1967: Galapagos of the Southern Ocean 22 December 2019

Day 1: Sunday 22nd December 2019
Invercargill

Today passengers arrived into Invercargill full of excitement and anticipation of the great adventure that was ahead, a Christmas and New Year spent exploring the Subantartic Islands of New Zealand and Australia. Making our way to the Ascot Park Hotel, this evening we gathered to meet each other and some of the expedition team at the welcome dinner, with information on tomorrows plans, and some sage advice about managing sea sickness we were soon off to our beds before we swapped them for a ship berth over the next 12 nights.

Day 2: Monday 23rd December 2019
Curio Bay & Port of Bluff

After breakfast and security check this morning we boarded the coach to visit Curio Bay, is a coastal embayment in the Southland District of New Zealand, best known as the site of a petrified forest some 180 million years old. After a wander around the Curioscape Gateway exhibit, and down to the safe waters of Porpoise Bay where we looked for Hector’s Dolphins and local birdlife. Stopping for lunch on our way back to Invercargill by mid afternoon we were heading to the Port of Bluff.

The fine Southland day welcomed 49 passengers to the Spirit of Enderby. After a quick passage through customs on board the ship, everyone settled in to their cabins before afternoon tea, hot biscuits from Al and Matt our two experienced chefs in the galley made for an inviting aroma. The afternoon was then taken up with informative induction briefings from Chris Todd (Expedition Leader), Heidi Dohn (Cruise Director), lifeboat drills and an outline of tomorrow’s hoped for visit to The Snares. There were introductions from the other expedition crew; Dr Lynne Taylor (Medical Officer) Nick White (Zodiac driver, guide), Rachael Sagar (guide, lecturer, Zodiac driver), Lindsay Wilson (guide, lecturer, Zodiac driver). Quietly ensuring the safe operation of the ship were the 22 Russian crew led by Captain Dimitri.

The boat slipped out of Bluff shortly after 5pm with the local pilot leaving the ship with some deft footwork from the rope ladder on to the accompanying pilot boat. There were some gentle rolls as we crossed Foveaux Strait before being sheltered for a time by Rakiura. Those that ventured out on to the deck as we travelled south were treated to sightings of a range of accompanying seabirds including diving-petrels, Cape Pigeons/Petrels, Southern Royal Albatross and Buller’s Mollymawk. Fine dining in the evening was punctuated by vigorous singing from passengers and staff celebrating Ian’s birthday. The seas were kindly moderate as we steamed our way southwards bound for The Snares.

Day 3: Tuesday 24th December 2019
The Snares

After a relatively smooth journey by Southern Ocean standards we arrived at The Snares about an hour after daylight. Nick had given us all a tip last night that the Titi or Grey-faced Petrels make a dramatic mass departure from the island right on daylight. With a million plus birds on the island this was a sight that had a number of us set alarms hoping to see. Regrettably we were a little late arriving for this spectacle; however we were privileged to be amongst hundreds of Titi in the Zodiacs later in the morning.

Following a hearty breakfast five Zodiacs were launched and everyone aboard practiced their Zodiac boarding skills in a moderate swell. Once closer to the island we were able to enjoy a smooth cruise in fine weather around the coast. Bobbing amongst the bull kelp good viewings of Snares Crested Penguins was the order of the day, the ‘Penguin Slide’ being the largest rookery where birds could be seen traipsing uphill into the forest, large groups also porpoised and swam around the Zodiacs. Skuas patrolled overhead regularly searching for the less fortunate. The Snares coastline is spectacular sculpted granite. Cruising close inshore at times, a nesting pair of endemic Snares Fernbirds were spotted, along with the distinctive all black Snare Island Tomtit. Fur seals dotted the shore and entertained with occasional displays of synchronising swimming. Several early nesting Buller’s Mollymawks were spotted on the cliffs.

The botanists among us were noting the relatively simple botanical diversity here, Veronica (hebe), and tree daisies (Olearia and Brachyglottis) being the dominant vegetation with tussock patches and the odd megaherb.

The afternoon of Christmas Eve was spent travelling south in moderate seas towards Port Ross, Auckland Islands. A lecture on seabirds from Rachael Sagar in the afternoon whetted many appetites for some great bird watching in the afternoon with Royal Albatross, Gibson Wandering Albatross, dainty diving-petrels and many other seabirds accompanying our journey southwards. Chris also gave an informative lecture on the Auckland Islands and provided a heads up for the next day’s programme. Anchor was weighed in Port Ross in the early hours of the morning.

Day 4: Wednesday 25th December 2019
Christmas Day at Enderby Island, Auckland Islands

Christmas Day dawned calm and fine and the flat seas made for a relaxing Christmas breakfast. After breakfast we landed at Sandy Bay on Enderby Island. The first parties onshore were met by a group of Campbell Island Teal fossicking in the kelp. The beach was well occupied by Hookers Sea Lions going about the drama of birthing, mating and fighting for territory and females. The two key options for the day were an around the island walk of about 6 hours or a more sedate trip exploring locally at Sandy Bay and across the boardwalk to the western coast. Both groups had an amazing fine sunny day admiring flowering megaherbs, smaller orchids and gentians and the rich red of the rata gave us our subantarctic Christmas tree, melodious Bellbirds sang from the treetops. All the forest birds were seen by both groups; Auckland Island snipe/fernbird/tomtit/pipit, tui, Red-crowned Parakeet along with nesting Light-mantled Sooty Albatross, Auckland Island Shags, and Royal Albatross, Yellow-eyed Penguin, skua and giant petrels. Some were treated to a low-level attack displays from a territorial falcon which resulted in the temporary loss of a hat and a little skin – the low passes did enable clear identification of the falcon’s leg bands which is important for a research programme underway.

After watching the continuous spectacle of the large sea lion beachmasters squabbling for prime real estate and the spoils that go with it we left an amazingly balmy Enderby Island for a final short Zodiac cruise along the coast to see colonies of nesting Auckland Island Shags and spectacular cliffs with colourful columnar basalt rock formations.

Back on to the Spirit of Enderby for a well-earned relax in the bar before being treated to a sumptuous Christmas feast prepared by our talented chefs Matt and Al.

A memorable Christmas for all.

Day 5: Thursday 26th December 2019
Boxing Day at Musgrave Inlet, Carnley Harbour and en route to Macquarie Island

An early start for all as we set off to Musgrave Inlet a little after daylight for a pre breakfast exploration. Into the Zodiacs and across to the rocky shoreline of the harbour we were soon getting up close and personal with Eastern Rockhopper Penguins that were scattered amongst the rock jumbles at the base of the coastal cliffs. The calm waters in by the shore enabled good viewing as we wove amongst the kelp, stopping occasionally to clear weed gathering around the motor. Then it was a quick trip in breezy conditions across to the other side of the harbour, admiring the display of flowering rata en-route, then it was a slow creep through a narrow rock archway to the calm shelter enclave of a ‘secret garden grotto’. This amazing spot has been created by the collapse of a cave roof leaving a small amphitheatre with mossy stalactites and multi-coloured rock walls. Next it was around the corner and into a deep coastal cave with roof still intact, not a place that everyone wanted to linger. Back to the ship for a welcome breakfast prepared for us by Al and Matt before the trip south continued to Carnley Harbour. Here we split in to two groups, walkers headed uphill in Tagua Bay through gnarled rata forest to see the remains of the Coastwatcher’s hut and lookout, while the others explored the coast by Zodiac. The lack of birdlife was notable with our recent Enderby Island visit for comparison – a testament to the predations of cats, pigs and mice.

Following lunch on board ship the voyage southwards to Macquarie Island began. Clear of the shelter of Auckland Island we experienced some rolling seas, not enough to discourage a strong attendance at Rachael’s excellent informative presentation on the Maukahuka/Auckland Island Pest Eradication Project.

Day 6: Friday 27th December 2019
At Sea

Today was a relaxing ship day which began with a leisurely breakfast at 8am. Most spent the day catching up on reading, the odd power-nap interspersed with two very interesting presentations from Chris- ‘Guns, Pigs and Potatoes’ giving the fascinating back story to the occupation by Polynesians of the Auckland Islands/Maukahuka and an introduction to Macquarie Island which further heightened our anticipation for tomorrows visit. Other events during the day included a biosecurity check and a sea shopping opportunity to stock up on subantarctic necessities and mementos. The sea was lumpy during the morning but eased to a gentle roll by the afternoon.

Day 7: Saturday 28th December 2019
Sandy Bay & Buckles Beach, Macquarie Island

After a somewhat rolling journey south, calm was attained as we anchored off Macquarie Island around 2am. After breakfast a quick trip in the Zodiacs to the Buckles Beach Macquarie Base collected the Rangers and then it was on to Sandy Bay where everyone was whisked ashore in the Zodiacs to be greeted by a curious welcoming committee of Royal and King Penguins - elephant seals basked all around with occasional half-hearted jousts between the males. The weather was fine with a moderate breeze and a balmy 3.5 degrees. There was something of a sensory overload for most of us as we were treated to masses of penguins and elephant seals. The King Penguins had gathered en masse in different colonies to moult and breed with the egg pouches looking full on top of their feet. A short boardwalk uphill saw us looking over a massive breeding colony of Royal Penguins complete with numerous chicks. It was a noisy smelly spot with penguin action and regular swoops of skuas with at least one unlucky penguin chick being snatched from above. The occasional short-lived squall gave us a feel for what it would normally be like, then the sun returned, and it warmed up and calmed during the day. Returning to the boat for a welcome hot lunch of lamb curry then it was up north and all disembarked at Buckles Beach to be treated to a tour of the base area. Once again, the wildlife was exceptional with Gentoo Penguins added to the mix. The base staff treated us with hot scones, jam and cream at the base and then there was time to explore the areas wildlife and history. The large ‘digesters’ stand as a testament to the slaughter of thousands of penguins rendered for their oil by entrepreneur Mr Hatch.

The healthy swards of tussock and masses of Pleurophyllum hookeri megaherbs are a strong reminder of the impact of removing rabbits from the island in 2004; older photos show a ravaged landscape.

Everyone is becoming something of an expert at embarking and disembarking from the Zodiacs in varying seas and situations – today a front on landing onto a moderately surging stony beach. With the evening warming and calming it was back to the boat for more epicurean delights from the galley with much pondering of all that had been seen today.

Day 8: Sunday 29th December 2019
Lusitania Bay, Macquarie Island

An early morning start saw the ship relocated to Lusitania Bay at daybreak and a strong turnout for a 6.30am departure on the Zodiacs. It was a moody scotch mist sort of a morning that the Zodiacs cruised through to approach the shore and it was an overwhelming sight as the extent of the penguin colonies here revealed themselves though the murk. Hundreds of thousands of King Penguins were amassed along the coastal strip and the noise and smell drifted out to us and we cruised north offshore. At the northern end of the beach was a large colony of Royal Penguins with a congregation of breeding birds clumped on a bare patch of ground. Healthy swards of tussock covered the hillsides interspersed with large fields of ‘Macquarie cabbage’ (Stilbocarba polaris). With a feeling of subdued awe at this huge gathering of wildlife in such a pristine setting we returned to the Spirit of Enderby for a much-appreciated healthy breakfast. Mid-morning a quick trip to Buckles Beach to pick up the Rangers and then it was back on to Sandy Bay to have another opportunity to absorb the wonders of this spot. Once again, we were greeted at the beach by curious King and Royal Penguins and juvenile elephant seals came to check us out. A most enjoyable time was spent absorbing and observing – notably there was less photography today and more appreciative quiet contemplation. The Rangers commented on how respectful of the wildlife our group was. It was a real bonus to be able to have an opportunity for a return visit to this special place. The wild setting, the sound and actions of the wildlife and the curiosity and fearlessness of the penguins and elephant seals here a glimpse of a mostly lost world. It felt a real privilege to be present in such a spot. Regrettably we had to continue our journey so after dropping Ranger Drew back at the Base we began the voyage northeast bound for Campbell Island.

The weather Gods continued to smile on us and with remarkably calm seas for the Southern Ocean the tail wind helped us forward with just a gentle roll.

Day 9: Monday 30th December 2019
At Sea

The day was spent cruising north towards Campbell Island in amazingly calm waters. The day was one of relaxation and bird watching from the deck interspersed with an interesting presentation from Chris on the subantarctic megaherbs and another presentation from Lindsay on the Campbell Island rat eradication. In the evening, a briefing was provided on Campbell Island and the potential options for exploring the island the next day.

Day 10: Tuesday 31st December 2019
Campbell Island

The day began calm with a scotch mist. The Long Walker group struck off first, being dropped in Tucker Cove before heading over to Northwest Bay and sidling back across the flanks of Mt Dumas before dropping down to Perseverance Harbour near the ‘Loneliest tree in the world’, a Sitka spruce planted more than 120 years ago by Lord Ranfurly. This group were treated to spectacular views of Northwest Bay from the ridge crest, looking across to Dent Island (last refuge of Campbell Island Teal) and north to the jagged skyline of Correjoles Peninsula. On the upper slopes Pleurophyllum and Bulbinella megaherbs formed flower gardens before the group dropped down above the limestone cliffs of Northwest Bay. A break for lunch, shortened by an increasing wind and dropping temperature then it was a short scrub bash through the Dracophyllum. Sadly, the reducing cloud ceiling reduced albatross activity on the upper slopes but numerous nesting Royals were seen and the odd flying bird appeared as we dropped out of the cloud on the harbour side. A quick pause in the Coastwatcher’s cave to enjoy a respite from the wind and then down to meet the Zodiacs. Other wildlife seen on this trip included snipe, pipits, elephant seals, sea lions (some appearing unexpectedly in the dracophyllum forest) and an Antipodes Albatross. Several of this group were keen for more and set off up the boardwalk to Col Lyall, joined by the rest of the team back from their Zodiac adventures.

The Zodiac teams had a great morning exploring the shores of Perseverance Harbour seeing a good variety of wildlife including a Rockhopper Penguin (uncommon on this side of the island), sea lions, albatross and Campbell Island Shags. The return trip back to the ship was made more exhilarating with the arrival of the odd energetic williwaw and showery squalls.

The cloud was low turning to drizzle at times for the afternoon Col Lyall trek and the wind sprang up, giving everyone a taste of the real subantarctic. Few birds were flying but nesting Royals were passed and the herbfields loomed out of the mist.

It was a late dinner as all returned from an action-packed day. Matt and Al had prepared a delicious four course French – themed dinner, then bubbles were produced to toast the New Year. Chris expressed his gratitude for an amazing group of expeditioners and a great crew. For most it was then bedtime, with a smaller group of hardy souls staying on to see the New Year in.

Day 11: Wednesday 1st January 2020
Campbell Island

A calm fine day after early morning mist on the hills. The low cloud base put paid to a proposed trip up Mt Honey. It was an even split between those opting for a wildlife cruise in the Zodiac and those tempted by another visit in near perfect conditions up to Col Lyall. The Col Lyall group were blessed with great views and displays from the Southern Royal Albatross. At one stage 17 albatross were swooping over the ridge crest, many at low level with a muted glider like swish. There were pairs gamming on top, engaging in affectionate courtship displays. A brief period of excitement arose when a young male sea lion made his way up the boardwalk and joined the team at the summit, curiously checking us out before growing bored and ambling across the megaherb fields. Snipe, pipits, orchids were seen by most and down at the wharf a pair of Campbell Island Teal fossicked in the kelp. The Zodiac teams were treated to great boating conditions which enabled a trip out towards the entrance of Perseverance Harbour, spotting Light-mantled Sooty Albatross, a sea lion colony and Campbell Island Shags.

United back on ship, there was time for a tasty lunch, a group photo on the bow and then we set sail for Bluff. The ship cruised inshore along the eastern coast of Campbell Island where the multi-coloured sea cliffs were admired, binocular wearers could look at the large colonies of Campbell and Grey-headed Mollymawks behind Bull Rock. Then it was time to farewell the Subantarctic Islands and head for all our worldly obligations on the mainland shepherded by a good array of albatross, mollymawks and petrels. Seas continue to be gentle, albeit with a moderate slow roll.

Day 12: Thursday 2nd January 2020
At Sea to Port of Bluff

Fortune continued to favour us as we headed north in smooth seas with a gentle roll. Sea fog hugged the surface at daybreak but soon dispersed as the sun broke through. A day for reflection, tidy up and bird watching from the deck, punctuated by a great presentation from Rachael on her thesis studying mottled petrels. This was our last full day at sea and happily we reached the lee of Rakiura before the approaching front loomed from the west. After a delicious farewell dinner, it was a retreat to the bar for a final celebration.

Day 13: Friday 3rd January 2020
Port of Bluff

A final breakfast together then it was a flurry of activity as luggage was taken off and final farewells made. A fantastic expedition with great people that was blessed with wonderful weather. A memorable Christmas and New Year.