2069: Forgotten Islands of the South Pacific 3 January 2020
© Heritage Expeditions
Day 1: Friday 3rd January
Invercargill, Port of Bluff
Day 1 saw the Spirit of Enderby return to the Port of Bluff filled with happy expeditioners from the previous journey, having returned northward accompanied by outstanding weather. Hot on their heels, well actually cold on their heels, was a blustery front of some magnitude.
It would never be enough to dampen anyone’s enthusiasm, and so the busload of very eager new voyagers arrived dockside just after 3 p.m. Whipping rain and wind saw a hasty but smooth embarkation.
Once cabins were turned to floating homes, the voyage briefing and introductions completed, the whole ship’s company discovered, for the first time for many, the hidden joys of a lifeboat drill. Really, will the crew have to fit in here as well? All of us? In here? The good-humoured but necessary practice no doubt provided much reassurance. The small success was celebrated in the bar and then the first of what would become a gastronomic adventure in the dining room.
With a foreboding forecast the wise decision was made to reverse the expedition and head south to Campbell Island as a first destination. The aim would be to ride out the expected rough seas in the day and a half passage south to NZ’s southernmost island.
The most exciting moments came in the evening, as we left port into a gathering swell we all marvelled at the dexterity of the Pilot as he returned back to the Pilot Boat with aplomb and relieved applause.
© Heritage Expeditions
Day 2: Saturday 4th January
At Sea to Campbell Island
Gales Ahoy. Day one had only really just commenced when at midnight the swells, wind and sea picked up dramatically as predicted. That would spell the end of a good night’s rest for most, as tidy cabins became strewn with things that go bump in the night. Only a few hardy souls made it to breakfast and even lunch as the storm continued through the day.
On a bright side the birds were up and about, cherishing the uplift and eager for any storm-disturbed food at the surface. Those who had regained their sea-legs and ventured to the bridge enjoyed all-day views of Campbell, White-capped and Southern Royal Albatross; Sooty Shearwater; Cape, Northern Giant and White-chinned Petrel; and Black-bellied Storm-petrel. Special sightings included several Mottled Petrel and a Buller’s Albatross. Two separate pods of dolphins were spied, including possible Dusky Dolphin first thing in the morning, despite being so far south, followed later by Bottlenose.
By dinner, the swell and wind had decreased noticeably, leading to a full bar and almost full dinner tables. Things were looking promising for the day ahead.
© Heritage Expeditions
Day 3: Sunday 5th January
Campbell Island
What a magnificent sleep! Almost the full complement at breakfast, feeling as buoyant as you can on a ship! Hearty appetites had returned commensurate with the following seas. Campbell Island looked to be within easy reach, so morning briefings included quarantine procedures, Zodiac launching and Campbell Island options.
In between, an ever increasing gallery of sea-bird watchers assembled on the bridge and even outside as the conditions allowed, Campbell appeared out of the clag ahead. Light-mantled Sooty Albatross stole the show, in ever increasing numbers as we neared the island, alongside Southern Royal Albatross, Campbell Albatross (of course!), Northern Giant Petrel, Prion spp, NZ Sea lions and a briefly glimpsed penguin, thought to be a Rockhopper.
Everyone lined the ships exterior as we entered Perseverance Harbour and still waters. Whilst the majority chose the Col Lyall boardwalk, 3 enthusiastic champions climbed with guide Chris to the top of Mt Honey, seeing plenty of snipe along the way.
Those taking the Col Lyall walk were corralled briefly right at the start by a young Mr New Zealand Sea lion, plus entertained by a Campbell Island Teal and Campbell Island Shag. As the climb up the boardwalk progressed the oohs and aahs came in support of the flowering megaherbs. And then back to the birds as we neared the summit of our walk and enjoyed the courtship dances of Southern Royal Albatross pairs and the practising courtships of other non-paired immatures.
All in all it was a fantastic introduction to the New Zealand Subantarctic Islands and their fascinating wildlife and flora. Dinner was both welcomed and soundly deserved!
© Heritage Expeditions
© C. Todd
Day 4: Monday 6th January
Campbell Island
Choices! What wonderful but difficult choices awaited us as we woke to the glassy reflections of Perseverance Harbour. A Zodiac ride along the shores of the harbour and out to the entrance, or a 7km walk to Northwest Bay. Almost equal numbers chose each, and none were disappointed.
The Zodiac cruise started along the north shore, with big intentions of heading out of the entrance early, but was slowed up in an exciting way as we stopped for Antarctic Terns, Campbell Island Shags, Northern Giant Petrels gorging on a sea lion carcass, 3 Yellow-eyed Penguins timidly heading to the beach, and a sea lion colony with tiny newborn pups being eyed off by Brown Skua. The Zodiacs were dive bombed by Southern Royal Albatross, Brown Skua, Cape Petrel and Antarctic Tern, all in a friendly way.
Outside the entrance in some choppy seas we spied numerous Rockhopper Penguins deciding whether to go fishing for the day. Back inside, we saw the most beautiful Light-mantled Sooty Albatross on a nest. Some of us finished with another walk up past Beaman Hill, the views never failing to bring pleasure.
The walkers had an equally magnificent but more arduous time, making their way to the north-west coast and spotting elephant seals and stunning coastal scenery. The pickup point for the walkers was around at the Spruce Tree in Garden Cove. The wind had picked up and the tide was doing its usual strange things in this place, so the Zodiac launching with happy but relieved walkers involved a bit of extra fun pushing the craft out of the shallow waters. It all ended well, and dinner was enjoyed as we left the harbour toward the Auckland Islands. Not to retire too early, many lined the bridge inside and out to watch the farewell spectacle of Campbell Island and its waterfalls, ocean cliffs and seabirds galore in some glorious evening sunlight, and yes, a bit of a swell again but long and slow and in a following sea.
© Heritage Expeditions
Day 5: Tuesday 7th January
Auckland Island- Carnley Harbour to Ross Harbour
Arriving at Auckland Islands at sunrise our first task was to ferry a Zodiac load of equipment and supplies to an Albatross research team stationed on Adam’s Island. A gentle cruise in the Spirit of Enderby up the west arm of Carnley Harbour highlighted some of the grandiose beauty of the area. A strong easterly wind and swell meant that the planned Zodiac cruise and landing in Musgrave Inlet would not be possible, and with no forecast of abatement we headed to the sanctuary of Ross Harbour and Hardwicke settlement. Lectures included Auckland Island feral removal by Rachael, and Technological influences on the history of the subantarctic islands by Chris.
A nice evening ashore at Hardwicke was provided before a late dinner, where we inspected the small but interesting cemetery and searched for the scant remains of the settlement. Some bush birds: Bellbirds, parakeets and a Tomtit, showed what promise the island will achieve once the remaining ferals are removed.
© Heritage Expeditions
© C. Todd
Day 6: Wednesday 8th January
Enderby Island
After Alex’s introduction the night before, everyone awoke early and keen to get onshore at Enderby Island and see first-hand the results of pest eradication. They would not be disappointed!
With a slight swell running, we took Chris’ secret reef entrance to get everyone safely ashore amongst the bull kelp, just a short hop to Sandy Bay Sea lion colony. Half the group chose the shorter but no less exciting boardwalk to the north of the island, whilst the other half embarked on the ambitious but rewarding long walk around the east end of the island and back. Both groups were able to marvel at the megaherb gardens, unexpected NZ Sea lions and Yellow-eyed Penguins amongst the tussock grass, and breeding Light-mantled Sooty Albatross on the northern cliffs, in larger numbers than previous years which is an excellent sign. Several subantarctic Snipe entertained those on the long walk, as well as Red-fronted Parakeet, Tomtit, Tui and Bellbird.
The forest on the north-east point was a highlight of the trip for many, especially being able to compare the lush understory to that at Hardwicke where pigs are still present. The forest here was alive with sea lions, penguins, Tui, Bellbirds, Tomtits, megaherbs and flowering rata.
Another safe and efficient embarkation from the reef shelf had us all on board by 3 p.m. and an immediate departure northward to The Snares. We enjoyed presentations from Eden on Conservation Photography and a briefing from Alex on The Snares, with calls to ready by 5 a.m. for our arrival at The Snares.
© Heritage Expeditions
Day 7: Thursday 9th January
The Snares
The 5.45 a.m. call came to arise and enjoy the spectacle of thousands of Titi/Sooty Albatross heading from their burrows to the distant feeding grounds, whilst a decision was being made on launch or not in the prevailing swell. A test Zodiac was launched and it was all go.
Efficiently and safely 5 Zodiacs were loaded and the flotilla headed northward along the east coast of The Snares. As well as the Titi, we were surrounded by Cape Petrel, Diving Petrel, Buller’s Albatross and finally the Snares Crested Penguin appeared in the water and on the rock shelves. The swell itself made for excitement, swirling the Bull Kelp and sending the penguins scurrying back up the rocks. When we finally reboarded the vessel everyone was embarked onto the gangway safely with those on the last Zodiacs in receiving applause from the onlookers. The Zodiac drivers and the Russian crew assisting were greatly appreciated. And that was it, time to steam north into the lee of Stewart Island and calm overnight waters to prepare for disembarkation on the 10th.
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Day 8: Friday 10th January
Port of Bluff
Arriving in the Port of Bluff early in the morning, after a last breakfast we bid our farewells to the expedition team and boarded the coach to Invercargill city of airport.