01 Sep 2017

SOE: Experiencing the Aurora Borealis

The first day of Autumn, and a worthy postscript for the last day of summer. Last night after dinner, after this blog had been written, a softly-spoken announcement came over the PA. “Aurora” was all that was said. Soon we began streaming up to the bridge, the flying bridge, the outer decks to enjoy faint green curtains of light dancing across the sky. At times they picked up vibrancy, then disappeared all together. Some people were able to get reasonable photos of Aurora Borealis, despite the rocking of the ship. Everyone who had hoped, even dreamed of seeing an Aurora on this trip went to bed (or returned to bed) satisfied.

But the night was not over. As the ship began turning south into Bering Strait, the wind and swell had us in its grip. At about 3 am we experienced some particularly strong waves that tossed chairs across cabins and made a clean sweep of many a desk. Most everyone had a story at breakfast, which was well attended as we were now in the lee of Chukotka. The morning passed easily, with Chris giving a very wry talk about the edible plants of Chukotka, followed by Vasily’s wondrous photos and video on the wildlife of Wrangel Island.

After lunch we anchored in Pengenkay Fjord, a waterway surrounded by tundra in autumn colours and snow-covered mountains. As we boarded Zodiacs, rain showers began and stayed with us for the first hour or so. We weren’t long out when we encountered four humpback whales feeding in the bay. We moved closer and sat quietly as they began to swim round us, occasionally surfacing very close to share some sonorous bellows from their blow holes. We stayed with the whales for a while, before moving further south into the fjord. The wind had picked up, the temperature dropped and it was feeling decidedly Arctic once again.

We picked up speed, racing along the shoreline searching for brown bears. We’d nearly reached the head of the fjord when Sarah radioed that she thought she could see some reindeer on a distant slope. We immediately aimed for where she indicated and sure enough, what appeared to be hundreds of black and white dots could be seen. Was it possible that we’d somehow lucked out and would be able to watch as reindeer herders brought their animals to the sea for their annual sip? The quick drink replenishes certain minerals in their bodies that they can’t get from the lichens and plants they eat.

As we approached two Chukchi reindeer herders came down to greet us. Their names were Maxim and Vitaly and they were two of five men and five dogs looking after some 1700 reindeer. They invited us to split into two groups one to go up on a rise while they sent the dogs around to herd the reindeer toward the sea, the other to wait down where the reindeer would stream past. After a chilly wait, the reindeer began moving toward the sea. There just seemed to be more and more until the wonder of 1700 animals walking past, clicking antlers and making grunting noises, well, it was overwhelming. Many of the males were in rut, the velvet on their antlers hanging in tatters. Others squared off for some mock fighting. There was so much to see. Soon we followed them back to the beach to see them have their annual drink. Such a privilege to be here on the very day that this happens. There were many happy faces in the Zodiacs as we made it back to the ship. And to show our gratitude to the reindeer herders, Howard and Chris took some supplies back to them while we prepared for dinner. Another very special excursion on a trip that seems to feature them nearly on a daily basis.