Macquarie Island Expedition: Galapagos of the Southern Ocean 1 Dec 2019

3 – 15 December 2015

Day One

We left the harbour of mainland New Zealand from the Port of Otago, Dunedin at 10 am. We settled in fairly quickly. There was a 2-3 cm swell running, not perhaps the fiercest introduction to the Southern Ocean, but it did prove that oceans can behave, at least for a time.  We had a leisurely cruise down the harbour in bright sunshine out to the heads with the Royal Albatross colony to our right (starboard for those diehard nautical fanatics who have to obfuscate the simplest terms).  There were a few New Zealand Fur Seals wallowing in suitably slobbery fashion and the pod of dolphins we had booked to serenade our passage was late, but eventually turned up to see us on our way. We then nosed into the Pacific to start our run towards The Snares, hoping to find a bit of shelter to park the ship for a while.

The first lecture deep down on Level 2 went over how best to enter and leave a Zodiac. The dining room floor stayed fairly level for our first lunch – it is always good to have a well behaved dining room to start with, little did we know! We also had a practical introduction on how much fun we could all expect in a lifeboat. The last talk of the day was an introduction to The Snares islands and why such a growly piece of coastline gets so very few visitors. 

The sea conditions were a little rough towards nightfall and the decision was made to head direct for the Auckland Islands with The Snares being impossible to approach, we thus remained hopeful for the way home. The ship was a bit twitchy overnight.

Photo credit: G.Bodo

Day Two

The night was a wee bit bumpy with a fairly vulgar note in the wind and come dawn it was still a wee bit breezy. There was a good turn out at the first breakfast. The simple joy of a day at sea was embraced and there were some great bird sightings throughout the day. We rocked our way south into a south/south-westerly swell and night found us making relatively steady progress with a predawn arrival into blessedly calmer waters. The total distance travelled horizontally (135 miles) was supplemented by around 200 miles simply going up and down and sideways alas, but that sums up sea travel fairly well.

Day Three

Our third day at sea dawned pretty calmly as promised in the quiet waters off Enderby Island. Basalt column cliffs dominated the left side of the. It was relatively calm as we tucked into an early breakfast, with the dining room behaving almost as well as the one at home. After breakfast Rodney gave a lecture on the history of Enderby including the sad failure of the Port Ross township of Hardwick. Although it survived a couple of meagre years it was clearly doomed by lunchtime on day one. The Auckland Islands proved a very popular spot for shipwrecks. They even hosted two shipwrecks at the same time at one stage. One group of survivors manufactured shoe lasts and smelted metal manufacturing tools to build a ship for their own rescue. In the meantime the other group failed to even get a shelter together. We all got ashore mid morning and ambled up to the far side across the boardwalk. At the end of the boardwalk some continued on to explore Derry Castle Reef before returning to the DOC huts, while others enjoyed the good weather and views around the start zone. We then idled off shore enjoying the calm till sleep claimed us.

Photo credit: M.Cawthorne

Day Four

The ship quietly relocated overnight and we awoke in the calm of Carnley Harbour, which more specifically is the collapsed caldera of what was once a fairly productive volcano, a few cones and plugs pointing to its somewhat smoky past. Having finished a peaceful breakfast, we made our way for a quick lecture from Rodney on the Auckland Islands group. Later we nosed around the historic sights such as where the Erlangen crew took out 200 tons of Rata wood, the site of the wreck of the Grafton and New Zealand’s number 2 Coast Watchers base. After 70 odd years of consistent neglect by the New Zealand government, the huts were looking slightly sorrier than the hull remnant of the Grafton. Apparently there was one sighting of an enemy vessel during the entire time of the Coast Watching project. Given that the German navy had abandoned wind powered vessels the previous century, it is hard to fathom why they would have bothered with a massive detour this far south. Perhaps they were feeling guilty and had a Rata replanting scheme in mind! 

We had a pleasant clamber up to the view point with a restored watch hut not yet entirely covered in trees. It was noted that it had been fitted with a little log fire. A few Sea Lions were very keen to join us. It was interesting to see how far they had wandered up the hill and to be fair they did contribute quite well to track maintenance. After a quiet lunch we drifted out to find some more heavy duty wave action for the 350 odd nautical mile sprint down to the eastern outpost of the Australian Empire, aka Macquarie Island. The chefs and waiting staff again did a most superb job of putting food on plates and keeping it there until it was attacked by hungry expeditioners.

Day Five

After some rough morning seas, the ocean calmed down a bit. ‘Millpond’ would be pushing it but it was certainly better than the morning. Evening found us gently rolling along with barely a rock to the ship. There was one brief whale sighting which looked ‘Baleenish’ but the encounter was too brief to be certain which one. A very brief bird recap for the day was held in the bar before dinner and relatively peaceful night. 

Photo credit: R.Sagar

Day Six

We found ourselves gently drawing near to Macquarie Island. This island sits right on the continental divide and hosts more earthquakes than anywhere else in Australia. After breakfast and an introductory lecture the landings started at 9.45am in Buckles Bay, just near the Australian Antarctic Division research station. An impressive symphony of snorts, farts, honks and squeaks from Elephant Seals accompanied us all the way up to the base where we were treated to freshly baked scones. The penguins were suitably curious about the boat loads of new arrivals. The Orcas were more focused on looking for fresh and tender baby Elephant Seals that had just begun to frolic in the surf. The large pots for cooking up Sea Lions and penguins looked suitably rusted and decrepit and were now ironically almost totally surrounded by penguins. We noted that Joseph Hatch (the blubber boiling man) claimed that there were more penguins left there at the end of his project than the start. We were back aboard the Spirit of Enderby eating lunch as we steamed to Lusitania Bay but alas found it immersed in murk and grey so headed back north for another restful night off Buckles Bay.

Day 7

Australian waters were behaving very well with just a gentle rock and not a lot else to greet the morning greyness. Meantime, a good breakfast before we went ashore to Sandy Bay. The baby Elephant Seals didn’t seem to have heard about the 5m rule and several made close attempts to befriend passengers. The Royal and King Penguins were both fairly noisy but with a much smaller symphonic range than the blubbery snot and flatus machines on the beach. The Skuas/louts of the beach were ever watchful for exposed baby penguins but were equally happy savouring anything dead. The rain did eventually pass and one of the crew reported seeing the sun but it didn’t appear to want to dry anything and escaped before the last of us was retrieved back for lunch. We decided to return all the rangers back to their base and head off towards Campbell Island.

Photo credit: R.Sagar

Day 8

At sea.

Day 9

After breakfast the lecture theatre the place to be with a full programme offered for the day. Offerings came from Rachel who discussed the making of a seabird from the evolutionary perspective. Chris then shone some light on marine weather, in part gleaned from his amazing yacht trip across the NW Passage. Martin talked about the Hookers Sea Lion and Elephant Seals and then Rodney gave an outline to Campbell Island to end the day. These presentations and watching out for wildlife consumed a relatively calm day for the Southern Ocean as we cruised north towards Perseverance Harbour, arriving around midnight for a peaceful sleep.

Day 10

It was a beautiful dawn and everyone agreed that the sun was definitely in the sky. The early party left for North West Bay on a fairly good path although a wee bit overgrown with a reasonable grunt up through tussock. We negotiated a path through the middle of a small landslip over to the far cliffs, avoiding the acidic fetid fish oil, the result of projectile vomit from the petrels on one side and the cliff edge on the other.  Then it was time to stop for lunch on the beach, sitting around a trickle of a waterfall while a Leopard Seal lazed below along with a dozen Elephant Seals which were busy yawning, belching with the occasional lifted flipper. After lunch we drifted up to the North West Hut. The last visitor had apparently been over in March this year. Later we crossed up and over the central basin where we mostly managed to avoid the low flying albatross, that swooped by with a very audible ‘whoosh’.  Groups were gadding and gamming around generally and one even deigned to flap a wing in the breeze. We then descended back through the Dracophyllum slalom course to the beach at Camp Cove where the most depressed/loneliest tree in the world (a Sitka Spruce) was shivering with a gleeful Connor, both waving in the wind. Connor had come by Zodiac to deliver us back to the Spirit of Enderby. The rest of the party ascended Col Lyall on the boardwalk to view the albatross who behaved beautifully in the increasing wind with a great deal of activity from 3.30pm onwards giving a behavioural bonanza. Martin ‘flushed out’ a Snipe. With wind rising from the north east, Rodney collected the last of the group from Tucker Cove and we enjoyed dinner and a calm night.

Photo credit: M.Bartlett

Day 11

Sadly the day dawned misty and cloudy decimating the attempt at Mt Honey before it began.  The Zodiac cruisers went from below Beeman Hill down to the base finding a good assortment of seals, teals, shags and a godwit. Some went ashore at Camp Cove for a close up view of the Sitka Spruce.  They then visited at the homestead site inspecting the sole remnant, a stove. With worsening weather and dampening enthusiasm, there was a strong trend back to the ship for lunch. Lunch cued our departure as we patched up and were off for home via The Snares and hopefully a final Zodiac spin. There was lots more bird activity as we went north.

Day 12

The ride was still a bit bumpy as we headed for The Snares. Rodney gave a summary of the evolution of Heritage Expeditions from the early days on the Acheron which carried just 12 passengers to the Spirit of Enderby carrying 50 passengers today. He then gave a hint of his next venture which is once again a 12 passenger vessel but totally different to his first ship. The name of this new vessel will be Strannik which is Russian for ‘pilgrim’. We look forward to hearing more about this new venture and craft. Later we had a sneak preview of film shot by some of the passengers and were impressed by Genevieve’s editing skills in what they said was raw footage. The images took us right back to the stark beauty of the islands we had visited. We were able to cruise in close to The Snares and could see dense clouds of Sooty Shearwaters, sedate Snares Crested Penguins passing and fairly good albatross numbers. A relatively quiet night followed as we headed back to Bluff for breakfast.

Photo credit: R.Sagar

Day 13

Disembarked after breakfast and waved farewell to our new friends. The Southern Ocean had managed to live up to its tempestuous reputation but we had still achieved most of what we set out to do. Thanks to all for their participation and to Captain Dimitri and his crew. Good luck for 2016 and beyond.

Day 1:  3 December 2013
Dunedin

At 9am the bus swept onto the wharf in Dunedin and expeditioners began to board the Spirit of Enderby (aka Professor Khromov) and luggage and cabins were organized. Once aboard most found the deck where entertainment was provided by a pipe band, augmented by a saxophone, piano accordion and singing guitarist.  An addition to the band was one very burly, beautifully socialized and friendly dog belonging to one of the wharf workers. He was obviously accustomed to the wharf-side environment and pranced and gamboled about as the band played a selection of Scottish tunes and some updated medleys. 

At 1000 we slipped our moorings and the Spirit of Enderby, guided by the pilot, proceeded down the channel heading for the open sea. Off the Aramoana Mole the Dunedin pilot boat burbled alongside to collect the pilot waiting on the rope ladder hanging down the ship’s side. With a nimble ‘Zorro-like’ leap the pilot landed on the deck of his vessel and waved us off.  We rounded Tairoa Head where we could see Royal Albatrosses nesting amongst the long grass and soaring over the upper slopes of the Head.  At 1130 we filed down through the ship to the lecture room where Nathan gave his informative introduction to the ship and the staff. 

It was not long before we felt the gentle roll and lift of the open sea. Captain Dimitry Zinchenko set our course for the Subantarctic islands and the voyage began.  Lunch was announced and the chefs produced the first in a series of superb meals which we would enjoy throughout the voyage.

At 1330 we all participated in the mandatory lifeboat drill which precedes every voyage.  As the alarms rang (7 bells followed by one long one) expeditioners donned their life jackets and made their way to the boat deck where all climbed into the bright orange lifeboats.  Conditions in full lifeboats can only be described as ‘intimate’, but what better way to meet your fellow travellers?  Passengers were advised that the boats contain food and water for a full complement for about 6 days. “Excuse me” said one querulous voice, “but where do we go to the bathroom?”  In the afternoon Nathan gave his introductory lecture on the use of the Zodiac inflatables and followed that with an illustrated introduction to the Snares Islands, our first destination.

Conditions for our first day at sea were superb. A light northwesterly wind and sea followed us as we made our way south past Saddle Hill, the Catlins coast, Murderers Bay and Nugget Point. The evening meal was excellent and the sunset beautiful as we sailed south along the east coast of Stewart Island. 


Departing Otago Harbour.  Photo credit: A.Breniere

Day 2:  4 December 2013
Snares Islands

Weather forecast: Northerlies 15-20kts freshening to 40-45kts in the afternoon, swell from north at 2-3m. Sea conditions moved from benign to decidedly more malignant overnight and the run on sick bags was like the New Year sales.

0730 Breakfast was attended by a few hearty stalwarts and a parade of pale faces who had to rapidly learn the art of eating cereals without spilling the milk.

During the morning Samuel and Martin were on the bridge birding and whale watching respectively. Samuel saw our first Mottled Petrel of the trip and some Sooty Shearwaters.  Martin saw three whale blows but the height of the swell and the wind speed prevented identification. As we travelled south, moving out of the lee of Stewart Island, conditions became increasingly rough. Nathan decided it was too rough for the planned Zodiac cruise of the Snares Islands and the ship would travel as close as possible to the islands to allow passengers a relatively close look instead.  Wisely, in deference to the tender state of many of the passengers and aware that in rolling conditions sitting in the lecture room is akin to being inside a galloping cow’s stomach, Nathan postponed the mid-afternoon lecture.  Meanwhile the super-keen bird watchers were out on deck while other passengers popped in and out the doors to get some fresh air.  At 1620 a pod of 6 Common Dolphins was seen 15-20m off the port side. Among the birds seen were Wandering, Royal and Salvin’s Albatrosses, Black Bellied Storm Petrels, White-chinned and Giant Petrels and a Thin-billed Prion.  

The wet aft-deck is particularly slippery in a heavy roll as one of our number discovered when he fell onto his back and shot towards the gate where, fortunately, he prevented himself from being the first man-overboard with a well placed foot on the superstructure. During this caper his grandson stood aghast, mouth open, clutching his camera – but no photos. What a missed opportunity!  Up on the port side 400 level, another passenger, unused to the roll, inadvertently toppled out through the open door onto the deck among the legs of those lining the rail. One of the staff got her upright and back inside, shaken but not bent. Some minutes later she took another tumble and fell down the stairs tragically breaking her femur in the process.  Dr Sam, an A&E expert, rapidly attended to her in the ship’s hospital and made her as comfy as possible for the overnight run back to Port Pegasus, Stewart Island, while Nathan arranged for her to be helicoptered off the ship the next morning and taken to Kew Hospital in Invercargill.

The meals today were again excellent even though they were prepared under very trying conditions by chefs Bruce and Dean.  What a shame 31 crème caramels remained uneaten. The “Mal de Mer” won again!


Snares Islands.  Photo credit: S.Blanc

Day 3:  5 December 2013
Stewart Island

After breakfast in the sheltered, bush-clad calm of Port Pegasus, one of New Zealand’s most beautiful natural harbours, Martin gave a comprehensive introductory talk on the Hooker’s (New Zealand) Sea Lion which we were to encounter in coming days at Sandy Bay, Enderby Island. At about 1000 our unfortunate patient was taken by Zodiac into North Arm at Port Pegasus where she was uplifted and flown by helicopter to Invercargill for further treatment. As soon as Nathan returned, the Zodiac was loaded and secured and Captain Dimitry resumed our course south to Enderby Island.

After lunch, Samuel gave an introductory talk on sea birds of the region illustrated with some exceptional photographs.  At 1530 everyone went to the Bar/Library where the DOC rep, Kirsten Ralph, was overseeing the important task of cleaning and vacuuming all packs and walking gear to be taken ashore of any vegetable matter to prevent the accidental introduction of alien seeds to at Enderby Island.

The last talk of the day was Nathan’s fascinating introduction to the Auckland Islands.  He covered the geological history, sealing, settlement, the shipwrecks, farming, the wartime activities of the ‘Cape Expedition’ coast watchers and finally, the implementation of reserve status and removal of feral animals.

Day 4:  6 December 2013  
Auckland Islands - Enderby Island

At 0430 the Spirit of Enderby dropped anchor about 500m offshore from Sandy Bay, the location of the second largest breeding rookery of New Zealand Sea Lions.  The weather was not quite what we’d hoped as thick sea fog blanketed the island and driving mist promised a soggy walk around the coast.

After breakfast, the chefs, Bruce and Dean, assisted expeditioners to assemble their packed lunches and by 1000 all passengers going ashore had been landed at the convenient gap in the rock platform west of the beach.  We all walked in single file past the massive bachelor male sea lions guarding their territories in anticipation of the arrival of the females coming ashore to pup in about 7 days and climbed up to the historic boatshed erected in 1888 by the crew of the NZ government vessel “Stella”. Life jackets and gumboots were stored there in bins from the ship and we then made our way across the sward past the restored Stella Hut (built in 1880) to the boardwalk crossing Enderby Island to the northern cliffs. The boardwalk snakes its way through the wind-sculpted Rata forest where we saw Red-fronted Parakeets (“Kakariki”) and out into the open where we walked among wind-shorn Rata bushes with crimson new growth and aromatic Cassinia bushes to the top of the island (elevation about 30-35m asl). At that point, those who wished to continue the walk eastward around the island set off with some of the expedition team, while those content to botanise and spend more time in the Sandy Bay area were free to return to Sandy bay and the Sea Lions under the watchful eye of Arthur.  

As time was limited the walkers set a fast pace and despite the awful conditions, managed to see Light-mantled Sooty Albatrosses soaring through the murk, Red-billed Gulls, Auckland Island Shags, Skuas, Black-backed Gulls, Giant Petrels, Red Polls, Pipits, Red-crowned Parakeets , Flightless Teal and Yellow Eyed Penguins. The walkers returned to Sandy Bay between 1430 and 1500.  There was little activity among Sea Lions on the beach where only 4 females and one stillborn pup were present. 

Everyone was back on board the ship by 1645 when the anchor was lifted and we left Sandy Bay. Captain Dimitry ran a course south in the lee of Auckland Island in oily, foggy calm, so we could dine in relative comfort. At 2130 we cleared the lee of Auckland and Adams Islands and rolled our way across the westerly swells south west to Macquarie Island, 360 nautical miles (and 1.5 days) away.


Yellow Eyed Penguins.  Photo credit: L.McKenzie

Day 5:  7 December 2013
At Sea enroute to Macquarie Island

Throughout the night and in the early morning, despite the 20kt southerly wind and a 2m swell on the port quarter, we maintained a brisk speed of 11-11.5kts en route to Macquarie Island. As the Southern Ocean would have it, by 1000 our speed was reduced to 9kts with rising sea and wind.  A few albatrosses and prions followed the ship but the hardy birders on deck reported nothing unusual.

In the late morning Samuel gave a superb lecture on penguins, demonstrating once again his profound knowledge of his subject and his ability as an excellent photographer. Lunch was a perfect lasagne produced by Bruce and Dean under tricky conditions in the galley where the ship’s roll caused anything unsecured to levitate and fly about the stove, ovens and benches.

Just after 1415 Duade spotted 2 sperm whales at 53°10’S 161° 50’E.  Fifteen minutes later, Martin gave a repeat of his lecture on Hooker’s Sea Lions for the benefit of those who missed it the first time around.  The lecture was well attended, despite the roll, probably because of group’s recent experience of these animals on Enderby Island. By and large, this was a day when people either stayed on their bunks or in the Bar/Library reading, playing cards, editing photographs or just socializing.  However, as might be expected, a small coterie of hardy birders made it out on deck looking for those ‘life list’ sightings or the one remaining species they haven’t seen.

Our speed had been reduced to 9kts and once again the chefs gave us a hard choice, Blue Cod fillets or Short Ribs.  When conditions are difficult for the chefs the staff usually help out in the galley. Tonight Martin was the fish cook.

2130 Our speed had risen to 10.8-11.2kts and we had a little over 50nm to run to Macquarie Island with an ETA around 2am. 

Day 6:  8 December 2013
Macquarie Island - ANARE Station at Buckles Bay and Sandy Bay 

Soon after 0200 we dropped anchor in Buckles Bay, Macquarie Island. The motion ceased and all aboard dropped into a deep and restful sleep in preparation for a busy day ahead.  After the miserable conditions at Enderby Island and on the way to Macquarie Island, one could be forgiven for thinking the weather was not going to improve much.  How wrong you can be. The morning was sunny and clear and in the lee of the island the westerly wind was hardly apparent. A pod of Orca patrolled the water just off the beach followed by hopeful Giant Petrels and Skuas.

After Nathan’s comprehensive introduction to Macquarie Island we all prepared for a much anticipated landing. Martin and Arthur went ashore first with Nathan to act as boat ‘grabbers’ at the landing and by 1000 all passengers were ashore enjoying close encounters with King, Gentoo and Royal penguins, the predominantly white Southern Giant Petrels and Elephant Seal weaners about 2 months old.  Our party was split into groups, each accompanied by one of the efficient TASPAWS (Tasmanian Parks and Wildlife Service) rangers.  One group climbed to the lookout platform from where you get a panoramic view of Buckles Bay on the eastern side, Hassleborough Bay on the west, and along The Neck to the Base Station where most of the inhabitants of Macquarie Island do their work. Another group was down on the beach photographing.  We made our way along Hassleborough Bay beach to the balloon shed where the meteorologist explained the workings of a hydrogen filled, high-altitude met balloon and the data collecting package it carries. Finally we stopped at the Base mess hall where the hospitality and quality of the scones is legendary (for all you bakers, lemonade is the secret raising agent) and the tea and coffee come just at the right time. Passports were stamped with the Macquarie Island ‘visa’ by the ‘postmaster’. For one of our number this visit to the Macquarie Base had special significance. Graham Lodwick was a physicist here 50 years ago to the day and found the group photo on the wall to verify it. Back at the landing, we farewelled our Macquarie wildlife Ranger escorts and boarded the Zodiacs, which made a brief run past the Rockhopper Penguin rookery on the way back to the ship for lunch.

At 1530 the weather was holding but the accumulation of high cirrus and other clouds suggested a northerly change was on its way. Captain Dimitry lifted the anchor in Buckles Bay and steamed south along the coast to Sandy Bay where all were landed for a three hour walkabout among the Royal and King Penguins and the Elephant Seals.  Here all the animals and birds are fearless and inquisitive.  Penguins would nibble at boots and clothing, while Elephant Seals were accepting and playful. After first investigating Dr Sam, who was lying prone on the beach, an Elephant Seal pup licked his face, then crawled up onto his back and went to sleep! Sam had to record this or nobody back in Lyttelton would believe him.  He passed his camera to Martin who took the shot, handed the camera back and walked away laughing, leaving Sam to work out how to get out from beneath the affectionate, and fairly hefty youngster.

After 3 hours ashore, our group and rangers were shuttled back to the Spirit of Enderby which, by this time, was rising and falling 1.0m – 1.25m on the increasing swells. Transfers from Zodiacs to the gangway were tricky but everyone managed to board safely, thanks to some timely ‘strong arming’ by the Bosun Yuri and one of the Russian crew. We steamed back to Buckles Bay in an increasing northerly wind and swell to drop the rangers at the Base. Local safety rules require that we have two Zodiacs in the water at any one time, and perhaps that is just as well. Nearing the landing, we noticed a big (8-9m) male Orca with an exceptionally large dorsal fin, patrolling the kelp edge close to the beach. He was on the lookout for a tasty young Elephant Seal yearling. We waited until he had cleared the area, then quickly dropped the rangers at the beach and made our way back to the ship. The Zodiacs were craned aboard and lashed down at the end of a great day ashore. It is a rare occasion indeed when you can get excellent weather on Macquarie Island which allows excursions at both Buckles Bay and Sandy Bay in one day. Bruce and Dean produced yet another superb dinner and the Captain steered us slowly southward in the lee of the island towards Lusitania Bay, the site of a huge King Penguin rookery.


Sandy Bay, Macquarie Island.  Photo credit: S.Blanc

Day 7:  9 December 2013
Macquarie Island - Attempt at Lusitania Bay and enroute to Campbell Island

Lusitania Bay, the site of Joseph Hatch’s infamous (failed) 1899 penguin oiling venture, was hidden from view by sea fog driven by a stiff northerly wind.  Given our tight schedule, there was no point in hanging about so the Captain set a course for Campbell Island.  The wind on our beam and the westerly swells on the port quarter promised a rolly trip.   Breakfast was marked by human cannonballs with plates of food lurching about the restaurant.  Fortunately nobody was hurt.

In the galley where Bruce was preparing lunch it was like a war zone, with the air punctuated by bangs and curses. Bruce was showered with spices and black pepper corns which rolled about the deck making walking interesting.  Dean made repeated trips to the hold for lunch ingredients emerging with terse comments such as, “it’s carnage down there mate”.  But, as usual, Bruce and Dean put out an excellent lunch for those passengers who were brave enough to come to the dining room. The food would never have made it onto the tables without the athleticism and extraordinary balancing skills of Natalia, the Chief Stewardess and Zoya her assistant. Despite the conditions, these two never dropped a plate, were always cheerful and somehow always knew where vertical was.   

In the afternoon a visitor to the galley would have seen Dr Sam, his Hobbit feet dusted white with flour, sitting watching the bread mixer as it prepared the dough for the naan bread to accompany the curry at dinnertime.  The clingfilm-covered dough was left to prove in a large roasting pan in the warmth of the galley.  As the afternoon wore on the dough rose and rose and showed signs of escaping from under or, exploding from its clingfilm bonds. It was rapidly punched down and Sam and Martin spent the rest of the afternoon rolling the naan bread which Sam cooked for the evening meal.

Day 8:  10 December 2013 
Enroute to Campbell Island

At sea en route for Campbell Island.  Course 075°, wind 040°, 20 - 30 kts.  Swells 3m.  Rough.  In the words of the Chief Mate Evgenii (Zhenia), “Is very good weather for this place”. Nathan decided there would be two lectures in the morning, by Samuel and Martin respectively.  In the afternoon, Agnès opened her ‘Sea shop’ and trade was brisk as usual.  Later, Nathan gave his introduction to Campbell Island.  He then asked for a show of hands of all those interested in walking across the island to Northwest Bay and back.  The remainder elected to walk to Col Lyall.

After a very rough, rolly and sleepless night (the ship was rolling up to 30° each way) Campbell Island appeared through the murk at about 1830.  About 30 minutes later we entered the calm of Perserverance Harbour.  The air was cold and rain showers came scudding down the harbour from the northwest.  We passed Davis Point on the northern side of the harbour entrance and Martin made repeated counts of the Sea Lions hauled out at what is the largest rookery on Campbell Island. 

Davis Point rookery:   Males 42 (incl 3 harem bulls); Females 30, Pups 1

About ½ mile further into the harbour, on the south side, is the euphemistically named Paradise Point where Sea Lions have bred in the past. Because of the nature of the terrain here – a 25-30° peat and tussock slope dropping to a 2.5m cliff with rain pools at the waters edge – pup mortalities have been very high in past seasons.

Paradise Point rookery: Males 3-4; Females 1. Pups 0

At about 1930 we dropped anchor off the meteorological station (Beeman Base).


At Sea.  Photo credit: S.Blanc

Day 9:  11 December 2013
Campbell Island

After breakfast Nathan and the Northwest Bay walkers were dropped ashore at 0930 to begin their trek across the island.  The weather looked alright at this time but we knew it could change quickly.  One hour later, Samuel and Martin began landing passengers at the base before setting off for Col Lyall.  The wind was gusting strongly and the rain began slashing down driven by the strong northwest wind.  Agnès, Samuel and Arthur led off with the main group while Dr Sam and Martin helped Joan along the boardwalk.  Joan made steady progress, stopping frequently to admire the plants (she trained as a botanist) and the views, which she said were “so much better than looking at my feet all day”. The sleety rain, low cloud and strong, gusty wind made for a cold, wet walk. As the first Zodiac back to the ship was at 1300, people started down soon after reaching the Col Lyall saddle.  Although there were a few albatrosses sitting in the shelter of tussocks or on nests in the vicinity of the saddle no displays had taken place.  Sam, Joan and Martin had a late lunch in the shelter of the huge tussocks as albatrosses ghosted out of the murk, wings whooshing in the wind barely 4-5m above ground.  Fifteen minutes later the cloud and mist lifted a little and a full changeover display occurred – just what Joan and Michelle had wanted to see. We set off back down the boardwalk for the base and 2 ½ hours later Samuel came and picked us up.  Joan, complete with sticks, was craned aboard in the Zodiac, ending a very creditable day for this remarkable 84 year old ex-Himalayan climber.  The Northwest Bay walkers had returned after a tough but rewarding walk with stunning views when the weather permitted.   Notable observations today were Campbell Island Teal, Hooker’s Sea Lions and young Elephant Seals around the landing, Snipe up the boardwalk and of course, Southern Royal Albatrosses. Along the boardwalk the prickly shield fern Polystichum vestitum and the water fern Histiopteris incisa were common, mosses are everywhere and spectacular lichens cling to the trunks of the grass trees Dracophyllum longifolium and D.scoparium. 

Up around Col Lyall, three species of the megaherb daisies Pleurophyllum were common as were the two large relatives of carrots Anisotome latifolia  and A.antipoda.  The iconic Subantarctic yellow flowering lily Bulbinella rossi, the gentian Gentiana antarctica is endemic to Campbell Island as is the beautiful blue flowered hebe  H.benthamii found next to the boardwalk.

The animated chatter over dinner was the best indication of a good day’s activities.

Southern Royal Albatross, Campbell Island.  Photo credit: A.Breniere

Day 10:  12 December 2013
Campbell Island

Three activities were planned for the morning before our departure at about 1230:

Mt Honey walk, Zodiac cruise, a return to the Mt Lyall boardwalk for those who missed out yesterday.

At 0530, the 13 Mt Honey (569m) climbers, accompanied by Samuel and Dr Sam were dropped at their departure point at the eastern end of Garden Cove.  At about 0620 an amazing phenomenon occurred in Perseverance Harbour, a blinding sunrise in a largely clear sky! At 0840 Nathan briefed everybody opting for the Zodiac cruise and Col Lyall.

At 1030 the cruise and Col Lyall groups boarded the Zodiacs and were away. The walkers were landed at Beeman Base and the Zodiac cruisers with Agnès, Nathan and Martin set off around the head of Perserverance Harbour visiting Tucker Cove and the farm site, the ‘loneliest tree in the world’ at Camp Cove, and Garden Cove.  As usual the wind got up and blew strongly around Beeman Hill with great willwaws ripping towers of spray off the sea and raising an ugly chop – just when the Zodiac drivers had to land their passengers back on the ship.  Martin collected the Col Lyall walkers while Agnès and Nathan brought Samuel, Dr Sam and the Mt Honey climbers back aboard without incident.

Captain Dimitry lifted the anchor at about 1230 and we sailed up the east coast of Campbell Island so all aboard could have lunch in relative comfort before setting our course for the Snares Islands, about 30 hrs steam away.


View from Mount Honey, Campbell Island.  Photo credit: S.Blanc

Day 11:  13 December 2013 
Enroute to Snares Islands

Both the lectures and Nathan’s briefing re disembarkation procedure were cancelled due to the rough conditions encountered as we push into a strong northerly wind and a beam sea. Nevertheless, we were making a good 11.3kts and our ETA at the Snares was 1530.

0830 Position:  49°07’S 167° 11’E.   1 fin whale crossed the bow from starboard to port.

At 1530 we hove to in South Bay. A heavy swell was running with a wind chop over the top.   Two Zodiacs were dropped, with Nathan and Sam in one, Samuel and Martin in the other. The boats proceeded out through the passage between the islands on the eastern side of the bay heading up the coast for the biological station where four ornithologists, who have been working on the islands for 14 days, were picked up for return to New Zealand.

In the Bar/Library before dinner Nathan gave his disembarkation briefing. He was followed by Samuel who presented a superb chronological slide show of the trip he and Agnès had prepared.  This was made available free to any passengers either on a memory stick or DVD.

This evening, under very trying conditions, Bruce and Dean excelled themselves in the galley preparing a special end of cruise buffet of roast lamb, ham, prawns, mussels, salmon, salads, potatoes, kumara and vegetables. For dessert there was a selection of crème caramel, meringue baskets with mascarpone, raspberries and cream. It was the perfect fare to complement a similar trip.


Photo credit: A.Breniere

Day 12:  14 December 2013
Port of Bluff

At 0630 on a sunny Bluff morning we were slowly making our way to the pilot station. 

The pilot boarded at 0700 and 30 minutes later the Spirit of Enderby was secured alongside. It was sad to see all the corridors lined with baggage as we prepared to disembark. Customs and Immigration and biosecurity officers come aboard and, in no time we were cleared for landing.  A short time later we had boarded the bus for the airport or town centre taking with us new memories, new friendships and memory cards stuffed with unforgettable images.  Our adventure was at an end.