2071: In the Wake of Scott & Shackleton 10 January 2020
© J. Bozinov
Day 1: Friday 10th January
Arrival in Invercargill
Travelling from countries near and far, we made our way to Invercargill, the southernmost city in New Zealand. To the Ascot Park Hotel, where we enjoyed a relaxing afternoon, catching up on sleep (jetlag!) or exploring the town. Then we gathered for our first dinner together where we met our Expedition Leader, Nathan Russ, as well our Hotel Manager, Rosie, our expedition medic, Dr Heather, and our NZ Department of Conservation (DoC) representative, Fiona. Our last night on land before the expedition begins!
Day 2: Saturday 11th January
Excursion to Curio Bay, The Catlins, Southland & embarkation
After breakfast at the hotel, we were met in the foyer by Merel, one of our expedition team. With the help of several Russian crew, she checked us in and arranged for our luggage to be sent ahead to the ship which is docked down in the Port of Bluff. Then it was off in the bus to visit Curio Bay in The Catlin region of Southland, about an hour’s drive east of Invercargill.
This beautiful little spot (also known as “Curioscape”) features a broad rocky beach platform on which the fossilized remains of an ancient forest are visible at low tide. We had timed our visit perfectly - right on low tide so all the platform was exposed. Plenty of time to explore the ‘forest’ and the many intriguing rock pools. There is also a small colony of Yellow-eyed Penguins here, which breed in amongst the thick clumps of flax on the shore. Sadly these mainland birds are not doing that well right now. This is likely due to warming seas which have forced the penguins to go out a lot further than normal to find enough food for their hungry chicks. The best time to see these penguins is at dusk and dawn when they come in from the ocean to visit their burrows. Although the penguins were out at sea, we did see a young male New Zealand (Long-Nosed) Fur Seal hauled out on the rocks. There is a breeding colony of these seals further along the coast. And only a few minutes from Curio Bay is Porpoise Bay, where Hector’s Dolphins can sometimes be seen. No good sightings of dolphins today but it is a lovely place nonetheless!
From Curio Bay, it was back on the bus for a short drive to the Niagara Falls Café for lunch. This part of Southland is known for its beautiful waterfalls, and the café takes its name from one of them. Unfortunately we had no time to visit these falls today. With so many great things to see in Southland, many of us are making plans for a return visit! By bus back to Invercargill through quiet rural landscapes dominated by gentle green hills studded with fluffy white sheep: the quintessential image of New Zealand. A brief stop at the Ascot Park Hotel to pick up last passengers and bags, and then it was off to Bluff to board our ship.
At the port, we were welcomed onboard the good ship, Spirit of Enderby, by Nathan our Expedition Leader. Small but very sturdy, this will be our new home for the next month. Boarding the vessel, we headed straight up to the bridge to clear New Zealand Customs. Then it was off to find our cabins and start unpacking. Soon after, we trooped down into the lecture room to meet our expedition team and Chefs. There were also important briefings about ship safety and Zodiac operations. Then we had our mandatory abandon ship lifeboat drill. While such an emergency is extremely unlikely, it is so good to practice this. We even got into the big orange lifeboats to feel what it was like. Sardines! Then a bit more unpacking and time to relax in the bar before dinner. Due to the strong winds and rough seas outside the harbour, our departure had been delayed by a few hours so we could eat in peaceful calm. Finally it was time to batten the hatches and we were off, across Foveaux Strait, past Steward Island/Rakiura and beyond, heading for the northern part of the Auckland Islands group. The conditions are a bit too wild to visit The Snares at the moment, so we’re leaving them for our return trip when we hope things will be calmer.
Day 3: Sunday 12th January
At sea heading for the Auckland Islands
And a rocking and rolling sort of day it was! Many of us spent the time in our bunks snoozing the hours away. Seasickness medications were in high demand. All in all though, we managed the challenging conditions quite well. For those gallant souls who ventured up to the bridge, there were great views of the wild Southern Ocean with occasional albatross who of course love these wild and stormy conditions.
Day 4: Monday 13th January
Enderby Island, northern Auckland Islands
We arrived in the sheltered harbour of Port Ross, at the northern end of the Auckland Islands group, in the early hours of the morning and gained a welcome respite from the wild seas. A late breakfast to allow us all to catch up on a bit of sleep, and then it was down to the lecture theatre for an Introduction to the Auckland Islands and Biosecurity Screening. We don’t want to introduce any weeds to these largely unspoilt islands!
Before we knew it, we were getting into the Zodiacs for the short ride to Sandy Bay on Enderby Island. As we approached, we could see a good number of New Zealand (Hooker’s) Sea Lions hauled out on the beach, as well a number of Yellow-eyed Penguins and Brown Skuas. We landed on a rocky platform, garlanded with thick fronds of giant kelp which swirled to-and-fro with the waves. The sharp-eyed among us saw several Auckland Island Teal here; a small, flightless, dabbling duck endemic to these islands. Just around the corner, there was a little cluster of huts. This was where we stored our lifejackets and gumboots while out on our walks. The first of these huts was built in the late 1800s to serve as a food depot for castaways. Additional huts were later built as accommodation - for Coastwatchers in World War II and for scientific teams.
Splitting into two groups, some of us opted for an easier walk up the nearby boardwalk with more time for photography and quiet contemplation, while others joined the long walk around the island. Both groups saw some great wildlife. Enderby Island is one of the main breeding areas for Hooker’s Sea Lions. You had to keep a good look out for young males snoozing in amongst the tussock grass. These guys are just not big enough yet to compete with the big boys and secure their own harem of females. As a result, they are not always in the best of moods. Maybe next year they’ll be the lucky ones!
Today was also our first encounter with the famous subantarctic megaherbs. This term was coined by the botanist Joseph Hooker who visited these islands with the James Clark Ross’ Expedition in 1840 to describe the strange giant, herbs (i.e. non-woody plants) with massive leaves and flowers that he found here. The two megaherbs that stood out for us today on Enderby were the Anisotome (aka Campbell Island Carrot) with its fern like leaves and clusters of pale purple flowers, and the Stilbocarpa (aka Macquarie Island Cabbage) with its huge round leaves and clusters of pale yellow-green flowers. Around the end of the boardwalk, there were also dense fields of Bulbinella (Ross’ Lily) which had mostly gone to seed. Earlier in the summer, these lilies have bright yellow clusters of flowers, that look like large candles. Another species that left its mark was Acaena (biddi-bids or buzzy wuzzies) with little pompom balls of sticky seeds that attached themselves to all parts of our clothing. And in amongst the thick clumps of tussock grass there were little gentian flowers.
Another key feature of Enderby Island was the beautiful gnarled and twisted forest of Southern Rata trees with their delightful red flowers. This enchanted place was filled with the song of Tuis, Bellbirds, Auckland Island Tomtits, and Red-crowned Parrots. At the forest’s edge, some of us were also lucky enough to see the flightless Auckland Islands Snipe. With the recent eradication of feral mammals, these snipe and other ground nesting birds are slowly starting to recover.
Other birdlife of note included Southern Royal Albatross nesting along the boardwalk, Light-mantled Sooty Albatross nesting on ledges on the cliffs, and Northern Giant Petrels. The long walkers stopped by North East Cape for great views of a colony of Auckland Island Shags. There were occasional Yellow-eyed Penguins too. Unlike their cousins, these penguins tend to be quite solitary and do not nest together in dense colonies.
What a day this was! With our packed lunches, we had plenty of time to explore this fantastic island. No need to rush back to the ship. The conditions were just beautiful, dry all day and quite a bit of sunshine too; all quite rare in this part of the world.
© J. Bozinov
© J. Bozinov
© J. Bozinov
Day 5: Tuesday 14th January
Musgrave Inlet and Carnley Harbour, Auckland Islands
This morning saw us in beautiful Musgrave Inlet on the eastern side of Auckland Island itself. The clouds hung low, but the prominent volcanic plug known as Chapel Rock was still visible, crowning the hills to the south. After breakfast, we all hopped into the Zodiacs and set off to cruise the bay. First we headed to the northern shore to visit the Eastern Rockhopper Penguins which nest among the boulders here. These are the smallest of the crested penguins and looked very dapper with their yellow “eyebrow” feathers and crisp black and white plumage. Several small groups were gathered on the rocks in preparation for a long foraging swim, and there was at least one Hooker’s Sea Lion lurking around our Zodiacs in anticipation. There is a lot of bull kelp on the rocks here too, and the Zodiac drivers had to pay close attention to avoid fouling their props.
Then we zoomed over to the southern shore where some amazing surprises awaited. First we all passed through a rocky archway to enter a large amphitheatre of stone, fringed with Rata forest and open to the sky. Huge green stalactites, moulded from tree roots and moss, hung down from above. What a magnificent place! Then, right next door, there was a deep sea-cave that was big enough to allow our Zodiacs to cruise through right to the end, a distance of about 50m or so. Incredible!
As a finale for the morning, we made a windy run up to the head of Musgrave Inlet and all piled out on the shore. Then, led by Nathan, we walked through a labyrinthine forest of Southern Rata trees to see beautiful Hinemoa Lake, becoming somewhat “geographically challenged” several times in the process. Although there is an official track of sorts (as evidenced by occasional red metal tags nailed to trees), very few people ever come here. Then it was into the Zodiacs once more to go back to the ship. A sudden surge in wind and waves made the actual getting back onto the ship from the Zodiacs a bit more of a challenge, but that’s all part of the adventure.
After a well-earned hot lunch, we enjoyed a ship’s cruise of nearby Carnley Harbour. This long body of water is formed by the southern coast of Auckland Island and the northern coast of Adams Island. Although the clouds and mist obscured much of the land, there were plenty of other things to see. Dense flocks of Sooty Shearwaters were feeding, forming dark swirling clouds close to the water, as well as rafts on the water itself. There were also several Gibson’s Wandering Albatross about. They nest on Adams Island, which is the largest predator-free island in the Auckland Islands group - so critical for ground-nesting birds like these. There is a lot of history around Carnley Harbour too, including the wreck of the Grafton in 1864 (the survivors lived here for over a year before self-rescuing in a small boat they had built and sailing to Stewart Island), and the Coastwatcher Station during World War II.
Finally we turned around and made our way back to the entrance of the harbour. Now we continue south, leaving the Auckland Islands and heading for the open sea. Next stop, Macquarie Island - but not for another 30 hours or so! Time to lash down and stow all loose objects in our cabins. Conditions are likely to be calmer than on our way down to the Auckland Islands, but it is good to be prepared. As we settled back into the motion of the ocean, Steve gave us an excellent presentation about how to identify seabirds. Some very good information which we know is going to come in very handy indeed on these big open ocean crossings.
Day 6: Wednesday 15th January
At sea heading for Macquarie Island
A quiet day at sea with relatively calm conditions and a good opportunity to spend time out on deck or on the bridge watching for birds and cetaceans (whales and dolphins).
After breakfast, Merel gave us a presentation about the plants of the subantarctic islands, with emphasis on island biogeography and the processes by which new islands become colonised by plants and animals. Then it was time for another Biosecurity Screening. We don’t want to take any seeds that we may have picked up at the Auckland Islands onto Macquarie Island. Very careful checking of clothing and boots was required. Some of those seeds are very determined to get spread to new islands! While the other subantarctic islands are part of New Zealand, Macquarie Island is part of Australia and is managed by Tasmanian Parks and Wildlife.
After lunch, we enjoyed a relaxing afternoon, including a presentation by Josh Holko on Antarctic photography tips. Later, Nathan gave us an introduction to Macquarie Island and told us about the plan for tomorrow. The forecast looks good! Macquarie (aka “Macca”), here we come!
Day 7: Thursday 16th January
Sandy Bay and Buckles Bay, Macquarie Island
This morning saw us off the coast of Macquarie Island in “atmospheric” weather (i.e. low cloud, very misty, drizzly), but happily without too much wind. Nathan, our EL, zipped out by Zodiac just after breakfast to pick up the Macquarie Island rangers from their station at Buckles Bay, near the northern point of the island. While the ship repositioned a little way south to Sandy Bay, the rangers gave us a short briefing on regulations and expectations.
Then it was into the Zodiacs for our landing at Sandy Bay. What an incredible spot! We quickly ran out of superlatives to describe the magic of this place. There were elephant seals lying in big blubbery heaps on the beach, making loud snorting-farting-burping sounds as they rearranged themselves and sparked off minor altercations. Sub adult males were practicing their sparring, and juveniles gazed at us with limpid trout pool eyes. Several were intrigued by the big black plastic barrels we had with us and came over to have a closer look. These elephant seals will spend about 2 – 3 weeks on shore as they go through their annual moult.
There were also two species of penguins: the large King Penguins which breed on several subantarctic islands including Macquarie, are second only to Emperor Penguins in size, and look quite similar (same genus, Aptenodytes); and, the smaller Royal Penguins, which breed only on Macquarie Island and nowhere else. These are the largest of the Crested Penguins (genus Eudyptes) and flaunted big bushy clusters of yellow feathers on their heads. Both species of penguins could be seen down on the beach, heading off to sea to feed or coming back to shore after time at sea. Some King Penguins were also standing around in groups and moulting. This takes several weeks, during which they cannot go to sea due to a lack of waterproofing feathers. It was wonderful to be able to just sit on the beach, watch the wildlife, and have curious penguins come to us. There was also a boardwalk path leading up to a viewing platform for the Royal Penguin colony which is up on a hill. What a racket! There may be up to 40,000 penguins nesting here at any one time.
Happily, all cats, rats, mice, and rabbits have now been eradicated from the island after several years of intensive baiting, hunting, and the release of calicivirus disease (targeting rabbits). Macquarie Island is now completely pest free and therefore safe for ground nesting birds. So important! It was also great to see the before and after photos of how the vegetation is regenerating now that the rabbits are gone. All was looking very lush during our visit, with big grassy tussock hummocks right behind the beach and lots of large Silver Leaf Daisies (Pleurophyllum hookeri) beside the boardwalk near the Royal Penguin colony.
Back to the ship for lunch with glimpses of Killer Whales for some while we repositioned back to Buckles Bay. Then we jumped into the Zodiacs again to see more of Macquarie Island, in guided groups led by the Macquarie Island rangers. The wind dropped and it grew calmer as the afternoon progressed, but the light drizzle was persistent. Air temperature was approx. 7 deg C. The rangers took us to see several places of interest near the base. These included the “historic implements” shed, filled with things found around the island which was first visited by sealing gangs around 1810. There were old “try pots” on display too, in which elephant seals and penguins were rendered down for their oil. Such an awful thought! How wonderful to see the island teaming with wildlife once more. Along a muddy path between tussock hummocks and moulting female elephant seals, and up to a lookout point which was mostly lost in the clouds. We did however get some close fly-bys of Light-Mantled Sooty Albatross and Northern Giant Petrels.
Then down and around to the western side of the narrow spit on which the research station sits. Here we encountered a third species of penguin, the Gentoos, with their little white bonnets and reddy-orange bills. Together with the Adelies and Chinstraps which we hope to see in Antarctica, these guys form the “long-tailed” penguin group (genus Pygoscelis). There were more King Penguins and elephant seals out here too, and a few young fur seals. Ultimately we headed into the station itself for a hot cuppa and some freshly baked scones with jam and cream. Wonderful! Then we had to bid a sad farewell to the rangers and the island to return to the ship. What a day! What a place!
© J. Bozinov
© J. Bozinov
Day 8: Friday 17th January
At sea heading for Antarctica
A calm, quiet day at sea with plenty of time for reflection. After a late breakfast, many of us enjoyed the short documentary about the pest eradication program on Macquarie Island. We then joined the expedition team in the bar for an information “recap” about our experiences yesterday. After lunch, we went through another important biosecurity session to ensure as much as possible that we would not be bringing seeds and other nasties from the subantarctic islands down to the Antarctic continent. At this time we also had a fitting session to determine sizes for the big warm Antarctic jackets that we will be issued for our time in the Ross Sea. At 4:30 pm it was down to the lecture room again to learn about ice maps and our plans for Antarctica from Nathan.
We were free to relax for the rest of the afternoon. For those who spent time out on deck or on the bridge, there were sightings of albatross and prions, and even a short glimpse of Hourglass Dolphins. Overall however there was comparatively little wildlife to be seen in this open section of ocean. After dinner, there was the opportunity to watch the documentary, March of the Penguins, about the lives of the Emperor Penguins that we hope to see in a few days’ time.
Day 9: Saturday 18th January
At sea heading for Antarctica
Another quiet day at sea. The mighty Southern Ocean is being very kind to us. A relatively late breakfast and then a full program of lectures. At 9:30 a.m. John gave us a great presentation full of useful tips about smartphone photography. At 11:15 a.m. Merel provided an introduction to cetaceans, looking at their evolution and adaptations for life at sea. After lunch, Steve presented an interesting lecture about the many different albatross species we might see and have already seen in this part of the world. Later in the afternoon, Maxim gave us a short introduction to the explorers of the “Heroic Age” who ventured down into the Ross Sea area of Antarctica, before showing Part 1 of the series The Last Place on Earth, an historic dramatization about Scott, Shackleton, and Amundsen. There was an interruption about halfway through when Nathan announced that whales had been spotted just in front of the vessel. So we all rushed out on deck to have a look. We were unable to get very close, but it looked like there were three large rorquals out there – most likely Fin or Sei whales based on the size and shape of the blows and the glimpses of dorsal fin that we saw. Then it was either back down to the lecture theatre to watch the rest of the movie, or some extra time up on the bridge just in case more cetaceans appeared. The water temperature is now just under 3 degrees Celsius, so it seems we are near the Antarctic Convergence. Also known as the Polar Front, this is a broad zone of mixing where the cold nutrient rich waters around the Antarctic continent meet with the warmer less nutrient rich waters of the north. The water temperature ultimately drops to less than 2 degrees Celsius as we cross the Convergence. We should start seeing more wildlife from now on!
Day 10: Sunday 19th January
At sea heading for Antarctica
Our third day at sea today and there was definitely quite a bit more to see from the bridge: Light-mantled Sooty Albatross, Black-browed Albatross, a Southern Royal Albatross, Cape Petrels, an Antarctic Petrel, lots of Antarctic Prions, a few Mottled Petrels, and more. We also had several sightings of Humpback Whales, but none stayed around to investigate the ship. We have our fingers crossed for more whale encounters as we continue further south.
This morning, Maxim gave us an interesting presentation about the Borchgrevink Expedition which was the first to overwinter on the Antarctic Continent (1898 – 1900). As part of this endeavour, they were responsible for the first man-made structures in Antarctica; two huts – one for accommodation and one for storing supplies – on Cape Adare. These well-built huts are still standing today. Later in the morning, we had the opportunity to watch Part 2 of the Last Place on Earth. After lunch, Rosie and the team opened the Sea Shop down in the Dining Room, and quite a few of us purchased extra warm layers and gloves in anticipation of our time on the ice. Then around 4 p.m. we crossed the Antarctic Circle at 66 degrees 33 minutes South. From this point onwards, we are in the zone of the midnight sun, where at midsummer, the sun never dips below the horizon. There was much celebration when we crossed this invisible line, but we will delay our official “Crossing the Circle” ceremony until we are further south and in calmer waters. It’s still a bit to wild and windy outside to get us safely out on deck.
Then around 6:30 p.m. we began to see ice on the horizon to the southwest. Before long we were steaming through a band of brash ice and growlers. Our first real ice! Nothing big enough to qualify as a real iceberg yet (official definition for our Spot the First Iceberg Competition is that the ice in question must be bigger than a London double-decker bus) but things are getting very exciting! And for those who stayed up after dinner and went back out on deck, there was some fabulous birding to be had. Dozens of Light-mantled Sooty Albatross and Antarctic Petrels were hanging around the stern of the vessel. And more whales around the ice edge too. Amazing!
Day 11: Monday 20th January
An “Expedition Day” at sea nearing the Antarctic Continent, first iceberg
A special early wake-up call from Nathan this morning around 5 AM on account of passing our first iceberg – definitely a special moment and many of us got up to see it. And a lovely little berg it was too! The winner of our competition is still to be announced. After a bit more sleep, we got up for real in order to have breakfast. Shortly afterwards, there was another special announcement for another first – our first Emperor Penguin! A young bird on an ice floe, not yet in full adult plumage, but a real thrill to see regardless. Then we trooped down to the lecture theatre to listen to three official briefings by Nathan on the IMO Polar Code, the Antarctic Heritage Trust, and IAATO (International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators). Then at 11:45 a.m., we had our crossing the Antarctic Circle ceremony which we had delayed yesterday due to the rough conditions. Now that we are starting to enter the Ross Sea proper and in among the loose pack ice, it is very calm. An inspiring speech from Nathan about our responsibilities as polar ambassadors, some excellent mulled wine prepared by our chef, Bek, and a special “mark of the penguin” stamp on our foreheads. Plus, for a hardy few, a “polar shower” on the bow via the firehose!
After another delicious lunch, we continued our slow cruise southwards, keeping a sharp eye out for seals on ice floes and more penguins as we went. The day grew even calmer and the sun shone through brief gaps in the clouds revealing a truly stunning landscape of water and ice. Late in the afternoon, we changed our course to the south-west and hope to reach Cape Adare early tomorrow morning.
© J. Bozinov
Day 12: Tuesday 21st January
Cape Adare, Ross Sea, Antarctic Continent
Another special early wake-up call this morning in order to enjoy spectacularly calm, sunny conditions, and beautiful views of the Admiralty Range Mountains (Victoria Land) as we approached Cape Adare. The weather in this area is so rarely like this! With skillful manoeuvring by the crew, the ship pushed its way slowly between big slabs of sea ice, through narrow leads, and past several larger tabular bergs, ever closer to Cape Adare. We were hoping to land at Ridley Beach. But, as the ship got nearer, it became clear that there was too much ice around the coast to allow us to do that. Instead, all five Zodiacs were launched, and we headed out to see this spot from the water.
Cape Adare is famous for being the place of the first ever human-built dwellings in Antarctica, dating back to 1899. The late 19th Century saw a growing interest in the Great White Continent, and several countries launched expeditions. One of these was the British Antarctic Expedition, which despite its official name was led and manned by Norwegians, with only three men actually hailing from the British Empire. Back in 1895, the expedition leader, Carsten Borchgrevink, had claimed to be the first person to ever set foot on the Antarctic Continent when he had come south on an exploratory whaling voyage.
In February 1899, Borchgrevink and his nine men of the British Antarctic Expedition landed at Cape Adare and built two huts to live in during the first over winter stay on the Antarctic Continent in human history. Throughout the year they were there, they took weather and magnetic observations, and studied the wildlife and geology of the region. However due to the extreme geography of mountainous Cape Adare, they were limited in how far they could go on their sledging trips and did not make any significant geographic discoveries. Nevertheless, the expedition paved the way for further Antarctic research including the famous expeditions of Scott and Shackleton.
We had excellent views of Borchgrevink’s huts and also of the ice, including many floes with Adelie Penguins. A little further around the cape, we managed to find an ice-free beach, and all came ashore to see the Adelie Penguin rookery – the largest in all of Antarctica (c. 250,000 pairs) – and to set foot on the Antarctic Continent. It was only a short landing due to the constantly moving ice which threatened to block off the beach and our route back to the ship, but what an excellent morning!
After lunch, we continued our ship cruise south, basking in the warm sunshine and marvelling at the magnificent Downshire Cliffs off our starboard side. Late that afternoon, Steve gave us an interesting lecture about penguins. Then Nathan provided an update on our plans over the tannoy. If the conditions were right, we would try to land at the Possession Islands after dinner. Fingers crossed! But as we got closer and closer, we saw that there was too much ice around and the currents (moving ice around) were too strong to land safely – perhaps later in the voyage when we are heading north again. For the moment, we will carry on southwards in glorious sunny conditions.
© J. Bozinov
© J. Bozinov
Day 13: Wednesday 22nd January
Day at Sea in the Ross Sea, heading to Terra Nova Bay
A quiet day at sea heading south. When we awoke this morning there were distant views of land off to the east, but these quickly faded. Open water all around and no ice. Comparatively little wildlife, although we have seen occasional whale blows in the distance. After breakfast, John gave another excellent presentation on photography in the Polar Regions. Then we had Part 3 of The Last Place on Earth. After lunch, Maxim talked to us about the British Discovery Expedition led by Scott (1901 – 1904). It was during this expedition that a number of men who became legends in the Heroic Age of Antarctic Exploration first came south.
In the late afternoon we bumped our way through a thin band of sea ice which provided a lot more opportunities for wildlife. Then after dinner, Nathan called us down to the lecture theatre to tell us about our plans for the night. The weather was good, and this is the land of 24-hour sunshine, and we have to make the most of it! First, around 10 p.m., we landed at Terra Nova Bay on the Antarctic Continent, near the German Gondwana Station. This is a small auxiliary base and only used from time to time. No one was there right now, but this area is really lovely with the volcanic cone of Mount Melbourne looming high on the northern skyline and the big Campbell Glacier coming down into the bay nearby. There is a large colony of South Polar Skuas here too, and we had to keep a good look out for birds dive bombing us in warning if we came too near their camouflaged chicks. With this in mind, we enjoyed a great opportunity for some free wandering around the rocky open area behind the beach and up on the ridge lines on either side for some wonderful views. From the heights we could see the blue buildings of the South Korean Station nearby, as well as the approach of our sister ship, the Akademik Shokalskiy, who are planning to land here after we depart.
Day 14: Thursday 23rd January
Morning at Terra Nova Bay and Inexpressible Island
Back on the ship by 1 a.m. we steamed a bit further south in hope of landing at Inexpressible Island. This is where the six men of the Northern Party of Scott’s Terra Nova Expedition (1910 – 1913) was inadvertently left to fend for themselves over the long bitter Antarctic winter when they were dropped off to do a bit of geology and were then unable to be picked up again due to thick ice moving into the area. Led by Campbell, the group built themselves a snow cave and survived by eating seals and penguins before self-rescuing the following spring by walking 300 miles south to join the others in the hut at Cape Evans. Conditions looked promising for our landing as we approached the coast around 3 a.m., but then the winds began to gust to 50 kph. So we waited and hoped for a change in conditions. Just before 5 a.m. the wind dropped and most of us headed out in the Zodiacs. Once on the island, we followed Maxim on a short walk over an expanse strewn with granite boulders to the site of the Northern Party’s ice cave. Nothing remains here today but a sign commemorating this historic site. Incredible to think of overwintering here without any provisions or real shelter. Those guys were super tough! As a bonus, there were several Weddell Seals on the icy beach nearby, some of the first we have seen. If you kept quiet and listened carefully, you could hear one seal singing softly to itself. Weddell Seals are known to be very vocal underwater but may also sing when hauled out. And there was a small cluster of Adelie Penguins too. Always so cute! Then, with the winds picking up, it was time to go. Into the Zodiacs again and back to the ship. Not a moment too soon as the wind was soon howling across the waves once more. Perfect timing!
Breakfast time while we reposition back to Terra Nova Bay in preparation for a visit to the Italian Mario Zucchelli Station. A quick briefing from Nathan and then we’re off again in stunningly sunny, calm “Italian Riviera” conditions. A very warm reception by the Italians and an interesting tour around their base where up to 90 people may be based during the summer. Right now, it’s busier than usual as the Italians are in the process of building Antarctica’s first solid rock runway (as opposed to ice). When finished, it will be about 2.5 km in length and usher in a new era of air access to this part of Antarctica. While we tour their base, some of the Italians take the opportunity to tour our ship in turn. A nice exchange of hospitality, though their coffee is far superior to ours!
Back on the ship for another excellent lunch (fittingly, it’s spaghetti bolognaise!), and a few hours to catch up on sleep while the ship heads north out of Terra Nova Bay. There was not a cloud in the sky and the weather was almost balmy. Around 5 p.m. we again reached the band of sea ice that we had passed through when coming into this area. The ship pushed its way through, doing a great impersonation of an ice breaker. It was fantastic to stand on the bow and see how the captain skillfully broke apart the ice floes. Again we were treated to some good wildlife viewing, with Adelie Penguins and Crabeater Seals on ice, and a few Minke Whales around the ice edge. There was even a sighting of an Emperor Penguin in adult plumage. Mount Melbourne and the Transantarctic Mountains are glistening in the sunshine on the far horizon, and it’s a spectacular evening! And just before we turned in for the night, there was a small group of Minke Whales quite close to the ship.
© J. Bozinov
Day 15: Friday 24th January
Morning at Franklin Island. Evening at Hut Point near McMurdo Station
A pre-breakfast landing this morning at Franklin Island where there is a large Adelie Penguin colony (c. 70,000 pairs). A lovely long landing in very calm conditions with lots of time to just sit on the beach and watch the antics of the penguins and their fluffy chicks. There were also several Weddell Seals hauled out on the pebble beach, wearing beatific smiles tinged with orange from their recent meals of krill. Although these seals eat mostly Antarctic Cod, most animals in Antarctica will eat at least a bit of krill during the summer boom months.
Back on the ship, we pass Beaufort Island and continue towards Ross Island with its two peaks, Mt Erebus and Mt Terror. This area was first explored by James Clark Ross (1841 – 1843) and he named these volcanoes after his two ships. As we cruise close by Ross Island, we can see Shackleton’s Hut from his Nimrod Expedition (1907 – 1909) at Cape Royds. Unfortunately, the winds are too strong here for us to land, so we continue south towards McMurdo. The large US icebreaker vessel, Polar Star comes into view, and we are allowed to use the channel it has created through the ice of McMurdo Sound (an area named by Ross for Lieutenant Archibald McMurdo of the ship Terror).
As we followed the ice edge, we were thrilled to see at least 30 Ross Sea “Type C” Killer Whales swimming close around the vessel. The skin of these whales is often covered in a thin growth of diatoms (algae) which makes the whales look a bit yellowy in colour. These “Type C” Killer Whales mainly eat large Antarctic Toothfish, but likely also take other prey. Perhaps even more exciting, we found an Emperor Penguin in adult plumage standing right on the edge of the ice. Great manoeuvring by our captain to get the ship in perfect position for some excellent photos. There was a vast expanse of sea ice all around us and the Transantarctic Mountains were clearly visible on the horizon. What an evening! Calm, blue skies, and incredibly lovely conditions.
We are extremely lucky to be allowed to follow the ice channel all the way down to McMurdo Station. Although we cannot visit the station, aka “Mac Town” itself (they are in middle of big resupply and the vessel Ocean Giant is in attendance), we do get clearance to visit nearby Hut Point. In contrast to McMurdo with all its modern equipment, Hut Point features one of the earliest buildings in Antarctica. Constructed in 1902 by members of the National Antarctic (Discovery) Expedition led by Robert Falcon Scott, this hut is one of three significant historic sites on Ross Island. The prefabricated wooden hut of Australian design was intended for use only as an emergency shelter as the whole expedition lived on board their ship Discovery which was frozen fast in the ice about a mile away from the shore. The hut was mainly used for storage, or, on special occasions, to stage theatrical performances. Scott’s Discovery Expedition (1901 – 04) remains a significant landmark in Antarctic history. Apart from taking continuous weather and magnetic observations, expedition members reached the Polar Plateau of Victoria Land, discovered the first Emperor Penguin Colony, and undertook the first attempt to travel to the South Pole. Later in history, the shelter at Hut Point was used as a refuge or a temporary base during subsequent expeditions by Shackleton and Scott.
A short Zodiac ride to land at Hut Point around 10 p.m. and a magical late evening visit to this important historical site. The calm, sunny conditions were just incredible. The modest wooden cross on a neighbouring hill commemorates Able Seaman George Vince who lost his life in March 1902 while attempting to reach Cape Crozier. In the distance, on top of Observation Hill and overlooking the McMurdo Station, there is another larger cross. This one is in memory of Scott and his Polar Party who perished on their way back from the South Pole in March 1912 during the Terra Nova Expedition.
As with all the historical sites we will visit, Hut Point is an ASPA (Antarctic Specially Protected Area). This means that only a limited number of people are allowed in the general area, and in the hut, at any one time. Fiona, our NZ DoC representative, laid out the white plastic “carpet” and set up the boot cleaning brush station by the hut door. Then, with boots freshly clean of any grit, we entered, eight at a time. Our eyes adjusted slowly to the low light in the soot-blackened interior, still suffused with the smell of the smoky blubber stove that Shackleton’s Ross Sea Party used during their 2-month sojourn here. What a place!
We were all back on the ship just after midnight (still full sunshine outside) to enjoy a dessert of special chocolate brownies and warm berry compote in the bar. Then it was time for some much-needed sleep while we repositioned to Cape Evans.
© J. Bozinov
© J. Bozinov
© J. Bozinov
Day 16: Saturday 25th January
Ross Island: Morning at Cape Evans. Afternoon at Cape Royds and evening on the ice
Another early wake-up call to take advantage of the amazing conditions, still calm and sunny! After breakfast, we landed at Cape Evans to visit Scott’s Terra Nova Expedition Hut; only a short walk from our landing site over an area of volcanic grit scattered with historical artefacts and a few sleeping Weddell Seals. Mt Erebus overlooked the scene, steaming away gently. This is the world’s southernmost active volcano and at 3794 m in height, is also one of the largest.
Of all the historic places in Antarctica, Cape Evans is probably the most famous. Built to accommodate the 25 members of the British Antarctic (Terra Nova) Expedition (1910-1913), this hut was where many of the major events of the Robert Falcon Scott’s polar drama unfolded. Thanks to the remoteness of the region, a limited number of visitors, and the very cold and dry Antarctic climate, the hut has become a veritable time capsule of the Terra Nova Expedition. More than 11,000 items are carefully preserved in the hut, some of them first taken away for restoration and then returned to their proper place. Scott’s Den, the table where the men had their meals, the officer’s bunks and other interior elements as depicted in Herbert Ponting’s photographs have hardly changed during the past hundred years. All this gives a unique feeling to the place, as if the expedition members have only just left the hut or are about to return.
Even though the Terra Nova Expedition was planned as a scientific enterprise, one of Scott’s aims was to be the first to the South Pole. His unexpected rival in this endeavour was the Norwegian Roald Amundsen who suddenly changed his plans and took his expedition south instead of going to the Arctic as originally planned. Early in November 1911, Scott and his men set off for the Pole. Permanently underfed, experiencing innumerable hardships, bitter cold and strong winds, the Polar Party of five men reached their goal on 17th January 1912 only to find that the Norwegians had beaten them by more than a month. Two months later during their return from the Pole, the men perished in the middle of the Ross Ice Shelf just 11 miles (approx. one day’s march) from the nearest food and fuel depot.
The Scott tragedy overshadowed all previous Antarctic expeditions and to certain extent even Amundsen’s success at the Pole. For many years, the intensity of feeling surrounding this polar drama meant that historians were somewhat oblivious of the mistakes made by Scott, both at the planning stage and during the polar trek itself. With extensive information about all that occurred now available, and with a far more balanced approach to these century-old events, we are in a better position to understand both what went wrong with the Terra Nova Expedition, and the realities of the Heroic Age of Antarctic exploration.
After lunch, we landed at nearby Cape Royds to visit Shackleton’s Hut. This involved a longer walk over stark volcanic landscape of black sands, pillow basalts, and an eclectic collection of lava bombs courtesy of Mt Erebus. This is the southernmost of the three historic huts on the Ross Island, built by members of Ernest Shackleton’s Nimrod expedition (1907-1909). Shackleton, who is arguably the most famous Antarctic explorer of the Heroic Age, participated in Scott’s Discovery Expedition as a 3rd Officer under command of Scott. He was invalided home by Scott after their attempt on the Pole in 1903 and was keen to return to Antarctica with an expedition of his own.
In 1907, Shackleton got his chance after securing finance for a costly and complex Antarctic enterprise. Unlike Scott, Shackleton was less interested in science and more focused on reaching his goals. These were the long-sought geographic and magnetic South Poles, as well as prospecting for mineral resources. Shackleton’s Nimrod Expedition featured many firsts, including the first ascent of Mount Erebus, the first motor car on the Antarctic Continent, and the first book to be printed in Antarctica. On his attempt to march to the South Pole with his supplies running out, Shackleton made what was probably the wisest decision in the history of Antarctic exploration – to stop at 88 degrees 23’ South and turn back, just within 97 miles from the Pole, thereby saving his men’s lives.
Shackleton’s Hut at Cape Royds has quite a different feel to Scott’s Hut at Cape Evans. The expedition had no human losses and all historians agree that Shackleton had a far more egalitarian approach with his men compared to the strict naval discipline favoured by Scott. Like the other huts, the one at Cape Royds retains most of its original artefacts as left by the members of the Nimrod Expedition upon their departure in March 1909. Some of those artefacts were found only quite recently. For example, three crates of whiskey were discovered at the hut in 2010. As the newspapers said, that whiskey “had been on the rocks for a century”!
Back on the ship, we headed north back up the ice channel and were again treated to a visit from several groups of Ross Sea Killer Whales. Then after dinner, we rendez-voused with the Spirit of Enderby’s sister ship, the Akademik Shokalskiy, and enjoyed a truly magical evening of champagne and dessert on ice. As a crowning touch, an Emperor Penguin came and joined us, seemingly unafraid of all our paparazzi antics! Today is almost the 200th anniversary of the likely first ever sighting of the Antarctic Continent by the Russian explorer Bellingshausen (on 28th January 1820). What a great reason to celebrate! The guests of both ships raised their glasses to this momentous occasion, in honour of all the explorers who have come before us, and to the Antarctic Continent itself. Long may this region and its wildlife remain protected as an area to be shared by all nations.
© J. Bozinov
© J. Bozinov
© J. Bozinov
Day 17: Sunday 26th January
Day at sea in the Ross Sea with Killer Whales and icebergs. Evening Zodiac cruise at Cape Bird
A slow, relaxed start this morning with a bit of a lie in and a late breakfast after all the excitement of the last few days. A new weather system has moved in and it’s colder and windier out there. Time to reflect on our experiences at the historic sites of Ross Island and to process our photos. Passing along the pack ice, we again encounter a large group of Killer Whales, perhaps the same ones we’ve seen previously. They’re moving with purpose between the ice edge and the open leads within the ice, spy hopping occasionally to see what is on the ice itself. There is an Emperor Penguin and a few seals scattered about which could provide some interesting opportunities. Several of the females seem to be accompanied by calves of different ages which is very good to see. Adult male Killer Whales have large triangular dorsal fins and are easy to tell apart from the females which have far smaller dorsal fins. Several of the whales have notches in their dorsal fins, as well as a distinct swirl of white in their “saddle patches” behind the dorsal fin. These features can be used by researchers to individually identify the whales and monitor their movements. If you got some good photos, please consider submitting them to the website Happy Whale to help scientists studying these amazing animals.
Moving on, we steam close to an immense tabular iceberg over 5 ½ miles long which will have calved off the Ross Ice Shelf. How incredible!
Further on we can see the Dry Valleys, a huge area covering over 3000 km2, where the air is so devoid of moisture that there is no ice or snow at all. It is often said that no rain has fallen in the Dry Valleys for at least 2 million years, but that is not quite correct. It does indeed rain here from time to time, including several times in the last 50 years. Unfortunately, it was not possible for us to land on the coast here due to the uncharted waters, ASPA restrictions, and presence of ice. Instead, we enjoyed an iceberg-viewing ship’s cruise, circling several specimens with vivid blue colours.
During dinner we arrived at Cape Bird, the northern tip of Ross Island, where there is a large Adelie Penguin colony (c. 41,000 pairs). There was too much swell to allow us to land, but the conditions were perfect for an evening Zodiac cruise around the many grounded icebergs near the southern part of the penguin colony. All these bergs were larger flat-topped tabular bergs, or the remains thereof, originating from the Ross Ice Shelf. Several of the smaller bits were dotted with resting Adelie Penguins. The interplay of sunlight and shade on the angular white-blue facets of the bergs, and the ever-changing views as the Zodiacs circled around, were just stunning. A superb evening out on the water.
© J. Bozinov
Day 18: Monday 27th January
Morning at the Ross Ice Shelf. Afternoon at sea
After another exciting late night, it was a well-deserved and much-needed late start this morning. On waking, we found the ship directly adjacent to the mighty Ross Ice Shelf which fills the southern reaches of the Ross Sea. With temperatures down to minus 7 degrees Celsius before wind chill due to proximity of the ice, we spent several hours cruising west along this incredible ice barrier. At an immense 520,000 km2 in area, consisting of approx. 23,000 cubic km of ice, the Ross Ice Shelf covers an area approximately the size of France. Floating on the ocean, this vast expanse is fed by numerous glaciers and ice streams. At this point, near the coast, the ice shelf is over 1 km. Further out it is between 335 m – 700 m thick on average. At its seaward edge, the long ice cliffs that we sailed past, it is “only” about 100 m thick. It moves at quite a fast rate too – about 1.1 km per year. In doing so, it calves off on average approx. 150 cubic km worth of icebergs in the form of large flat-topped tabular bergs like those we have encountered in the past few days. Finally, after gazing our fill, we turned northwards and set our course for the general region of Coulman Island, approx. 20 hours away.
In the late morning, Maxim gave us another very interesting history presentation; this time about Shackleton’s Nimrod Expedition (1907 – 1909) which was based at Cape Royds. After lunch, many of us watched Part 4 of The Last Place on Earth which covered the events of September and October 1911, with both the Scott and Amundsen teams in their respective huts on the ice, and ultimately setting out for the South Pole. In the late afternoon, we learned more about Killer Whales (orca) from Steve, and then relaxed into the evening as we continued to steam north.
© J. Bozinov
Day 19: Tuesday 28th January
Morning at sea. Afternoon in the pack ice near Cape Hallett. Evening Zodiac cruise at the Possession Islands
A quiet morning at sea with loose pack ice near Coulman Island off our port beam. It’s warmer here, only about minus 1 degree Celsius, with light snow flurries. Coulman Island was named by James Clark Ross in 1841 for his father-in-law. After breakfast, we joined Merel in the lecture theatre to learn more about the seals of the Antarctic.
At 11:30 a.m. Maxim gave a talk about the Russian Antarctic Expedition led by Captain Bellingshausen. This was a significant voyage of discovery that contributed to the knowledge of the Southern Ocean in the first half of the 19th Century. Over two summers, in 1820 and 1821, Bellingshausen tried to sail as far south as the ice permitted, eventually circumnavigating Antarctica for only the second time in history after James Cook. During their perilous voyage, the Russian sailors charted Peter I Island and shores of Alexander Island, the most southerly islands yet discovered. They also observed the northern reaches of continental glaciers on several occasions. At the time, Bellingshausen and his officers didn’t fully realize the importance of what they had seen. However, later in the 20th Century, scholars determined that what Bellingshausen had seen on 28th January 1820 were glaciers on the Princess Martha Coast. As such, this date exactly 200 years ago today, is now considered to be the earliest sighting of the Antarctic continent. A few days later on 30th January 1820 a British vessel commanded by Captain William Bransfield sighted the southern coast of the Antarctic Peninsula, and later in that same year an American sealer Nathaniel Palmer sighted the continent east of the South Shetland Islands.
After lunch, the captain took the ship into the dense pack ice around Cape Hallett. A wonderful afternoon of spotting Crabeater Seals and even a few Emperor Penguins in amongst the little clusters of Adelies. There were majestic views over the ice floes with the dark mountains and brooding sky beyond. Snow Petrels like little Antarctic angels, and a short snowstorm featuring snow crystals in magical shapes also had many of us completely entranced.
Then it was time for a convivial session in the bar and another delicious dinner thanks to our chefs. Late that evening, we enjoyed a Zodiac cruise through the penguin-studded ice floes surrounding the Possession Islands. Named by James Clark Ross on the occasion of his planting the British flag here in 1841, the volcanic origins of these islands are very evident with their dark brooding cliffs of basalt smeared with remnant winter ice. The islands are home to several large colonies of Adelie Penguins (c. 300,000 pairs total) who revel in mountain climbing. Many of the hills above the boulder beach near the ship were completely covered in penguins and stained pink by their krill-rich poop.
© J. Bozinov
© J. Bozinov
Day 20: Wednesday 29th January
Morning in Robertson Bay, Adare Peninsula including Polar Plunge. Afternoon to Cape Adare with Minke Whales
A gentle start this morning with a ship’s cruise down the west coast of the Adare Peninsula into Robertson Bay while we waited for the ice around Cape Adare to clear. Conditions were very calm with low atmospheric cloud as we came into the head of the bay. Numerous glaciers come down from high mountains to meet the water here and it is a truly stunning location. After a short reconnaissance trip by Nathan and the team, we set off. For the intrepid, there was the option to come to land for a steep scramble to the top of a nearby ridgeline for glorious views over the bay. The rest of us enjoyed a relaxed Zodiac cruise to marvel at the magnificent glacier fronts, take photos of Adelie Penguins on ice floes, cautiously approach Crabeater Seals on ice floes, and gaze in stunned awe at the incredibly twisted and folded sedimentary shale layers which make up these ancient mountains.
After lunch, there was more fun for the intrepid in the form of the much-anticipated Polar Plunge. This event was perhaps as much fun (or even more) for those who chose simply to watch from the upper decks! A tentative and hesitating gait on the gangway belied nerves of steel as one after another of our bravest and boldest hurled themselves into the icy waters. Steve was there on the gangway to serve as lifeguard and John took photos from the safety Zodiac as Nathan stood grinning at his side.
Then we slowly headed back north through Robertson Bay to see if the ice had moved away from Cape Adare and would allow us to make a landing. Once again the conditions were almost glassy calm and the sun came out to light our way. Near the head of the bay we encountered a group of at least 15 Antarctic Minke Whales in a tight feeding aggregation. Their blows were clearly visible in the still air. Several people reported having seen these same whales around this area in the early morning when we were steaming into the bay. The whales dove in close synchrony several times, and on surfacing again, moved so close under the bow of the ship that we could see their whole bodies through the water. There were even a few breaches, some spy hops, and other energetic surface play. How amazing to see this number of Minke Whales all together and engaged in this sort of behaviour! Usually, Antarctic Minke Whales are seen only in ones or twos and are quite low key at the surface, breathing a few times and then diving without showing their tail flukes. In contrast, what we saw this afternoon was pretty astounding!
Unfortunately, as we drew close it was clear that there was still far too much ice around Cape Adare to land. While we could see Borchgrevinck’s huts on the shore, we were again unable to reach them. However, on such a truly gorgeous evening with a sea dotted with icebergs and painted with mirror reflections of the clouds in the sky, who could complain? The staff set up a “minibar” on the deck and we enjoyed a few drinks while delighting in the beauty all around us and reflecting on our time in Antarctica. From here we head north towards the open sea.
Day 21: Thursday 30th January
At Sea to the Balleny Islands
A day at sea today with the ship rolling with the swells. We're not used to this anymore! After breakfast, Fiona gave us an interesting presentation about the volcanoes of the Ross Sea region. Then Maxim put on Part 5 of The Last Place on Earth. After lunch, John talked about the geography of Antarctica. As we come back out of the Ross Sea into open waters, we’re starting to encounter albatross and various species of petrels again.
Just before dinner, we held an auction to raise funds from the Antarctic Heritage Trust. Items included prints of Herbert Ponting’s iconic photographs of Scott’s Discovery and Terra Nova Expedition, a bottle of Shackleton’s Whiskey, and an interesting array of Antarctic books. Everyone crowded into the bar area for the event, and with Nathan as auctioneer, we managed to raise over $2000. What a great effort!
Day 22: Friday 31st January
Morning Zodiac cruise at Sturge Island, Balleny Islands. Afternoon at sea heading north past Buckle and Young Islands
An early breakfast today as we sheltered in the lee of Sturge Island, the southernmost of the Balleny Island group. There’s a nasty low-pressure system around Cape Adare right now and we’re very happy we left when we did. Nathan has warned us that the next few days at sea will be quite rough, so we are enjoying the calm waters while we have them. The Balleny Islands were discovered in 1839 by the British expedition sent south by the Enderby Brothers of London to look for whaling and sealing opportunities. The islands were named for the commander, John Balleny. A short ship’s cruise along the dark, ice-covered, mist-shrouded coast and edge of the pack ice. Then an impromptu Zodiac cruise around the same in order to get better views of the ice, the glacier fronts, and the Crabeater Seals which were hauled out. Two Zodiacs had a surprise visit from a Chinstrap Penguin which jumped up onto the pontoon of the boats, first on one Zodiac and then the other, and seemed very relaxed about the whole experience. What an unbelievable close encounter!
After lunch the ship continued north, rolling a bit in the swells as we turned to avoid bands of thick pack ice, making for Buckle Island, the middle island of the Balleny Group. Near the southern tip of Buckle Island there is a trio of small rocky islands – Sabrina, Monolith, and Chinstrap. Less than 2 km wide, Sabrina is the largest and has a permanent icecap. The Monolith features an impressive sea stack (78 m tall) and is attached to Sabrina by a boulder spit. As the name would suggest, there is a small colony of Chinstraps on Chinstrap. There is also a colony of Adelie Penguins on Sabrina.
The bathymetry around the Balleny Islands is interesting too. For example, the water depth changes from approx. 200 m near the west coast of Buckle Island to over 1000 m just a little way further out. A good upwelling zone and a great place for cetaceans – sometimes. There were great views of the rocky islands as we cruised past, with dark stormy skies overhead and occasional shafts of sunlight turning the wind-swept seas into molten silver. We kept a sharp look out for whales but there was very little activity. Nonetheless, it was an excellent afternoon with conditions slowly improving as the day wore on. Just before dinner we crossed the Antarctic Circle (66 degrees 33’ South) again. No more 24-hour daylight from here on northwards.
Day 23: Saturday 1st February
Day at sea heading for Campbell Island. Early morning over the Balleny Seamounts
A relatively calm day with following seas including some big swells courtesy of the storm hanging around Cape Adare right now. A beautiful sunrise and excellent sighting conditions as we passed over the Balleny Seamounts. Such areas generate interesting currents and upwelling zones. This often results in a concentration of fish, squid, and those that would like to eat them. A good mix of seabirds were seen, including Light-mantled Sooty Albatross, Black-browed Albatross, and Campbell Island Albatross (the latter are very similar to the Black-browed Albatross but have striking yellow eyes). There were also a few sightings of Humpback Whales, but these were mostly fleeting glimpses.
In between looking for birds and whales out on deck, we also enjoyed a number of lecture presentations. At 9:30 a.m John gave a lecture/tutorial on how to get the most out of the photo-editing program, Lightroom. At 11:30 a.m. Merel spoke to us about the Wonderful World of Krill plus recent developments with the Ross Sea MPA (Marine Protected Area), with a brief pause at noon to acknowledge Brexit. After lunch, Maxim presented Part 6 of The Last Place on Earth. Then, at 4:30 p.m. Fiona gave an interesting lecture about Solar Science and other Polar Phenomena.
Day 24: Sunday 2nd February
Day at sea heading for Campbell Island
Another relaxing day at sea as we continued north towards Campbell Island. Nathan has told us that if we can maintain good speed, we should arrive around midday on 4th February. After breakfast, Maxim gave us the finale (Part 7) of The Last Place on Earth. Then, at 11:30 a.m. Merel presented the first of her lectures on Climate Change – A Primer for the Confused and Uncertain which generated some good discussion in the audience.
After lunch, Maxim spoke about Roald Amundsen and his life as a polar explorer. Later in the afternoon, the Sea Shop was set up in the port side dining room, and many of us wandered in to browse and purchase souvenirs and gifts for friends and family back home. There was also a bit of fun in the bar this evening when Rosie and the expedition team held an Antarctic Quiz. Lots of good questions to see if we had been paying attention during the lectures!
Day 25: Monday 3rd February
Day at sea heading for Campbell Island
At sea all day today in “confused seas” as we continued north towards Campbell Island. A course change in the late morning gave us more swell on the port side, which kept the ship rocking and rolling. Most of us have our sea legs now, so the main challenge is with balance rather than seasickness.
At 10 a.m., we all went through another round of biosecurity checks in preparation for our arrival on Campbell Island sometime tomorrow afternoon. We also handed back our big blue Antarctic jackets that we had on loan from the ship while in the Ross Sea. It’s a lot warmer in the subantarctics and often quite wet. The blue jackets kept us warm but will not keep us dry, so it’s time we found our raincoats again. At 11:30 a.m., Nathan did a presentation about the history of Heritage Expeditions.
After lunch, Steve gave us an introduction to Campbell Island and showed a short documentary about the Campbell Island Flightless Teal, a small flightless duck endemic to these islands which was long thought extinct. Re-discovered by Nathan’s father, Rodney Russ, on tiny Dent Island just off Campbell Island, these ducks have made a fantastic recovery and are now thriving on the main island once more. We’ll be keeping a close look out for these ducks when we are there.
Then it was out on the deck or up to the bridge once more to look for birds and whales. A small group of Royal Penguins was spotted in the waves. They will have come from Macquarie Island, several 100 km away. It seems like such a long time ago since we visited the Royal Penguin colony at Macquarie on our way down to the Ross Sea.
Day 26: Tuesday 4th February
Morning at sea. Afternoon at Campbell Island
It was quite a disturbed night last night as we were tossed to-and-fro thanks to a big westerly swell. The motion of the ocean continued through the morning, but the sun was shining, and the air was busy with seabirds as we drew ever closer to Campbell Island. For watchers on the decks there was plenty to see, with Southern Royal Albatross, Campbell Albatross, Grey-headed Albatross, Light-mantled Sooty Albatross, Northern Giant Petrels, and more. There were impressive views of Campbell and associated islets and sea stacks bathed in sunshine as we came near.
With a turn to port, we headed into the long, narrow inlet of Perseverance Harbour, which almost cuts Campbell Island in two. Magnificent hills studded with tussock grasses and a confetti of albatross above the waves. A quick lunch was served as soon as we entered sheltered waters, followed by a briefing in the lecture room with Nathan explaining the plan for the afternoon.
Then it was into the Zodiacs for a short shuttle ride to shore. We landed near the old wharf associated with the NZ DoC Campbell Island Research Station at Beeman Cove. Cautiously avoiding several temperamental young male New Zealand (Hooker’s) Sea Lions, we set off along the wooden boardwalk past the station buildings and up into the hills. This boardwalk is about 3.5 km in length, stretching from the landing near the head of Perseverance Harbour, over the Col Lyall Saddle, and out to the top of the cliffs on the west coast of the island. The view from these cliffs over Northwest Bay, Cattle Bay, and Dent Island was unbelievable. However, the bigger drawcard of this walk was the Southern Royal Albatross which have their nests near these western cliffs. To see these immense birds up close, sitting in peaceful meditation on their eggs, was wonderful. Other albatross swooped back and forth in graceful arcs above our heads. Gathered on a low rise, a small group of juvenile albatross were practicing their courtship displays, spreading their wings wide and calling to each other with their heads lifted up to the sky. Further birding highlights included glimpses of Campbell Island Snipe and the Campbell Island Flightless Teal. One had a young duckling! Knowing how much work it took to eradicate all the invasive mammals on the island and then re-introduce the teal, it was great to see them doing so well.
There was also quite a bit of interesting plant life, though most species are now reaching the end of their flowering season. Several megaherbs grow on Campbell Island – all three species of the giant Pleurophyllum daisies, the Campbell Island “Carrot” (Anisotome antipoda), Macqaurie Island “Cabbage” (Stilbocarpa polaris) and the Ross Lily (Bulbinella rossii). The Giant Button Daisies (P. criniferum) grew right alongside the track in several places and we had to be careful not to step on their massive leaves. These windswept hills are predominantly covered in Poa and Snow Tussocks, Hebe bushes, and short Dracophyllum grass trees. This is the southernmost of New Zealand’s subantarctic islands. Unlike the Auckland Islands, there are no forests of Southern Rata trees. Too far south and too harsh a climate!
A blissfully still night with the ship at anchor in Perseverance Harbour and time to catch up on some sleep. There will be more opportunities to explore Campbell Island tomorrow.
© J. Bozinov
© J. Bozinov
Day 27: Wednesday 5th February
Day at Campbell Island
It was a relatively early start this morning in order to make the most of our second day at Campbell Island. There were rain squalls moving through and a bright double rainbow formed over the hills, but the weather soon cleared. Patchy sunshine and mild temperatures which still feel like such a luxury after some of the bitter cold we experienced in Antarctica.
A small group of “long walkers” led by Steve, Heather, and Fiona set off directly after breakfast for a full day jaunt over the hills. Starting from the DoC Station at Beeman Cove, they came around Tucker Cove, and then took a northerly route around the front of Depot Peak to gain the Col Peak Ridgeline. From there it was a steep scramble down to Capstan Cove where they took a break to eat their packed lunches. Then it was uphill once more to Shark Point and the Northwest DoC Hut, before following a series of ridgelines south and then east. A short pause by a cave once used as shelter by whalers in the early 1900s, and the walk’s end down at Camp Cove where they were picked up by Nathan. Highlights included nesting albatross, baby sea lions, and orchids!
After the long walkers had departed, the rest of us piled into the Zodiacs for a cruise around the western extremities of Perseverance Harbour. First on the list were some good sightings of the flightless Campbell Island Flightless Teal dabbling around near the shore at Lookout Bay. Two fluffy Kelp Gull chicks stood on the beach nearby, well-camouflaged among the rocks. Cruising slowly along the coast, we were soon joined by a number of curious New Zealand (Hooker’s) Sea Lions which played around in our wakes.
Further around, past the dock of the Research Station, we turned into Tucker Cove. This was the site of the first pastoral lease of Campbell Island which was taken up by J. H. Gordon in 1895. Over 350 sheep were landed here and living quarters, a woolshed, and a store were built. Ultimately sheep were farmed here for over 30 years until the financial hardships of the Depression made this industry unviable. Several shore whaling camps also operated on Campbell Island during this time. Looking up into the hills from Tucker Cove, you can still see the remains of an old fence line. All sheep were removed from the island in 1992.
Later, Tucker Cove was the site of the Coastwatcher Station which operated during World War II. Men were posted here for several years at a time to monitor the harbour and report on visits by enemy ships. After the war, the facilities were used as a meteorological station until 1958 when a new one was established in conjunction with the DoC Research Station just around the corner at Beeman Cove.
Continuing on, we made our way into Camp Cove to see what is known as “The Loneliest Tree in the World”. This is a Northern Hemisphere Sitka Spruce which was planted as a memorial in the early 1900s. There were also good numbers of Hooker’s Sea Lions about and we enjoyed watching their antics in the water and on shore.
The end of Perseverance Harbour is known as Garden Cove. Here we went ashore for a brief leg stretch and a short walk along the first part of the track that leads to Mount Honey. Nearby is Venus Cove where a French team spent 3 months in 1874. The purpose of this expedition was to observe the transit of Venus across the face of the Sun and take measurements in order to better calculate the Earth’s distance from the Sun (as part of a coordinated global project taking measurements from a variety of geographic locations simultaneously). Unfortunately the extreme cloudiness of the island meant the French team’s observations were almost useless. Nothing is left today except a grave. Sadly, one of their team died of typhoid fever during their stay.
After lunch, quite a few of us headed back to the landing at Beeman Cove and the DoC Station for another chance to wander the boardwalk and admire the albatross, the snipe, the megaherbs, the sea lions, the landscapes, and more. A last opportunity to spend some time on this beautiful island.
After dinner, we lifted the anchor and headed out of Perseverance Harbour, back into the wild Southern Ocean. On our way north, we passed Bull Rock which is an important nesting site for Grey-headed, Black-browed, and Campbell Island Albatross. Next stop is The Snares, about 36 hr away, and our transit could be a bit bumpy!
Day 28: Thursday 6th February
Day at sea heading for The Snares
A rolly-polly bumpy night and a day at sea featuring much of the same with big swells coming through from the west. Due to the movement of the ship, most of us spent the day quietly in our cabins snoozing and trying to make up for lost sleep. After lunch, Merel presented Part 2 of her talk about climate change, entitled What’s Happening in Antarctica? In the discussion that followed, some good points were made about the potential positive and negative impacts of tourism in Antarctica.
A course change was made in the early evening so we could eat our dinner in relative comfort. Then it was back to our original course with The Snares as our destination. If things go according to plan, we should arrive there in the early hours of the morning.
Day 29: Friday 7th February
Early Zodiac cruise at The Snares. Afternoon at sea towards Stewart Island
As the grey light of dawn filtered through our cabin portholes, Nathan gave us a wake-up call to say that conditions looked good for a pre-breakfast Zodiac cruise at The Snares. The ship had found some shelter off the South Promontory of North East Island, the main island in this group, and before we knew it, we were up, dressed, heading down the gangway, and into the Zodiacs waiting below. The Snares are the only subantarctic islands that have never suffered the introduction of terrestrial mammals. After their discovery by sealers in 1791 and the subsequent decimation of the fur seal population, very few other people ever visited. Today, no landings are permitted (exceptions are made for scientific research), and The Snares serve as a virtually pristine haven for seabirds and other avifauna.
Cruising close by the low granite cliffs, garlanded with long tresses of kelp swirling with the tide, we encountered an incredible abundance of wildlife. Sooty Shearwaters returning to their burrow nests formed dark clouds over our heads, and the waters thronged with Cape Petrels, Common Diving Petrels, Antarctic Terns, gulls, and more. There were New Zealand (Long Nosed) Fur Seals hauled out on the rocks, and several jumped in to follow the wake of the Zodiacs, attracted by the bubbles generated by the motors. As we continued around the coast, we found Snares Crested Penguins (endemic to these islands) and also Buller’s Albatross (sometimes referred to as Buller’s Mollymawks). There were spectacular sea caves, tunnels, and a narrow channel between the rocks just wide enough for the Zodiacs to get through. In the calm waters of Ho Ho Bay, we were able to get even closer views of the Snares Crested Penguins. Thick peat covers much of the island providing an excellent substrate for shearwater burrows. Small forests of tree daisies (Brachyglottis and Olearia) from dense thickets in sheltered areas. The penguins make small nests of twigs and mud in among these trunks of these trees. The forest canopy itself is home to the endemic Snares Island Tomtit and Snares Island Fernbird, both of which we were fortunate to see as well.
We were also extremely lucky to see a single Fiordland Crested Penguin. Due to its small population size (approx. 3000 pairs), this is considered to be one of the rarest of all penguins. A few are seen at The Snares every year, but they do not breed here. The closest breeding colony is on Stewart Island. There was also a surprising sighting of a Canada Goose, sitting quietly in among the trees of Ho Ho Bay near the old research hut. These geese are now in plague proportions in many parts of the world. Are they looking to The Snares as their next conquest? We hope not!
Then, turning one final corner we found ourselves at the foot of the famous “Penguin Slide” - a steep granite slope connecting the sea to the forest high above that hordes of Snares Crested Penguins travel up and down continuously. In the water there were large rafts of Cape Petrels and commuting Snares Crested Penguins. What a truly wonderful morning, and what a finale to the trip.
Back on board for breakfast and then a last few hours at sea heading for Stewart Island where we will anchor for the night before coming into the Port of Bluff early tomorrow morning. This afternoon Nathan will present a final round up of the expedition and we will see John’s much anticipated end-of-expedition slide show. What a fabulous voyage this has been!
Day 30: Saturday 8th February
Disembarkation at Bluff. Transport to Invercargill and flights home
Heritage Expeditions would like to thank you for travelling with us on ‘In the Wake of Scott & Shackleton’. We hope to see you again soon somewhere between the poles. Wishing you fair winds and following seas!