wet walk. As the first Zodiac back to the ship was at 1300, people started down soon after reaching the Col Lyall saddle. Although there were a few albatrosses sitting in the shelter of tussocks or on nests in the vicinity of the saddle no displays had taken place. Sam, Joan and Martin had a late lunch in the shelter of the huge tussocks as albatrosses ghosted out of the murk, wings whooshing in the wind barely 4-5m above ground. Fifteen minutes later the cloud and mist lifted a little and a full changeover display occurred – just what Joan and Michelle had wanted to see. We set off back down the boardwalk for the base and 2 ½ hours later Samuel came and picked us up. Joan, complete with sticks, was craned aboard in the Zodiac, ending a very creditable day for this remarkable 84 year old ex-Himalayan climber. The Northwest Bay walkers had returned after a tough but rewarding walk with stunning views when the weather permitted. Notable observations today were Campbell Island Teal, Hooker’s Sea Lions and young Elephant Seals around the landing, Snipe up the boardwalk and of course, Southern Royal Albatrosses. Along the boardwalk the prickly shield fern Polystichum vestitum and the water fern Histiopteris incisa were common, mosses are everywhere and spectacular lichens cling to the trunks of the grass trees Dracophyllum longifolium and D.scoparium.

Up around Col Lyall, three species of the megaherb daisies Pleurophyllum were common as were the two large relatives of carrots Anisotome latifolia and A.antipoda. The iconic Subantarctic yellow flowering lily Bulbinella rossi, the gentian Gentiana antarctica is endemic to Campbell Island as is the beautiful blue flowered hebe H.benthamii found next to the boardwalk.

The animated chatter over dinner was the best indication of a good day’s activities.

Day 10: 12 December 2013
Campbell Island

Three activities were planned for the morning before our departure at about 1230:

Mt Honey walk, Zodiac cruise, a return to the Mt Lyall boardwalk for those who missed out yesterday.

At 0530, the 13 Mt Honey (569m) climbers, accompanied by Samuel and Dr Sam were dropped at their departure point at the eastern end of Garden Cove. At about 0620 an amazing phenomenon occurred in Perseverance Harbour, a blinding sunrise in a largely clear sky! At 0840 Nathan briefed everybody opting for the Zodiac cruise and Col Lyall.

At 1030 the cruise and Col Lyall groups boarded the Zodiacs and were away. The walkers were landed at Beeman Base and the Zodiac cruisers with Agnès, Nathan and Martin set off around the head of Perserverance Harbour visiting Tucker Cove and the farm site, the ‘loneliest tree in the world’ at Camp Cove, and Garden Cove. As usual the wind got up and blew strongly around Beeman Hill with great willwaws ripping towers of spray off the sea and raising an ugly chop – just when the Zodiac drivers had to land their passengers back on the ship. Martin collected the Col Lyall walkers while Agnès and Nathan brought Samuel, Dr Sam and the Mt Honey climbers back aboard without incident.

Captain Dimitry lifted the anchor at about 1230 and we sailed up the east coast of Campbell Island so all aboard could have lunch in relative comfort before setting our course for the Snares Islands, about 30 hrs steam away.

(c) SBlanc View from Mount Honey Campbell Island
View from Mount Honey, Campbell Island. Photo credit: S.Blanc

Day 11: 13 December 2013
Enroute to Snares Islands

Both the lectures and Nathan’s briefing re disembarkation procedure were cancelled due to the rough conditions encountered as we push into a strong northerly wind and a beam sea. Nevertheless, we were making a good 11.3kts and our ETA at the Snares was 1530.

0830 Position: 49°07’S 167° 11’E. 1 fin whale crossed the bow from starboard to port.

At 1530 we hove to in South Bay. A heavy swell was running with a wind chop over the top. Two Zodiacs were dropped, with Nathan and Sam in one, Samuel and Martin in the other. The boats proceeded out through the passage between the islands on the eastern side of the bay heading up the coast for the biological station where four ornithologists, who have been working on the islands for 14 days, were picked up for return to New Zealand.

In the Bar/Library before dinner Nathan gave his disembarkation briefing. He was followed by Samuel who presented a superb chronological slide show of the trip he and Agnès had prepared. This was made available free to any passengers either on a memory stick or DVD.

This evening, under very trying conditions, Bruce and Dean excelled themselves in the galley preparing a special end of cruise buffet of roast lamb, ham, prawns, mussels, salmon, salads, potatoes, kumara and vegetables. For dessert there was a selection of crème caramel, meringue baskets with mascarpone, raspberries and cream. It was the perfect fare to complement a similar trip.

(c) ABreniere 1363 Albatross at Sunset
Photo credit: A.Breniere

Day 12: 14 December 2013
Port of Bluff

At 0630 on a sunny Bluff morning we were slowly making our way to the pilot station.

The pilot boarded at 0700 and 30 minutes later the Spirit of Enderby was secured alongside. It was sad to see all the corridors lined with baggage as we prepared to disembark. Customs and Immigration and biosecurity officers come aboard and, in no time we were cleared for landing. A short time later we had boarded the bus for the airport or town centre taking with us new memories, new friendships and memory cards stuffed with unforgettable images. Our adventure was at an end.

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" What a fabulous trip, absolutely awesome Judd was a brilliant leader as were all expedition staff "

- Pam Holdsworth

" Tender moments you never forget "

- Archie

" Having kayaked around most of coastal New Zealand I was very excited at the opportunity to be able to join Heritage Expedition’s journey to the Sub Antarctic Islands with my kayak on board. Nine kayakers were able to leave the ship on a daily basis to explore the shore line of The Snares, Auckland, Macquarie and Campbell Islands. For us, each Island had its own special treasure which we were able to experience up so close. The rugged rocky outcrops on the Snares seemed awash with wild life where the Snares Yellow Crested penguins encircled our crafts like a bunch of clowns that were competing for our attention. The Auckland Islands seemed to have everything from a coastline enriched with dazzling array of plant life to the curious sea lions and Yellow Eyed penguins that swam under our kayaks as if we were play things from another planet. Landing our kayaks on Macquarie Island was made difficult as most of the beaches were overrun by the sprawling penguin colonies. Dozens of these penguins swum alongside our kayaks as we paddled along just beyond the breakers. But for me, Campbell Island seemed to have it all. The huge cliffs that overhung the ocean around East Cape, the sea lion colonies we were able to paddle up to and shorelines that were covered in a variety of megaherbs that helped hide the Yellow Eyed penguins and bird life that were nesting along the shoreline. Plus there was quite a lot of European history that we were able to explore. To have been able to kayak within these Islands was a wilderness experience that few people will ever experience. I am just so thankful to have kayaked within the Islands of Sub Antarctic. "

- Max Grant