HA231226: Unseen Fiordland and Stewart Island: Exploring New Zealand's Remote Backyard

UNSEEN FIORDLAND AND STEWART ISLAND

on board HERITAGE ADVENTURER

26 - 31 December 2023

Day 1
Queenstown
26 December

Our Unseen Fiordland and Stewart Island adventure began in Queenstown, New Zealand's alpine adventure capital as we, travellers from around the globe, made our way to our accommodations for the first night. After settling in, a delicious dinner was enjoyed by all and new friendships formed. We also learned more about what to expect on our upcoming adventure. It was an early night, as we eagerly awaited our departure tomorrow in Bluff.

Day 2
Stewart Island
27 December

After enjoying breakfast in Queenstown, we made the scenic transfer to Oban to explore the wonders of Stewart and Ulva Island.

We sailed towards the tranquillity of Ulva Island for a memorable walk among its rugged wilderness and native bird sanctuary. Trekking through the picturesque Ulva Island revealed a vibrant tapestry of nature's wonders and birdlife as Yellowhead/Mohua, Kākā, Saddleback/Tīeke, Tūī, Kererū, Bellbird/Korimako, Robins, and Grey Warbler graced our path. The afternoon was dedicated to exploring the charms of the Oban township, immersing ourselves in the local atmosphere, uncovering hidden gems and, for some, enjoying a drink with the friendly locals at the iconic South Sea Hotel.

We then boarded our new home away from home, Heritage Adventurer, and nature gifted us a beautiful afternoon with smooth weather, the clear water mirroring the tranquillity of our surroundings. Following our first full-day of adventure, we had the opportunity to mingle with new guests who had remained on board over the first of many delicious dinners.

Day 3
Dusky Sound
28 December

We awoke to a soft Fiordland morning with the Fiords cloaked in rain clouds. As the drizzle slowly set in; we boarded our trusty Zodiacs and set out on an exploration of the coast of Resolution Island. As we cruised our way through Facile Harbour, we learned about many New Zealand firsts, which included the dubious insurance fraud of the Endeavour in 1795, the first beer brewed and the first European woman in New Zealand, and potentially the first child.

We continued around to the striking outcrop of Fiordland gneiss where we rafted our Zodiacs together and Mat gave an overview of geological history of Fiordland. In the outcrop, we could see evidence of past earthquakes meticulously detailed in a series of veins shown in the rock face.

Shortly after we landed at Pigeon Island, Lindsay showed us around Richard Henry's house site and Kiwi pen. We learned about his early trials and tribulations in battling for the conservation of species in the early 1900s on Resolution Island.

Returning to Heritage Adventurer for a sumptuous lunch and to dry off, the afternoon was spent following the footsteps of Captain Cook. We enjoyed a Zodiac cruise around Cascade Cove visiting some of the early sites visited by Cook's Resolution voyage in 1773. Finally, it was up to Astronomer's Point where we learned of early interactions between Māori and Cook's Men, along with visiting the survey peg originally laid by William Wales in undertaking his celestial observations and accurately marking New Zealand on the world map.

After a full day of exploring the natural and cultural history of Dusky Sound the weather had cleared up allowing for a fantastic BBQ dinner as Heritage Adventurer slowly wound her way up Acheron Passage toward Breaksea Sound.

Day 4
Doubtful and Milford Sound
29 December

Our adventure in Fiordland continued in the morning with a Zodiac cruise to predator-free Secretary Island. After landing, we embarked on a walk through the dense wet bush. The trail led us through native Mistletoe in full bloom, accompanied by the constant chatter of Kākā, Fantails, and Bellbirds.

Following our walk, a Zodiac cruise offered a glimpse of the flourishing flora with flowering Rātā and Kamahi dotting the landscape. We delved into the fascinating world of the Crayfish industry, explored a historical Sealers' station, learned about the marine reserve, and visited the area associated with the Spanish Malaspina Expedition.

Back on board Heritage Adventurer, we headed north towards Milford Sound entertained by a fascinating range of lectures as Lindsay enlightened us on Fiordland's conservation efforts, focusing on the protection of Kiwi in Shy Lake and the impact of the 1080 operation in Wet Jacket Arm. It was then a compelling panel discussion on community-led conservation, featuring insights from Aaron Russ, Tamzin, Lindsay, and Blake. Each shared personal stories, revealing their motives, drives, and reasons for actively participating in conservation.

The day culminated as we navigated through the awe-inspiring Milford Sound. The sheer drama of glacial features, gneiss rocks, numerous waterfalls, tree avalanches, and virgin bush unfolded around us. As we enjoyed our dinner, we retraced our path out of Milford Sound, heading south toward Tamatea/Dusky Sound, with the memories of a day filled with nature's wonders and conservation inspiration.

Day 5
Dusky Sound
30 December

We awoke to Heritage Adventurer gently cruising back into Dusky Sound, to yet another beautiful fiord cloaked in mist. As we enjoyed our morning coffee and delicious breakfast, a pod of Bottlenose Dolphins welcomed us back, surfing in our wake as we cruised along Acheron Passage.

Appropriately we set anchor just south of Anchor Island for the day's excursions. Some of us opted for a Zodiac cruise around the Many Islands, exploring all of the nooks and crannies of both the Many Islands and Anchor Island. We were greeted by some seriously cute New Zealand Fur Seal pups, who performed all forms of yoga from nearby rocky platforms.

Some of us opted for a scenic helicopter flight up to Mount Pembroke where we rose above the clouds to enjoy spectacular views of Fiordland and out to the Tasman Sea. While others chose to take a quiet walk through Anchor Island, enjoying the special biobank which included a stronghold of Yellowhead/Mohua and other species on offer. After navigating our way through the sprawling forest, our views soon opened to Lake Kirirua in the heart of Anchor Island.

In the afternoon, our Captain repositioned Heritage Adventurer to Resolution Island, where an afternoon Zodiac cruise had us exploring the coastline of Resolution Island through Duck Cove. A seemingly perfect way to finish this fabulous adventure before we were treated to the Captain's Farewell Cocktails, slide show of our adventures and exquisite farewell banquet which rounded out our journey as we sailed back to Bluff.

Day 6
Bluff
31 December

The final day of our adventure had arrived. It was a bittersweet feeling as we enjoyed one last delicious breakfast, and exchanged contact information with fellow adventurers. Departing in Bluff, we said goodbye to our fabulous Expedition Team and everyone on board Heritage Adventurer who made this journey so incredible, bound for new adventures.