28 Jan 2013

Scott's Northern Party

It is 3am and sadly we have turned our backs on Antarctica. The last couple of days we have enjoyed the highs and lows, the pleasures and frustrations that make Antarctica so special, so memorable and oh so addictive.  We arrived at Inexpressible Island in Terra Nova Bay at 0200 hours on Saturday, a place renowned for Katabatic winds, but this morning it was calm. Our Expedition Leader Rodney woke us and after a briefing we went ashore for the most amazing landing. This site is a mecca (must see, must visit) for those interested in Antarctic history for it was here that Scott’s Northern Party wintered over in an igloo (it’s an amazing  story, read the book  “The Wicked Mate”).  We were all back on board for breakfast, during which the weather changed and a dense fog settled over the landscape as the snow fell. An attempt was made later in the morning to land at the German Base in Terra Nova Bay, but was aborted when the scout boat came back and reported that strong winds, driving snow and fog made conditions unsuitable.

Yesterday we steamed up the coast and this morning we have been trying to find a way into Cape Adare, site of the 1899-1900 "Southern Cross Expedition". The hut from this expedition still stands, but heavy pack ice has stopped us 15 miles short of the Cape. We have little option but to turn for home knowing we have done all we can. As I write this, folk are enjoying a beautiful sunrise. It is calm and -2° outside and there are numerous Adelie Penguins on the ice floes. There is very little conversation, as everybody on deck is obviously a little disappointed, but realistic that we travel on natures terms. Nothing is guaranteed and nothing is predictable here, which is part of what makes Antarctica so tantalising. It has been an amazing expedition so far and it is not yet over. We now have to find a way out of the Ross Sea and the ice maps are still showing quite a belt of ice at the entrance to the Ross Sea, before setting a course to Campbell Island.  It is now time to catch up on some sleep.