1963: Galapagos of the Southern Ocean 1 December 2019
© A. Rheborg
Day 1: Sunday 1 December
Dunedin
Passengers gathered from New Zealand and overseas this afternoon, arriving at the Distinction Dunedin Hotel during the day in expectations of the great adventure that lay ahead. Some were a little apprehensive of how their sea legs would fair as they remembered stories of the tempestuous latitudes of the Roaring Forties and Furious Fifties, also known as the Albatross Latitudes and with good reason. This evening we joined some of the members of the expedition team for a group dinner and a briefing for tomorrow mornings early departure from the Port of Dunedin.
Day 2: Monday 2 December
Dunedin to The Snares
Guests boarded the ship on a beautiful sunny day in southern New Zealand, and after all the luggage was stowed, we set sail south for the Subantarctic Islands. Shortly afterwards welcome briefings were held and introductions were made, and then mandatory drills occurred to comply with international law. A welcome drink was served in the bar while we were still in relative protection from the New Zealand South Island.
In the afternoon, as guests rested and recuperated from journeys far and wide, an entertaining and informative lecture on albatross was held to help identify some of the large birds wheeling around behind the ship in the sun. For those out on deck and on the bridge as the ship set sail we started our bird list in earnest with several Northern Royal Albatross seen sitting on their nests at Taiaroa Head, here at their only mainland breeding site. There was also a hundred plus pairs of Otago Shags nesting on a rocky slope further down the hill.
Other species seen during the course of the day included Northern Giant, Cape, Cook’s and White-chinned Petrels, Southern Royal, Salvin’s, White-capped and a possible Gibson’s Wandering Albatross, Fairy Prions and Sooty Shearwaters. Mammals seen en route included Dusky Dolphins, New Zealand Fur Seals and best of all were the Hector’s Dolphins seen near Taiaroa Head.
This evening lamb and salmon were served for a wonderful first dinner onboard.
© A. Rheborg
Day 3: Tuesday 3 December
Arrival at The Snares, Zodiac cruise around The Snares and departure to Auckland Island
After a relatively smooth first night at sea, we came upon The Snares winking in and out of view amid rain squalls. The ship was rocking a good deal on the northern side of the islands, but fortunately we found protection on the southern side. Most of the passengers got a good introduction to subantarctic conditions getting into the Zodiacs as they bounced up and down metres amid strong gusts of wind – talented crew and expedition team made it happen though and soon the Zodiacs were off in search of endemic birds.
The Snares Crested Penguins were sighted first in the water in great rafts, and then spotted onshore, just the other side of large southern ocean swells breaking on the rocks. Although landing on the islands is not permitted, we cruised as close to the shoreline as the swell would allow with several small group of Snares Crested Penguins seen hunting in the sea and standing on the rocks close by. We had excellent looks at Buller’s and Salvin’s Albatross which also breed here as well as Brown Skua and Antarctic Tern. Several New Zealand Fur Seals were observed and a large bull Hooker’s Sea Lion was watched hunting the penguins, trying to get in a penguin lunch at the base of the colony.
We bounced off back to the ship in time for lunch, and set sail south for the Auckland Islands while we were entertained with lectures and completed biosecurity preparations. We motored towards the Auckland Islands with our arrival time expected to be around midnight. En route we saw many pelagic species including really nice views of Sothern Royal, Salvin’s, White-capped and Campbell Albatross and many great views of Northern Giant, White-chinned and Mottled Petrel, several Fairy Prion and Black-bellied Storm-petrel.
© A. Rheborg
© A. Chavanne
Day 4: Wednesday 4 December
Enderby Island, Auckland Islands
To those in the know, it was unusual to feel the ship rocking at anchor in front of Enderby Island when we woke. The reason for this was an uncommon easterly swell that put up breaking waves on Sandy Bay beach, and made the expedition team question their plans for the day. We ended up going for it and a good thing we did, sunshine graced our faces for the better part of the day as we explored Sandy Bay and went on hikes around the island.
We had to contend with a young male Hooker’s Sea Lion as we landed on the beach which kept us on our toes. We divided into three groups, 2 short walking groups along the boardwalk to the Northern Cliffs and one group who continued on from the boardwalk to circum-navigate the whole island. Many of the Yellow-eyed Penguins were seen on shore, we were delighted at seeing 17 on our beach landing walking to and from the sea and nearly everyone was able to spot the endemic snipe and Auckland Island Flightless Teal in the tussock grass. Other more numerous species included the Auckland Island subspecies of Tomtit, New Zealand Bellbird, Tui and Banded Plover. We also enjoyed great close looks at a few pairs of the beautiful Light-mantled Sooty Albatross and distant views of nesting Southern Royal Albatross.
The long walkers enjoyed a good leg stretch, battling bush and tussock as they worked their way around the island, while the shorter walks had interesting experiences with the local New Zealand Falcon pair which dive-bombed them on several occasions (possibly telling us that it had chicks on a nest nearby). All the main bird targets were seen as well as a small colony of White-fronted and Antarctic Terns.
At the end of the day, everyone got out in the Zodiacs for a short cruise along the cliffs where Auckland Island Shags were nesting to cap off a wonderful day in the Auckland Islands.
© A. Rheborg
© A. Rheborg
© A. Chavanne
Day 5: Thursday 5 December
Musgrave Inlet & Tagua Bay, Auckland Islands
The day started off with shafts of sunlight piercing rain laden clouds on the horizon outside of Musgrave Inlet. As we cruised in, the swell of the ship subsided, and we boarded the Zodiacs for a pre breakfast cruise. Rockhopper Penguins were getting up as well, and we spotted many on the rocks amid lush subantarctic vegetation. Several birds were seen hopping on the rocks and entering the sea to go hunting for food. Completing a circuit, we set off to explore several caves in the volcanic cliffs before heading back for a deserved breakfast. We had further good views of Auckland Island Shag and Auckland Island Teal.
During breakfast, the ship repositioned to Tagua Bay in Carnley Harbor, named after the ship that dropped off the first Coastwatcher’s on Auckland Island. We set off in their footsteps amid the Rata forest and explored the myriad avenues made by sea lions over moss and under trees. We hiked to the historical Coastwatcher huts that were manned to watch for enemy warships. Good views out to Figure of Eight Island were had from the lookout on the knoll, before we popped inside the Coastwatcher’s hut. Tui, Bellbird and Tomtit were seen on the hike as well as a lone male Hooker’s Sea Lion resting in the forest. Slipping and sliding down the track back to the Zodiacs we headed back to the ship for lunch and sailed out into the lumpy water of the Southern Ocean, heading south to Macquarie Island. Birds seen as we sailed south en route included hundreds of Antarctic Prions with only a few Fairy Prions, Light-mantled, Southern Royal and Gibson’s Wandering Albatross, White-chinned and White-headed Petrel and the tiny Black-bellied Storm-petrel.
© A. Rheborg
© A. Rheborg
Day 6: Friday 6 December
At sea to Macquarie Island
The day was spent at sea today. Thoughts and pictures were digested as we bounced our way south. The sea was quite rough in the morning, and many had a hard time sleeping, but the weather moderated throughout the day and by the evening people were up and about watching the numerous albatross fly around the ship. Lectures were held, and biosecurity was completed as we crossed over into Australian territory. The sea shop was also opened for a spell, souvenirs and books could be purchased as tokens of a trip to these southern islands. Seabirds today included Light-mantled, Southern Royal, Campbell, White-capped, Gibson’s Wandering and Grey-headed Albatross, Cape Petrel, Black-bellied Storm-petrel, Antarctic Prion and Northern Giant Petrels.
© A. Rheborg
Day 7: Saturday 7 December
A big day for all passengers with a visit to Macquarie Island
At around three in the morning, the ship became quieter as the anchor dropped and the engines were switched off. A slow roll continued to lull people to sleep, something some of us have developed a liking to. A glorious day we awoke to, but a deceiving one at that. Despite the calm wind conditions, a sneaky swell continued to keep the ship rolling and after picking up the rangers, we decided to go down to Sandy Bay to avoid the large breaking surf at Buckles Bay. South we went, and found slightly better conditions off our planned landing beach. Despite tricky gangway conditions, we all managed to get off the ship, and arrived at a wildlife spectacle onshore. Hundreds of penguins and elephant seals littered the beach, making it difficult in places to move. Hours were then spent strolling amongst the penguins, watching newly hatched chicks cry for food, and elephant seals writhe along the beach. Hundreds of King Penguins were at the breeding colony with many cute and fluffy brown chicks. There were also the punky hairdo Royal Penguins, several hundred of which birds were seen at close range. Overwhelming or simply awesome, some just sat while animals came past and regarded them as if they were just another sort of funny looking animal. Other species recorded today included Light-mantled and Black-browed Albatross, Common Redpoll, Song Thrush, European Starling and the elegant Antarctic Terns. A happy group of wildlife enthusiasts returned back onboard negotiating another lively gangway transfer from Zodiacs to ship.
After lunch we headed for a ships cruise of Lusitania Bay, site of a large King Penguin colony to witness many thousands more King Penguin, an absolute highlight of the day. On the way, Orca were spotted and we followed along as they cruised in shore looking for unaware elephant seal pups. The conditions in the evening continued to improve, and upon reaching the bay we were able to get off for a calm Zodiac cruise in front of the colony and amid rafts of curious King Penguins. After the cruise we hauled up anchor and sailed for the north end of the island to spend the night off the Australian Antarctic Divisions base.
© A. Rheborg
© A. Rheborg
© A. Chavanne
© A. Rheborg
Day 8: Sunday 8 December
Macquarie Island and departure for Campbell Island
The day dawned dark and stormy, and despite a breeze blowing, we got everyone off this morning to shore for a tour around the Buckles Bay station. Approaching the beach on Zodiacs at Buckles Bay, we could already see several penguins in the grassy areas nearby. No sooner had we walked on shore and we were enjoying fabulous views of two Gentoo Penguins. Here we met several rangers from the ANARE Station. Many large elephant seals kept us entertained while they battled for supremacy and many large-eyed pups were photographed. We walked up to Razor Back Ridge for a view over the north end of the island, then down along roads littered with immature elephant seals, gaping as we passed. We walked further along the trail visiting a colony of breeding Gentoo Penguin and found several of the endemic Macquarie Island Shags nesting on a rocky hill as well as several stunning white-morph Southern Giant and a few Northern Giant Petrels.
We walked around the perimeter of the station and saw penguins, seals and the numerous buildings that house the rangers and scientific staff year round. We were invited in for tea and scones, some of the best scones in the Southern Ocean if this author were asked for an opinion. The wind had continued to rise throughout the tour and we were called back to the landing site early, the Zodiacs took guests back to the ship in wet and windy conditions. Everyone made it back onboard safely as the rangers in yellow waved goodbye. The ship heaved anchor once again and we set off north for Campbell Island enjoying great looks at a group of hunting Orca steaming up ahead. The afternoon journey was enlivened by Southern Royal and Grey-headed Albatross, Antarctic and Broad-billed Prions, another awesome day!
© A. Rheborg
© A. Rheborg
Day 9: Monday 9 December
At sea to Campbell Island
As the sea continued to calm after the storm near Macquarie Island, life onboard became as sunny as the skies above. People danced down the stairs with clothing to be checked off for biosecurity, and the hallways and bar was buzzing with happy people sharing stories of the expedition and getting to know each other.
Lectures were held, and guests spent the day resting, downloading pictures, and digesting memories. Birds today included Southern Royal and Gibson’s Wandering, Campbell, White-capped, Light-mantled Sooty and Grey-headed Albatross, Mottled, Soft-plumaged and White-headed Petrels, Antarctic Prion, Black-bellied and Grey-backed Storm-petrel. Priscilla, Queen of the Desert was shown in the lecture theatre to wide acclaim, and people slept soundly as we entered the protection of Campbell Island near midnight.
© A. Chavanne
Day 10: Tuesday 10 December
Campbell Island visit
The ship lay anchored in Perseverance Harbour when we awoke, and many on the ship had the best night’s sleep on the whole voyage. A number of options were available on this rather misty day, from a long walk around to Northwest Bay and back, to a Zodiac cruise around the protected inner harbour of Perseverance Bay to the option of heading up the Col Lyall Saddle boardwalk and viewing albatross and megaherbs endemic to the island.
Those on the longer day walk reported many albatross were seen, with the majority of Southern Royal Albatross breeding here, and several eggs were also spotted. The islands moss and lichen flora was photographed extensively after the lichen lecture the day before.
During the morning Zodiac cruise we found the very rare and flightless Campbell Island Teal, recovering in numbers due to the eradication of introduced predators. We also found small numbers of nesting Light-mantled Sooty Albatross and small groups of roosting Campbell Island Shags. Mammals seen included several New Zealand (Hooker’s) Sea Lion and to top it off we paid a visit to the “Loneliest tree in the World”.
After lunch we headed up the boardwalk on the Col Lyall track to a higher elevation, first walking through dense scrub where several New Zealand Pipits were seen. Higher up, near the top, we came across our first Southern Royal Albatross, a few birds were nesting close to the boardwalk, a highlight for all of the group of this magnificent seabird at its breeding grounds. Shortly afterwards we located a pair of Campbell Island Snipe. Fantastic views were had by everyone on multiple occasions as the track weaved its way through the vegetation and paused several times in the open. With a heavy mist and high winds we headed back to the ship for a welcome dinner.
The sauna was turned on in the afternoon ready to warm up worn out but smiling guests returning dripping wet from their respective daily outings. We had one day more at Campbell to look forward to.
© A. Rheborg
© A. Rheborg
© A. Rheborg
Day 11: Wednesday 11 December
Campbell Island
For some, the day started near dawn. A small group of intrepid hikers set out after a continental breakfast to hike up the tallest mountain on Campbell Island, Mt Honey. Soon after they got ashore, everyone else had a nice hot breakfast; the level of excitement was high due to a sunny forecast. As the Mt Honey hikers were passing their first albatross, a number of people went up the boardwalk after hiking around to Northwest Bay the day before. For those keen on another Zodiac cruise, one was offered out to Stillwater Bay to see a colony of Rockhopper Penguins. Everyone was back onboard by noon after a wonderful day of outings. All in all, everyone had a good time with many exciting viewing opportunities. The Mt Honey hikers found a Campbell Island Snipe with chick near the summit. The Zodiac cruise produced fabulous views of several albatross species and fantastic coastline views and the Col Lyall walkers found Campbell Island Snipe and enjoyed close looks at nesting Southern Royal Albatross and clear views of Dent Island.
Lunch was enjoyed in the protection of Perseverance Bay, and the dining rooms were buzzing with energy and full of smiling faces. After lunch we lifted anchor and started our run to Invercargill but not before enjoying a feeding frenzy of sea lion and Campbell Island Shags hunting fish along-side the ship. Once we reached the ocean outside the bay, we enjoyed fabulous views of Southern Royal, Campbell Island and Grey-headed Albatross, Cape Petrels, Black-bellied Storm-petrel and Northern Giant Petrel. As the ship sailed north along the Campbell Island coastline and was out of the lee of the island the familiar rolling we had become accustomed to began again and most went off to take a nap. A lecture on plastic pollution was held later in the afternoon, otherwise ship life was pretty quiet for the rest of the day as the ship tossed about in confused seas.
© A. Chavanne
© A. Chavanne
© A. Chavanne
Day 12: Thursday 12 December
At sea to Port of Bluff
A full day of activities were planned for this last day at sea. The sea calmed throughout the day, as lectures were held and disembarking guests were briefed. A steady stream of birds continued to follow us towards Invercargill and included Southern Royal, White-capped, Campbell Albatross, Northern Giant Petrel, White-chinned and Cape Petrel and Fairy Prion. Accounts were settled this afternoon and the slideshow was viewed in the lecture theatre in the evening, before a lively bar hour. The farewell dinner was served to usual high acclaim, and guests gathered in the bar after their meals to share stories over a large cheese platter. The Spirit of Enderby arrived in port late in the evening, and we spent a restful night alongside.
Day 13: Friday 13 December
Disembarkation Port of Bluff
A misty day greeted us for the early and final wake up call from Judd, “Good morning good people…” A hearty breakfast was served, and then guests made their way off in separate directions around the world. From Heritage Expeditions, we thank you for joining us on this adventure, we wish you safe travels onward, and hope to see you again soon.