21 Oct 2018

Meeting the Kwaio People of Malaita

Arriving at Malaita in the predawn light set the stunning scene for day four on our Secrets of Melanesia expedition. After the birders were ferried ashore in search of the Malaita White-eye (which they found in the hills above alongside a number of other species), the rest of us snorkelled in the crystal clear waters of Leli Island. The beautifully protected reef was exceptionally healthy and home to numerous larger fish, as well as some excellent corals.

However, the afternoon will remain with all of us for a very long time as we were the first group to visit the Kwaio people of Malaita. Escorted through the reef by Chief Eseau, we entered into another world, a world that while remarkably connected with our modern one, was also ancient at the same time.

A group of Kwaio people had travelled from the mountains of Malaita, some walking for 2 days to be present as they introduced and shared a little of their life and stories including the revolutionary conservation work which they have begun. Dressed in traditional attire of a simple belt and forest leaves, they were a vision from another time and very gracious hosts. The whole afternoon was a cultural exchange that left us all speechless.

Image (c) A. Russ