30 Apr 2016

Traditional Welcome in Tufi

We enjoyed our first landing on mainland Papua New Guinea in the Tufi region this morning. As a very special treat, we were transported by outrigger canoe up a mangrove-lined creek from McClaren Harbour. Intricate root systems jutted out from the river banks and basalt cliffs towered over our heads. Traditionally dressed, our paddlers wore shell necklaces, woven arm bracelets with tuffs of flowers and foliage, flower and feather headdresses, and tapa skirts (hand-made patterned paper from bark). Each outrigger held a large square platform at the centre, so we were pleasantly comfortable for the ride. It was an incredibly peaceful and authentic way to travel upriver whilst listening to the calls of birds and sounds of paddles plying the waters. Shortly after disembarking, our local guide casually informed us that “something” was about to happen…Moments later, we heard rustling, shouting and what sounded like firecracke rs as four men with staffs leapt out from the bush. Running towards us with intimidatingly fierce expressions and black face paint, they were re-enacting how a tribe would have approached strangers on their land. “Friend or foe, friend of foe??!!” he demanded. One of our group replied “friends, and we’ve come in peace.” And, with that, the man shook her hand and allowed us to pass. Further down the trail we encountered a series of cultural activities—essentially a kind of living museum to demonstrate some of the traditions of the Tufi people. We observed a woman receiving facial tattoos and watched two men start a fire in no more than twenty seconds. The third station showed how sago (staple food of their diet) is extracted from the palm trunk, pressed and then filtered. For the finale, about fifteen exquisitely dressed performers sang and danced just a few feet from us. Their costumes were the most colourful and intricately made yet, with rainbow-feathered headdresses, face paint and traditionally-made drums. Our Cruise Director, Helen, was invited to join in on the last dance in celebration of her birthday. Following our cultural immersion, we followed Chris through the jungle in search of more feathered friends and found the palm cockatoo, a threatened bird with a bright red face, in the canopy. En route back to our canoes, a couple dozen artisans displayed their tapas, necklaces, masks and bags for sale.

Our afternoon at sea consisted of a couple excellent onboard lectures (geological overview of PNG by Andrew and mangroves by Martin), ice-cream bars on the bow, our group photo, and relaxation time.