14 Aug 2018

The Sounds of Walrus and Polar Bears

A planned before breakfast zodiac cruise to catch the soft morning light was thwarted by cloud this morning, although the fog which clung to the desolate Herald Island gave us a true feeling as to how isolated and inhospitable the island is.  Our after breakfast zodiac cruise located two incredible caves with haul outs of walrus.  The bellowing sound was amplified by the cave and we sat with engines off to enjoy the sights and sounds of the animals.  Later in the cruise, several walrus came past within close proximity of the zodiacs and we all had great views of this iconic arctic animal.  

Over lunch we relocated to Dragi Bay at Cape Waring and the ice floe became heavier near land.  We opted to put in four zodiacs and cruised the North Cape - caves, snow banks and a view of a Polar Bear entering the water were highlights.  Onboard we settled back in, but not before the best Polar Bear sighting of the expedition – a mother and two cubs. One cub was particularly curious and came towards the ship before being followed by the other two.   With the ship at a stand-still against the ice floe, the bears came right up to Spirit of Enderby,, so close we could hear their breath and many found their camera lenses were far too long!  With stunned silence aboard the ship, we had exceptional views as they smelled the air, looking at us with intense curiosity.  After some time we gently pulled the ship back and the bears followed, nimbly jumping from ice floe to ice floe before we finally parted ways.  It was an interaction like no other and one that will sit with us for a lifetime.