1941: Galapagos of the Southern Ocean 3 December 2019

Day 1: Tuesday 3rd December
Invercargill

A very excited group of people arrived in Invercargill throughout the day, ready to start their big adventure to the subantarctic. Making our way to the Ascot Park Hotel we would spend our last night here on firm, dry land. Over dinner we met the other guests with whom we would be spending the next twelve days. We also met our intrepid Expedition Leader, Nathan Russ; he briefed us on the visit to Curio Bay tomorrow and our movements to join the ship in the Port of Bluff mid-afternoon.

Day 2: Wednesday 4th December
Curio Bay and Port of Bluff

With an afternoon embarkation, we had time for a planned excursion to Curio Bay, in the heart of The Catlins to see some iconic New Zealand scenery. We spent an hour and a half here exploring the petrified forest, a nature walk showcasing some of New Zealand’s natives – rimu, manuka, southern rata… we walked out to Porpoise Bay where playful Hectors Dolphins were enjoying the waves and sunshine, and we made our way through Curioscape – an interactive Information Centre with a 10 minute video of the history of The Catlins plus a display of petrified wood. At 12pm it was time to make our way back to the bus and start our journey to board the ship.

The bus pulled up beside the Akademik Shokalskiy at 3.15pm. We were welcomed on board by the expedition staff and it was straight to the bridge to complete border security procedures. Following that we found our rooms, had time for a little look around before gathering in the bar for scones, cream and jam! The rest of the afternoon was packed with briefings and a rehearsal of the lifeboat drill – the latter was an experience not to be missed, but hopefully not repeated!

Finally, the time came to leave port and we were on our way! The Pilot escorted us to the entrance of Bluff Harbour, and we waved our farewells.

Initially conditions were a little choppy but as we headed into the lee of Rakiura – the land of glowing skies – the ships motion began to settle down. The evening meal was served at 8pm – and after that there was time to spot a bird or two before the sun sank behind the wind-swept ranges of Stewart Island. Early to bed to get some rest before heading out into the Southern Ocean proper…

Day 3: Thursday 5th December
The Snares

Our course during the night took us west towards The Snares, we arrived there in time for breakfast at 7am. However due to the swell, many had not slept well and there were a few gaps at the tables. Once in the lee of the islands, we took the opportunity to get up on deck and take in the views. A lovely sunny morning with lots of bird activity. We spent a couple of hours here cruising along the edge of the island, spotting numerous Snares Crested Penguins in the water and on the ‘Penguin Slide’. We also saw Southern Giant Petrel, Salvin’s Albatross, Grey-headed Albatross and of course were always surrounded by Cape Petrels darting about the ship.

The trip south was still a little lively, with some large westerly rollers coming through, so no lectures took place. Instead those that were up for it got stuck into checking their gear for seeds – its surprising how longs this takes but most people had competed this task by 5pm. After another delicious meal produced by our chefs Tom and Jurgen we are all looking forward to reaching the shelter of the Auckland Islands late this evening, and a more restful sleep that will no doubt eventuate!

Day 4: Friday 6th December
Enderby Island, Auckland Islands

What a difference a day makes. This morning we woke to calm water on anchor off Enderby Island. Well rested, we had a hearty breakfast and prepared for our first trip ashore in the Zodiacs. This went very smoothly, the sea was calm with small waves on the beach. We were welcomed on to Sandy Bay by a small group of Hooker Sea Lions. After changing out of our gumboots, and removing life vests, we all set off across the island on a boardwalk initially up through stunted rata forest which was just coming into flower, and then across an alpine tundra type of habitat, with Bulbinella rossi in full bloom.

We marveled at Light-mantled Sooty Albatross nesting on the cliffs. A little further beyond this spectacular cliff top viewing point, our group split, with some taking time to wander back down to the beach, while the bulk of the group continued around the island in a clockwise fashion. We viewed other megaherbs that the Auckland Islands are renowned for, such as the carrot relative Anisotome latifolia which was just beginning to flower, and also the large leaved Stilbocarpa Polaris. The sun came out, and the temperature rose to a very pleasant 12 degrees or more as we continued around the coastline, witnessing Auckland Island Shags plying the coastline with nesting material cradled in their bills. Those in this group had their lunch disturbed in an amusing way by a somewhat playful, but slightly territorial Hooker Sea Lion.

One of the highlights of the day was seeing the first Hooker Sea Lion pup of the season – the first group were there in time to see skewers fighting over the afterbirth! It had a very proud and somewhat clumsy mother who rode right over it when a nosy young male came to investigate. Several people saw snipe and at least one fluffy new chick was observed, along with numerous teal.

Both parties were back on board the ship, anchored in flat clear water by late afternoon. Great day had by all, clearly some of us might need to be a little more sun-savvy – a bit of sunburn on a few faces! Great to unwind and share experiences in the bar this evening, followed by another delicious meal.

Day 5: Saturday 7th December
Hardwicke, Musgrave Inlet – Auckland Island

With a busy day ahead, we were up at 6:30am and off in the Zodiacs’ before breakfast. We made our way from our anchorage just off the main Auckland Island on to a small rocky beach, with an accompanying Hookers Sea Lion cruising the bay. For a short period in the 1840’s, this beach was used as a landing site by the pioneering folk of the settlement of Hardwicke. A short walk up a boardwalk through rata forest just starting to bloom took us to the small well maintained cemetery. A poignant moment for us all, reflecting on the tragedies that befell this short-lived small community. Shipwrecked sailors shared the site with a 3-month-old girl, who never new another world outside the island, and whose gravestone was engraved on a millstone provided by her grieving father. We also visited the Victoria Tree, an old rata stump starting to decay now, but still with a clear inscription carved into its trunk. We noted the fresh pig rooting in the moist soil just off the boardwalk, a reminder that this island is, for the time being, not the predator free pristine environment that is the case for neighboring Enderby Island to the north.

We were back on the ship for a sumptuous breakfast, followed by a short cruise around to Musgrave Inlet. We then loaded in to all five Zodiacs to explore the coastline. It was thrilling to observe Sooty Albatross in a nest high on the cliff. Further along, keeping just far enough off shore to avoid entangling the Zodiac propellers in the masses of kelp attached to the rocky coastline, we observed several groups of Rockhopper Penguins, slightly smaller than the Yellow-eyed Penguins seen yesterday with their characteristic feathered “eyebrows”, and a number of Auckland Island Shags. We then skimmed across the bay where we entered a large cavern, a feature of the volcanic coastline. Our voices echoed along with the sounds of the sea surging in and out. Much to our surprise, another geological wonder awaited us: a large arch through which we entered an enclosed pool, big enough to take all five Zodiacs! Vegetation hung from the sides and swung in the gentle breeze. This was a very special experience but not the last – just outside the arch was another navigable cave. This one was long and narrow with a relatively low ceiling. It was quite hard to make out the end in the darkness. This made for an exciting end to a spectacular Zodiac cruise.

Then it was back on the ship for lunch. The captain then set a course south, so that we could explore the inner reaches of Carnley Harbour, technically a large channel of ocean separating the main Auckland Island with predator-free Adams Island. By late afternoon, it was time to leave the relative shelter of the Auckland Island group, setting a course for a new landscape, Macquarie Island to the southwest.

As predicted, the seas become more turbulent and Nathan was forced to take a gentler route while tea was served, but it wasn’t long before we were back on track to our southern most destination!

Day 6: Sunday 8th December
At Sea to Macquarie Island

Breakfast was served at 8.30 today which gave everyone a good sleep-in. The day dawned clear with light winds and a gentle swell – ideal conditions for the 36hr journey to Macquarie Island. Morgan Coleman presented the first lecture for the trip, giving a round up of the geological, natural and cultural history of all the islands on the expedition. This was followed by a lecture from Kate on Macquarie Island where we gained an insight into life on the island – wildlife and human!

After lunch a fascinating documentary on the eradication of cats, rabbits and mice was screened – this feat was an amazing achievement for conservation and heightened our excitement about stepping foot on Macquarie. As we continued our journey south, some were lucky enough to glimpse a small pod of dolphins, possibly Hector Dolphins, whilst a whale was also spotted briefly by a couple of folk spouting in the distance. We also got a chance to visit the Sea Shop in the afternoon to peruse a selection of souvenir items and some excellent books on the subantarctics, and also to go over the quarantine process again to ensure we do not carry any seeds on to Macquarie Island, our next destination. The swell had reduced a little by late afternoon, allowing us to spend a little time on deck to admire the prowess of albatross species, including Southern Royal, Salvin’s and Sooty, along with smaller silver prions.

Day 7: Monday 9th December
Sandy Bay, Macquarie Island

After a full day at sea, everyone was rearing to set foot on Macquarie Island! But first Nathan, Kate and Phil needed to pick up our guides from Buckles Base. Andrea, Billy, Stella and Mark were welcomed aboard with a gift of fresh fruit – something they hadn’t seen in many months!

The captain then took the ship along the southern coastline and dropped anchor off Sandy Bay. Two Zodiacs were used to shuttle everyone to the beach, and although there was a modest breeze blowing, the landing was relatively straight forward. And what a sight awaited us – King Penguins and Southern Elephant Seals in all directions, skuas and giant petrels, and coming down from a substantial breeding colony, hundreds of Royal Penguins.

Nathan advised having a look at both ends of the beach before finding a spot to settle down in – that way the wildlife would come to us, and that’s exactly what happened. The King Penguins were particularly inquisitive, walking up to us quizzically – sometimes taking a peck at our packs or clothing. So too were the ‘weaners’, young elephant seal pups. And these guys are so lovable with there big dark eyes and soft cuddly bodies. In the King Penguin colony, the down-covered large chicks appeared like old men in brown dressing gowns. It was apparent that the Royal Penguin chicks were noticeably less developed – they still huddled under their parent for warmth and protection from the ever-present gaze of skua, always ready to grab a warm snack should the opportunity arise.

Macquarie Island runs on island time – two hours behind ship time. Hence once back on the ship in warm dry clothes, we had a reasonably late lunch today. While dining, the captain piloted the ship south, anchoring just off Lusitania Bay, the site of the world’s largest Royal Penguin colony. Unfortunately, the weather had deteriorated, so we were unable to board the Zodiacs to approach the shore a little closer. However, we did have a great Q&A session with our hosts from Macquarie Station who were able to answer many of our questions about anything related to Macquarie Island, thus providing some valuable context to this morning’s activities.

In the evening, those braving the cool, damp weather were rewarded with great views of orca cruising the coastline.

Day 8: Tuesday 10th December
Lusitania Bay, Macquarie Island

Wow! For some of us, today would have to rank as the highlight of an already outstanding adventure. We were up at 5:30am, and away in the Zodiacs by 6am for the first activity of the day. We ventured towards Lusitania Bay, and spent almost an hour quietly cruising along the shoreline taking in the breath-taking expanse of the huge King Penguin colony. Situated smack bang in the middle of which stood the rusted hulks of two digesters, once used to process penguins and extract the oil they were once valued for a stark reminder of a bygone era. We observed other wildlife of course, including a white morph of a Southern Giant Petrel. On arriving back at the ship, a delicious breakfast was once again waiting for us.

The captain meanwhile took the ship north along the coastline, where upon we anchored just off Buckles Bay. So lucky with the weather! The weather held for us as we set off in the Zodiacs once more accompanied by our hosts from AAD (Australian Antarctic Division). We then spent a fabulous few hours being guided around the sites by one of our hosts Initially we hiked up to a lookout that afforded spectacular views looking over the isthmus and the base facility, and also with great views to the east and west. Giant petrels rode the stiff westerly breeze. We then wandered back down and across the isthmus to the west coast; quite a different outlook, with a choppy blue ocean, and different wildlife to observe. We had excellent views of a colony of endemic Macquarie Island Shags still actively constructing their nests on a rocky outcrop. Less than 50m away was a breeding colony of Gentoo Penguins, less common on Macquarie Island than their cousins. Large chicks accompanied by mature birds were gathered near the breaking waves. We of course saw plenty of elephant seals during the day, with their oh so expressive faces, but also a couple of New Zealand Fur Seals (including one cute little pup!) that have established a small breeding colony on the northern tip of the island.

Finally, we went into the dining room at the Australian base for a tea/coffee and delicious scone (or 2!). Just before departing, the opportunity arose to witness the weather balloon being released, with an accompanying brief from one of the staff. A brief shower arrived just as we set out on the return journey for the Akademik Shokalskiy.

A chance to unwind, and have a sumptuous lunch and then we joined Matt Vance for an informative lecture on the Southern Ocean, and his argument that the part of the globe we currently are voyaging through is the “beating heart of the planet”. A pleasant evening had by all either in the bar or in our cabins comparing and sharing photographs.

Day 9: Wednesday 11th December
At Sea to Campbell Island

Phil presented the first lecture for the day – A Rangers Life which described his experiences working with albatross on both Adams and Campbell Islands. This was followed by a lecture on the plants of the subantarctic by Kate.

Later in the day we were privileged to hear from all young explorers outlining how they would like to make a difference following their trip to the Sub-Antarctic Islands – these insightful perspectives were well received.

Not long after our evening meal the rugged faces of the southern coast of Campbell Island came into view, and we had a lovely evening watching the light on the bluffs change as the sun went down.

The ship dropped anchor around 10:20pm in the calm waters of Perseverance Harbour after a full day at sea.

Day 10: Thursday 12th December
Campbell Island

We woke to a lovely subantarctic day – a light overcast and a gentle wind. After an in-depth briefing from Nathan on the options for the day, we divided into groups, grabbed our packed lunches and headed for the gangway. The first crew out the door had Northwest Hut in their sights; Phil led out with Morgan bringing up the rear. The first challenge was to get past the feisty male at the landing, and with a little help from Julian, the group managed to sneak around without him realizing. We saw our first Campbell Island Snipe and teal at Tucker Cove – a great start to the day!

The next section of track was in good condition having been cut by the Navy in the last few weeks. Once out of the dracophyllum forest we walked across turf land dotted with Bulbinela rossii – a highlight was seeing some beautiful Anisotome latifolia in flower.

Not far from the top we came across a number of nesting Southern Royal Albatross with some good opportunities for photographs. Then as we stepped onto the ridge, Dent Island and the dramatic west coast lay before us. After a quick stop for photos we climbed to the highpoint before descending down the limestone ridge to Capstan Cove. This was an enjoyable leg of the journey with tall tussocks to navigate, deep trenches to slide down, and a good dollop of mud! We also saw several giant petrel chicks, a possible Cape Pigeon nest and another snipe.

We enjoyed a quick lunch at Capstan Cove, along with a grumpy sealion, several elephant seals and a number of giant petrels. Then it was off up through the windblown dracophyllum forest to Northwest Hut. Everyone was pleased to have made it, and surprised at how quickly we had travelled.

After a few wrong-turns, we hit the fence that led up through the scrub to the tussock. By now the cloud was lifting and we were all getting quite hot! Once we had gained a reasonable amount of altitude, we followed a contour back towards Perseverance Harbour. On the way we witnessed a beautiful courtship dance between two albatross’, another building its nest, and in the distance we heard another group calling. We also came across a male teal that held his ground while we circled around him.

We stopped for a bite to eat at Cave Rock on our way down to Camp Cove. According to Nathan this site was designated as an emergency shelter during the war, should the enemy show up – fortunately they never did.

The last leg of the trip was straightforward having been freshly cut by the Navy, however a number of us managed to slip and slide our way down – resulting in some rather muddy outfits!

After a look at the loneliest tree in the world, we boarded the Zodiac and Nathan shuttled us back to the ship. What a great day – no rain, lots of birds and fantastic view – we couldn’t have wished for more!

Meanwhile, Nathan led the remaining short walking group on an upper harbour Zodiac cruise. Within minutes we had sighted our first Campbell Island Flightless Teal, which was one of about 15 seen through the day. This is a great sign that the teal population is in recovery.

A short stop at Tucker Cove enabled us to walk up to the remains of the old Coastwatcher’s hut and experience the Draco forest. The Zodiac cruise was concluded with a short visit to the Ranfurly tree in Camp Cove.

After another great lunch back at the ship we embarked on a walk to the top of Col Lyall via the boardwalk. With the sun coming out and the albatross commencing their afternoon socializing it was one to remember. By 7pm we were all back on board for dinner and a blissful sheltered water sleep.

Brian Gepp felt inspired enough to write the following poem worthy of inclusion in this log. Thanks Brian!

“May the winds cleanse my soul
May your marvels nourish my heart
As the plants of the earth reach for the sky
May this be a lesson to stand tall
May your process provide guidance for living
Striving leads to survival and success”

And just to complete a great day, that evening we enjoyed a lovely sunset.

Day 11: Friday 13th December
At Sea

Akademik Shokalskiy weighed anchor around 5am and by breakfast time the Campbell Island group was out of sight. During the morning the swell picked up, so most people took the opportunity to read or rest in bed – still there were a few keen souls who kept a lookout for birds. Before lunch a documentary on the Campbell Island eradication program was screened – at the time this was one of the most challenging eradication projects undertaken and its success resulted in the reestablishment of pipit, teal and snipe on the main island.

After lunch Phil gave a presentation on the Department of Conservation’s partnership approach to landscape restoration. In particular he talked about the 310,000ha project centered around Aoraki/Mt Cook, and the proposed eradication of pigs, feral cats and mice from Auckland Islands.

Later that afternoon Morgan gave a presentation on Adelie Penguins. Included was a short video that detailed the logistical challenges of working in such a remote and challenging environment. Adelie Penguins were described as the “canary in the coalmine” as they are very sensitive to change in environmental conditions.

Most people took the opportunity to go to bed early given the forecast for increasing swell.

Day 12: Saturday 14th December
At Sea to Port of Bluff

Breakfast at 8am after a bouncy and restless night for some. The first activity for the day was a video on scientific research being conducted on Heard Island, Australia’s second Subantarctic Island. Following that, many took the opportunity to step outside and view the sea and birdlife in warmer conditions – even a little sun.

Stewart Island was sighted mid-afternoon and gradually the swell began to settle out until the ship was barely rolling at all. This allowed everyone to return our boots, life jackets and check that our gear was in a fit state to enter New Zealand following our adventures in the Southern Ocean!

Late in the afternoon, we gathered in the lecture room one last time for a debrief of our expedition. Nathan went over the trip, and pointed out that by the time we reach the Port of Bluff tomorrow, we will have travelled just a tad under 1,500 nautical miles. Kate then played a slide show with a collection of images from our trip – wow we have seen some amazing places! We were all given a copy of the presentation on a memory stick, great memoir to have.

Dinner tonight was a really flash affair, Jurgen and Tom had pulled out all the stops! After dinner, many of us gathered in the bar one last time for a drink and a cheese board, with an assortment of fine New Zealand cheeses. Still some packing to go before we will be ready for an early start tomorrow!

Day 13: Sunday 15th December
Port of Bluff

A day of mixed emotions – fantastic memories, new friends and farewells. We were underway around 5am for our rendezvous with the pilot. It was overcast and began to drizzle as we arrived in Bluff – not unlike when we left on our adventure. One last cooked breakfast, border control, the final pack down of rooms, down the gangway, brief heartfelt goodbyes and we were on the bus back to Invercargill.

Thank you to all involved, staff, crew, and the great team of adventurers that made this trip an experience of a lifetime.