1955: Indonesian Explorer 30 September 2019

Day 1: Monday 30 September
Sorong, Indonesia

Spirit of Enderby waited at anchor primed and ready for voyagers to embark at the Port of Sorong and join her on the first tropical sailing of the season and our maiden 'Indonesian Explorer' expedition.

Our departure from Sorong included a few bureaucratic hurdles, these are never wanted but when doing things for the first time they are unfortunately not unexpected. Once all were aboard and accounted for, Spirit of Enderby pulled out of the port under the cover of darkness on a calm and still evening on our way towards Misool, located at the southern end of Raja Ampat and our destination for the first day.

Day 2: Tuesday 1 October
Misool Island

Forty four keen expeditioners set out on their new adventure on Misool Island in West Papua, Indonesia. First we completed all our safety briefings with a lifeboat exercise, staff introductions, and an introduction to snorkeling. Immediately the boat was buzzing with excitement at what lay ahead and after lunch we eagerly loaded up the Zodiacs to hike at Karawapop, a rarely visited island. There were dozens of towering and twisting plants along the trail including enormous Screw Pine (Pandanus sp.) and tall Cycads. A male Stick insect was found resting on some Pandanus along our decent, reminding us to keep our eyes on the wonders which may line our paths. Soon we found other interesting plants including carnivorous Pitcher Plants. The winding hike revealed further rewards near the top where our lookout was over a heart-shaped cove. The crystal blue waters thinly veiled the edges of coral around the limestone islands and the bird’s eye view brought us nearly eye level with a coasting Sea Eagle.

After our sweaty hike, we were ready for lunch. We returned to the ship where everyone enjoyed delicious meals prepared by our chefs and then explored around the ship, getting to know our crew and staff through conversations. Soon enough though, everyone was well fed and ready to jump in the water. We all grabbed our snorkeling gear and embarked on the Zodiacs for the first swim of the trip. We slid out of the Zodiacs and into the warm blue waters. Once immersed, we were all mesmerized by the diversity of corals and reef fish.

After cleaning ourselves up from snorkeling we all enjoyed a sunset Zodiac cruise where we saw more Sea Eagles and many Lesser Frigid Birds. At recap, Tim prepared us all with a short lecture on the mammals of Kofiau and the Kofiau Kingfisher. This region was once part of the Australian continent and many of its wildlife resembles the Aussie fauna. Tim also left us all buzzing with the lack of mammal records from Kofiau and how we may all contribute to research by making detailed observations on our visit.

Day 3: Wednesday 2 October
Kofiau Island

Today was started off with a fantastic jungle walk near a local village in Kofiau to a freshwater lake. On the trail we saw Paper-kite butterflies, an ant-mimicking tiger beetle, the Kofiau Monarch, and many other amazing plants and animals. After the jungle walk, we ventured through a local village to spot for birds and meet some of the smiling locals. Everyone was taking many photos and exploring the island in case we came across any signs of mammals. Tim Flannery did the same and then went to meet with the head of the village to discuss any mammal sightings as this island had only one record of a mammal. His inquisition gave him great notes for his study on the region and then a young Northern Cuscus, a type of possum, was found in the village where it was likely kept as a pet. Right before we departed a large group of kids surrounded us to show us this creature which became a new mammal record for the island.

A Sacred Kingfisher was spotted by the birders and made their new list of observations for the trip in the village. We also heard the calls of Dusky Scrub Fowl and some White Ducks flew overhead along with Herons, a Spotted Kestrel, and later some noisy Eclectus Parrots. Our search for mammals of Kofiau was not finished however, and later in the evening we ventured out for a night Zodiac cruise. First we enjoyed the sunset and stunning limestone islands, but once night descended, a buzz of activity was seen overhead. Roughly 6 different species of bats were seen including Blossom Bats that were feeding on flowers just on the coast. A large Flying Fox was also seen briefly as it zoomed over our Zodiacs and everyone was excited for all the new records.

Dan finished off the evening recounting all the spectacular bird sightings and then Tim shared his joy at managing to record some new records for Kofiau. This island had been previously inaccessible during his previous expeditions, but the Heritage Team was gladly able to contribute to the scientific records of this remote area.

Day 4: Thursday 3 October
Alyui and Wayag

After all of our walking, everyone was thrilled to begin the day with a snorkel in a nicely sheltered beach with steep limestone cliffs on both sides. An isolated sandy beach with an adjacent small island provided a stunning location to start the mornings activities. Branching and Table Corals created a large reef plateau to one side and extended down the steep drop-off on the other. Soft Corals, invertebrates and Calcareous Algae filled in every nook and cranny and the diversity of marine life present was astounding. Among the diverse range of invertebrate species were large Barrel and Tube Sponges and a wall of Tunicates. A banded Sea Krait cruised along, and true to its inquisitive nature, checked out the snorkelers. A Peacock Mantis Shrimp was busy pounding the reef and a Crocodile Flatfish waited patiently in camouflage to ambush its prey. We made the most of every last minute before heading back to the ship to set sail for Wayag Islands.

Everyone ventured to the front of the ship to celebrate us crossing over the equator. As the ship cut through the water, little flying fish glided over the water alongside us. Once at the new cluster of islands we Zodiac cruised through the coves where we saw a Kingfisher and some Birdwing Butterflies in the treetops. We then came ashore to a beach where a steep trail led us to the summit of one of the limestone mountains. Sweaty, but smiling we were treated to an unbelievable view of lovely blue waters and a Dolphin was seen jumping out of the water. Others saw Manta Rays in the clear water and some of the snorkelers below on the beach. On our way back to the ship we saw Indo-Pacific Humpback Dolphins and the Indo-Pacific Bottlenose Dolphins was the perfect send-off from this little paradise.

Day 5: Friday 4 October
Waigeo and Snorkel Island

Today began early to view one of the highlights of the trip, our first Birds-of-paradise! Around 4:30am we set off to the shore of Waigeo where we then drove deep into the jungle and split into two groups. One went to observe the Wilson’s Bird-of-paradise while others ventured to a hide for the Red Bird-of-paradise and its higher lek sight. We all sat in silent awe as these mystical creatures revealed themselves. First the Wilson’s Bird-of-paradise appeared in his bower to clean up any fallen leaves in patient silence, while the second group had to hike along a long trail to reach the sight of Red Bird-of-paradise (RBP), which were loudly calling for females once we arrived. We all gathered under the hides to watch these bizarre birds perform their intricate dances. In the case of the RBP, the males were very successful with four females visiting the bower in one hour and most of them ending in success! As the sun rose, the colors of these birds became more brilliant and several of us remarked on how this wonder of the world has already made the trip worthwhile.

We walked out from these paths in awe and began birding along the forested road where we heard New Guinea Friarbirds calling. Later on we saw three Blythe’s Hornbills fly overhead as we walked down the Bird-of-paradise mountain. But soon we were rewarded with a restful mid-afternoon after the morning’s big adventures followed by a drift snorkel and the beach visit with local huts. Here we found an extensive bed of seagrass and adjacent reef which produced plenty to explore, with Catfish and Seahorse spotted amongst the seagrass. Around the corner staff dropped us into the water at the start of a reef wall and we slowly drifted along taking in the abundance of marine life along the way. The site was teeming with life and diverse Stony Corals completely encompassed the reef. Several new fish species were observed including a Barracuda, schooling Trevally and the large Titan Triggerfish. A delighted few also experienced a resting Hawksbill Turtle on the reef.

By the end of the day we had experienced many wonders on land, and in the sea, and our recap was full of great sightings. We also learned from our agent, Ferdinand that our morning guides for the birds had prepared the hides we used specifically for us. They had all worked hard to make them well placed and large enough to fit our groups. These hides were very well built and well suited for photography, so a big round of applause in appreciation was given.

Day 6: Saturday 5 October
Amsterdam Island

Another brilliantly beautiful day began off the coast of Amsterdam Island. We took the Zodiacs to shore for a day of walking and snorkeling and were met with a warm and exciting welcome by the locals. Women were dancing onshore alongside a group of chanting men. Each man was adorned with a headdress made from Cassowary feathers and patterned with shells. After this welcome a drum group began a powerful march and guided us through the gateway to the village. The local man in charge of tourism gifted our Expedition Leader, Aaron with a welcome plate.

The group split up to explore the local village and crafts, to snorkeling in the brilliant blue waters, or to venture into the forest to search for birds. Along the walk we saw several exciting birds including a close fly-over by an Osprey. Various flying insects were seen visiting flowers and amongst them were Flower Wasps, Solitary Bees, and Leaf-mimicking Grasshoppers. We saw the remains of an old Dutch church and some of the interesting plants they had brought with them, while tropical trees towered around the ruins. Near the end of the walk we spotted some Green Blooded Skinks on a Coconut Palm. These skinks have green blood as it is copper based instead of iron based like most creatures.

While many were enjoying a nature walk and village visit ashore, several of us chose to head out for a snorkel along the fringing reef. Some large massive corals were very impressive, with schools of fish surrounding the structures. Numerous juvenile fish species were spotted and schools of Bluestripe Snapper and Mimic Goatfish were journeying around. Some Bluefin Trevally came in close to check us out, and further offshore dolphins were spotted moving through.

Back on board we had time for some great lectures. First Dan shared “An Introduction to Natural History of Papua,” which covered plate tectonics, sea temperatures and currents, and then covered some of the primary sites we’ve visited already in Raja Ampat and then places we are heading to like the Arfaks. Later on, we were treated to a lecture by Tim Flannery on mammals and his adventures through New Guinea. He shared his stories from his professors of the Highlands of New Guinea and their indigenous knowledge of the mammal fauna of the region. He then introduced us to some of the species which he discovered and described for science. These included Tree Kangaroos, Giant Rats, and Flying Foxes.

Day 7: Sunday 6 October
Arfak Mountains and Manokwari

A new record was set today with the earliest start on record for a Heritage Expeditions outing beginning with breakfast at 2:45am. Despite the early hour, everyone seemed excited by the wonders awaiting us in the mountains. First we had to venture up over 1000m in elevation though. Tim reminisced about his expedition experiences in the area and how it had previously taken him a week of hiking to reach the spot in the Arfak Mountains which we were all venturing to today, but now a four-wheel drive track was available and some skilled local drivers were able to caravan us to the top in two and a half hours! Once in the mountains, we split into small groups to make our ways to blinds near the bowers and lek sights of Birds-of-paradise.

Some ventured to view the Vogelkop Bowerbird with its impressive collection of blue objects, beetle elytra and an intricately built stick bower. Others had a chance to view the Magnificent Bowerbird with its cleared bower and striking feathers and many were lucky enough to see a male displaying for several females throughout the morning. Rainforest walks following our “blind sessions” revealed other treasurers of the forest as well including the Western Parotia, a Brown Sicklebill, and numerous Birdwing Butterflies. Some got close up views of the dazzling green butterflies, while others were overjoyed by their bird-sightings. As we stopped for our brunch, the largest Banana trees in the world towered over us and several people already began planning their return visit to this misty mountain.

Day 8: Monday 7 October
Cenderawasih and Kwatisore Village

We had another early, but very special start to the day to swim with the largest fish in the sea. Young male Whale Sharks were feeding on the by-catch from local fisherman’s Bangals and after scouting in the morning, we worked with Park Rangers to arrange this viewing of the sharks feeding near the fisherman’s Bangals. We each got to snorkel near the Whale Sharks in small groups and kept a safe, respectful distance from the amazing creature while we observed it feeding on small fish. Up to three different sharks came by and one curious shark swam near the Zodiacs, letting all the passengers get a close-up view. Everyone who got to swim with the gentle giant and everyone who saw it come by seemed to be left breathless. It was difficult to be pulled away, but great snorkeling awaited us on a nearby reef.

We didn’t stay out of the water for long and soon ventured over to a fantastic snorkel spot, Kalilemon. Landing on the beach we swam out to the reef wall across a seagrass bed, searching for Seahorses and other creatures along the way. The reef flats were covered in Giant Clams with a variety of brilliant colors and sizes. Mushroom Corals were scattered across the reef and the diversity of Stony Corals made for an exceptionally colorful backdrop. Two Crocodile Flathead Fish were detected by some keen eyes, camouflaged against the coral. There were also galleries of Anemones and an abundance of Clark’s Anemonefish. Just as we had a difficult time leaving the sharks, many of us wanted to be left on shore to continue exploring this exceptional secluded reef. Another amazing excursion awaited us in the afternoon though.

Re-fueled by lunch, we then all ventured to Kwatisore, a local village. The Zodiacs disembarked on the sandy banks to the village where local kids were dressed like Birds-of-paradise. Each kid took the hand of a passenger and escorted them onto shore as a group of men played drums, guitars, and a ukulele. Once we had all arrived, we were treated to a dance by the kids which told the story of the birds and the hunter. Grass-skirted kids with little bows and arrows circled the group of Birdy kids and then a chase began in the dance. Suddenly one bird was struck and the hunters immediately regretted the loss of this beautiful creature. Our local guide, Ferdinand explained that the villagers recognize the value of this amazing birds and do not want to loose them, so the bird hunting is now banned for them.

We thanked all the children for their amazing dance and enjoyed a bit more music from the men as we ventured back to the ship. Onboard before dinner, we celebrated the Whale Shark sightings, amazing coral reef and lovely village visit with some bubbly drinks for everyone.

Day 9: Tuesday 8 October
Poronai River, Totoburi Village, and Ahi Islands

Everyone enjoyed a lovely morning cruising along the Poronai River in the Zodiacs today. The overcast skies made for perfect conditions to view wildlife along the mangroves and river. First we saw several striking Great Egrets along the mudflats, and then we spotted a small Saltwater Crocodile reminding us to keep our hands and feet inside the Zodiac. Over ten Blythe’s Hornbills flew above us along our cruise and some lovely large butterflies including the Crow and Orchard Swallowtail crossed our paths. We maneuvered through logs and sunken trees in the river, finding a few settlements and a small group of people hunting mud-crabs. A couple of strong ladies were seen in an locally made canoe and they waved us by with smiles.

About 10km up the river we arrived at the Totoburi Village where we were greeted by the local village men. Kids ran and played around newly built canoes, constructed from large tree-trunks and insects hovered around the salts on their fishing nets. The small village was very neat and colorful with orchids growing outside many homes, and even more butterflies flitting through the village. We were all dazzled to see the large Orchard Swallowtails close-up and witness a pair of courting Eggfly Butterflies. The village had been settled in the 1980s and the area was found by some hunters. The locals told us they couldn’t remember exactly why they had settled here, but that it had been a prosperous and peaceful site for them to continue in.

We soon waved goodbye to all the villagers who were as interested to see us as we were to see them, and we made our way back down the river. After a bit of food and rest, we ventured to our snorkel site on an island inhabited by one friendly family who shared coconuts with us. The family also shared some of the island’s history including showing us the engines from two Japanese war planes which crashed on the island. Snorkelers found corals growing on debris from the plane. On the sandy patches of the reef Shrimps and Shrimpgobies could be seen excavating their holes and white Scorpionfish were camouflaged against the sand. Two Lionfish were cruising around the drop-off and Porcupine and Pufferfish were weaving amongst the coral. It was an extremely relaxing way to finish the days excursions.

Day 10: Wednesday 9 October
Biak and Rusbasbedas Island

We had another early start this morning for birders to venture out to Biak Island for a lowland forest walk. The early morning was fantastic for birding, letting everyone get a glimpse of the endemic Paradise Kingfisher. The insect and plant enthusiasts had a wonderful morning as well as we found several flowering Hoyas, Orchids, and exotic ferns. Insects were out in full swing as the sun came out, with Striped Crickets chirruping, Lime-colored Grasshoppers resting on leaves, White Butterflies swirling, and even Birdwing Butterfly foraging in the canopy. Amongst the ferns of the secondary forest were a pair of mating Stick Insects as well. We were all amazed by the camouflage and many others surprised to see the small male resting on the female’s back.

Once the sun heated up the day however, it was time to move to a more shady spot and we all ventured to the local Orchid Garden. Several new varieties of orchids were blooming here and a surprise free-roaming Dwarf Cassowary walked by our group to inspect us. Many of us were surprised and a bit wary but kept a safe distance from the large bird while admiring its beautiful black feathers and blue head. Others finally got a chance to see the origin of the feathers for some of the local head-dresses which we had seen in previous village visits and were impressed by the size of the local bird.

Another group from the ship got a little sleep in, later followed by a tour of the Japanese Caves of Biak. These caves were the hiding spots of Japanese soldiers during the Second World War, but sadly the soldiers in these caves had a terrible demise. The history and dark events were well documented through a collection of artifacts and a small memorial. The caves were also home to a couple species of bats, including the Bare-necked Bat.

We all came back together on the ship and sailed to a pristine isolated island in the middle of the deep blue, with shear drop-offs on all sides. The reef was teeming with colourful Anthias and juvenile fish galore. A Great Barracuda was out patrolling the edge and Sweetlips were cruising around the drop-off. Patches of Flying Wing Comb Jellies were drifting through the shallows and several Lionfish were spotted resting above the reef. Large massive corals stood tall on the reef with branching corals and a myriad of invertebrates filling all the gaps. Many chose to relax on the white sand beach, while others searched the shoreline for any special treasures.

By the end of the day, pre-dinner drinks was alive with lots of chatter. Many had visited the local markets in the day purchased different Birds-of-paradise (BoP) shirts. The bar was full of some well-dressed folks sporting their new BoP attire, but so far no new lekking site has been established for a display of their dance moves.

Day 11: Thursday 10 October
Liki Island

We had a more restful morning at last to prepare us for another village visit and sailed west. As we were sailing, Jessa shared a lecture on the “Birdwings of Paradise.” She covered a group of large butterflies which we’ve encountered throughout our trip and some of their interesting mating displays and diversity. Later we stopped off at Liki Island where we received another warm welcome. The head of the village greeted us as we stepped on shore and he pressed some of the sand across our forehead to ground us to the new place. Once in the village we all sat under an ancient tree covered with beautiful epiphytic plants. The villagers had made us hats from young coconut leaves and flowers as well, and we were soon all more beautiful versions of ourselves. After the welcome speeches, we enjoyed viewing artwork from a local school and the basketry of the local women. Some Sago Palm and fried fish were available to eat too and many of us enjoyed these new delights.

Once we had all enjoyed some of the village, a large group set off to enjoy more of the wildlife. A large sandy area near the houses was buzzing with large black spider wasps. Each wasp was attempting to excavate a little burrow for itself and there was a lot of competition for prime spots. Many butterflies flitted around and a large Water Monitor crossed our path. We startled it more than it startled us and then we looked to the trees for Spotted Cuscus a bird known from the region. Instead our most interesting finds continued to be surprising insects and arthropods like Metallic Blue Jumping Spiders, Large Black and White Huntsmen, stunning Red Dragonflies and lovely Blue Damselflies. Others dove into the warm water for our last snorkel of the expedition. Drifting out along the edge of the reef we enjoyed many of the species we had learnt about along the journey. Sea Cucumbers, Anemones, Feather Duster Worms, Angelfish, Wrasse and Juvenile Snapper, just to name a few.

As we set sail for Jayapura, Courtney covered some of the “Spineless Species” of aquatic creatures which we encountered in our snorkeling trips, including penis-fencing worms. The Sea Shop on board was then open for everyone to get a little Spirit of Enderby souvenir. Later on in the afternoon we were treated to an important Climate Change Discussion with Tim. The discussion led with much hope for the future and some interesting new technologies for sequestering carbon like seaweed farming. There was a fine display of coconut hats at the pre-dinner bar and Jessa finished off the evening recap explaining the ecology of many of the insects and demonstrating some of their strange movements and shared some fascinating facts on Cassowaries.

Day 12: Friday 11 October
Jayapura and Lake Sentani

On arrival in the big city of Jayapura, we were treated to a police escort through the city traffic. As we wound around the narrow streets, we saw two large lakes, a new bridge, and the new stadium which is preparing for Papua 2020, the national Olympic style games. Soon we arrived at Lake Sentani, where we cruised around in local boats to see the villages built on the water. Smiling faces greeted us from the wooden homes and soon we stopped in Assey Village. This village is located on an island in the middle of the lake and the local villagers were dressed for our celebrated arrival. They shared a dance of their ancestral snake, which brought all the people of Lake Sentani to this region.

After the performance we were allowed to peruse their local artwork, which was predominantly composed of intricate paintings on Paperbark. The red paint was from Betelnut and many depicted their ancestral serpent, fish of the region, and Birds-of-paradise. Everyone enjoyed the handicrafts and some ventured up to the local church to see the memorials and more of how people live on this island in the lake. Cute pigs were along the paths and found near each house, which are treasured by the locals.

Once back aboard we set sail for Vanimo and Papua New Guinea. For the journey we had the opportunity to have two afternoon lectures. The first was by our doctor, Konrad. His talk was entitled, “Pacific Theatre: The Forgotten War” and in it he reviewed some of the history of the region from WWII. Throughout our village visits and in some of our snorkel spots, we’ve come across war relics. From sunken planes to war memorials, pieces of history can be found all around us and Konrad gave a great lecture on the war stories from this region. Later on Dan shared his lecture on “Tits & Boobies and other things you never knew about… Birds!” This was an entertaining lecture on some of the fascinating aspects of birds.

Once the ship arrived in Vanimo later in the evening, passengers piled out on the decks to have a look at the new spot. There was an enormous ship which had been stuck on the coral since the previous year and some other interesting sites. Soon we welcomed the immigration officials onboard and very soon after our passage was cleared. At long last we had completed Heritage Expeditions first voyage through West Papua and Papua, Indonesia!

Day 13: Saturday 12 October
Sepik River

Today started off with some thrilling sightings of Pan-tropical Spotted Dolphins leaping out of the water and swimming along with the ship. We were sailing swiftly to our next destination: the Sepik River. This river is known as the Amazon River of New Guinea and all aboard were excited to see it at last. A few notes of business were attended to before this though and passengers all enjoyed a lecture as we sailed given by Aaron. Our Expedition Leader shared the origins of Heritage Expeditions with his family and covered some of the other amazing exploratory trips that they voyage on.

By the afternoon the warm blue waters shifted to the fresh brown river water and we all knew we were close to our next destination. Small villages and even smaller looking people dotted the shoreline as the Spirit of Enderby sailed into the mouth of the Sepik River for the first time. We loaded up into the Zodiacs and ventured into the narrow tributary of the Sepik River which was home to a forest of Sago Palms. The spikey plants were strategically dodged by our skilled Zodiac drivers and we all enjoyed the Crow and Blue Butterflies flitted through the palms. Soon it was time to see the last highlight of the trip: visiting the Kopar community. Over a hundred villagers greeted us on shore, many in traditional dress and playing spirited music over drums. Once ashore we enjoyed the traditional Dragon Dance with a structure decorated with bird feathers from the region including Cockatoos, Hornbills, and Cassowaries. The men were adorned with local shells and pig tusks as well. Later we viewed the ways they prepared the Sago Palm food and then viewed some of the local Saltwater Crocodiles. Some shark meat from a recent catch was on the grill at one village and we saw some impressive jaws from a previous feast.

Perhaps one of the most impressive aspects of this village were their handicrafts however. People of the Sepik River are well known from their skilled carving displayed in their tools and canoes. Additionally they carve many masks and other totems composed of local wildlife imagery like the impressive Flying Fox. We had a hard time leaving this village, still meeting kind people on our way back to the Zodiacs, but it was a spectacular place to end a thrilling voyage.

Back onboard, we were all still excited from our adventures and flocked to the deck when an erupting volcano was spotted across the water. As we passed it, another even larger erupting volcano was sighted alongside big groups of Noddys and Terns having a feast of fish across the water. Dan soon called us all to the lecture room for a special final recap. Dan compiled all the photos and videos of our experiences from the past two weeks into one great video recap. We all laughed and sighed at the images as we recalled all of our wonderful adventures. Aaron thanked the staff, crew, and passengers for making this inaugural trip such a success and for everyone’s patience through some diplomatic struggles. This was truly an expedition, and everyone was proud of the adventures they had enjoyed.

Day 14: Sunday 13 October
Madang, Papua New Guinea

The ship dropped anchor under the cover of darkness in the Port of Madang, some passengers had to get-up early to depart the Spirit of Enderby at 5am due to a flight schedule change, whilst others left at the more respectable time of 8am. After our last breakfast together, passengers enjoyed a short Zodiac ride across to the Madang Resort beachfront, continuing on to the small airport in Madang.